Clippings by dragonfly717

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Jumping into the abyss ... part 1 (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tapla on 04.24.2013 at 04:34 pm in Container Gardening Forum

One feature I value about the gritty mix is, you can adjust the water retention w/o introducing small particles that ensure a perched water table. In order to get everything you can from the gritty mix, it needs to be screened to eliminate a PWT. If you want more water retention, simply increase the amount of Turface and decrease the amount of granite commensurately, or add an equal fraction of screened calcined DE to the mix:
1 bark
1 Turface
1 calcined DE
1 grit

You CAN do whatever you wish, but my goal was to choose particles as small as possible w/o them being so small that a PWT was created. Anything larger is simply overkill and of little benefit. I like the bark a little larger than the inorganic fractions because the added size provides a buffer against size change as (unlike the inorganic fractions) the particles of bark break down.



clipped on: 04.30.2013 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2013 at 10:55 pm

RE: Finished! Pictures & Details in the Gallery (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: golddust on 11.01.2008 at 10:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Beautiful! We're right in the middle of constructing a bathroom upstairs in our 1912 era home. Is that a Porcher sink? We plan to use the large Porcher Sonnet sink. We're doing honed marble subway tiles, just like we did in our kitchen. Same kind of look, without the shine. Thanks for sharing!


clipped on: 11.08.2008 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 11.08.2008 at 09:45 am

RE: shower nice - Am I missing something? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 04.27.2008 at 12:31 am in Bathrooms Forum

These are not exactly what you're looking for...because this wall was skinned with 3/4" CDX. But for the niche construction itself, the theory is sort of the same:

ABOVE: You can see where two studs were cut out for the wall to make room for the niche. This niche is about 36" wide. the wall is non load bearing, so a 2x4 on the flat was installed as the niche bottom, the middle shelf, and the niche top.

Above: The whole thing is skinned in cement board or fibercement. In this shower, the walls are cement board. thin strips of cement board are fragile, so I'll sometimes use strips of fiber cement instead to line the shelves.

ABOVE: This shows the niche shelves are pitched slightly for drainage.

Now if you were going to tile on the cement board, you need to coat the niche with a topical waterproof membrane. A commonly used on is RedGard, it's sold at Home Depot. Coat the niche well, and coat the walls surrounding the niche out about 8"-10" around the face of the niche.

Then tile.

In my case I did a Kerdi shower, so I didn't have poly between the cement board and the framing. You would.

Kerdied niche:

Tiled niche:

If it's an exterior wall, realize that in a cold climate you're eliminating insulation in that wall so your niche will be cold in winter.



clipped on: 10.26.2008 at 05:40 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2008 at 05:40 pm

bathroom tile FAQ's

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.01.2008 at 09:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is going to take me a while, so I'll post as many as I can each night until it gets done. To start, here's the first set of questions and answers:

Okay, here we go. These questions come from the thread on the discussions side where I solicited questions from everyone for this thread. These are in the order they were asked:

Q) What are the different types of tiles you can use in a bathroom and what are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

A) There are several types of tile available. They fall into two general groups: ceramic and natural stone. I'll take these one at a time:

Ceramic tile-- For purposes of this discussion, there's glazed conventional, unglazed porcelain, and glazed porcelain. All three are good tiles for bathroom use, but the porcelain is a better choice only because of its density and lack of water absorbsion, which makes upkeep and cleaning easier. Also, with reference to steam showers, you DO NOT want to use natural stone, being that the steam would tend to permeate into the stone even more readily than liquid water, and could end up giving you algae problems, as well as mold and mildew problems, unless you don't mind being tied down to your bathroom.

Natural Stone-- There are several types of stone that are used in bathrooms. It doesn't necessarily mean that they're all GOOD IDEAS for bathrooms, expecially the softer (and more absorbant) stones, such as slate or limestone. Now, I know I'm going to get a world of flack about this from epople who have bathrooms finished in these materials. I know they CAN be used.... so long as you're aware of the extra upkeep involved. But if you're someone who doesn't like to keep after things, you may want to pick an easier material to maintain. Generally speaking, the softer the stone, the more the upkeep. Limestone being the softer of the stones, and that would include travertine, next would be many slates (although some would actually be harder than even most marbles, such as brazilian and british slates), then marbles, with quartzite and granite rounding off the list as the harder and more dense stones that you could use.

Q) What should I be sure to look for when choosing tile for a bathroom?

A) Short answer-- something that you like! The bathroom is the one place that just about anything the showroom has can be used. The only limitations are basically the upkeep you want to put in, and slip resistance on the floors of your bathroom and shower. Now, although ceramic tile is basically maintenence free, you don't want to use something with a texture to it that will catch all kinds of junk in the shower, making it more difficult to keep clean. At the same time, you don't want to use a polished stone or bright glazed ceramic tile for the shower floor, either. These both CAN be used, but again, it comes down to upkeep for textured wall tile, and doing something to rectify the slippery floor.

Q) Where should I use tile and where not?

A) Tile can be used on every single surface in the bathroom, if that's what you like. This is all a matter of taste... for the most part. About the only place where there's a requirement is any place there's a showerhead involved. If tile is to be used either in a shower or a tub/ shower combo, The tile MUST go up to a minimum of 72" off the floor. Past that, it's up to the disgression of the owner.

Q) What size tile and what layout patterns to use in various areas?

A) Again, this is a subjective question that can really only be answered by the owner. The ONLY place where there's a recommendation for mechaincal reasons is on a shower floor. TCNA recommends that mothing bigger than 6" be used on shower floors due to the cone shape of the floor's pitch. In addition, most installers will request no bigger than 4", and prefer a 2x2 tile to work with on the shower floor. This is also advantageous to the homeowner who'll be showering in there, because the added grout joints will add more traction to the floor.

Now, I've heard many times that you shouldn't use large format tiles in a small area like a powder room floor, and if you have a wide open bathroom, you don't want to use real small tiles. My response to both is the same-- HORSEHOCKEY. I've done bathrooms both ways-- 24x24 diagonal in a 3' wide powder room, and 1" hex ceramic mosaics in an open 100 sq. ft. bathroom floor. The rule of thumb is if you like it, it's right!

Q) How do I find/choose someone to install the tile?

A) Many people will tell you to get names from the showroom you get your tile from. This is no good, unless the showroom is willing to take responsibility for the installer by either having them on payrool, or as a subcontract. Then they have something to lose if they give you a bad installer. Many people will also tell you to get references and to actually check them out. This ALSO doesn't work. I've been in this work for just under 30 years now, and I've yet to find a single installer who ever gave the name of someone they had a problem with. They say even a blind squirrel will find a nut once in a while. The same can be said for "fly-by-nights" and good work.

So if you can't trust recommendations, and checking references is a lost cause, what do you do? REVERSE THE PROCESS!! Instead of finding an installer and getting references, get references, and thru them, find your installer!! No matter where you live, if you drive around, you'll find constructions sites and developements. Stop and ask who the GC uses. Get a name and phone number. Sooner or later, after asking around enough, you're going to find that the same names will begin to show up time and time again. THESE are the guys you want to use. But don't expect a bargain price, and be prepared to wait, because these guys will be in high demand, even in the worst of times, and they may demand a bit higher price, but they'll be worth every penny, if for no other reason, just because of the peace of mind they'll give you in knowing you're getting a good quality installation. Ask anyone who's gone through this experience, good or bad-- that alone is worth its weight in gold.

Q) What are the proper underlayments for tile?

A) There are several, and I'll take them one at a time:

CBU (cementitious Backer Units)-- This is the term that generally covers all cement boards (such as Wonderboard or Durock) or cement fiber boards (such as Hardibacker). This is the most common used tile underlayment. Generally speaking, it comes in two thicknesses-- 1/2" and 1/4"-- and each has its use. !/2" must be used for wall installations, due to the fact that the 1/4" is way too flimsy with nothing to back it up, and would flex too much to last. Besides, the 1/2" CBU will usually match up nicely to most sheetrocks. The 1/4" is used for floor installations, unless the added height of the 1/2" is needed to match up to other floorings. Being that neither has very much structural strength, so long as the subfloor is 3/4" or more, the 1/4" CBU is all that's needed. Keep in mind that even though it's basically fiberglass reinforced concrete, the only thing it adds to the floor is a stable bonding surface, so the 1/4" will do just fine. One place where alot of contractors will try and shortcut is by using greenboard instead of CBU for shower walls. This is expressly forbidden in the IRC (International Residential Code) by the following code:

IRC Greenboard Code:
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in
Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat
gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325
or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers
recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in
tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas."

The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that
"Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall
not be used where there will be direct exposure to water."

Membranes-- There are several around that work well over many different surfaces. Most of them are what's called "Crack Isolation Membranes". Just about every manufacturer has one, from trowel ons or roll ons, such as Hydroment's Ultraset or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban, to sheet membranes such as Noble's CIS membrane. All will give the tile a little more protection against movement than just going over CBU. However, there's another class of membranes called "uncoupling membranes" of which the most popular by far is Schluter's Ditra, that are made from bonding two layers together, usually a fabric fleece backing and a plastic sheeting with dovetailed waffling to "lock" the thinset in place ( as opposed to accepting a thinset BOND). These membranes will, as their name implies, uncouple their two layers in case of movement, to save the floor, and for thinset floors, it's the most protection you can give your tile floor.

