I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel. I chose Porcelanosa's Carrara Blanco for floor and walls. It has not been installed, yet, but I can tell you what little experience I have had, so far.
I purchased full size samples before deciding. They were shipped promptly and arrived well packed. The tile is substantial. When I ordered, Lilian, in the Boston showroom, was very helpful. Not so much the folks in the Greenwich, CT showroom.
Order was, again, shipped promptly and arrived undamaged. The one thing Lilian did tell me was that if I used Porcelanosa's thinset it would be guaranteed for life.
They should be ready to set the tile in the next week or two. If there is something specific you would like to know just ask and I will try to help.

It's far from finished, but it is fully operational..running water and the ability to get rid of same.

Because of the limited space below the vanity we chose this sink - somewhat of a cross between a vessel-style and a counter level basin. The extra inches above the top made for an easier fit underneath.

Here you get a good idea of the unique construction of this dresser that made for an easier installation. Notice the space where the p-trap is located...unused space behind the drawers. You can also see - right under the sink drain - a rail on either side for the smaller upper drawers. Another unused interior space, we routed supply lines here. Easy access for drain.

Another interior view. bottom of basin is visible between two upper drawers.

This scrollwork sits on a maple veneer 5" spacer between the two drawer fronts. Nice detail on the outside - you can see how convenient this is when you compare to location of drain fittings.

Still needs a bit of refinishing work, but the whole idea is it looks well loved! We couldn't believe how well it turned out.

Steve

Like you, we didn't want a modern look. Delta makes their Victorian faucet in 2 different styles--a traditional and an open top. We went for the open top as it looked more "rustic" & went with the antique pewter finish to give it that aged look. Very happy with our choice. I've attached a couple pics below.

Hope this helps & good luck!

Looking at the sink and the drain sitting in place in my dresser I was pondering over where "exactly" the P trap has to be located. Must it be directly connected to the drain (with appropriate adapters, of course)or is it possible to angle the drain flow via a 45degree elbow fitting to locate the p-trap further back in the dresser? All P-traps I've ever seen are immediately under the drain they serve, as inconvenient as that it to the use of the under counter space. I am just trying to figure out if there is a reason why I couldn't "nudge" the drain's flow with a couple 45 degree elbows and a very short piece of straight ABS. There will be no horizontal flow off the drain - even though that would make reworking the dresser drawers so much simpler and convenient.

Thanks

The original photos showed the veining a bit darker in color. What do you think?

Turn the switch ON, it will turn the light and fan on. Turn the switch OFF, the light will turn off but the fan will run for a set amount of time, you set the "DELAY" so the fan can run for up to 60 minutes after the switch is turned off.

If you don't want the fan to run for it's timed DELAY cycle, then cycle the switch ON then OFF and the light and fan will turn off.

It also has a "VENTILATION" function that you may or may not want to use. That function turns the fan on for a set amount of time per hour. You can set it to zero.

EFI also offers this switch, which is slightly different than the one above in that it doesn't have the VENTILATION function.

I prefer the first switch, though I almost always have the VENTILATION function set to zero.

EDIT to fix link

This post was edited by mongoct on Sat, Feb 16, 13 at 0:08

A rules of thumb to avoid cheap or mass produced upholstery: High quality upholsters always offer highly customizable pieces (since they are bench made and are not pre-fabricated). It's a good sign when there are 3-4 options for cushions and cushioned backs and many finish options. Remember to ask who makes pieces since companies change the names to re-brand. Restoration Hardware for example has a lot of import upholstery. Crate and Barrel is Lee or Michael Gold typically. Pottery Barn is Rowe. CR Laine beats all of these. Another designer brand that's fabulous is TCS but it's only sold through designers.

Another significantly less pricey option is Carolina Chair. I bought a sofa from them, 8 way hand tied, kiln-dried frame, etc. and the quality is excellent. No one who sees that sofa can believe what I paid for it. They are a pleasure to deal with, too. They have limited style options, but if you find one you like I highly recommend them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Toto Washlet Comparison

Fabrication/Pre-Install
-  Post pictures for the TKO’ed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

Installation
-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKO’ed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!

