Clippings by divastyle

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My kitchen's facelift

posted by: linelle on 05.19.2012 at 03:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

My 20-year-old kitchen was showing its age. I have a modest home in a modest neighborhood and didn't want to spend a lot of money attempting to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. My builder's grade golden oak cabs were very orange and looking a little shabby. I wanted to get rid of the fluorescent ceiling fixture and replace the tile counters. My kitchen is just 10'x10' and G-shaped, but it's got a good existing layout, 9' ceilings, red oak floor, ample storage and natural light, so I aimed for a facelift. I live alone and don't have to share the kitchen with anyone (more a curse than a blessing).

Since I wanted to pay cash, I decided I was willing to spend $20K, and figured that would probably mean $25K. I ended up going $200 over $20K. I had a wonderful KD through whom I got my new cab doors, sink, faucet, counters and hardware. My GC turned out to be a PITA, but I got through it. Wouldn't ever hire him again. I painted the ceiling/walls myself (and promised myself a new iPad with what I saved). Got my own backsplash people.

I decided to keep costs down and get new appliances later on. However, I did get a new hood and fridge after everything else was done, not part of my original budget. I ended up liking the looks of my low-end Kenmore stove a lot more after everything else was done, so I'll live with it and my old DW for awhile.

At first I hated everything about my new kitchen: too much white, counters too mottled, faucet way too big, sink too deep. Too stark, not enough color. What had I done to my kitchen? I actually missed the orange oak! While I'd do a lot of things differently if I had it to do over, I've settled into it and actually like it now. This is probably the most updated kitchen in my entire neighborhood. Painted white cabinets haven't come this way yet so I'm actually on the bleeding edge. :p

Because I kept my old cabinet boxes, I have not one, not two, but three blind corners. I put infrequently used things in their deepest recesses and curse when I have to dig deep on occasion. I think of GW's disdain and pity for me, and it makes me laugh, in a good way.

I'm not a DIYer, but the stuff I truly love the most about my kitchen are the silly little things I did myself: Swapped out a 4" can and put in an LED, added Blum soft closers on all doors, made a lined valance from instructions I found on a blog, updated my message center, even the patching and painting I did myself. I envy all of you able to DIY. Still awaiting stools with saddle seats that I plan to paint BW Caliente.

Before:

IMG_1905

IMG_1920

IMG_1922

IMG_1950

After:

IMG_2078

IMG_2079

IMG_2082

IMG_2083

IMG_2090

Cabinet doors and drawer fronts: Decora paint-grade maple with MDF insets
Cabinet paint: BM Cloud White (very smelly, assume it isn't water-based)
Counters: Caesarstone Smoky Ash
Backsplash: Sonoma Creamy Crackle, platinum grout
MW: Sharp (Costco)
Fridge: KitchenAid
Sink: Dawn (Chinese, don't hate me)
Faucet: Hansgrohe Talis C
Walls: SW Antique White
Hardware: Top Knobs
UCL: Juno fluorescent (not on in these photos)
Pendants: Thomasville Santiago (ole!)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.30.2012 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2012 at 07:36 pm

Pictures of completed bathroom

posted by: dedtired on 08.30.2010 at 04:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi. I took some pictures of my new bathroom. It's still missing accessories (& a TP holder!) so it looks a bit bare.

Here are the details for those who may be interested:

Tub: Kohler Expanse (I adore this)
Handheld Showerhead: Grohe Relexa Rustica
All other fixtures: Kohler Kelston
Sink: Kohler Ladena undermount
Vanity: Bertch Morocco in Fawn (?)
Toilet: Kohler Memoirs Stately
Exhaust fan: Panasonic
Heated floor: EasyHeat
Subway & Floor tile: Vallelunga Villa Adriana in Calcatta (porcelain)
Glass tile: Crystal Stone Mosiac in Ivory
Shower Rod: Moen Curved

There were a few glitches along the way, but not many and I am very pleased with the result.

Tub / Shower area:
Tub Shower

Close up of niche and subways:
Niche

Vanity area with glass shelves to the right:
Vanity w shelves

Detail of backsplash and Kelston faucets:
Kelston Faucet & Backsplash

Kohler Ladena sink
Ladena Sink

Switches and dials! Thermostat for floor
Switches

Floor and my toes (I'm Not a Waitress by OPI):
Floor

If I can give you any more info, just ask. I got plenty of help by reading this forum. Thanks for looking!

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clipped on: 02.18.2012 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 02.18.2012 at 11:17 am

RE: The Infamous 'Colette' Bed (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: divastyle on 09.02.2011 at 07:36 am in Home Decorating Forum

Update! :)

Painted.
Started purchasing linens and accents.

