Clippings by eldiba

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RE: Dated? Really? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: palimpsest on 03.19.2013 at 02:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just to confuse, robo, brass hardware is On trend at the top of the market, and dark green in the cooler direction (hunter and emerald) is starting to show up décor, so a kitchen finish can't be far behind.

In your housing demographic brushed nickel and the bronze finishes may still be considered "new", a lot depends on location and price point.

I think "modest and non-historic" would be a good starting point for a new kitchen if that is what your house is: don't make it look too much like an old fashioned kitchen that would belong in a different house, don't make it too fancy for the house...those are two current errors, I think.

I would suggest that, if you want to do granite, don't do the same granites that are being pushed by the big box stores or that you see in the magazines. Pick something you Aren't seeing a lot of that you also like and can afford. Same with laminate: don't use the same pattern as the readily available post formed versions, you should be able to get something else you like. Hardware is easily changed if you stick to knobs or pulls with a common on-center size: 3", 3-1/2", 4". If you do extra long pulls, you may be stuck with your 9" bar pulls when you aren't so fond of them any more.

I am actually UNtrending a kitchen right now, for a client who is not particularly aware of the trends, she just knows she doesn't like some things about it all that much. This builder's house had her area's upgrades: a black-based granite, brushed nickel pulls and lighting, pendants over the peninsula. It has the 4" granite backsplash because the full backsplash is still a rarity in her locale.

The brushed nickel lighting and fan are all coming down and the pendants will not be replaced with different pendants, we are installing small close-to-ceiling fixtures. The hardware was changed to black, the trendy paint color has been repainted in one of the maligned "bandaid" colors. The windows are being covered with tiered curtains. We are doing what she likes because she doesn't know what the trends Are, but there will probably end up being something in there that is 2013-14 trendy by accident, and it will show up later.


clipped on: 03.19.2013 at 07:39 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2013 at 07:39 pm

RE: Advice on building custom hood, and hood insert recommendatio (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: trevorlawson on 06.10.2011 at 09:43 am in Appliances Forum

1) Make sure your carpenter makes the wood surround / hood bigger than the sizes of the insert. so if your insert is 34" x 22" make the hood 36" x 24" ish if possible or even bigger.

2) Recess the insert 6" up into the cabinetry to create a larger capture area. Think of this as an upside down sink, the insert is the plug hole and the bowl is the wooden frame. The bigger the frame the more smoke and grease will end up going out of the house.

3) Insulate the gap between the wood and the insert.

4) If possible make 2 x 45 degree turns above the hood instead of 1 x 90 degree turn, this will reduce noise and friction.


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:45 pm

RE: Which OTR Microwave do you hate the least? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jscout on 02.12.2012 at 08:15 am in Appliances Forum

flynnnj, take a look at for an idea of retail prices. It's not gospel, but it is a realistic ballpark for reference. I used a local dealer and even they used it to compare prices.

I use mine a few times a week, since it serves as my MW, toaster oven, third oven, and warming drawer. So in my case it was worth the expense. The functional compromise has been better than expected. It's definitely worth considering in a small kitchen.

The most common use of the speedcook feature for me is for frozen stuff. The best example I can give is a whole batch of frozen chicken nuggets in less than five minutes. I've done fish a few times with surprisingly good results. I also like to toast sandwiches in it. I've been meaning to try roasting chicken in it. It took me over an hour conventionally last week and that doesn't include preheat and rest time. So maybe I'll try the speed oven
this week where preheating isn't necessary.

I also found the warming feature very useful. Its sensors seem to do a good job with both dry warming and moist warming.

The only thing it doesn't do well is making toast (sliced bread). But it's fine toasting bagels and English muffins. I did figure out that if I preheated it, I could make acceptable toast. Fortunately, we don't really eat toast that much, so it's not an issue.


advantium MW
clipped on: 02.24.2013 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2013 at 03:57 pm

RE: Reveal on sink - Sorry to bug all one more time! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dseng on 04.06.2012 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

The biggest problem for us about a negative reveal (and it's more of a problem simply related to carelessness) is my propensity to accidentally catch the edge of the countertop with a plate, bowl, or glass. Couple that with the fact that it's usually our good stuff that gets handwashed and the next sink will not have a negative reveal.


clipped on: 02.24.2013 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2013 at 01:19 pm

RE: What brand Fluorescent Undercab light did you use? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dmlove on 03.06.2007 at 12:15 pm in Lighting Forum

We used Juno - got it at Galaxy in Cupertino. We mounted it in the front. We had been forewarned (by catluvr I think) that if we mounted it in the back, we'd see the fixture. It was true - when seated on the couches in the family room the fixture was visible when mounted at the back, but not so when mounted against in the front against the light rail. The light is good, and it reflects against the backsplash, lighting up the decorative glass tiles. We like it.


