Clippings by danzeb

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some budding info

posted by: franktank232 on 08.10.2014 at 03:25 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

This is how i do it...remove a bud from budwood, remove a bud from tree i'm budding on to, place a bud, tape, rubber band... Make sure things line up (green to green) and wrap everything as tight as i can...This is spring satin onto a large Puget Gold apricot.

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Is this how other folks on here do it?

I keep the buds in my mouth while i'm cutting so they stay moist... I've done about 50 of these now the past 24 hours, so its starting to go a little smoother. Now is the time, get out there!

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clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 06:31 pm

RE: How much sun do raspberries need? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ericwi on 08.09.2014 at 08:05 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

We have a productive patch of everbearing red raspberries, here in Madison, Wisconsin. They are located along a fence line, that runs north/south, and they get full sun in the mornings. In the afternoon, they are shaded by the neighbors grape arbor, that is on the other side of the fence, and very dense with foliage. I have seen people growing raspberries in locations that were more shaded than ours, so I know it can be done. However, to get decent growth and fruit production, I suspect that full-sun, half-day is the minimum requirement. Commercial raspberry growers will have the canes growing in rows, with full-sun, all-day.

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clipped on: 08.10.2014 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 08.10.2014 at 11:58 am

RE: powdery mildew on squash etc (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: danzeb on 10.12.2013 at 10:49 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I tried a version of the Cornell formula on a few squash plants. In a quart of water I added 1 tsp baking soda, 1 1/2 tbs cotton seed oil, 1 drop dish washing soap. It seems to be working and as a bonus the plants that were previously damaged by SVB are no longer wilting. The oil on the leaves is conserving moisture.

I spray every 7 to 14 days. It doesn't completely eliminate it but keeps it under control and the plants fruit very well.

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clipped on: 07.07.2014 at 05:49 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2014 at 05:49 pm

RE: Monterey fungi fighter - days to harvest? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: olpea on 06.13.2014 at 01:38 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Topas is a Canadian fungicide subject to Canada's rules. In the U.S. propiconazole has a 0 PHI for stone fruits.

I don't know why Canada has a longer PHI for the same compound. I notice the Maximum Residue Level for Canada is basically the same for propiconazole as it is in the U.S.

For blueberries, it's 1ppm for both U.S. and CAN.

For cherries (both sweet and tart) it's 4ppm for U.S. and CAN. For peach it's 4ppm (U.S. and CAN). Interestingly, the U.S. has a lower Max. residue level for plums than CAN. 0.6ppm for U.S. vs. 4ppm for CAN.

What this means is that if the label is followed the fruit will be below the max. residue level. When a compound is registered with the EPA, it goes through extensive testing to determine what PHI is required to be in compliance with the Max. residue level.

My only guess why Canada has a longer PHI for this compound than the U.S. when the Max. residue levels are the same is because perhaps Canada allows more of the compound to be sprayed on the trees. But that's just a guess, I haven't run the numbers.

In the U.S., the label indicates Montery Fungi Fighter is allowed at a higher rate on home fruit trees than allowed in commercial orchards.

It is true propiconazole is transported systemically in the plant, but plants also metabolize the compound, breaking it down in the process.

Although Monterey claims it works up to 4 weeks for some diseases, that doesn't mean the residue lasts that long in the fruit at any significant level. Some diseases are effectively controlled by key timing of the application, thereby offering much longer control even after the residue is gone. Scab and cedar/apple rust would be examples of this. Good control during spore ejection will provide season long protection against these diseases, even though there is no longer any fungicide residue on the fruit.

The Toxipedia link on propiconazole indicated liver tumors were found in mice fed a dose as low as (emphasis added) 3.6mg/kg per day. To put that in perspective, one would have to eat the equivalent of their body weight in fruit every day to get that level of exposure.

For the skeletal deformations mentioned in new born pups one would have to consume about 8 times their body weight in fruit per day for that level of exposure (over 1000 lbs. of fruit per day for most people).

While it's a good idea to wash off any pesticide which comes into direct contact with skin, I wouldn't be overly fearful of propiconazole. The EC report (referenced in Toxipedia) indicated human volunteers tested epicutaneous doses up to 1% (about the same concentration of Montery Fungi Fighter concentrate) which caused no dermal reactions (or presumably any other symptoms) in any of the test subjects.

Overall I think propiconazole is a fairly safe compound and offers a good solution for home growers battling brown rot in humid climates.

This post was edited by olpea on Fri, Jun 13, 14 at 1:40

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clipped on: 06.13.2014 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 06.13.2014 at 11:33 am

RE: second opinion on apple tree spraying (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: harvestman on 06.09.2014 at 05:37 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I agree that it depends where you are, but equally, it should depend on what you see. i manage about a hundred orchards in about a 140 mile range north of NYC and have learned i can get sound apples with usually only two sprays all season. Been doing this for 25 years here.

You will need to mix two materials- Triazide and Immunox and apply once at petal fall and again 10-14 days later and if apple fly maggots don't show up that may well be all you need all season.

It is very bad advice to suggest spraying every two weeks with no idea about what you are gunning for. Your vendor shouldn't be dispensing advice on managing fruit trees, IMO.

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clipped on: 06.09.2014 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2014 at 02:44 pm

RE: Fungicide for blackcurrant powdery mildew? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Drew51 on 06.04.2014 at 08:12 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Fungonil or Gardentech can be used together with copper. That might be your best bet! I do mention a name. "Bonide liquid copper fungicide." I myself have on hand Bonide copper dust. The Fungonil product mentions on label that copper can be used with it.
I grow tomatoes and most growers like to use DACONIL, so it seems like a good product.
These are mostly preventattives so good luck. As mentioned get ahead of this next year, but for sure treat now!
Here is a link to the Bonide labels. Even if you use other products, this gives you good info on what to use for what. Check the copper labels for amount. The dust is nasty to work with, hard to measure out. But may be stronger than the liquid.
I use a tank sprayer to apply.

Here is a link that might be useful: bonide labels

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clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 10:19 am

RE: pruning now? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marknmt on 06.04.2014 at 08:00 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I like to do any "major" pruning during dormancy- if it needs saw or loppers I prefer it to be done during late winter. Once the tree starts bushing up I go back in and thin to keep it open and remove new stuff going the wrong direction.

Also, as Brady says, summer pruning serves to keep the size of the tree in check, as it deprives the tree of photosynthetic sugars that it would otherwise be storing in the roots to fuel next year's growth. Winter pruning is also ultimately dwarfing, but will be followed in the spring by bushy growth.

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clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 10:12 am

RE: safe insecticide for fruits trees (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: harvestman on 05.08.2014 at 02:13 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I'm surprised by the answers because you stated you would be willing to use something synthetic. I suggest, and members of this forum repeatedly suggest, that for the grower who is not devoted to growing free of man made insecticides and wants to use a product with very little risk to the user should run with a pyrethroid such as Spectracide's Triazide, Once and Done (for fruit and vegetables).

You need to spray very very soon (probably late next week) and again in about 2 weeks. I manage orchards not far from you and know that the odds are good that's all the insecticide you will need. E-mail me if you want a detailed description of my spray sched. You will probably need at least a single fungicide ap as well- probably in early to mid July for peaches- maybe just a couple weeks before fruit is ripe for cherries.

Order Montery Fungus fighter for that.

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clipped on: 05.08.2014 at 07:56 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2014 at 08:01 pm

RE: Does it pay to keep my Methley plum any longer? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: harvestman on 05.05.2014 at 06:10 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Let me know who they are and I will attempt to enlighten them. I get a pretty good chance to evaluate relative resistance of cultivars because I manage so many orchards. Methely used to be a staple plum in my nursery so I'm still tending quite a few of them. It is the only variety of plum I've ever had to cut down because of being overwhelmed by BK at sites where I regularly cut it out.

It is still worth growing at some sites, IMO, because of the early fruit and it usually sets way too well.

