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RE: recomendation for Shelly BUSH Bean varieties (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: zeedman on 08.19.2012 at 01:13 am in Beans, Peas & Other Legumes Forum

While the majority of my shell beans are pole, I have grown a few good bush shellies. Since you are located in Canada, I will comment on those carried by Heritage Harvest seeds. Their bean selection is outstanding.

My favorite bush shelly is "Giant Red Tarka", an heirloom Hungarian variety. It has vigorous, high-yielding plants, huge red & white seeds that shell easily, and is very early for a bean of that size. In my climate, I had the first shellies at 80 days, and dry seed at 90 days. The shellies are very tender, and can be mashed like potatoes when cooked. If I ever choose to grow only bush shellies, this is the one I would choose. I believe Heritage Harvest carries a similar bean, "Piros Feher", which closely matches the description; but the strain I grow seems to have more red coloration.
Photobucket
Giant Red Tarka shellies

I have also grown "Pepa de Zapallo", under its alias "Tiger Eye". The plants are only moderately productive, but the shellies are large, attractively colored, and delicious.

You might want to consider "Deseronto Potato Bean", which is a Canadian heirloom. There is a thread about it on this forum.

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clipped on: 01.10.2013 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2013 at 07:24 pm

RE: Tomatoes and no time to work with them (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: digdirt on 07.19.2012 at 09:35 am in Harvest Forum

I would have just washed them, cut out the cores and tossed them whole into a freezer bag and into the freezer. They don't need to be blanched.

When they thaw the peels slip right off and they are ready to do whatever you want with them.

Freezing tomatoes whole for later processing, with or without the cores, is a very common practice and frequently discussed here.

Dave

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clipped on: 07.20.2012 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2012 at 10:17 pm

RE: What plant have you suddenly gotten tired of? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: calliope on 07.06.2010 at 01:13 am in Perennials Forum

Rudbeckia Goldsturm. That stuff should be on an invasive plant list. It's even choking out a little patch of aegopodium. Halfway through their bloom season they look like somebody took a shotgun to them for all the holes in the foliage.

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clipped on: 08.19.2011 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2011 at 07:53 pm

RE: Shipping live plants (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: thisismelissa on 07.05.2011 at 11:06 pm in Perennials Forum

When you buy hostas via mail order, they come with the dirt completely washed off the roots.
Wrap in a moist paper towel, then wet newspapers, then plastic wrap.
Then, wrap the entire plant in dry newspaper... kinda roll it up inside. This will help keep the foliage in tact.

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clipped on: 07.07.2011 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2011 at 05:54 pm

RE: Climbing Hydrangea (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: ianna on 04.26.2011 at 01:05 pm in Gardening in Canada Forum

Dear Christina,

They will do great against a brick fence or growing up a tree or a stand alone arbor or the beams of a heavy trellis. I just won't recommend them as vines against a house. They can be very damaging because of many factors. They have claspers that dig in the brick. They trap moisture which can lead to rot or mold issues. They can grow up to the eaves and cause further damage. Plus that they make great ladders for creatures such as mice.

Ianna

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clipped on: 06.04.2011 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2011 at 06:47 pm

RE: Purple-est cimicifuga? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: maureen_ottawa on 06.18.2007 at 11:38 am in Perennials Forum

Hillside Black Beauty is the darkest. Pink Spike is the tallest. Black Negligee is the fastest growing. James Compton is the shortest. Atropurpurea and Brunette are the easiest to find as they've been around the longest. I've divided these two at least once.

I am finding HBB and Pink Spike somewhat slow growing. But they are also newer. They should be doing their leap in growth next year.

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clipped on: 06.02.2011 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2011 at 09:10 pm

RE: Good yarrow, bad yarrow? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: linlily on 04.27.2011 at 08:56 pm in Perennials Forum

Definitely stay away from any variety that has "Achillea millefolium" in the name. They can be uncontrollable.

I've had the same clump of Achillea "Anthea" for years and it never gets out of hand. It's a nice light yellow that is not garrish and goes with everything. No underground runners!

I also have some King Edward Dwarf Yarrow or Wooly Yarrow and it has not caused any problems either. It's just so cute and small. Great for the front of the border.

Linda

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clipped on: 05.03.2011 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2011 at 07:03 pm

RE: Delphinium seedlings in August (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: oilpainter on 08.17.2009 at 06:06 pm in Perennials Forum

Yes I would transplant them into individual pots with good drainage holes now and then sink them pot and all into the ground later. Leave only about 1/4 inch of the pot showing. Do this when you would plant tulips in your area. Give them a good mulch (i use dry leaves)but leave the top of the plant showing. Then in spring you can dig up the pots and plant the seedlings where you want them.

Look for a bit of a sheltered area where there is good snow cover to put the pots to give the plants the best chance of survival. I have done this many times and usually the plants do fine

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clipped on: 08.18.2009 at 04:04 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2009 at 04:04 pm

RE: A Picture from Everyone- from Spring 2009 (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: aftermidnight on 06.29.2009 at 07:16 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

C ~ When you go to prune follow each piece of vine back to 6 sets of leaves and cut. In the spring after the last frost follow each piece of vine back to 4 sets of leaves and cut, and see if that helps. It might take a year or two of doing this but it usually works.