Plywood-- This is one where I get the most flack. I'm one of a dying breed that still believes in tiling directly over plywood. However, I can very well understand the reluctance of the industry to embrace this installation method, even though the TCNA DOES approve of its use for interior installations (Those with a handbook can check Method F-149). The reason I say that is it's a very "tempermental installation method. You need to be very familiar with what you're doing, or you risk failure. There are even many pros I wouldn't trust to tile using this method. Everything you do is important, from the species of plywood used, to the direction the grain is laid with relation to the joists, to how it's gapped, and a host of other specs, as well-- many of which won't be found in the handbook, and if you miss just one of them, you're flirtin with disaster. All in all, when people ask me about it, I tell them that with the membranes available, there's no need to go directly over plywood. There are other methods that will give you just as long lasting a floor, and aren't NEARLY as sensitive.

Mudset-- This is the oldest, and still, after THOUSANDS of years of use, the strongest installation method available. In a mudset installation, a minimum of 1 1/4" of mortar called "drypack" (mixed to the consistancy of damp sand) is either bonded to a concrete slab, or laid down over tarpaper or 6 mil poly with wire reinforcement, packed, and then screaded off to flat level (or pitched) subfloor. This is what most people see when tiling a shower pan. Initially, the mud will be a somewhat soft subfloor. But over time, if mixed properly, it'll be stronger than concrete.

Q) What are the proper tile setting compounds?

A) This is one where I could write a book. It all depends on what kind fo tile you're installing, and what the underlayment is that you're going over. I'll give a generalized list:

Polymer/ latex modified thinset: For all intents and purposes, this is the "cure-all". For almost any installation the modified thinset, which is basically portland cement, silica sand, and chemical polymers added for strength, will work. There are some that are specialized, such as the lightweight non-sag thinsets (such as Laticrete's 255 or Mapei's Ultralite), or the high latex content thinsets (like Latictrete's 254 Platinum or Hydroment's Reflex), but with the exception of going over some membranes, there's a modified thinset for every installation.

Unmodified thinset: This is the same as above, but with no polymers added. It's usually used in conjunction with a liquid latex additive, but will also be used mixed with water for going over some membranes. It's also used as a bedding for all CBU's.

Medium Bed Mortars-- This is a relatively new class of setting mortars, used mainly for large format tiles, where the normal notched trowels just don't put down enough material, and with thinset, it would be too much, causing too much shrinkage as it dries, causing voids under, and poor bond to, the tile, but at the same time, there's not enoough room for a mudset installation. This mortar is usually used with either a 1/2x1/2" or 1/2x3/4" notched trowel.

Mastics and Premixed Thinsets: THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! Let me say that again-- THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! They work well for vertical installations, where the tile used is 8x8 or less, and it's not a wet area. ALL THREE of those conditions must be met!! I know just about every pail of type 1 mastic says it can be used in showers except for the floor. DON'T BELIEVE IT!! Also, both mastic and premixed thinset (which is just mastic with a fine sand mixed in to give it bulk) claim they can be used for floor installations. Unfortunately, for the amount of material needed under virtually all floor tiles to bond to the subfloor, neither of these will fully harden. I had a personal experience where I helped a sister in law across country, telling her husband exactly how to do his main floor, what to use, and how to use it. Unfortunately, he went to the big box store to get his tile and materials, and they talked him into using premixed thinset. I didn't hear about it until SIX MONTHS LATER when his tile and grout joints started showing cracks all over the floor. When he called me I asked him what he used for thinset, and sure enough, this is when he told me. I told him to pull one of the tiles, and SIX MONTHS LATER, IT WAS STILL SOFT!!! DOn't let them talk you into it!! Use the proper thinset, and don't try and shortcut your installation. You're spending alot of money for it to be "just practice"!!

Q) How do you deal with different thicknesses of tile?

A) Whatever it takes. I've used membranes, built up the amount of thinset being used, I've even doubled up tiles when it worked out that way. Whatever it takes to get the two tiles to be flush toeach other.

Q) What are the typical tools required to lay tile?

A) Generally speaking, this is a list for just about all installations. Some may require specialized tools, but this would be for all:

Proper sized notched trowel
measuring tape
chalk line
margin trowel
high amp low speed drill and mixing paddle (best would be 6 amp or better and less than 400 rpm)
several buckets
score and snap cutter for straight ceramic cuts
4 1/2" grinder with a continuous rim dry diamond blade for ceramic, anything other than straight cuts
wet saw (can be used for ALL cuts, ceramic or stone)
grout float
hydra grout sponges (2-- once for grouting, one for cleaning)
24" and 48" levels (for vertical work)
heavy duty extension cords
screwgun or nailgun (where CBU will be used)

Q) What about tile spacing and tpes of grout?

A) According to Dave Gobis from the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation in Pendleton, South Carolina, there will finally be a new standard for ceramic tile next year. The tolerances are shrinking. There will also be a standard for rectified tile. Along with that, there will be a revision to the installation standards that will specifically recommend a grout joint no less than 3 times the variation of the tile. For rectified tile the minimum grout joint width will be .075 or just over a 1/16".

As for grout, there's only one thing that determines whether you use sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the grout joint. Anything less than 1/8" you use unsanded grout. 1/8" or larger, you need to use sanded grout. The reason is that the main ingredient in grout is porland cement, which tends to shrink as it dries. In joints 1/8" or larger, the grout will shrink way too much and end up cracking ans shrinking into the joint. The sand give the grout bulk, and the sanded grout won't shrink nearly as much and therefore, can be used in the larger joints.


clipped on: 10.09.2008 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 10.09.2008 at 10:18 am

RE: Bathroom tile and prep questions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 10.04.2008 at 02:36 am in Bathrooms Forum

For tiling ceramic onto drywall in a non-wet area, you might find mastic easier to work with. It has better tack and better sag resistance than non-specialty thinsets.

As to cut tiles on a wall, sometimes the size of the baseboard or crown can be adjusted, or the thickness of the grout lines can be adjusted, or a fru fru decorative border can be added somewhere in the wall which will allow you to not have any cut tiles in the wall.

If you do need to cut a course, yes, what you want to avoid is a thin sliver of tile at the top or bottom.

A couple of examples:

If using 6" squares, if I have 15 full courses and the last course is 5", then I might cut one inch off the top course of tile and leave it at that. Or I might cut i" off the bottom course of tile and have that conform to a wavy floor, and finish the wall to the ceiling with 15 full courses of uncut tile.

If I had 15 full courses and the last course came out at 1", then instead of having that "sliver" of tile at the top of the wall, I'd only use 14 full courses. I'd take the 6" plus 1" remaining, divide that by 2, and get 3-1/2".

You could then use a 3-1/2" course at the bottom and top of the wall and the 14 full courses in between.

The "rule of thumb" is that if a cut row will be less than one-half of a tile (in this case less than 3"), then use the latter method to avoid the sliver.

It's not a necessity to do that, it depends on the tile used, your layout, the overall design, etc.

You can use that same technique vertically as well, to avoid slivers in the corners of the room. Same with floor layouts.

And yes, if you have an out-of-level floor, you want the wall tile level, so you'd cut the bottom edge of the first course of wall tile to conform to the wavy floor, and set the tile so the top edge of the first course of tile is dead level. And if doing so, it's easier to hide that cut if it's done with large tile rather than small tile.

Example, my floor is 1" out of level. If I was using 2" tile my bottom course if tile would go from a full tile to a half tile. Very noticeable.

If I was using 12" tile, my bottom course would go from a full 12" tile to an 11" tile. That's not as apparent to the eye.

When doing a wall wher the floor is not level, often tiles I'll screw a ledger board to the wall to "replace" my bottom row of wall tile. I'll then tile off that so the second and subsequent courses are deal-perfect.

I'll then remove the board and cut and fill in the bottom course of wall tile.



clipped on: 10.08.2008 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2008 at 10:49 pm

RE: Bathroom tile and prep questions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 10.03.2008 at 02:57 pm in Bathrooms Forum

"I have put the blue drywall behind where the vanity will go, I'm satisfied it's not going to get that wet, but around the shower and above it, I want to tile and thought I'd use backerboard or whatever the fibrecement sheeting is called....which leads to a couple of more questions -"

"Blue" that blueboard, or drywall typically used for veneer plaster applications? It can be finished with paper tape and joint compound, so it'll be fine in non-wet areas (wet areas being a shower or tub surround).

For shower and tub surround walls, below 72" or below the height of the shower head, you don't want to use a drywall-type product. As you mentioned either a fiber-cement (hardieboard) or a true cement board (durock or wonderboard) would be used for the wet walls. The seams get finished with thinset and mesh-type fiberglass tape.

In wet areas, above the 72" from the floor height, you can transition to a drywall-type product and paint the surface. Or continue the cement board and tile to the ceiling.

Where you transition from the cement board to the drywall board, hide the horizontal seam behind the top course of wall tile.

"1) I understand some drywall mud is suitable for tiling and some isn't, what's best, and should the backerboard stuff be mudded at all?"

This will hopefully be an all-in-one reply:

In wet areas, use cement board or fiber-cement board as the tile backer. For those seams use thinset and mesh tape.

