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How does this bid sound?

posted by: stretchad on 10.03.2009 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are leaning towards the following bid for our kitchen remodel:
Demo of cabs, soffit, ceiling, closet, plumbing, electric - $800
Supply & Install 7 can lights, switches, dimmers, install owner-supplied pendants - $2850
Supply/Install ceiling, drywall, mud, tape and finish per owner color selection - $1950
Remove existing floor, moldings, railings, - $800
Install cabinets - $2500
Cabinets Mid-continent w/ soft close - $10871
Supply & install Corian counters and sink (sink supplied by owner) - $3600
Plumbing Labor - $300
Permits and Dumpsters - $930
Remove carpet in LR/DR - $230
Remove Ceramic tile in entry - $900
800 Sq. Ft. prefinished 3" maple select, remove and reinstall base trim, and install transitions - $8200
Optional - Subfloor if needed $1975

Total - excluding Options - $34,731

Is there anything that's missing or that looks fishy? Overall this guy seems good, and a few coworkers have used him as well. Comes well recommended.

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clipped on: 10.03.2009 at 02:10 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2009 at 02:10 pm

RE: RE:How To Insert A Pic? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: celticmoon on 09.11.2007 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

Me again. Is this better?

How do I embed pictures in my post?
1. Open a free account at Photobucket.com or a similar 'storage site'.

2. Move pictures off your hard drive or camera by clicking 'download' and identifying the picture(s) you want to move from your camera or hard drive.

3. Once the pictures are there in Photobucket, do the Happydance part 1.

4. Select and resize a picture, by clicking on 'edit' above the picture, then 'resize', then 'website' for medium or 'message board' for large. (skip this step and your picture will post giant and make everyone reading the thread have to scroll to the right forever. Not cool.)

5. Under your picture, find and copy the HTML tag in the box marked HTML (looks like >ahref =...).

6. Back at your post, copy that tag right into the body of your message.

7. Check the preview to besure the picture is there and sized OK. Do the happy dance part 2.

Better?? Should I explain how to copy and paste? What would help make it clearer?

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 04:16 pm

RE: How To Insert A Pic? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: celticmoon on 09.10.2007 at 11:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Rats, Lynninnewmexico!! I wrote the FAQ picture posting instructions and thought they were clear. Apparently not.

How do I embed pictures in my post?
Your picture needs first to live somewhere on the Internet. Then you enter its address code in your message and the picture appears in your thread. Photobucket is one easy and widely used photo-storing site. You can open a free account at Photobucket.com. Then move pictures there from your digital camera or computer. Each then will have its own Internet address. To post the easy way, you:
First make your picture smaller by clicking on edit, then resize, select web size for a regular size and message board for larger to show more detail.
Copy the HTML tag below the picture (looks like >ahref =)
Paste that tag into your message.
Check the preview to be sure the picture is there and sized correctly (try refreshing if the resizing isnt showing.)

But you can help. Please, please, tell me what part doesn't make sense to you and I will change it on the FAQ. And just in case it was some other instructions, here's the link to the hopefully helpful solely-for-Kitchen-Forum FAQ.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Forum FAQ

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 04:15 pm

Best advice from this forum

posted by: justadncr on 07.14.2007 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was just thinking about what all I have learned from this forum and was trying to think of what was the most valuable advice.

I really think it was the advice to actually lay the kitchen out on the ground outside with all the measurements and walk around it to see if it felt right.
For me it was much better than plans on paper. I took my measurements and scraps of wood and laid them out in the various plans I had come up with.

My husband thought I was crazy standing out there pretending I was cooking and getting stuff out of the frig and such.

Of course I learned many, many more things but this helped the most.
What about you all?

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clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 11:58 pm

RE: Under Cabinet Lighting (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: amsunshine on 10.01.2007 at 12:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a couple photos of my WAC undercab fluorescent lighting. The last pic was taken when the kitchen was first done, so please excuse the lack of accessories! :-)

I don't think the lighting is ugly -- the light is warm. Also, I had only the 12 inch fixtures installed, which are 8 watts per fixture (my cabs measure 30, 27 and 18 inches, respectively). The light spreads, so I didn't see a need for getting longer fixtures for the wider cabinets -- I didn't want blindingly bright light -- just enough for task lighting and ambiance. We like it.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 01:02 am    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 01:02 am

A word to the wise - when you are all done...

posted by: loves2cook4six on 10.10.2007 at 12:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

get lien waivers, AND HAVE THEM AUTHENTICATED BY A LAWYER, from EVERY SINGLE person who worked in your house before you make your final payment.

