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Unconventional kitchen gets its countertop

posted by: raro on 07.31.2011 at 01:32 am in Kitchens Forum

The stainless steel countertop and integral sink is in!
As you can see, there are tight quarters in the kitchen. The person at the sink may do the bump with the person at the range!
a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">Photobucket
The hole to the right of the sink is for the dishwasher. The gap to the left of the counter is for the range. The Kohler Karbon will be wall mounted in the two holes in the backsplash.

Photobucketintegral stainless steel sink and countertop
The rest of the counter top work space is the soapstone part of the hutch and there will also be a dining height end grain butcher block counter next to the fridge.Photobucket
This shows the hole where the fridge will be. The table will be jutting out from the shelves.
PhotobucketAlso, the pendant lights for over the dining table.
Photobucket

The cabinet maker began installing all the doors too. Appliances arrived (Miele speed oven and Miele dishwasher, both from the dealer dented or scratched list) including the incorrect model of fridge. Next week the plumber comes. And maybe the stone guys will be back to put up the marble ledge. Elsewhere, the glass guy installed the walls for the master and guest bath shower stalls, but that is not kitchen stuff....

My question for you all is what to do about trash. We generate pretty minimal waste. For true trash we currently have a door mounted wire rack that a plastic grocery bag sits in. We take it out every day. On the other door under the sink we have a compost bucket mounted. In our new kitchen the recycling bins will be right outside our kitchen door in pull out drawers in the bench in the entryway.

All we have available is the small space under the sink. On the left side, at 14" one runs into the pipe escutcheons and on the right side the escutcheons are at 17". Here is a picture of the space available. I am not sure if there is a tiny enough pull out drawer for one side or not. I am considering also the kind of setup that pulls out when you open the door, leaving the cover behind.Photobucket

I realize that most people devote more space to trash. We just do not have a lot of space available in that critical area. Calling all creative suggestions!

Also, I need suggestions for material for the fireplace hearths. I do not want it to compete with the other elements in the room. First thought was to put some sort of honed stone. I've brought home several sample stones and nothing looks right.

NOTES:

wallmount shelf-mount filter faucet
clipped on: 08.04.2011 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 08.04.2011 at 10:39 am

post script (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.24.2011 at 12:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

Of course, Glass goes great with the hybrid installation using Schluter's drain and Laticrete's Hydroban roll on waterproofing, as well. ;-)

Then you don't have to worry about the seam build up that David spoke of, and Laticrete WILL back the installation. Completely seamless.

NOTES:

roll-on membranes
clipped on: 05.16.2011 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2011 at 01:05 pm

tiny kitchen \ small appliance. Links to Other Threads about Them

posted by: davidro1 on 05.10.2011 at 03:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

1/
Many people think they have a small space kitchen.
Some really are eensy weensy.
In this thread I'll link to other threads about them.
For your specific project, open your own new thread.

2/
Small appliances have been around forever.
In this thread I'll link to other threads about them.
For your specific needs, post to the threads that deal with those topics.
To help track down reliable information about small appliances, in general, those threads need more activity.

3/
What to post here?
Any thread you find on these two topics.
Link to it.
This linking thread can be a starting point for those who "search and cannot find."

Here is one thread to start off :

Here is a link that might be useful: Art thou Happy with a smaller refrigerator (2008)

NOTES:

list
clipped on: 05.13.2011 at 06:32 am    last updated on: 05.13.2011 at 06:32 am

hidden faucet

posted by: GoofyYno on 05.11.2011 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

does anyone know of a faucet that lies flush with the counter and pulls out? I'd love to maintain a clean look on the island.

NOTES:

clean look
clipped on: 05.13.2011 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 05.13.2011 at 06:30 am

4-drawer cabinet for pots/pans instead of 3 drawers?

posted by: pickle2 on 04.28.2010 at 06:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone done a 4-drawer cabinet for their pots and pans? I could do a 5" top drawer (or drawers) for utensils/cutting boards, 7" drawer, and two 9" drawers. I measured the tallest pot I use normally (not the gigantic stockpot), and it's 8" tall. The cabinet would be 30" wide or so. We'll be doing frameless full custom with Blum full-extension/soft close drawers. What am I not considering?

I'm currently using an IKEA office piece as a temp kitchen piece. It has a 5" drawer (measured the front) that's perfect for utensils. No lost space.

There are no other cabinets with drawers on that cabinet run. There will be drawers around the L and across the kitchen.

NOTES:

drawers inside drawers
clipped on: 05.02.2011 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 05.02.2011 at 11:51 am

Bracing myself......here's my kitchen layout.

posted by: spider96 on 08.13.2010 at 08:48 am in Kitchens Forum

http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b418/Spidergirl96/

A few things to note:

I have a desk for future internet usage for the kids. I know people say they get clutered. I still think we need it.

The cabinets to the left of the sink are wider than the cabinets to the right. I'm looking into moving the window over the sink over to the left as far as it can go. (my builder is supposed to get back to me on that) It won't be totally centered, but I think I'd prefer it to being totally offset. If I'm wrong, please tell me.

The thing across from the pantry is a butlers pantry. I was planning to use it mainly as storage and just have drawers and cabinets.

The fridge doesn't show up in the pictures- it's just a bunch of lines. It's currently a 48 inch, but with an extra fridge in the mudroom, I'm wondering if I should go down in size. I want it to be built in, and I wish there was a 42 inch build in french door option. The only 42 inch built ins I've seen (like subzero) are side by side.