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 09:28 pm

RE: How many shelves in your 36 inch cabinets? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 12.29.2009 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I also ordered an extra shelf for each 36" tall cabinet...and now I'm able to have various heights for storage.


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 11:29 am

RE: Does anyone have a pot rack inside an upper cabinet? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.30.2011 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

How funny!! I am hardly ever on the kitchen forum anymore so not sure what made me pop over and look what I find...

Ayr did make our cabinets. They were beyond wonderful to work with, will ship all over the country and I can only praise them to heaven and back for their work ethic, ability to do anything we wanted and to always do it with a smile. I am sure I was a difficult customer but they never let on once :)

I did purchase the bar and hooks from The Container Store, but they no longer carry them. They can still be found online and there is a link in the thread that was linked to above.

Because our kitchen was custom and that cabinet is above a 30" deep counter, the uppers are 13" deep. We can easily get a 12" frypan in that cupboard. DH built me a rack for holding the lids which is underneath the smaller pans.

The can storage was my idea. The drawer actually consists of three layers. It is quite deep as the first main drawer extends into the toe kick area of the cabinet. The drawers line up all round the kitchen so using hidden drawers was a way to reduce the depth of some of them.

Here are some more pictures:


Can Storage


clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 07:58 pm

RE: anyone out there happy with 24' sink cabinet? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: talley_sue_nyc on 02.12.2008 at 04:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Big factor: Are you going frameless? If you have framed cabinets, the loss of access on that skinny cabinet (and on the sink cabinet) may be very frustrating.

I have a 27" skin cabinet, and I'm very happy w/ it.

My sink itself is 23" wide, and I will say that if it were a teeny bit narrower, I wouldn't really mind (though probably the elbow room is nice). Maybe that extra space is nice for when I want to have a dishpan in there. Maybe try out a 19" sink w/ a dishpan? (use a cardboard box or something to mock it up?)

Where I wish I had more sink space is front-to-back--mine is 15", and I wish it were a teeny bit more.

As for the faucet: get one shaped like a upside-down L, NOT like an upside-down U. That will give you more clearance, and make up for any loss of maneuverability side-to-side.

I have a 9" cabinet (frameless) that I love, bcs it gives me a place to store the cast-iron griddle, the grill pan, the broiler pan, and the huge cookie sheet for heating Tater Tots. Even the drawer is one of my favorite things, but that's bcs this is right by the stove, and I keep all the cooking spatulas & tongs in there instead of in a crock.

I think under-sink storage is not always useful. That said, I can get a two-can trash pullout and one of these under there--w/ a 24" cabinet, you might not be able to. You can get someone to make you something custom, of course.

I guess it comes down to "what matters to you?" or "what will solve the bigger problem--more sink storage, or more side-cabinet storage?"


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 11:26 pm

RE: Size of pot drawers and lid storage (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: lemonade on 10.17.2007 at 02:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Drop the sides on your pot drawers, and you will have more useable space because the handles can hang over the edge. They are also easier to maneuver in and out of the drawer with the sides dropped. I just nest the lids into the tops of the pans.
Or: if you can't drop the sides, seriously consider pullout shelves.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucketwidth="600"height="400">


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 11:26 pm

RE: What to do with the Dish Towel?!?! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: petra_il on 03.14.2008 at 10:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I bought a small tension rod (yes, the one for curtains), put it inside the underneath of cabinet next to the sink, kind of like where undercabinet lighting is; it sits against the cabinet sides. I may snatch a picture if anyone is interested. No drilling involved, it's not a permanent fixture, it was pure inspiration! :))


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 11:22 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 11:22 pm

Woo Hoo, FINISHED! (*wipes beaded brow!* )

posted by: tiskers on 04.03.2009 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, I haven't been around much lately because we've been very busy... getting the KITCHEN ***DONE***! YAY!

Our remodel is now 100% complete, and I am so excited to share it with you all.

Thank you ALL for your advice, expertise and support throughout this project. I appreciate it more than I can express! I am SO HAPPY to have found you guys!

From start to finish it took about 3 months. Not too bad considering it was a 95% DIY project (and we both have day jobs!)

The project entailed removing a major load bearing wall between our kitchen and dining room to open up the area. The wall was also full of DUCT WORK (all the heating and a/c to the 2nd floor!) as well as a lot of electric. DH did ALL the demolition, the construction, the electric, the plumbing, the heating, the lighting and the appliance installation. We did everything ourselves except the hanging of the cabinets and the laying of the new floor.