I bought different sizes of the lighting fixtures in order to have it under certain cabinets that are not placed at the same height. So anyways, all the undercabinet lighting is on a single dimmer switch. However, each individual fixture has a "high", "low" and "off" position. I can have some on "low", others on "high" and yet some of them "off". So I'm happy about that. This would satisfy your requirements, I believe. To boot, no separate transformer.

Also, the light does not appear yellow to me and my cabinets are white.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

NOTE: Absolutely DO NOT USE "Stand 'n' Seal". Hopefully all of it has been recalled, but in case you run across some, pass it up. It can cause very severe respiratory problems.

If you do this, do not buy it from your appliance dealer. Go to a metal fabricator shop, have it custom made. I went to one in the part of our city (Seattle) that services the Alaska fishing fleet. They did one for me about 42" x 38" for that price. It comes with a protective plastic film on the side you want exposed...do not remove this until after installation.

You also want to ask for the brushed #4 finish. That is the standard SS appliance finish.

Make sure it's about 1/8" smaller than the widest point...for us it was the Wolf 42" hood. This will give you a better transition from hood/stove to backsplash. You do not need any fancy mounting boards, unless you want a more 3D look.

I didn't want any screw or nail heads exposed, so we used one of the Liquid Nails high heat/metal products to glue it to the wall. We propped it into place with wood blocks, and taped it to the wall until it dried.

We then installed the hood and rangetop. I extended the backsplash about 2 inches behind each appliance.

For cleaning, use SS Magic. First you wash down the backsplash with a bit of Dawn and warm water to remove manufacturing oils. Then apply the SS Magic heavily, spraying it onto the soft cotton cloth, not the metal. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, then buff off, again with a soft cotton cloth, buffing in circles to spread the product evenly.

Cleanup is a breeze after this. The SS Magic leaves a protective coating...spray some SS Magic on the cloth again, then wipe the grease off. It comes off immediately with no streaking, no fuss, and no heavy buffing.

I do this once a week to clean the backsplash. We do very heavy sauteeing and wok cooking, so there is grease everywhere, but the backsplash still looks completely new.

We love the SS backsplash...the rest of the kitchen is heavy on unstained cherry cabinets and wood floor, so all that SS doesn't look cold and clinical. And it's well lit from the light of the hood.

The soapstone quarry called while I was hanging around to ask how I wanted the stone prepared for transit; it's almost ready! Wind me up and away I go...
Casey

Here is the one I got.

http://stores.buyplumbing.net/Items/Item.aspx?sck=7172006&SKU=FGN1100SN/SSTFLTR

When we first started our addition we naively thought we could have gold plated everything. I had pages and pages of magazine pics depicting that old world/tuscan style...I wanted it all, slavishly copied right off the pages. My architect thought of a few more.(A grotto like shower in the master)Then we had a few reality bombs lobbed our way. The grotto was unworkable and if it indeed were ever made workable it would need the Medici's fortune to build it. I can't even begin to give out the quote without laughing and twitching at the same time. Another misc. 8,000 job became 40,000, thingies needed doing to the old house infrastructure that I wasn't even aware existed so periously lo these 100 and some years. It looked like by the time we got to the kitchen I would be using plywood as counters and builder's grade everything else.

I distinctly remember the day I threw the pics in the trash and turned to the internet. Hey, if Thomas Jefferson could scour the world for his house why couldn't we? First came the Kitchen forum. Wow, a treasure trove. We then purchased our sink and Lady Grohe from Sinksdownunder.com, the copper tub Fergusen's had for 6,000 we got online for a little over 2,000, the stone and marble used throughout the addition came from Stonelocator.com, the bath fixtures from Hudson and Reed,the stone mosaic came from Lebanon, after buying a soso vanity, we bought two chests online and made our own. The glass mosaic backsplash came about because I was researching something for another poster and Maestromosaics offered me a great deal.(Lesson learned, call, ask, it can't hurt)

