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All done! Yana's Arlington Cherry Decora/Hawaiian Green Kitchen

posted by: yanalg on 10.07.2007 at 09:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally got around to take the "all finished" photos of my kitchen. I kept a blog of the progress (or oftentimes, the lack thereof) for my family and friends, so I am attaching the link. All the gory details are there, as well as the photos of the kitchen in the original state (previous owners' decor) as well as the intermediate stage (how we modified it till we had the cash to pay for the new one).

I started planning at the end of August 2006. I was all done at the end of January and finalized everything by the start of March. Actual remodeling started at the end of April and were completely done in the middle of September. The kitchen was 95% functional by the end of July, it just took a while to finish off the minor (mostly cosmetic) details. Major delay was the granite, we had to wait 2 months between the template and the install. And even then they screwed up and had to come back.

Many thanks for those who who have finished their remodel but continue to come back and offer their advice, and most importantly pictorial testimonials! I found this forum in the very early stages of the planning and even though I knew what I wanted and DH and I designed the space, I still picked up a lot of nifty ideas (like hiding the phone in a cabinet!) on this forum.

The details:

Appliances (DW, microwave, range, fridge, hood): all GE Monogram.
-the fridge is 42"
-the range is 6 burner and a griddle option
-the Advantium is the 120 model

The sink is Galaxy Tools Ticor S405-DR; the faucet is Brizo Floriano in stainless steel finish (e-bay seller 5borough). The airswitch (also stainless steel) came from GalesburgElectric.com. The disposal is GE 1HP continuous feed.

My installer supplied the light cans. The pendants are made by Access Lighting, bought as a close-out from lamps-lighting on ebay.

The paint is BM Tyler Taupe.

The pulls were purchased on ebay from Contempo Living (a great seller!).

Granite is Hawaiian Green/ aka Tropical Green/ Kerala Green/ Verde Laura.

Cabinets are from Decora, Cherry, Arlington stain. Blumotion, full extension are standard features with this cabinet line.

We kept the "old" floor, as it was replaced just before we bought the house by the PO. It is just fine (ceramic 12x12 tile) and it covers a good chunk of the first floor so it would be very wasteful and a pain too to replace it.

The floor plan remained the same to what the previous kitchen was - what I mean by that is that no walls were removed. The PO had a eat-in kitchen but with the formal dining room next door, I would've much more preferred more cabinets (especially since there was no pantry closet) and counter space. So the new kitchen now has all 4 walls plus a peninsula. Basically it is 2 L shaped bits. The sink/range walls are 11X9 (old kitchen), and the fridge/12" side walls are 9X8. The peninsula is 5X2.

The final cost of this project came to just under 43K. Note: DH works for GE and we got a VERY good discount on the appliances. Original budget was 40K, but GE had a price increase that we didn't anticipate, and we decided to splurge on the full granite backsplash. Besides those two items, despite all the surprises, it cost us maybe $300 more than we planned. No regrets on the full backslash, a bit annoying about the price increase, but what can you do? The kitchen is very much loved, and it truly is the center of the house.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I think this about covers it! Yana

Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen blog with photos

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 10:41 pm

RE: sink: how far from edge of counter (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: glad on 10.20.2007 at 07:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

a fabricator i went to see last week actually drew me a picture. she wrote 3-4" off the front, 4-5" behind.. she said it can vary a little by sink/faucet specs/needs.( i was trying to figure out if i'd have enough room behind the faucet if i used a granite backsplash.)

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 10:30 pm

RE: cabinet showroom visits - questions to ask? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 10.19.2007 at 02:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

How long have you been in business?
May I see actual installed kitchens that you've done?
What's the most expensive kitchen you've done and what did it involve?
What's the least expensive kitchen you've done and what strategies did you use to stay under budget?
In what order expense wise would you rank the cabinets you sell? Which are the best value? What does best value mean to you?
What's the most expensive line you sell and why?
What type of training does your KD have and how long have they been with you?
Do you work with specific contractors or are you open to working with one of my own choosing?
Tell me about a kitchen that you have done that had major problems and how your firm handled those issues?
Tell me about the most demanding customer you've had and the kitchen that they had done with you?

The cabinets themselves are less important than the KD and the firm you choose to do them. I know a lot of these questions sound like a job interview---and it IS! You need to make sure that the company you choose to do your kitchen is on the same wavelength as you as far as your expectations of budget and problem solving and as long as the cabinets are decent quality, the experience will be OK. Maybe not glitch free, but OK. The best qualty cabinets at a budget price with a firm that doesnt' follow up and lowballed you on the intial price to get their foot in the door won't make for a happy experience. Find out now how they handle the stress of your interview. It's only going to get more complicated as the job goes on.