Kitchen design by The Kitchen Village, Corry & Erie, PA.
The cabinets are by Showplace Wood Products; "Breckenridge" door style, in maple; "Antique Soft Cream with Ivory Glaze" finish.
Granite is Santa Cecelia Light, slabs hand-picked at Mont Granite in Solon, OH.
Blanco 1 3/4 bowl silgranit sink in color "Biscuit".
Delta Saxony faucet in SS finish.
GE slide-in gas range, model #PGS908SEM.
GE microwave, model #PEB20605SM1SS (built in w/ trim kit).
KitchenAid french door fridge, model #KBFS20ETSS01.
KitchenAid D/W, model #KUDC03FVSS0.
(We reused our KitchenAid disposer, it was new.)
Low-voltage xenon under-cabinet lighting by American Lighting.
All lighting fixtures by Murray Feiss, from the "Alexandria" collection.
Flooring is a Tarkett Fiber Floor (one piece vinyl) - color/style: Arizona Saltio, Taupe #38062.

Total spent was about $35K, broken down approx. as follows: $16K for cabinets and installation; $7K for granite; $6K for appliances; $1K flooring; $1.5K for lighting; $3.5K construction/finishing supplies/misc., etc.

My vision for this kitchen remodel was to complement our 1600 SF Cape Cod home, (built in the 50's), by creating a space that was beautiful, functional, easy to maintain, and (most of all) fun to cook in. I am so happy to say that we achieved our goals! This kitchen is a delight.

Soooo, without further ado -- what I know you are really interested in ;o) -- THE PICTURES! Enjoy!



In this next picture you'll see the wall (behind the stove) that had to go! The dining room is on the other side.



(This next picture isn't 100% accurate; it doesn't show the 9" tray/cookie sheet cabinet between the sink and the D/W. We decided on that later, and the plans weren't redone.)

A FEW "In Progress"... just for fun! (Ahhhh, the memories...!) ;o)











I'm not sure how many photos one post can hold, so I will continue in another post. Stay tuned!


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 11:10 pm

RE: Any corner sinks? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: muspic on 02.22.2010 at 08:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am still in the process or the reno but have gone with a sink in the corner.
Instead of a special "corner sink" I have cut off the corner so where I stand it is straight so the sink is just a normal single bowl.( I have also chosen kindred and everything I hear about these granite sinks is very positive. Kindred and blanco are both good ones. I have a friend who has a blanco black one that is 10 years ols and still looks great.)

i have space considerations so have a 23" bowl but if I has a bigger kitchen I may have gone bigger

i cannot show you the installed sink as i am still waiting n the granite but I can show you a picture of the corner
(there is no cutout yet either - this will happen when the granite comes

From doors are on


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 10:58 pm

RE: Do your kitchen cabinets go all the way to the ceiling? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: joann23456 on 02.11.2010 at 07:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm one of the people with the soffits made to look like cabinets. (I used Ikea cabinets with custom doors, and couldn't make the numbers work out to get real cabinets up there. Plus, my budget was tight, and cabinets would have added extra cost.)

Our ceilings are 9' tall. The functional cabinets go up 39", the soffit "cabinets" are 12" tall, and the molding is 2-3".

Here's a picture I took tonight.


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:39 pm

RE: kitchen cabinets for 9 foot ceilings (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: la_koala on 10.23.2011 at 10:46 am in Remodeling Forum

In my initial kitchen dreams, I had stacked cabinets for my 9 foot ceiling. Then, after talking with one of the designers at Crownpoint, they advised Casey's idea (one cabinet box, two doors to make it look like stacked, with glass in the top door). They advised that to save on the cost of the materials--because if you have real stacked cabinets, you've got two full "boxes", and a double width at the bottom of the upper cabinet (its bottom panel and the top panel of the one it is above).

Then, I ended up not going with Crownpoint, and with a local KD. My KD recommended not doing the cabinets to the ceiling because of doug_gb's point about not really using them without a ladder, and because she didn't think 12" above was a usable height for storage. I dislike soffits, so the final design ended up to have 39 inch upper cabinets, an open space above, with rope lights to cast a glow on the ceiling. My husband loved that idea, so it was easy for me to say sure, and not have to argue with the KD about the tall cabinets. (My DH has been so good about giving in on other things I wanted, that I'm trying to pick my battles. :-)

My cabinets aren't in yet, so I can't see if I'm going to miss my original dream of the stacked cabinet look. I still love it in pictures though. My advice is if you love the look, go with Casey's idea. If you don't, consider putting rope lights above for the glow.