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clipped on: 05.06.2014 at 06:54 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2014 at 06:55 pm

RE: Fungus Spray Question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: scottfsmith on 05.05.2014 at 09:30 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

If you are paying a lot of attention to your crop you can hold off on spraying until it is needed. It makes it a bit harder to get ahold of the first time but you are more aware of the exact timing of the problem and with reading up will learn when to spray. I myself don't spray for anything I don't get. I never get apple scab, the #1 apple disease, so I don't spray for it. Why don't I get it? I have no idea and I could get it some year, but meantime I am saving a lot of time on sprays I don't need. One exception to this is plum curculio always seems to show up so once you have fruits you will need to spray for that. Moths also nearly always show up in a few years (maybe not right away though). Brown rot on stone fruits also shows up in 4-5 years. So, I would go after the curc as soon as you have fruit, probably moths as well as you want to be pre-emptive on them, and brown rot 2-3 years later whether you see it or not. All the others you can wait tip you see it. Well, doing a dormant lime sulphur and oil spray is also not a bad idea for pre-emptive, get all the diseases while they are vulnerable to a heavy dose.

I haven't found neem/kelp/fish particularly helpful, I use kelp and fish off and on and don't see much difference. Neem is weak, too many sprays are needed and even then the results may not be good. If you want to be organic suphur and Serenade are the best for diseases. For moths you will need spinosad. I use Surround for the curculio.

Scott

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clipped on: 05.06.2014 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2014 at 06:52 pm

RE: How many fungicide sprays for fruit trees? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: harvestman on 04.29.2014 at 11:34 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

The program I have is for the Northeast and not the mid-Atlantic but I bet those two sprays would prevent scab and cedar apple rust there- scab is not supposed to be so bad further south anyway.

Scott is in your area and has major problems with Oriental fruit moth which does extend the insecticide spray season for stone fruit at least- also coddling moth can go on longer as well as can plum curculio if it has a second generation.

The only way to find out what you can get away with at any given site is to risk your first crop a bit and keep your eyes open.

If you are inland at a higher elevation site you will probably need fewer sprays and possibly be in a similar position as folks up here with fruit pests.

In my schedule I did mention the strong possibility of needing Monterey Fungus Fighter to stop brown rot from destroying stonefruit- probably at least a single application about a month before fruit ripens and possibly a second two weeks later.

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clipped on: 05.02.2014 at 09:19 am    last updated on: 05.02.2014 at 09:19 am

RE: Looking for Apple Scions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cckw on 04.23.2014 at 10:47 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

You have to graft with dormant scions. The union does not happen fast enough to be able to graft with scions that are needing to support bud growth immediately.

Bud grafting in August requires that you be able to get a clipping and get home and graft same day. I don't see how it could be done though the mail in time.

You need to be reading this forum like some people read facebook. there is a whole lot about apples to know if you are going to be successful

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clipped on: 04.24.2014 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 04.24.2014 at 09:37 am

All Pruning is Dwarfing

posted by: harvestman on 04.13.2014 at 12:02 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

That is one of my favorite "true lies" in horticulture. I've seen it so many times in university based guidelines about pruning, often accompanied by photos of the comparative size of young trees either pruned or not.

It is invariably stated as an absolute fact, which is too bad because it is often necessary to prune bearing age trees and bushes in a manner to stimulate vigor in order improve the quality of the fruit or sometimes just to get them going again.

Yesterday I was pruning some blueberry bushes that had been lingering in pots for years and forgotten in my nursery until I put them in the ground last year. If I left them as they were there would be little chance of their returning to vigorous growth. They are small plants with lots of flower buds and just a few short shoots of last years vegetative growth.

One kind of pruning that stimulates vegetative growth is when you remove spur wood (the crooked short pieces loaded with flowers), preferably back to an upright vegetative shoot that grew the previous year. This is what I did for the blueberries.

This works better than simply removing flowers because spurs continue to be a big energy sink as they build blossoms for the following season.

When I'm pruning through orchards the first thing I evaluate it the relative vigor of a tree. A tree that is barely growing can often be brought back by reducing spur wood and any wood growing horizontally or below.

The part you can only learn by doing is evaluating how much spur wood to leave, but when a tree is seriously runted out it is hard to remove too much. Better to get the tree growing again and train it back to fruitfulness then to leave it in that state.

Proper irrigation and nitrogen can also help, of course, but pruning for vigor is a valuable addition to managing fruit trees that is not often discussed.

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clipped on: 04.13.2014 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2014 at 07:12 pm

RE: Cutting back pencils (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: harvestman on 03.20.2014 at 08:49 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Pears will sometimes have almost nothing but very long drooping pieces of annual wood and it becomes a challenge of what to do if you don't have a decent amount of spurs to work with. It is better to prune less and cut back these pieces next year when they've formed some fruit buds on the two year wood that is your new shoots this year.

It does not discourage fruiting when you cut back into two year wood- especially if the two year wood has flower buds. With Boscs it is OK to cut into one year wood once you've developed a decent amount of spurs if this is needed to get the wood in shape (rigid and straight).

I realize this is all somewhat confusing, but the key is that with young pears you need to let enough young wood become mature wood to get them into cropping mode. Stubbing annual wood will keep it in an immature state.

The ideal situation is when you have a range of vigorous to less vigorous annual shoots and you can remove the most vigorous and still have enough new, less vigorous wood to develop spurs and feed the spurs that exist.

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clipped on: 03.22.2014 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 01:14 pm

RE: Pruning and Sraying trees (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: harvestman on 01.29.2014 at 05:55 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Jimmy, here's something I wrote for this forum some time back. I expect your pest complex is similar to mine so this should be helpful. Good luck.

REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED

________________________________________
Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast

Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples.

Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule.

Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil. If it's closer to pink use 1%.

Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days.

Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are.

If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit.

All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception as it tends to merge a couple of weeks after last spray looses affectiveness, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap.

If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit..

Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound. Some sites that single spray will also prevent serious rot on later ripening varieties on seasons not particularly wet.

Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard over night and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days..

Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls.
Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.

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clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 09:12 am    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 09:12 am

RE: How early can I plant bell peppers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: zackey on 12.13.2013 at 06:21 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I planted a variety called Lady Belles from transplants. I had so many peppers I was giving them away and I only had 4 plants. They tolerated several bug attacks and diseases and never skipped a beat.

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clipped on: 12.14.2013 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2013 at 02:37 pm

RE: Weighing down pear tree branches or pegging (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: fruitnut on 02.12.2010 at 10:05 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

cd: Very good questions! You are on the right track. All the trees you mention will set more fruit than you probably can imagine right now. Get ready to thin a lot.

But if you want better crotch angles and tree form, then you may want to tie some branches into the correct position. Tie them off to something solid on the ground without girdling the limb. Weighting them down with something that hangs from the tree is not workable in my opinion. And it may well break out the limb. Even tying to the ground be careful not to break something.

I usually go to about 30 degrees above horizontal. But am thinking of trying one tree at horizontal this year to see what happens.

If your apples seem pretty open they will probably be fine as is. Those varieties are known for high, early production.

Again thinning is really essential especially on young trees.

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clipped on: 12.14.2013 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2013 at 01:48 pm

RE: Apple Tree Pollination and Rootstocks (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: harvestman on 12.07.2013 at 03:17 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

You will find Goldrush to be exceptionally good as a cooker, I think. It's high acid and firm texture make it a pretty exciting addition to pies, compoties or whatever. N. Spy also is great for cooking as is Jonagold.

Scab and cedar apple resistance are also in Arkansas Black, Ashmead's Kernel, Golden Russet, Roxbury Russet, Saint Edmonds Pippin, Spartan, and old strain Stayman amongst others, according to Tom Burford's list. These are all very nice apples that should do well where you are. Ash is my favorite heirloom for flavor, but may not be a consistent cropper.

If you add the fungicide Immunox (myclobutanyl) with your first two (and probably only) insecticide sprays, you can probably grow and harvest any apple you want.

In case you are interested, here is a spray schedule that should work for you.

Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.

REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED

________________________________________
Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast

Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples.

Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule.

Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinyl) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil. If it's closer to pink use 1%.

Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days.

Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are.

If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit.

All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap.

If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit..

Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound.

Because I manage so many orchards so far apart, I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring, but PC can enter an orchard overnight and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days..

Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls.

Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.08.2013 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2013 at 08:45 pm

Comparing 2 east coast nectarines

posted by: harvestman on 08.11.2013 at 08:57 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

As I've stated in the past, my favorite peach is a nectarine. For years the only variety I grew was an old variety (Mericrest, I think) that cracks every year and suffers from at least some rot no matter the spray regimen. It's exceptional flavor has saved it from the ax.

But then I started harvesting fruit from a Summer Beaut nectarine a few years ago and it is far less susceptible to cracking and not all that much harder than peaches for me to grow. Now I grow Eastern Glo, Summer Beaut, Redgold (ones I've tasted) Sunglo and Amber (maybe this year).

If you are considering trying to grow nectarines for their higher flavored flesh and smooth skin, as compared to peaches, I recommend you start with either Easternglo or Summerbeaut, both available from Adams County Nursery.

Because they are relatively early they may require only one additional spray over peaches- they probably will need a spray about 2 weeks before ripening with Monterey Fungus Fighter when grown in northeastern conditions. I'm not sure if preceding fungicide sprays will be necessary but I've included another a month before ripening.

Here, in the northeast, they haven't required any more than the initial petal fall (of latest blooming apples) and 2 weeks following sprays of a material such as Spectracide's Triazide to adequately keep fruit destroying insects at bay.

That is a total of two insecticide sprays with which I protect all the species of fruit I manage. Plums are the only species, especially European ones, that sometimes suffer a significant but tolerable amount of plum curculio damage under this regimen. Further south, and sometimes, even here, stink bugs and/or OFM may complicate this schedule with subsequent sprays becoming necessary.

Comparing Eastern Glo and Summer Beaut nectarines, Eastern Glo seems a less vigorous tree that may not size up fruit as well as Summer Beaut. It is just a few days earlier than SB this year- a gap I remember as being wider two years ago (necs were frozen out on my site last year).

Eastern Glo is almost a solid red color while SB has what I find a more interesting mottled appearance of yellow and red- but that's a subjective evaluation maybe influenced by my subjective assessment that SB is the superior tasting fruit between the two.

Summer Beaut is more acidic than Eastern Glo- a trait I appreciate, but last night my mother-in-law determined that it was too "sour" and she prefers the flavor of Eastern Glo. I suspect anyone who prefers white peaches to yellow would share her opinion. However, there's no way I'd describe a tree ripe Summer Beaut as sour- it has some tart swimming in sugar and nectarine essence.

Summer Beaut, as ripened off the tree, is pretty much the perfect fruit for me and I treasure it as much as anything in my orchard but Eastern Glo tastes almost as good to me. I hope in the future it ripens relatively earlier to Summer Beaut, so it doesn't suffer from comparison.

Incidentally, I had the opportunity to taste a couple of Crawford peaches this year from wood I received from Scott the spring before last. What seemed to distinguish it from other quality peaches I grow was a higher level of acid, although there was also another flavor in the mix that added distinction that I can't put my finger on. It's fruit still can't hold a candle to a good nectarine as far as my palate is concerned. A great early peach, though.

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clipped on: 10.17.2013 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2013 at 04:49 pm

When and how to prune raspberries?

posted by: linnea56 on 10.10.2013 at 09:06 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

When and how to prune raspberries?

A friends gave me a number of raspberry plants last year and this year. They were dug up from volunteers in his yard. He does not recall what kind they are, except that they seem to bear twice a year, more in spring and a smaller crop in the fall (late Sept early Oct.). My friend has never pruned his, and they are tall, arching, and jungle like.

My folks grew raspberries but those bore only in the spring. My Dad used to cut off the canes at chest level. But I don't remember when: I think it was the fall. He said they bore much better if he pruned them.

The plants I got last year did not bear in the spring at all, but bore this fall. This year's transplantings stayed pretty short and didn't do much, though they look healthy.

Should I prune the tall ones? If so, when? When the fruiting is done, or in the spring?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 10.12.2013 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 10.12.2013 at 10:36 am

Advice on northern peach growing

posted by: franktank232 on 08.02.2007 at 03:36 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Found this over on NAFEX. Must pass it on to some people here with questions. I found this information to be excellent. Plan on using it in the future. Its long, but a very good read...print it and keep a copy. This should be a sticky or in a FAQ.