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 09:40 pm

RE: Isn't there a Backsplash Gallery? I need ideas (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rmlanza on 10.20.2007 at 08:09 am in Kitchens Forum

There's a backsplash slideshow in the finished kitchens blog. Check out the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: finished backsplashes in the FKB

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 09:35 pm

RE: Corian undermount sink with granite countertop (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: gibby3000 on 10.19.2007 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Have you considered a Karran sink? Alot like Corian but I'm told more "durable". I have a Corian sink at home and Karran at my lake cabin. I like both of them - I don't like hard sinks either. The thing I liked about the Corian sink was the seamless integration with the Corian counter.

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 09:24 pm

don't forget your doorstops, bumpers, transom chains

posted by: jaynesb on 11.30.2007 at 10:05 am in Kitchens Forum

Just thought I'd remind you about checking for doorstop, bumper, and transom chain needs. Once cabinets and doors were in place, I realized just how many places I have where my doors or knobs will end up bumping into neighboring things and making marks or dents.

A transom chain gets installed in a cabinet and even though I've got some spacers, there are places where I don't want a cabinet door to swing past a certain point. (I did learn about hinges for the opposite case, when I want a door to swing open wider)

Some of my new doors, knobs or handles could bump into neighboring door trims and walls so we've walked around to figure out whether we want dome bumpers, wall-mounted door stops.

Just thought I'd mention it because we turned out to need a lot of these.

jayne

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 09:16 pm

Please review my scope of work for GC

posted by: mls99 on 11.30.2007 at 05:54 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm about to meet with prospective GCs. I've worked with 2 of the 3 guys I'm interviewing before; the other I found on Angie's list. Please tell me what I'm missing in this scope of work - I'll also give them the plan of the cabinets and appliances, and specs for appliances. Thank you!

1. Obtain all required permits and inspections
2. Remove and dispose of old kitchen and appliances - keeping dishwasher
3. Replace windows in dining room and kitchen, and remove/dispose of old windows and window treatments
4. Close off doorway to sitting room
5. Open up existing doorway to dining room: remove wall to dining room, and patch ceiling, floor, and walls
6. Plumbing:
6a. Remove baseboard heat in kitchen
6b. Tie off plumbing for old sink, disposal, and dishwasher
6c. New plumbing for sink, disposal, dishwasher, fridge on inside wall
7. Electrics:
7a. Confirm 40A circuit is sufficient
7b. Wire up cooktop, hood, oven, microwave, dishwasher, disposal (with air switch), wine fridge, fridge, toekick heater
7c. Wire up fluorescent lights on ceiling, undercabinet lights on inside and outside walls, incabinet lights in wall cupboards, light switches near eating bar
7d. Replace brown sockets with white
7e. Wire up 1 additional white sockets on window wall
8. Refinish floor in kitchen, dining room, sitting room
9. Clean and prepare walls for paint
10. Build and install IKEA cabinets
11. Install appliances (cooktop, hood, oven, microwave, dishwasher, disposal, wine fridge, fridge, toekick heater)
12. Template and install countertops
13. Install drop-in sink, faucet, and undersink water filter
14. Paint ceiling and walls in kitchen, dining room, sitting room, halls
15. Install glass backsplash behind sink and cooktop

All fixtures/cabinets/appliances/backsplash to be provided by client.

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 09:13 pm

Granite fabricator said my requirements are unreasonable!

posted by: dandan74 on 11.30.2007 at 01:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had the fabricator did a small vanity first and there are some issues I want them to fix. Based on this job, I gave them a list of requirements for my kitchen countertop. She came back and said those requirements are impossible to meet and she does not want my business anymore. Am I being too picky?
Here is her reply:
As I stated in our previous conversation, the requirements that you are requesting cannot be accepted as part of our contract. We cannot be responsible for any color variations, fillers, pits, fissures or any other characteristics that are to be expected from a natural product. Your expectations of perfection in a imperfect product is impossible.

