Clippings by docrck

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RE: Help needed for bathroom wall tile replacement project (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mongoct on 09.29.2012 at 01:56 pm in Remodeling Forum

Most definitely remove the tile and the existing drywall. No need to remove the tub or to try to remove any drywall that is behind the tub; between the tub and the wall.

Once you get down to the studs the better way would be what has been mentioned. Adding a 1/2" thick cement board like Durock or wonderboard, and then "painting on" a topical membrane like Hydroban on the cement board. Then tile right on the membrane.

Anyhow, that's a start. Come back with additional questions, someone here will help.

Your main concern with that route is how well the bottom edge of the cement board, or the thickness of the cement board, marches up with the thickness of the flange on the tub. You'd want the face of the cement board to be in plane, or stand slightly proud of, the face of the tub's flange. Then the tile can overhang the flange without the thickness of the flange interfering with the tile, or "pushing the tile out".

Sort of like this drawing. Just think of the Hydroban being where the Kerdi is in the drawing:

If your tub's flange is thicker than the cement board, then you can pad out the cement board by adding furring strips to the faces of the studs. This drawing shows furring strips in place, but it's not drawn specifically for your situation. The intent of the drawing is to simply show the furring strips between the cement board and the wall studs:


clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 10:02 am

RE: Marble Floor Tile Grout Questions... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.17.2011 at 12:56 pm in Bathrooms Forum

1. Should I use 1/16 or 1/8 grout size? Is it personal preference for looks or will one size help prevent chipping, lippage during installation, etc?

For the most part, it's personal preference. If you use 1/16" joints, use unsanded grout. Anything larger, sanded. The one thing that would be technical preference is that the larger joint would hide lippage alot more.

2. Based on the recommendation for #1, should I use sanded or unsanded grout on this polished marble tile?

Answered already. I don't care what anyone says about scratching the face. I've heard of it being done, but I've been doing this for many years, and yet to ever scratch the face of marble with sanded grout, even when it was a commercial installation, and we were using a buffing machine to grout. The ONLY thing that determines the type of grout is joint size. Of course, if you use Laticrete's Permacolor grout, you eliminate the need to make a choice because they use a finer sand in this series of grout, so it works in all size grout joints.

3. Seems like Polyblend Platinum would be a good color choice, agree?

Yes, I do. But if you choose to go the Permacolor route, check into Silver Shadow. it's just as good.

4. Do I need to seal the grout and tile? Before I grout? If so, sealer recommendation?

I'm not a big one for grout sealing just for the sake of grout sealing, but the stone really SHOULD be grouted, nd it wouldn't hurt the grout if it got sealed along WITH the stone. Any good solvent based impregnating sealer will work well.


in reference to marble tiles.

last line edited to be stone should really be SEALED

clipped on: 02.18.2012 at 06:57 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2012 at 06:59 pm

RE: Anyone have pix of metal supports for granite overhang? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: julirs on 09.23.2006 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is what mine look like. There are 2 under the breakfast bar and 3 under my outside bar.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


clipped on: 09.30.2006 at 11:43 am    last updated on: 09.30.2006 at 11:43 am