Welcome to the asylum.
I've been finishing up the hurry-up, freeze-up! work and haven't been able
to get to this until now.
I have been experimenting with growing peaches and other tender fruit
trees in zone 4a, central MN, pretty intensely since 2000 and less so before
that. I am a collector, tester, grower and breeder and have an experimental,
mostly one of a kind, collection of over 350 trees. Many of these are hardy
here (I think I may now have the largest collection of hardy plums in the
US) but some are tender and would not survive without some modification to
standard "plant and wait" horticultural practices. I have apricots, sweet
cherries and European plums that fit this description but the largest number
of these tender trees and the most tender of them are the peaches. Still, I
have been able to test around 85 named cultivars and have around 55
survivors currently, both named and private selections. They are growing as
branches on 45 hardy peach seedlings that are offspring of the Bear Creek
Siberian C based material, which are also the basis for my testing and
breeding. (Some of you have contributed material for testing or have
provided information that has helped me to track down promising material and
I am grateful.) I know that growing the test branches is not a true measure
of absolute hardiness but it gives me an indication of relative hardiness.
If a cultivar survives as a branch then I make up trees to plant out for a
second test, if not, I am through with it.
Meanwhile, the branches provide me with breeding material which I use to
make crosses on the better selections of the seedlings. Breeding trees have
been selected based on fruit size and quality and on early ripening, which
is important for hardiness as early ripe trees have more time to harden off.
These are the seed parents for crosses made using pollen from the good
quality named cultivars with a known track record for hardiness and/or those
having a long chill hour requirement, which is linked to hardiness. For
pollen parents, I have chosen from the older cultivars of commercial and
backyard/farmers market types rather than from newer commercial ones. This
is because hardiness and other desirable characteristics seem to have become
secondary considerations in contemporary breeding programs to firm flesh and
other commercial qualities. My goal is to produce a peach that I can grow
and eat in MN rather than one that looks good on the shelf in a grocery
store half way across the country. I also use pollen from the private
seedling selections I have collected and, of course, I am making reciprocal
crosses on the good quality branches when their flower buds survive the
winter. The first planting from the crosses of selected seedlings x Harrow
Diamond made in 2004 were grown out this year. They made around 3' of growth
and should provide a small amount of first fruit for evaluation in two more
years.
Here are some things I have learned, many the hard way, about growing
peaches in a cold climate:
1. Hardiness is much more complex than minimum winter temps. Especially
so are the conditions in the fall when trees are going dormant, which is
almost never given the attention it deserves and may be at least as
important as winter minimums. Many trees thought to have been killed during
a late Jan/early Feb deep cold spell may have already been dead from a
sudden change to cold in Dec/ Nov, even though the temps were less severe.
Of course when they don't leaf out in Spring the mid winter cold is blamed.
Last years minimum was only -23 F with good snow in late Jan, which should
have been easy for my trees, but we had sudden unusually cold temps for a
long period in December before there was snow cover and so there was a lot
of damage and mortality in the peaches.
2. The weak link in peach tree hardiness is the trunk. A tree goes
dormant from the top down and the last thing to harden off is the trunk. An
early cold snap that comes in before the trunk hardens off can kill the tree
trunk without damaging any other part of it. I have learned to delay
celebrating tree survival in spring beyond an examination finding green twig
cambium right out to the tip of every branch and plenty of live buds. Too
many times I have seen those buds break into lush growth only to then stop
growing abruptly and then dry up. This is because, as it has turned out too
many times, the trunk was dead just above the soil line. I am experimenting
with budding and grafting 2'-3' high on the rootstock in hopes of providing
a hardy trunk.
3. Bailey rootstock is not the answer to hardiness problems. It may well
be a vigorous rootstock that is itself hardier than most peaches, but it
grows too long into the fall and induces the scions grafted on it to do so
as well, delaying senescence. The common peach seedling rootstocks Lovell,
Halford and Nemaguard also have this effect, as does Pumiselect and the
plums St. Julian 'A' and Mariana 2624. Siberian C based peaches defoliate
early and induce the scion grafted on them to do so when used as a
rootstock, or at least it doesn't get in the way. Some other plum
rootstocks including P.americana and, less so, P. bessei so the same. I am
experimenting with various cherry plums as rootstocks for peach with this in
mind. Scion overgrowth? Sure, but the tree will probably be dead from other
causes before this becomes a serious problem and staking is easy. Suckering?
Its easy to cut off the suckers. An additional benefit of using plums is
that you can then grow peaches in heavier soil than you otherwise could.
4. Warm wet weather in fall trumps rootstock in the battle to get the tree
to shut down. Tarping off the roots seems to help but sweating and the
continual presence of the tarp does not permit drying out of the soil
between rains. I wish I knew how to do this without having to roll the tarp
up in good weather. Anybody?
5. Southwest injury is a big problem. For those who are blissfully
ignorant of SW injury, here is the story: its a cold day in January with
high pressure in control. There is only a light breeze and a few white puffy
clouds in the the clear blue sky. At 2:00 PM the high temp for the day of
minus 15 F is approaching but while the low sun angle doesn't provide much
heat to the earth (thats why its winter) it feels warm on your face despite
the cold. It is also warm on the vertical tree trunks and their temperature
has risen to way above 0 F. Then the sun dips behind one of those clouds for
just a few minutes but that is long enough to make you feel cold and to
bring the trunk temp suddenly goes back to -15 F. Sun, shade, hot, cold...
repeat until cambium is completely dead on the southwest side of the tree.
Even if the tree isn't killed outright the tree is doomed because there is
now an entry point for insects, bacterial canker, you name it. Pertinent
contributing factors: when the weather is the coldest the sun angle is near
its lowest, and, the farther North you are the lower the winter sun angle
and the bigger the danger of SW injury. By all means paint the trunks white
as high as you can reach and put on white tree wrap/guards (why do they even
make brown tree wrap?).
6. Don't plant a tender tree in a "protected" site. I wish I knew how many
times someone has told me about the peach that died in spite of their having
planted it in this great warm and wind protected site right up along the
south side of the house. Absolute cold kills peaches not wind chill unless
you are in a prairie climate with dry snowless winters, and then that is bud
desiccation, not wind chill. And minimum temperatures come around sunrise,
way after any benefit from yesterday afternoons buildup of slightly warmer
temperatures in the tree's little heat island is long gone. Once in a while
I even hear about someone who has tried to espalier a peach against the
south wall of a building in an effort to get it through the winter - Geez!
6. Plant your peach on the north side of a shade source - building, row of
evergreens, etc. It should be located far enough away so that it gets full
sun in the summer but close enough so it is in the shade through the coldest
winter months and up to bloomtime. Tender trees can survive severe cold,
often colder than they are rated for, if they remain in deep dormancy. I
found that many zone 5 trees were hardy in my zone 4a temperatures when they
survived -29 F during the winter of '03-'04. Often the zone 5 rating
reflects a trees inability to resist de-hardening in a warm spell and/or to
recover from it and re-harden when the weather turns cold again... rather
than its susceptibility to cold midwinter temperatures. Winter shade helps
keep the tree dormant during winter warm spells, delays its breaking
dormancy in the spring, and delays bloom. In addition, no winter sun on the
trunk = no SW injury.
8. Peaches and apricots are a good risk in cold climates. They are very
vigorous and so recover quickly from winter injury. Since they bear fruit on
one year old wood they are always just one good winter away from a crop. So
for an established peach that has died back to the snowline in winter, it
would not be unreasonable to see 6' of new growth during the next summer
which would then bear fruit the following summer after a mild winter.
Madison and Hardired are good choices in spite of tender flower buds because
they are very wood hardy and the tree is more likely to survive a cold
winter in good condition even though the flower buds may die, then they can
produce a full crop the next year if a mild winter follows. By contrast, my
sweet cherries need two mild winters to get fruit - one to form spurs and
another to get fruit. Every cold climate gets occasional mild winters but 2
in a row is rare.
9. Don't plant a peach tree thinking that at some time in the distant
future, grandchildren at your side, you will be able to look back and fondly
recall this day. Plant peaches like you do tomatoes expecting their demise
and planning for their replacement. Even in ideal climates and conditions
peaches are not an icon for longevity and for sure they are not going to be
when you plant them on the fringes of their range and beyond. Better to
take heart in the fact that they are vigorous and precocious (I've had a
partial crop on peaches in their second growing season from the graft ) and
you might get lucky for a while with a few unpredictable crops before the
tree dies... and that they are so very good that when you do get them it is
worth the risk and work.
10. Reliance is not the hardiest cultivar, and it doesn't have to be. There
is a group of relatively hardy varieties, named and unnamed, that includes
Reliance but also Veteran, McKay (at least as hardy for me as Reliance in
flower and wood) and Madison and Hardired Nectarine (might be a little more
wood hardy). Within this group, planting site and horticultural methods are
much more important than which cultivar you choose to grow. The "Haven"
peaches from MI have done well for me as have the "Prairie" series from IL
and the Harrow varieties. 'Sunapee', the other peach besides Reliance out of
NH, has done well as have WI Balmer, Champion, and Polly. But again, let me
emphasize, its not which cultivar you choose within this group but how you
grow it. Somewhere warmer than here the choice of cultivar may be enough to
make the difference but in my location this alone is not enough as my pile
of dead trees will attest. From what I have learned by listening to the
problems people have growing peaches in zone 5 and even warmer, any place
that has serious winter to the extent that they hope to have a white
Christmas - whether they get one or not - could benefit from some or all of
these growing principles.
11. For those of you planting seeds and making your own grafts, no one
year old peach tree is hardy regardless of cultivar. You could get lucky
with heavy snow cover or a mild winter but to ensure survival for the first
winter you have to dig it up a tree and heal it in at an angle with mulch
over the top, or protect it some other way. Any hardiness a peach may
eventually have comes about with age and is not present the first year. I
don't mind killing trees if I learn something from it but nothing is learned
from losing a one year old tree.

Good Luck and remember that grow is a verb.

Dave

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.09.2013 at 07:26 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2013 at 07:26 pm

RE: This is a new berry - (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: Drew51 on 09.22.2013 at 11:53 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

One man's meat is another's poison. I prefer them how they are. It would be like sweetening a currant. Current Elaeagnus species are excellent just the way they are. I like to cook with such berries (currants and autumn olives). I can then control sweetness myself. To me the balance of acid and sugar make all fruits. The new trend to removing acid to make corn syrup like fruits is not appealing to me in any way. But I know many like the low acid taste. So I see why. I don't have to buy them myself. As far as doing any research on our cultivars. I doubt that would happen. Maybe these fruits will develop commercial potential in the future.. Currently so many new berries are of interest, these are often overlooked, and still are. A shame. I really like these plants. I'm glad my state does not label them as invasive and I can grow them here. Since they can tolerate some shade, they are very useful for me in my naturalized garden at my cottage.

