Clippings by decornovice

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: How would you spend $9K on appliances (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: marcia59 on 05.11.2013 at 10:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I can tell you how I'm spending about $7K on appliances and I think I did really, really well. First of all, I'm buying them from AJ Madison, which has excellent prices and, so far, excellent customer service. But, full disclosure, some people have had delivery issues. I think it depends on where you are and which local delivery service you're dealing with.

Obviously, I'm not suggesting you have to buy my appliance package exactly, but you asked, so here goes: what I'm getting and, briefly, why.

Dishwasher - Kitchen Aid KUDE48 - Top rated dishwasher are KA, Bosch and Miele. Miele was out of my price range. I considered Bosch and KA. The configuration of the racks in the KA worked better for us than the Bosch. This model is, for us, the right combination of features and price. ($804 after rebate)

Bosch 500 series induction cook top - I decided I really wanted induction. I would actually have preferred a range, but the ONLY company I could find that made controls I really liked was Bosch and they only make a cook top. ($1494 after $300 rebate for this specific appliance)

Bosch 500 series double oven - I want two ovens. Top rated ones in my price range seem to be Bosch and Electrolux. I picked the Bosch over the Elux because of slightly more interior space. I don't think there were any other compelling reasons.

Bosch 800 series MW/Convection. This is preposterously expensive on its own, but Bosch is running a good rebate if you buy 3 items. Because of the rebate, net cost of this oven is about $200 (compared to only buying 2 Bosch items and buying a reasonably priced MW from some other company) and I figure $200 is a very good price for a well reviewed MW/convection. ($761)

Refrigerator - LG LMX25988. I like the configuration and features of this SD refrigerator. LG gets pretty good grades for reliability, although I'm aware that if there is a problem, getting parts is a tremendous hassle. There was actually a Samsung I preferred, but I had a conversation with my appliance repair guy. He does warranty repairs for several companies, but not LG. So if I need an in warranty repair, I'm stuck with someone I don't know. But once it's out of warranty, my guy does repair LG's, so that's good. However, he says that getting Samsung parts has become such an incredible hassle that he just won't repair Samsung anymore and thinks I'll have trouble finding someone locally who will. If I can't call this guy even for a non-warranty repair on a Samsung product, I'm not buying Samsung. I figure everything needs work eventually and I want to know that I can call someone I trust. ($2515)

Vent hood - Zephyr AK7136ASBF. This is a highly rated company. This hood gives me the CFM rating I need for the induction cooktop. It's low profile, not a big chimney showcase, but that's fine with me. ($539)

With 2 different rebates for the Bosch appliance package, one from Bosch and one from AJ Madison, the whole thing, including tax, comes to a little over $7K.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.11.2013 at 07:01 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2013 at 07:01 pm

RE: $$$??? Cost of removing vinyl flooring & subfloor (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: katsmah on 11.05.2010 at 01:04 am in Kitchens Forum

We just went through this after my contractor told me that prepping for a tile floor was adding a layer of ply and thinset over the existing floor. Which we found out was 2 layers of ply and an old layer of linoleum in between. My kitchen is smaller - about 120 sq ft.

Contractor wanted $1,400 to rip the flooring out to the actual subfloor. A tile contractor wanted $400. BF and I do some DIY and tackled the job over a weekend. It was hard work for a 64 yr old M and a 53 yr old F. But we managed it. I think the 12 x 12 tiles would be easier to demo than sheet.


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.06.2010 at 02:55 am    last updated on: 11.06.2010 at 03:10 am

RE: $$$??? Cost of removing vinyl flooring & subfloor (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: biochem101 on 11.05.2010 at 06:41 am in Kitchens Forum

Since you mention 'tile guy', I checked the John Bridges tile forum.

Same reason. I was having multiple floors removed and tile laid.
People talked about the cost in various parts of the country. There are also other helpful hints there.

Like you might want to tell him how big/small you expect the grout lines.

Here is a link that might be useful: John bridge Tile Forum


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.06.2010 at 03:05 am    last updated on: 11.06.2010 at 03:05 am

RE: $$$??? Cost of removing vinyl flooring & subfloor (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kudzu9 on 11.05.2010 at 05:43 am in Kitchens Forum

cindylood-
Before you can decide whether this is a good price, you need to determine if these flooring materials contain asbestos. Older floors often did have it and improper removal can present health hazards for your family. One thing you don't want to do is have some contractor come in and do this work until you have made an independent determination about your situation. Typically, you would take some small samples to a certified testing lab for analysis, which shouldn't be very expensive. However, if you have asbestos, proper removal will add significantly to the demo and removal costs. I've included a link to give you some info. If you have questions, email me and I can provide you more details or links.

Here is a link that might be useful: Asbestos in Flooring


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.06.2010 at 02:57 am    last updated on: 11.06.2010 at 02:57 am

RE: $$$??? Cost of removing vinyl flooring & subfloor (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: artemis78 on 11.05.2010 at 01:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Do you have to remove the subfloor for sure (damage, etc.)? I can see how that part might be fairly involved---does his cost also include the new subfloor, or is that separate?

As a point of reference, we just paid $2500 for demo of our 235 sf kitchen. Of that, one of the more involved items was pulling up our ceramic tile floor (glued down quite well, apparently!) although we left the subfloor intact. It took the better part of a day for three guys to get it up---so it could be a number of man hours if yours is glued down, plus the costs of disposal. I thought our demo quote was high when we started, but now that we're on the other side of it, it seems very reasonable for how much time everything took!


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.06.2010 at 02:56 am    last updated on: 11.06.2010 at 02:56 am

RE: Induction cooktop amps (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: fun2cook on 06.28.2010 at 02:57 pm in Appliances Forum

I have a contractor in my house right right, beginning demolition. And we were just talking about electrical requirements. If you have an electric oven, it should be on a dedicated (nothing else on it) 220. It you have an electric or induction cooktop, it also needs to be on a dedicated 220. If you have an over-stove microwave/exhaust fan, it also needs to be on a dedicated line, not sure if it has to be 220, 110 is probably ok. Since I am going with a gas cooktop, the igniter system for it, and my overhead fan can share a 110 line. but check with your contractor or electrician. Local building codes play a defining role.


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.05.2010 at 07:50 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2010 at 07:50 pm

RE: Induction cooktop amps (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: motleydog on 06.22.2010 at 11:23 am in Appliances Forum

I understand many newer homes are wired for 200amps now, but most older homes were 100. My guess is that the cost of a new breaker box and upgraded amps will add about $2-5K to the cost of the remodel. It makes a gas cooktop more appealing to me.