I have a feeling the entryway to the pantry should be on the wall parallel with the sink. It seems pretty inconvenint. THis floorplan is based off of our current floor plan, and the entry way to the pantry is over near the wall with the sink. Our current butler's pantry is actually just an extension of the counter top that the sink is on and the pantry is across from it. Does that make sense?

I know this layout probably needs a lot of improvements. I'm meeting with a kitchen designer tomorrow and she said she had a list of suggestions, ranging from drastic to small.

I'm a little scared to see what y'all have to say about this. Hold me.

NOTES:

list on Aug 13th at 11 am.
clipped on: 12.13.2010 at 04:42 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2010 at 04:42 pm

Angled range hoods / hoods that are not monolithic?

posted by: frenchman on 11.16.2009 at 02:14 am in Appliances Forum

NOTES:

describes my hood and behind-the-scenes machinery.
clipped on: 12.13.2010 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2010 at 04:36 pm

White Cabinets with White Countertops?

posted by: pugrolls on 06.18.2010 at 04:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello, wonderful GWers,

Of all the funny things, DH is now totally in love with the white cabinet/espresso island look. (Despite throwing hissy fits early in the planning process about how much he HATES white cabinets. Yes. He actually typed "HATES" in all capital letters when we were emailing about the kitchen design). In any event, I am delighted by this development and am going to run with it. So now the question becomes, what countertop?

I love love love the look of white carrera marble on white cabinets, but DH wants to go with something more bulletproof. So, OK. Does anyone have or have photos of white cabinets with white countertops other than marble? White quartz, maybe? I would love to see them, thanks!

But just to drool over marble a little....

NOTES:

white
clipped on: 08.12.2010 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2010 at 11:16 pm

I love the long stainless shelf above my range

posted by: segbrown on 07.06.2010 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, we've been using the kitchen for about 9 months now, and one of the things we have that's a little different than most is the 7-ft-long stainless shelf over the range. We have a big hood and warming lights over it. I thought I would give a report for any current kitchen planners.

Photobucket

Here it is with a couple of casseroles ready for the warming lights, and plenty more room:

Photobucket

Anyway, we use it as extra counter, storage for cooking supplies (oil -- though it's not optimal for oils, it is working--, s&p, measuring cups), storage for prep ingredients when cook ing ... The heat lamps are useful for so much -- keeping plates and dishes warm, thawing food, softening butter, keeping mugs of coffee warm while you're cooking pancakes, etc. And it's so big, we can do all these things at the same time if we need to.

The negative is that I *think* we aren't capturing quite as much in the hood as we would otherwise, but I'm not sure because we didn't have the hood before. It is certainly not a problem (smells and the like), but you'd have to think some would get lost. You could certainly make it with some holes in it if it is a worry.

Anyway, it's one of the most useful things we did, and it was only about $300, custom made. If you have the room, give it a thought.

NOTES:

Inox shelf - practical
clipped on: 07.06.2010 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2010 at 06:24 pm

Hood: puzzled by CFM/cost, perimeter suction & cleaning glass?

posted by: emily_mb on 07.01.2010 at 11:03 am in Appliances Forum

Futuro Futuro hoods supposedly pull 940 CFM and they are cheaper than other hoods such as Miele that report pulling 600 to 700 CFM. What gives? Are the CFM claims accurate? Could it be because their recommended installation height is lower (26" to 30") than the recommended heights of other hoods. Is that why they can claim higher CFM?

Should "perimeter suction" work better than the traditional system? It makes intuitive sense, but has anyone tested it?

Last but not least, do glass canopies get dirty every time you use the hood? How annoying is that?

NOTES:

amcook describes well
clipped on: 07.01.2010 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2010 at 04:38 pm

So -- what next?

posted by: palimpsest on 02.09.2010 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ok, we have talked about what is overexposed, in some regions, and what trends are cresting.

So, then, whats next in kitchen design?

When someone raised this question about furniture design, my answer was "not much until a new material or technology comes along", and I am wondering if this is the same for kitchens.

I don't think the kitchen forum is a cross-section of whats out there at all: there are materials out there that are embraced by designers and homeowners alike that are almost a four-letter word in here. And, I think, the Kitchen and Home Decorating forums have an anti professional designer bias. Not a strong one, but its there.

So what do you think...back to smaller tighter kitchen plans? Even bigger kitchens? More point of use kitchens? Increasing luxury of materials? More stealth kitchens? The "hidden" kitchen or the fully functional kitchen that has a suppressed presence in the house is something that is played with in the industry all the time, but rarely discussed here.

I am interested to know what people in the the kitchen forum think is coming up next.

NOTES:

faucet shelf
clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 01:01 pm

Who else has white kitchen fatigue?

posted by: reyesuela on 02.08.2010 at 03:46 am in Kitchens Forum

While I have always loved white kitchens as well as stained wood, I'm suffering from an increasing degree of white kitchen fatigue. If the 1970s was the age of harvest gold and avocado with dark wood, then 2004 to (my guess) 2014 will be the age of white cabinets, black counters, and white subway backsplashes. The white cabinets are either full overlay or inset, and the style is a square flat panel--shaker, beaded, whatever. Drawer pulls of the representative kitchen are cup pulls or knobs, and the finish is ORB. The floor is large-scale travertine. The hood is large and stainless or looks like a mantle.

The funny thing is, I LIKE all of these things, still--unlike the "Tuscan" kitchen, which I've always loathed. They're just getting a little stale, and I want to mix them up and throw in not-so-easy solutions.

Anyone else? What do you think is the "future dating trends" of the future?

