Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

Methodology:
- Tried to standardize on a 24D x 48W blind cabinet
- Lazy susan & corner drawers required 36 x 36 corner cabinet
Total usable space is calculated based on the interior space of the drawer/pullout
Usable space given is PER TIER and calculated based on the footprint of the box
Multiply usable space by number of tiers/drawers for total storage area
Drawers and pullouts are 22” deep minus 5/8” drawer front/back
Drawer widths are box width minus 3/4” box sides, 1/2” drawer slide clearances, and 5/8” drawer sides
- Your cabinet builder’s specs may vary slightly from my numbers

Shelves & Non Corner Drawers
Plain shelves (not shown) maximize space use (88% of footprint due to plywood box sides and back) but minimize accessibility. The gold standard is drawers (see 'Non Corner'), balancing space utilization and accessibility (only 73% of footprint due to hardware and clearances), but obviously, two drawer stacks are NOT an option for a corner. Space efficiency should be compared to the drawer 'gold standard' rather than plain shelves which are a terrible idea for any deep cabinet, especially corner cabinets!

Corner Drawer
The corner drawer solution (53% of footprint, 73% of non-corner drawers) does have LARGE dead dead space in both corners, and awkward angles all over the drawers. The pluses are: you can store a lot of stuff by having 4 drawers (2728 sq in), and you can have access to ALL of your stuff. 4 corner drawers offer 81% of two 24W drawer stacks, but takes up 12.5% more floor space.

Super Susan
The super susan (60% of footprint, 82% of non-corner drawers). It’s impractical to do more than 2 tiers, and it lacks a certain sex appeal, and stuff can fall off and get lost in the dead space areas. There’s a maximized version of the Super Susan called the Korner King, which looks like it stores a LOT of crap, but it looks like a Frankenstein’s cabinet, an esthetic purist’s nightmare. For those not offended by its looks, functionally it has a lot of broken up pieces of storage of which only about 10-40% of your stuff is accessible at a time.

Custom Corner
My 'custom corner' (narrow pullout, wide side slide), my choice, has the same usable space as drawers per tier (73% of footprint), but a lot less accessibility due to the limitations the corner imposes. I chose it because while we have lots of storage space, I still wasn’t ready to seal off the corner. The large sideways slideout is perfect for items like our 60 and 100 qt pots that wouldn’t fit in drawers anyway (we occasionally cook for LARGE groups). The main pullout would have 3 tiers for more often-accessed items, for a total of 1494 sq in (514 s.i. x 1 full height slideout for big pots, 327 s.i. x 3 for front pullout), a decent amount of storage including a very large, full height side-slide. 2 L + 3 S tiers would give 2009 s.i.

Dead Corner
The simplest corner solution, the 'dead corner,' only gives 29% of the footprint in storage, or 40% of the storage of 48' of non-corner drawers. But if you use a 4-drawer stack, you get a lot of functional storage - 1348 sq in, though no room for tall/large items.

Magic Corner
Hafele’s Magic Corner offers that WOW factor when you see it gleaming and gliding in and out with soft-close. But it’s only 536 s.i. per tier (49% of footprint, 67% of non-corner drawers), 1072 total s.i. It could store more, but it’s designed to fit in more applications (21D cabinets, narrower cabinets), and therefore has a lot of dead space.

Thoughts
- Unlike straight base cabinets where there’s clear consensus that drawers are best, corners are ALL about limitations and compromise (and debate, with everyone having their own favorite corner solution that fits their needs)
- Drawers offer the greatest accessibility, and by using 3 or 4 drawers, you quickly make up for less space efficiency over 2-tier solutions. For example, even though the dead corner only offers 29% of the footprint of storage per tier, multiply that by 4 drawers = 1348 sq in, more than the Magic Corner’s 1072 s.i. and almost as much as the Super Susan’s 1550 s.i. with 144 s.i. smaller footprint. Despite the large dead spaces, the Corner Drawer offers a LOT of potential storage, up to 2728 s.i. with 4 drawers, though losing large item capability.
As impressive as the 'Magic Corner' solutions are to demo (I too “ooooh”ed at first), they are extremely costly (about $900 and up after hardware and baskets) and optimized to fit in shallower cabinets so have more dead space than other solutions.
My custom corner maximizes total use of the footprint area and also maximizes large and bulky item storage with relatively limited access to the inside corner area, while minimizing cost.
- As with marriage, there is no perfect match, only great or poor fits for your needs. If you’re unhappy with your corner solution, either ignore the limitations or find a better solution. Just don’t expect perfection!

