Clippings by dindinbaby

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Flash and Batt - Am I in trouble?

posted by: SueVa2013 on 11.28.2014 at 08:27 am in Building a Home Forum

Our builder offered us this upgrade and said he has done it in few houses before and it is a great thing to do. We took up this option as he really sang praises for this.

Now, Someone at work mentioned not to do this and after doing some research I am worried. Looks like there might be a moisture problem but my builder says that's only in extreme cold areas and we should be fine in Virginia.

This is a 2x6 construction. The wall profile from outside in is going to be: Hardiplank, Tyvek, OSB, 1 inch closed cell spray foam, kraft faced R19 batt, and Drywall.

The house has been foam sprayed but the fiberglass insulation and drywall has not been installed. Since we are worried he said we could do all spray foam and use open cell for the remaining portion to spend less. We have heard this can be stupendously expensive!

My internet research seems to indicate that he should be using unfaced batts!

What are your thoughts?


clipped on: 11.30.2014 at 06:06 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2014 at 06:07 pm

RE: Where's your butter? (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: Errant on 10.04.2014 at 09:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

I keep one stick out on the counter in a glass butter dish. I use a butter slicer on it while it's still cold.


Plate rack
clipped on: 10.05.2014 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2014 at 08:56 pm

RE: Hardi Board or Vinyl Siding (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: cookpr on 05.07.2008 at 11:02 pm in Building a Home Forum


Over 15 years, James Hardie ColorPlus Products will save on average $5,000 in painting costs compared to site painting unfinished James Hardie Products, and $10,000 in painting costs compared to wood siding. *

James Hardie Siding Products with ColorPlus Technology provide the #1 Return on Investment and superior siding value for remodeling projects according to Remodeling Magazine�s annual "Cost vs. Value Report" (2007).
Throughout the country, homeowners with James Hardie Siding save an average of 14% on their insurance compared to vinyl, which adds up to $263 on average each year. **

Eliminates the need for an additional contractor (painter), which adds on average 5 days to your project.
Painting requires optimal weather conditions, free of wind, rain, and humidity. With James Hardie with there is no waiting for the weather to finish your home.

*actual costs savings may vary. Based on average repainting cost of a 3,000 sq ft home.

**actual cost savings may vary. Based on average insurance costs of $1,900 a year.


clipped on: 10.05.2014 at 09:05 am    last updated on: 10.05.2014 at 09:06 am

RE: share your exterior finish pictures with me...please!?:) (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: am80 on 02.12.2014 at 08:59 pm in Building a Home Forum

Nichiha hands down. We are currently building and went with the pre-stained product by Carolina Colortones. Here are some preliminary pics. I'll add more once it's done.


clipped on: 09.14.2014 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2014 at 10:12 pm

RE: soapstone countertops- backsplash (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Swentastic on 08.22.2014 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I wouldn't say its dated, you just can't put a tile backsplash on top of it (just personal taste though, to me it looks like an afterthought).

Either backsplash made of soapstone, or just a backsplash of tile but not both.

 photo images2.jpeg

 photo 02-hbx-dark-brass-schoolhouse-lights-huh-1112-lgn.jpg

I think taller soapstone backsplashes are really stunning in old farm-style kitchens. And if you're married to tile, maybe you could do something like this?

 photo image3.jpg

What kind of damage do you think will happen to the back edge of your soapstone? I'd be more worried about the front edge....


clipped on: 08.23.2014 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2014 at 09:41 pm

RE: How do you accommodate your pets? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: desertsteph on 05.17.2010 at 11:46 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

cearbhaill - similar - they're built in somewhere like at the bottom of a cab, island etc - here's 2 from the kitchen forum -



mocassin - look at your silly birdies! is that one swinging upside down?


clipped on: 08.11.2014 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2014 at 09:24 pm

RE: is my foyer light too small for the space? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: northpolehome on 06.02.2014 at 09:08 pm in Building a Home Forum

I read in an article that the guideline is length + width of your room, so in your case, 10 + 8.5 = 18.5 for the width. And then 2-3 inches high per foot of ceiling, so if it a 10 ft ceiling, 20-30 inches high light fixture. Hope that helps!


clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 12:47 am

Tell me a clever or useful wiring thing you did

posted by: BelfastBound on 05.29.2014 at 08:51 am in Building a Home Forum

Initial Electrical walk through this weekend on our new construction. Have paddle switches and dimmers on the list but what else can I put in now that will make aging in place easier (have read ADA code) and life in the new house a joy to use? Thanks to all who take time out of their day to help us out.


clipped on: 05.29.2014 at 09:04 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2014 at 09:04 pm

One-Week Review of Jenn Air Pro Range (and Dishwasher)

posted by: scottacus on 12.10.2012 at 12:52 pm in Appliances Forum

Since there hasn't been too much discussion of the newer Jenn-Air pro-style ranges here, I will offer my one-week review of the 30" all-gas range (JGRP430WP). While that's not too much time, it's enough for me to get a feel for most of the features of the range and its overall performance.