Annette

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for non-blooming wisteria :)
clipped on: 06.30.2009 at 12:42 am    last updated on: 06.30.2009 at 12:42 am

RE: Achilleas/Yarrows - opinions? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: linlily on 06.07.2009 at 03:14 pm in Perennials Forum

I have Athena, which is a lighter version of Coronation Gold. It's a creamy yellow color which goes with about everything. And it's VERY well behaved. My daughter had some of the pink ones, while they are pretty when in bloom, they are not worth the aggrevation of trying to get rid of them when they start to spread everywhere. Her pink ones went under a sidewalk and came up the other side, into cracks between the sidewalk slabs, into the grass, etc. Any yarrow that has "millefolium" in the name, I'd stay far away from.

Linda

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clipped on: 06.17.2009 at 07:11 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2009 at 07:12 pm

RE: Pincushions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: paulah-gardener on 05.27.2009 at 08:47 am in Quilting Forum

I use coffee grounds (used and then dried) as filling for pincushions. Using a funnel to fil. They sit nice and donot roll off work service. Paula

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clipped on: 05.28.2009 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2009 at 12:49 pm

RE: Poppy questions - Can you help? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: plantmaven on 04.06.2009 at 06:00 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I am definitely not in your zone, but this is how I plant poppy seeds.

Combine the seeds with twice as much sugar as seeds and they will more likely be spaced ok. Plus the sugar will feed them. Sprinkle them with your fingers, just like you sprinkle sugar.
From experience, I know you can transplant them when they are tiny. Right after they get their first leaves.

Let the seed heads dry on the plant until you can hear the seeds rattle inside and the little hat pops up. Sprinkle some of the seeds where you want them to grow next year.
Save the other half to plant next spring.
I have better luck with seeds I plant at the time they would be falling to the ground naturally.

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clipped on: 04.24.2009 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 04.24.2009 at 11:29 am

RE: A one-sided love affair with Clematis (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 04.18.2009 at 05:48 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Contrary to popular opinion, clematis do not require a limey soil to do well. This myth originated because some of the English clematis were found growing on limey soil and everyone assumed that the lime was responsible for their vigor. What was not realized is that in England, the limey soil held deposits of moisture and consistent moisture is something that is definitely needed by clematis to be happy. It is not keeping their feet shaded either. What is present in shaded soil, whether by mulch or rock or other shallow rooted plants is moisture.

Another key to clematis success is treating all pruning types of clematis as types III the first two or three years in the ground. This stimulates root development and the emergence of more stems from the ground. In addition, planting clematis several inches deeper in the ground than they are in their original containers buries dormant nodes that can result in new stems developing from the soil line and if you plant a clematis that is prone to wilt or is killed back to ground level, gives the plant nodes to resurrect itself from.

For those of us in the hotter zones, I suggest not planting the type II large blooming hybrids. They tend to wilt more and brown out for me severely in the middle of our hot summers. This can be remedied by cutting the plants back severely, keeping them watered well and fertilized, and they rebloom in the late summer/early fall. All things considered, if I were to do my garden over, there would not be a single type II clematis in it. I tend to prefer the US native species and the viticella hybrids. They tend to do much better for me.

As for pruning back, I cut mine back to within a 2-3 inches of the ground each year--this includes my type IIs since my growing season is long enough that I can still get two bloom cycles out of them even though they bloom on older wood.

Another piece of advice is not to plant small clematis plants directly in the ground unless you know you will make sure you give them TLC the whole first year they are planted. I prefer potting up smaller clematis and growing them out in one gallon sized pots until the roots have filled the pots. This way you know the plants are getting adequate moisture and fertilization. I also prefer planting clematis in late winter (Feb. or so) or in the fall as our springs can turn to hot dry summers so fast that the plants don't have a chance to get established well before the adverse weather arrives. I have planted clematis as late as Halloween and had great success with them. This will vary of course depending on your individual growing conditions.

Fertilization, what can I say about it. Some people think more is never enough. Too much nitrogen will promote nothing but vegetative growth. I prefer something with a higher middle number which is phosphorus since it stimulates root growth and ultimately bloom production. I also prefer a slow release fertilizer to a generic fertilizer since it slowly releases nutrients instead of a fast instantaneous nitrogen fix. This can be an organic fertilizer such as compost of various sorts, organic Espoma fertilizers, rose fertilizers, alfalfa pellets, or tomato fertilizers or it can be an inorganic slow release fertilizers such as Osmocote.

The last thing I want to mention is pinching out the growing tips as the plants first begin to emerge from the ground. Allow the plant to develop three to five sets of leaves and then pinch the growing tip out. This will stimulate axillary bud breaks which will double the number of vines that can produce flowers. Once those axillary buds break and start developing new leaves, allow 3 to 5 leaves to form and then pinch that growing tip out. Failure to prune all clematis as type III clematis at least the first if not the second year and failure to pinch out growing tips are prime reasons why clematis plants stay single stemmed plants that fail to prosper.

Here are a few pictures of me pinching out the growing tips of a clematis for clarification.

Final pinched out plant.

I know it looks harsh but it works. I have tons of clematis now that are coming up as multistemmed plants that grow like weeds.

This picture was taken a few weeks ago. I need to go out and take an after shot showing the growth after all that pinching.