When you tile in a wet area, use thinset to adhere the tile to the cement backer board.

In non-wet areas, the tile backer can be the items listed above, or you can go with regular drywall. Since the drywall will not be getting wet, those joints can be finished with joint compound and paper tape.

For adhering ceramic tiles in non-wet areas, you can use thinset or mastic to adhere the tiles to the drywall.

For adhering a natural stone in non-wet areas, you should use thinset, do not use mastic. Mastic can bleed through and discolor or stain the stone.

"2) Can said mud be used for a transition join between the drywall and the backerboard? Can I tape the join, or is fibreglass tape (the mesh stuff) better?"

For that transition seam you can use either; joint compound and paper tape, or thinset and joint compound.

"4) I'm (ideally) keeping the original door jamb which means it finishes more or less flush with the drywall. Around the rest of the house I've used a plain, chunky square 4"x1" trim/skirting/doorframe. I figure I have to either affix the trim *before* the tiling because I assume the tiles will butt up against them. I thought about using parchment paper or similar to protect the trim edges when tiling then remove paper and silicone seal the edge (and maybe not attempt to grout up to the edge of the trim)"

An easy way is to tack a scrap piece of wood in place where the trim will go. If your trim is 4", set the edge of the scrap piece of wood at the 4-1/8" line. Now tile right tight up against the piece of scrap wood.

When tile is set, remove the scrap piece of wood. Install your 4" trim. You should now have a very nice 1/8" gap between the edge of the tile and the trim. Caulk that gap, as wood may move seasonally and the movement would cause grout to cracks. There are color and texture (sanded vs unsanded) caulks made to match most grout colors.

"5) Am I crazy to leave the vinyl flooring when I'm doing virtually everything else? Vinyl is in good shape despite the work etc that went on around it, and it continues out into the hall unbroken so I'd have to redo a fair amount of flooring. I'd love to tile it but I figure walls are hard enough (haven't tiled a wall before) so floors might be a it much...besides, I'm thinking as long as I'm prepared to remove skirting, vanity and toilet, the floor could be redone later, if necessary....?"

That's your call. If you think you might tile down the road, then plan for it now. Think of how thick your tiled floor might be. Example, if your existing subfloor is 3/4" plywood, there is probably something like 1/4" luan over that and your vinyl is on top of that. So on top of your existing subfloor you have maybe 1/4" plus 3/16", or just under a half-inch of "flooring".

If you tile, you might need to remove all that half-inch of "flooring" and add half-inch underlayment, then either 1/8" ditra or 1/4" cement board, then your thinset and tile (1/8" plus 3/16").

So sort of worst case (and a total supposition) you'd be looking at adding 1/2" ply underlayment + 1/8" thinset + 1/4" cement board + 1/8" thinset + 3/16" floor tile, or about 1-3/16" total.

But before you add that thickness you'd be subtracting the already installed 1/4" luan and 3/16" vinyl.

1-3/16ths minus 7/16ths means the height of your finished tile floor will be 3/4" higher than the finish of your existing vinyl floor.

(I think!)

So, if you want a 1/8" gap between your wall tile and your floor tile, set the bottom edge of your bottom course of wall tile 7/8" above the height of your existing vinyl floor.

Now, all that figuring and ciphering is nothing more than a crap shoot. So what I'd recommend in a case like yours is to plan on eventually having a tiled floor, tiled walls, and a wood baseboard as a transition between the two.

If down the road you wanted a 5" tall baseboard, set a 6" tall baseboard in place now, and set the top of the baseboard level.

Tile the walls with the bottom course of wall tile sitting on top of the baseboard.

When you eventually finish your floor, remove the baseboard, tile the floor, then rip about an inch off the baseboard to make it 5" instead of 6", and it'll fit nicely.

A lot of "what if's" and made up numbers in my post, but it's a start.



clipped on: 10.08.2008 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2008 at 10:48 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: warsher on 02.19.2007 at 11:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

First mistake "do'nt gut it". Gut it and second, use a vapor barrier under the cement board, do'nt use greenboard. The rusted nails will tell you where the vapor barrier and cement board prefer to go, I would just put the vapor lock everywhere, use half inch boards. You can use 6 mil plastic or roofing felt as barrier under boards, stapled. I like roofing, a little better insulation sound/thermal.
Cement board is a sponge, if that bothers you do what I did, use a cement board sealer around the shower/pullman area Depot has it. I used epoxy that I get cheap, 80 dollars for 1.5 gallon. That stops moisture before the board and not after.
Next stop tub. Cast iron equals quiet and thermal insulation it memorizes heat, (not drumlike with no echoes) Kohler Villager is cheapest; I say mistake. It is 14 inches tall so beware of a too little tub. I got the Toto 1525 at Express Pipe here in southern cal, 554 dollars. the tub iron is twice as thick as Kohlers I saw also, the glaze is smoother. 2 people can install it (the ground is the third person, roll the tub in end over end or just shuffle it in) 381 pounds but not heavy as you think.
Vanity, ebay has good glass/metal ones, will not absorb odors, lifetime product, under 500 with all hardware, faucets.
The toilet must do one thing foremost, flush. try the Toto Drake and if not the Ultramax will give you much more room. Express pipe or Homeclick. There are some horrible toilets out their beware, get a commercial one, Toto G max for instance.
Porcelain is king on tile, Ceramic is ok, check the grade (1-5) Marble is ok for a bathroom floor awesome visually. I would use 1/8 grout line porcelain on shower with sanded grout. Unsanded might shrink. Keep sponge dry, use caulk in tile corners, do not use premix wet mastic under tile, use powdered thinset with latex additive.
You might want to leave in the cieling when you gut.
You might want to get some kilz and paint the studs around the shower area if moisture problems were evident.


clipped on: 09.14.2008 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2008 at 10:24 pm

New master bath

posted by: sergeyp on 01.22.2008 at 02:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've posted pictures of my new kitchen a few days ago.
I also have two new bathrooms. Here is the master:

Paint - Kelly-Moore KM 3945-1 Wild Oaks semigloss
Floor tile - DM 30 12x12 from Best Tile
Shower floor tile - Doria Gris 2.5x2.5 from Best Tile
Wall tile - Ermitage Gris 8x10, 3x8 Bullnose, 8x10 Deco from Best Tile
Glass doors - Schicker AG91
Shower bench - Better bench 21 x 21 x 30 from Artistic Tile
Vanity Countertop - Pink Porrino granite
Vanity - Premier Wyndham Maple Spice from Home Depot
Medicine cabinet - Kohler CLC3526FS
Lavatory - American Standard Piazza
Lavatory faucet - Grohe 20 892 + 18 076 Talia Wideset with Cross Handles
Shower faucets:
Grohe 34.096.000 Chara Neu Exposed Thermostatic Shower Valve
Grohe 28.444.000 Movario 5 Hand Shower
Grohe 28.398.000 36" Shower Bar
Grohe 28.417.000 Movario Hose
Toilet - Toto Carlyle MS874114 SG, one piece, skirted
Fan - Panasonic FV-08VQ3
Lighting - Adjustable 16" Wide Two Kight Wall Sconce from LampPlus
Radiant floors - Thermosoft Flooring Mats with Programmable thermostat
Towel warmer - Jeeves Towell Warmer, Model I
Hardware from Channel and Dawn


bath before bath before

bath before bath before


new master bath new master bath

new master bath new master bath

new master bath new master bath

new master bath new master bath

new master bath new master bath

new master bath new master bath

new master bath

Here is a link that might be useful: Remodel 2007


clipped on: 02.03.2008 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2008 at 09:40 pm

New guest bath room

posted by: sergeyp on 01.22.2008 at 02:08 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've posted pictures of my new kitchen a few days ago.
I also have two new bathrooms. Here is the guest:

Paint - Kelly-Moore KM 4177-1 Hoverstraw, semigloss
Floor tile - Newport Crema 13x13 from Best Tile
Wall tile - Salem Crema 8x12, 8x12 Deco, 1x8 Border, 2x8 Bullnose from Best Tile
Vanity - Premier Wyndham Maple Spice from Home Depot
Vanity countertop - Almond Mauve granite
Tall cabinet - Premier Wyndham Maple Spice 84" tall utility from Home Depot
Medicine cabinet - Kohler CLC3526FS
Lavatory - American Standard Savona
Lavatory faucet - Grohe 20 892 + 18 076 Talia Wideset with Cross Handles
Tub faucets:
Grohe 34.097.000 Chara Neu Exposed Thermostatic Tub Filler
Grohe 28.444.000 Movario 5 Hand Shower
Grohe 28.398.000 36" Shower Bar
Grohe 28.417.000 Movario Hose
Fan - Panasonic FV-08VQ3
Tub - Crane Enameled Steel, 54 x 15 x 30, Eldorado 2172XL02
Sliding doors - Schicker 1039
Toilet - Toto MS874114 SG, one piece, skirted
Lighting - Loop Brushed Steel 24 3/4" Wide from Lamp Plus
Radiant floors - Thermosoft Flooring Mats with manual thermostat
Hardware from Channel and Dawn


bath before bath before

bath before bath before


new guest bath new guest bath

new guest bath new guest bath

new guest bath new guest bath

new guest bath new guest bath

neew guest bath neew guest bath

new guest bath new guest bath

new guest bath new guest bath

new guest bath neew guest bath

Here is a link that might be useful: Remodel 2007


clipped on: 02.03.2008 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2008 at 09:39 pm

RE: gallery glass? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: oceanna on 12.13.2007 at 09:04 am in Home Decorating Forum

It's perfectly fine to bump your own post to get the answers you need. I'm glad you did. Yep, I'm a west coast nightowl.