I did a lot of research on this range before I bought it. First, this series of "pro-style" ranges is essentially the upgraded, Jenn-Air version of the KitchenAid "commercial style" range series. The dual-fuel ranges are very similar, with the addition of a color touchscreen and slight styling differences. The Jenn-Air ranges are also offered in all-gas, while the KitchenAid ranges are not. Importantly, the pro-style series is the only range series not still built on the old, Maytag-era Jenn-Air design -- so reliability data for this series is more likely to be similar to KitchenAid than other Jenn-Air ranges.

First, one of the main reasons I purchased this range is its value. The list price is $3899, which is not much less than similar models. However, with a 10% pre-Black Friday discount, free dishwasher, and installation rebate, the effective price is much less (as long as you need a new dishwasher). In my case the effecitve price was less than $2500, which is very good for a range in this class.

Now, onto the experience. This is a very attractive range, with a mix of Viking/Wolf style and more modern looks. The fit and finish is overall very good, with heavy-duty construction, hefty knobs that turn very smoothly, oven door that opens/closes nicely, and nice burner grates. The only gripe I have is that there is a very small ding in one edge of the stainless steel around the glass control pad. It's barely noticeable, but it is there.

The touchscreen controls are less gimmicky than I thought. They're certainly much less confusing than many other electronic control ovens, and they are generally well executed. For example, when a cook timer goes off on the oven, a button appears to allow you to put the oven in keep warm mode with one touch. The glass is very sensitive like an iPhone (maybe even more so).

The burners perform well, boiling water quickly (4 quarts in I think about 7 minutes) and the simmer burner goes pretty low. I have had no issues with the igniters continuing to click after the gas lights. I notice that like Dacor, the flames directly under the grates are smaller to protect the grate finish. The black porcelain top cleans up easily.

I have been pleased with the oven, which is far better than the non-convection Frigidaire it is replacing (a range we disliked since we moved into our current home) and seems to be at least as good as the Viking 30" in our last home. Conventional and convection baking both are quite even with good temperature control. The electric convection element and 3 lights are nice touches. The only drawback to the oven is that a cooling fan runs whenever the oven is on (convention or not), presumably to protect the circruitry from overheating. It's not too loud, but it isn't whisper-quiet either.

Overall we are very happy with this range and think is is well worth the money.

The range also came with a free dishwasher (JDB8200AWP), which is a higher-end Whirlpool/KitchenAid dishwasher. It's typical of a Whirlpool Corp dishwasher (and I've had good results with them). Quiet and cleans well. I have been using the Finish tabs without issue.


clipped on: 05.27.2014 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 05.27.2014 at 09:14 am

RE: hot water on demand systems? good or not? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: csuruki on 04.30.2014 at 04:18 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hot water recirculating pumps are very good. The on demand ones are the most efficient as there is no unnecessary energy waste during the times that hot water is not needed. Look into the Demand Hot Water Pumps as they are proven and have been tested by the DOE. They cost about $1.00/year in electricity to run as they only run when hot water is needed by the user. You push a button and the pump recirculates the cold water back to the water heater while drawing the hot water from the water heater to the pump location. When the pump feels a 6 degree water temperature increase, it shuts off so there is no hot water in the cold water line. The C1-100 is a pump that will service a home that is under 3,000 sqft. These work with either conventional or tankless water heaters and is the only one that doesn't void the tankless water heater warranty.


clipped on: 05.03.2014 at 09:43 am    last updated on: 05.03.2014 at 09:43 am

Trends to avoid

posted by: Texas_Gem on 04.08.2014 at 05:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just read this article and I found it interesting. I was curious what everyone here thinks, do you agree with some or all of these? None of them?

Here is a link that might be useful: 8 trends to avoid


clipped on: 04.25.2014 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 04.25.2014 at 11:00 am

Help tile has hairline cracks!

posted by: kali2024 on 04.05.2014 at 03:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Any experts out there that can tell why the chair rail trim developed cracks? Not all just some- basically following the length of the tile piece. 3 out about 30 so far. Thanks in advance.


clipped on: 04.24.2014 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2014 at 08:38 pm

One bath down, one to go -- Vintage inspired guest bath remodel

posted by: kjo_tx on 12.14.2013 at 03:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hey y'all! I'm a long-time lurker on GardenWeb and finally decided to get my act together and start posting. Me and my folks (God bless them!) are renovating and adding on to my Queen Anne Bungalow which was in really sorry shape when I bought it. I'll post some pictures of the exterior changes over at the Old House forum and link them together.