Here is my list:
Requirements:
1) Seams need to be flat and butted tight.
2) 1.5 overhang
3) Use clear caulk, not colored or white caulk between backsplash and counter, between backsplash and wall. Some of the places in bathroom need to be re-caulked.
4) Owner to present when the templates are placed on the slabs. Owner to decide seam placement, fabricator to find ways to match the movement, ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seams. Owner prefers to find a big slab with no seams.
5) Fabricator to make sure the seams between granite and stove/range are minimum
6) Owner to approve the granite slabs.
7) Fabricator to make sure there are no scratches, pits or cracks. Chips need to be filled.
8) Fabricator to make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
9) Fabricator to make sure the overhang is consistent.
10) No seams on garden window and behind or near stove on the wall.

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clipped on: 11.30.2007 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2007 at 08:59 pm

RE: Miele owners: self-clean or perfect-clean (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: trailrunner on 06.14.2007 at 04:33 pm in Appliances Forum

I have the double ovens and the Perfect Clean. I also have a baking stone that I got on Amazon. It is the right size for the oven racks and makes great use of the 500 degree convection bake to do pizzas and bread. We bake our homemade pizzas for 8 minutes and they are wonderful. I use the rottiserie and have had no problem wiping up the Perfec Clean surface. The product to use for cleaning with a Dobie pad is called Citrus Magic. It is what the appliance store suggested and works very well. It is true that if you let stuff bake on and turn black it is harder to get it off but the C.M really does the trick. Hope this helps. Caroline

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clipped on: 11.29.2007 at 07:03 am    last updated on: 11.29.2007 at 07:03 am

RE: May I see pictures of your undermount sinks with negative rev (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: patches123 on 11.20.2007 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is mine. Its a Moen Stone sink.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 11.29.2007 at 06:55 am    last updated on: 11.29.2007 at 06:55 am

RE: May I see pictures of your undermount sinks with negative rev (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jamesk on 11.20.2007 at 12:40 am in Kitchens Forum

A negative reveal means that the countertop extends slightly beyond the basin edge. None of the sink mounting flange is visible.

Here is a photo of my Blanco SuperSingle sink with a negative reveal:

There are two schools of thought on undermount reveals. Those who think like me, preferring a negative reveal because there's just one less edge to gather debris or require scrubbing.

The other group prefers a positive reveal (where a small amount of the flat mounting flange is visible inside the sink cutout in the countertop), reasoning that there are no hidden places for debris or grime to collect.

My experience is that little or no grime collects beneath the edge of the sink opening with my negative reveal (I never find accumulated crud there). I also think it's an architecturally cleaner look, with one less layer of detail.

Your choice will just depend on your personal preference.

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clipped on: 11.29.2007 at 06:54 am    last updated on: 11.29.2007 at 06:55 am

RE: when cabinets done do appliances go in before cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: teedup1 on 10.10.2007 at 01:56 am in Kitchens Forum

The order of the process for us was:

1. Install cabinets
2. Appliances (all of them) must be on-site with dead-on installation specs/instructions available.
3. Install plywood deck top (if it's needed/used)
4. Sink must be on-site with a cutout pattern availabe.
5. Template made for granite/stone
6. Install stone/granite counter (sink cutout was done at shop)
7. Drill holes for faucets, etc. (done at the house)
8. Install sink
9. Install appliances
10. Finish plumbing hookups

If all that goes well, breathe easy and enjoy.

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clipped on: 11.28.2007 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2007 at 10:27 pm

RE: Miele owners: self-clean or perfect-clean (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: trainz on 06.14.2007 at 01:28 pm in Appliances Forum

fyi from the Miele chef on perfect vs. self cleaning

It's been documented that people in the US use the self-clean feature of their ovens about 1.5 times a year. However, I find that most people want to make sure that option is available even if they rarely use it. The technology worked into our self clean oven is excellent. A built-in catalytic convertor senses how dirty your oven is and will only clean for as long as is necessary. The catalytic convertor also cuts down substantially on cleaning odors, while the heavy oven door insulates the oven so that your kitchen won't get hot during the self cleaning process.

However, if you are a person who wipes out the oven after each use, the Perfect Clean option may work for you. Perfect Clean is a bonded glass coating which cleans easily. However, if you let drippings sit for awhile or if you heat up the oven before cleaning it thoroughly, it will be more difficult to clean.

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clipped on: 11.28.2007 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2007 at 08:36 pm

RE: Everything in its place (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plllog on 11.26.2007 at 12:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Trays, serving and mixing bowls, teapots, pitchers, dishtowels, bags and wraps, paper towels, containers, cookie sheets, baking pans and molds, big utensils like rolling pin, sifter, masher/ricer, spatter guard, collanders and strainers, whisks, and ladles. And do you have a mandoline? food mill? skewers? Cleaning supplies. Picnic supplies.