I'd work on my window for an hour or two at a time. I think the reason I was successful is because I reeeeaaaaallly wanted those windows. So it doesn't have to look amateurish if you're determined for it to look good -- just stick with it until it makes you happy.

I wouldn't use a metallic paint; it looks awful when it gets on the lines and real stained glass windows don't look like that anyway.

The good thing about redi-leading is it's flexible stuff. Put a line down (on the window glass) and if it's not right you can nudge it with your fingernail, or pick it up and put it down again. Just try not to stretch or dent it.

Paint a section and if you don't like it, add layers of more or a different color on it. Better to add a few thin layers than to get it on too thick and have it run if you're working on the vertical window itself. On the horizontal on clings it doesn't matter. Worst case scenario, if you make a booboo directly on the window, cut the dried paint section out around the edges with your exacto knife, peel it off, and start over again.

Let me give you a few tips about picking out a design...

The more simple your design the easier it is to do your window. Taping the black lines is the hardest part; the painting part went fairly quickly. So fewer black lines is easier. This goes for taping redi-lines on your window; it does not go for doing curvy lines on a cling with Marabu paint... do all the black lines you want if you're doing a cling.

Straight lines are harder to tape than curved lines. So curvy trees and flowers are easier than gridding things off perfectly. So building a few flowers is easier than putting squares all around the outside of a big window, for instance.

If you look at my son's dragonfly window, I did the flowers and dragonfly part on clings, sitting on my butt at the table. Fun and comfy. I wanted to do a million of them!

I did all the straight and connecting lines on my feet at the window, some of it standing on my stepstool. Not as fun.

Then I "glued" the whole thing together with the paint that goes between the lines. You need to touch the lines a little with your paint, as that helps cement the whole thing down. I wanted to be darned sure those clings were attached to the adjacent paint so they'd never have the option of deciding to UN-cling some day.

That said, pick whatever design you fall madly in love with because if you want it bad enough that will be the driving force behind your getting it.

If it were me, I'd pick a design with flowers for your window -- all curvy lines, which is easiest. I'd draw a few flowers that would fit well inside your little panes and connect them with curvy stems and throw some leaves on there. Then I'd make those with the paint that the gal sells at Her liquid leading is a lot easier to use than the GG product, and her colors are spectacular.

Just print or draw out your flowers and trace over them on clings -- she explains it to you in her video. If you want it to look like real stained glass, don't do that stylized painting she shows you (notice I did it on my hummingbird, but he's obviously a cling and not trying to be a stained glass window). Oh, and buy her little tool for popping bubbles -- it's fantastic. She's just wonderful to talk with on the phone and her paint is a joy to work with, so easy.

Once you have the flowers and leaves done, trim them off close to your outer lines and stick them on your windows. Then connect them with curvy lines or fatter stems. Then paint the rest of your window. For the painting you do right on the window you want GG paints. Oh, and stick the clings up soon after you make them -- I think it does make a difference on how well they cling.

Another way you could do it is get a big roll of paper from Staples or any office supply. Measure your windows side to side; that's your width. Measure one pane top to bottom and multiply by your number of panes (on one side) and that's your height. Draw that "frame" on your paper. Then draw your design. Then cut your paper into panes, just like your window. Then if you have cling blanks that are as big as or bigger than an individual pane, you could do the entire thing on clings with Marabu paint and it would be SO easy and fun!

Remember how glass is cut... if you wouldn't want to cut it out of glass, then you'll need to cut that piece up into a few smaller pieces with lines -- just as a glass artist would do it. For illustration, look at the dragonfly window I did. See the lines up at the top that seem to have no purpose? You'll see lines like that in all real stained glass because it's awkward to cut, say, a "c" shape out of glass. Make sense?

Well, I hope this post isn't TMI or confusing. I'm very excited that you're going to do this and I can't wait to see what you do! Promise me you'll post it.

For pattern inspiration there are books at your library on stained glass design, and pictures of stained glass windows all over the web. There are also a few copyright-free sites. Here are a couple you might enjoy:

Here is a link that might be useful: Free stained glass patterns


clipped on: 12.28.2007 at 04:37 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2007 at 04:37 pm

RE: My latest installment on how the bathroom turns .. (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: zipdee on 08.09.2007 at 06:57 am in Home Decorating Forum

Thanks so much everyone for taking a look and for the encouragment. :) I removed the pins last night and the glue is setting up well, it should be ready to hem the bottom up soon. It's been super hot here, right around 100 F with high humidity, even with the air running stuff is drying rather slow. I've also had a whole upstairs full of kids yesterday and most likely today ( mine and the neighborhoods ), it's just too hot to play out right now, even in the pool. So projects right now aren't going very fast, but they're having a good time upstairs.

TotallyBlessed, what we did was gutted the upstairs of our house and opened it up for our daughters to share. We live in a rather old home and this was the best way to use an awkward space that was cut up by dormer, low in some area and vaulted in others. They have a bedroom area, a bath, video, tv, plus play areas and an art area. It's still not totally finished, this has been over a year long DIY project now. Here's a few pics of what we do have done though if you'd like to see. :)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 08.09.2007 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2007 at 01:58 pm

RE: HELP!! I dont cook much and need a meal by Thursday for 7 pe (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: chase on 08.07.2007 at 12:12 pm in Cooking Forum

Here you go!!! I served it with Cheese Enchiladas but it would be dynamite with fajitas or tacos.

Spicy Black Bean Salsa
Posted by: LoriJean44 (My Page) on Mon, Jul 21, 03 at 21:07

The last black bean salsa I made was from the July 2003 Bon Appetit. Tim said it was the best black bean salsa he ever had!

1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 15- to 16-ounce cans black beans, rinsed, drained
1-1/2 cups fresh corn kernels, blanched, or frozen corn kernels, thawed
1-1/2 cups chopped red onion
1-1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (about 3 medium)
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
1 large ripe avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, diced
Tortilla chips

Whisk first 6 ingredient in large bowl to blend. Stir in beans, corn,
onion, tomatoes, and bell pepper. Mix in avocado; season to taste with
salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 2 hours ahead. Cover and
refrigerate.) Transfer salsa to serving bowl. Serve with tortilla chips.

NOTE: I grilled the corn and added garlic to the salad.


clipped on: 08.08.2007 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2007 at 10:26 pm

RE: Summer Virtual Dinner - Hors d'oeuvres (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: stacy3 on 07.25.2007 at 09:33 am in Cooking Forum

These are wonderful and fresh tasting. The beef can be grilled and sliced and put in the sauce ahead of time. And toppings can be added - such as sprouts, chopped peanuts, etc...

*1/2 Cup fresh lime juice
*1/4 cup Asian fish sauce
*1/4 cup granulated or light brown sugar
*2 lg garlic cloves, minced
*2 tsp minced small fresh green chile such as Thai or serrano, including seeds, or 1 tsp dried hot red pepper flakes
*16 very thin slices rare roast beef (3/4 to 1 lb) I use flank steak
*16 large lettuce leaves, from 1 head Boston or 2 heads Bibb
*16 fresh mint sprigs (I don't use)
*16 fresh cilantro sprigs
*2 carrots, cut into 1/8 inch thick matchsticks
- can also cut julienne slices of cucumbers.
Whisk together lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and chile in a medium bowl until sugar is dissolved. Toss roast beef with half of sauce to coat. Season with salt.
Arrange leaves, sprigs, and carrots on a platter and serve with beef. To assemble, fill each lettuce leaf with a bit of beef, a mint sprig, a cilantro sprig, and some carrots, and whatever toppings you have. Serve with remaining sauce.


clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2007 at 11:58 pm

RE: Summer Virtual Dinner - Main course (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: debbie814 on 07.28.2007 at 08:26 am in Cooking Forum

I hope to participate if I can get everything done to go on vacation the following day.

Jessy's Lime-Chipotle Sauce - Sunset Magazine

Food processor:
1/2 cup honey
2 tablespoons minced canned chipotle chilies in adobado sauce
3 tablespoons brown mustard
1/2 cup lime juice
1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Season with salt and pepper

Serve sauce as a marinade grilled meats, poultry, and fish if your guests don't get to it first with tortilla chips. Makes 1 1/2 cups


clipped on: 08.04.2007 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2007 at 11:26 pm

RE: Sonoma Tantrum Tile in Backsplash? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: monicakm on 07.31.2007 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

ketinmd, your backsplash is beautiful and from what I can see so is the rest of the kitchen :)

goldenone, I'm not using Sonoma, I'm using a West Minister's Bel Sol crushed glass tiles in my bathroom remodel. They look the same. Might have different colors tho. I think the Bel Sol is less spendy if you'd like to check it out.
I'm doing "sea tones" in the bath. If I were redoing my kitchen (again), I'd use the "earth tones".


clipped on: 08.02.2007 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2007 at 10:03 pm

Blueberry Oatmeal requested

posted by: ann_t on 08.01.2007 at 10:15 pm in Cooking Forum

Home Cookin Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

Blueberry Oatmeal Squares
Source: Canadian Living Magazine August 2007

2 1/2 cups rolled oats (NOT Instant)
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup cold butter, cubed


3 cups fresh blueberries
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup orange juice (NOTE: I juiced a couple of oranges)
4 tsp. cornstarch

Filling Directions:

In saucepan, bring blueberries, sugar and orange juice to boil; reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Whisk cornstarch with 2 tablespoons water; whisk into blueberries and boil, stirring until thickened, about 1 minute. Place plastic wrap directly on surface and refrigerate until cool, about one hour.