Just curious if anyone with 100amps to the house has induction.


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.05.2010 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2010 at 07:47 pm

RE: Cabinet Construction Quality (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: daveinorlado on 09.09.2010 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have sold Norcraft which is the same as mid continent with a extra company in the distribution meaning there was a large wholesaler between me and the factory. Mid continent dealers have to sell more kitchens to buy it direct. Beating the price of woodmark was not possible with Norcraft as a general rule of thumb. Beating Kraftmaid price was normall possible. I would shop mid continent a little harder and take your written quote from one dealer to another and see if they will beat your first price. Take the second price back to the first and see what they will do. I sell Brandom which has been in business for 57 years with a lifetime limited warranty. I just went to home depot today to call out a customer who was lying to me that I was more expensive then Woodmark. So not true I can do a 50% mark up on Brandom and be withing in a few hundered dollars of Woodmark. I gave a 35% mark up to the customer which is very insulting to say they can get a better price at home depot.

I would cream a Kraftmaid price and day of the week. I do not have the multiplier on Mid continent but it is supposed to be cheaper then Norcraft.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 06:30 pm

RE: Cabinet Construction Quality (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kitellie49 on 09.09.2010 at 07:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello,

I sell Dynasty cabinets and in my area I consistently beat Kraftmaid pricing given by both Home Depot and a local small shop. Shop around! I don't know the Mid-Continent line, but Dynasty at 40% over Kraftmaid is not right. Maybe I need to raise my prices!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 06:29 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 06:29 pm

RE: RTA Cabinet Help (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carolinesmom on 10.13.2010 at 07:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

We purchased Conestoga RTA cabinets thru Rick at www.cabinetauthority.com. We've been happy. They offer a lot of different sizes and you can also order custom cabinet sizes as well. Hope that helps.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 06:27 pm

RE: daveinorlando..... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: daveinorlado on 09.04.2010 at 09:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I am not afraid to give my opinion on here. I imagine many others who make a living on kitchen and bath products that read this site do not like my posts I am willing to tell you what you need to know where you and the retailer both win on price point of brands I know the costs on.

Kabinart is a 10 year warranty cabinet made in the USA from a family owned cabinet company. They are easy to price cause they only offer the cabinets in plywood construction.

Dealers are normally less then the Woodmark and Shennandoah brands at Lowes and Home Depot if the cabinets are sold @47% of list price. That is where I start my quotes to one time buyers but honestly I will go as low as 39% and still feel it is worth the sale.

In the Glazed Cabinets the cost goes up 15%. The good news is you can have glazes or paint finishes for 15% extra but you get glaze for free on painted finishes if wanted.

54% of list price is where I shoot for on paint with glaze 45% of list price is about as low as I will go. A typical 20-30 ft kitchen when I go as low as I am willing translates to about $1,000 to $1,500 profit as a store owner. You can stay in business as long as you are involed in at least 1 kitchen a week like that.

Interstock cabinets are ok. IF it is your dream home I would consider other alternatives first that have better warranty's first.

I know most garden web readers jump from the roof tops to save you from a Chinese product! I do not honestly know where Ikea cabinets are made but I bet it is not in the USA! Sunco is a company you should consider. They are based in the Boston Area. They import their products pre finished and put them together professionaly with machines clampls and all kinds of tools to glue them together the american way before shipping them. Their elite series is not RTA. A great cabinet for the money. You can not choose your stain color because they buy on large scale to stock the items they sell pre finished but you can not beat the price.

6 square cabinets offers an awesome cabinet for the money. Their products are based on the same model. They offer limited Lifetime warrranty and the finish in my opinion is unbeatable. You should be able to get a price of 39% of list price or less on a 6 square cabinet. a 100% mark up on 6 square is 52% of list price. You should be able to do the math from that to figure everything out you will ever need to know to negotiate.

Independent dealers who carry the allwood brand cabinet sold in Costco get the cabinets at 50% less then costco does. I have no idea how much costco marks it up I have not taken the time to figure it out. I will in the coming week or two. I did a price for possible customer this week with 32 lineal feet of base and wall cabinets and came up with a price of approx $8,500 to the consumer with 36" wall cabinets with crown in a raised panel with glazing. 5 piece drawer fronts with dove tail and soft close drawers, soft closing door hinges, plywood construction and limited lifetime warranty. My dealer cost was approx $5,500. I would be happy to negotiate with the customer if I feel I will be taken seriously. I marked it up exactly 50% so I know I will be less then Costco who is the biggest competition on that product. I will always be less then them at 50%. Go to their website and find a independent dealer in your area that sells it 36% of list price leaves 50% profit for dealer which should be more than enough to keep them happy and give you a better price for a product with longer warranty and great finish.

Interstock is a good product. Their cherry hill door is the best value for the door style. It is the most elegant. Interstock has different multipliers for each door style so I will not get into the math on their products.

If you are looking to consider RTA cabinets I would look at all of the following if I could in your area.

Fabuwood is in NJ they are have a large selection of door styles and colors for being RTA. I do not know if they sell to the public out of a show room as the company that stocks them. A 100% mark up is 60% of list price most cabinet companies try to sell the RTA cabinets for 50-100% mark ups. If you pay 100% it should be assembled and delivered as a minimum. 50% markup is in line with companies on the internet some slightly higher some lower. Fabuwood has to be glued and stapled together so it is a little better quality over a cabinet that has plastic parts that fit together to assemble it. Fabuwood offers a 1 year warranty.

Look at JSI before you decide also since you mentioned this is a home you want to stay in long term. JSI finishes are pretty good and there are several door styles to chose from. 68% of list price is a 100% markup. JSI offers a 1 year warranty.

River Run in Harrisburg Va is an excelent cabinet for the price which is RTA and glued and stapled. Each cabinet has a different multplier of list price to arrive at dealer cost so I will skip teaching you where to bargain to to get a good price and leave enough money for the dealer to stay in business. 1 year warranty

KCD in Raliegh NC imports cabinets from the same cabinet maker as River Run with a slightly lower cost to the dealer. 100% mark up on their Lenox and Tahoe doors style which is excelent price is 68% of list price. 1 year warranty
Remeber 100% mark up should not upset you out of principle in rta products. The overal cost of the cabinets is much less than Made in the USA cabinets so the total dollar amount is generally lower than a semi custom cabinet. Generally I shoot for 50% mark up on the semi custom lines I have with the intention of providing better prices then then the starter brands at the big box stores. Conventional wisdom in our industry tells us that Lowes and Home Depot sell 50% of all cabinets Nation wide. I have no way of knowing if that is indeed true but it is considered to be true by most people I have ever talked to. So if you can beat their prices you are priced right to half of the total competition. I shoot for 25% markup on my custom cabinet products. Generally if my price on a custom cabinet product is $9,000 - $15,000 at a 25% mark up I am making $3,000 -$4,500. At this time I do not ever give out quotes that are much higer then that. I do not attract people that are looking for Wood Mode and other brands like that which are so much more expensive.