Here is a link that might be useful: Korner King - not for me, might be right for you?

Anyway, one change that we've been working on since the end of December is a banquette and new table. Our dining space in the kitchen was not large enough to fit our table for 6.

We took down a half wall and rebuilt it, angling it 2 ft into our family room area. Then dh built a banquette - it's not a straight bench, but it's not quite a full "L" either - we decided to respect the french door we have and not build in front of it. ;-)

He still needs to make the drawer that will go under the long side of the banquette.

I made the upholstered cushions for the banquette. I got the foam online (much better quality than Joann's and MUCH less $$), glued it to luan, wrapped it in batting and used curtain material from ikea. The cushions are held in place with velcro. Jury is still out on that.

The table is one of those wide ikea numerar countertops. We cut it to size (63 x 39) and angled a few corners for ease of use and design. Dh also routed the edges. Then I stained and waterloxed it. It sits on 2 cast iron pedestals. (when we eventually redo the cabinets/counters, I might switch out the top for the counter surface)

Without further ado, here are a few pictures of the progress. We love it, the kids are fully enjoying it and my kitchen looks like it at least 2 times the size with the space saved by the banquette (plus the stealing of the square footage from the family room).

We also switched out and moved over the kitchen light - for the first time since we moved here, the light is centered over a table ;-)

So I got the Stonetech Revitalizer that the stone guy recommended as the "Cadillac" of cleaners and I got the Method that lots of GWers seem to like (since I'd prefer a less-toxic solution). The Stonetech seemed kind of waxy and a little stinky but did a decent job. The Method was really smelly/flowery but did a decent job (though I think the smell hung around even longer than the toxic junk).

However, neither one of these says anything about being antibacterial.

So, I wipe down the counters with a wet sponge after cooking. But what about when I'm cooking raw meat/chicken/etc. and I want to make sure the counters aren't icky still? What should I use then that's safe for the sealer, easy to apply and not killer to the humans in the house?

Seems like maybe the Stonetech or Method are more of a sometimes thing? Like every few days for sparkling up, but not the I-just-cooked-dinner and the kitchen's a mess kind of stuff, right?

Oh, and I should mention that I have Brushed Cambrian Black so it's a semi-matte type of finish.

I miss my vinegar (part of the reason I was so tempted by soapstone).

Help!

What is important is the quality and density of the foam, and making sure that the foam you use is wrapped in dacron batting for additional durability and softness. The dacron wrap protects the foam from excessive wear caused by people sliding onto or sitting and moving on the cushion, both movements that could cause foam to crumble if not properly protected. The dacron also helps with soil resistance.

And, I will say, my prices are no where close to being as high as what jeannieo1�s decorator wanted to charge for a standard window seat.

http://www.arhaus.com/furniture/dining-room-furniture/bar-and-counter-stools/30cad24ok2/ it's called the cadence oak stool.

kitchen

In the kitchen area, our cabs are yellow lowers with marble counters, white uppers; white island with walnut butcher block. Floors are wood stained Provincial.

Now that we got rid of existing DR furniture we don't have to stick to certain colors table and cabinetry. We are planning 4 feet of cabinetry on either side of banquette bench/table. SO, wondering if I should do a wood colored cabinetry, or try white or something else? The woodwork/molding is white.

A few inspiration photos even though you've probably seen them:

walnut top:

floor:

this light:

with this fabric & backsplash:

I went to Arhaus Furniture today and liked a few things. My favorite is this COPPER top table. It felt great and has some special finish (wax?). They said it's pretty indestructible. I wondered if it would work with my fancy cottage look?
I'd get a rectangle.

Another is the Kensington which is really cool but I'm afraid too rustic?? My GC has this table with a glass top on it. I think it's great b/c the kids couldn't ruin in too much, but I think spills inside those nooks and crannies would be awful.