(NOTE:) I added a splash of Grand Marnier to the berries)

In a large bowl, whisk together oats, flour, sugar, orange rind and salt; with pastry blender, cut in butter until coarse crumbs. Press half into 8 inch square parchment paper-lined metal cake pan; spread with blueberry filling. Sprinkle with remaining oat mixture,pressing lightly.

Bake in centre of 350F oven until light golden, about 45 minutes. Let cool on rack before cutting into squares.

Make ahead: Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days or overwrap with heavy-duty foil and freeze for up to 2 weeks.


clipped on: 08.02.2007 at 07:59 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2007 at 07:59 pm

I Decided on a Travertine (Wannabe) Porcelain

posted by: monicakm on 07.23.2007 at 10:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I looked at the Mohawk Borghesi and Portabello Bahia. Of those two I liked the Portabello the best but it only comes in a 12". My designer friend suggested Marazzi's Eclypse (Moonlight color) weeks ago but I had to see for myself what else was out there. She was right. It really is an excellent "wannabe" (g)
I asked another designer what she would choose if a client wanted the best looking travertine porcelain. She said the same thing. The small sample on the Marazzi sample board does nothing for this tile. Seeing it in the 20x20" size made all the difference. If you're looking for a porcelain that looks like travertine, give this one a look-see :)


clipped on: 08.02.2007 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2007 at 04:59 pm

RE: What is your favorite pot luck contribution? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: publickman on 07.30.2007 at 02:56 pm in Cooking Forum

At the last potluck picnic I went to, I made Calzone:

I used 2/3 of pizza dough recipe (see link below), which made a rather thick crust, and so it was like a filled focaccia bread. For the filling I used a thin layer of marinara sauce (which I thickened with a bit of tomato paste, to make it less watery), sauted vegetables (mushrooms, red bell pepper, onion), several cheeses (buffalo Mozzarella, sharp Provolone, Parmigiana Reggiano), and a chiffonade of basil. You can also add cold cuts, such as ham, pepperoni, turkey, or whatever you like, but I preferred to keep my meatless because I expected there to be vegetarians there, which there were. It travels well and is good cold, although it is even better when reheated.

Here's how it looks before it is folded together:

This is also good with extra cheese served on the side, since the crust comes out a bit thick.


Here is a link that might be useful: Pizza dough recipe


clipped on: 07.30.2007 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2007 at 10:06 pm

RE: Can I see your CHROME faucets? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dmlove on 07.28.2007 at 12:12 am in Bathrooms Forum

biondanonima, the sink is the Toto Lloyd series -- on the site , it only shows the version that comes with the "frame", but (obviously) you can get it just as a drop in. Nothing ever splashes out of this sink - I'm not sure if it's the depth or the interior angles, but it's great.

Here is a link that might be useful: Toto Lloyd sink


clipped on: 07.28.2007 at 12:43 am    last updated on: 07.28.2007 at 12:43 am

RE: How Many Sets of Sheets Do You Own? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: housekeeping on 07.25.2007 at 06:17 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Ok, I'll side with you, but I think three would be barely adequate. In fact, I think a reasonable number is more like five or six even if you only change your bed once a week.

The reason for the higher number is to make sure you have enough so any sudden crisis doesn't force you to have to wash right then. Think of it, you find yourself coming down with something and you take to bed. If you're sleeping on those sheets for 24 hours, I think you should change them daily. So say you do and now you're on to your second set, and still feeling under the weather. Then your DH brings you chicken soup in bed and you spill the mug (or your cat tosses a hairball, or you realize you've won the lottery and your spill your tea.) Anyway, you get my drift. At that point you'll need a third set. Of course, you could have gotten up and washed and dried the first set, but I usually don't feel like that when I'm in the throes of illness. I just like staggering to the linen closet and getting a fresh set whenever I surface from sleep. One of the signs that I'm finally feeling better is that I am beavering away in my accumulated laundry.

Btw, I think you should always an extra bottom sheet per set, as the bottoms wear out first and then you're left without a matching pair. Kind of like buying extra wash cloths for every towel.

The other reason to keep so many sheets on hand (and in rotation) is that I find that sheets vary and once you find something you like it pays to stock up while you can still find them.

For those who like advance planning, a good quality sheet should last through 125 washings, and more in the case of top sheets. A decade's supply of sheets changed say 60 times per year would be about five pairs, so my estimate of 5 or 6 would be right on the mark. (And maybe an extra couple of bottom sheets to account for extra wear.) Added to that, you'd need 6 to 8 cases per pillow as they seem to wear out faster than sheets, perhaps because they get more crushing and abrasion along their hems. If you're looking to save money on sheets, try to buy ones that are the same design on top and bottom of the sheet (design has no clear direction), then after about 60-75 washings, rip out the the two hems and exchange the orientation. This keeps the fold-over on the top hem from getting worn and tearing. (A similar operation can be done on cases by ripping and then reducing the folded-over hem a bit to rotate the edge inward where it will get less wear.)

BTW, some of the nicest, and relatively moderately priced sheets can be had on eBay if you buy NIB percales from the 30's-50's. These are superb sheets that wear wonderfully and become softer and more smooth with every wash. And they have no resins on them to make them stiff. But, of course king sized beds didn't exist back then; you can rarely find queen size flat sheets, and never QS fitted. You can easily have fitted sheets made, however, or do it yourself. Be sure to look for real percale; some very good brands are old Wamsutta, Cannon, Lady Peperell and Pequot. Cannon makes a wonderful very light weight 200 tc percale ("Featherlight")that is superb in hot climates. Hemstitched sheets are a bad bet for daily use as they are not reversible and the fabric is weakened along the drawnwork. I keep those strictly for special occasions and guests beds.

These old sheets do have one drawback: they are not no-iron (that's why modern sheets are coated in resins, to make them "no-iron", ick!) But I find hanging them to dry solves that quite well. I do iron the cases though.

In answer to the question in your header: I own more than 80 pairs of sheets.



clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 07:36 pm

RE: Opkikid's crock pot BBQ pork...anybody got the recipe? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: opkikid on 07.25.2007 at 12:12 pm in Cooking Forum

I found it! I think that this is what you want, Sherry. I use it for tacos but others serve it on buns like BBQ. I also pour off some of the liquid so that it's not so soupy.

Slow Cooker Shredded Beef Tacos

posted by opkikid

1 1/2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
3/4 cup bottled chunky medium-hot salsa
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon (packed) dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice (optional)

Combine the salsa, brown sugar and soy sauce and pour over the meat in the slow cooker insert. Cover and cook for 8 hours on LOW or 5 to 6 hours on HIGH, or until the meat is fork-tender. Shred the meat with two forks and stir in cilantro and lime juice if using.

Set out taco shells (I like small soft corn tortillas) and all the fixings.


clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 06:23 pm

RE: The Spice Rack Challenge (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jessyf on 07.24.2007 at 11:13 pm in Cooking Forum

The only thing that comes to mind for my allspice is the lime-chipotle salsa that gets inhaled around here (and elsewhere on the forum):

Lime-Chipotle Sauce

Recipe By :
Serving Size : 0 Preparation Time :0:00
Categories : Preserving Sauces

Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
-------- ------------ --------------------------------
1/2 cup honey
2 tablespoons minced canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
3 tablespoons brown mustard -- or dijon
1/2 cup lime juice
1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Season with salt and pepper

Blend in food processor. Serve sauce as a marinade grilled meats, poultry, and fish if your guests don't get to it first with tortilla chips. Makes 1 1/2 cups. I'm a heat wus so I wave the chipotle over the bowl (well....maybe I add two teaspoons...)

Source: Sunset Magazine


clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 06:13 pm

Jamie (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: manature on 07.24.2007 at 12:22 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Jamie, I'm sorry I forgot to answer your question about the purple "tree" in the middle of the Bali hut coleus bed. It is a false roselle, hibiscus acetosella. Also called African Rose Mallow. A friend gave me this one a few weeks ago, and it has really taken off. Mine hasn't bloomed yet, but check out the pictures at the link below. I have a real fondness for the mallows, since hollyhocks don't do well here. Can't wait for mine to flower!