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clipped on: 04.20.2009 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2009 at 02:37 pm

RE: off topic - gladioli (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: midnightsmum on 02.13.2009 at 02:50 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I'd forgotten about that thread!! The bleach solution for the corms is a good idea for all imported bulbs, rhizomes. It is necessary thing for oriental lilies, as it will kill any japanese beetle eggs on them.

Nancy.

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clipped on: 02.16.2009 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 02.16.2009 at 11:21 am

Easy Photo Posting Instructions (K8)

posted by: solstice98 on 06.30.2008 at 07:54 pm in Quilting Forum

I've seen a few requests for this information since I started posting on the Quilting Forum, so I thought I would just enter it all here. If this doesn't work for you or if you have problems, send me an email and I'll see if I can help. I love to see pictures so I'm happy to help anyone make that happen!
Photobucket

DON'T BE NERVOUS! This may sound complicated the first time but once you've done it you'll see it's easy and fun. You'll be posting pictures every time you visit the forum!

First of all, you need an account on a photo sharing site where you can store some pictures. You can't link directly to photos in your computer. Photobucket is the one I use the most and I think it's very, very easy, but Picasa, Kodak Gallery, and several other sites work just as well, I'm sure. These sites all have free accounts available and so you can start posting photos today without any expense. Cool, huh?

Photobucket.com

So, once you have the account set up, follow the instructions for uploading pictures from your computer. You can add them one at a time, or upload several at once. (See below for some thoughts on setting up albums.) Don't worry about losing them. You are just copying them to Phtoobucket and you'll keep them on your computer. Besides being able to share them, it's also a good backup for your most precious pictures.

When you have some photos loaded, your page will look something like this:

Photobucket Sample

To add a photo directly into your forum message, click once on the line under the photo that's labeled HTML Code. Then go to your message in the Quilt Forum (or whichever forum you want) and paste it into your text message. It will show up just as text until you hit the "Preview Message" button. Then the picture should show up. If it doesn't, check to be sure you selected the HTML Code line instead of one of the others.

You can add as many pictures to a single message as you want, but if you do more than 3 or 4 it gets very slow to open for people who use dial up.

Here's a good thing to understand: your picture doesn't really get transferred to GardenWeb. What happens is that the HTML code is telling GardenWeb (with magic computer instructions) where to go in Photobucket to find the photo AND it's also telling it to display the photo. If you delete the photo or even move it in Photobucket to a different album, GardenWeb will still have the old instructions and won't be able to find it. The link will be broken. If you edit the picture in Photobucket, making it smaller or adding a border, that will show up the next time someone looks at the message in GardenWeb. The real picture stays in Photobucket - GardenWeb just temporarily imports it each time someone opens your post. I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't let me know and I'll try again!

About albums: When you first set up your account, you'll see where you can "Add a new album". Since you won't want to move photos later (because you'll break the link), it's a good idea to set up a few albums right away. I suggest one for Home (house pictures), one for pets, one for garden, one for quilts, one for vacations, etc. It's easy to add them at any time so they don't need to all be set up right away, but a couple are a good idea. I even have one called Miscellaneous for any pictures that don't see to fit anywhere else!

Kate

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clipped on: 11.03.2008 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2008 at 10:44 pm

RE: How do you choose? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sadie709 on 07.01.2008 at 04:45 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

when you go to the garden center and walk by, you will hear them calling out to you. "pick me" , "hey you, over here" and "if he gets to go i want to come too". then there are the flirty types. "ain't I pretty" , "you're gonna love me" and "you can't live without me".
I'm a sucker always falling for a good line.

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clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 10:40 am    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:40 am

RE: What do you interplant with spring bloomers that die down? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: irene_dsc on 06.25.2008 at 10:16 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Well, at my old house, I had grape hyacinths interplanted with my lavender. Every year, I would cut back the lavender just as the grape hyacinth foliage was emerging. They would bloom, then get nicely covered by the lavender. I took some to the new house, and I'm not as happy with where they are now - the foliage is too conspicuous right now for my taste.

I had daffodils further back in that same border.

I'm considering planting bulbs in between my Russian sage, because it is awfully late to emerge and get going.

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clipped on: 06.26.2008 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 06.26.2008 at 10:48 am

RE: Clematis question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: herblady49 on 04.11.2008 at 10:42 am in Cottage Garden Forum

I have two Jackmanii. One I cut 6" above the ground because I want bloom from the bottom to the top. The other, which grows on a tall arbor, I prune about 8 ft from the bottom, because I only want blooms on the top. Both are planted in full sun, but I underplant with shallow rooted annuals. Clematis love being watered deeply, but don't like standing water, and fertilized every 3-4 weeks during the growing season. A new Clematis benefits by being cut back 3-6 inches from the ground, because this will promote more basal growth.

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clipped on: 04.11.2008 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 04.11.2008 at 11:09 am

thrillers, fillers, spillers

posted by: manzomecorvus on 05.24.2007 at 12:33 pm in Potager Gardens Forum

I don't know about the rest of y'all,but it seems there is lots of books on how to create raised bed gardens and lots of books on how to grow veggies. There still isn't, however, a lot of info on how to combine veggies, flowers, and herbs to get that "wow".