TSG is a great company in NJ that imports cabinets they have 10 to chose from to be in competition to interstock. 1 year warranty. 100% mark up is 78% of list price.

IKS in South Carolina is another cabinet company with a few nice door styles to chose from that has a good finish when price matters most. 1 year warranty also. 100% mark up is 68% of list price

Sunnywood sells a great inset cabinet line in RTA if you are looking for that. 1 year warranty is also par for the course! Without my books I am thinking 100% mark up is about 78% of list price also.

Adornus in Miami is a great price for Frameless RTA also. I do not remember their dealer cost of MSRP as I write this. 1 year warranty

Panda kitchen and bath is another frameless company that imports cabinets and sells their own inventory thru panda retail stores. I do not know dealer cost for them. They have a lot of accessories as a general rule also.

Smart Cabinets is an awesome made in the USA cabinet for the money when you are on a budget and want to get something nice if you are ok with flat slab Euro look, Shaker, or Raised panel. I am doing a kitchen for my friend of 20 years He got a quote from Home Depot for $30,000 to reface his cabinets. I got him full overlay shaker cabinets with dove tail drawers (plywood with laminate instead of solid wood) Plywood box construction 36" wall cabinets, shaker crown, super susan base corner cabinets, 32 lineal feet of total cabinetry, pull out spice rack, slide out trash can, roll out drawers in all other base cabinets, 24" pantry with 4 roll out trays,2 30" pots and pans drawer base cabinets built im space saver microwave on the counter next to the pantry, glass diaganol corner cabinets with interior stain and soft close full extension glides on the all the drawers. My dealer cost for his kitchen was $4,050 including shipping. I gave it to my friend for $5,000. Smart is a little known product line in the world of kitchen and bath dealers in the US. Look them up and find someone in your area that sells them. 100% markup is 72% of list price.

Many stores in the Mid atlantic sell norcraft and aristokraft cabinets together. Those stores will also have access to aristokraft's bargain hunters line they call contractors choice. The door styles and finishes are basic but ok. You can not chose to have soft close at this time. I think that is a mistake on the part of the the management of the product line. None the less if you are considering interstock it may be worth a look for you.

If you are going to consider kabinart you should also consider Brandom from Texas. Brandom has a nice selection of door styles but offers 39" wall cabinets and life time limited warranty. 100% dealer mark up is 68% of list price. General rule of thumb is 51% of list price should be less then Woodmark and Shennandoah. Any dealer in todays economy should be willing to sell it for less than that if they are a smaller company without huge overhead.

When you get into the higher end door prices from Kabinart or Brandom Bridgewood Custom becomes a better deal. They offer 10 year warranty on their cabinets. 73.8% of list price is 100% mark up.

Door components in Alabama is another great brand that is customizeable at semi custom prices. They make their own doors so changing door sizes for custom arrangements is not problem for them. 100% mark up is 44% of list price.

Do not expect to get cabinets at less than 25% mark up in made in the USA products and 50% on imports as general rule of thumb. Those percentages leave enough money on the table for the a small cabinet company to stay alive. If there is a designer on comission and base pay and a store to pay for expect higher mark ups.

I hope this is helpfull to someone. I gain a lot of insight in the mind to the consumer when I read the posts which is why I check the site regularly. I am happy to give back to help you learn reasonable price points and info for products I am familar with so you can go shop with confidence in your area.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 04:43 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 04:43 pm

RE: leather textured countertops (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: doonie on 11.04.2010 at 07:57 am in Kitchens Forum

I went from polished granite tiles in my old kitchen to a leathered granite island in my new kitchen. I was tired of all the muck marks and smudges that showed up on my old medium colored polished granite when the light reflected on it. I find my leathered Antique Brown doesn't have the water marks and muck marks. If you google leathered granites, it looks like "Absolute Black" may be one to stay away from since it shows fingerprints and sounds like it would be problematic in the leathered texture.

The granites listed in this post are good choices to get as leathered since they are tried and true. I would really investigate if you are thinking about leathering other granites.

This is Antique Brown Leathered Granite.

Antique Brown Granite


In summary, check out whichever granite you are wanting in leathered surface. Some of them are easier to keep looking clean than others.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tom Cordova - The Rock Blog


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 01:52 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 01:52 pm

Sloppy or 'To Be Expected' Glaze?

posted by: missmuffet on 11.03.2010 at 10:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

After much anticipation, my sample doors arrived today. I was very excited to see how the chocolate glazed honey stain would look on Starmark's Breckenridge style. Previously, I had seen another style door in this color - it is the large door in the picture below:

honey cab in kit

I knew that the glaze would "hang up" differently then it did in the style I had seen at the showroom - but I didn't expect it to look like this:

Stain 2

Door Stain

Are these normal glaze "hang ups" or is this a sloppy job? I'm just trying to figure out if this is the wrong style (should I go with something simplier like the door in the first picture), or if this is a sign that their attention to detail might be off. My concern is that if this is a sloppy job on a sample door meant to sell me their product, why would I spend $20,000 and then worry for weeks if my finished cabinets are well done?

Did any of you get your cabinets and regret the glaze? Should I consider a different style? Should I consider a different brand? I'm rethinking everything about the cabinets. Ugh. It is so difficult to make these choices.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 01:44 pm

The greatest kitchen planning resource ever....

posted by: weed30 on 11.04.2010 at 12:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

....from 1949!

Watch the video on the link below. Amusing on the surface, but pretty interesting that many of the "new" ideas that have come out over the last 10 - 15 years are really quite old. There are also features that are no longer offered that would be fabulous to have, ie, the trash bin that has a door on the outside of the house for emptying.

If you pay attention during 7:15 - 7:32 into the vid, you'll see the precursor to the Seal-A-Meal/Food Saver :)

Here is a link that might be useful: clicky

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 01:41 pm

RE: Please help me find a local cabinet maker! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: aokat15 on 11.03.2010 at 02:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got a recommendation for an Amish cabinetmaker near Cleveland, OH through this site. The member was doing a kitchen in Arlington, VA (member is tooskinneejs - there are beautiful pics of the cabinets under the Building a Home forum). I'm in Cincinnati, OH. Our custom cabinets were just delivered and are absolutely BEAUTIFUL!! Can't say enough about the quality!!! The cabinet maker is Mark Miller of M.A. Miller, LLC. Phone number: 440-636-5697. As I said above he's near Cleveland but he told us he travels all over the country doing jobs - even out west... so it may be worth a call. Good luck!