Then there's a Tuscany one that comes in different finishes...

What do you think? Other suggestions? Oh, and what color cabinetry?

(I LOVE THE COPPER TABLE : )

cabinets

We've since survived corporate downsizing ('adjusting to scale' was the term they used, lol!) and are settling into life here in the northeast. However, none of the kitchen designers seem able to actually tell us whether their cabinets are somewhere in the middle of mid-range. I did see a list of cabinet rankings here on GW, but it is outdated. I am curious to know whether anyone has experience with any of these cabinets:

Shiloh
Candlelight
Omega/Dynasty
Medallion
Brookhaven
Wellborn Forest
Woodland

We're trying to stay beneath the Plain and Fancy priceline, but at the same time, it's difficult to assess where these other cabinets rank in terms of overall quality, including all wood construction, minimal add-on fees for soft glide close, stain, etc. and overall appearance. Both of the KD's we have seen seem to be pushing cabinets we are not so keen on: Showplace, KraftMaid, Narrow River, as well as Wellborn Forest and Woodland. We are willing to pay for quality, but I think they are being pressured to promote whatever is 'on sale' right now. Hence, they are really waving the flags for Showplace, Wellborn Forest and Woodland. We'd love to be wrong about this ... any input is gratefully accepted!

Backsplash - Grazia Rixi Crema
Accent row - Beach
Accent tiles - Impulse deco
Grout Tek Antique white

South and West wall

East Wall

East wall close up

South wall - cooktop area

It is really hard to take pictures due to the windows in the area - but hopefully when totally done, we will have a full set of good pictures!

Thanks for all of your inspirations - especially CKGM and Chitown!

kitchen

I've selected both absolute black and volcano granite for the kitchen and am trying to come up with backsplash ideas that will complement both, since the volcano is a dramatic granite with a lot of movement. (I don't have a good photo from the granite yard, but it resembles Magma Gold on the Granite Guru's site)

I like the Tatrum tiles by Sonoma Tilemakers and am thinking of using the black tile in a simple liner with possibly a small bronze accent tile - I am stuck on the field tile, which I think should be simple so not to compete with the granite. I am not fond of tumbled marble, but have found a few rustic looking tiles that I like the look of - Seneca, Motawi, and Trikeenan. I'd like to find other options and venders with this kind of look, that might be a little more cost-effective on the already stretched budget.

Any advice or links much appreciated. I don't post much because I have to remember my password to log in - but read often and have learned so much that we have put to use in making choices. Thanks in advance

DETAILS:
Cabinets: Eudora Frameless
Island countertop: White Macaubus Quartzite
Perimeter countertop: Leathered Absolute Black Granite
Sink: Kohler Riverby Cast Iron
Faucet: Moen Woodmere in Stainless
Hardware on solid doors/drawers: Amerock Highland Ridge in polished nickel
Glass knobs and Bin Pulls in polished nickel: Van Dyke's
Range & Dishwasher: Thermador
Refrigerator: Kitchenaid Pro
Refrigerator Drawers: Electrolux
Sharp Microwave Drawer

Close up of the tile. It's hard to get an accurate color since it's so glossy. It's more blue/green than portrayed in pics:

I was standing on a chair when I took this. I feel like it makes the dining table look like toy furniture! Ha!

Behold...the unfinished bar and the fan with no blades. We live in the deep south...no judging the fan! Behind those closed doors lies my DH's very unfinished man cave.

And you'd know that the day after I took these, my new sofa cushion inserts came in. It's all fluffy and new looking again. Oh well!

The Pantry is actually the same color as the entry you see right past the range wall in the kitchen (BM Gray Wisp). But I didn't use a flash so it looks funky here:

Of course the people count and are the most important...nothing makes guests feel more comfortable than a host and hostess who are also comfortable...they set the tone for the household and guest behavior....think silver tea set vs. coffee mugs. But space too can be as welcoming or off putting.... and isn't the point of designing beautiful spaces to have a place to share with others?

When I first sat down with my architect, he asked me what kind of house I wanted. Instead of saying colonial or cape as he expected, I told him I want a house that is adorable. I want a house that, when people saw the outside said, gee I wonder what it looks like on the inside. I think we got what we wanted as I've actually had strangers stop and tell me how much they like the house and actually ask if they can see the inside!