I'm at the same stage you are :)

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clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 12:05 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 12:05 pm

RE: The elusive dishtowel (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: mnhockeymom on 08.25.2007 at 05:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi All - Saw this thread and thought I'd chime in - I came up with a solution in my last house and am repeating it in our current renovation project.

The first time around, my island was opposite my sink so I had a "niche" or recessed area built into my island's side - I used single stall shower curtain tension rods from Target (can get anywhere and can get different "finishes") - I used two rods and expanded each of them to fit into my niche to "hang" them - on the upper one we put our paper towel rolls (we could fit two "double" rolls side by side) and on the lower rod, I hung two kitchen towels. It worked great and, given the many compliments we had on it, I have to give credit to BH&G since I saw it in one of their kitchen issues long ago!!

This time around, my sink is in my island and the island goes off at an angle on either side of the sink so I had my cabinet maker include a niche in one of those sides and we're doing the same thing with the shower rods. My contractor said he's never seen anything like it and my cabinet maker loved it so much he's now suggesting it to his clients.

I hope this all makes sense since I can't find any pics from the last house with it and the cabs are delivered but no yet installed in the current reno.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 11:09 pm

RE: The elusive dishtowel (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: springwater on 08.23.2007 at 09:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I hate those scrubbies and sponges. I thought of placing a plastic lined drawer above the open cubby with the slide out towel rack for the sponges and scrubbies. This way all the cleaning and wiping paraphenalia would be all in one place. Haven't figured out how to get air to the drawer. Maybe place some holes in bottom of drawer. This drawer would be over the open cubby so maybe would help dry out the sponges. I even thought of a nite lite incorporated in the design but who wants to see a light shining all the time? I'm in need of ideas how to solve this problem. I've never been to anyone's house yet that has a workable but aesthetically pleasing solution.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 10:57 pm

The elusive dishtowel

posted by: springwater on 08.23.2007 at 09:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'd like some ideas where to hang the dishtowel(s)--you know the one you reach for a million times during the day. I'm about to remodel my kitchen and thought about creating an open cubby hole with the slide out towel rack. I thought the dishtowels would be open to the air so they could dry but still be accessible. Are any of you doing this or do you have some better ideas? This is such a small thing but seems to be a constant anonyance in my kitchen.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 09:49 pm

RE: Island pendant heights (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: patti823 on 10.03.2007 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is open to the LR. My pendants are adjustable height, so I can pull them up and down whenever I want. I think you will like the pendants a lot better than the cans. I have cans in the rest of my kitchen. Here is a picture.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 06:25 pm

RE: Griddle with rangetop (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: brownli on 11.24.2007 at 11:59 am in Kitchens Forum

We have a Wolf 48" and chose 4 burners with a 22" griddle and love love love it. Your lifestyle/cooking style should lend to your decision on which way to go. I've never ever had 4 burners going at the same time while wishing for one more; in fact, I only occasionally have all four going at the same time - but that's my cooking style. We tend to use our griddle frequently for so much - not just breakfast but for other meals as well - sandwiches, vegetables, rice - think hibatchi style; reheating pizza's or browning other breads like bagles, english muffins, etc. I do once a month cooking and can cook large batches of pancakes, breakfast sandwiches, breakfast and lunch burritos.

As for cleanup, on a daily basis after each use and the griddle has cooled down a bit, I splash some water on it and use a dough scraper to scrape off the water and any food particles (keeping my hand covered with a hot glove or small towel because of the steam created by the heat/water). It cleans up in less than a minute after the initial cooldown. The catch tray is easy to remove on my oven and cleans easily as well.

I think some people believe you have to clean the griddle back to it's initial shine after each use, hence the concern on the cleaning. But seriously, you toss water on it and (depending on width of griddle) with 3-6 scrapes of the dough scraper you're done with no effort - literally less than a minute....unless you are just a slow scraper, lol! You can on occasion use a griddle brick to revamp the shine some, but once cooked on, the griddle will never fully return to it's original shine.

Either way - hey it's a new rangetop! Gotta love that!

Oh, and our griddle does have a cover which we typically leave on when the griddle is not in use. During meals when not using the griddle, it's a great landing spot as well.

