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RE: Best way to get filtered water if NOT in your fridge? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: breezygirl on 02.28.2012 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Or you can go super low tech like I did. My municipal water tastes off to me, but is otherwise good water so I didn't need a fancy filter. I went to HD and got a GE inline filter. It fits right on your cold water line under the sink. No separate faucet cluttering up the sink top; it's cheap; and the water tastes great. The initial pack with filter was about $50 and replacement filters are about $25. Sounds like the filter will need to be replaced every six months or so.

The cold water flow rate is slowed only very, very slightly. The hot water flow rate is not affected. I only noticed the cold water flow when I did an experiment with my identical cleanup and prep faucets. I could tell the prep sink cold water was running a tiny bit harder than the cleanup sink. Still, it has zero impact on how you use the cold water. It still comes out a a very good flow.


GE inline filter
clipped on: 04.20.2012 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2012 at 05:54 pm

What kind of backsplash that goes with SS

posted by: lalitha on 03.13.2012 at 02:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Need suggestions please. I have to figure out the backsplash soon. What kind of backsplash goes with Belvedere soapstone counters? The floor will likely be terracotta color pavers and the ceiling is wood panels. The cabinets will be painted. Something pale as most of my light is filtered light through big skylights and windows.

PhotobucketBelvedere Soapstone


clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 04:12 pm

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.


Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.


clipped on: 03.11.2012 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2012 at 08:58 pm

RE: What one thing makes your kitchen so wonderful? (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: melissastar on 03.03.2012 at 07:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Two things I love: The wide curved soapstone peninsula, both for baking projects and for casual visitors to sit at while I cook. (Especially love it now that Florida Joshua finished it as it should be). toward the dining room
wood and tile hood

Sombreuil: LOVE that door!


Stove niche
clipped on: 03.04.2012 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2012 at 07:31 pm

RE: Finished Traditional Kitchen (lots of pics) (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: jm_seattle on 03.06.2011 at 12:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks all! We really did our best to build a 50-year kitchen instead of one that would get ripped out in 10 or 20 years. That goal involved always pushing for three things: high quality, high utility, and a traditional look that fit in with the rest of the house rather than the current trends. Here are a few more details and answers to the questions:

The house is a 1924 Tudor. Not very big by today's standards (<2K sq ft), but had a kitchen and breakfast room that we could remodel into a single kitchen without adding on. The total space is about 16' x 12'. Here's the rough floorplan we worked from:

Highly recommended if you're in the Seattle area! In addition to making beautiful, high quality cabinets, it was Tim who came up with a lot of the cool storage ideas like taking advantage of the interior walls.

Compost Bin: Blanco Solon.
It's out of Canada but there are US .com vendors if you do a web search.

Tile: Oregon Tile & Marble's Isole line. They have a showroom in Seattle, but also sell through retail tile stores. & Sheets/IE Lanka Isole_2pg.pdf

Here's a closeup of the backsplash:

Hardware is all in polished nickel (except the glass filler, which was the only one we could find that didn't require two hands and was only available in chrome).

Cabinet latches:
We chose ones with large knobs on the advice of our cabinet maker (who said as we got older our hands might have a harder time turning a smaller knob).

Drawer pulls (incl fridge) are Restoration Hardware Aubrey:

Hinges are White Chapel Ball-tip:

Cabinets/trim are Benjamin Moore Bavarian Cream
Walls are C2 Sugar Cookie
Ceiling Benjamin Moore Paper Mache

Counter: Some sort of Brazilian Soapstone. I wouldn't recommend our fabricator. If you're shopping for soapstone, definitely bring a water bottle / damp cloth with you and view each piece wet. Ours was light grey when we bought it, but turned almost jet black when we oiled it with mineral oil, and the damp cloth gave us a much better idea of the final color.

Sink: Franke GNX-110-28.
This was one of the few sinks we could find with a drain in the corner. The corner drain allows the plumbing to be tucked away in a corner and gives you much more usable space under the sink. Here's a shot of the sink and the usable space underneath:

HOOD: Vent-a-Hood SLH9-130SS
COOKTOP: Miele KM5753+

Just let me know if you have other questions- I'm happy to tell the good and bad and it's the least I can do after all the help this forum has given me. :)


clipped on: 01.03.2012 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2012 at 08:43 pm

RE: Do you regret surface-mounted medicine cabinet? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: TorontoTim on 12.21.2011 at 03:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

How big is the bath?