And I say every single person, because a subcontractor may be busy and bring in someone else to do the work or may not pay one of his workers for work they did in your house and the lien would be against you.

This just saved my brother 1000's as someone tried to put a lien on his house not remembering they had signed the waiver 7 months ago.

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clipped on: 10.10.2007 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2007 at 11:32 pm

Marble backspash question (w/pic)

posted by: diy_dirk on 07.01.2007 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is a question for those of you with a marble backsplash (or Bill V.). This backsplash is on DW's list of "had to have".
1. What product did you seal the marble with?
2. What to expect with long term wear and maintenance?

Cheers,
DD
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 08.07.2007 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2007 at 10:35 pm

RE: My kirchen remodel is finished! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vjrnts on 07.21.2007 at 01:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

You go to the Finished Kitchens Blog and go to the FAQ, where it says:
________________________

FAQs

Q: How do I get my kitchen added to the Finished Kitchens blog?

A: Follow this procedure:

1. First you must be a member of GardenWeb [register here] and have participated in discussions in the Kitchen Forum.

2. Post your finished kitchen in the Kitchen Forum's gallery section for the membership. Please include a link to your photos and describe the details of your kitchen.

3. Fill out the Finished Kitchens Category Checklist. Submitting this form gives starpooh permission to archive your kitchen in the Finished Kitchens Blog. Your kitchen will be added to the "FKB" using several of your photos and the details from your gallery post.

4. (optional) Send an email to starpooh that gives permission to have your kitchen archived in the Finished Kitchens blog. You will receive a personal reply within a few days. :-)
______________________

There are links embedded in those instructions to help you do some of these things.

Here is a link that might be useful: FKB FAQ

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clipped on: 07.21.2007 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2007 at 02:29 pm

RE: Fossils in backsplash? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: pharaoh on 06.28.2007 at 07:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mystery,

I am here!

My thread about the fossil mural fell off the board (what a stupid thing).

Anyway, yes I did start with the idea of a fossil backsplash but the idea grew into a full fledged wall mural. we instead did a glass backsplash.

The fossil mural mimics the real planted aquarium on the left (set into the china cabinet)

I bought all my fossils on ebay from a select seller that i trust. I can give you the contact information.

I bought the background limestone locally. The top and bottom stone is split face slate.

I cut all the fossils to square them first and then put them together like a jigsaw puzzle. Then scribed the limestone around it. it was a lot of fun putting it together. I built the entire mural on the floor first (dry fit). then thinset it to cement board on the wall. All the fossils and stone were sealed prior to installation.

I grouted a the limestone but not the fossils. The slate is also left ungrouted.










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clipped on: 07.02.2007 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2007 at 09:26 pm

RE: Beautiful Backsplashes:Links to BreathTaking Pictures & Resou (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: femmelady on 06.25.2004 at 10:31 am in Kitchens Forum

We have the WZ copper patine tiles set in our tumbled onyx backsplash. Love these tiles!

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clipped on: 05.11.2007 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2007 at 09:08 pm

RE: Pictures finally! My kitchen ideas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: borngrace on 03.27.2007 at 03:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

What I did to finally get my pictures in to my messages whas create a photobucket account. Then you can either link to it by pasting the url in the helpful link space or you can copy the TAG from the photobucket picture (looks like the url but is the line under it and put the picture directly in the message

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clipped on: 05.10.2007 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2007 at 01:06 pm

RE: What is the purpose of a sink grid? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cat_mom on 04.29.2007 at 12:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

They also protect the bottom of the sink from serious dings and dents (or chips with enamel sinks), and just overall prevent smacking your dishes, glassware, etc, on the hard sink bottom--the grids have a little more "give" to them, so there's a subtle cushioning action going on if a glass tips over, or you clank the dishes around while putting them in the sink or while washing.

Generally, the lower the gauge, the stronger and less noisy the stainless steel (e.g. less "tinny" noise with the water running). You'd want something with a lower gauge than 20. Many here find 18 gauge to be perfectly fine, 16 gauge is just another step up. If you check out places that have different sinks, you can check for yourself.