Good luck.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 01:12 pm

RE: Is sinlge bowl still ok with no prep sink? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: lily1342 on 11.24.2007 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had this same question back last winter when I was planning my kitchen. Would I regret a single bowl when I would have no prep sink? So I compromised and got the Kohler Smart Divide which is a double bowl with a very low divider. Now that I've been using it for awhile, I realize that I would still rather have a large single bowl. While I like the Kohler Smart Divide sink very much, and it is a whole lot better and easier to use than what it replaced, I find that I'm still banging larger dishes on the divider even though it's very short, and that's a little annoying. So, if I had it to do over again, I would just get what I wanted in the first place - a large single bowl. Even without a prep sink. As others noted, you can always put a plastic dishpan in the large single bowl for those times when you need the use of a double bowl.

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clipped on: 11.24.2007 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 01:10 pm

RE: Miele self clean oven as easy to wipe down as Perfect Clean? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rococogurl on 11.24.2007 at 07:22 pm in Appliances Forum

Prior to purchasing my oven I did a good deal of research including several conversations with Miele customer service. I was advised by them to go with the Perfect Clean over Self-Clean as a direct answer to the same question.

They told me the PC would wipe out well. My previous oven had self-clean and I had to spend a good deal of time cleaning it after the cycle -- the reason for my question.

The Miele wipes out very well. So do the racks and glides. I wiped it out today before reusing it after Thanksgiving.

Nothing goes into the dishwasher, however. I use Palmolive Dish soap and a microfiber cloth or a Dobie for anything stubborn.

It completely comes apart for cleaning, very easily. I've done that only once, after using the rotisserie for 2 chickens. If you use the rotisserie a lot you will need to do the take apart. Otherwise I haven't needed to take it apart fully, just do spots and wipe down the glides and racks.

Once in a while it calls for 500 degrees for 1 hour to clear the catalytic converter in the back -- I do this when it gets smelly.

The broiler coil unscrews and basically swings down so the plate above it can be cleaned. It's not difficult but must be done carefully.

The most difficult surfaces in the oven, strangely, are the lights. They get a good deal of spatter and need to be cleared.

I find the PC much easier than my previous self-cleaning oven. Cannot say how it compares to the Miele SC. I am happy not having an oven going to 900 degrees in a wood cabinet -- others like it. I haven't seen complaints.

I'm very pleased with the PC choice and recommend it. I don't regret not having gone with the SC at all. Never think about it.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 09:59 am

RE: Cabinet styles... (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: bob_cville on 10.01.2007 at 12:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sally,

My new cabinets are a Shaker style made from quarter sawn red oak. I purchased them through Scherr's Cabinets which I found about through here on the Garden Web. My door panels are QS oak plywood, but the drawer fronts are reverse raised panels, and the doors could have been upgraded to reversed raised panels too. However Scherr's only produces frameless cabinets, so if you are set on face-frame cabinets they won't work for you.

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clipped on: 11.24.2007 at 10:24 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2007 at 10:24 pm

RE: Dish & pot drawer sizes: 30's or 36's??? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mindstorm on 09.19.2007 at 12:12 am in Kitchens Forum

I have 36" drawers for the pots and pans as well as for dishes. I also have 30" drawers that I keep other things in such as tupperware and a few serving dishes. They're very useful too but the 36" are far preferable and I think I'd have been unhappy with 30"ers for the dishes/pans drawers. Not just that, but I have frameless cabinets so these drawers are about as wide as I could possibly hope for - were you to get a framed construction, the drawer part of your 30" would be narrower yet.

That said, I have good solid 3/4" construction on the cabinets and drawer bottoms with 110lb drawer glides. If the cabinets aren't going to be that substantial, then go with the 30" by all means - it is not useless by any stretch of the imagination but I think that you'll be happier with the 36".

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clipped on: 11.24.2007 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2007 at 09:54 pm

RE: Dish & pot drawer sizes: 30's or 36's??? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dseng on 09.18.2007 at 11:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

We had 36" pot and pan drawers in our last kitchen remodel - as long as you have decent drawer construction and good drawer guides it will be fine. The weight argument sounds odd...

The kitchen remodel we're currently planning will have a pair of 36" pot and pan drawers. Dovetailed drawers and Blum Tandem glides will hold our heavy cast iron and Le Creuset pots and pans.

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clipped on: 11.24.2007 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2007 at 09:53 pm

RE: Stainless vs. whatever for the kitchen sink (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: many_hats on 10.04.2007 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had always had ss sinks but while researching products for our reno came across a lot of talk about Blanco Silgranit sinks. We've had ours--its a 1 3/4 sink in anthracite color (black)--for three months now and love it. We have rather hard water and it doesn't show spots at all. You can put hot pots in it, it's easy to clean (Vim or Soft Scrub are recommended) and I have the grid in the big side which was worth the big bucks for it.

