Clippings by dilettante

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Using an antique chest to create a vanity/washstand?

posted by: farmhousegirl on 03.01.2012 at 10:57 am in Bathrooms Forum

I am considering this. I was thinking about a wall mounted faucet with a bowl type sink on top of the chest. I'm not sure where all the pipes/drains go though. Will the drawers become inoperable?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 09:18 am

Color of 'Desperate Housewives' living room

posted by: bigdoglover on 01.20.2011 at 07:39 pm in Paint Forum

I feel very silly asking this, but I've recently become a Desperate Housewives fan (have started with episode 1 and worked all the way through to the current season in no time flat -- it's addicting!) and love the peach paint color on "Susan's" downstairs walls. Do you know what color that is, or know how I would find out?

Embarrassed thanks,

bigdoglover

NOTES:

Palettes for all housewives
clipped on: 03.17.2012 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2012 at 04:40 pm

Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! [Help keep on Page 1]

posted by: buehl on 09.28.2010 at 10:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome! If you are new here - you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets. Access the FKB Categories Page via a link in the navigation panel on the right of any FKB page. Additionally, there is also a link to "In-Progress Kitchens" for those members' kitchens that are not quite ready for the FKB. There is also a link to "Coming Soon Kitchens" for those kitchens that are ready for the FKB but have not yet been added. To access the "In-Progress Kitchens", the "Coming Soon Kitchens", and the "FKB Categories", see the links in the navigation panel that is on the right side of each main FKB page.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the kitchen remodel process, take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as layouts, planning for storage, and stone materials are discussed in later posts in this thread. Even more information can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

  • Before posting a question, please search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • Note, however, that you will probably have better luck searching if you use Google (or similar search engine) than if you use the Forum search function. When using Google, to limit your results to Garden Web, include the following in your search criteria:.....site:ths.gardenweb.com

  • In the "Subject of Posting" box, the site changes the double quote normally used as the inches indicator (") to a single quote ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single quotes and it will appear as a double quote. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have follow-ups to your message emailed to you: check the box offering this option. However, you must have the "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page) [See the post later in this thread with the Subject: Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process]

    • Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.

  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this maximum, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.


How are the home page and the Forum organized? (from the FAQs)

  • The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. Then threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread starts to drop.)
  • Below the thread list are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.
  • Below that (and at the top of the thread list) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but not nearly as active.
  • Next down is a Search box -- very important! This is also the Search box you should use (not the one at the top of the page.)
    • Always refresh the page two or three times b/f assuming a thread has disappeared right after starting it.
    • As to searching...a thread will not be found during a GW search for up to 24 hours after it has been started. This may seem too technical, but...searches are done against what are known as "indexes". Indexes use key fields/words to find things. iVillage only indexes threads once a day. So, that means that until your thread is "indexed", it won't show up in a search. If you start a thread just before the index is taken, you will be able to retrieve your thread by searching soon after creation. If, however, you start your thread right after the daily index, then you'll have to wait almost 24 hours for the next index.

  • Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally there are some instructions and links at the bottom.


Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It is for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.
Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togethers and non-kitchen subjects.
Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot of pictures or a finished kitchen. (Note: This is where StarPooh, our FKB person, wants you to post your finished kitchen prior to having it added to the FKB.)


Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun and very rewarding in the end!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.12.2010 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 11.12.2010 at 11:12 am

Calling the late-night sarcastic gifted dilema crew...

posted by: bronwynsmom on 09.29.2010 at 09:54 am in Home Decorating Forum

Well, that was great fun.
Whether Trisha meant the posts as a joke or not, she gave us a great refreshing lift, so I thank you, Trisha.

For all of us who take these requests for help seriously, and give them the careful thought they deserve, and the benefit of our varied scholarship and experience, it was a lovely chance to behave badly.

So I'm throwing in with Edith Piaf, singing "Je Regrette Rien!," and heading back to my big girl chair.

Love you all...
Bmom

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clipped on: 10.01.2010 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 10.01.2010 at 12:35 am

I love helping you all with your decorating dilemas

posted by: trisha57_ny on 09.28.2010 at 09:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I think it would help if you could just shorten your posts. decorating is my passion. I'm very good at it. but I can't read looooongg posts.