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 12:51 pm

RE: Please help me find a local cabinet maker! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: hilarymontville on 11.03.2010 at 03:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

@Decornovice - I used Creative Cabinets in Boonton, NJ (northern) but maybe that's not too far for you to travel? They did an outstanding job but I have yet to post pictures - coming soon.


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 12:47 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 12:47 pm

RE: Please help me find a local cabinet maker! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: drjgreenberg on 11.03.2010 at 06:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Decornovice: We are in NJ and are going to use www.heardwoodworking.com My architect recommended him for top quality 100% custom. We met with Russell the owner and his price is the same as a local shop quoted me for omega/dynasty. Russell's cabinets include install and there is no tax b/c he installs so it's a capital improvement. He is very passionate about his cabinets which he calls furniture. Love that! You may also remember Smarge- she used a custom guy for built-ins and her bath. If I remember right, she loved him and wished she used him for the kitchen (I have no idea about prices...)

From Smarge in NJ: Our cabinet maker, as I'm sure you've read in other threads, is the #1 favorite sub our contractor used and we have hired him directly for many other projects which we love.
His name is Rich of Siena Woodworks in Rockaway NJ (973) 495-2000. He is talented, intelligent, calm (valuable on a busy job site!), and very good at planning details in advance. If I knew then what I know now, he absolutely would have done my kitchen (although I am still happy having worked with my KD bc I had no clue when I started planning the kitchen. I used Jeff Kennedy who works out of The Sawhorse in Millburn. I just would have preferred cabinets by Rich instead of the Kountry Kraft I bought.)


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 12:45 pm

RE: Kitchen Plans /pic - appreciate input. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 11.01.2010 at 08:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Welcome Mike!

First, you appear to have two different layouts...which one is the correct one? I'm assuming the first.

You say you have a beautiful view of the river from the back of the house...where is that view in the layouts? From the DR/table space or the cooktop wall? If the cooktop wall, those are awfully small windows...

What are the dimensions of the space? In particular what are the aisle widths? Are the widths measured cabinet-to-cabinet or counter-to-counter (a more accurate method)?

I have major concerns...

Right now, I see a conflict b/w the DW and the refrigerator and ovens. If the DW is open, you may or may not be able to open the refrigerator, depending on what you end up w/for a refrigerator. This affects not just prepping and cooking, but also cleaning up. You won't be able to put leftovers, condiments, etc. away while the DW is open.

With the ovens, you need room to be able to stand in front of them without anything obstructing the path, which the DW is. Also, you don't want to risk backing into an open DW door when taking something out of the oven.

In addition to the refrigerator/oven vs the DW issue, you also have the DW blocking access to the sink from the cooktop and it's right in the middle of the Prep Zone. Your Prep Zone will end up next to a water source and, in your case, that's the sole sink in your kitchen...in the island. You will have a conflict b/w the Prep & Cleanup Zone.

There will also be major zone-crossing since the Cleanup Zone is pretty much in the middle of everything. To get to the refrigerator from the cooktop/Cooking Zone, you have to cross the Cleanup Zone and, as I mentioned previously, the Prep Zone is actually in the Cleanup Zone.

If you're willing to switch the dish drawers and the DW, I think you'll be better able to use the island for prepping...not only b/c the DW will no longer be in the way, but also b/c (1) you'll have more workspace for prepping and (2) you won't prep over a potentially open or running DW (it can get hot & moist (steam) when a DW is running!)

However, if you must have your Cleanup Zone in the island and the DW on the right, at least consider putting in a prep sink on the perimeter to locate the Prep Zone outside the Cleanup Zone and next to the Cooking Zone...I think the corner would be best.

Refrigerator location...right now, your refrigerator is in the heart of the kitchen. This means that anyone looking for a snack will get underfoot/interfere with anyone working in the kitchen, especially prepping and cleaning up. It's usually recommended that you have your refrigerator (and MW, btw) on the periphery of the kitchen so it's easily accessed by people working in the kitchen as well as "outsiders"...without those "outsiders" getting in the way of those working in the kitchen. (The current refrigerator location would work better if both the Cleanup Zone & Prep Zone weren't all in that one location in front of the refrigerator.)


Storage/cabinets...you appear to have several narrow cabinets. In general, those cabinets not only waste space, but they also drive up the cost of the cabinetry b/c they cost quite a bit more per sq ft than a larger cabinet. In particular...the cooktop wall and the island.

Doors vs Drawers...I recommend that most, if not all, base cabinets be drawer bases, not roll out tray shelves (ROTS). The only exceptions are the sink base and trash pullout. Tray storage can easily be above the ovens and so you don't need to waste a base cabinet on it. (Base cabinets, for the most part, are "prime" storage!)

Narrow drawers usually aren't as useful as you'd think. With any cabinet, you lose at least the thickness of the walls in width. With framed, you also lose the space the face frame takes up. With drawer bases (and ROTS), you lose the thickness of the drawer box sides, clearance needed b/w the drawer box & wall/frame to allow the drawer to move freely, and/or, if side-mount glides, the space the glides need (if bottom-mount you lose drawer height).

Finally...island height. Single-height islands are generally much more useful than multi-height islands. Single heights offer a wide expanse of work space for baking projects, crafts, wrapping gifts, homework & school projects, etc. With two or more heights, you limit how the island can be used not only b/c you don't have as much room, but also b/c you have to be careful what you put and where on the raised height so things don't get pushed off the back and onto the lower counter. With a sink on the lower surface, especially a full-size sink, you also need to be careful about room behind the sink for faucet, etc. (The raised counter will have a bit of overhang over the lower side that will take up space behind the sink.)

If you're trying to hide the "mess", your best bet is to move the Cleanup Zone to the perimeter and create a true Prep Zone in the island. Raised counters only hide "messes" from someone sitting below the height of the counter (i.e., someone sitting down, but not anyone standing up or walking by) and the "mess" will be "in the face" of anyone sitting at the island.


Something to keep in mind when thinking about where to locate the view and from what zone...
* 70% of the time spent working in the kitchen is spent prepping
* 20% is spent cleaning up
* 10% is spent cooking
So, if the view is important to those working in the kitchen as opposed to visitors, then orient your zones in such a way as to take advantage of it for most of the kitchen work...prepping.