Well I picked up a magazine last night (Vol 4 Container Gardens - Fine Gardening/Taunton Press) and I realized the container formula they were talking outa work the same for a raised bed.

Here's the formula (copied from a longer thread on the container forum):
"Now if you want something more exciting, think in terms of combinations according to this recipe: thriller, filler, spiller. The thriller is a big, bold, plant with height and presence that you put in center or back/center of the pot, the spillers obviously come out of the pot and cascade down, fillers are the in between ones that complement and weave through the thriller. A simple shade formula is Elephant Ear for the thriller, coleus for the fillers, and creeping jenny for the spiller. Elephant Ears come in green, chartreuse (Lime Zinger) or Purples so dark they look black. Coleus come in every shade and variegation you can almost imagine and the creeping jenny is chartreuse."

In fact, I have been doing some of this, but certainly not consistently in every bed. For example,in one bed I already have beans on a teepee (thriller). Now I am thinking I need to plant some basil around the base (filler) and plant some verbena along the edge (spiller). Another bed I have anise hyssop (thriller), now I need to plant some dwarf blanketflower (filler) and maybe some fanflower or hanging oregano (spiller).

So here's my question to y'all. Can we put our heads together and think of some commonly grown plants we can use for these different categories? I am ready to do some experimentation!

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clipped on: 04.07.2008 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2008 at 12:08 pm

RE: My first quilt (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: day2day on 04.02.2008 at 12:40 pm in Quilting Forum

Great job.Hard to believe it's your first completed quilt. You're off to a wonderful start.
Some scientists say that geometric designs in bright colors are really good for a baby's brain development.
~Geraldine

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clipped on: 04.02.2008 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2008 at 11:17 pm

RE: What colors do you garden with? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: jo_in_tx on 03.31.2008 at 08:14 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

My back garden consists of most colors, except for red. I find that the purples, lavenders, apricots, oranges, yellows, blues, pink, and some white blend well together, but when I throw in some red, the garden starts to look like "the gardener" was on drugs when she planted. :)

My side bed by the driveway consists of lots of red and some white - mostly pentas and salvia for the butterflies. This way, I can enjoy all colors!

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clipped on: 03.31.2008 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2008 at 11:14 pm

RE: Gallica Charles de Mills pruning (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: olga_6b on 03.16.2008 at 06:28 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Yes, you can. It will not compromize your blooms. Gallicas bloom on a new growth, that is coming from the last year growth. So if you shorten your canes, for example 1/3 you will promote more side growth and as a result more blooms, not less. Additional benefit is that your bush will support its blooms, you will escape seeing your blooms in the mud after the rain. This is an old wifes tale that old European oncebloomers should be pruned only after the bloom. You can't see the structure of a rose when it is covered with leaves. So after the bloom it is a good time to shape your bush, but major pruning is better if it is done in late fall or winter. I don't think it is too late now. I just pruned several of my gallicas, that escaped winter pruning somehow, last week. I do my pruning this way for the last 20 years and my gallicas always bloom like crazy.
Olga

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clipped on: 03.17.2008 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2008 at 01:08 pm

RE: quilted curtains? And jean rag suggestion. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nana24 on 01.10.2008 at 11:03 am in Quilting Forum

Vicky,
When my grandchildren were younger I made curtains for the room we had for a play room. We moved and the children are older with no need for a playroom so I cut the curtains as they were too short for my sewing room and just made a valance from them. The curtain is just plain pocket rod and the bottom is a row of paper pieced blocks with initials of each child and a block for their birthday. They are 6" blocks set together with 2' strips. I put a backing but no batting just in the area behind the blocks. The purpose was to cover the seams. We all like them and the children like to pick out the blocks that are especially for them.

In my laundry room, I have just a valance on which I machine appliqued some random strip blocks and a piece of machine embroidery.

I think your idea sounds great.
Sally

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clipped on: 01.11.2008 at 10:37 am    last updated on: 01.11.2008 at 10:37 am

RE: I was offended (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: fishymamas on 08.09.2007 at 04:44 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Smile sweetly and ask him if he does think size matters after all?

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clipped on: 10.30.2007 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2007 at 11:57 pm

RE: Technical question: vines/flowers on the house (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rosefolly on 07.03.2007 at 05:36 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

There are plants that physically damage the structure, and plants that do not. However, any plant that is on the house provides a pathway for termites. What you can do is put a trellis about 18" away from the wall, brace it, and grow your plants on that. This gives you three added advantages. It gets your plants out of the "rain shadow" of the roof. It improves air circulation, reducing disease of the plants. Finally, it allows you to get to the plants from all sides for pruning and other care. It is what I have done at my house, and I am very pleased with it.

Rosefolly

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clipped on: 07.05.2007 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 07.05.2007 at 11:31 am

RE: What would the Neighbors think? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: pagan on 04.22.2007 at 09:18 am in Antique Roses Forum

I think my neighbors are sort of used to me... I spend a great deal of time outside just staring at things, willing them to grow. I did hear a loud burst of laughter one day when they heard me telling a new rose to "Live long and prosper!"

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clipped on: 04.22.2007 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2007 at 09:41 pm

What would the Neighbors think?

posted by: celestialrose on 04.21.2007 at 09:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi All!