(The pic was during landscaping...it's finished now.)

Part of what makes a home welcoming is its scale. When we were designing our new home ... we spent 7 years at it... we looked at hundreds of homes, new homes, showhouses, furnished model homes... and for us it was all about cozy. Many of these new homes had huge spaces in them....3 story high foyers...tremendous vaults on their ceilings, giant bedrooms and bathrooms. Grand, impressive spaces. But then how do you decorate them? Decorating them suddenly becomes about bringing the room back into human scale. And even at that, many well decorated rooms continued to feel like public spaces...like hotel lobbies, not homes.

Of course, you have the space you have so perhaps this answer isn't the most helpful, except for try for cozy. If your space isn't cozy, use decorating to make it so. (Interestingly the picture francoise posted does not look inviting to me at all, but cold and uninviting....I'd be afraid to mess up that white sofa!)

Cozy and warm to me are about colors. Natural wood is warm. Gold and yellow tones are warm. Balance and scale are comforting. Balance doesn't necessarily mean symmetrical, but equal massing.

Our library isn't symmetrical, but has balance of weight with focal point of the fireplace. Focal points make rooms feel better...they give the eye a place to go. The room is full of gold tones plus plums and greens for a very rich color palette which adds to the warmth. The art work reflects the warm tones in the room. Painting ceilings adds warmth to a space...don't leave that white blanket above everything, unless it's intentional.

Lighting is also essential to warming up a space. We have multiple points of light throughout the room. Highlighting the drapes, the bookcases, the art...

Where we do have volume in the room, we have intentionally softened it. So, for example, the dining room has a vaulted ceiling, but it is a barrel vault which feels much cozier. (Future plan is to paint it like a sunset sky....but haven't gotten there yet...)

We also shared color palettes between the library and the dining room as they are open to each other. The wall color in the DR is used on the library ceiling. The ceiling color in the library is used on the walls in the foyer. The berry tones in the DR are deepened to a plum in the library.

We used lighting in the DR to highlight the historic William Morris wallpaper panels which set the color palette for the room, but echo the tones in the library.

Here is another example of using decorating to soften and make the space cozier. This is DH's study with a very high vault to accommodate the large window on the front of the house. To visually bring the ceiling down, we painted it a dark taupe color.

So I'd say, cozy, warmth, balance, space to welcome people into, color, light, focal points, massing and scale all work together to make a space that brings people in and makes them want to stay.

But of course, an empty house, no matter how lovely, is still an empty house...it's people who make the house a home.

I think it needs to coordinate somehow with our stone fireplace since you can see it from the kitchen.

My husband wants to do a focal point above the sink. Any suggestions?

Westiegirl, from your pic, I can't tell if there's only metal directly above the range surface, but if any wood part is above that range surface, you need to address that ASAP.

Countertop and color of cabinets

Faucet - might clash with faucet

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

• Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

  Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.



• Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.


• Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.
  • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
  
  
  • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
  
  
  • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
  
  
  • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.
  
  

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

• To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)


• Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.


• Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied


• Chips: Using something very hard & metal�hit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks

Measuring:

• Before the templaters get there...
  
  • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
  
  
  • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
  
  
  • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
  
  
  • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
  
  
  • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
  
  
  • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter
  
  
• If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them


• Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.


• Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

  Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement�and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!



• Factors determining seam placement:


• The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)


• Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available


• Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.


• Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.


• Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -


• Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.


• Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.


• Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece


• Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
  Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

Installation:

• Seams:
  

  One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

  
  
  • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
    
    • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
    
    
    • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
    
    
    • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
    
    
    • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
    
    
    • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
    
    
    • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
    
    
    • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

• Checklist:
  
  • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
  
  
  • Make sure the seams are butted tight
  
  
  • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks
  
  
  • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
  
  
  • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
  
  
  • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
  
  
  • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
  
  
  • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
  
  
  • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
  
  
  • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
  
  
  • Check for chips. These can be filled.
  
  
  • Make sure the top drawers open & close
  
  
  • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
  
  
  • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
  
  
  • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
  
  
  • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
    
    • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
    
    
    • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
    
    
    • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
    
    
    • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
    
    
    • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.
    