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:18 pm

RE: 9 ft ceilings and cabinets - show me! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: linelle on 12.01.2011 at 03:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Also 9-ft. ceilings and 42-inch upper cabs, with a space at the top (no soffit). It doesn't bother me, and taller cabs might overpower my small kitchen.

As for the space at the top getting funky. I run paper towels over the top of the cabs. It's not visible and every now and then I replace them. Any yuck just gets thrown away.


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:02 pm

RE: Talk to me about corner sinks - are they ever OK? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jakuvall on 02.12.2013 at 08:01 am in Kitchens Forum

They can solve counter issues- I always do recessed corner bases instead of just a straight angled one. Gives better clearance to adjacent cabinets, makes access to wall cabinet and behind sink much easier.
Pics below- drawing, both the photos show a large single sink (undermounts in laminate) the dark one is a 39" base, the QS oak is a 42" base in progress in the showroom.


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 08:40 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 08:40 pm

RE: Corner Cabinets/Dead Corners - What Did U Do? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: athomeinva on 06.27.2012 at 03:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Maybe I have what your cabinet maker is thinking of? Is this what you mean by two doors opening into themselves:




clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 10:51 pm

RE: Photos of range at the end of a cabinet run (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: cluelessincolorado on 10.14.2011 at 12:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Just wanted to show you this kitchen which I've always liked for the use of space. I think that if you could have the frig where the stove is currently, you'd have more usable kitchen. I have 42" of space that I thought I'd use all the time, but because it's not adjacent to the stove or sink, I don't. It does however make a great place for the electric kettle, toaster, and mixer. I could see using Rhome's #2 with a pullout pantry next to fridge.

Here is a link that might be useful: jenwrens kitchen


clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 11:54 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 11:55 pm

RE: Photos of range at the end of a cabinet run (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: lisa_a on 10.13.2011 at 03:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hopefully your cabinet maker will have good news for you. I am especially curious how he'll make accessing the blind corner cabinet work for you. I would think you'd have a pretty large spacer between that cab's opening and range cabs but I've never dealt with a situation like you have so I really don't know for sure. Pity you can't access that corner storage from the hallway.

If you find that moving the range to that wall won't work and you're back to having it on the window wall, maybe a flip-up counter like this:


will help your situation. It's temporary, of course, and it doesn't address storage issues but it does provide additional counter when needed. You could even scoot the range farther from the wall, putting it off center so that you can maximize storage - 12" cab goes to 18" while the 12" cab on the other side becomes a 6" spice/oil pull-out - and put the flip-up counter to use only when you are at the range. I saw this flip-up counter at the Kohler Design Center in Kohler, WI this summer. Very cool place, lots of great ideas.

Maybe you could even do something like this with the range placed where you're considering it. You won't be able to have it as wide - not without seriously impinging on your aisle to the butler's pantry - but even an extra 8"-10" might come in handy.


clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 11:51 pm

RE: Sink in a corner? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: igloochic on 08.25.2008 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

I have stainless counters, and had them made with runnels to the sink from the right hand side where we drain dishes. My sink is also set in 3" so you are not trapped or unable to open the dishwasher when it's right next to you. If I'd done this in granite, I'd have also had the runnels made (it's actually easier in stone than in stainless).

The only reason a corner sink would be set back further would be if you purchased a sink too large for your cabinet. Mine is 3" back, standard for a sink.



clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 11:05 pm

Pull Out Broom Closet

posted by: jeri on 04.01.2010 at 03:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are thinking about doing the Pull Out Broom Closet pictured below.

Our new home is large (3300 sq ft), but there is very little closet space. We widened our laundry room so that we could have 16 inch deep shelves running along one wall about 10 feet long, 9 feet high. Part of this wall will be cubbies for the 4 family members. The rest will be pantry.

We do not have a broom closet. Part of me does not want to give up space inside for a broom, mob, dust pan, etc. The only thing I would want handy is the vacuum wand for the Hide-a-hose (HaH) we will be installing. My husband suggested we allow room for a 6" wide (total inside width) broom closet. This would only be 16 inches deep. Do you think that would be wise? Or should we do the pullout below? We could put the pullout on the other side where the washing machines and sink would be. We wanted as much counter space as possible on that side, but I think would could give up 7.5 inches for a pullout like this if it would be functional.

I would not use a broom once the HaH is installed, and I dont mop more than once a week this is why Im loath to give up too much space for these items.

What do you think?


clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 09:57 pm