NOTES:

Shade?
clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 02:27 pm

sSolanum quitoense

posted by: miketropic on 09.22.2013 at 03:04 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I have been growing Solanum quitoense with spines this season and really had no idea what I was doing..first year from a small plant and I have a very impressive fruit set. there about the size of a ping pong ball and the hair on them is starting to go brown. I have seen pictures and they look like small orange when ripe so I figure I have a long way to go..but a short time till frost. For anyone who has grown this plant, can you pick them around frost and have them ripen inside or is there no chance I will get to taste this fruit? I guess I should have grown it in a pot but ground grown has produced a super sized fruiting plant. What can I do?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 02:23 pm

RE: Turkish Orange Eggplant (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: uaskigyrl on 09.16.2013 at 09:29 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I found out that if you let the fruit get completely orange they can get bitter &/or if changes the taste. I found that they are at their best if you pick them when they still have their green stripes. I found their flavor to be similar to black beauty they just aren't as soft. They have a mild flavor that will take on whatever flavor you toss it with.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.17.2013 at 07:30 am    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 07:30 am

RE: Tried & True Successes (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: zeedman on 09.08.2013 at 02:43 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

"Diamond" eggplant. Wilt resistant, early, and prolific. I haven't had a summer yet where it didn't perform well. Planted it late this year - in pots, due to my main garden being flooded - and it has still given me a great harvest.

(Note on growing veggies in pots: buy topsoil by the yard, not by the bags sold in the big box stores. You get better soil, and better results.)

"Beaver Dam" pepper. Dwarf plants, moderately hot conical peppers 5-8" long, with thick bell-like flesh. This is my favorite for canning large amounts of salsa. It ripens very early, I get quite a few ripe even in cool summers or if planted late, and a huge harvest in good years. Also makes a pepper steak to die for, IMO.

"Tromboncino" summer squash. Long vines need a lot of space, but climb strongly & can be trellised. If you are tired of SVB wiping out your summer squash, grow this one. It is strongly resistant to them, I seldom lose a vine. The super-long immature squash can be up to 24" long or longer, and is 90% seedless (!!!). All of the seeds are in the bulb at the end, which I cut off. Because of this, it freezes better than regular zucchini. The harvest can be huge in late summer.

 photo GardenPictures250-1.jpg

"Elfin" tomato. This is a grape tomato with 1" ovoid red fruit in great abundance. They are meaty, with little juice, and great for salads. Unlike many cherry tomatoes, the plants won't take over your garden... I space them 24" apart, and just let them grow prostrate. The tomatoes keep for a long time off the vine.

All of these do great in short-season areas, and are open-pollinated, so you can save your own seeds for next year.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.08.2013 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 09.08.2013 at 10:27 am

Plums 2013

posted by: scottfsmith on 09.02.2013 at 07:56 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

How did your plums do this year? I had several varieties fruit for the first time, here is my log info.

Spring Satin Very good as usual, aromatic flesh and similar to Flavor Supreme in flavor - a great super-early plum! Squirlz got most of them however. I classify this as a plum because besides the bit of fuzz and the earliness its a plum in every other respect. Don't let it overset, they are bland then.

Earli Magic - A very good plum, when left to hang they have a very good flavor. Not tart, more on the aromatic side. That plus earliness makes them a winner, probably a notch better than Spring Satin.

Purple Heart - These guys hang purple a long time before softening - it makes it hard to keep all the critters off of them. I did not thin enough, the fruits want to be large so it needs more thinning than Satsuma. Taste is very similar to Satsuma, not exactly all the same flavors but many common ones and every bit as good as Satsuma. Good as an earlier, larger, just as reliable version of Satsuma, and one of my favorites. I have no idea why this plum is not more popular.

Beauty - An early one was fine but too early to tell much.

Shiro - This is an extremely reliable yellow plum. They are not as flavorful as some of the best but when left to hang a long time they are a nice refreshing treat.

Santa Rosa - Excellent as usual and I got a good crop of them. Will probably need to start thinning next year, every year the fruit set has increased until now its almost to overset.

Flavor Supreme - one excellent fruit on the whole tree.

Weeping SR - In a crammed spot but produces a few great fruits, better than SR by a notch.

Lavinia - I only had a few and some critter got most so only ate not fully ripe ones, but they are looking to be an EXCELLENT plum.. They have an unusual flavor that I call papaya for lack of a better class; its something papaya-ish. Barely turning red at ripening time, very orange flesh. Satsuma sized is their only weakness, no bug etc problems on them.

Flavor King - Birds pecking before they are fully ripe. It also cracked. At least it didn't rot since I sprayed MFF this year. Overall this guy is too much work for my climate and it will probably get removed this winter.

Satsuma - Excellent as usual, overall my favorite because of the huge load, long ripening window, and very good flavor and texture. Produces a huge tasty crop even if not thinned well. I gave some Satsuma plum jam to a friend and they thought I had added cloves to the jam recipe, that is how noticeable the clove flavor is.

Fortune - these plums are red forever and never seem to ripen. I had one that was sort of ripe that was a decent but not great plum. The tree is not setting well.

RubyQueen - This tree set few plums this year after I let it overset last year. Still, even with only a few fruits they had no flavor. Thats two years out of three with no good flavor on this tree, so I removed it.

Pearl - An excellent Euro plum if it would only produce.

French Petite - Flavor excellent when fully ripe; too many bug problems on it however.

Laroda - A late plum something like Santa Rosa. Did not get enough fruits to get a firm opinion but if it starts setting more it could be a good one.

Mariposa - A late red-fleshed plum that seems very good; more experience needed.

Flavor Grenade - Big elongated fruits, great set, and I had no rot this year with MFF. They are good but too much a "sweet candy" taste for me. The tree still has most of the plums hanging and they are improving so the final word is not in yet on this one. Anyway, for a pluot in my climate its awesome, besides the rotting it is reliable and does not crack.

Middleburg - An excellent Euro plum.

None of my Euros produced many fruits, I mis-pruned them for many years (the trees were too closely planted and I left on too many scaffolds and shoots) and turned them into wood machines. Also the curc and OFM really go after them, and the green aphids make a total mess every May and seem to set the trees back all summer. I greatly prefer the Japanese types based on all these problems with the Euros. Its too bad because nothing can beat the rich sweetness of a good tree-ripened European plum.

I added a bunch of new California plums a few years ago and they are starting to fruit now. I am pleasantly surprised that they are not rotting/cracking very much, and bacterial spot has been fine on most of them, but none of them has produced well so far.

Scott

This post was edited by scottfsmith on Mon, Sep 2, 13 at 20:04

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.06.2013 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2013 at 03:48 pm

RE: New cultivars you tried - Success Stories Only (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: planatus on 08.30.2013 at 07:55 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

The rain, rain, rain led to a bodacious outbreak of late blight here in the Southern Appalachians this year, and most tomatoes were dead by Aug. 1. Not Mountain Magic, a blight-resistant cherry tomato developed at NC State. It's still pumping out golf ball-size tomatoes like crazy, with not hint of late blight on a single leaf or fruit, and no cracked fruits either. I am impressed!

Here is a link that might be useful: Mountain magic tomato

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.30.2013 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 08.30.2013 at 09:48 am

RE: Borers again (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: meredith_e on 08.30.2013 at 12:55 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I paint the trunks with 50% white latex paint and 50% water/borer mix. I use spinosad (organic) at the rate used for one application, but if anyone knows a different application rate for painting, please let me know.

I haven't had my trees long, so I'm not sure whether my mix will cut it over time, keep in mind! We do have intense borer problems here, and it's been great so far. We'll see ;)

I spray spinosad a couple of more times during the year, too, for other pests, and I make sure to get the branches and trunks really well. Get the base, too!

The mixing with latex paint is supposed to make it last longer, and a paint covering may help prevent borers as well according to what I read. (It also helps sunburn).

Again, I'm still in the experimental phase myself, lol, but maybe it helps give ideas. I hope the spinosad cuts it because its toxicity is pretty great regarding beneficial insects. I get a lot of mileage out of spiders, preying mantises, ladybugs, etc, in controlling other pests in my little orchard so far, and I hope I can keep that part up if possible.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.30.2013 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 08.30.2013 at 09:39 am

Growing peaches can be interesting

posted by: olpea on 08.29.2013 at 03:57 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

It has been a bit unusual year for us. We started out with a very late spring (it snowed in May, which is unheard of here). As a result of the late frosts, we lost 80% of the crop.