Next stop? Draperies!

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clipped on: 02.18.2012 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 02.18.2012 at 11:12 am

RE: Completed 5 X 7 Hall bathroom (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: minac on 01.01.2010 at 11:35 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I forgot to post the product list for the bathroom. Here goes:

Floor Tile 12x24 Daltile Kimona Silk in Sprout
Shower Wall tile 4x8 - Daltile Modern Dimensions in Urban Putty
Shower glass accent - Daltile Modern Dimensions Glass Accents in Multibrown Terrasphere Accent
Sink - Kohler "Camber" K-2349
Faucet - Delta "Lahara" two handle mini-widespread
Toilet - Toto Eco Nexus
Shower handheld and slidebar - Grohe Movario 5 shower system
Tub spout - Grohe Talia Diverter Tub Spout
Tub - Kohler Hourglass 5' tub plus apron
Shower Door - Kohler Portrait K-702101-L
Countertop - Silestone - Blue Sahara
Fan - Panasonic Whisper FV08VQ3
Fan switch - Leviton Timer Switch 6260M
Paint - Benjamin Moore - Wedgewood Gray HC146
Train Rack - Pottery barn "Mercer"
Recessed Medicine Cabinet - Restoration Hardware Frameless Inset Medicine Cabinet
Glass accent tile around medicine cabinet - Sonoma Tile - Jade


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.12.2010 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 07.12.2010 at 10:28 am

RE: Completed 5 X 7 Hall bathroom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: minac on 12.30.2009 at 06:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I realized after the fact that the bathroom to the TUB is about 5 feet wide and 7 1/2 feet long. With the tub it is more like 5 X 9 1/2.

gibby3000 - I got the train rack from Pottery Barn. It is the Mercer Train Rack. The vertical cabinet is on both sides. The total height is 51 inches - 36 inches is the closed cabinet with glass front and 15 inches of open shelving. The cabinets are 12 inches wide and 9 inches deep. We have a recessed medicine cabinet (Restoration Hardware Frameless) in the middle. The outlet is on the right in the open shelving for things that need to charge and we have an outlet on the left next to the light switches.

lyban - we ordered the cabinets including the wall cabinets from a cabinet dealer that sold the Decora line. It was the two cabinets, plus the crown molding, and a soffit that goes between the cabinet above the light sconce.

Here is a closer picture
Closeup_sink_area

Bathroom_floor


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clipped on: 07.12.2010 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 07.12.2010 at 10:28 am

RE: Checklist For Granite Installation? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: divastyle on 07.25.2007 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

When deciding on a fabricator:
-  See the installer's work, especially the seams;
-  Talk about what they do to make the seam really tight and smooth.

Fabrication/Pre-Install
-  Post pictures for the TKOed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

Installation
-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKOed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 09:57 am    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 09:57 am

My Granite - Installed!

posted by: divastyle on 07.18.2007 at 09:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Ta-da! This is New Venetian Gold, 3 cm, Eased Edge.

This is pre-sink, pre-faucet holes, pre-seal. Er. Excuse the state of chaos with the kitchen cabinets.

Thanks for talking me into granite! I am very pleased with the outcome.

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clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 10:19 am

RE: How do your painted cabinets hold up? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: igloochic on 07.07.2007 at 11:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have painted cabinets many times using very high quality paint. That's the key to making your old cabinets look a little better, or making them look new. I also have strong feelings about brushes LOL I have strong feelings about almost everything :p

I like a dark painted cabinet like a deep chocolate brown, but white is also nice (I've done both) The chocolate looks rich, but you want to do that in a light kitchen. The white is nice, and really, its so easy to clean you don't need to worry about the fingerprints.

I also would have to comment on the "chiping and repainting". I've never touched up a cabinet, and some were painted five years or so before I moved. Again, that could be paint quality but also it could be an issue of a home without kids :oP

I'm going to cut and paste my "how to paint wood" thread with paint options you might consider. If you want white, just buy a white color (I'd suggest a soft white or cream...while you say white, white is not often used in it's most "white" form...too stark!) Also I have the primer noted in this thread tinted. It starts out white so leave it that way.

Primer, a cleaning with TSP and good paint are the keys. The rest is just silly work :)

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever! I did have the primer tinted, and tinted it's kind of light purple color LOL so it looks funny until you start putting more paint on. They hate tinting it, but make them do it anyhoo!
Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Primer
Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Paint
Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2007 at 06:31 am    last updated on: 07.08.2007 at 06:31 am