After waiting not-too-patiently for the snow to melt and for the temps to finally feel like Spring I was finally able to get out in my garden today for the first time. Spring came very late for us this year, and today felt like heaven. I was so happy to see my old "friends" (my roses) that I didn't realize I was talking to each of them as I pulled away the mulch & straw to behold them for the first time since last Fall. I was congratulating some of them for coming through our weird & wacky winter with so little dieback and exclaiming how beautiful they looked. For those who didn't fare as well, I was apologizing and expressing my sorrow that I had to prune off so much. I even went so far as to reassure each bush that in no time, it would be even more stunningly beautiful after its "haircut". I was so busy fussing over my roses that I didn't see my neighbor was peering over the fence to see who I was talking to. She looked confused because I was obviously talking to rosebushes (and bare rosebushes at that) and referring to them as "sweetheart" and "my poor baby". She politely asked how the roses were doing after the winter we had...all the while looking at the bare brown twigs I had just called "beautiful" and I am sure thinking what a NUT I am. She is a nice lady and will come over occasionally in the summer to check them out so she's cool.
Our neighbors on the other side are an interesting mix. The wife is dabbling with gardening a little but I am sure she envies me that my husband is out there in the garden with me every free minute he has. Her husband comes home from work and drinks beer on the porch and belches loudly while she putters around in the yard alone. DH and I were outside digging up a new garden bed a while back when the husband yelled out "what's that going to be?" and when DH told him another rose garden the guy groaned... "MORE roses?"....followed by a lot of incoherent mumbling.
My DH said something about a happy wife is a good wife, and the guy's wife poked him in the ribs and said "did you hear that?". I don't think he likes living next to us.

I would like to hear how YOUR neighbors react to your gardening and roses in particular!

Celeste

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clipped on: 04.22.2007 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2007 at 09:40 pm

RE: Climate vs hardiness (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lionheart on 04.21.2007 at 04:48 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Vigor is the secret, and it's not necessarily a zone-hardiness thing. A vigorous rose, even if it's not cane hardy, will grow back and bloom, assuming it blooms on new wood. Oh, it won't get as big as in warmer zones, and it will have fewer bloom cycles due to a shorter season, but it can perform well despite dying back to the mulch line.

Westerland is NOT terribly vigorous, as I've seen from its reluctance to grow even under ideal conditions. It's not cane hardy for me either. I could forgive it for not being cane hardy if it was vigorous. Westerland's canes die back to the mulch line in all but the mildest of our winters. That would be ok *if* it grew back with a number of canes that made it to 3 or 4 feet tall and bloomed well. But it doesn't. I've tried Westerland grafted AND own root. No difference.

There are other 1-2 cane wonders that are somewhat cane hardy but have no vigor, so they never really make anything of themselves. As we've seen, they're the ones that barely hang on for a few years. No vigor amongst those pups.

Examples of what I consider vigorous are Ballerina and some of the Austins like Pat Austin and, to a lesser extent, Graham Thomas. None of these roses are normally cane hardy in zone 5. They die back to the protection line almost every winter (I never used winter protection for them). But.....they bounce back in the spring/summer, put out a good number of canes, get anywhere from 3.5 to 5 feet tall, and bloom reasonably well.

Hardiness is zone survival. Ideally, you'd like the canes to be somewhat hardy, but that's not always possible. Vigor is the ability to bounce back, to put out significant new growth and bloom despite the setbacks of winter; it's a mission to grow and reproduce (bloom).

From what I've observed so far, if a rose doesn't throw out canes readily, and it doesn't put out much growth under good conditions, then it really doesn't matter if it's cane hardy or not. It's going to be a wimp.

Obviously, vigor is useless on non-cane hardy roses that require old wood for blooming. :-)

So, good vigor can compensate for cane hardiness, all things considered. The trick is finding out which roses fall into that category.

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clipped on: 04.22.2007 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2007 at 08:14 pm

RE: encouraging new basal canes... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dublinbay on 04.19.2007 at 10:13 am in Antique Roses Forum

That's what alfalfa is for, Pagan. If you search this site, you will find many, many postings about alfalfa and what a great growth stimulant it is. The big question is whether you want to use pellets, meal, or tea form. It all works, but pellets are slower (but easier to apply) and tea is faster (but more work).

You can get a 50 lb bag of alfalfa pellets from your local farm/grain store for maybe $10. I spread 1-2 cups around the drip line of roses (less for new or smaller roses, more for large, established roses) and WATER IN WELL. In a few weeks you should see some new basal breaks.

By the way, it is not a fertilizer per se. You use it in addition to your regular fertilizer.

You'll love it--try it!

Kate

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clipped on: 04.19.2007 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 04.19.2007 at 12:31 pm

RE: My Quilt-As-You-Go Learning Experience (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: laurainsdca on 04.16.2007 at 09:42 pm in Quilting Forum

It looks great!!!

How hard could it be? HA HA HA! I once sewed a bunch of, er, shall we say "whimsical" hearts in a baby quilt I made. I just kept going though a little voice in my head was screaming "Stop, turn back, abort, abort..." Later that night the voice got louder and louder and after a night of no sleep the seam ripper came out and all the hideous hearts were removed... That was my attempt at free motion. I never thought of using a walking or regular foot.