I suggest considering shifting things around so you prep (and only prep) on the island and cook & cleanup on the perimeter.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.03.2010 at 02:20 am    last updated on: 11.03.2010 at 02:21 am

RE: Shiloh or similar cab costs (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: builderbob_2010 on 07.13.2010 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I looked at Shiloh and went with FE cabinets instead. Shiloh has a wood grained vinyl interior and over all was lower grade than FE. The price was very close. I was really impressed with the cabinet photos on line, and more so when they arrived. Try kitchenplace.

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchenplace

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.02.2010 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2010 at 07:16 pm

RE: Cabinet Quote = ridiculously giddy right now :) (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: craftlady07 on 11.02.2010 at 04:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

hi kngwd!

I'm in the lehigh valley. The custom wood shop is Blue Mountain Woodworking in Bath, Pa (about 20 - 30 mins NW of Easton if you're coming in from 22 or 78) the website is www.bluemtnwood.com and the guy we talked to is Kyle. The hours aren't on there (I'm going to recommend they put them on there), but the showroom is open M,T,W,F 8-4:30 and Thursday 8-7 and Sat 9-1. call before you go on a saturday just in case. the # is 866.746.2588

The warehouse place is closer to Allentown (off RT 78 on Lehigh St) it's Keystone Supply Outlet(keystonesupplyoutlet.com) Feasterville is a bit far for us to travel.

We're getting (2) 24" BC, (2) 18" BC, (1) 12" BC, (1) 12" angled BC, (1) open shelf 12" rounded BC. Then (4) 24" UC, (2) 27" UC, (1) over the range microwave UC, (1) over the fridge UC, and the 36" corner UC and BC.

Off the top of my head, I think that's everything.
Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.02.2010 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2010 at 06:31 pm

Almost done traditional kitchen (with pictures)

posted by: jm_seattle on 10.30.2010 at 01:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the fantastic posts and information! Here are a few pics of what we're ending up with:

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.30.2010 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2010 at 02:50 pm

MDOD s kitchen is done!

posted by: mdod on 10.25.2010 at 01:27 am in Kitchens Forum

After over a year our kitchen is finally done! Well...not technically but everything but the cabinet lights and'recessed can trim is done and I'm living with what I've got until LED lights get a little better.

I haven't looked it up for a long time but I believe I have to post the kitchen here before it goes to the Finished Kitchen Blog. I'm going on vacation next week and wanted to get this posted before I leave.

I started planning and researching in the spring of '09 and I really appreciate all the help I've gotten here along the way. Other than making the island bigger and using drawers in all the base cabinets except the sink and the corner cabinet, the layout stayed the same. We kept our Bosch dishwasher and Insinkerator garbage disposal and replaced the rest of our appliances. I stripped the wallpaper in July and we took down the fluorescent light box in Sept '09. We got the cabinets in early Oct '09 and changed out the cabinets and appliances in phases so we always had a functioning kitchen. Some of the delays were my fault. It took me several months to decide on hardware. I didn't have the floors refinished until March. It took me over 6 mos to find granite that I liked so we put our old countertops over the new cabinets until we got the granite in April.

The following is a list of everything we put in:
Cabinets: Scherrs RTA frameless custom cabinets. Natural Cherry Select style 200 door, style 500 slab drawer front, "F" edge detail. Industrial board boxes with natural hard rock maple melamine interior. Blum CT Inserta hinges. White melamine drawer boxes with Blum 430 e drawer slides. 32" kidney Super Susan (much better than the old lazy susan that spun around). I had them take 1" off the shelf depth for the corner wall cabinet so I could put a magnetic knife bar in the door.
Granite: Sienna Bordeaux
Backsplash: Interceramic IC Brites 4 1/4 x4 1/4 in canvas
Pulls: Amerock BP53003-G10 96 mm Home Depot
Knobs: Amerock Reflections Satin Nickel BP1387-G10 www.woodworkershdwe.net
Pendant lights: Thomas Lighting Cambridge Colonial Bronze SL8241-23
Panasonic Convection Microwave: NN-C994S Buy.com
Refrigerator: Whirlpool Gold GB2SHDXT
Miele 30" Induction Cooktop bigger than 30" KM5753
Electrolux EW30EW55G 30" Convection wall oven
Electrolux Icon E30DD75ESS 30" Downdraft Ventilation
Kitchen Sink: Vigo SS Sink VG3019 + grid from Surplusdecor.com
Kitchen Faucet: Delta 470-SS-DST faucetdirect.com
Soap dispenser: Delta RP1001SS faucetdirect.com
Red oak hardwood floors refinished
Paint Benjamin Moore Aura Matte in Dessert Green

Comments about Scherr's cabinets and installation
First, I can't say enough about how great Leon and the people at Scherr's were to deal with. No matter how many times I called or emailed he responded like he was happy to hear from me. He had no problems doing some unusual things I wanted to do and went above and beyond the call of duty to help me come up with a trim solution for my cabinets because I didn't have room for crown.

When installing drawer fronts, you have to watch where the handles will go because the predrilled hole in the drawer box may interfere.

I should have made the oven cabinet wider. I was just looking at the minimum cut-out dimensions but with frameless cabinets the box isn't that much bigger and the oven trim goes right to the edge. bigger for trim. It works but it would have been better if I made the cabinets a little wider.

I have several 30" or wider cabinets and the composite shelves do sag in the middle with heavy plates or cans. Our previous face frame cabinets had shelf supports in the middle of the back and the center frame stile that prevented sagging. There's no frame to add them for the front of the shelf but we were going to try to add support clips in the middle of back but haven't tried that yet.

When putting the cabinets together, be sure to pound the dowels in all the way. It doesn't seem right because only a little section sticks out but the ends that it goes into is only 3/4" thick so it will blow out if you leave too much of the dowel sticking out.

To attach the cabinet connectors clamp the sides of cabinets flush at top, bottom and sides.
Drill 5 mm hole 1" from front, in 3 places: top, bottom and middle.

Attaching the filers: drill a 1/8" pilot hole for filler. Use the 1 1/4" filler screw. Fit flush to face.
Install a screw about 2" from the top and bottom, and then 1 per ft.

The Blum door hinges are awesome. You just push them in and flip a lever down to lock them in place. No screws or drills. The 170 degree hinges do take up a lot of space though.
Some special things we did in our kitchen:
Soap Dispenser- no need for Never MT. Just hook plastic tubing to the bottom of the dispenser and run into a bottle of detergent. Just make sure it's fits snug.

They drilled the hole for the soap dispenser before I caught them. It is too far back so the soap just barely clears the sink. It works but it would have been much better if it was further forward.