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clipped on: 10.01.2010 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 10.01.2010 at 12:34 am

RE: Frameless cabinet installer in metrowest Boston? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kleekai on 02.08.2010 at 08:28 am in Remodeling Forum

The job should be about 25 cabinets - design is being finalized. There is a perimeter with island plus a separate beverage area. Counters are not included. Already have granite fabricator selected.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 08:59 pm

Puzzled about rewiring a chandelier

posted by: pliant on 01.13.2007 at 10:34 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I've been looking all over the internet for information on how to rewire an old chandelier. I have had no luck at all, which surprises me. Does this mean that diy people shouldn't be undertaking this? My experience is limited to rewiring lamps (there are lots of sites that give step by step instructions for that) but I'm assuming that a 5 arm chandelier would be more complicated. If anyone knows where I can find instructions, can you let me know? Or, should I even try this? Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.01.2009 at 01:47 am    last updated on: 11.01.2009 at 01:48 am

Refinishing antique wardrobe

posted by: dany153 on 07.23.2008 at 09:45 pm in Woodworking Forum

I'm about to attempt to refinish an antique wardrobe that maybe either rosewood or mahogany. This is a large piece that luckily breaks down to 6 pieces. I've done the testing and determined the original finish is lacquer, but that there has been an attempt to refinish part of it and that was done in shellac( it doesn't match and there is severe alligatoring on 3/4 of the peice that is lacquered). The lacquer finnish comes off beautifully with lacquer thinner and a bit of elbow grease. Should I remove with just lacquer thinner or use a chemical stripper? And any suggestions on a product ? And any suggestions on what to remove the shellac with? I'm taking this one step at a time, so I'm not to overwhelmed. Thanks for any advice! I'll have many more questions.

NOTES:

Thread contains info about finshes and solvents.
clipped on: 03.21.2009 at 09:56 am    last updated on: 03.23.2009 at 01:23 am

black lacquer touch-up

posted by: laurenjay on 08.15.2006 at 12:18 pm in Woodworking Forum

how do i touch-up black lacquer furniture? Small areas of black are wearing off.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.04.2009 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2009 at 07:24 pm

best websites for fabric online?

posted by: beantownrenovator on 07.30.2008 at 07:33 am in Home Decorating Forum

hi all - do you have a recommendation for (discount) fabric websites? I've been looking around locally and haven't really found what i'm looking for. i've been on designdiva.com but would love more ideas. thanks as always!

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clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 04:40 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 04:41 pm

best sources for upholstery fabric?

posted by: walkin_yesindeed on 06.19.2008 at 07:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Please don't flame me if I missed earlier posts on the topic. I did a search and read various threads, but many of them diverged into discussions of the joys of (as one poster called it) "fabri-holism." And I thought I'd create a best-of thread, so we can compile our collective wisdom.

So, after reading around, here are the sites and stores you've all had good experiences with, right? please add more...

online:
fabricguru.com
designdivafabrics.com
housefabric.com

Ebay sellers (you can use toolhaus.org to check reliability of feedback):
designerfabrics*rr
dabruzzo

bricks-and-mortar stores:
Jo-Ann's, of course
Calico Corners (lots of warnings about upcharges here)
Hobby Lobby?

Looking forward to hearing more!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 04:02 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 04:03 pm

Help on Cost of Boiler

posted by: netransplant on 09.05.2008 at 04:11 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

We just moved up to the Boston area in July. Our home is a two story colonial, about 1,800 sq ft, and we have a natural gas boiler (two zones with baseboard heating).

The current boiler is about 30 years old - it has a pilot light. We have yet to use it in any kind of cold weather. But I brought out some HVAC guys and they have recommended that we replace it with a Buderus system - highly efficient, great controls, outside sensor, etc. Plus they said the thing we have is way too big for our needs.

Got our first estimate back today....$11,250 (though that would be before getting a $1,000 refund from gas company). Talk about sticker shock. We had our furnaces replaced down in N.C. (both upstairs and down) with natural gas, and they were about $8K each.

Is the $11K amount reasonable. Anyone else do something like this? I'll obviously wait for the other estimates...but just seeing if this is what we'll have to cough up. I know they'll pay it back eventually...but again - wow. Also, we are looking at adding about 600 sq ft through an addition next Spring.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 03:30 pm

Basement foundation redo

posted by: t-bird on 03.30.2007 at 03:30 pm in Basements Forum

Hi All,

Just visiting here for the first time and had to join up! This forum is great - so much info!

I had a question. I have a large frame, 1913 house and was wanting to finish the basement. After a previous thread will not call owens corning!

The concrete slab is cracked on one side, definitely need the concrete redone. Alot of the floors in the upper levels are not plum, so I wanted to have the foundation and house leveled before finishing the basement. I also wondered if when I did this, if I could get them to dig down an extra foot or two to make the basement deeper (higher ceilings.)

This site:
http://www.olshanfoundation.com/foundation_pgs/why_fndn.html
sounded interesting, but the nearest one to me is over 300 miles away! I'm in chicago. Any recommendations on where to go/how to start? Costs?