We've been working on the project for just under 11 months now which included a basically back to "studs" remodel where we've done all new plumbing, electrical, floors (unfort the original hardwoods were too far gone to refinish with nail head and the tongues all exposed) etc, but the first fully complete project was the guest bath! The house was an original 2/1 which we're adding on to to make a 3/2. The bath was in such miserable shape (indicative of the whole house) that the only thing holding the toilet up was the sewer pipe! Budget was around 3.5-5K and we kept right at budget.

Worst part of this project: Running to Home Depot every time we needed to pee! (One bath house)

So here's some reveal pictures...

Before and Progress:

Best way to remove the tub? Sawzall!

The room is already starting to look bigger!

That's not an optical illusion, yet the toilet is slanted... why?

Oh that's why! Who needs a subfloor or floor when the sewer pipe can hold the toilet up? We repaired all rot and damage and installed subfloor properly

Priming tongue and groove wainscotting

Starting to come together

Kerdi and Ditra oh my!

Floor in, shower wall tile going up

Salvaged dentil crown from another 100+ yr home that was demolished, love the detail in each piece

I enjoy tiling, especially the final details

Installing the glass



Looking into the bathroom


Vanity Wall

Toe and Groove 1x6 Pine Wainscotting

Towel Hooks - Restoration Hardware (Total Splurge but they bring together the glass knobs we have scattered around the rest of the house so well!)

Original 100+ yr window and casing. The crown at the top of the room came from a salvage yard in town and each dentil is an individual piece. Pain to paint, love the detail.

Original casing, new solid core MDF doors -- Every door in the house was completely destroyed and un-salvageable.

Salvaged crown moulding - it's got great character!

Porcelain floors - great marble look-alike, at 1/4th of the price and easier maintenance!

Frameless shower with glass tile floor

Glass tile floor - Tile was stock tile from Lowe's

Bathroom in relation to the rest of the house

Pottery barn swivel mirror... we needed something to go above the wainscot top rail.

Depth of the wainscot top rail... led to some issues finding the light and mirror, but looks so wonderful in the end!

Shower walls - Porcelain marble-look-a-like 12"x24" tiles, carrera marble border and white glass subway. Floor tiles and wall tiles all from Floor and Decor and under $3/sq ft.

(Preview of Kitchen to come.... still a work in progress on half of the kitchen in the new addition...)

Vanity: 45" Allen + Roth vanity from Lowe's with pre-installed sink and marble top
Faucet: $100 faucet from Overstock... can't remember which one
Mirror: Pottery Barn Kensington Wide Pivot Mirror
Light: Seagull light - don't remember the specific - ~$120 and chosen because it had a longer reach from the wall.
Floor Tile: Floor and Decor Carrara look-a-like, I think similar to this:
Wall Tile: Floor and Decor, similar to this:
Shower Floor: Lowes GLSEASHELLMOS mosaic

I'm looking forward to start the master bath and will keep everyone update was it progresses!


clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 11:56 pm

RE: Please help with faucets/ shower trims selections (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: DreamingoftheUP on 02.04.2014 at 09:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

A number of posts below, someone posted a response with this link which contains a lot of info on faucets, types, brands, quality, etc. Link below is for the first part. Link to the second part is at the bottom of the first page.

Here is a link that might be useful: Faucet info and reviews


clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 11:43 pm

RE: Am I crazy to like plain glossy 4" tile? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 02.25.2014 at 10:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum


4"tile on the floor in shower
clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 10:31 pm

RE: Things you thought of after your home was built (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: lori_inthenw on 02.28.2014 at 05:34 pm in Building a Home Forum

This one is more in the category of "close call," but the mention of pocket doors made me think of it. We have a set of double pocket doors into the tv room. It seemed like there was no good place to put the light switch because of the pockets. We were looking into complicated options that could be remotely controlled, then found out there are very "flat" boxes for places like that.

Wanted to mention it because I still read here that a big disadvantage of pocket doors is no place for adjacent switches.


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 11:46 pm

RE: Things you thought of after your home was built (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: chicagoans on 02.28.2014 at 05:56 pm in Building a Home Forum

Haven't done a new build, but did a big addition that included nearly a whole house reno. One thing that I wish I had known to check ahead of time is the placement of HVAC vents.

Two of the vents in our great room are directly under windows; if the drapes for those windows are closed, the air fills up behind the drapes rather than coming right out into the room.