In our 8 x 10 main bath I put in a surface mount Restoration Hardware cabinet and like it. Saved some framing etc. and it looks nice over the large pedestal sink.

In my small 4 x 7 powder room I'm doing now, I'm installing an inset cabinet (also RH - polished nickel etc. to match the rest of the fixtures and surprise my wife who has no idea I have the cabinet yet).




beadboard, med cabinet
clipped on: 12.29.2011 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2011 at 09:41 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vicnsb on 03.01.2009 at 01:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is mine so far...
It holds dishes, small appliances and food items.
inside pantry


pantry position - near range
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 12:35 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 12:36 pm

Photo of my pantry. (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: sharb on 10.30.2007 at 10:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a photo of my pantry. It was completed almost a year ago. Yes, it was painted, but we didn't put anything in it for maybe a month after it was painted.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

I have more items in the pantry than did when this photo was taken, but it is just more of the same stuff.

I think it is just a musty, stale smell from lack of air circulation.


pantry but with small window
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 12:18 pm

RE: Slide-in range in front of window -- what to do for backguard (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: hlove on 07.01.2011 at 02:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know how helpful this is, because it's difficult to tell what's going on behind the range from the photo, but I recently found this on the BH&G website....I'm looking to do this in our kitchen.


range in front of window?
clipped on: 08.15.2011 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2011 at 10:56 pm

Calculating Window Height (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: buehl on 02.10.2009 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went through this for our window. We had a bay window that was only 22" above the floor. We raised it so we could put our counter into the bay and up to the sill as well. The two side windows open, the middle window does not. It is difficult and you may or may not get it exact...err on the side of slightly higher than lower, though, b/c you can have a very short sill (~1/4" or so) and still have the same look.

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

  • Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)
  • Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

  1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?

    • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

      E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

      Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

    • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.
  2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

  3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.

    • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

    • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

  4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.



counter height window instructions
clipped on: 08.15.2011 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2011 at 10:46 pm

RE: counter height window pictures please (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 02.09.2009 at 11:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

here are mine... they are bumped out about 8"... inside and outside pic for you.


counter height windows
clipped on: 08.15.2011 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2011 at 10:34 pm

RE: Does anyone shower in freestanding tub? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: oldhousegal on 11.01.2010 at 05:44 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's my tub in my remodeled bathroom, 1919 house. Tub is original, just added the shower, riser, and curtain rod. Love to shower in this, and since I'm tall, I could make it any height I wanted! Fixtures are from



overhead faucet, clawfoot tub
clipped on: 08.13.2011 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 08.13.2011 at 08:44 pm

RE: Should I cover an awkward window in my 1930 tudor kitchen? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: patser on 06.07.2010 at 07:13 pm in Old House Forum

When we moved into our brick bungalow, the kitchen was room A and a bedroom was room B. The original kitchen window was at sink height and the original bedroom window was less than 35" from the floor.

We swapped the 2 rooms, making it necessary to deal with the wrong height windows in 2 rooms. We hired a mason that specializes in historic buildings and it was a very easy project. We reused the lintels, changed the headers, and enlarged/shrunk the two openings. We reused the brick and moved it from one side of the house to the other.

The cost was alot less than we expected. I'd do it again because moving the 2 rooms has greatly improved the space throughout the entire house.


Low window issues
clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2011 at 05:25 pm

RE: Backsplash in, thanks for the help! PICS! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mythreesonsnc on 06.13.2011 at 11:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you all for the nice comments, I am really excited about it, this has been a long project and we are in the home stretch, expected move date is mid-July. Just a week or two ago I thought we were going to have to move to another state and I would never get to move in... that was upsetting! Looks like we'll be moving soon though.

To answer several of the questions:
The tile is 3x6 honed crema marfil from (cali_wendy got hers here too). I ordered sample pieces from them which was very helpful.