Here is a link that might be useful: False Roselle


clipped on: 07.24.2007 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2007 at 12:59 pm

RE: What projects are you working on now? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: flyleft on 07.24.2007 at 01:03 am in Home Decorating Forum

alifeyl, you know what I discovered this past weekend (because of our project)? Tec Standard Grey caulk (and grout, I imagine) is almost a dead match for Devine Glass! So if you want to caulk anything, like molding, you can get the color-matched caulk and you'll be set. It's really uncanny; a beautiful grey-green. Tec has some pretty beautiful grouts/caulks besides that, but not all that many people know them. They're very high-quality, just not household names because they aren't sold in HD/Lowes.


clipped on: 07.24.2007 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 07.24.2007 at 11:55 am

The Re-opening of David McLean's Nursery

posted by: fawnridge on 07.23.2007 at 05:51 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

I could simply say David McLean taught me everything I know about plants and design and you'd get an idea about what his nursery must look like. But I'll fill in the details for those who are unaware...

David McLean taught the Landscape Technology course at Broward Community College for all the years it existed (25+). The plants in his nursery are, for the most part, not found in any other nursery in South Florida. Much more than that, any conversation with David, is worth its weight in gold for the knowledge you will glean from him.

His last nursery, next to the Trinity Church in Ft. Lauderdale, has been moved one block south - 14 SW 11th Street, Ft. Lauderdale, just off Andrews Avenue and a few blocks north of Davie Boulevard. Their grand reopening is this Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 4pm. I will be there along with a group from the Croton Society, Saturday in the afternoon. Come down and collect some wonderful plants! This is a nursery you'll tell your friends about.


clipped on: 07.23.2007 at 06:04 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2007 at 06:04 pm

RE: Fabulous Florida Swap!!!! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mustangs on 07.23.2006 at 09:08 am in Cooking Forum

Ellen, WOW you really made my package sound good! I was excited when I got your name because, as Sherry said, we will be meeting shortly.

I'll bet not many people can say they have a Chestnut Slitter! And actually, that was my inspiration for the BROWN theme, after I found the slitter the package fell in place.

Since I already have it typed, here you go:

Orlando Pork Medallions in Fig Cream Sauce

  • Center-cut Pork Tenderloin (about 1.5 lbs) cut into inch slices
  • cup Bistro Blends Fig Balsamic Vinegar
  • 1 can chicken broth
  • 1 or 2, minced shallots
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • Corn starch to thicken
  • Salt and pepper

    Salt and pepper pork medallions lightly. In a large heavy skillet saut the pork in 2 tbsp olive oil until just browned. Do not overcook. Remove pork and keep in warm oven.
    Add 1 tbsp. butter to same skillet. Saut minced shallots for 2 minutes until tender. Add chicken stock and 1/4 cup Bistro Blends Fig Balsamic vinegar. Simmer about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

    Thicken with a little corn starch. Add half and half and accumulated juices from the pork platter. Simmer another 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Do not overcook. Sauce should have a little body but not turn dark brown.

    Plate the pork medallions and divide the sauce evenly to cover.

    Makes 4 to 5

  • NOTES:

    clipped on: 07.19.2007 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2007 at 04:19 pm

    RE: Food Processors (Follow-Up #27)

    posted by: ann_t on 06.26.2007 at 11:10 am in Cookware Forum

    Dragonfly, Bread is one of the easiest and most forgiving things to bake. You should really give it a try. Come on over to the main Cooking forum. There are some real experts over there with lots of advice to offer.

    I've done a few pictorials to help others visualize some of the steps.

    French Bread Pictorial

    Working with a Wet Dough

    Italian Bread making


    clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 10:13 pm

    RE: My first baguette attempt (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: doucanoe on 02.13.2007 at 05:45 pm in Cooking Forum

    These were from a Cooking Light recipe, so I was even more amazed they turned out! LOL

    Thanks, Ann....let's just say my CCD looked nothing like yours. But I will try them again, I wasn't too terribly intimidated by them! LOL

    Here you go Shaun.

    From Cooking Light Oct. 2005
    1 package dry yeast (about 2 1/4 teaspoons)
    1 1/4 cups warm water (100 to 110)
    3 cups bread flour, divided (about 14 1/4 ounces)
    1 teaspoon salt
    Cooking spray
    1 teaspoon cornmeal

    Dissolve yeast in warm water in a large bowl; let stand 5 minutes. Lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Add 2 3/4 cups flour to yeast mixture; stir until a soft dough forms. Cover and let stand 15 minutes. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface; sprinkle evenly with salt. Knead until the salt is incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic (about 6 minutes); add enough of remaining flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, to prevent dough from sticking to hands (dough will feel slightly sticky).
    Place dough in large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to coat top. Cover and let rise in warm place (85), 40 minutes or until doubled in size. (Gently press two fingers into dough. If an indentation remains, the dough has risen enough.) Punch dough down; cover and let rest 5 minutes. Divide in half. Working with 1 portion at a time (cover remaining dough to prevent drying), roll each portion on a floured surface into 12-inch rope, slightly tapered at ends. Place ropes on large baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal. Lightly coat dough with cooking spray, and cover; let rise 20 minutes or until doubled in size.

    Preheat oven to 450.

    Uncover the dough. Cut 3 (1/4-inch-deep) diagonal slits across top of each loaf. Bake at 450 for 20 minutes or until browned on bottom and sounds hollow when tapped.

    Yield: 2 loaves, 12 servings per loaf (serving size: 1 slice)



    clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 10:04 pm

    RE: Favorite vegetarian recipes (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: marigene on 04.05.2007 at 08:16 am in Cooking Forum

    Here is one of our favorites that SharonCb posted a couple months ago.

    Thai Red Curry Prawn Pasta
    Serves Four
    1 lb 2 oz (500 grams) large raw prawns, peeled and deveined
    1 t Thai red curry paste
    1 T olive oil
    4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
    2 large tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
    3/4 cup (6 fl. Oz) (180 ml) white wine
    zest and juice of 1 lime
    2 T chopped fresh cilantro
    6 oz (180 grams) wholewheat spaghettini or linguine
    Lime wedges, to serve
    Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1. Toss the prawns with the curry paste in a bowl, until well coated
    Cover and chill for at least 2 and up to 8 hours.
    2. Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the garlic and cook just until it starts to turn golden,
    about 1 - 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, lime juice and zest; bring to the boil.
    Reduce heat and simmer until the sauce reduces and thickens, about 8 minutes.
    3. Add the prawns and cook, stirring, until they are pink and firm, about 3 - 4 minutes; season to taste and stir in the cilantro.
    4. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain and add the pasta to the prawn mixture.
    Toss to coat and serve with the lime wedges. Sharon Cb 02 11 07


    clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 07:50 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 07:51 pm

    RE: company menu revisited, please critique (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: chase on 07.18.2007 at 01:26 pm in Cooking Forum

    Oh wow Lpink that is one fabulous menu! Seriously it is fabulous, lots of thought on your part, they will be wowed.

    I have nothing , zippo, rien, nada to offer that could improve on the menu. However as it relates to budget I have a dynamo and very easy recipe for Homemade Boursin with fresh herbs that may be cheaper than a store bought log and would work well with the pretzels. I think you could forget the whitefish if serving lox. Salmon cakes go together so easily I don't see the need to freeze. Marilyn's recipe is a knock out!

    Home Made Boursin with Herbs

    1 lb Farmers cheese or 1/2 lb cottage cheese & 1/2 lb Ricotta
    8 ounces cream cheese
    1/2 cup butter,softened
    4 large garlic cloves,minced
    2 medium shallots,minced
    1/2 cup fresh parsley,chopped finely and packed tight
    1/2 cup chopped fresh thyme OR 2/3 cup fresh dill chopped finely
    1/3 cup chives,chopped finely
    1 tsp pepper,freshly ground
    1/4 tsp cayenne

    Blend the cheeses and butter, add the remaining ingredients. Mix thoroughly. Store in small crocks or ramekins in the fridge until well chilled.

    Salmon Cakes (Marilyn)

    2 Clove garlic minced
    2 Tbl minced onion
    2 Dash Tabasco (or 1 teaspoon Old Bay)
    1 egg yolk (or egg white)
    2 Tbl chopped parsley
    2 Tbl real mayonnaise
    1/2 Tsp kosher salt (less if table salt)
    fresh ground pepper to taste
    2/3 Cup coarse white bread crumbs
    1 Lb fresh salmon
    1/2 Cup Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) Note: regular works
    2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil

    In a small bowl, combine garlic, onion, Tabasco, egg, parsley, mayonnaise, salt and pepper; set aside. Remove skin and bones from salmon and cut into small cubes (about 1/2-inch); place in a medium bowl and gently stir in bread crumbs. Gently fold egg mixture into salmon and bread and refrigerate at least 2 hours before shaping into 4 patties~

    Carefully coat the outside of each patty with Panko crumbs. Heat oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot and add salmon cakes. Fry the cakes until brown, about 4 minutes on each side turning only once. Serve with lemon wedges or your favorite tarter sauce.
    *May substitute cracker crumbs or bread crumbs for the Panko.

    Notes: I add a TBSP dijon mustard


    clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 02:21 pm

    RE: Need reasonably priced toilet for guest bathroom (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: house_md on 07.15.2007 at 10:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

    Do a search on the AS Cadet 3. It's awesome. Just replaced thee of my old Kohler's with Cadet 3's and couldn't be happier.

    Available at Home Depot for as low as $115.