There's a HVAC vent right over my side of the bed. I HATE it! The AC blows right on my face, so it's hard to sleep with the AC on in the summer. I'm sure that vent could have been placed elsewhere, but I didn't think about it.

Luckily those vent issues aren't horrible. A friend of mine bought a spec house, and there's a vent in the floor right in front of the kitchen sink. How stupid is that? Who wants to stand on a vent when you're working at the sink?


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 11:45 pm

RE: Backlit mirrors just installed - sneek peek (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rjr220 on 05.21.2013 at 07:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Enduring gave the initial guidance and I followed her lead. My nephew is very talented and made 1 inch thick platforms that the mirrors are mounted on. The superbright LED's from are mounted on the platform, and the wiring goes into a "path" that he routed to the center of the platform for the electric. The mirrors are mounted to the wall with OOK Hangman hardware -- that way they can come off of the walls if needed.
Counter should be installed Friday and then the rest should come together relatively quickly. I hope.


clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 11:43 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: shanghaimom on 03.18.2013 at 09:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Good idea, Hoboken. I don't even know how to find the gallery for bathrooms....
First,bath/laundry room, then powder room. Coming soon: master bath! House built in 1889.

 photo DSC_1170.jpg photo DSC_0961.jpgpowder room photo kitchen048.jpg


clipped on: 01.15.2014 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2014 at 09:53 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: enduring on 04.05.2013 at 07:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Ok, I'm a late comer, but I wanted to actually do my "Reveal" before I posted the reveal.

I have yet to make my roman shade for the window, other than that I'm DONE!

I have a huge list of details so I will link to my "Reveal.." thread I posted today. See below for the link.

entry to bathroom photo IMG_3924_zps24daa8f0.jpg

 photo IMG_3911_zps7b1785f9.jpg

Toto Promenade toilet with Inax advanced toilet seat photo IMG_3871_zps3937c523.jpg

tower pull out photo IMG_3917_zps381ee201.jpg

Click on the image below to take you to "Story" in Photobucket:
Bathroom Reveal East 2013

Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom Reveal


clipped on: 01.15.2014 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2014 at 09:32 pm

RE: Replacing front door - Any suggestions on type or style? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nini804 on 07.17.2013 at 02:53 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We have double doors with 3/4 glass and a transom. I adore the light, absolutely adore it. The door panes are seedy glass, it obscures the view just enough, I think. They are mahogany.

From the outside:
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

From the inside:
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 11:22 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 11:22 pm

Make-up vanity

posted by: treasuretheday on 03.10.2013 at 11:51 am in Bathrooms Forum

I came across this picture of a make up vanity today on houzz and thought that it was so well designed that I'd share for anyone searching for ideas for a make up table.

Here's a wider view of the space...

This post was edited by treasuretheday on Sun, Mar 10, 13 at 12:03


clipped on: 12.05.2013 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2013 at 11:47 pm

RE: Woodwork & window questions (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: arlosmom on 02.21.2009 at 01:14 pm in Old House Forum

Just food for thought...our A&C house has plate rails in the dining room. I don't think the height would work with the wallpaper friezes you mentioned, but I always liked the heft and think the chunky details are nice.



clipped on: 12.05.2013 at 07:55 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2013 at 07:55 pm

Woodwork & window questions

posted by: kerrygw on 02.19.2009 at 02:31 pm in Old House Forum


We're renovating a 1906 Arts & Crafts house, and trying to figure out some woodwork/trim issues. The current house is in pretty poor shape aesthetically - the vast majority of the woodwork has been painted over numerous times and banged up pretty well. We are also doing an addition to the house that we would like to mesh as well as possible with the original house. And on top of that, we are redoing the heating and electrical systems, so walls (and the trim that is with them) will be ripped up all over the place, and the windows are being replaced as well. (Not our preference, but in this case because of significant damage and lead paint issues, it was the best choice.)

All of that said, we are looking to replace the existing woodwork on the 1st floor with new stained wood trim. The 2nd floor will be patched and repaired (and trimmed where necessary) but it will be painted and thus is not a big issue at the moment. On the 1st floor, we are putting in Marvin windows with pine sashes, and since we want to stain all the woodwork, one person we've talked to is recommending to put in new pine woodwork. But since we're staining it I'm hesitant to use pine for all the woodwork - I thought it wasn't great for staining? But if we put in another wood, will it be difficult to match with the windows? Here are some pictures of the few areas that are not currently painted (inside of the closet & the staircase - a total mess but there is a lot of work going on at the moment). Is that oak or another kind of wood? I'd like to keep it as true to the original house as possible but within reason. Any thoughts/experience/ideas would be greatly appreciated!


clipped on: 12.05.2013 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2013 at 07:47 pm