Some peach trees were hardly affected. Redskin, Harrow Beauty and a few others had nearly full crops. Some peach trees hardly had any (i.e. Blazingstar, Harken, etc.) I will note this is the second time Redskin came through with a full crop from late freezes, while other peach trees had a compromised crop. I've never heard Redskin blooms are particularly hardy from spring frosts, but it's looking that way here.

Because of the frosts, we didn't have to thin any peach trees.

The size is extraordinarily large this year. Normally a standard peach is anywhere from 0.4 to 0.45 lbs. A very large peach (softball 3-4") ranges from 0.5 to 0.6 lbs.

This year because of the thin crop, peaches are coming out huge. In the past the biggest peach I've ever raised is 0.82 lbs. This year one of the peaches weighed 1.19 lbs (Both peaches were from Coralstar.) I've sold many peaches this year that weighed over a pound. Once we got through the rains, the flavor has returned to good to very good, in spite of the huge size.

What's interesting to me is the difference in peach size in different peach cultivars. Coralstar is gigantic. Redskin is huge. But Carolina Gold and Contender are small by comparison. Good highly flavored peaches, but I'm amazed how small they are compared to other peaches that ripen in the same window.

My neighbors Elberta peaches are itty bitty by comparison.

It's just interesting to me how peach size can be so determined by genetics.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.30.2013 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 08.30.2013 at 09:35 am

early evaluation of 2 new Rutgers donut peaches

posted by: harvestman on 08.18.2013 at 09:00 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Bear in mind that this is the first season I've tasted fruit from Buenos and Tango2 but I thought a description might help people decide on whether to try either of these two Rutger's creations.

I'm in southern NY, and it has been an exceptionally good season for stone fruit this year, the best I've ever experienced but the following observations are hopefully valid indicators.

BuenOs is subacid, a bit like Saturn but much more color in the fruit's skin, larger and at least a week (maybe 10 days) earlier. Very light yellow flesh instead of white It's also got a meatier texture. It is not as juicy as Saturn either, probably meaning its less subject to brown rot but there's still plenty of juice to make it palatable. I think its color is just beautiful- think tequila sunrise. It keeps in the fridge when firm ripe for two weeks without any change whatsoever. I don't know what it's storage limit will be.

TangO2 is nothing like the original TangO. It is almost a green peach without the same tang as TangO, but an interesting, hard to describe flavor without the acid tang of the original.

It is said to be challenging for the commercial grower but seems easy enough to me. As Olpea suggested last year, it will probably be the perfect peach on sites where bird pecking is a huge issue as the peaches are a unique lime tinted ivory color- not a hue likely to be identified as ripe fruit.

My wife has been taking photos of various fruit this season including these. When the madness of this years incredible harvest is over I will try to submit some photos.

NOTES:

Adams County Nursery
clipped on: 08.20.2013 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2013 at 10:28 pm

RE: How to kill harmful insects while, keeping bees (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: gingertopjoan on 08.18.2013 at 09:39 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

TA DA!!!!!!!!!!!! I AM SO HAPPY TO REPORT THAT I THINK I HAVE SOLVED MY JAPANESE BEATLE PROBLEM ON THE ROSE BUSHES, WITHOUT KILLING ANY BEE'S!!!!!!!!
AFTER MUCH RESEARCH OF READING ALL YOUR MOST KNOWLEDGEBLE AND INSIGHTFUL POSTS, THIS IS WHAT I DID;
4 tbsps. MURPHY OIL SOAP
2 tbsp. OIL OF WINTERGREEN
TO 1 GALLON OF WATER IN A GALLON SPRAYER.
I SPRAYED THE HECK OUT OF THE ROSE BUSHES YESTERDAY AROUND 4 PM.[ 7 KNOCK OUT ROSES VARIETY WHICH ARE JUST PLANTED LAST FALL; THEY ARE ABOUT 3' IN SIZE] SOAKED THEM.
NO SIGN...........NO SIGN OF ANY BEATLES ON ANY OF THEM TODAY. I CHECKED THIS MORNING AND AFTERNOON AND NARRY A SINGLE BEATLE!!!!
I COULD NOT BE MORE PLEASED!!!
THE BUTTERFLIES AND HUMMINGBIRDS CAME AND FED AND LINGERED AS USUAL AND DIDN'T SEEM ALARMED OR DISTURBED AT ALL!!!
I FOUND SOME OIL OF NEEM TODAY AT LOWE'S AND MAY TRY THAT TOO, IF NEEDED. I STILL HAVE THE ROSES OUT FRONT TO DO, STILL, AND I AM OUT OF THE OIL OF WINTERGREEN NOW. IT IS HARD TO FIND; I ENDED UP ORDERING IT FROM WALGREEN'S TODAY.
FYI, MY LOCAL FARM CO-OP STORE IS USELESS, THEY CARRY TONS OF STUFF, BUT , IT IS ALL TOXIC TO BEE'S. I HAD TO RETURN 3 BOTTLES OF THE ^^%$ STUFF!!! AND THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANYTHING SAFE FOR BEE'S. THIS IS WHY OUR BEE POPULATION IS NEAR DEAD!!!! DAMN FARMERS ARE POISONING OUR ENVIRON.!!!! I JUST DON'T GET IT!!! THEY SHOULD!!! WOULDN'T YOU THINK!
I TRUELY HOPE THIS HELPS ANYONE ELSE WHO IS CONCERNED ABOUT THIS PROBLEM!
THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE POSTED! YOU ARE GREAT FOLKS!
BLESSINGS!

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clipped on: 08.19.2013 at 06:49 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2013 at 06:49 pm

RE: Sugest a Sweet Cherry? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fruitnut on 08.16.2013 at 10:43 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Most of my cherries, about 15 varieties, seem to mature about the same time. And while I grew Stella 10 years in Amarillo, it was of such quality I haven't planted it here.

My suggestion for early would be BlackPearl, BurgundyPearl, or EbonyPearl. All bred in NY for eastern conditions. If you want to go later try WhiteGold or BlackGold also bred in NY. All are sold by Adams County Nursery.

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clipped on: 08.17.2013 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 08.17.2013 at 10:10 am

RE: Help me kill the Flea Beetles eating my Eggplants! (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: weedlady on 06.22.2009 at 11:29 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Always the experimenter, and because of space considerations, I put 5 eggplant seedlings in one of my raised beds & covered them immediately with lightweight row cover. I had about another 4-5 plants left that I scattered here & there among other crops. (I mix a lot of things together--I think it is better than monoculture for several reasons, but mostly to confuse insect & to ensure not everything is using the same nutrients.)
The eggplants all went into the ground the same day, but the ones under the row cover grew much faster, are at least a third again as tall, more robust, and set buds earlier than the others. I wonder if it was the "greenhouse effect" with the reemay providing shelter from the winds we often had this spring in addition to trapping more heat.

None of the plants, covered or not, have been attacked by any insects. Since this is my first garden in our new place, I figure part of this is "beginner's luck" (although I am a gardener with 40 years experience!) in that the bugs have not arrived yet! The other reason may well be the fact that I am planting in pure compost obtained from our local municipal yard waste recycling facility. No sewage sludge added; the compost is made on-site from the leaves, grass clippings, tree & shrub trimmings, wood chips from the power companies, landscapers' discards, etc.

In previous gardens I have used DE with success in combatting flea beetles. Used to use rotenone, but since it is an equal-opportunity bug slayer and therefore bad for bees, I quit. I have been known to use it on plants that have not yet flowered, tho not for years.

I also covered 3 of 7 broccoli plants w/reemay and resulting growth rate effect same as eggplant--bigger, faster, stronger. They are heading up before the uncovered plants. Ditto growth of cucumbers, covered vs. uncovered. So I will be using more row cover next spring! CK

I have a wide variety of veggies and have been harvesting all sorts of salad greens, peas, early potatoes, etc., and everything is growing like mad, healthy, and a rich green (except for some melon seedlings that are inexplicably sulking along & just sitting there (no row cover!). Never have been a hand at melons... Other cucurbits do just fine for me. DH does not like melons, so I think he puts a hex on them from the get-go!