The paint colors:
Walls: BM Greenbrier Beige
Cabinets, ceiling and other trim: BM Manchester Tan
Floors: Random width walnut --- not finished yet so they just look dusty, but they were really pretty when they first went in! We'll just use a clear satin poly (starting tomorrow, yippee!)
Island: also Manchester Tan, but the island top is a plank walnut finished with
Waterlox.... It is covered in the pics.
Granite: White Diamond --- some parts of it are more beautiful than the others, but I love it!
The island is finished cabs on the range side and under the overhang -- I recognize the overhang portion will be fairly useless, but since the space was there, I figured we might as well be able to access it!

Thanks again for all of the help...

Here is a link that might be useful: crema marfil tile place


Crema marfil tile from about $20 per foot ouch
clipped on: 07.25.2011 at 12:31 am    last updated on: 07.25.2011 at 12:31 am

RE: Where to build spice rack into new kitchen design (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: scottno on 07.24.2011 at 07:24 am in Kitchens Forum

This is our spice storage.

spice doors closed

spice doors open


Spice storage
clipped on: 07.25.2011 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 07.25.2011 at 12:22 am

RE: Please review kitchen lighting layout (X Post with Lighting) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Luv2Laf on 07.19.2011 at 08:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there.
I'm by no means a lighting expert, but I can tell you my experience and hope you can benefit from my mistake.

As a result of a hasty design and no research, I placed my 6" cans in the wrong spot along my cabinets. If you put the cans behind the counter - like yours are placed in the design, you will get shadows on your counter top...very annoying shadows.

I then did some research and discovered that the proper placement for the counter lighting is such that the light is centered over the counter's edge. This does indeed eliminate the shadows.

As for distance between cans, the simple plan would be to place your 6" cans, 6 feet apart; 4" cans, 4 feet apart, etc. This is for a standard ceiling. A taller ceiling can have them closer, but I don't know the specifics. This leads me to my next mistake which was to place the 6" cans too close together. My kitchen was too bright and I was never able to find the right combination of bulbs to satisfy my lighting needs. Upon this recent remodel, I did better research and I'm now using 4" cans spaced properly and at the right depth (from the wall out to the counter) and the first round of bulbs (standard 9 watt CFL/50 watt equiv) were perfect.



Lighting placement advice
clipped on: 07.20.2011 at 08:19 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2011 at 08:20 pm

RE: Where can I find old fashion subway tiles? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: artemis78 on 05.06.2011 at 06:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Umm, that's edlakin's kitchen, and saved in many people's clippings as a nice example of a period install... :)

I think her tiles were handmade and thus might not have been perfectly square, but what's making them look irregular is the narrow grout line, more than anything else. Using a 1/16" grout line shows every little variation in the tile, which is why a lot of people who want that look use the Subway Ceramics or other similar rectified tiles to get perfectly straight edges. We couldn't afford that, so just got the straightest stock tiles we could. Fine, but not perfect. If you want to do a teeny grout line, though, you want to avoid irregular tile---you won't be able to set it properly because of the variations. (Many of the handmade tile places say 3/8" grout lines or bigger for their tiles.)

Basically, get Subway Ceramics or its brethren if you can afford it, and if not, get very regular machine made tile. (American Olean and Daltile are cheap and both work for installs like this.) In either case, use a 1/8" grout line or smaller (1/16" is best IMO)---what will get you the "old-fashioned" look, more than anything else, is the narrow grout line with darker grout. Good luck!


subway tile advice
clipped on: 07.09.2011 at 02:04 am    last updated on: 07.09.2011 at 02:04 am

RE: Range Hood Height - How High is Yours? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: trailrunner on 07.06.2011 at 03:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a 1400 cfm at 33 ". I am 5'2 and DH is 5'11" so this is perfect for us both. Ours has the lip in front plus the wood framing so the controls and lights aren't an issue. Steve has it right...the cfm and capture makes up for the height differential. Add in , as he says, the way you cook and it really is a big variable.

Cook top area and wood hood w/ Tradewind liner


Interesting range hood
clipped on: 07.06.2011 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2011 at 10:50 pm

RE: Backsplash Pencil Rail ? with pics (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mythreesonsnc on 06.10.2011 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Colorado_mom, I saw your post and was excited because my crema marfil 3x6 backsplash was just completed yesterday! I really really like it. It is on a very small area in my space, but the colors are so pretty! I think your glass colors will be great with the tile. I am with the others about drawing a "line" to your problem outlet area. Could you post your space so we can see the spacing you are talking about.

