Clippings by deegeegirl

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RE: Will this plant bloom again? What to do to get it to reflowe (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: anna_in_quebec on 03.15.2006 at 09:12 am in Amaryllis/Hippeastrum Forum

Hi - this is what I had success with last year - I have a few Baby Stars. By the way, it's a bulb not a rhizome.

1. Spent stalks I cut to one inch above the bulb, being careful not to damage the bulb (unless you wish collect seeds, I also cut the blooms individually as they fade)

2. Following completion of all blooming (another stalk, or scape, may be coming for you), large strappy leaves will appear.

3. Start to fertilize continually while the plant is in foliage phase (sometimes foliage will appear while blooming, but I think most agree that one does not fertilize while there are blooms)

4. I kept all my amaryllis inside at a well-lit window - one I took outside, as I heard that can be done as well.

5. Toward the end of the summer, the leaves started to turn yellow, - signalling beginning of the dormant phase - and when they did I cut them off and withheld water

6. I then put them in a cool, dark area until around mid-November, when I brought them out and watered once (do not water again until you see active growth)

7. All of last year's plants are now either in bloom or about to bloom. It was my first successful "revival" of amaryllis, and so I was just thrilled!

8. Then it all begins again - once flowering starts anew, begin to water regularly once a week, and remember to rotate them, as the flower scapes tend to lean very strongly toward the light.

Have fun - Baby Star is a real sweetie!

Anna
P.S. others in different zones may have different advice more suited to your climate - but this is what worked for me - with the help of all the nice people on this forum.

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clipped on: 03.23.2008 at 12:18 am    last updated on: 03.23.2008 at 12:18 am

RE: What am I doing wrong? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: salpal on 03.06.2008 at 04:49 pm in Amaryllis/Hippeastrum Forum

Hello daylilly mama-
It is my understanding that you have been cutting the foliage of your amaryllis when it "wilts". Typically one lets it bloom, then allows the foliage to continue to grow and waters it while it does so. Your amaryllis should not wilt unless you don't water it. Please try this: 1. Water it and let it bloom 2. water it when leaves grow and never cut leaves 3. Put outside in the spring. 4. In the fall put it in a cool place for at least 8 weeks.(don't water) 5. Bring in to warmth, water, let it grow. Don't overwater, but water enough to keep it alive and let it bloom, never cutting the leaves. 6. Put it outside/start over. To summerize: water when in growth, never cut green leaves until fall and also research the excellant information on this forum, you shall be rewarded with blooms!

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clipped on: 03.23.2008 at 12:08 am    last updated on: 03.23.2008 at 12:08 am

RE: How do you clean your Bluestar grill? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trevorlawson on 12.27.2007 at 04:59 pm in Appliances Forum

Deegeegirl

You can remove the grates the two stainless steel surrounds the flavor bar and the burner itself. you should only need to remove 1 screw that being the one that holds the burner in place to the back of the range.

once the flavor bar and the burner have been removed you can also take out the triangular piece at the base of the grill.

you must be very careful not to touch the ignition bar to the left of the Grill. I would use easy off to remove the burnt on grease.

Once clean i would recommend lining the grill box with tin foil making sure to over lap the sides so the stainless steel surrounds trap the tin foil. we also line the center of the burner and the triangular bar across the base. Making sure to cut slits both side of the triangular bar at the base to alow grease to run onto the drip pan.

Hope that helps

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clipped on: 12.27.2007 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2007 at 08:53 pm

RE: Blue Star oven takes FOREVER to get hot... (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: nymarty on 09.11.2007 at 03:27 pm in Appliances Forum

UPDATE: I called Prizer Painter and spoke to Peter in customer service. He was incredibly helpful and offered to provide a replacement thermostat. Next step is to get the service company out to the house again to re-check the igniter, the thermostat, the gas pressure and the amperage. One of these things (or some combination) should be the culprit and my hope is that the fix will happen soon.

Thanks, everyone, for your messages and ideas. For those with smelly ovens, I did exactly what 'joe blowe' did. I pulled out the bottom panel, turned it on its side and banged on it to get all that burnt paint and ash out of the oven. I also vacuumed out the bottom box around the burner and made sure there was nothing in there to burn either. Smell is completely gone now. Just have to fix the heat problem.