    You definitely want the GUEST toilet to flush like a champ. Can't think of anything more embarassing for a guest than having them clog a toilet...


    clipped on: 07.15.2007 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2007 at 11:09 pm

    RE: steam showers - have one? (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: woodinvirginia on 07.11.2007 at 12:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

    wangshan... if you haven't done it yet Google John Bridge's Tile Forum . He has plenty of DIY'rs who have constructed Steam showers using the Kerdi Membrane system.


    clipped on: 07.11.2007 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2007 at 04:46 pm

    RE: Lighting ABOVE (uplights) Cabinets & Additional lighting Opin (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: dmlove on 06.29.2007 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Dragonfly, your picture size is great - not a problem.

    Like you, we have an open kitchen with cabinets that do not go up to the ceiling (not a vaulted ceiling, though). This is what we have for lighting:

    Island - one decorative pendant, about 240 watts incandescent total light (candelabra style bulbs). The fixture is gorgeous (IMHO!), the light "not so much" because it's an inverted pendant with onyx acrylic shade. Still, it's a lot better than no light, and we have a second prep area with better light.

    Other prep area - this one has a light bridge over it, just 4' above the counter. Two 4" recessed 50-watt halogen fixtures and they are fantastic for task lighting.

    General room lights - 6 5" 26-watt compact fluorescent recessed cans.

    Undercabinet lights - Juno T5 (I think) fluorescent strips.

    Overcabinet lights - Juno fluorescent strips (not sure of size), some of which are doubled up to give us more wattage so we can satisfy Title 24 (which requires no more than 50% of the total wattage in the kitchen to be incandescent).

    We have no specific light over the sink - just general room lighting. I don't stand at the sink long enough to need light :)

    We used fluorescent so much because of Title 24. Also, I'm not a fluorescent hater, in fact, I like it in some settings. We use the undercabinet lights for ambiance, or when using those counters. The above-cabinet lights are used for ambiance or to add to the general room lighting (and believe me, they add a lot). For task lighting, though, there's no question but that the halogens are the best.



    clipped on: 07.02.2007 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2007 at 02:29 pm

    RE: Why won't my laminate planks 'click' together easily? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: floorguy on 05.20.2007 at 09:38 am in Flooring Forum

    It is a rotating lock. Flat and tap, will damage the T&G, leaving you with a separated floor in the future.

    Use a wedge to hold the previous board at the special angle. Insert the end joint rotating it in, down as close to the long joint as you can. With the plank at that angle, take a 2x4 about a foot long, and using the long flat side, tap the plank into the joint. As you get it into the joint and it seams to not go any further, start to remove your wedge and keep tapping the long joint in.


    clipped on: 06.03.2007 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 06.03.2007 at 12:35 am

    RE: caulk or grout on edge of granite countertop (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: bill_vincent on 05.31.2007 at 07:09 am in Kitchens Forum

    It should be caulked, and it's never too late. he's going to have to scratch the grout out, and then use a siliconized latex made to match the grout from the same manufacturer. Not a difficult task.


    clipped on: 05.31.2007 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2007 at 11:38 pm

    RE: What color cans and what type of bulb? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: ilitem on 04.09.2007 at 06:59 am in Lighting Forum

    You are both right about the black and white trims. Black trims were the first on the market. However, most homeowners have switched to white trims for the interior. I would probably put the black ones outside because they show less dirt.

    Check the trims that you are purchasing to find out which light bulbs they will take before worrying about PAR and regular flood lamps. Some trims will not take both. don't mix the light bulbs in one room. Decide which lamps you want in which area and stay with it. If the recessed light you are using can use both types of bulbs, then you can decide if you want a warmer light or a brighter light in the area.

    At times we have mixed these by putting the brighter, whiter PAR lamps in task areas (i.e., kitchens) and the more yellow incandescent bulbs in the living areas (living room, dining room, etc.) depending on the colors that were being used. If you are contemporary, the PAR lamps are wonderful. If you are traditional we have used the regular reflector lamps.

    This is all a personal choice and I would suggest that you look at how both lamps would look in your home. Remember, you can always dim the PAR lights down and even though they will be white looking, they won't be as bright.


    clipped on: 05.23.2007 at 10:40 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2007 at 10:40 pm

    RE: I need a can-light education please (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: formulaross on 03.22.2007 at 10:35 am in Lighting Forum

    You really don't need to hire a lighting designer. Especially if you are building the home yourself, most lighting supply houses will provide the design service free. They will anticipate bidding on your business (at builder's pricing, of course), but do let them know that you will be getting several bids, so they won't have a sure deal. The box stores often have in-house designers through the contractor's service desk, so check this out. Our local Lowe's had an excellent lighting designer, but obviously this talent will vary greatly store by store.

    For recessed lighting, we went with Juno at Lowe's (better prices than the light stores) and used IC2 cans (insulation contact rated) with 24W-WH white trim with 75WPar30L halogen lamps. For the sloped ceilings we used IC926 cans with 612W-WH trim and again the 75WPar30L bulbs. On the Juno web site you can download the can specs. with all the trim and lamp details.


    clipped on: 05.23.2007 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2007 at 10:25 pm

    RE: Another Plea for Help with Kitchen Lighting Plan (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: ihaveocplanningd on 05.17.2007 at 04:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    I was busy planning my lighting for my remodel when my General asked had I considered where the joist in the ceiling were. NO I had not. So since we were taking down the old ceiling anyway I went to a corner, stood on a stool, and with a hammer found the first joist and every 16 inches poked another hole until I found every joist. Now with that info in hand I started my design anew. Then the electrician came by for a walk through and I proudly showed him my plan with the joist drawn in. Great work he says, but you have a 2 story home, have you taken into consideration that there is heat ducts and plumbing between the joists? NO I HAD NOT!! So he leaves and I get my hammer out again. Sure enough there was duct work and plumbing. Now I don't know if you're remodeling or starting new but this is what I figured out. My existing lights were where there was no obstruction. Even with taking down the old ceiling, which made it super easy for my electrician to do the wiring some of my lights weren't exactly where I planned. Lighting designers ARE expensive.
    Do you know a electrician? Someone who at least could tell you if plan is even possible.

    BTW I love my under cab xenon lights and my 4" cans which are 18" on center away from the front of my upper cabinets.

    Good luck


    clipped on: 05.18.2007 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2007 at 05:51 pm

    RE: Michael De Luca on light placement (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: jon1270 on 05.06.2007 at 07:36 am in Lighting Forum

    "the edge of the beam intersects the junction"

    Generally, there is no 'edge of the beam.' The light from most bulbs is brightest in the middle of the beam and gets less bright as you go out from the center. The gradient is narrower for spot lights and wider for floods. The 'beam angle' tells you the approximate angle at which the light is half as bright as it is in the center of the beam.

    I haven't read DeLuca's book. He is right that placing the lights closer in is likely to place scallops of intense light on the upper cabinets. That can look odd if the placement of lights has no relationship to the placement of cabinets and thus appears random, but it can be done thoughtfully and look fine. If you don't like the scallops at all and prefer to place lights further out, then you're going to get the shadows. Oh, and yes, you would want to get good UC lighting if you want the counters well-lit. Even with them you'd never eliminate those shadows, but you could make them much less noticeable.

    If you were to move the cans toward the cabs and use them for task lighting, I think you'll find that 50W par20 bulbs are a little underpowered for 9' ceilings. Even if you spaced them 32" apart, you'd only have about 40 footcandles on the front of the counters, which may be enough if your eyes are good. Stepping up to par30 bulbs could give just as much light with the same amount of electricity and fewer fixtures, or more light with a similar number of fixtures.

    It's worth mentioning that you have to think about your own needs to make sense of the options; formulas can help you attain a particular light-level target, but you really ought to be sure that the target the formula aims for is appropriate for you and your lifestyle. If your counters are primarily used for opening takeout food, task lighting may not be very important. If you do a lot of chopping and mixing and reading of recipes then you may want much better than average lighting.


    clipped on: 05.17.2007 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2007 at 11:43 pm

    RE: Rope lighting for undercabinet installation? (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: remodeler_matt on 05.09.2007 at 01:01 am in Lighting Forum

    You pretty much put them in order of inefficiency, with incandescants using the most energy and creating the most heat, and fluorescents using the least. Halogen and Xenon use about 10-20 percent less energy, but considerably more than fluorescent and do put out some heat. Any one of these can be placed on a dimmer, though you will have to get special dimmable bulbs for the fluorescents.

    I'm also a big fan of T4 and T5 fluorescents (the number describes how many eighths of and inch it is in diameter, so a T4 bulb is four-eighths, or 1/2 inch). They are very inexpensive, easy to install and to hardwire, with the appropriate accessories, and dirt cheap to run. You can get them in any temp, from cool white to warm, and some are directional, meaning you can either direct them more onto the back splash or on the counter top. Cool to the touch too, which really helps keep the a/c energy bill down.

    I find that the BigBox stores have very limited selection when it comes to undercabinet lights. I like Pegasus Associates (see below). They have a great selection, and if you call them they can talk you through everything you will need.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Pegasus UC lights


    clipped on: 05.17.2007 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2007 at 11:33 pm

    RE: Support for overhang on granite counter top. (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: pacmary on 05.15.2007 at 08:49 pm in Remodeling Forum

    I am definitely going with the steel bars. My Silestone dealer says my 12 inch overhang definitely needs support. They recommend at least 3 for my 8 foot countertop, but we're doing 4- 1 toward each end and 1 on each side of the sink where the overhang is most vulnerable.

