Clean cabinets,walls,and ceilings without built on grease is not required either.

Neither is having your blower on at full blast.

A 1000 cfm blower is going to run much quieter at 200 cfm than a 200 cfm blower running at 200 cfm.

When you have your grill going,a burner for a side and yet another for some sauce it would be nice to have that extra power.

A grill is different than a burner. I would get at least 800 cfm.

Below is a Kobe RA0242SQB which is very well thought in the appliance forum. At 450 cfm it is 2.5 sones,which is very quiet. Maximum is 1100 cmf. Very good capture area at 42" x 24". Hood,blower,duct cover,and shipping equals $1418.

Here is a link that might be useful: LINK

Here are some pics and a few details:
Island:

Overview:

Refrigerator and pantry:

Message center:

Breakfast nook:

Our KD wanted an extremely large window area to bring in light, but made it fit into the old house by breaking it up and using leaded glass:

Sink w/glass filler, runnels, & built-in compost bin:

Built-in compost bin close-up:

Mug shelf:

Charging drawer. This entire cabinet is deeper than it appears because it is built into the interior wall behind it, gaining an extra 4" or so of storage space without creeping into the walkway in front of it:

Island cabinets:

Miele ovens installed as flush inset (I searched and never did find pictures of this, so hopefully these will help somebody else):

Cleaning closet in "invented space" from interior wall:

Extra depth for the vacuum was made by reducing the depth of the drawers under the pantry:

The placement of the outlet underneath the music player shelf allows the nasty cordness to be hidden from eye-level:

Toe-kick heater vent. The toe-kick face under the message center & island is covered with stained oak flooring. From eye-level, the toe-kick absorbs the correct amount of light and gives the appearance of freestanding cabinets.

The freestanding appearance is clearer here:

Drawers under nook seating area:

There is a powder room off the kitchen. This wasn't our first choice, but ended up being our only choice in this old house, and has been okay, especially considering its placement is directly next to the hallway and away from the primary cooking area:

Adjacent mudroom, which became part of the kitchen remodel. The door is to a laundry chute which we use mostly for kitchen towels & napkins.

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

• Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)
• Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you...do you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?
   • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

     E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

     Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

   • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.
2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.
   • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

   • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.

HTH!

The DCS shelf is made of slats, allowing lots of air flow and is divided in two, with each half shelf removable and able to be put into the dishwasher. Here's a closeup of one of the removable shelves:

I seriously will throw a party when I find that darned label maker! Oh the things I want to tag in my newly remodeled house....

I should take a new pic now that I've added my paprikas in the drawer. I'll link to the company, Specialty Bottle, below. Badgergirl and I both used the smaller TCT4 tins and the larger TCT8.

Love yours!! Your more petite drawer actually snuggles the tins better than mine. And wait until you're in the middle of a trenches cooking a big meal. You'll get a thrill from being able to see all your spices laid out where grabbing and measuring takes a mere second. You'll wonder how you ever got by reaching into a dark upper cab with toppling towers of spices.

And thanks for the kind shout-out. I can't believe I actually helped someone! You brightened the end of a sad day full of good-byes and made me smile. :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty Bottle spice tins with clear lids

Thanks!