When we made the island bigger we covered the HVAC floor vent so we had to turn it into a toe kick vent. My husband didn't want to use a 3x12 vent cover and he really liked the flush floor vents we got when we refinished the hardwood floors. So..he took the toe kick and screwed a rectangular wooden frame to attach the vent to. The he got a 4x10 flush vent and cut it down just past the grill and cut out a rectangle in the toe kick to put that in. It took two weeks to find what we needed and get it like he wanted and nobody can even see the thing but he thinks it's cool.

We put an electrical outlet inside the island cabinet for all the chargers.

We already had an outlet inside the pantry for the dustbuster and shredder.

I also wrote a post in the appliance forum with thoughts on my appliances. We've had most of them in for about a year now.

Here's a link to my photo album with before and after photos and comments as we went along.

Thanks again for all your help. I will try to check in if anyone has any question but I won't be available very much for the next month or so. I tried to put everything here.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.26.2010 at 06:16 am    last updated on: 10.26.2010 at 06:16 am

RE: Got a quote! Not likely! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 10.24.2010 at 02:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's unclear if you're just talking a cosmetic remodel of the indicated areas or if you're actually talking about some new construction or structural changes. For a simple cosmetic remodel, it's about as budget as you can go without increasing the DIY portion. If this includes any structural or systems issues, then it's dangerously low priced so that I'd have to wonder about their ability to accurately quote.

National average expenditures on like for like replacement remodels are 30K for kitchens, 12K for bathrooms, and that's only with minor plumbing or electrical. For structural changes, and major systems alterations, the totals are more. You've also got a laundry and bar area included.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.24.2010 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2010 at 08:55 pm

RE: Induction range, what do I, need to know? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: macybaby on 05.05.2010 at 12:13 pm in Appliances Forum

I started considering induction over a year ago. At that time there were less choices on a range setup so I decided to go with seperate units. If the range choices we have now were available back then, I would most likely have ended up with a range.

I don't think there has been any single brand out that that people have universaly said to stay away from, so you may want to look at several to see what types of features you are getting in the OVEN part for your money. The main difference in the cooktop is going to be layout of burners and controls. Some of the ranges come with one oven and storage, oven and warming drawer and even two ovens. I don't know about different features but I won't buy an oven without convection and love having the proofing cycle on mine. I have made bread three weekends in a row and all have risen perfectly.

With induction, things heat up way faster than other types of electric heat - you learn fast not to walk away, and you don't need to let the pan heat up long at all before adding stuff to it. It is neat being able to turn a boiling pot down and see instant results from a change in heat level.

Since you kitchen is done, your main issue will be finding something that fits and that you have adequate power for. We had enough power run for a range, but when we decided to go with seperate units, we had to run a second 40 amp 220 circut.

Cathy

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 08:48 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 08:49 am

RE: Induction range, what do I, need to know? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: oskiebabu on 05.05.2010 at 10:29 am in Appliances Forum

While I greatly prefer separates in cooking (ie. cooktop and separate oven), there are a number of 30" induction ranges. Kenmore, Electrolux, G-E, Frigidaire, Samsung, Viking, Diva de Provence (although I think they might have dropped out of residential items and now just make commercial units), etc.

A drawback of ranges is the lack of choice of burner configuartion on the top. With separates you have a plethora of options, both in configuration, power, and bells and whistles.

A number of people like the fairly inexpensive Samsung range at $1,999. The G-E Profile range is of similar pricing. The Viking ranges are very high priced at around $6,600. If you are at all concerned about service you can check out the Kenmore induction ranges and see if they have what you want or consider desirable. Similarly the G-E Profile looks nice and should be very easily seviced if ever necessary. Usually the only things that can go wrong are computer boards, pop-in burners (very easy to replace), and cracked or marred cooktops.

The ranges are much less expensive then separates. But you don't get the latest and best cooktop performance from such companies as Thermador, who has excellent induction cooktops.

Greg

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 08:47 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 08:47 am

RE: Induction range, what do I, need to know? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: earth_pal on 05.04.2010 at 07:16 pm in Appliances Forum

WritersBlock,
I wrote what I did because of our experience. The people who built our house (grr!) built it with all gas appliances and only a 200 amp panel. We had to add another 200 amp panel and even then we are close to max depending on what I have running at that time. From what others have said in various threads, many are switching from gas to electric/induction and could easily run into a similar situation.

Let me clarify my service comment then... Since induction is still pretty new, many of the repairpeople I have talked with recently have limited to no experience with it. I think that it is wise to know up front to ask if the repairperson has any experience repairing induction units.

I second your comment regarding burner arrangements. The one thing I don't like about our Bosch 36" model is the smallest burner is in the back and not as easy to stir eggs on as if it were upfront.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 08:46 am

RE: Induction range, what do I, need to know? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: warmfridge on 05.04.2010 at 05:41 pm in Appliances Forum

WB, many induction ranges require a dedicated 50 amp circuit. Many older radiant electric ranges only use 40 amp circuits, therefore a new breaker and/or wiring may be necessary.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 08:45 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 08:45 am

RE: my finished nyc galley kitchen! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: calypsochick on 10.18.2010 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you thank you! The Moon Night is from All Granite and Marble Corp. in Ridgefield Park, NJ.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.19.2010 at 04:19 am    last updated on: 10.19.2010 at 04:19 am

my finished nyc galley kitchen!

posted by: calypsochick on 10.18.2010 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and words of wisdom! Our NYC galley kitchen is pretty much done. You can see more photos and information here and I'd be happy to answer any questions:

www.pinkroots.blogspot.com

Thanks!!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

Granite ...small sink solution...subway tiles...are my warmer colors too dark for the small space..NOTE GRANITE PLACE BELOW
clipped on: 10.19.2010 at 04:14 am    last updated on: 10.19.2010 at 04:16 am

RE: what granite edge did you choose and why (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: susanka on 07.24.2010 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

We liked the simplicity and more contemporary look, and the lack of an upcharge, so we went with an eased edge everywhere. You can see just a bit of the edge on this photo. The granite looks pretty gray here, but it's really green, verde esmeralda.

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.17.2010 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2010 at 05:37 pm

Our Finished Traditional Kitchen

posted by: natenvalsmom on 04.09.2010 at 10:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Many of my decisions were made before I discovered this forum, but I learned so much by reading through the responses to countless threads, even if I didn't always join in. Thank you to all of the helpful people who so generously give of their time and expertise to all of us who are embarking on this exciting journey.