Marty

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clipped on: 09.11.2007 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2007 at 11:59 pm

RE: Blue Star oven takes FOREVER to get hot... (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: alexr on 08.12.2007 at 04:34 pm in Appliances Forum

My BlueStar oven is very even and works great. It pre-heats just fine, but I don't have a large oven. I have a suggestion to those who are curious. The oven floor is removable, and then you can see the burner with all it's flames lit. Those flames are adjustable (air mixture)just like the top burners.

To remove the oven floor, just slide the oven racks out and then remove the rack guides from the sides. No tools necessary. The floor just lifts up and out. Turn your oven on and wait till it lights the burner (this takes a minute for the glow plug to get hot enough to let the gas flow).
What you see, is what you get. It just keeps getting hotter until the thermostat shuts the gas off when it reaches temperature. It's either 'on' or 'off', like a furnace. The thermostat decides when to blast away, or when to stop the supply of gas.

To adjust the air mixture you need to remove the two screws that are located right below the oven door. These hold the stainless cover that has the slots in it. After you remove the screws just lift up on the stainless slotted piece and it comes right off. Now you can see the gas air mixture pipe, with the shutter than can be rotated to open or close off the air supply. This procedure is in the manual.

So what can go wrong? Well, the supply of gas and pressure (a regulator), the thermostat (not likely if the indicator lite at the knob is on), or the air mixture (adjustable).

Or maybe it just takes some time to heat up a cold, big oven. At least it's not running all the time like the original AGA ovens. The thing is, once it's up to heat, it doesn't need a powerful burner to keep it to temperature. Maybe, some day, gas ovens will allow the top broiler and the oven to run at the same time for pre-heat, but there are a number of reasons, including safety, why this is not done.

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clipped on: 08.12.2007 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2007 at 10:06 pm

RE: Miele washers and dryers (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: krustytopp on 08.29.2005 at 05:47 pm in Laundry Room Forum

JSLP, you plug both machines into the splitter box and plug the splitter box into your existing "dryer" outlet. I don't think the installers did anything more. The box is fairly large but you can screw it to the wall, or place it on top of the dryer as a technician suggested. Good luck with your decision.

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clipped on: 08.10.2007 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2007 at 05:20 pm

RE: Miele washers and dryers (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: jslp on 08.28.2005 at 05:42 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Thanks to all of you for the very helpful opinions. Molly, your comments regarding sorting and energy effeciency are particularly well-written and helpful. We are leaning toward the 5K as it better suits our space and laundry needs (now that I am reassured about the sheets!). I also appreciate all the comments regarding noise. The machines will sit on ceramic tile floor with wood subfloor (2x12 joists) and close to an exterior wall (within a few feet) so should be adequately supported, though not on concrete. Has anyone used the Easy Install Kit to split an existing 220V circuit--any comments pro or con?
Judy

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clipped on: 08.10.2007 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2007 at 05:20 pm

RE: Where do you hang your damp dish towels? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 07.24.2007 at 11:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

I usually hang damp towels over the edge of the sink, down over the front of the sink cab (but not touching the doors themselves). This is mostly at night, after washing up dinner stuff that didn't go in the DW. When the towel is mostly dry (either before bed, or in the morning), I will hang it up on the inside of the sink base cab door. We've done this for years, and never had musty/mildewy towels.

FWIW, the towels we use--Flemish/Ritz Wonder Towels, dry pretty quickly compared to many others, and they last for years (you can get them at Kilian Hardware online).

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clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 12:07 am    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 12:07 am

RE: NeverMT - Please remind me how... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rivendell on 07.22.2007 at 10:51 am in Kitchens Forum

When you originally attach the tubes they suggest warm water on it to soften the tubes- maybe the same thing will work (applied with a sponge if you are working under the sink) to soften it to get it apart. Just a thought.

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clipped on: 07.22.2007 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2007 at 09:58 pm

NeverMT - Please remind me how...

posted by: lowspark on 07.22.2007 at 10:46 am in Kitchens Forum

My NeverMT got disconnected at the pump and I need to reconnect. Problem is, at the junction where the two tubes meet it's too thick to feed through the top. I'm sure that junction wasn't together when they came because I thought I fed the hose down through the hole at the sink and then did the remaining connecting below the sink.