I'd add stainless to the list, but I think it'll last as a mainstream trend. I think the time of highly figured granite has mostly come and gone--counters are going subtle and monochrome, for the most part. I wouldn't call it dated. I don't think it ever will be, as it wasn't a big enough trend to begin with, but it isn't on the edge anymore, either. Many of the custom colored appliances are in colors that will get dated, though, as awesome as they are to see (but not to live with...).

If you see something as overdone, are you doing it, too, or mixing it up a little?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 10:17 am

Pantry/cabinet organization hardware recs?

posted by: kitchen4champ on 01.08.2010 at 02:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

I'd love to hear advice and recommendations on the best brands for cabinet and pantry organization hardware.

I hear Blum is the best for soft-close drawer slides. What's the equivalent "gold standard" for in-cabinet stuff?

Is there a company I should look into for pantry systems (Mine's a double door 32" wide pantry - like a closet - not a pull out thing), also corner systems, spice drawers, cool things I don't even know about yet but you love in your kitchen, etc!

Thanks so much for any input!

NOTES:

practical
clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 09:37 am

99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone

posted by: jbrodie on 03.01.2009 at 06:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally! Our kitchen is finished! I never thought the day would come, and boy am I enjoying it. I owe so much to this forum. I can't tell you how much you all helped me. Thank you!!! I hope I can help others in return.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Island
Photobucket
Photobucket

Photobucket

soap stone

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard paint...fun! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.21.2009 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2009 at 05:41 pm

Please help, how to get my pictures from photo bucket to here??

posted by: skitter_2009 on 05.13.2009 at 10:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Please help.. I'm not good at this computer stuff. I finally figured out to get my pictures of our kitchen on photo bucket. Now how do I get them from there to this website.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.13.2009 at 07:31 pm    last updated on: 05.13.2009 at 07:31 pm

What color drain do you have in your soapstone sink?!

posted by: lesmis on 04.16.2009 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

They installed our soapstone sink yesterday, and we went to the stone yard for the templating today and love our slabs and the veining that will be on the island etc. But I noticed in the showroom that they had two different drains in the sinks they had on display. One sink had a black drain basket and the other (it was a black silgranite sink, not soapstone) had a stainless drain in it.

Wetted to simulate oiling
Photobucket

Unoiled/dry
Photobucket

Which did you use, black or stainless?

Thanks so much!

NOTES:

truth, yes. But above all, the right strainer.
clipped on: 04.17.2009 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2009 at 10:05 pm

Glass backsplash (not glass tile) Questions - thanks!

posted by: leaf29 on 03.27.2009 at 01:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

We want to use tempered glass for backsplash. Not tiles - but sheets of glass. I have 4 questions.

1) How much of a pain is it to keep clean? Do you end up seeing every little spot?

2) Does glass reflect too much light or glare?

3) 2) Does anyone have a tempered glass backsplash behind a stove? Any thoughts on its durability with heat? (DH _loves_ those high BTU burners)

4) How do you attach clear glass to a wall? Most of the clips I've seen are for mirrors, and the screw would show through the glass (not quite the clean look we are going for...). Of course there are those plastics clips that held up the mirrors in the house I grew up in, but I'd love to find something else. I know that cool clips exist, but the only ones I've found on the internet are $30 (inc shipping) for a set of 4. Since (I need 7 sets, that'll come out to be more expensive than the glass was.)

Thanks so much!!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.28.2009 at 02:17 am    last updated on: 03.28.2009 at 02:17 am

Island electrical outlets- aesthetics?

posted by: staceyneil on 03.23.2009 at 03:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been combing the electrical forum and other web sites, and I have read the code... I see I need at least one electrical outlet for my island, not further down than 12" and not under a counter overhang of 6" or more.

I'm really stumped how to satisfy this, and especially how to do so in a visually pleasing manner!! The island is made of 4 cabinet bases, all Euro/frameless, so the only available surface is either under the counter overhang (where I had planned it before I read the code!) or on the "work" side set into the top back of the trash pull-out.

I'm not thrilled about how that's going to look.

Are you allowed to put the outlet INSIDE a cabinet door, within 6" of the front of the cabinet?

I've also read about folks putting a strip of plugmold right under the narrow counter overhang on a "work" side (not a seating overhang).. even recessing it into the granite? Anyone have pics of this?

(I do not want anything on the countertop like one of those pop-up things.)

Thannks for all your ideas!

NOTES:

Sill lights and plugmold
clipped on: 03.25.2009 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2009 at 12:49 pm

Kitchen Electircal Outlets & Switches

posted by: jaums1 on 09.07.2008 at 08:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Planning a remodel.

Any ideas for electrical outlets, light switches and disposer switch other than cutting holes is the blacksplash?

I'm hoping for a sleek, clean look, so I don't like the idea of interrupting the backsplash with outlets and switches, but want them to be handy . . .

Thanks!

Jaums

NOTES:

hidden electrical outlets
clipped on: 03.06.2009 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2009 at 10:37 pm

Anyone opinions/input on quartz countertops?

posted by: goldengirl327 on 02.06.2009 at 10:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're planning to replace our kitchen countertops and I've heard a lot of buzz about quartz...less upkeep,harder surface, less porous, more "food safe" compared to granite. I'd appreciate any input you might have. Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.06.2009 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2009 at 05:52 pm

getting pictures to post instead of just a web address

posted by: buzzy0 on 02.13.2009 at 06:48 am in Kitchens Forum

I am having trouble posting picture from photobucket to this site and having them post as pictures and not the web address. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong?