We rewired found old lights, made pendants from plug ins, chandeliers from lanterns. Counter stools and other things were bought on clearance sales.(A 600.00 mirror for 85.00 because it had a scratch) Hardware was purchased at a antique store for about 15.00.(Lots of elbow work needed however)

Cabinets were made locally, custom iron railings were as well.(We ended up paying about 4,000 for the railings as opposed to the 15,000 and up quotes we were getting and that included brass handles and details)

In the end we had a kitchen/addition that is 100% us. There are no pages and pages of glossy magazines out there that look like what we have. And because we had to watch over every little step, and often times do things ourselves, we ended up connected to the house on a much deeper level. I understand why carpenters leave their names tucked somewhere in a project, when a project is done right it's such a burst of creativity. It's a part of you, it truly becomes your own. And that's waaaay better than ripping out pics and handing them to your GC.

Dunis Studios (They say the have them)
Walker Zanger
Ann Sacks
Ken Mason
Jeffrey Court
Meredith Art Tiles
Sonoma Tilemakers

In the basement, the low voltage wires are connected in parallel to a single transformer plugged into a line outlet (which is controlled by a switch in the kitchen).

Grazia's Essenze line may be more similar to Grammercy Park. I think the square essenze tile was around $7/sq ft.

Grazia makes a beadboard tile too - I think it's called Boiserie, or something like that. Don't know if it's crackle, though.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grazia Boiserie

Feel free to email me for her email - I hesitate to just post it broadly. And for those of you who asked for some photos, I took these tonight (we just moved in)

Here is a link that might be useful: Kayenta Kitchen

I had a similar issue with my electrician who had never heard of the lv xenons.

The lighting expo focused on them and on the leds but was geared for commercial installations (though that never bothered any forum folk I met!)

Here's a link to the led company with the lowest profile fixtures. Mind, these bulbs never need changing so these fixtures are expensive upfront. See if they're dimmable and if they might suit.

I can post a link to the photos of the expo with all the info on Thursday.

Re the Luche -- I leave mine on all the time and have never changed a bulb yet (2 years). I'd call Task and talk to them. They have pretty good customer service.

Once my electrician saw the Luche strip he installed it very easily. The transformer went into a deadspace between two cabinets.

Here is a link that might be useful: Io Led Lighting

I've included a few "before" photos. We removed a major wall to open up the kitchen to the living room. It actually worked! People sat in the old living room area on Christmas Eve for the very first time I think in 33 years!

I've avoided photographing the fireplace area, it's pretty ugly at this point.

Flyleft, thanks, we're in So Cal.

Let's see if it works!

Here is a link that might be useful: My Almost Finished Kitchen

I just can't wait to have them installed. Demolition starts next week so hopefully it won't be too much longer.

I think wood floors can work fine with French Country or Tuscan. For Mediterranean, tiles are more the norm. French Country often has painted cabinets - and often in multiple hues. There are several pretty palettes to choose from in French Country design depending on the level of formality and region you are trying to attain. I've seen some stunning Blue/Yellow Provencal kitchens.

Tuscan is the more rustic of the three and often has stained, distressed furniture pieces as opposed to cabinets. Sometimes painted (or two finishes) and often dark. Countertops, backsplashes and flooring should use natural materials (or look alikes!)- slate, tumbled stone, etc. Use muted metals for lighting & plumbing fixtures, cabinet hardware, accessories - coppers, rusts & bronzes are nice. Wall finishes are important and should look old - faux finishes work great here. Colors tend toward very earthy warm tones - terracotta, butternut yellows, golds, greens and reds. For accessories, use Majolica Pottery, tall glass jars of pasta, oils, vinegars & decorative bottles of spices, fruit. Simplicity rules in Tuscan design.

Marie

Here is a link that might be useful: Numerar sink

Bottom line...ask lots of questions, look in lots of magazines and books and trust other folks on websites like this who seem to have experience and have used the products. Sales people are often not cooks - ask them.