Our sink is a 16 gauge Julien sink. It's pretty large; a single sink with zero radius corners. We had a drainage issue early on (probably a too shallow slope/pitch when the sink was formed--they are handmade), so they sent a rep out to check it and arranged for us to get a new sink. No problems with the company whatsoever. They couldn't have been more responsive or helpful. We're just waiting for our plumber to come back to make the switch. We love using the sink, and it is extremely solid and quiet.

Ours is from the urban edge collection; model # 3715; 30" X 17" X 10", plus the matching sink grid.

Here is a link that might be useful: Julien sinks

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clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 11:55 pm

RE: What kind of under cabinet lighting do you have? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: woodswell on 04.29.2007 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had hockey puck halogens - ripped those horrid things out and gave them away after a year of frustration. I could COOK things by leaving them on the counter under the halogens! The bulbs burned out often, were expensive and difficult to replace.

I replaced the halogens with fluorescents. The new electronic ballast fluorescents do not hum or flicker like the old ones. I buy color corrected bulbs so the light is whiter instead of the nasty color of the old fluorescents. They light the counter without heating it, the room and the cabinet above like the halogens did.

The fluorescent fixtures and bulbs are inexpensive, cost little to operate, and it's easy to change bulbs. They give more than enough light for my preparation area. Since I have them individually switched, I only have to light the areas I need and not the entire kitchen.

Now we're planning the lighting for the new house and it will be under cabinet fluorescents for the new house, too.

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clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 11:46 pm

RE: Crown molding Installation Question - Dynasty/Omega (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kompy on 04.30.2007 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Check out this link. It shows how to notch the frame for the crown. Scroll down near the end (Crown Touch).

Optional end treatments is a subject that some of the lesser experienced designers neglect to bring up.

Are your end panels plywood veneers or are they the matching vinyl. Look hard. Sometimes it's hard to tell at first glance. If it's wood, then I would go ahead and just notch the frame like the link describes below. If they're vinyl, then I would order the skins, as Live_wire suggested. Yes, you will have the "line", but even if this had been applied at the factory, you would still have that line.

Kompy

Here is a link that might be useful: Crown Molding & Recessed Sides

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clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 11:40 pm

RE: how to post pics from photobucket? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bmorepanic on 04.30.2007 at 08:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

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clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 11:13 pm

RE: 'The Sweeby Test' - anyone save it? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: starpooh on 04.23.2007 at 12:35 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm packrat.... have alot of old threads saved.
I can add this to the FKB - with Sweeby's permission, of course.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The Sweeby Test
Posted by Sweeby (My Page) on Fri, Dec 2, 05 at 15:11

A couple of recent posts have referred to something that has been jokingly referred to as 'the Sweeby test', and it's been suggested that a separate thread on that topic might be helpful.

The situation is this -- You're trying to decide between several different options (backsplash, flooring, island size or configuration, countertop material -- whatever), and all of the options being considered look good. Functional and financial considerations are certainly important, but among the thousands of highly functional good choices -- There are so many options to choose from! Which to choose and how to decide?

My suggestion was to try to figure out what you needed the element in question to contribute to your kitchen. To start by focusing on your kitchen as a whole, from a far-off hazy distance -- to wander off into your favorite kitchen fantasy and think about what it feels like, not what it looks like. (Your real kitchen please, not the one where Brad Pitt feeds you no-cal chocolates while George Clooney polishes the brass knobs on your Lacanche.) Then using mood words, describe what your dream kitchen feels like:

warm or cool, tranquil and soothing or energetic and vibrant? calm, happy, dramatic?
cozy or spacious? light and bright or dark and rich?
subtle tone-on-tone, boldly colorful, textured?, woody or painted?
modern, traditional, vintage, rustic, artsy, retro, Old World, Arts & Crafts, Tuscan?
elegant, casual? sleekly simple, elaborately detailed, or somewhere in between?
pristine or weathered, professional or homey?
whimsical, sophisticated, accessible, romantic? masculine or feminine?
How much zing? and where?

The list goes on and on...

Once you've identified the way you want your space to feel, then write it down as best you can. Try to freeze that feeling in words so you can refer back to it if you find yourself losing your vision or going off track.