Also how do you convert a web address so that someone just has to put a word like "click here for link" and it is highlighted and all you have to do is click on those words and it takes you to photobucket or wherever you have your pictures? Thanks so much!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.13.2009 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2009 at 12:23 pm

Plug mold online? Where to buy?

posted by: missyann on 02.09.2009 at 03:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

My electrician just called and told me the plugmold was going to be $85 per a 2 foot strip of plugmold. Any advise where else I can get Plugmold for a better price that is to code to be installed under my kitchen cabinets.

NOTES:

I'd also like to know where to get recessed outlets with hinged covers on them.
clipped on: 02.11.2009 at 09:48 am    last updated on: 02.11.2009 at 09:49 pm

How to trim out under plugmold?

posted by: ajsmama on 02.06.2009 at 05:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cousin who is a carpenter is trimming out around my recessed/dropped center island for me - we're using oak stained to match the cabinets. He cut a piece of oak to fit under the plugmold, but the electrician installed it crooked, b/c it fits fine on the right but gets too tight to slip under as you head to the left. The end caps are already on the strip, and the whole reason I paid $100 to install it was b/c I couldn't hammer the front cover on (dented up the first plugmold). Should I call the electrician and have him try to pull out and replace (for free!)? It took 6 months to get him out the first time! Or should we try to sand/plane the oak down? Cousin says it would be to hard to scribe to exact height over the whole 5 ft (about 2.5 - 3 ft is tight), but I'm wondering if he just planed it down to it fit to the tightest spot, could I "level" it by just having him nail it to the studs behind the plugmold so it fit evenly against the strip, and then I was going to use silicone caulk under anyway so spills don't go behind. Sorry this pic was taken with some pine molding sitting in front, so you can't see gap under. Maybe later I can take pics of gap and oak. TIA.

1/2

closeup of island plugs&trim

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.07.2009 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2009 at 03:38 pm

I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors

posted by: old_skool on 06.16.2008 at 02:43 am in Kitchens Forum

I tried the ones from IKEA but my 42" solid oak doors are too heavy. They bounce off the IKEA dampers and still make a banging noise when closing. I tried many different mounting locations as well as combos of two dampers with no luck.

I am really hoping I can find something to retrofit to my existing cabinets to make the kitchen feel much nicer.

Do you have any suggestions?

I was also thinking about something for the drawers but trying to find a good retrofit kit that is not an entire sliding bracket mechanism is difficult.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.04.2009 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2009 at 02:24 pm

drawer dividers, organizers, shelf liner?

posted by: mary6283 on 02.01.2009 at 10:49 am in Kitchens Forum

What are the best kinds of drawer dividers for things like everyday silverware, cooking tools, etc? Is it best to go with wood? plastic? mesh? Does anyone have a suggestion for a good inexpensive source?

Also, is anyone glad that they did NOT line their shelves?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.01.2009 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2009 at 09:12 pm

Under cabinet lighting -- rope? puck? LED? Incandescent?

posted by: sterlingsilver on 01.22.2009 at 11:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got rope lighting with incandescent -- I looked for LED, thinking it would last longer, but Lowe's didn't have it.

The contractor started putting it up and I'm not sure it was a good choice. First off, it has a fairly thick cord that hangs down that needs to be plugged in, plus that means each section (three separate sections) needs to be plugged in so I'll have these heavy cords in full view in several places. And yes, to turn it on or off, I need to plug/unplug each cord. Lovely. Sigh.

Also, while it's a nice, warm glow on the backsplash tile, it really doesn't give off much light. Maybe it isn't supposed to provide all that much, but I did expect a bit more than that.

Should I change them for puck lights instead? I have a couple of battery-powered LED puck lights that haven't been installed in the cabinets which I held under the cabinet to compare with the rope lights. I don't care for the bluish cast to the LED light though, it really detracts from the color of the backsplash tile. But no cords and easy to turn off and on.

What about non-LED puck lights? Do they all have cords? Or what about the *moonlights*, which I believe are incandescent light?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 11:11 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 11:11 pm

Just an idea (Bar sink)

posted by: florida_joshua on 01.14.2009 at 10:20 am in Kitchens Forum

I had a client that asked me to make a 12" X 24" soapstone sink for her bar area. I have always made bar sinks more square and was excited to see how it turned out. I thought it was a great idea and wanted to share. The runnels really add to the look as well. The sink drain was also offset to the right where the faucet is. I always thought that bar sinks were so small you can't do anything but fill a glass of water. This really makes this space useable.

Photobucket

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.14.2009 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2009 at 03:10 pm

Acceptable material for caulking ductwork?

posted by: pjb999 on 01.04.2009 at 07:41 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

I want to caulk around some poor sheetmetal work where the previous owner (inexpertly) installed a humidifier, what I've seen some use is like mastic and I do have the foil tape which could be another option, but I am wondering why I couldn't use general purpose silicone - it's not flammable and the offgassing stops when it's cured. I do like to stay within code, so I'd like to know if it's ok or not.

TIA

NOTES:

mastic for ducting
clipped on: 01.14.2009 at 10:24 am    last updated on: 01.14.2009 at 10:24 am

What appliance(s) far exceeded your expectations?

posted by: wekick on 06.04.2008 at 02:51 pm in Appliances Forum

What appliances have you had that exceeded expectations by longevity, service or just the way it functioned? I would love to hear about any newer or brand new ones that fit that category.
My parents have a GE refrigerator that has been running 58 years. The shelves rotate around a center pole. The butter compartment has thermostat.


NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.13.2009 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2009 at 01:59 pm

White Kitchens.....what makes it right?

posted by: mpeg on 10.19.2008 at 10:40 am in Kitchens Forum

When I started out doing my kichen it was going to be white. When we decided to take out the wall and open it up to the living room, I started having doubts. Then I chaged to mostly wood with some white glazed peices mixed in. Now I am second guessing my decisions because what I orginally wanted I am afraid of, but I still love it and it's what I've always wanted. I recently was reading another post on here echoing my concerns. You see some white kitchen that are just bland, and some that are just beautiful. I've not been able to really isolate what it is that makes a white kitchen right. I know there are many different elements that factor in and different styles that look right. But can someone sum this up? What elements need to be combined to make a white kitchen beautiful?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.13.2009 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2009 at 01:02 pm

Do you like having a built in soap dispenser?

posted by: beachbum on 09.16.2008 at 04:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to decide if we want a soap dispenser mounted in our counter/cabinet.
If it works, it seems like it would be handy and keep clutter off the cabinet.
My only other experience with having one was that it broke almost immediately. (The container part broke off at the threads).

Thoughts?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.13.2009 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 01.13.2009 at 10:35 am

If it's all drawers, then where do you store . . .

posted by: oldalgebra on 01.12.2009 at 11:53 am in Kitchens Forum

After weeks of reading comments and getting help on this forum, I'm convinced that drawers in base cabinets are, in general, more useful than pull-outs behind cabinet doors. With the new configuration, I will be losing my pantry. It is inefficient to be sure. Still, it holds a number of things that I'm concerned I won't be able to store any more efficiently than pre-renovation.

I've seen the innovative drawers-within-a-drawer set up for cans. Still, I can't seem to visualize an efficient way to store items like cereal boxes, oil bottles, vinegar bottles, cake mixes, etc. in those deep drawers. Are there dividers and such that make it easy to keep track of the items even though labels won't be viewed as easily? How do you do it - or do you?

Pictures will help, if that's not too much trouble. Thanks.

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clipped on: 01.12.2009 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2009 at 06:21 pm

No upper cabs - what to do with glasses and plates?

posted by: littleriverbb on 01.10.2009 at 12:22 am in Kitchens Forum

I am working on setting up a kitchen that lots of windows and doorways, but not much in the way of cabinets. There are a few lower cabinets, but the only uppers are over the refrigerator and too hard to reach on a regular basis. There is a decent size pantry off the kitchen, so storage of food shouldn't be an issue, but I am really wondering about what to do with glasses and plates. There is a space about 20" wide between two windows (over the base cabinets and near the sink & DW), where I think I could put in some sort of open shelving or maybe a small hanging plate rack or something, but it would sort of be all by itself so I am just not sure how it will look. Any thoughts?

Also...I did already do a couple of searches in the forum to get some ideas about open shelving options, but if anyone has any additional photos of smaller shelves or plate racks in their kitchen, I'd be very interested in seeing them. Thanks!

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 10:27 pm

dishwasher install with drain below floor - no air gap?

posted by: tumbulu on 01.10.2009 at 07:05 pm in Plumbing Forum

Hi - my DW was re-installed to a new location that is not adjacent to the sink. since that time it has not operated properly. Had a service call from appliance store - the repairman indicated the drain needs to be 20" above base of DW. I looked at the install manual when I found it, and it does indicate that the drain below the floor is ok if there is an airgap. I suspect I am missing the airgap.
what is happening is that when the water gets into the dw, it apparently just drains out due to gravity. the appliance guy said he thinks i need the drain hose to loop next to the dw and empty into a standpipe that is 20" above floor level.
Is it possible that I don't need the pipe to come up thru the floor? just install an air gap? what is an air gap in this type of installation? if I have that air gap, can i do without the high loop? I will be calling my contracter back to address this, but am wondering it the plumber forgot the air gap/ high loop, or if the air gap was there and not functioning? thanks for any advice

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 07:15 pm

Question for Bill or other expert about Redguard waterproofing

posted by: lenitsa on 08.31.2006 at 10:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Bill,

Hope you recall I posted the whirlpool / shower question. My GC has purchased Redguard or some version of it that you recommended. But the tile store that supplied it is telling him he should apply the Redguard then a physical membrane, then thinset and tile. I thought the dried Redguard was the membrane. I'm so very confused. He has installed cement board all around the whirlpool tub. He will give me the final word on it, but insists that cementboard plus some epoxy he adds to the grout will be waterproofing enough. And as I stated earlier, the tub is in. So, I am trying to make the best of this situation. Please .. please advise. Thank you

NOTES:

many membranes mentioned here.
clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 07:13 pm

Bill V - Tile undermount sink help!

posted by: jenellecal on 01.09.2008 at 01:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Bill V - I saw on the forum, several months ago, an in depth description of how to undermount a sink using tile. Of course it's long since fallen off but I'm hoping you could share again.

I'll be using a Crossville through body porcelain tile (haven't decided on polished or flat). Unfortunately they don't offer any quarter round pieces that I could use to trim out a sink with.

Another option would be to flush mount the sink but... not sure if that's more difficult of not.

DH is a GC and typically does small tile job, repairs, etc. He's not unfamilar with tile but is no expert either.

I've attached a picture of my sink . I bought the drop in thinking we would end up using that application, luckily it can be undermounted as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Swanstone Drop-in/Undermount Sink

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.09.2009 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 06:59 pm

Small kitchen - Big success

posted by: arbordomus on 01.10.2009 at 08:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have just completed our kitchen renovation and since we gained so much from this forum during our research, we wanted to contribute these notes of our experience to possibly help or inspire someone else. It is long, but hopefully not tedious.

There were several motivating concepts that drove our design:

-The space we had was 'land locked' by a stair and back door that we did not want to move. We also did not want to make any changes to the exterior walls or windows to contain the cost.