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RE: Green Gage Plum (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: theaceofspades on 04.16.2011 at 07:37 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Fruitnut, writer David Karp is from Long Island and grew Green Gage.
His Old Green Gage tree probably never got sprayed and still he got a sweet crop every few years.

Some reports rate Washington Gage as the best of all gage plums. Washington was a Gage seedling from NY, so is Middleburg, I got my tree from Arboreum.

So far I've collected over 200 stone fruit varieties, mostly plums, cots and peaches. Cots do well because there are no late frosts like most places. Cots and plums are in bloom now. Today I went out and hand pollinated a multi grafted cot tree. I am going to update my collection on 'my trade list' after grafting season. Starting this year we will see more and more how stone fruits grow here on Long Island.

In the next few weeks I am grafting and pot growing several multi grafted plum/pluot trees for brix trial. For water stress I'll use a cut out a plastic garbage can during ripening stage.

NOTES:

All messages in this tread are useful.
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RE: Ichiban eggplants (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: grandad on 05.23.2013 at 12:16 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Eggplants begin to lose their glossy sheen at the point when seed formation starts. Seed formation equates to bitterness in some varieties. So you want to pick the eggplant prior to this point. Picking earlier is OK but at the expense of size.

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RE: Jujube varieties (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bonsaist on 10.16.2008 at 09:47 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

All these varieties I have grafted into one tree. The most productive is Abbeville. Abbeville has a more acidy flavor.
Honey Jar and Sugarcane are the sweetest. Tsao is a also very crispy and sweet, but enough pulp around the pit.
My favorite is Li for the size, and sweetness. Some of the Li were the size of an apple.

When I first planted it I was in doubt that it will produce in zone 6. I'm thinking of cutting down my apple, plum and peach trees and replace them with Jujube, Persimmon and Pawpaw because they don't require any spraying or care.

Bass

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clipped on: 07.24.2013 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2013 at 12:27 pm

Jujube varieties

posted by: bonsaist on 10.16.2008 at 08:53 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I'm very happy that I planted a Jujube tree. I started picking fruit around the first week of September, and now I've been picking a basket full daily.

Here's the varieties I have, right to left: Honey Jar, Tsao, Li, Abbeyvile, Sugarcane.

Here is a link that might be useful: trees

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RE: Help from eggplant enthusiasts (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: thandiwe2 on 04.25.2005 at 09:13 pm in Heirloom Plants & Gardens Forum

My eggplant does extremelly well in the part of the garden where I have gone one better than black plasitc--- heavy slate tiles. DH brough home some big heavy black slate/stone tiles and I surrouned the bed that I wanted to plant the eggplant in with them. Well, even hours after sunset the tiles are still warm and the eggplant loves it.

I have grown ping ting long, lousiana long green, fairy tale and cressent moon. This year I am trying Tango from johnny select seed -- the growers site. That seed cost me about $10 for 15 seeds so I must really like eggplant.

My contribution to how to cook them is eggplant quesadilla. I marinate the egglplant slices (skin and all) in a lemon/ olive oil and chilli powder maranade and then either grill or fry in a pretty dry pan. then I stick them in a tortilla with some cheese -- yum!

Tracy

NOTES:

Eggplants like heat so the hotter the better.
clipped on: 07.22.2013 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2013 at 11:03 pm

RE: Need ideas to germinate old old beans (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: fusion_power on 05.01.2007 at 12:20 am in Beans, Peas & Other Legumes Forum

Here is a simple method that is highly successful at germinating old bean seed. It will work if the seed are alive but obviously if they are dead, nothing will help.

Mix 1 teaspoon of miracle grow with 1 gallon of water. Any highly soluble fertilizer with high nitrate will work. Seaweed emulsion in the 5% nitrate range could be used. Use 2 tablespoons of seaweed emulsion because it is less concentrated than miracle grow.

Start seed in a high quality seed mix. It is very important to have air circulation around and through the seed mix. It must be light and highly absorbent. I prefer seed trays because the water can be put in the bottom and will saturate the mix but will not puddle around the seed. Moisten enough mix with the water to fill and lightly pack the tray.

Pour the rest of the gallon of water into the bottom of the tray and let it set for at least an hour. The seed mix should be totally saturated. Pour off enough of the water so the seed tray is only half full.

Now plant the seed. Gently push seed into the mix until just level with the soil. The seed should NOT be covered up. Put the tray in a very warm area, 80 to 85 degrees is just about perfect. They should also be exposed to very bright light. Full sunlight is best but a high quality seed start light will work.

If the seed can grow, it will break the seedcoat within a few days. Because the seed is at the surface, the cotyledons will be exposed to light from the beginning. The seed will send a root down into the mix and start to absorb nutrients. This is the point where you have to watch carefully for weak attachment to the soil. If a seed starts to grow but leans over, put some more seed mix around it to prop it into position until the roots are strong enough to support the plant.

Keep the plants in the tray until the first true leaves have formed, then transplant into prepared soil.

How effective is this? I planted some 8 year old seed this year and got 1% germination in soil. I put some of the same seed in a seed tray and got 60% viable plants. That is a dramatic difference.

Fusion

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RE: Boosting Chances of Germinating 50+ Year Old Seeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carolyn137 on 05.14.2012 at 08:37 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

The documented record as to waking up old seeds was 50 year old seeds that were stored inside in a file cabinet at the Cheyenne, WY, precursor to a USDA station and when the tomato seeds from there were moved to Ames, IA, to the new station germination was done.

I've worked with old seeds but not that old and my best is waking up 22 yo seeds of the tomato variety September Dawn.

You've got one heck of a lot of seeds there at 2 oz, so lots of seeds to work with, BUT, being stored like that who knows.

First, you don't say where you are in a geographic sense and that refers to whether or not the seeds have been frozen in the garage.

If it were me I'd start with a couple of hundred seeds and soak them in water to which you've added some blue stuff, aka Peters or Miracle Grow, or several drops of undiluted fish or seaweed stuff if you are organic in what you do.

Stir the seeds from time to time to get them to sink since old seeds are very dehydrated. The added blue stuff or fish, etc, is b/c they have a high concentration of nitrate ion and that's known to play a part in seed germination although my contacting a couple of tomato seed physiologists brought no answers where the nitrate ion acted although they agreed that it's known to help.

After a couple of days in the soak sow the seeds in a good soilless mix, loosely cover the seed pan with a baggie or similar, but don't use any domes, and when they need to be watered use water to which blue stuff or the fish, etc. has been added.

And then wait. It may take several months so I don't know if that matters in terms of getting anything to plant out this summer and getting maturation b'c again, I don't know where you live.

In the past I've used giberellic acid and potassium nitrate in various concentrations, microwave, cold tea and warm tea, green or black on the tea, as well as a peroxide ( H2O2 treatment, and the best I've found in my experience is what I mentioned above.

Back when it was still possible for non-researchers to request seeds from the USDA Craig LeHoullier and I got lots of seed sent that was low to no germinating so we had lots of seed to play with.

One I remember well was the variety Magnus, which was on the cover of the 1900 Livingston catalog, Craig couldn't get anything up and I got one plant and all seeds out there now for this variety came from that one plant, but not before an amusing story about trying to get fruits from it.

So why not try to wake them up, knowing that the documented record is 50 yo seed and also if you're able to plant anything out for THIS season and get lucky and get something.

Other than that I'd play with the seeds starting in maybe Nov or Dec, again, depending on where you live and grow tomatoes.