I'm glad I didn't automatically go with ss and explored other options.

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clipped on: 11.24.2007 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2007 at 09:49 pm

RE: Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: liz_h on 07.30.2007 at 01:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think that one of my best storage ideas was to keep all of my pantry items that are used a bit at a time under my main prep counter. I mean things like oils, vinegars, spices, baking powder, all purpose flour, etc. My pantry is a few steps away, but it contains things that I tend to use a whole package of at once - things like dried beans, canned tomatoes, etc. We also keep foods there that are used right at the table, like cereal, snacks, etc.

Here are a couple of pics of my island. Drawer fronts will be added in the future, along with a few more drawers and the prep sink. This of course brings up one of the best kitchen storage ideas ever - as many drawers as possible in your lower cabinets, preferably designed so that they don't eat up a lot of space with the drawer glides, etc.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 10:52 pm

RE: Omega or Wood Mode Cabinets??? Any experience? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lascatx on 09.27.2007 at 09:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a mix of Wood Mode and Brookhaven frameless. From what I've seen. I think I got a pretty good value. Part of me wishes I had gone all WM, but our KD said that in painted finishes, the difference wasn't really worth it. Basically, it amounted to a natural maple finish on the interior and the lifetime warrranty instead of 10 years. Both are good quality, but I especially love the cherry WM on the island and the hutch.

We looked at Omega early on. It was too far apart from the Wood Mode to do a head to head comparison.

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 09:50 pm

RE: Corner cabinet with revolving DOOR (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 09.28.2007 at 08:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have had one in our kitchen for the last 12 years and have had no problems with it at all...and we have probably the cheapest cabinets around (Aristokraft)--builder grade (all that was offered to us by the builder...*sigh* if only I had known then what I know now) Most of my pots & pans are stored in it, so it's not exactly lightly loaded.

Two things though:

* While the lazy susan shelves are fairly tight to the cabinet wall, I think something did fall off a shelf and w/this setup I cannot reach in to try to find it.

* Several times a month I pinch a finger b/w the door & the cabinet wall--but not seriously (usually when I'm not paying attention as I open the lazy susan). However, one of my children also pinched their finger pretty badly...but only once!

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 09:46 pm

RE: Would you install a Black Quartz countertop? Please help! (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: callaloo on 11.01.2007 at 02:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

FWIW, maybe think about getting a quartz that "reads" black, but isn't actually pure black. I have "Green River" Silestone in my kitchen, which is a mix of green and black, but it mostly looks black (and not-too-shiny at that). My husband, who is blind to spills, dribbles coffee and crumbs all over the place, and I have to work to find those dratted spills to clean them up.

Of course, it's hard to get a read based on just a 3"x3" sample, so you may need to find showrooms where your proposed colors are displayed on a larger scale.

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 07:44 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 07:44 pm

RE: Would you install a Black Quartz countertop? Please help! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mariposatraicionera on 10.23.2007 at 12:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Didn't I answer someone on the Silestone before?

Anyway, Ebony Pearl is what I have, and it really doesn't show finger prints or smudges. I wanted dark/black but didn't want to deal with every smudge. This gave me the look and easy upkeep.

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 07:42 pm

RE: Would you install a Black Quartz countertop? Please help! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tonilynne on 10.22.2007 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think it depends on the pattern and the finish. Honed quartz will show more streaks, especially with a dark color. It also depends on if you are looking for an almost solid black or black mixed with other colors. My counters are Rosa Grey, and they are a mix of black, white, cream, and brown. I chose them because they show NOTHING, and they contrast with the cabinets yet they aren't the focal point of the room. I wanted something reminiscent of a formica pattern but with more durability, and this fit the bill.

But really, I have to clean them even if they don't look like they need it, just to make sure I haven't missed something.

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clipped on: 11.23.2007 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2007 at 07:41 pm

RE: Tell me how you handle storage under your sink? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kailleanm on 09.18.2007 at 12:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are going to mount our sink cabinet door on pull out hardware so the whole area under the sink will pull out like a big drawer. There is room to accommodate 2 tall, skinny garbage/recycle bins on one side with space for cleaning supplies on the other.

I got this idea from the Ikea Fans site.

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 10:42 pm

RE: Tell me how you handle storage under your sink? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: chmpgntst on 09.18.2007 at 08:30 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, springwater, this is a question I've been waiting for!