    I called "steel fabricating" companies (in the Yellow Pages) and they all carry (and had in stock) 1/4 inch thick "rolled steel flat bars". They come in 20 foot lengths and in 2, 2.5, and 3 inch widths. The cost per bar ranged from $22 to $30, and the company I am using charges $1 per cut. They cut while you wait. I did not ask about hole drilling because we can do that ourselves. All 4 will cost under $35!!

    I am thrilled that I don't need corbels. Had them, hate them. No matter where you put them, they are always in the way of the chairs and/or the knees!


    clipped on: 05.15.2007 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2007 at 10:42 pm

    RE: Granite templating tomorrow! Need checklist; I can't be ther (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: franki1962 on 05.02.2007 at 02:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here is a cut and paste from the checklist our installer had us use

    Existing countertop and old plywood ( if it is necessary) has to be demolished
    All cabinets have to be completely installed in level.
    Corbels to support any overhang must be installed .
    Plywood for 3/4" granite/marble has to be installed on top of cabinets flush with frame of cabinets and screwed ( if no special design for overhang) (plywood thickness 5/8" )
    Cut out for undermount sinks have to be done and sink has to be moveable 1/4" in all 4 directions.
    Undermount sink has to be even with top of plywood
    All new sinks with template, all faucets, cook top , oven have to be at the house.
    If it is a Farm House Sink it must be instaled even with top of cabinets and have to be moveable 1/4" in all 4 direction.
    Cutout for cook top has to be done with 1/4" movable space in all 4 directions.
    Top of cabinets must be cleared on from any items.
    Cabinets under sink and cook top have to be empty if we do demolition.
    Sink, faucets, cook top and stove have to be disconnected, if we do demolition or not.


    clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2007 at 10:36 pm

    RE: Rope lights in glass cabinets??? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: adoptedbygreyhounds on 03.19.2007 at 07:39 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here you go, Slc2053

    One correction though. They are cuttable every 18 inches, not every 6 inches, whoops!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Imtra Marine Products, rope lighting


    clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2007 at 01:12 pm

    RE: Good Quality Knives? (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: cpovey on 03.26.2007 at 09:43 am in Kitchens Forum

    Knife afficiando and pro cook here. There are lots of good knives out there. I have used at least one of every knife listed below, and generally own a sample of each, so I speak from experience.

    Wusthof and Henckels are certainly good knives, but they are pricey. Henckels has an 'international' line that is German steel but finished in Spain that seems like a nice value. Both offer several lines-really the same knives with different handles-which is good. Some prefer one handle style, some a different one. Henckels (and possibly Wusthorf) now sell knives of lesser quality as well as their top-of-the-line products.

    Another excellent German knife is F. Dick. As well made as the above mentioned brands, but less expensive, because they do no retail advertising. They generally sell to pro's and culinary schools, but today are readily available on the Internet. Like Henckels, they make several lines, their Premier Plus is their top-notch forged knife, while their Superior line is a stamped line that is as good as the Forschner's mentioned below.

    Other knives that are of consistenly good quality include Forschner, the largest seller of knives to butchers and meat packing plants in the world. Their flexible boning knives are the best made, period. Even pro's who generally prefer other brands go for the Forschner flexible boners. Their Fibrox handles are excellent-better than their wooden handles. By the way, Forschner best known prodcuts are the Swiss Army knives.

    From Japan, the MAC knives are generally excellent, and while I personally do not like the handles, the Global knives are popular. Japanese knives are almost universally thinner than equivalent European knives, and are thus less durable, but can be made sharper. There are many other Japanese knives, but many are very expensive, with some 10" chef's knives going for over $2,000.

    Mundial knives are made in Spain or Portugal and Brazil, and offer a lot of knife for the money.

    From the USA, Lamson Sharp knives are excellent. Dexter-Russell makes a line of high quality stamped knives, especially their very popular serrated bread knives. Furi from Australia are well made, but have odd (to me) handles.

    What is easier to list are poor quality knives.
    Cutco knives, I am sorry to say, feature a poor grade of steel and very weird handles.
    Unfortunately, because of some quirk in the French legal system, a lot of companies are allowed to use the famous French knife name of Sabatier, with generally poor results. There are some good 'Sabatier' knives (look for the Elephant 'brand'), but most of them are poorly made today, just trading on the famous name.
    Another knife to avoid are all ceramic knives, today mostly made by Kyrocera. Basically, to make them acceptably strong, they have to be so thick they cannot be really sharp, and they cannot be sharpened except at the factory. They really offer no advantage over steel knives, and a ton of disadvantages. And the list of things that you cannot do with them is a mile long. Resist the urge to buy on of these at any price, despite what a couple of celebrity chef's say (for a fee).

    As a prvious poster mentioned, what is most important is how the knife feels in YOUR hand. You need to hold the knife in your hand and practice chopping/slicing/cutting with the knife before you buy. Take your time, and don't rush this step.

    While a set of knives from one maker may save you money, don't feel compelled to buy all your knives from one maker.

    Lastly, what kinves do you NEED?
    I believe you need the following to handle 98% of kitchen jobs:
    * An 8-10 inch chef's knife. Bigger people and more experienced cooks tend to prefer the larger 10' blade.
    * A 6 inch utility knife, which is a shrunken version of the above.
    * A 3.5-4 inch paring knife.
    * A 8" (roughly) serrated knife for bread and other hard things. Do NOT waste money on a forged serrated knife, as they cannot be resharpened. Buy a good quality stamped knife and just expect to replace it every 5-8 years.

    I also like to have a 6-8" flexible boning knife, but it is not essential. Get a stamped blade here, Forschner is the best, period.

    The santuko, popularized by Rachel Ray, is NOT a substitute for a chef's knife. In Japan, they are used for cutting vegetables. They are not as thick as a chef's knife, and have delicate edges. Because of the santukos (dimples), they cannot be resharpened many times, because one you hit a santuko while sharpening, the knife is trashed.

    If you are going to be slicing roasts anad turkeys, a 10-12" round tip slicer, (especially one with kullenschiffs or dimples) is a great tool. Because you are likely to use it less often, a stamped blade works great here.

    That's it. You need nothing else in knives, excpet a steel to keep your knives sharp between sharpenings.

    And shapreners are a different topic.

    By the way, I use at home/work the following knives:
    Chef's: Henckels, Dick, Sabatier (>20 years old)
    Utility: Henckels, Forschner, Sabatier, Sheffield (English)
    Paring: Henckels, Dick
    Serrated: Forschner, Dexter-Russell
    Boning: Forschner
    Slicer: Messermeister
    Chinese cleaver: Chinese


    clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 05.07.2007 at 12:19 am

    Finished travertine master bath

    posted by: thull on 08.03.2006 at 04:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

    Just wanted to show some pix of our finished bathroom. Here are the details:

    Tile: "Beige Classic Light" travertine from Floor & Decor; Dal Tile 2x2 unglazed porcelain on the floor in the shower
    Vanity/mirrors: MasterBath (HD) with Liberty/Knob Hill "perspective" knobs
    Sconces: I believe these are Hampton Bay, anyway, also purchased at HD
    Carpet tile: this only shows in the first photo, but it's Interface Flor
    Faucets/tub filler/handshower/accessories: Pegasus
    Sinks: Kohler Caxton undermount
    Granite: I'm embarassed to say this, but it's Giallo something-or-other. DW picked it out and it was a remnant- not sure I ever knew for sure.
    Toilet: Toto Ultimate
    Tub: Kohler K-1149 Proflex 72x42 oval
    Shower glass: Wilson Glass
    Shower gear: Hansgrohe Thermobalance III w/ showerhead and handshower; Interaktiv S trim
    Fan/heater (not pictured): Panasonic Whisperwarm

    I took these at night, partially b/c the baby was asleep, but also because the view out the window is crappy. The lighting is a bit off, and I was in a hurry.


    clipped on: 05.05.2007 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 05.05.2007 at 12:19 am

    RE: Shaker Cabinets . . crown molding?? vaulted Ceiling 2 (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: cotehele on 05.04.2007 at 04:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Another site:
    Period cabinets by Kennebec are beautiful. Shaker style has crown molding. This link is the showroom. Click on a piece to see it. Browse the period cabinetry section to see more.

    If I can offer reinforcement to you... I have a masters degree in historic preservation. Our house is 117 years old. I am hoping Kennebec will do my kitchen cabinets. I just sent my plans to Liz today. I am having shaker style and they will have crown molding!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Kennebec showroom


    clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 09:00 pm

    RE: Shaker Cabinets . . crown molding?? vaulted Ceiling (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: linley1 on 05.04.2007 at 04:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I say go for it. I have 15' vaulted ceilings and we added crown molding to the existing cabinetry because I thought it looked too stubby as it was. I think anything that adds height to the cabinetry will help balance out the volume created by the vaulted ceilings. Just keep the crown molding simple and I think it will add a nice finishing touch to your cabinets.

    If you look at cabinet manufacturer websites, I'm sure you can find many fine examples such as these to convince your dh.


    clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 08:58 pm