Here are 2 pics: The first one is closer up of the backsplash.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

The second is a pic from farther away:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

I think a big decision about the glass accents and borders is whether you want it to be the focal point, or if you want it to blend and other accents will be key. For my space, I really wanted it to just blend, but maybe this is a big focal point in your space. The color combo is beautiful! Can't wait to see pics!


crema marfil
clipped on: 07.04.2011 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2011 at 02:20 pm

RE: darn microwave--where should it go? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: med22 on 05.18.2011 at 06:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I am using GE Spacemaker under cabinet similar to this in a hutch-type set up:


The GE is much smaller than this...only 12 inches deep and 12 inches high. 24 inches wide so it fits under a cabinet nicely.


microwave placement
clipped on: 06.24.2011 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2011 at 11:08 pm

RE: Backsplash FINALLY going in!! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: holligator on 06.01.2011 at 03:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, I'm really glad I had them do the tile over the window. Even my mom, who was quite skeptical of the idea, loves it! Here it is in reality, as opposed to photoshop (still not grouted, of course)...


ceiling, soapstone, subway tile
clipped on: 06.20.2011 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2011 at 11:11 pm

found drawers on kitchen forum (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: desertsteph on 05.22.2010 at 02:01 am in Smaller Homes Forum

it's circuspeanut's kitchen -



clipped on: 05.11.2011 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2011 at 08:12 pm

Finished our small powder room -- I mean small!

posted by: hmsweethm on 01.20.2008 at 12:30 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi. I lurked on this site for months as we were renovating our house, and learned so much from everyone's helpful answers and advise, especially on tiling, fixtures, etc. I posted our kitchen a month or so ago, and now I wanted to post pics of our three bathrooms. I'll start with the powder room, a testament to how much you can do in a tiny space. We combined two closets to create a space that is 3'8" by 6'4". Because the ceiling is so high --almost 10' - and there is a window that lets light in from an adjacent study, it doesn't feel so cramped. We also tried to keep the materials elegant and simple to complement our 1890s home. The door is original to the house (moved from one of the old closets, and we tried to match other trim. Hope you think it worked!



Here is what we used:
Floor Marble basket weave "Tribeca" from Walker-Zanger
Baseboard Marble Tribeca collection from Walker-Zanger
Kohler toilet Devonshire
Empire Industries vanity & mirror Kensington
Savoy sink
Showhouse by Moen faucet - Waterhill in polished nickel
Lighting above vanity Restoration Hardware Chatham double sconce in polished nickel
Pendant West Elm capiz shell
Towel ring, vanity knobs and soap dish RH in nickel
Paint Benjamin Moore gray (Ill have to look up exact name)


clipped on: 05.11.2011 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2011 at 12:52 pm

farmgirlinky kitchen before/after -- too long, too many pictures

posted by: farmgirlinky on 04.23.2011 at 10:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Apologies in advance for a long post! and thanks to many thoughtful GW denizens who served as sources of inspiration to this frequent-lurker, sometime-poster: xoldtimecarpenter, rhome47, marthavila, palimpsest, buehl, boxerpups, marcolo, johnliu come to mind, among others.

We live in a 1910 house in urban Connecticut, and have been gradually renovating it for the last ten years. We hope to live here another twenty--thirty years or so, next stop would be assisted living vs. skilled nursing! So: nardellos-to-the-wall renovation, amortized over decades.

The original space included a walk-in pantry, originally the ice-box room, and the "telephone closet", which we ripped out when we moved in. The "servant's dining hall" and kitchen had long since been combined into one room. So the "before" space was raw and ugly but functional, and we installed our old Aga range and were happy for a decade. Five years ago we acquired the Subzero when our old fridge gave up the ghost. Maybe I pronounced the old fridge dead while it still had a thready pulse, but I hated it. With this renovation we ordered an Aga Module to append to the old 4-oven gas-fueled Aga range, so that we could turn the latter off in the warmest months. In the winter, we are glad to have a separate heat zone in the kitchen, where we tend to live. The rest of the house is kept just above freezing. The windows and doors were restored, except for one new window that was built to match the old ones.