Then look at where you are so far with the elements you have, and ask yourself if you're on the right course to create your dream? Odds are, at any given point in time, you'll be part way there, but that you'll need to go a little more this way, or a little more that way to move closer to your dream. Try to figure out what direction you need to go, what the missing element is that you need to add, (or just as important, if neutral background is what's needed) and write a 'Mission Statement' for your ideal backsplash / flooring / countertop:

"The perfect backsplash for my kitchen will add an enement of romance and whimsy, while not disrupting the calm and soothing tone-on-tone color scheme or diverting attention from my beautiful granite."
or
"My ideal countertops will provide the 'zing' my kitchen is missing right now, adding an element that is modern, rich, sophisticated and dramatic."

Then evaluate your potential choices against this Mission Statement. Odds are, one of your options will further your dreams while most of the others, though beautiful, take your kitchen down another path.

That's what I've got. What else can we add?

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clipped on: 04.23.2007 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2007 at 10:31 pm

RE: Knack for cleaning stainless (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: brunosonio on 04.23.2007 at 04:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I second Carolyn...I do exactly the same with SS Magic. I've found the trick is to get the metal really clean the first time around, then put a good coat of SS Magic on it. Cleaning then once a week with a light coat of SS Magic is even easier.

I read this online somewhere and it works....try cleaning the metal with a bit of Dawn in warm water, and then rinsing well. Buff dry, then apply the SS Magic liberally, letting it sit for at least 4 minutes per the directions. Then buff off with a clean dry cotton cloth or towel. Apply the product with the grain, then buff in light circles across the grain (this helps to spread the product even more evenly).

I even use it to get the splattered grease off of my SS backsplash and the SS parts of my Wolf rangetop...works better than Windex and never streaks.

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stainless steel magic.
clipped on: 04.23.2007 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2007 at 09:41 pm

RE: I am such a failure at this decorating! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: igloochic on 03.18.2007 at 06:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm doing shaker cabinets and I didn't like the bull edge. It's somehow just not comfortable with all of those square edges on the cabinets. I'd go with the eased (is that's what they call a pretty square edge). (I think that might be what mine are called but am too lazy to dig through the paperwork to figure it out). It's square with just a soft edging to keep from having sharp edges that chip. Visually it's pretty flat on the front.

I personally like a dark/light combination so that your "things" really pop. I have golden oak on the floor and because we're doing natural cherry, I'm going to have them refinished in a walnut tone. This balances out the dark countertops (Vulcan gold granite, HUGE wave of gold swirling through black and ivory...very bold, not for the faint of heart heh heh). I had wanted mahogany stained cherry but the "burgundy" base of the mahogany looked terrible with the gold.

So my suggestion is to go with a dark/light combination, which is so much prettier than having floor, cabinets and counters in the same tone! In my bath I'm using a vanilla marble slab countertop with cherry cabinets stained chocolate. Again a very rich combo. The floors will be a soft tan travertine. It's rich looking as well, but again with that dark/light combo thing.

If you want the granite you've selected to pop, consider that chocolate tone stain idea, and then do a light floor. It will be a very rich combo. I would only cautioin that this much richness is better for a very light kitchen (or well lighted kitchen). It might feel like too much in a dark room.

If you like that tigerwood floor, then go with the countertops you like, and get your light by going with a natural cherry color on the cabinets (the stain will turn out a soft golden hue of wood). Again a pretty light/dark mix.

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clipped on: 03.18.2007 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2007 at 08:05 pm

RE: Small Video Clip of Water Detector at Work (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: monicakm on 03.11.2007 at 07:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome everyone. With insurance companies getting worse and worse about paying for water damage, this could be a life saver. I bought mine at smarterhome.com. Amazon has a few brands (including this one). I bought a pkg of 5 for $39 and it inclues the 9volt batteries.
Monica

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clipped on: 03.12.2007 at 02:05 am    last updated on: 03.12.2007 at 02:05 am

RE: Kitchen sink: Which side for large bowl/disposal? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jamesk on 03.11.2007 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not to throw a curve here, but I can't stand double sinks. I think it's so much easier to have one large basin. Things like baking sheets and oven racks will fit in the sink so they can be washed and rinsed (the smaller basins in a double sink make this difficult or impossible). Any trimmings or debris that falls into the sink can simply be pushed into the disposer and down the drain it goes. I hate having to scoop scraps out of one basin and into the other to get them down the disposer.