Any comments appreciated! Thanks!

NOTES:

Basement
clipped on: 06.09.2007 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2008 at 04:40 am

jack posts cracking through basement floor

posted by: becphil on 06.24.2007 at 01:37 am in Basements Forum

We purchased a house with 4 jack posts in center of basement. Due to the poor basement floor, they have cracked through the floor and have sunk a couple of inches.

What are my options to repair this? Would sono-tubes filled with concrete work? If so, how deep? What about re-pouring a pad of concrete under each?

Any helpful suggestions would be welcomed.

thanks

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.06.2008 at 03:53 am    last updated on: 09.06.2008 at 03:54 am

Should I bother finishing a basement in an old house?

posted by: hollylh on 02.26.2008 at 11:59 pm in Basements Forum

Hello all. I am new to this forum--usually I am over on Kitchens. I have been reading posts here trying to educate myself and will continue to do so, but since we are talking to to contractors already about finishing the basement I want to go ahead and ask opinions here.

Our house was built in 1910, and is outside Boston. It's a Victorian with a small footprint. Rubble foundation, and of course none of these exterior vapor barriers and such. We do have exterior french drains and a sump pump; we have had some water in the past but I think has often been from gutter issues (which of course could occur again). We are currently having the foundation repointed (interior now, and xterior when it's warm enough). The main issue is that it is COLD down there--40 degrees today (outside temp was around freezing, so not much different). What is going on here? Where do we need to insulate?

Ideally we do want to use it as a playroom--it is semi-finished now (ceiling, some finished closets) but needs a WARM floor, walls, and yes WARMTH. We would waterproof (vapor barrier on the inside walls and a trough/drain cut around the perimeter)and then install some kind of vapor-barrier flooring and insulated walls (not sure what kind of insulation,I am overwhelmed at this point). HOwever, my husband thinks the project is basically hopeless because of the age of the house, type of foundation, etc. Is it? Please advise before we commit to $$. Thank you!!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.06.2008 at 03:51 am    last updated on: 09.06.2008 at 03:51 am

Adding basement under existing home

posted by: robinson622 on 04.04.2006 at 07:11 pm in Basements Forum

In weighing my ideas for adding basement space to my existing home, I was wondering if anyone had their home lifted and added a basement, or you know of someone that did this. I live in a small rancher, and we're thinking of an addition/remodel. I was curious about the cost, etc.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.05.2008 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2008 at 10:44 pm

Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! [Help keep on Page 1]

posted by: buehl on 09.05.2008 at 04:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome - If you are new here - you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as planning for storage can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

  • Before posting a question, search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • In the Subject, the site changes the inches indicator (") to a foot indicator ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single qoutes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have replies emailed to you: check the box offerring this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page)

    • Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.

  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.


How are the home page and the Forum organized? (from the FAQs)

The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. Then threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, an unanswered thread starts to drop down.)

Below that are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.

Below that (and at the top of the thread list) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but not nearly as active. Conversations and Gallery.

Next down is a Search button -- very important!

Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally are some instructions and links at the bottom.


Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It's for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.
Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togthers and non-kitchen subjects.
Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen.


Posting a link

There are two ways to post a link:

Using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

  1. Insert the link in the Optional Link URL box

  2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked int the Name of the Link box

  3. If this is a new Post, then you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
    &lt;a href= http://www.XXX/&gt;Description&lt;/a&gt;
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link

  3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you "preview" your message


Posting a picture from your photo hosting account (e.g., PhotoBucket)

FAQ: Adding Pictures and Links [Note: If using PhotoBucket, copy the code from the line/box labeled "HTML Code"]


Posting a picture from somewhere other than your Photo hosting account

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want the picture to be:
    &lt;img src="http://www.XXX/image.jpg"&gt;
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/image.jpg with the address of the image.

  3. When you "preview" the message, you should see the picture


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Layout Help

We often get requests to help with layouts. Many of us enjoy doing this but it would help if you can post a copy of your layout, preferably to-scale.

  • The best place to start is to draw up your kitchen (to scale, if possible) either without cabinets & appliances if you don't know where to start or w/your proposed new layout if you have something to start with. Regardless, measure and label everything...walls, ceiling height, widths of doors & windows, distances between windows, walls, doorways, etc.
  • If you cannot move plumbing or gas, mark them on your drawing as well.
  • Mark all doorways & windows (w/dimensions) and label them as to where they lead. If they're actual doors, mark how they swing.
  • It also would be helpful to see the connecting rooms, even layouts so you see how they interact with the kitchen and/or extend the kitchen feel and flow.
  • Make note of traffic flows in and out of the kitchen

Make a list of things like:

  • What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc.
  • Do you plan to merge two rooms/areas (e.g., Nook and Kitchen into a Kitchen only)
  • Where are you flexible?
    • Can windows or doorways change size?
    • Can they be moved?
    • Can windows be raised/lowered?
    • Can any walls come down?
    • Does the sink have to be centered under a window?
    • Does it have to be under a window at all?

  • Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center?
  • What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.)
    • Range or Cooktop?
    • Single or Double or no Wall Oven?
    • Warming Drawer?
    • MW? (Advantium, drawer, OTR, countertop, built-in, shelf?)
    • DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2?
    • Refrigerator CD or standard depth?
    • Vent Hood?
    • Other?
    Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? Counter depth or standard depth refrigerator, etc.)

  • Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets?


***** Very Important *****

Is there anything you:

  • Can't live without?
  • Definitely don't want?
  • Would like if you can find a way?

This information will be valuable to not only you, but also any Kitchen Designers you may hire or talk to. Additionally, if you've been haunting the site, you'll notice that we also help with almost all aspects of the remodel, including layout help.

If you do ask for help, then all of the above information will help us help you. Sometimes we stray from what you think you want to give you some ideas that you might not have thought of, but it's your kitchen and you can veto anything...we may argue for something (we're good at that!), but in the end it's what you want. And remember, we are just giving you ideas and possible layouts, in the end when you finalize your design it's whatever you want and decide on! After all, this is your kitchen! [Keep this in mind if/when you use a Kitchen Designer--it's your kitchen, not his or hers...don't let them talk you into anything unless you're sure it's what you want!]


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

When your kitchen is complete, please submit it to the Finished Kitchens Blog! This way your kitchen will join others in inspiring and helping newcomers!

Add your kitchen to the FKB!


Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun!


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Links from above:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ): http://kitchenforumfaq.com/
Kitchen Forum Acronyms: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/forum-acronyms/
Finished Kitchens Blog: http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/

Sweeby Test: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/2007/07/31/the-sweeby-test/#more-6
Beginning a Kitchen Plan: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/2007/08/03/beginning-a-kitchen-plan/#more-34/

Appliances Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/appl/

FAQ: Adding Pictures and Links: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/how-to-use-the-kitchen-forum/adding-pictures-and-links/

Add your kitchen to the FKB!: http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/2005/10/faq.html#Adding

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.05.2008 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2008 at 10:33 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.29.2008 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2008 at 02:48 pm

Junction box for ceiling fan vs hanging fixture

posted by: patty_cakes on 01.21.2008 at 07:30 pm in Lighting Forum

Is this a dumb question~would the same type of box be required for both? I'm not sure, but *think* more support is used around the mounting box for either? I need to know in advance since a few of the ceiling fixtures may be capped until I can find the appropriate fixture, and know they'll be heavy suckers! LOL

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.29.2008 at 01:54 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2008 at 01:54 pm

refinishing an old piano

posted by: swflagrdnr on 08.03.2006 at 10:00 pm in Woodworking Forum

Hi
We just received as a gift an old (c.50 years) upright piano from my mother in law. I cannot tell what kind of wood it is (it's not walnut, pine or oak, I can tell that much), but is is stained, not painted. Also, its wood - not plastic, but does have some veneers. Maybe mahogany?
The piano is a very small upright and I doubt it was an expensive, high end model even when new.
It's varnished with many scratches and scores, but none of the peeling or bubbling sometimes seen on older varnished pieces. Some panels/sections/pieces are stained darker than others for a decorative contrast.
I want to do a quick and easy re-finish job. I have fairly low expectations and do not expect to make it look like new. Also, if some or even most of the scratches remain visible, so be it.
I was thinking I would:
1- clean well, removing all old dust, dirt, oils and grease.
2- do a very light sanding job all over
3- pay special attention sanding and smoothing to any chipped corners/edges
4- one or two coats of a stain seeking to match the original color, going a little lighter if need be, not a little darker
5- top it off with a coat or two of varnish.

I don't think I need to worry about the acoustical qualities of the finish. The piano is for our children to learn on and play at home, not for the audience at Carnegie hall. (Of course, if there is something that I must avoid at all costs or else it will devastate the sound of the piano, please warn me!)

I have never re-finsihed anything and do not have a lot of time to do this project. Ideally, not counting time waiting for coats to dry, it should not take more than 5 hours.

Q: How does my plan sound, in general?

Q: Do I need to remove/strip ALL of the old varnish before I re-stain? Candidly, I don't have the space, time or resources to use a furntiure stripper.