I'll be standing by to hear your report on sewing it all together -- I'm considering a quilt as you go on a large quilt I'm currently making -- joining large sections -- but the more I consider it the more I worry it will be really hard to join it neatly.

But again, how hard could it be? (Isn't that the question that got us ALL into quilting? LOL)

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clipped on: 04.17.2007 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 04.17.2007 at 11:15 am

RE: I've got three peppers... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lindac on 04.15.2007 at 10:29 am in Cooking Forum

I love just fried peppers and onions...
Slice a big sweet onion and slice up the peppers and fry in olive oil slowly intil done..tender.
Season with salt and pepper and serve with a loaf of crusty bread, or as a side to a steak.
I always feel like I am a chatacter in The Godfather when I do that! Seems like in the book they were always mentioning about someone frying up a mess of peppers and onions and how good it smelled.
Linda C

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RE: What new plant or garden feature are you trying this year? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: boondoggle on 03.18.2007 at 01:26 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Hi, I came to this post a little late, but I just had to tell you all that when I told DH about "Speak friend and enter" over the door knocker, he replied, "We should paint 'The Way Is Shut!'"

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RE: More Plants to Think twice about before planting... (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: marcia_pa5 on 03.23.2007 at 08:38 am in Perennials Forum

I have Malva moschata. It self sows very freely and produces tons of seeds, making it hard to keep up with deadheading. Once the plants are established, the roots go deep so it is hard to dig them out. Your plant is Malva sylvestris, and that seeds much, much less freely for me.
Marcia

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clipped on: 04.11.2007 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 04.11.2007 at 11:58 am

RE: does freezing kill a tender seed? ie. tomato seed? confused (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trudi_d on 04.07.2007 at 07:37 am in Winter Sowing Forum

"I'm confused, because some people talk about coddling their tomatoes, but I thought Trudi's website indicated that the tomatoes can be WSed in the cold of the winter??? "

I don't talk about coddling toms and never will talk about it, I am completely against coddling any plants.

Toms are native to Peru...that's where the Andes are. I've had tom seeds take negative numbers here and germinate just fine the following Spring.

Recently on this forum, a poster sprouted tom seedlings inside and then took them outside and they froze and expired and this started the annual debate over toms being able to be WSed and so it remains controversial, but only to people who haven't done it a few seasons. There are ideas to assist you in your success.

First, indoor seedlings do not have the same tolerances that WS seedlings do have.

Toms are from a temperate climate, not a tropical climate.

People in short growing seasons need to select toms that are recommended for early or short seasons. Choosing a 100DTM tom when you've got an 80 day season will get you lots of green tomatoes--which is fine if you like green tomatoes. But to quote Mr Spock "It is not logical."

Finally, there will always be beginners who find that the method isn't for them...they cannot let go of indoor-germination ideologies and learn to trust Mother Nature to cull out the weak. It's impossible for them to let any seedlings fail. This is not a knock on them, they have caring natures and that is shown in their want for everything to survive and difficulty in accepting that in the natural world only the strongest will survive--and that is the purpose of WS--to create a garden with the hardiest of hardy seedlings which grow into the hardiest of hardy plants. Weak seeds don't sprout, weak seedlings fail.

WS is an ideology as well as a method, if someone can't accept the idedolgy they will be unhappy with the method-- and this is fine. WS is tailored to the individual--it is adaptable. Some people will not become WSers, they understand why it works, but cannot stomach the Live and Let Die ideology, and so the method isn't for them.

AFAIK your seeds are fine. Keep the faith and let us know what happens. If you want to try with more seeds let me know, contact me through my GW link and send me your address--I'll be happy to get some into the mail to you today.

T

Here is a link that might be useful: I so believe in WSing toms that I'll even give you the seeds to try it!

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clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:35 am

RE: The lack of a defined bed edging makes perennial beds look me (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: aachenelf on 04.01.2007 at 07:32 pm in Perennials Forum

I use brick too, except for my woodland garden. It did have a border of bricks there and never like it. One day I ripped them all out and had this brilliant idea to use this pile of branches, large twigs and even an old christmas tree I had laying around. I cut them up in various lengths and just started weaving them all together to edge the woodland area. I love the look! Some of the branches are starting to rot and grow moss which makes the whole thing look even better. As I pick up stray branches in the yard, they get weaved in too.

Kevin

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clipped on: 04.02.2007 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 04.02.2007 at 11:47 am

RE: Keeping them pure in a community garden (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bugagi on 03.30.2007 at 05:34 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I was in a community garden for a couple of years. I bagged my blossoms and had no problems with purity. A typical community garden plot isn't that big so this takes seconds. just make sure you bag the blossoms BEFORE they bloom.

However, if you plant early and save seeds from the earliest fruits, you may choose not to bag. A lot of people choose to save the earliest fruits.