Anyway, just my two cents.

James

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clipped on: 03.12.2007 at 01:13 am    last updated on: 03.12.2007 at 01:13 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: jgarner53 on 02.03.2007 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got my lights today! Of course, I realize now that in my haste, I misordered and need one more 24" bar (and they only sell in sets of two - d'oh! anyone want a 24" bar?)

They're much, much smaller than I'd imagined - fantastic! And nice and bright for such tiny things, too. I got them from LEDtronics.

So is the rule of thumb generally to place them at the front of the cabinet to light the workspace, and at the back to light the backsplash? I mostly want to light the counter for working.

Here's one 6-inch bar. In the bottom picture, it's still the 6-inch strip; perspective makes it seem longer.



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clipped on: 02.04.2007 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2007 at 11:43 pm

RE: undercabinet lighting (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: valinsv on 02.02.2007 at 11:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We are using fluorescent as we live in CA and subject to a 50 percent fluorescent quota in the kitchen. The slimest we could find were either T4's through Pegasus Associates (miscrofluorescent) and Juno's T5's. GE also makes a slimer T5 that people on this forum have raved about. What I liked about the Juno ones is that it is curved on one side. We chose the T5's as it seemed simplier to find replacement bulbs than order over the internet every time a bulb fused.

I plan to install mine towards the back with the light facing out to illuminate the counterspace and will not use a light rail. It you prefer to install to the front of the cabinet and have light illuminate your backsplash then, yes, I would think you would require a light rail.

I would suggest that you go to a lighting store with a display of the different under-cabinet llights and see what you like the best and what is least ubtrusive. I found most cabinet showrooms had displays of cabinets with flourescent undercabinet lights installed (many without light rails) and this helped also envision how it would look.

Here is a link that might be useful: Juno lights

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clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 11:29 pm

RE: undercabinet lighting (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: wonka27 on 02.02.2007 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if possible, but we added a approx 3/4" piece of molding to the bottom of the cabs as well. We then bought line voltage undercabs from Pegasus Associates. They just fit! You can see the switch on the one 18" tall wall cab in our hutch area and that's it. The bottom molding gives a "finished" look as well, which we love.

To find a light thin enough not to be seen may be tough!

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clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 11:27 pm

RE: Recessed lighting (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: valinsv on 02.02.2007 at 11:36 am in Kitchens Forum

When I consulted with my local lighting showroom, I was surprised that they did not recommend the Alzak trim since so many here on this forum have raved about it. Neither did my GC or electrician recommend it, instead suggesting the white baffles. They said people find clear Alzak's have too much glare when the light is off and the black does look like black holes in your ceiling. When I compared the different types at the lighting showroom, I actually agreed and instead chose the white baffle which looks like it "disappears" into the ceiling.

Obviously, others here love the alzaks, but I would just suggest you visit a lighting showroom where they different trims are installed and look at them both on and off to see whick look works for you.

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clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 11:17 pm

RE: Recessed lighting (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: shannonplus2 on 02.02.2007 at 09:21 am in Kitchens Forum

I think the thread that Jon1270 refers to has scrolled off. But I found the photos from that thread in the "clippings" page (linked below). Black Alzak is really great for glare reduction (see photos), but some people do not like the black-holes-in-the-ceiling effect when the lights are off--just a matter of personal taste. If you do not like the black holes, then Alzak trims also come in "clear" or "haze" which will reduce the glare too, but not as much as black, but will not have the black holes in the ceiling effect. Alzak trim is made by Juno. Halo also makes similar trim, but there is some disagreement over whether Halo specular trim is as good as Juno's. Hard to know.

Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of Kitchen with Black Alzak Trim Recessed Lights

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clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 11:15 pm

RE: water damage to my hw floor (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chiefneil on 01.12.2007 at 09:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Sorry to hear about your problem. FYI, you can get water detectors for about $15 - $20 that will sound an alarm when they get wet. I have one under each of my sinks and another in the laundry room.

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clipped on: 01.12.2007 at 05:02 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2007 at 05:02 pm