    
  • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
  
  
  • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

• More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
  If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam


• Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA


• When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.


• Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB


• Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!


• When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see


• Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)


• Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust


• If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.


• Suggested Prep for Installation:
  
  • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
  
  
  • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
  
  
  • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
  
  
  • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
  
  
  • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides
  
  
• Countertop Support:


• If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop


• If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required


• If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:


• Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino


• i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

You've all done amazing jobs!

I have a link to an interesting soapstone tile project--I hope it's OK to add it:

Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Soapstone Tile Installation

I am having my granite fabricated on Monday so I still have until then to change my mind. I originally wanted ogee bullnose, but my fabricator tells me that kind of edge profile is out of style. He tells me that most of his customers are going with a large beveled edge profile.

My kitchen is going to be fairly modern with a bit of rustic charm in the cabinets. I am getting a stainless Viking range, vent hood, microwave and a stainless backsplash behind the range. The rest of the backsplash is going to be a mix of 1"x2" glass subway tiles with a few natural stone tiles. Modern, sleek stainless steel apron front sink. Tile floor.

My questions:

1. For those of you who have natural stone countertops, which edge profile did you decide on and are you happy with the results in your kitchen?

2. If you had it to do over again, would you choose the same edge profile and, if not, what would you change it to?

I am certain I'm just obsessing over a small detail that no one who sees it will care about, but it's my first reno and will have to last me a long time. I don't want to see the granite everyday and wish I had chosen a different edge profile. And, I'm sure you can tell I'm having trouble sticking with my decision. lol

Hopefully this helps you!
A close up and distant view of the granite center island:

Details:

Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.

Anyone with pics of stainless fridge and d/w next to each other?

Here's a pic (sorry so big) of the space in question (filled with recycling at the moment...):

This is the best pic I have of the end panels.

Jodi-

I currently have this range installed with an over the range microwave that recirculates the air (via a loud fan) and makes the room very hot. In the renovation, I plan to get a wood mantle hood and I must order an internal vent that will be installed on an outside wall and vent to the outside.

Can you recommend a quite fan that is appropriate for my gas range and / or give me some info on websites that rate these types of vents.

Thank You.

Practically speaking, I may have limitations that hamper too much. I don't really like leather for political and aesthetic reasons. Not necessarily in that order. I definitely don't like all those gorgeous rainforest hardwoods that are not only pricelessly beautiful but actually give-aways.

I've been round and round on the question of swivel or not but think because dh is paranoid about the floor, that swivel would be desirable - though not necessary I suppose.

The hardware is all cast iron so that could work, only in furniture I think the proportions can get off with narrow spindly elements that seem off to me. Still, ...

But I'm guessing real wrought iron would cost a god-awful fortune. The biggest draw-back is that I haven't much money.

Considering all the above I just bought stuff from IKEA to tide me over until I could find better. But as it happens, these are so uncomfortable the little one doesn't want to even sit at the counter anymore: that's no good. Time to start shopping ... which I hate. Did I mention that?

So there's all this energy going to theoretical design; I thought perhaps someone would be interested in investing in some practical design suggestions for stools here.

OK, I guess that's what people are doing all the time ...I'm grateful for any suggestions.

One more limit there has to be a foot ledge and the seat has to be "comfortable". I know that's subjective and sometimes bare wood is the most comfortable; padding the least. Sometimes not.

I wonder if there are craftsman-style stools not made from non-renewable resources for less than a mortgage? With fabric not leather .... hmmmm.... I wonder....

Oh, the setting:

TIA :) The house is a 1924 socal bungalow with craftsman-like pretenses. Nothing too special but we're trying to honor it. sort of. Through that passthrough is a lathe-and-plaster DR with cove ceiling. Windows are original (read: drafty) but you can't really make them out... This photo is pre-BS, pre-corrected lights.

Jodi-

Here are a few ideas. Granite and wood (not all are
butcher-block)
Hope they help.
~boxerpups

My favorite woodworking co.
Devos Woodworking Walnut island.

Another Devos Wood working job

Painted Walnut tops

North Country Cabinets Walnut

MFR Construction

Bespoke Bristol UK

Signature Savannah Walnut island

Walnut Island