My question is, how do I get the tubes apart at that junction? Sorry this is a sort of stupid question I know but I'm totally clueless!

thanks!

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clipped on: 07.22.2007 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2007 at 09:57 pm

RE: BlueStar No. 24 (Follow-Up #91)

posted by: breezy_2 on 07.15.2007 at 11:41 am in Appliances Forum

I have 1 of the 22K burners in front and 1 in back. As to the scorching problem, I am using the island trim and have set the range 4 inches out from the back splash. This thing has been sitting in my garage for several months now but is about ready to be installed.

Hood is custom built with Prestige high capacity 60 inch liner and 2500 cfm blower. The capture area is 6 feet(6 inches past the range on either side) by 28 inches so I have plenty of reach. Oh, and by the way, lets discuss noise for a minute. Much discussion is had in these forums about vent noise...is wind or motor. I have in my current home, Wolf 36 inch 900 cfm internal blower hood. They hooked up my new system last week and I fired it up. On full speed, it is half the noise of the internal blower unit with almost 3 times the power. Don't get me wrong, I have loved my Wolf hood but this new unit with the remote blower is great!

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clipped on: 07.22.2007 at 06:39 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2007 at 06:39 pm

RE: how to post pics from photobucket? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: debi_2006 on 04.30.2007 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Once your pics are uploaded to Photo Bucket, under the photo there are three different lines of code. The second one is the HTML code that you want to copy and paste into the text of your GW message. Finally, hit preview on the GW message and your pic should be there.

Now, if you want to link a website in your message, you would copy the http address at the top of your browser. Paste it below in the "Optional Link URL", then name it in the "Name of the Link" areas below your message. Hit preview on the GW message and test your linked site to ensure it works.

Hope it works for you.

Deb

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clipped on: 05.28.2007 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2007 at 02:06 pm

RE: how to clean commercial griddle? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: asolo on 05.24.2007 at 12:35 am in Appliances Forum

I worked as a griddle-cook as my first job in the 60's. Learned procedure from corporate-owner. All day while cooking, we just scraped stuff off to the back as it accumulated. At the end of the day, with the griddle still hot, we poured carbonated water on it and scrubbed briefly all over with a coiled-stainless-type pad. Rinsed once more with carbonated water and that was it. Nothing else used -- ever.

I worked there for many months. Griddle was always clean and nothing ever stuck to it.

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clipped on: 05.27.2007 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 05.27.2007 at 11:46 am

RE: how to clean commercial griddle? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kjb120 on 09.23.2006 at 09:16 pm in Appliances Forum

I have a wolf gridle and use it constantly- it is definitely not new looking, that's what the cover is for IMO. I use a dough scraper after each use to clean it off, and when grease builds up, I do what sharon s wrote, but I put ice cubes on ( forum tip) the warm griddle and any dried up excess scrapes off easily.

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clipped on: 11.20.2006 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2006 at 09:56 pm

RE: how to clean commercial griddle? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sharon_s on 09.22.2006 at 06:51 pm in Appliances Forum

I saved this info from a thread from last Nov. Joanp posted Wolf's cleaning advice.

Griddle surfaces
1. While surface is warm, poor water on so that it bubbles. Like deglazing a pan. Use a spatula to scrap off burnt on food that now bubbles up.
2. Poor on more water, and then use a Green Scotchbrite pad with a folded towel on top to protect your hand from any steam. This will scrape/scrub the griddle surface clean. Note: 3M manufactures a griddle cleaning system with special cleaning liquids and specific tools to achieve the same results.
3. For stubborn stains, you can use the Scotchbrite pad with a cleanser like Barkeepers Friend or Bonami. Avoid products with bleach.
4. Once clean, spray or wipe on oil to protect surface from oxidation. If you get an orange color, this is oxidation/rust and should be wiped/scrubbed off with a fine grade steel wool.
5. Light scratches may occur with the use of your Scotchbrite pad. This is normal.
6. Vinegar can be helpful for the removal of stains and discoloring of the griddle surface.

That said, I agree that a darkened, seasoned surface is more desirable for cooking. I plan to get a cover for my griddle, so I don't have to worry about how it looks.

HTHs

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clipped on: 11.20.2006 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2006 at 09:55 pm