-Use appliances, materials and details that are the easiest to clean and maintain.

-Establish the budget necessary to obtain good quality appliances, materials and construction with limited regard for high-end design or decoration.

-We felt that it was within our capabilities to lay out the kitchen as well as design custom elements to achieve an optimum design. We are confident that one can trade research for experience in matters like this but knowing one's limitations is the key to success.

-We were able to accomplish much of the carpentry and all of the plumbing and electrical as a means to reduce cost while gaining the highest quality in materials, installation and function.

-We have lived in our house for 25 years and have made the decision to stay here as long as we can, thus making investments to meet our personal objectives, both short- and long-term, with only modest concern for resale.

-We have a master plan that has evolved for fifteen years encompassing interior and exterior renovations. The kitchen area has been under consideration for this entire time with many concepts, ideas and experiments contributing to the final design.

Since we simply had too much kitchen to put into the space available, it was necessary to move some of it into another area. As it happened, several years ago we built a screened porch onto the back of our house and added a door for access from a back bedroom. At that time (as part of the master plan) we decided to turn this room into a utility space so in our present concept we included a desk area to act as command central and a 'buffet' as storage and display space for our pottery, dinnerware and large service pieces. In the kitchen proper we have only a few basic service pieces with four place settings of daily dishes, retrieving what we need for events and rotating settings on a monthly basis.

When our house was built in 1928 there were no refrigerators so our fridge was crammed into a small closet at the back door a few steps away from the kitchen. Thing one was to move the refrigerator into the kitchen. In so doing we would make it possible to have a passageway between the kitchen and the new utility area with a straight path to our beloved porch. We had to move a radiator, however, before any work could begin.

The next major change was to remove the bearing wall between the kitchen and dining room to make way for a peninsula that would give us more work space and open up the whole area. This required installing a beam as well as moving another radiator that had piping running in that wall. Both challenging conditions that required some careful thought. We developed techniques to remove the original studs and install the new beam while leaving the top 12" of the dining room lath and plaster in place to avoid having to rebuild a cove and picture rail or match the existing textured plaster surface. We were able to fit new columns into the existing wall cavities for a flush finish. There was a good chunk of engineering and additional construction that went into this to deal with eccentric loads so it is not for the faint of heart.

Removing the dining room wall and adding the passageway to the utility space made it feasible to block up the door from the old kitchen to the central hallway making this space available for the cooking area. The space for the doorway also made it simple to install a duct for the hood with an inline fan mounted in the joist space below. This avoided lost cabinet space above the cooktop or construction for overhead ducting. We were then able to use the space over the cooktop for the microwave. We built a recess into the wall so that, in addition to 15" deep cabinets at the cooking area, it was possible to install the countertop-sized microwave that we wanted.

The cleanup area remained approximately where it was to avoid moving major plumbing. Our master plan fell down here just a bit since we actually moved the sink over a couple of feet and piping that we had installed several years ago in a laundry room renovation just below the kitchen had to be moved. Oh well. The plumbing lines for the sink and dishwasher were very carefully laid out and some of it was even mocked up to be able to reduce the space dedicated to plumbing to an absolute minimum.

We removed a broom closet from the kitchen and moved that function to an existing closet in the utility space. We had the old fir floor removed and replaced with narrow red oak to match the rest of the flooring on the first level (something we could not handle). We removed old wall lath and plaster up to 54" to simplify electrical, plumbing and cabinetry installation, but did not remove the rest of the wall or the ceiling since it was sound. It is a tossup as to whether one removes and reinstalls walls and ceiling. New drywall is nice to work with but because we were doing the work, it was possible to match surfaces and retain old materials rather than filling a dumpster. One of the first construction tasks, however, was to get new light fixtures into the old lath and plaster ceiling. Careful layout and a RotoZip saw with circle attachment made it happen.

And the desk and buffet...

Some of the interesting things that we did:

-Induction cooktop for simplicity of use and ease of cleaning. This is a wonderful device. We chose the GE 30" since it was available with a frameless glass surface, fit into standard cabinetry, met our space limitations and had an optimum configuration of burners. There are others with more features and maybe even better layout, but they were eliminated for one reason or another, not the least of which was cost. (We also have a full set of Le Creuset cookware. After a month of use we are *very* pleased. We had dual fuel before and find that the heating is more uniform in the pan and much more responsive.)

-Restaurant-grade undercabinet coffee maker to clear the counter (BrewMatic BICA). This unit is hooked up to filtered water and only hums a bit when it runs. It draws 14 amps, however! Very industrial strength.

-Central filtered water system in the laundry area below with runs to the coffee maker, refrigerator ice maker and faucet at the sink. We used 1/4" polyethylene tubing rated for high pressure use with inserts at the connections. We have used this detail for 12 years now without a problem.

-We could not find a hood that met our particular requirements so we engineered our own. It took a bit of research and discussion to find a fabricator, but the folks we found cut it out of 16ga stainless steel with a laser and folded it up like origami. The front edge is tempered glass to let in light and provide visibility. The fan is rated 400 cfm from Fantech. We had some acoustic and noise control issues that needed to be worked out, but it just hums now.

-Bosch 500 series wall oven installed below the cooktop. We chose the 500 series because it has knobs for most functions that are easier to use than touchpads at this height. The oven is 27" wide to provide ventilation space around the unit so as not to overheat itself or the cooktop. We used filler panels instead of a cabinet for the installation since the unit is 24" deep. Bosch was rated very high by Consumer Reports.