We started the actual demo/remodel at the end of June 2009, and we were back in in early September, but it was not "completely finished" until we received our counter stools/window treatments in late fall. I love working in this space, and it is wonderful for entertaining.

link: http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/pssternpictures/

Here are some of the details:

Cabinets: Omega/Dynasty - Destin door style
Perimeters: Maple, Oyster finish with a caramel glaze
Island: Alder, Sable finish with a coffee glaze
Hardware: Top Knobs M827-96 and M827-7, Oil Rubbed Bronze
Countertops: Twilight Red granite
Sink: Franke PRX 160, stainless undermount
Faucets: Waterstone, Annapolis faucet, filtered water faucet,
side spray, air gap in satin nickel
Garbage Disposal: In-Sink-erator, Evolution Essential
Lighting: Recessed lighting
Pendants: Quoizel Monterey Mosaic Mini Pendants
Chandelier in Breakfast room: Quoizel Monterey Mosaic Bowl
Range: Thermador, 36" gas, PRG364EDG
Hood: Thermador VTN 1000 CFM
Refrigerator: Thermador, 36" Bottom mount freezer, French Door
Dishwasher: Thermador, DWHD64EP, 6 cycle
Microwave: Sharp, 30" Stainless Microwave Drawer, KB6525PS
Backsplash: Field Tile: Lycian Simena (travertine, 3x6 subways)
Framed piece behind range: Sonoma Custom Blend
Floor: Azuvi Austin Crema 20x20 porcelain tile
Breakfast Table, Chairs, Counter Stools: Artistica
Paint: Benjamin Moore, Louisburg Green over the sink
Benjamin Moore, Saybrook Sage in Breakfast and Family Rms
Windows: Milgard
Window Treatment: Custom valance and woven shades

Before:
Before -

Before

Before

After:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

granite

Franke sink

Photobucket

Thermador 36

Sharp, 30

Photobucket

Photobucket

&quot;ogee over bullnose&quot; edge

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket


NOTES:

note granite and BM green (sage) walls
also
omega cabinets...island alder sable finsih instead of mandarin...
clipped on: 10.17.2010 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2010 at 04:22 pm

RE: What do you do with 6 inches... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhome410 on 10.04.2010 at 03:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

In our previous house, we had an odd 6 inches and just put a full height door and kept a folding step stool in there. It was one of my favorite details of the remodel. The step stool was so handy, but out of sight.

NOTES:

another later posts quotes her for the idea and she was able to have GC do a three inch pull out for a step ladder...

investigate the full height 3 inches next to the refrigerator and wall

clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 05:14 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 05:16 pm

RE: What do you do with 6 inches... (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on 10.04.2010 at 08:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have two 6" pullouts flanking my cooktop cabinet...

6'' Pullouts flanking cooktop

Closeups:

Spice Pullout, 6&quot; cabinet to right of cooktop in main Prep Zone

Baking Sprinkles Pullout, 6'' cabinet to left of cooktop in Baking Center

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 05:04 pm

Pics of my countertop/paint - any backsplash ideas?

posted by: paulabrady on 10.16.2010 at 01:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a couple pics of my Bronze eclipse counter tops (WilsonartHD) with Koi Pond and Canoe SW paint choices. My kitchen will be on the casual side but wouldn't mind a classy back splash if it will work. My cabs will be natural maple with chocolate glaze. Should I have some of the koi green in my back splash? Sorry about the blur, I couldn't get a clearer picture without distorting the colors. My hardware will be matte black.
Wilsonart High Def and kitchen paint colors

NOTES:

particularly like the paint colors
bronze eclipse...check for granite counterpart
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 04:29 pm

RE: So how in God's green earth did you choose your cabinet hardw (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: nursetammi on 08.15.2010 at 05:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

OMG that was so hard, I remember being on the computer for hours each night trying to decide. My cabinet guys used this site http://www.hardwareresources.com so I was on that site forever. I went with the Glenmore series.I am pretty traditional. The only piece of advice I would give is be sure you get knobs and pulls that stand out enough that when you put your fingers on them you don't touch the cabinets. My old kitchen had knobs that were pretty close to the wood and we saw some wear and tear. Good Luck...you'll make the right decision for you :) Then you have to decide the exact spot you want them on the cabinet or drawer and if you want all pulls, all knobs or both. I did both, here's a pic for you.

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 12:11 pm

RE: Share your backsplash pics for a good cause! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: nursetammi on 08.16.2010 at 06:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used Scabos Travertine subway style tiles with haystack colored grout.

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:29 am

RE: Leathered Black Granite? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rookie_2010 on 10.15.2010 at 10:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I LOVE mine too. Zero maintenance. I was choosing between leathered black cambrian granite and soapstone. I knew the soapstone was a tad bit more maintenance, I still wanted it but couldn't get my husband onboard so I went with the granite. I'm glad I did now because I have some higher maintenance materials in the kitchen so it's nice to have a worry-free one on the perimeter. A lot of people mistake it for soapstone, they're obviously not GWers!
Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:27 am

RE: Leathered Black Granite? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jama123 on 10.14.2010 at 07:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi
I love my leathered black pearl granite. Absolutely no maintenance, no chipping, no staining, no scratching no need to ever seal it or do anything to it. It is totally worry free and very beautiful. I struggled with counter top decisions for way too long and am very happy with this choice.

Here is are some photos (I still need to paint and put in light fixtures)

Good luck!

Jama

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:27 am

some cool ones (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rookie_2010 on 08.16.2010 at 02:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

backsplash  kitchen

backsplash  kitchen

Fireclay Backsplash traditional kitchen

Very tasteful use of bling

backsplash  kitchen

Understated, classy, glass, love it

Backsplash Exclusives modern kitchen

My opinion is that the 4x4 in muted, mixed shades are the next big thing to come back...

Atherton Residence mediterranean kitchen

Marble and ceramic done right and with restraint, love this too

Amoroso Design contemporary kitchen

2x2s in Autumn slate I think, very neutral and a little modern

www.ryanjamesdesign.com modern kitchen

I wish I had the you-know-what's to do this...

Stardust glass contemporary kitchen

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:25 am

Almost There!

posted by: buehl on 06.24.2008 at 09:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I haven't posted about my kitchen for awhile for a couple of reasons...first, I was afraid I had over-posted and people would be saying. "Oh no, not her again!" Second, my camera is out of commission. Well, I borrowed my DH's business camera and took some pictures yesterday to show you the current state of my kitchen...we're getting there! (Now hopefully it's been long enough since I posted a new thread that people will be interested!)

Plumbing: PR still not done b/c of countertop issues (I will be posting a separate thread tonight or tomorrow about this asking for opinions) Also, mirror is too tall...the lights will not fit above it!!!

