Clippings by eden_in_me

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RE: Cold Alfalfa tea (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseman on 04.16.2009 at 11:19 am in Roses Forum

Normally, Alfalfa Tea is put down as a summer to late summer pick-me-up, but not in the spring. Once the leaves on the roses get to the size of the first joint on your piny finger, you should begin fertilizing once a month with a good, well-balanced fertilizer, but not weed and feed. Roses are heavy feeders, so anything extra you can give like tea or Alaska Fish Emulsion is fine. However, tea of itself does not contain the requisite nutrients a rose needs to do well by itself. I would never think of feeding tea now, because it's not enough to get them off to a good start.

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clipped on: 04.16.2009 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2009 at 11:30 pm

RE: Arbor Collapsed (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jerijen on 04.15.2009 at 12:59 pm in Roses Forum

Whatever rose you get, and whatever structure you settle on, DO NOT WEAVE CANES THROUGH THE STRUCTURE!!

Roses, almost always, will outlast arbors.
TIE the canes to the OUTSIDE of the structure.

We have some roses that have gone through at least two arbors, over the years. Once the rose is mature, it will usually hold the arbor up, until you're ready for a replacement. You'll be able to remove the old, and slide in the new.

It's not at all traumatic -- unless you've done that weaving thing.

Jeri

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clipped on: 04.16.2009 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2009 at 11:20 pm

RE: Leaving my garden tomorrow advise needed (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 08.16.2007 at 01:06 pm in Clematis Forum

If your growing zones are like the US zones 7 or 8, I would definitely prune it now before you left if someone is going to be there to take care of it (ie keep it watered and fertilized). Pruning now will cause more growth and more blooms. I have cut stuff back here, both type IIs and IIIs as late as late August and gotten blooms before the first frosts. If noone is going to be there to take care of the plant, I would not prune now and prune it either at Xmas, depending on what the weather conditions are like then, or wait until March.

Wisely is supposedly either a type II or III clematis according to info I got from the Evixon person I emailed to when I first got all 4 of the RHS named varieties. At that time there was no pruning info out there about them, so I contacted the Evison website (someone gave me the web address and I can't remember whom now). I was told Harlow Carr and Rosemoor were definitely type IIIs, Wisley could be treated as either II or III and Hyde Hall was a type II. I however have always treated Wisely as a type III in my garden and I see that COTW has it listed as a type III also.

I agree with the pruning advice chills gave about where to prune it to. If you cut below any visible buds and you haven't planted the plant with dormant nodes below the soil level, the plant may be stressed. The stress could either force new shoots from the crown or it could kill the plant. I wouldn't chance it if it were me!

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clipped on: 08.16.2007 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2007 at 05:18 pm

RE: Yellowing SAC (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 06.05.2007 at 09:12 am in Clematis Forum

If it is a magnesium deficiency, try epsom salts. I have used it to green up the leaves on brugmansias before. You can find it really cheap at most drugstores versus purchasing it at a garden center. Start out using 2 or 3 tablespoons per half gallon and water the plant with this. Repeat again after 4 or 5 days. It works wonders on my brugs and I typically just dump it into their pots and it gets watered in as I water the plants.

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clipped on: 06.05.2007 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2007 at 06:42 pm

RE: I finally got an obelisk! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: kirkus on 05.30.2007 at 11:46 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Cait was right! I love it! I want to copy your idea!!!! I love it as I love all of your creations! Remember, you said I could come visit!!!! Just a short drive from Washington! Hee hee! VERY, very nice! Below is my attempt at an obelisk for my wife. Your husband is a talented guy! Thanks for sharing! Gotta go. Gotta start packing my bags for Ohio! LOL Kirk


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got to make this
clipped on: 06.03.2007 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 06.03.2007 at 11:35 am

RE: Planting Clematis (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 04.28.2007 at 03:52 am in Clematis Forum

Pinching out the growing tips is a process where once the clematis begins growing you pinch out the main stems to allow basal side shoots to develop. Following are picture which illustrate this.

Here is a clematis plant emerging from the ground.

Here is the clematis with me pinching out a growing tip thereby leaving two side shoots to develop into main branches.

Here is the plant with two stems pinched out.

Once the main stems are pinched out, I will allow the side stems to grow and develop two or three sets of leaves and then pinch out the main stem again. Each time you do this, it results in the plant developing two more stems. This also tends to encourage more stem development from the soil line.

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clipped on: 05.01.2007 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2007 at 03:17 pm

RE: Where should I keep my clematis cuttings (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: hanninkj on 12.15.2006 at 02:40 pm in Clematis Forum

I have still some cuttings such as ranunculoides and phlebantha. I store them at 23 degrees Celsius in front of a window. They start with rooting. For cuttings you need heat and light but you can try it also without these most important things but then the cuttings must be rather dry during winter. Do not use plastic bags during winter!