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RE: My quilts aren't warm enough - what to do? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sandra_ferguson on 03.25.2007 at 02:46 pm in Quilting Forum

I've made myself a quilt with wool batting and I absolutely LOVE it.....VERY warm, while being light as a feather. I made my daughter a quilt and used Thinsolate...she says it's so warm she can only use the quilt when it's REALLY cold. Both of these would make you a very warm quilt

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RE: wanna-be-a-quilter (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mollie_booklover on 01.03.2007 at 01:34 pm in Quilting Forum

Hi P4Vicki, I like that pattern and think it is perfect for a man.
This may sound too simplistic, but it has worked for me and friend-quilters. For a swirly or circular patterned quilt, use straight lines for the quilting and for geometric or straight-line patterns (like yours), use circular quilting patterns. The contrast makes the quilting stand out more and is attractive IMO.
For example, using three concentric circles about 1 1/2"-2" apart in a block area is fairly easy and nice. You would measure off equal-sized block areas and place the round (or whatever) pattern in the designated blocks rather than using the brick shapes in the quilt to place the circles...If hand quilting, you quilt around in a circle. I don't know what circular patterns are used best with machine quilting.
Good luck finding something you really like.


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clipped on: 01.04.2007 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 01.04.2007 at 11:42 am

Have you ever hidden something in a quilt label?

posted by: sunnycentralfl on 12.18.2006 at 11:34 pm in Quilting Forum

While finishing up 3 quilts for the grands, I decided to write a note on fabric, fold it and tuck it under the label. I put red running stitches on one side to give a clue as to the fact that something is hidden underneath. The note maybe found years from now, or maybe by a great grandchild or maybe never. I thought it was an interesing idea and wondered how many quilters have done that in the past, or even those who may do it today.

Gwen

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clipped on: 12.19.2006 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 12.19.2006 at 11:49 am

RE: NOT Rose companions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rjlinva on 10.16.2006 at 07:58 am in Antique Roses Forum

The rebar teepees have invaded my yard...I must have 30 of them now...a testimony to their success or potential success.

I take 3 of the 10ft rods (get the thicker of the two types availbe, and I drive (push with bare hands) them into the ground about 18" deep. I set the rods in a triangle with each side being about 24" (depending on the space available). Then, on the top, I secure the three pieces with an automotive hose clamp using a screwdriver. The operation takes about 4 minutes. I love them.

Robert


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clipped on: 10.16.2006 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 10.16.2006 at 11:32 am

RE: Roses and daylillys coexisting (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jeanne_texas on 10.15.2006 at 11:18 am in Roses Forum

Leslie..."Alfalfa Tea" is something we make up to feed our Roses, Daylilys, etc...You take a 5 Gallon Bucket and put in either 4 cups of Alfalfa Pellets or fill 1/3 full with Alfalfa Pellets ( I buy mine from the Feed Store in 50 lb. bags for about 10 bucks...it is used to feed cattle etc..you can just go in and ask for it and the salesperson will know what you mean) then fill the bucket with water...stir daily and in about 5-7 days it will start to stink..then add four cups of Epsom Salts..stir well ...then I put about 2 cups around each of my Roses and water in ... Alfalfa contains a growth hormone called Triacontanol which is a naturally occurring plant hormone that acts as a growth promoter. Triacontanol raises plant yield by improving photosynthesis and cell division..Your Roses will benefit by new basal breaks..it's awesome..It really is plants on steroids!!...Jeanne


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clipped on: 10.16.2006 at 11:21 am    last updated on: 10.16.2006 at 11:21 am

RE: Take 2: Does Rose de Rescht normally have brown pith? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mike_rivers on 03.04.2006 at 08:42 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I think you should prune it back to white pith. After 40 years of growing roses, that's maybe the only rose-growing rule I'm confident is true. It's the main distinction between people who succeed with roses in my area and those who don't. I'm so convinced of this that if someone were to actually show me a rose that does well when not pruned back to white pith, I would probably just take that as the exception that proves the rule. I've grown a half dozen or so Portlands, including Rose de Rescht, over the years. They all need pruned back to white pith in the spring.


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clipped on: 10.04.2006 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2006 at 10:01 pm

RE: planting under apple tree (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: razorback33 on 10.04.2006 at 01:48 am in Gardening in Shade Forum

Ripening and rotting apples produce ethylene gas, which can affect the growth and flowering (and livelihood) of many plants by inhibiting the closure of the stomata, thus allowing excessive water loss from the plant. Some plants have a gene that makes them immune to the effects of ethylene. Recent work in this field, to implant that mutant gene into various types of plants, has produced some popular long-lasting, flowering types for the floriculture industry. Bishop's Weed (Aegopodium) apparently is one species of plant that has the protective gene.
Rapid removal of dropped fruit and good air circulation might be helpful in reducing the effects of the gas.
That sweet, ether like odor from the rotting fruit is inflicting damage upon surrounding plants.
BTW, all internal combustion engines produce ethylene gas, in addition to carbon monoxide. Vegetables and plants shipped long distance by truck, have to be protected, by a neutralizing agent, from the detrimental effects of ethylene, as do greenhouse grown plants, when heat is provided by gas furnaces.
Cigarette smoke also is a source of ethylene, another good reason to give up the habit!
Some trivia that you might find useful, or not!
Rb