I would suggest that you double check EVERYTHING you buy with your contractor to make sure there is not going to be some issue with installing it. I don't think I got enough guidance, and this is my first time doing renovations so I had no idea what I was doing. I find that these people expect you to read their minds and speak their languang - very frustrating!

BE NIT-PICKY!!!! Insist on knowing EXACTLY what is and uis not included!

I think it would be nice to have deeper shelves below a long counter and shallow shelving above. Below can go soda cases, paper towels, extra plates and serving pieces. Appliances could go on counter, plugged in even and ready to go. Cans, boxes, cereals, etc all on the upper shallow shelves. As shallow as 6 to 8 inches is plenty deep, some set close together, e.g. just one can height. I'd consider using the blank wall just for hanging table linens on long bars. And I'd consider partitioning off the farthest 2 feet to make an enclosed utility for brooms and cleaning supplies - just to keep that all that stuff separate from the food and table stuff. OK, broom on back of the door if you need it handy.

The worst is to have too deep shelves ceiling to floor, set too far apart. (Guess who has 18 inch deep shelves floor to ceiling set 16 inches apart? LOL)

Units Tested: the latest models of the following -

27" Oven - rotisserie, pizza stone, finishing seard meat
Convection/Steam combi oven - short ribs, reheat pasta, bread, cookies
Induction - boil water, simmer, stir fry
Teppan Yaki - boil water, simmer, searing lamb rack, chicken breasts, salmon
Gas cooktop - simmer

Short form:
1. Gagg gas burners need a better simmer design
2. The steam/convection oven is larger than you think and is, IMHO, worth the price and is a good choice for a second oven (could be a first for some)
3. Induction - it's the bomb, but IMHO Gagg needs to get their pricing more in line. Their unit DOES offer some advantages: full adjustment from simmer to sear, takes up to 11" pans w/auto adjust, has residual heat indicator, looks great. Cooking permformance was excellent.
4. Ovens - as good as the comments on the forum have indicated. Really like the rotisserie and the pizza stone with embedded element.
5. Teppan yaki plate - versatile option, good looking, a bit spendy but on the buy list.

Some final comments/caveats listed at the end of the post.

Simple things first:
1. Gas cooktop - considered a Vario 400 series as an option for one of the modules. No longer a consideration. The simmer setting uses just a small, "finger sized" center burner. I had a thick tomato sauce in a Staub cast-iron pot and at the lowest setting the heat pattern produced a small boil in the center of the pot. The heat was too concentrated. Too bad since the general performance of the unit was good and the SS is high quality.

2. Convection oven:
Rotisserie - did a small marinated pork roast. Figuring out the icons on the control took some doing the first time out, but I didn't read the manuals for anything and once I was told which icon was correct all was okay. Selected the convection broil setting and turned on the rotisserie. With so much cooking going on I was more than a bit sloppy about watching everything. When I remembered the roast I figured it was overdone. Then I was taught a new use for the temp probe in the oven (obviously you can't use it on a spinning piece of meat). At the suggestion of the rep, I plugged in the probe, pushed it into the roast and pushed the probe button - in about 10 sec it showed the temp - Handy! It also showed I had overcooked the roast (it was at 167 before resting). The good news - rotisserie cooking produces good results even when the cook isn't paying attention. After sitting for about 10 minutes the roast was still juicy with a nice carmelized exterior. Interestingly, clean up was simple since the unit has an oven pan underneath and the heavy enamel made clean up easy. Home-made could be as convenient as Costco for chicken...

Pizza stone with integrated heating element: I had to use frozen Rhodes bread since I didn't have time the night before to make my own dough. I had very low expectations given the dough and the amount of time I had to work it. I made a simple pizza margahrita with a not-too-thin crust and preheated the stone for about 10 minutes at 450 (probably should have listened to the repa and set it for 400 or 410). I used my wooden pizza peel with some yellow cornmeal on the peel to slide the dough off easier. Much to my surprise the pizza came out wonderful. The crust was baked through, the bottom was a chewy-crisp yellow-gold and the cheese was melted and just browning. The rep acutally removed the pizza - I would have left it in another minute or two. But the results were impressive. I usually use a consumer-style pizza stone in a very hot oven with good results, but having the heating element embedded in the stone clearly produces better results. I'm sold on this option even if it is expensive. If you make a lot of pizza or bread (see comments on combi oven) this option is worth it.