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clipped on: 12.17.2006 at 12:47 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2006 at 12:48 pm

RE: Overwintering Clematis in Containers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michael_in_chicago on 12.14.2006 at 08:53 pm in Clematis Forum

The temperature is more important than light. You want to keep the plant as cool/cold as possible in your basement, 32-50F would be ideal. You don't want to overwater, but give it a bit of water once every 3 or so weeks. Light isn't necessary if it's truly dormant. Then in the early spring, cut it back and get it outside, gradually exposing it to light.

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clipped on: 12.17.2006 at 12:41 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2006 at 12:42 pm

RE: Colecting Clematis Seeds (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: suzymac on 08.06.2005 at 11:58 am in Clematis Forum

"Ripe' seeds must be dark brown and will fall away easily from the pod. They are the 'big and fat' dark seeds and some will have feather like tails on them. If you collect seeds too soon they will not germinate.
Here are a few pictures of some 'ripe' seedheads which are ready to be collected. Notice that the seeds have turned completely brown. Wait until they look dry and fall easily off the pod:
Here's a group 2, large flowered hybrid seedhead with feathery tails. The seed is turning dark and is ready to collect:

and here is a Viticella type seed head almost ready to collect. I will let it dry a bit more before collecting:

and here is some still green, 'un-ripe' seed forming:

Suzy
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clipped on: 11.09.2006 at 01:08 am    last updated on: 11.09.2006 at 01:09 am

RE: Newbie Clematis (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jeanne_texas on 08.31.2006 at 08:18 am in Clematis Forum

Babywatson..In my experience in the deep south...Clematis fair better with 6-8 hours morning sun..especially those varieties that get what you call "ugly legs" ..that is the one you said has the brown leaves..If you could post a pic ..we could try and id it for you...Pruning is done in late winter/early spring..the same time you prune your Roses in Spring, or when the Forsynthias are in bloom in your zone (For me that is Valentine's Day)...I would most probably "Hard Prune" your two clematis at that time...even if they are pruning group 2's it wouldn't hurt.... but would help your clematis to grow a stronger root system..if you want..you could move the one that has the brown leaves to a place similar to the other one...I have some that have alot of sun and get the brown legs but have plants with shallow roots in front of them to hide that...don't forget to fertilize them with either Rose Fertilizer (that has a High Middle number in the N-P-K Ratio) or Tomato Fertilizer when you prune them this coming late winter/early spring....and keep the roots moist..they love that...and I also top dress my clematis with some Composted Cowmanure too....Hope this helps...Jeanne

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Pruning is done in late winter/early spring when the Forsynthias are in bloom in your zone
clipped on: 08.31.2006 at 07:26 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2006 at 07:29 pm

Overwinter vine?

posted by: plantcompost on 08.27.2006 at 01:13 pm in Clematis Forum

We grow several species and cultivars of clematis. In our climate, however, we have many (viticellas, etc.) that die back to below ground level. Some of the viticellas don't actually bloom until mid July. We have lots of color throughout most of the growing season but would like to extend the season of some of the viticellas. Perhaps have a Polish Spirit start a month early and then have one beside it take over for the late season.
Curious. Has anyone in a colder climate ever taken down the vine and buried it shallow in the ground and mulched? I'm wondering if this might preserve some live wood and result in blooms sooner next year. We do this succesfully with our grape vines each year but have never tried with clematis.

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clipped on: 08.29.2006 at 07:28 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2006 at 07:32 pm

Star of India

posted by: llbean on 06.08.2006 at 01:53 am in Clematis Forum

I am pretty happy, this plant is new this year, I got a bargin on her but she is pretty thin.. Hoefully next year she will be stronger, with a lot of love.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Star of India in the morning

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Just about to open

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clipped on: 08.18.2006 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2006 at 10:45 pm

RE: Where have all the mail order co. gone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jeanne_texas on 06.28.2006 at 09:27 am in Clematis Forum

Scootini..most stop shipping because it's too hot for the clematis and they don't want them to die and have to replace them...you can try some of these nurseries:
http://www.fairweathergardens.com/pages/vines.php
http://www.collectorsnursery.com/html/perennials_a-c.html
http://www.bussegardens.com/onlinecat.cfm
http://www.fieldstonegardens.com/index.cfm?page=secure
http://www.greergardens.com/clematis.htm
http://www.songsparrow.com/2006new/plantlist.cfm?type=Clematis&startrow=1&pageType=plantlist




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clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 09:02 pm

RE: I Discovered the SECRET (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jeanne_texas on 06.23.2006 at 10:58 am in Clematis Forum

NO..don't slice into the stem..it's just a blunt cut with my pruners....Dmg...what I did was prune back my type 3s to get them ready for their second bloom period!!..The vines were about 4 feet long..I cut away and took the middle section of this..what I did was pruned just at about 2 inches below a leaf axil...and left the cutting about a foot long..I then pruned a couple inches above a leaf axil..I pulled off all the lower leaves..so that none would be in the water...Jeanne

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clipped on: 08.14.2006 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2006 at 11:01 pm