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clipped on: 10.04.2006 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 10.04.2006 at 10:38 am

excess mucus

posted by: tannkgirrl on 10.02.2006 at 09:42 pm in Herbalism Forum

my wife has beeb undergoing investigation by an allegist and respirologist for respiratory difficulty for the last 3 years. Her condition is progressivly getting worse. multiple test for allergies have proven negative, xray,CT scan of chest, throat shows no abnormalities, PFT normal, methacholine challange negative. Bloodwork normal except for slight anemia. She has been trialled on a wide selection of nsaids, steriods, alppha/beta agonists inhaled and ingested with no change in sensitivity.
She is a 45 yo fit with no ongoing medical problems except her difficulty with airway sensitivity.
Her symptoms include respiratory distress, severe headache, excess mucus production to the point where she chokes or as she describes it a drowning feeling which she has difficulty breathing through. she battles to cough and expells copious amounts of clear phlem.
Her triggers are diverse. Cold to warm changes, warm to cold changes scents such as pine, cedar, vinegar, perfume paint, solvents, dust, marker, smoke, sawdust, musk, exhaust fumes, insect reppelant, new plastics, petrochemicals. laughing to hard with bring on excess mucus production as will even moderate exertion.
desperatly looking for any suggestions

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clipped on: 10.03.2006 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 10.03.2006 at 11:48 am

RE: I'm very happy with Happy Child (Austin) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: patricia43 on 07.16.2006 at 03:43 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I have always loved it if for no other reason than the name, since I do not own it. I think it would be cute to have a small child statuary sitting nearby with the name of the rose engraved at its feet.


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I like this idea!
clipped on: 09.26.2006 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2006 at 12:43 pm

RE: wintersowing phlox (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tiffy_z5_6_can on 08.12.2006 at 09:12 pm in Canadian Winter Sowing Forum

Northerner,

Try feeding it Tomatoe food in early summer next year. I jolted a clematis which had never bloomed for me by feeding it Tomato food last year. Read about it somewhere and it worked. This plant had been there for four years with not a flower on it.

This year I fed the Clematis cornmeal, bonemeal, and seaweed and it's going nuts! There's another major flush of buds coming out.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


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clipped on: 09.12.2006 at 04:41 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2006 at 04:41 pm

RE: Mixing Annuals and Perennials (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: haziemoon on 07.10.2006 at 02:39 am in Potager Gardens Forum

I ended up putting all my perennials in one bed in my potager garden. I like to spade up my veggie area and add
compost etc.. before I plant, and was afraid I'd kill my
perennials, not knowing where they were!

I add a few annuals in with the veggies once they are coming up, for color and marigolds for pest control.

Haziemoon


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clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 11:02 am    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 11:02 am

RE: A love letter to Climbing Clotilde Soupert (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 09.04.2006 at 07:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I read once about an English gardener gently squeezing the ready to open buds of climbing Souv. Malmaison so they would open properly. I tried it and it works. Worth the extra time to get some perfect blooms when the weather's not on your side. I usually take time to pinch off the dominant bud in my polyanthas and floribundas so it doesn't seem like too much effort to help the roses open up. It's nice that you saved a rose that you loved by sending it to sanctuary with a friend.


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clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 09:06 pm

RE: When do YOU move your perennials around? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: laceyvail on 09.03.2006 at 11:22 am in Perennials Forum

I do as much as possible in the fall, but not after the end of September. The rule of thumb is to move spring blooming plants in fall, fall blooming ones in spring.


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clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 02:25 pm

RE: Please suggest plants for deck with pergola (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: blacky1 on 08.09.2006 at 12:56 am in Northern Gardening Forum

Hey prism99,

My choice is clematis but only to frame the entrance way over the pergola with each colour you like. One purplish and the other blue purplish or you could mix white with one these colours.
The other option which can been removed are fabric in the same colours you have chosen which are lightly weaved over the beams of the pergola.They can be cut to any width of fabric and sew together.Measure the length and add enough to flow over side after last loop over pergola. This gives you some shade, some light and flowers to view and without little creatures falling down.

They can be washed at the end of the season for next summer.

Lynne


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* I really like that fabric idea *
clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 01:43 pm

RE: Snow on the Mountain-Aegopodium (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: eric_oh on 08.09.2006 at 06:10 pm in Perennials Forum

If you do use Roundup, it might be advisable to wait a couple of weeks before planting to be sure Aegopodium doesn't rise from the dead and to give any Roundup (glyphosate) residue in the soil a chance to start breaking down.

Roundup has its detractors, but I think bleach would be an even worse option. Concentrated bleach can damage your skin and also is a non-specific toxic agent that might behave as a soil sterilant - not good for future plant growth.
If I had to bet on vinegar vs. Aegopodium, I'd put my money on Aegopodium.


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clipped on: 08.12.2006 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2006 at 10:08 pm

RE: old rose bush, needs to move long distance (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jbfoodie on 07.16.2006 at 11:54 pm in Rose Propagation Forum

I just moved a Madame Alfred Carriere that is 3 years old and 6 feet tall. I first dug a 4 foot diameter circle around the rose (2 foot radius). I recut the circle every few days all the while watering the root ball. I did this for 2 weeks. Then I halved the circle to form a 2 foot diameter root ball. I recut this for 2 weeks continuing to water the root ball. I moved it 2 days ago with no problem whatsoever. The root ball was contained and I did not even lose a bloom. I received this advice from Pete41. He said that this is the way the professionals move older plants. Good luck!

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Great idea for moving an already-established plant!
clipped on: 07.26.2006 at 10:54 am    last updated on: 07.26.2006 at 10:55 am