Finishing Seared Meat - no surprise here, the oven lived up to its reputation for consistent heat.

Induction - single unit, pots up to 11", settings 1-12
For anyone still on the fence regarding induction, jump. I brought a huge pot of water to boil for pasta in less than 10 minutes (sorry, didn't measure the amount of water, but it's a commercial-sized pot with a pasta insert). Not only was it fast, but the rolling boil clearly came from the entire bottom of the pan, not just a part of it (I've seen this phenomenon on some gas cooktops where the flames don't heat the bottom evenly - flame pattern, drafts/airflow, etc.). When I turned the power down to avoid boil-over the change was instant. I put the Staub pot with tomato sauce on the unit now turned down to 2 and then varied it and the sauce "just sat there" at temperatures varying from 130 to 160 depending on the setting (I had waited to let some/most of the residual heat in the glass dissipate). Amazing simmer control. Later I stir-fired some veggies in a Costo-purchased Nordic-ware flat-bottomed wok. I turned the unit up to 12, turned away to get my oil and the prepped veggies, then checked the surface temp with my infrared thermometer (yes, I'm a kitchen gadget geek). The induction unit was already cycling on an off since in less than two minutes the surface temp of the pan was over 500 degrees. The veggies cooked up with no trace of the liquid extraction/steaming that can happen when there is not enough reserve heat to keep the temp up. In fact, I had to turn the temp down a notch. I even tempted fate by pouring in a few ounces of wine (I was testing the gear, not cooking for taste) and the wine boiled off in about 15-20 seconds. Amazing. The unit is somewhat unique when considering the output range (keep warm - simmer - blazing heat).

Teppan Yaki
For those of you who haven't seen this in person or on the web site, this unit shares characteristics of both a griddle and a "plancha" (?) that's on some of the high-end french ranges (not to be confused with a french top). Unlike most griddles, this unit is a very thick slab of hard-chrome-plated stainless steel - the chrome plating makes quite a difference. It can be cut on with virtually no damage - I chopped up some shrimp "Benny Hana" style to prove it. The rim is sealed so liquid cannot drain through around the edges making clean up very easy. After all my cooking we left the temp at about 300 and took a lemon juice-water mixture and "deglazed" the top. We then scraped the bits with one of the included spatulas and used kitchen tongs with a costco bar towel to wipe up the remaining liquid. Overall it took about 5 minutes and the unit looked good as new. This unit has a large thermal mass and provides a very steady heat. I did all the cooking with both elements turned on and set to 300 degrees. There are two control knobs, one for "front/rear/both" and one for temp. The temp control only controls the "active" element, or both - you can't set different temperature for front and rear. I flattened two chicken breasts to about 1/2 inch, seasoned with salt, pepper, olive oil and little italian seasoning, then cooked/seared each side for about 2 minutes, drizzling some fresh lemon on the meat while cooking the second side. Both sides were done with a nice uniform golden brown carmelization and they were not overcooked. It was all too easy. Same with the salmon filet (about 1 lb, thick end). I couldn't find any salmon steaks, and I probably should have used the combi oven to steam the filet, but I thought I'd try the teppan yaki. I had seasoned the salmon with salt, pepper, and dill, then rubbed wit olive oil. I cooked the skin side first. Using a metal spatula, the skin came up easy and I flipped the salmon to complete the cooking. Again, no surprises since the plate has a large thermal mass and two x 1500 watt elements. I'm not a big fan of griddles, but this unit has the mass, surface area, and heating reserve (3Kw total) so it can be used in a variety of ways - searing plate, griddle, or french top. This will stay on the "buy" list. Great temperature control, consistent heat output, and it looks great after repeated use.