One of my goals in my new kitchen was to get the under-sink area organized. I was always losing stuff in the back.

I used a pull-out, two-tiered shelf from the container store. The bottom shelf is nice and deep so things don't fall over, and if something leaks or spills, it is contained. The top shelf is shallower and great for things like sponges, dishcloths, and random small stuff.

I didn't have enough room for another pull-out on the right due to the disposal, so I just put a plastic box from container store. When I get inspired, I will probably re-arrange so that the plastic box has the cleaning supplies I use all around the house -- so I can grab it and go.

I have had this set-up for a couple months now and it has served me well!

This is all under an Elkay stainless apron sink. It is not the deepest sink in the world, so YMMV. I just measured and my cabinet door opening below the apron is 20.5 inches high.

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HTH!

Amy

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 10:38 pm

RE: Pantry Cabinet--Do you have one? Do you like it? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: lascatx on 10.01.2007 at 01:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've had 2 pantry cabinets and a several step-in or walk-in pantries. I also looked at the pantry cabinet you have linked to. That would be my last choice. There IS a lot of wasted space and I think the use of space is the most limited and cumbersome of all the options.

My favorite of what I've had is the current pantry cabinet arrangement with a 24" tall split with an open cabinet above and several roll out trays in the lower 2/3-3/4 and a 12" pullout tower -- similar to the one beatrix posted above. I store dry goods, boxes and things in the rollouts, have baskets for potatoes, onions and garlic in the bottom one, extra stuff in the upper portion (including the toaster oven from the remodel that we don't want to get rid of but don't want out on the counter), and the cans and bottles go in the tower. I do have baking supplies in my baking area and my spices in a drawer located for baking and cooking, but this is most organized, easiest to use, easiest to find things and everything where I need it to be system I've had. The fridge is on the same wall, so my food storage is pretty cetralized.

As for the others, here's a quick summary of what worked and what didn't:

This house, pre-remodel -- corner walk-in with shelves on 2 sides. The shelves were too deep, creating huge corners and too much area that was hard to get to or where things got lost. The guys never seemed to get where things were supposed to go no mater how often I cleaned out and reorganized. I used baskets, bins and shelf risers to try to cluster and organize, but anything in the back was still hard to find. The guys wound up shoving things into any available space, making matters worse. We considered reworking the shelving and storage options, but relocating to pantry cabinets allowed us to open up a baking space and eventually to move the cooktop off the island. It also opened up the room since that corner moved back about 2 feet.

Last house -- walk in L-shaped pantry with shelves along one side and deep shelves in the back. The shelves were shallower, so less got lost, but it was a long and shallow run you had to walk up and down to gett he things you needed. The biggest problem with this pantry was that it was across a hallway from the kitchen and then extended about 7 or 8 feet back. The cooktop and sink were in the middle and the fridge was at the opposite end. I cook by feel as much as by recipes, and either way, I would find myself running back and forth and it was exhausting. And I really don't think the storage was as good as what I have here in less space (7 or 8 feet of narrow shelving requires 7 or 8 feet of aisle space for walking in front of them).

CA House -- 36" wide, 24" deep builder's choice pantry cabinet -- divided into upper and lower with adjustable deep shelves, but no organizers. We used Rubbermaid baskets on glides to find things from eye level down -- the poor man's rollouts. We thought we'd get the wood ones if the idea worked, but we wanted to try them first, then wound up not being in the house that long. Without basket or rollouts, the back half was wasted. Who can dig back through 24" of stuff to find something inthe back when they want to fix a quick meal? I tried lining things down either side, but you can't see things towards the back very well, especially if you don't want to waste a l;ot of headroom above them. But if you love sticking your head into caves, give this method a shot.

Rental before that -- a wide corner cabinet, 4 to 5 feet, deep in the center back and very shallow on the sides. I don't remember this one in great detail, but I do remeber working the sides as they went back and leaving some open space in the middle so we could find things. We would up putting shelves in the garage for extra storage.

my first house -- a step-in pantry with shelves on 2 sides, one set shallow and a short set of deep shelves. There was an old ironing board space that I used for spices. This was an older house and I suspect the pantry was created by lifting the water heater towards the attic, but not all the way into the attic. When the water heater dies and flooded the pantry, the replacement was lifted INTO the attic. The pantry was small by my current standards, but it worked well for one or two people.