-18" dishwasher to gain cabinet space. We chose the smaller unit based on the experience of friends and since it is just the two of us most times. We run it daily since it uses less water to do a load of dishes than we would use doing them by hand. We chose a Bosch since it was the only 18" unit with a stainless tub. It was a fully integrated unit, however, that required some thought to fit with a door. This brand was also rated high by Consumer Reports.

-Full-size microwave over the cooktop. We wanted a full-sized microwave, but did not have counter or wall space and since we have had a full-size microwave over the range on a shelf for 20 years (but without a hood) we wanted to replicate that again. We designed a simple shelf into the cabinetry and with the recess noted above it works great. We chose an Amana unit because it was the largest unit that would meet our depth limitations and was also rated high in Consumer Reports.

-The refrigerator/freezer is an existing Amana that we chose because it had a bottom-mounted freezer. The surrounding cabinetry is 24" deep but it seems to integrate well enough.

-We installed a foot-operated valve (Fischer #3070) with mixing valve (Legend Anti-scald) at the sink to make it possible to rinse hands without touching the faucet. This installation bypasses the faucet valve but uses the spray head thanks to some specialized fittings we had to make. We are finding it to be very useful. We can use two hands to hold a pot that is filling and since it operates more quickly, we will often use that for a short blast of water rather than operating the faucet. The mixing valve is set for 110 degrees to avoid scalds when the water in the lines is hot. We need to add water hammer chambers, however.

-Multi-level, zoned lighting to avoid the need for undercabinet fixtures. There are two surface-mounted lights at the ceiling for general illumination even into the highest cabinets. Five downlights are recessed into the ceiling for high-level illumination on the work surfaces. Pendant lights at the peninsula provide supplementary work light but are dimmed for ambient use. Miniature downlights over the sink provide additional work light there but are also dimmed to provide ambience and grazing illumination on the wall. The hood has supplementary lights as well.

-We chose Moen for the faucet (Camerist, comes in ORB and has pull-out sprayer functions), soap dispenser and filtered water faucet so these items would have the same finish. As part of the master plan, we standardized on Moen faucets 25 years ago so that we now have only one type of cartridge in six faucets and valves to simplify maintenance.

-Corian counters were used to gain a seamless undermount sink (#874, a 1-3/4 unit that works great for us with a small dish drainer on the counter) as well as ease of cleaning, maintenance and repair. In fact, the installer (Corian can only be installed by certified installers) located the cutout for the cooktop 1" off so the opening had to be 'moved'. It is only possible to see the correction by careful examination of where it was done.

-We wanted oil rubbed bronze baskets for both the disposer and deep side of the sink so they would match as well as provide some protection from things going into the disposer inadvertently. Our disposer was a WasteKing (highly rated) which required an adapter since there are not many baskets (Cucina) available for disposers.

-The stone tile backsplash was chosen to remind us of Italy where we spent a couple of wonderful weeks last spring.

-Finally, we are building a mechanism to open the garbage bin by pressing a switch with one's toe.

We feel that we did a great deal with a small space and limited budget, challenges that are faced by many. Here are some of the ways that we met this challenge:

-Used stock cabinets (Thomasville) from Home Depot. There are many details that would be done better by custom fabrication, but at commensurate increase in cost. We chose the best construction materials and operational components, however, to maximize durability.

-We had Home Depot install the cabinets as well to avoid sales tax and our own learning curve with some detail carpentry. It also made it simpler to resolve several issues caused by field conditions, saving us money in the end.

-We chose a simple style of door and molding. In our case a plain overlay style was the only one available in the wood we wanted (hickory; it is very hard and dense which we chose for durability as well as look) but it also simplified the installation details of many other components.

-We purchased nearly everything except the cabinets and counters online. We have had very good experience with this in the past and we clearly knew what we wanted. In addition, it gave us access to a broader range of components and manufacturers so that we could get exactly what we needed.

-Limit the scope of the work when possible. While one does not want to build-in long-term problems to avoid construction issues, there just might be simpler or less invasive ways to accomplish some things.

-Do as much work on your own as possible. We are thankful to be in the special situation to have the skills, tools and time for this, but many elements of the work seemed daunting prior to starting but with care and thought we got it done.

-More than anything else, it was careful planning that made it all work out in the end. Detailed drawings of all of the appliances showing clearances and installation requirements, full-scale drawings and mockups of some areas to be sure it would work (we joke that beneath our sink is like the engine compartment of a Ferrari) and a lot of research (much of it right here) to gain as much knowledge as possible from the experience of others.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.10.2009 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2009 at 10:55 pm

power stations

posted by: suzy5565 on 01.04.2009 at 12:05 am in Kitchens Forum

I've noticed that people mention putting power stations in drawers...how does that work? How do you put an outlet in a drawer? My husband is extremely handy, and he said he can't figure it out.

NOTES:

power bar in back of drawer
clipped on: 01.09.2009 at 08:35 am    last updated on: 01.09.2009 at 08:36 am

to those who line their shelves

posted by: rtmom2 on 01.07.2009 at 09:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is know finished (except for blacksplash, to be done at end of week) and of course I am more than ready to put everything back in those cabinets. I went out looking at shelf liners (even though my husband thinks that covers the wood interior) and brought 2 rolls to start. At first I wanted cork, but that turned out to have an adhesive, instead a brought a beige spongey kind (don't know what it was called) at Bed, Bath and Beyond. I then came across cork without an adhesive at Williams and Sonoma for $20 a roll of 12 ft (I paid $6 for 5 ft). Wanted to know if anyone has ever tried cork or this product. Also do you line the pantry or just the upper cabinets?