Steam-Convection combi oven
Having read a number of recent posts I was really intersted in this unit. My first dish was pork baby back ribs I had marinated overnight in beer, garlic, salt and pepper. I cooked them 75 minutes, 310 degrees, 100% humidity. After resting for about 5 minutes I went to cut the ribs and the bones just pulled out. Tender, moist, flavorful. I then baked some cookies (Rocky Mountain pre-made dough; peanut butter chocolate chip), 350 degrees, 30% humidity, can't remember how long - but I took them out when the tops were golden brown and crusty and it was under 10 minutes. The centers stayed moist and chewy even the next day. Very quick, very nice combo of crispy/chewy. Took some leftover Rhodes bread dough, pinched it into three "rolls" and baked at 350, 0% humidity. After 10 minutes, then every 5 minutes or so, "injected" steam using a button that shoots some cold water into the bottom of the oven. This "steam injection" created a tasty chewey thick crust on three lumps of what had been "cheap" frozen bread dough. Finally - left the penne pasta I had boiled on the induction unit sitting in the colander for about 2 hours and thought I'd challenge the steam oven. I spread out the now partially dried, stuck-together lump of pasta on a 1/2 sheet pan (they fit) and put the whole thing in the combi-oven for 5 minutes at 220 degrees and 100% humidity. The pasta came back to life in it's al dente form. Once again, amazing. I also like the fact that you can use standard 1/2 sheet pans by sliding them in on the TOP of the ovens rack glides. Same goes for other standard sized commercial pans (check to make sure) - you can save some $$$ and have a lot of pans. Plumbing and drain add to convenience (and, of course, total installed cost).

Caveats/comments:
1. Obviously Gagg equipment is not for the financially faint of heart.
2. Make sure you have 240v to the teppan yaki. We had 208v at the showroom and it showed in heat-up time and temps. As a result, I didn't "test" the fact that this unit has two elements (front/rear) with some "combo" useage. This is a device that needs 10-15+ minutes to preheat. No surprise given the thermal mass.
3. The induction unit prooves that this type of "engine" is an incredible tool. I'd love to have one of the gagg units and I'd also like to have a 2-"burner" unit as well. But Gagg (like Kupersbusch) has to be more competitive on price and gagg needs to offer other configs. I'm sure others like me will pay some level of premium for aesthetics, but when you can purchase both a 24" and a 12" Diva unit (neither one a price leader) for the same list price as the gagg induction unit - well, you get the idea. Great features, great performance, on the spendy side IMHO.
4. Steam/convection oven. Larger than it seems - actully much larger, but costly. Needs a drain and a water hookup. Lightning fast preheat. Takes a half-sheet pan so it's deeper than it appears (its easy to assume microwave depth because of the narrow front).
5. 27" Ovens - took in a 17" square piece of pizza cardboard from Costco tae-n-bake. It fit in the oven of a free-standing Bosch range, it fit in the non-convection Thermador oven. However, it needed to be folded back about 2" for the Thermador convection oven and about 3" for the Gagg. In otherwords, you give up oven depth for convection capability. Not a revelation, but a reminder to those like myself who thought he couldn't live without a 30" oven and a reminder to test oven size based on your cookware/bakeware (i.e., if you don't buy take-n-bake pizza from costco does it matter if the rack is 17, 16, 0r 15 inches deep?).

Overall a productive day for me. Once again, my thanks to the local distibutor. We'll purchase the combi oven, the Gagg electric grill (didn't test, not on display), and the teppan yaki plate. Jury is out on gagg induction because of a) cost and b) only a single "burner" but would buy if performance was main (only?) criteria with aesthetics second. Will probably purchase the oven(s) as well although may go Meile if we can sort out whether or not their baking stone has an integrated element (same for Wolf, but very a distant third).

Hope this helps some of you. Email me directly if you have questions/comments that aren't geared to posting or if you'd rather call with questions.

gordon