Electrical: Electrician was out today installing Plugmold & finishing lights. Still have to finish in-cabinet lights and install Mocketts on either side of main sink.

Granite:: A myriad of issues, not the least of which was that pieces for each countertop (at seams) were different depths and had not been feathered! They looked so surprised when they went to install…both times!!! (Did they not learn from their mistakes on the window wall?? Grrrrrr) When asked if they had checked them at the yard they said no b/c they didn't have enough room to put them next to each other…(we have this new-fangled gadget called a "ruler"!) They re-did the epoxy in the seam on the window counter so it's black and much closer to the color of the counters (they had used gray...w/AB granite????)


Here are the pictures:


Full Kitchen from DR:
Full Kitchen from DR

Full Kitchen from FR:
Full Kitchen from FR


Cooktop Wall View From DR:
Cooktop Wall from DR

Cooktop Wall view from FR:
Cooktop Wall from FR

Prep Sink:
Kohler K-3345: Undertone™ five-sided undercounter kitchen sink
Kohler K-12177: Fairfax® single-control kitchen sink faucet (pullout)
Kohler K-1894-C: Soap/lotion dispenser
Kohler K-R8801-C: Duostrainer® sink strainer
Prep Sink
(With separately purchased sink grid--"Not nearly as nice as the grids in my main sink that were included w/my Ticor sink!)

Cooktop & Hood:
PP962SMSS - GE Profile™ 36" Built-In CleanDesign Cooktop
Vent-A-Hood® SEPH18
Cooktop & VAH Closeup
GE Profile Cooktop Closeup

Warming Drawer:
PTD915SMSS - GE Profile™ 30" Warming Drawer
GE Profile Warming Drawer Closeup

MW Drawer:
KB-6025MS Sharp Microwave Drawer Oven
Sharp MW Drawer

Cabinets & Floor Tile:
Emser Vecchia Corte™Glazed Porcelain
Tile Floor with Cabinets

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:17 am

RE: Has anyone use Dynasty & Omega 'near custom cabinetry' (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 10.05.2008 at 02:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Dynasty is Omega's semi-custom line of cabinetry. Several people (including me) have Omega Dynasty cabinets. In our case we have a mix of Omega Dynasty & Omega Custom. Our door style is in both lines so were able to use Dynasty (semi-custom) for most cabinets and Custom where needed. There area a few differences b/w the two lines, but most construction details are the same.

We have cherry wood, mandarin orange stain, and a coffee glaze. Our door style is Anson.

Some "almost done" pictures are in the thread linked below. Another place to see Omega Dynasty & Omega Custom kitchens is the Finished Kitchens Blog (http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/). Click on the "FKB Categories" link on the right and scroll down until you find the "Cabinets" section. You will find both Omega Dynasty & Omega (Custom) in the list. Click on either one for a list of GW members' posted kitchens that use these cabinets.

Thread: Almost There!
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0621040923076.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Omega Construction Details

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:15 am

RE: Has anyone use Dynasty & Omega 'near custom cabinetry' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: julie7549 on 10.05.2008 at 07:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Omega Dynasty. They are well-constructed. I got drawer inserts, pull outs, knife slots, you name it. Very happy with the cabinets. You can see them at my blog: www.julie7549.typepad.com

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:12 am

RE: Where have all the classic deep red cherry cabinets gone? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 03.21.2008 at 09:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I think that any REAL wood in close to it's natural tones will NEVER be "out of style". However, just as a lot of people are sick of "golden oak" cabinets because the builders during the 80's used the poorer quality ones to death, "deep red" cherry is getting a bit of a "lash back" in decreased popularity. Again, mass builders are the culprit, as is the increased mass market furniture production coming here from China. Much of the Chinese made furniture or cabinets doesn't even use cherry wood, but it's called "cherry" because it has that thick layer of red brown tinted lacquer over a lesser wood that obscures the grain almost entirely. THus, cherry in a redder stain has become associated with this lesser quality "cherry" in a lot of people's minds. (Much like mahogany or teak is so scarce that now just anything is covered with a dark red brown lacquer or a golden brown lacquer and called "mahogany" or "teak".) Good quality real cherry wood cabinets with a light tinted stain so the grain is readily apparent will always remain valued, although not so common, simply because premium cherry costs a LOT. Using premium cherry with only heartwood doubles or triples the costs of cabinets, and average people who want "cherry" cabinets don't want to spend $75K on them. THus, you see a lot of "cherry" kitchens with darker stains that obscure the amount of lighter sapwood more successfully. The lash back against oak, made cherry a lot more popular in the late 90's, and again, raised the price of truly premium cherry, so the builder's grade cabinet companies and the Chinese imports got involved, and you have another wave of "anti" against a particular cabinet type---the "red" cherry.

Cream glazed cabinets or "Shaker style" will probably be next on the "hit list" of being "too common". ;~)

Bottom line is get what YOU love. No one else is paying YOUR bills or cooking in YOUR kitchen. And if anyone comments about how "out of style" anyone's NEW kitchen is, then they don't deserve to be invited back into your home!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:04 am

RE: Where have all the classic deep red cherry cabinets gone? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: buehl on 03.21.2008 at 12:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Is this what you mean?

Artesia Door w/Mandarin Orange stain & Coffee Glaze (Omega Dynasty/Embassy)

This our door:

  • Cherry wood
  • Mandarin stain
  • Coffee glaze
The door style has changed slightly due to cost considerations (flat center rather than raised panel), but the finish has remained the same.

I've always wanted a cherry kitchen but didn't think it would ever happen (heck, I never thought we'd be able to do anything like what we're doing with our kitchen remodel...I am so excited about it!)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 11:01 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 11:01 am

RE: Do we 'build in' the fridge? Aggghhh-please help me decide. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: nursetammi on 09.18.2010 at 12:50 am in Kitchens Forum

I just love having a built in (which is really a built in). Would do it again in a heartbeat. It really is so nice not having the frig stick out.
Here's a pic, sorry I don't have any close up at the moment
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 10:56 am

DIY kitchen redo. Thanks Garden Web

posted by: magglepuss on 10.09.2010 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

My husband and I just finished painting our kitchen cabinets. We also had put slate flooring in this room, and family room, tiled the backsplash, and replaced 20 year old almond color formica, with new formica countertops. LOL. The cabinets were the original golden oak, but with extra trim. I never really appreciated all the extra trim, until we painted them.
I haven't posted much on this forum, but have done a lot of reading, and looking at all the beautiful kitchens to get ideas.
Thanks so much for all the inspiration.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.16.2010 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 10.16.2010 at 10:53 am