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clipped on: 01.07.2009 at 11:52 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2009 at 11:52 pm

PoorOwner's kitchen remodel

posted by: poorowner on 11.16.2008 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

After lots of research..

My remodel begins: we are DIY using IKEA cabinets.

This thread is to keep you updated on progress and hopefully keep us motivated.

Old appliances and cabinets are gone.

Now we are TRYING to remove the paper, and there are lots of it everywhere.

In the kitchen area we have these bullet proof vinyl coated wallpaper, the stripper liquid will not penetrate, but a steamer helped. It seems to be a 2 stage process to remove the color layer, steaming, manually peeling, then let the stripper work on the backing.

DW helping with the wall paper removal in the dining area. Although I was working on the floor prep, we ended up working on the walls together.


Preparing floor for porcelain tiles: the luan removal was not fun. In my area our subfloor is over 1" thick plywood, and the people before us used extra long 2" staples to secure this layer. I choose to remove the staples instead of pounding them in. After the first 100 or so I have gotten very good.


Looking a little better.


Ikea did call us and says our order is ready to pickup. I think installing the cabinets will be more fun than this work. There are a few more steps to get the floor to tile-ready spec.

NOTES:

IKEA sink base
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 07:53 pm

Please advise: will I regret a lowered cooktop height?

posted by: infohound2006 on 01.05.2009 at 01:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi folks,

Please give me a sanity check!

I'm 5'3", and have a bad back. The ergonomic guidelines I've seen suggest the cooktop height at 6" below my elbow (to make it easier to apply pressure when chopping, or stirring thick items in a pot). That = <32", but to compromise with my 6' husband we've just decided on 33-34". The long perimeter cabinets in the kitchen, with clean-up sink and D/W will be at 94 cm, i.e., 37").

Do you think we'll regret a 33" cooktop?

Our KD says that SHE has 37" everywhere and is fine ... but I now use a pull-out cutting-board for mixing & wish I had a lower cooktop as well. I think I'd also prefer it for putting grocery bags onto.

Does anyone have and like a low cooktop? Now that I've gotten my DH to agree to this, I'm worried I may be making a mistake...

NOTES:

FLW did what with SS
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 01:37 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?

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clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 11:18 am    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 11:18 am

floor bounce adding joists

posted by: rg123 on 01.03.2009 at 03:03 pm in Home Repair Forum

My house built in the 30`s has very springy floors. The joists are 2x6 spanning 11` and are spaced 18"oc. I`m going to add joists between them making it 9"oc. Adding a cross beam is not going to work due to limited head room. My question is how to fasten the new joists to the sub floor from the basement. Are there some kind of steel connectors or something?
I don`t want to tear out all the floors to do it from above.

NOTES:

for kitchen #2
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 11:17 am

How to cut plexiglass?

posted by: brusso on 09.21.2006 at 08:38 pm in Home Repair Forum

I was cutting pieces of plexiglass (.093), and had a very tough time doing it. I tried the score and snap method (recommended by HD) but that was useless. Then, my circular saw caused the plexi to shatter. Eventually, I used a saber saw with a 15 TPI metal blade. It still shattered. Next, I used the saber and ran it VERY slowly into the plexi. This worked best of all the methods but the cuts were still not ideal. Lots of chips and a few shatters still. So, how do you cut this stuff?

NOTES:

a mix of plexi and tempered glass = solution to many a situation.
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 11:17 am

installing a pocket door; clearance from jamb???

posted by: jaansu on 12.24.2008 at 12:50 pm in Remodeling Forum

I'm about to put up the jambs on my long delayed pocket door installationa and I'm wondering how much clearance to leave between the edge of the door and the jamb. I guess if too tight it might bind. What experience do our readers have? I'm thinking an eighth of an inch.

NOTES:

closing off a galley kitchen
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 11:16 am

DIY-ers: Where are you buying your cabinets??

posted by: kmgard on 01.05.2009 at 12:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

So this question is inspired by the under $20K kitchen thread. I was so impressed with everything I saw in that thread, and I must know where you bought your cabinets! I'm assuming most of the money was saved by installing yourselves...?

We are about to attempt a DIY kitchen (with the help of an electrician and a plumber), and I am almost ready to order StarMark cabinets from MKFUSA (unless anyone can tell me why I shouldn't!). I did the design myself using their website and graph paper. I've been told I did great scale drawings, so I'm pretty confident my design will work (it doesn't vary much from the original layout anyway, just uses MUCH more functional cabinets). Here's hoping we can install them correctly!!

I'm sure many of you used IKEA, but I'm not fortunate enough to live near one of those. And I am SO jealous of those of you who have "carpenter friends" who custom made your kitchens. Try not to rub it in too much. :) Anyone else order online, or did most of you still order from local cabinet places?

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clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 10:39 pm

fluorescent undercabinet lighting?

posted by: poorowner on 01.05.2009 at 12:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, what are my fluorescent under cabinet lighting options? T4, T5 etc?
I don't mind the diffused light but I want a warm look. Would 4100K be too cold looking?

NOTES:

compare to KIEA
clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 10:27 pm

Thermador induction cooktop questions

posted by: minu on 01.07.2008 at 12:11 pm in Appliances Forum

Does anyone have the 30" induction cooktop from Thermador, either the hybrid or all-induction? If so, are you satisfied with the performance? Would like to get the all-induction because of the large burner, but am also considering the hybrid so that some old cookware can be reused. Would appreciate your responses.

NOTES:

Cool custom work under Induction, to rearrange the Heat Shield and make a functional drawer.
clipped on: 11.21.2008 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2008 at 12:53 pm