Q: Are there any adequate finishes that combine a stain and a varnish in one?

Q: is there a simpler way - such as a high gloss wax/polish that could simple be wiped on, buffed and polished?

Thanks!

NOTES:

Old finishes - solvents
clipped on: 01.04.2008 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2008 at 06:05 pm

Another jacking up floor question

posted by: erasmus on 01.25.2006 at 11:37 am in Old House Forum

Our house is 110 years old and has two areas that need to be supported better. The kitchen area can be done with inexpensive jacks and I think we can do it ourselves. The other area is not a joist sagging problem, but more of a pier settling problem I think. It needs hydraulic lifting and a shored up pier or new pier.

I called a guy who has been moving houses for about 40 years...he looked at it and said he can do it. The thing is, he thinks it can be done quickly. I've read in several places that it should be done very gradually. I'm pretty nervous about doing it at all, much less quickly. If I want a second opinion, what sort of professional does this sort of thing? I don't think a general contractor would be my best bet.

I guess it might help if I asked the house moving guy how many inches the house needs to be raised. If it's not much, maybe it COULD be done quickly. Any cautionary advice?

NOTES:

Interesting thread
clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 01:56 am    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 01:57 am

1950's wood windows

posted by: elanalv on 02.20.2007 at 10:59 am in Windows Forum

I have a 1950's house with the original wood windows and exterior storms. They were sanded, painted and reglazed when I bought the house a few years ago and they looked and worked fine. However, now I've noticed that the sides of the windows, are not holding the sashes tightly in place. The window sash is wood but the side where they fit into the window frame is aluminum and has springs to hold the sash tight. Is there anything I can do to fix this or am I headed for new windows. I'm not ready for that so I'm hoping I can fix these. I've noticed some of the sides are tight tight, like stuck in place tight, and I'm having trouble straightening the sash to get it in place so they close properly. Any suggestions?

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clipped on: 08.25.2007 at 02:33 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2007 at 02:33 pm

Window won't stay open

posted by: xdothedew on 06.16.2006 at 04:05 pm in Windows Forum

Hi Everyone. I have a window that keeps on shutting when I try to open it. It seems like the spring got worned out or something. Does anyone know if the mechanism can be replaced and what it's called? If it can't be fixed, can I install a support/lock or something to hold the window up? It's about 8 years old. Thanks!!

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clipped on: 08.25.2007 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2007 at 02:30 pm

RE: Middle to high-end upholstery (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: John_WC on 04.23.2005 at 01:18 pm in Furniture Forum

Let's start with the basics. A well constructed sofa consists of the following details: 5/4 kiln dried hardwood (like oak), legs that are part of the frame, suspended coil springs that are 8 way (or greater) tied, corner blocks, double dowel, glued and screwed corners and joints, minimum of high density cushions with upgrades available, fabric matched and high quality fabrics available. Avoid sofas that use bands or straps or serpentine for support as compared to suspended coil springs.

What separates high end and middle quality? Materials, craftmanship, quality and scale. If you want to see the best made sofa brand on the market, look at E J Victor. Incredible stuff. Of course, a price tag to match. But you will see the pinnacle of the upholstery market.

You asked for a list of middle and high end upholstery.

Middle: Clayton Marcus, Temple, Jetton, Massoud, Key City, Thomasville, Highland House, Century, Drexel, C R Laine, Michael Thomas, Harden, Ethan Allen, Pa House, Sam Moore, Fairfield, Woodmark, Lexington and Broyhill. And there are many more.

High end: E J Victor, Henredon, Heritage, Southwood, Taylor King, Bradington Young, Hancock & Moore, Hickory White, Hickory Chair and Baker.

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Furniture quality
clipped on: 07.07.2007 at 02:05 am    last updated on: 07.07.2007 at 02:06 am

Toro personal pace grinding noise?

posted by: forreste01 on 05.09.2006 at 01:35 pm in Lawn Mowers Forum

My dad has a Toro 20017 that the rear wheels slip and make a grinding type noise going up slopes. The pinion gears were worn a little so I got some new ones. What else should I look for while I'm working on it? Is some slipping common on slopes when the bag gets full?

Forrest

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Lawnmower noise
clipped on: 06.21.2007 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2007 at 01:43 pm

RE: Bad Contractor (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: nycefarm on 05.31.2007 at 12:43 pm in Home Disasters Forum

You need to ask for lien release documents for the subcontractors, which proves they were paid by the contractor. Do not agree to pay the contractor without first securing the lien releases.

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Good advice
clipped on: 06.02.2007 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2007 at 04:05 pm