You can see that none of these spaces or sizes in inherently good or bad. The strengths and weaknesses are often in the planning and execution or in matching the space to your needs and the way you are used to working. Think about what you need to store, and how and when you will use it. Does one type make that easier? Will doors or pullouts block important traffic flow? Will shelves or baskets be adjustable, deep enough to hold the things they need to hold and not too deep so things get lost (which probably means having some different depths or using some other cabients).

The only pantry I never want to have again is the one across the hall and another small room deep. But I would love to have the larger laundry room that was right next to it. :D

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 10:08 pm

RE: The never MT (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: rmlanza on 09.11.2007 at 09:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a tilt out and that's where my tube of hand lotion goes. True, in the winter time my hands get severely dry and using the dishsoap doesn't help but they would be very dry even if I used hand soap. That's what the lotion is for. And I use a lotion that doesn't feel greasy. I won't have any bottles sitting on my new countertop because my sink is on a peninsula with a counter height eating bar on the other side and open to the family room. I want a clean uncluttered look. And anyway, we have a powder room right around the corner with hand soap if need be. I have a family of 5, too.

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 08:55 pm

RE: Help 'Digesting' Kitchen Quote (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tommyboy7 on 09.18.2007 at 11:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the quick responses. I would have posted prices in my first quote, but thought I might be breaking some sort of unwritten rule.

So, without further ado, here are the particulars (in no particular order):

Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Kitchen Size: 10-1/2 x 13
Total Budget: $20,000 ~ give or take a few thousand (if the extra expense is worth it). And, this number was never given to the KD.

Construction Cost Break Down:
Demolition Work: $2400.00
Miscellaneous Carpentry: $1235.00
Drywall Work: $3024.00 just installation and mudding and taping. Does not include texturing or priming / painting.
Cabinets: $9969.00
Plastic Laminate Tops: $2848.00
Total: $19476.00

No electrical or plumbing is included in the quote, as it will be handled by me (its already updated and up to code). I will purchase and install the lighting, sink and faucet, garbage disposal, microwave and new dishwasher. Flooring will be installed by others. It is these extra items that will obviously push me well over my initial budget.

As mentioned in my first post, I didnt have a problem with the overall quote until it was broken down. More specifically, I really have no problem with the carpentry or cabinet portions. And I really have nothing to compare the pricing of the laminate countertops with. Therefore, for now, my concerns are with the prices for demo work and the drywall work. I am of the opinion that that these may be the two areas that he "hid" his design and project management fees, and therefore there may be no way to lower these costs. (Note: I certainly expect him to get paid for all of his hard work Im not looking to get things for free.)

My goal in this endeavor here is to find a way to get my wife the kitchen she wants, to fit the entire project to within 10 or 20% of budget, and to reward the KD for a design that we really love.

At this point I will stop rambling and let you make any comments or ask questions

Thanks in advance for any and all help, and I apologize for any unintentional whining that I may be doing.

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 08:23 pm

RE: Wall oven: GE Monogram vs. Electrolux (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: luster on 11.22.2007 at 03:27 pm in Appliances Forum

I work for Monogram and can answer your question and point out some of the selling points for the ZET1.

First, Electrolux does NOT make the ZET1 or any Monogram product. The ZET1 is made by Monogram.

Here are some of the selling points for the Monogram ZET1.

1. The ZET1 comes with three racks on full extension glides. These racks are also self clean...meaning you can leave them in the oven during the self-clean mode. This is a Monogram exclusive feature.

2. The ZET1 has two light columns containing 3 halogen lights each to provide direct light to all levels.

3. Capacity is 4.4 cubic feet using the AHAM (Assoc. of Home Appliance Manufacturers) methodology for measuring oven capacity. This is one of the largest in the industry.

4. ZET1 has European convection with a reversing fan. The fan blade on the convection fan is specially engineered to reverse directions periodically to provide more even heat distribution throughout the oven cavity. An additional benefit is that you do not have to turn the food during cooking as is typically required with most convection ovens.

5. Preheat time to 350 degrees is approximately 8 1/2 minutes which is faster than any oven with a hidden bake element that I know of.

6. In addition to the appearance, many people like knobs because they are quite simple to use/program. You turn one knob to select cooking mode, the other to select the temperature and press start.

I do not know much about the Electrolux oven. I'm sure it's a fine oven.

I do know that the ZET1 is a very popular oven that is highly regarded in the industry. I hope this has been helpful and you enjoy whichever oven you choose.

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clipped on: 11.22.2007 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2007 at 07:29 pm