Steven Marchetti of Peix & Marchetti is our friend and architect. The space was gutted last August, and our excellent builder friend Allen Mathes built around the Aga and the large refrigerator. Allen built a fir "floor" on the ceiling and "strapped" it. The Aga is vented into the old flue and could not be moved -- the range hood could only be vented through one bay between joists to the rear of the house, so we held our breath until the custom Rangecraft hood arrived and was installed and fit like a glove: that's why the ducts are assymetrical. Very Terry Gilliam.



The floor is cork, and here is a picture of unwaxed Jucca soapstone countertop. The cabinetry is custom-made in New Haven, by fantastic Bryan Smallman:



Here are the just-about-finished pictures: there's a little trim to be done yet. We love the kitchen and it works well -- prep sink at the window and the utility sink accessible from both sides of the island are especially handy, because several cooks can work comfortably together and clean-up seems more communal. The Profi faucet is terrific for clean-up, also accessible from both sides because it is side-mounted on the Julien undermount steel sink. Friends off to one side at our old kitchen table seem happy and it they're not, we just pour more bourbon....

We worked with an architect friend, and were influenced by a favorite space, the Yale Center for British Art: the palette and the quiet feeling of the materials were what we tried to emulate, even as almost every material in the museum was switched for something else. Tennessee Golden Oak became vertical grain fir (oak today isn't Louis Kahn's oak), travertine became cork (who wants to stand on stone?), brutalist concrete became soapstone (who wants to worry about sealing concrete). Steel is still steel! The cream Aga that we have had for years dictated the choice of the biscuit fireclay farm sink and the cream ceramic subway tiles.

I have this idea that it's okay to mix a lot of materials if the palette is restrained, or it's fine to mix a lot of colors if the number of materials is restrained, but I'd be interested to see examples of lots of materials AND lots of colors working well. But that's just me.





sawkille stools


sawkille stools








I'll list materials in a subsequent post. Again, sorry for the many pictures: I get cross-eyed trying to post these things! Let me know what you think. Except maybe you, marcolo ;)


clipped on: 05.11.2011 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2011 at 12:46 pm

RE: Banquette Seating - love it or hate it? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: marcolo on 03.04.2011 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Banquettes are super cute. Two advantages: They generally occupy less space for the same number of diners than a standalone table and chairs. Second, you can put in morgue drawers below for extra storage.

Main Street traditional kitchen

Custom Swagged Valances. Banquette Seat & Back Cushions traditional kitchen


clipped on: 03.07.2011 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2011 at 05:17 pm

RE: In the middle of kitchen remodel - opinions needed! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: circuspeanut on 02.11.2011 at 03:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not to second-guess your carpenters, but in the same scenario, we actually added a newer, stronger header to avoid the post-in-room scenario. This meant we had to add a new post on the foot of the peninsula by the wall, and it juts out into the counter space. But it's behind our faucet and this way we could avoid a post where we didn't want it in the center of the room. Something for you to consider maybe?
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Post position aside, is there a reason you need a pony wall at all in that spot? We put shelving on the back side of the peninsula cabinets and got a wider peninsula and a ton of extra storage out of it.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 02.21.2011 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2011 at 03:08 pm

RE: In the middle of kitchen remodel - opinions needed! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: la_jan on 02.11.2011 at 03:40 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't understand why you need a post at all. Maybe you don't want to increase the size of the header to carry the load? That would mean the opening would show the header.

We had a wall here between the dining room and kitchen. We did the same type of thing and supported the larger header on each side of the opening. Even though we see the header, at least it feels more open without the post.



clipped on: 02.21.2011 at 03:03 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2011 at 03:04 pm

RE: Beadboard Ceiling paint finish? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: boxerpups on 01.07.2011 at 07:07 am in Kitchens Forum

SemiGloss here. I am having one put in...I can not wait.
Here are some ideas.

GJ Kitchen blog

House Beautiful Mag


An Urban Cottage Blog
Beadboard ceiling


Beadboard ceiling
clipped on: 02.16.2011 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2011 at 08:06 pm