Carolyn

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RE: milky spore or beneficial nematode for Japanese beetles (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: stethoruspunctillum on 06.11.2009 at 02:18 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

i'm a landscape tech,Botanist & and im going on my second year of hordaculture in college,in the off season i work in a plant nursery taking care of plants in green house's & hot beds & in my opinion milky spore disease is more effective then predatory nematodes on japanese beetles in the long run,nematodes will have a more immediate effect but die off every 4-6 weeks while milky spore disease lasts up to 3 & a half years and keeps killin beetles,predatory nematodes kill over 250 different species of harmful insects while milky spore disease mainly kills beetles such as the japanese beetle,mexican bean beetle,cucumber beetle & unfortunetly most of the 5000 species of ladybugs & another drawback is it kills ladybugs for years & California has protected ladybugs, mainly the 9 dotted ladybug, with strict rules on contaminating their predator bug habitat so u get fined as much for having milky spore disease as you would for dumping sewage in a lake, & as for a study on nematodes that proves their not effective i'd like to take a look at it,did it say which ones they studied?if you looked at all the known nematode species in alphabetical order and counted how many different species there are for each letter you would average around 300-450 species per letter.There is 2 species of nematode's that stand out the Steinernema Species & the Heterorhabditis Species most often reffered to by predator bug merchants when sold together as "predator nematode double death mix".Don't take my word for it,go to my link,http://www.naturescontrol.com/controls.html & get some hands on knowledge,this is the site that the plant nursery i work for buys their Predator Bugs "A.K.A Hired Bugs" from.As a side note those of you who have OMMP or CMMP cards if your doing indoor,nematode's are better used along with praying mantis's for preventive maintenance & all around keeping your grow room or green house clear of any bugs,if you have a pre-existing spider mite problem that just wont go away i recommend a combination of spider mite predators, more specifically the three species Phytoseiulus persimilis,Neoseiulus californicus & Mesoseiulus longipes.All three types can be used either separately or in any combination.Wen you order your spider mite predators ask for the "Triple Threat" and they will automatically give you a even mix of the three species.If you have an extreme infestation of spider mites in your grow room or green house,like a web net appearing on the top of your plants,most notably on the tops of your flowers/buds,then its time for a battle plan, wat i do is to buy the Triple Threat pack along with a pack of Stethorus punctillam "A.K.A Spider Mite Destroyers,yes thats their real name" then i release a third of the spider mite predators-Triple Threat pack onto my plants,wait a week then let go half my spider mite destroyers,wait another week then release the other half of my spider mite destroyers,then i wait one more week & release the 2/3rds triple threat pack i have left into my grow room/green house to track down & finish any spider mites that are left hiding in any cracks.the spider mite predators look like the spider mites but are a different color and only eat bugs,the spider mite destroyers look like a pure black ladybug,but are much hardier & eats spider mites,eggs & their larvae much more aggressively then any other species of ladybeetle

Here is a link that might be useful: Hired Bugs

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clipped on: 06.27.2013 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2013 at 07:45 pm

RE: raspberry bushes (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Drew51 on 06.21.2013 at 12:52 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

"After raspberry bushes fruit do you cut the bushes down to the ground for next year? "

That depends. If they are June bearing raspberries yes.
If everbearing you can cut the top one third and have a 2nd crop, the 2nd year. Or cut them down after first crop. Your choice to take a 2nd crop, or not.
Some argue it is better to take one crop. I myself disagree.

Some everbearing cultivars really produce a large 2nd crop, like Fall Gold. It's worth taking a 2nd crop. I think others do not produce well, but it also depends on area.
Colder regions have good 2nd crops. I average 50 berries per cane for a 2nd crop on established plants. Sometimes more. But if you are getting a small 2nd crop, it may be better just to cut down. Always cut right to the ground, as close as possible, leave no stalk!!

So first you have to know if you have June or everbearing raspberries.

First year cains are called primocanes. 2nd year canes are called florocanes sometimes spelled floricanes.
Usually florocanes are brown and look old. Primocanes are green! So never cut down green canes, unless thinning canes. Sometimes a plant produces many primocanes that are too close, 6 inches in general is OK, but on new plants, let them get established before thinning. Thin the 2nd year.

June bearing raspberries do not fruit on primocanes, they must age a year, and they fruit on florocanes.
Everbearing fruit on both. The top 1/3 on primocanes, and the bottom 2/3 on florocanes, the next year. If you do two crops, make sure you cut off the part that fruited. The top 1/3, they will fruit much much better the next year if you do.

It is confusing because both June and everbearing can have both primocanes and florocanes. They often are crowded together, Making cuts can be difficult. Another reason why some just cut everbearing to the ground after 1st crop. It makes it a lot easier to manage. I myself want more berries and I have to deal with both with my June bearing plants (I have both), so no getting away from it for me even if I did cut them down.

This post was edited by Drew51 on Fri, Jun 21, 13 at 1:12

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RE: birds out of blueberries (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: treehugger100 on 06.14.2013 at 07:00 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

10' x 5'. The water approved PVC comes in 10' lengths so we just made it easy. In this one, there are 3 hoops at the top like this.

NOTES:

Make a door with over lapping netting.
clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 07:35 pm

RE: Any luck keeping mulberry smallish? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: harvestman on 06.12.2013 at 05:29 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Prune them like hell. You can stub them back or train them to a weep, but prune them a couple of times during the growing season and you can keep them in bounds. They bear on same year wood so as long as you keep smaller pieces of wood regenerating they can bear well no matter how you prune them.

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clipped on: 06.12.2013 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2013 at 01:56 pm

RE: Anybody growing black currant in MN? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: soilent_green on 05.21.2013 at 11:15 pm in Minnesota Gardening Forum

Obviously your preference is black currant which is great, but I must say the others are quite tasty as well. My tastes lean to the tart side of things versus sweet, though. My favorite is the Pink Champagne currant - appearance and mildly tart flavor reminds me of little marble-size grapefruits. Jonkheer red is excellent flavor, average size berries, average production. Rovada red is fantastic flavor, large berries, average production. Red Lake Improved is very good flavor, large berries, very good production. Original Red Lake is excellent flavor, very good production, but small berries are a royal pain to deal with. The small, tasty berries make what I consider to be THE BEST currant pie. Blanka White is my least favorite - mediocre flavored but productive with large berries and makes a good bulk filler berry for preserves and pies. Ben Sarek is good flavor, good production, good size berries, but bush is weak and susceptible to partial freeze-out. Could just be that I have an unhealthy plant, though.

You have me interested in trying some of those other varieties you mentioned, so I think it is time for me to expand my berry patch.

You would be lucky to get some first year production, but after that it does not take long for full production to kick in. At three years I was getting one or two cups of berries per plant. Every year since then I have been filling gallon-size freezer bags. Patience has its rewards. :)

NOTES:

need an addition to my Blanka!!
clipped on: 06.09.2013 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2013 at 09:03 pm

Plums and other fruits protection from PC and OFM

posted by: tonytran on 06.02.2013 at 04:30 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I did some testing of zip lock bagging and Bouffant disposable hair net on the plums and apples to see which one can withstand severe weather and strong winds. Three days ago we had wind gusts up to 50 miles an hour and the Bouffants won the test. One third of the bagged apples snapped off the branches. All the Bouffant wrapped fruits stayed intact. The Bouffants had tiny little holes for water and air passed through and they were lighter than the sandwich zip lock bags. Next year I will go with the Bouffants on the plums.

Tony

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clipped on: 06.03.2013 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 06.03.2013 at 12:30 am

RE: black knot (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: harvestman on 05.30.2013 at 04:56 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I cut them the moment I see them. I often spray the wounds with chlorathalinil although there is no obvious benefit. Remove affected tissue from site. Make sure you cut deeply and well into healthy wood.

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clipped on: 06.03.2013 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 06.03.2013 at 12:25 am

RE: black knot (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: harvestman on 05.30.2013 at 04:59 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Should have mentioned that you want to do it when things are dry. OK if rains coming but wood should be dry when you cut. I'm not sure if sterilizing tools with a bleach solution between cuts is useful but I don't bother. If I was only managing a few trees I probably would.

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clipped on: 06.03.2013 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 06.03.2013 at 12:25 am