Clippings by cs6000

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RE: Geothermal $6K per ton? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cs6000 on 03.18.2009 at 11:07 pm in Renewable Energy Forum

I made it clear why I was asking the question, and it was not to start a feud.
Here are a few facts.
The Waterfurnace Territory Manager told me the estimates I received were too high.
The Climatemaster estimate I received was $4500 higher than the sample estimate the same installer was using for a slightly larger home in 2008.
I'm just curious why this is happening now.
And here's a quote from James Bose, executive director of IGSHPA. (from a 2007 Forbes article)

"I know they're being overpriced because everybody thinks they're magic, and they're selling it as magic," says James Bose, a professor at Oklahoma State University and executive director of the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association.

It would be naive not to admit the possibility of installers inflating prices to cash in on the new tax credits that will lure people toward geothermal now, who would have never considered it before. Congress gave this credit to the homeowner, not the contractor.


clipped on: 03.18.2009 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2009 at 11:16 pm

RE: paint brand for fypon (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: worthy on 11.14.2008 at 10:15 pm in Building a Home Forum

From the FYPON website's FAQ: (It's a polyurethane product.)

"Do the products come primed and ready for final finishing?
Yes. Fypon products come double-primed with an exterior grade coating. The product should be painted with a high quality latex paint. Urethane pieces can be painted any color the homeowner desires, and can also be faux painted and marbleized for more decorative looks.

Since PVC is a thermoplastic polymer, it must be painted with a paint that has a Light Reflectance Value (LRV) of 54% or higher. There are many special formulated paint systems that will allow dark paint colors to be applied to PVC with low heat absorption. Contact or your local Sherwin Williams store for more information."


clipped on: 02.12.2009 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2009 at 03:53 pm

RE: Staining and Finishing Knotty Alder front door (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mark__m on 07.03.2006 at 01:38 am in Woodworking Forum

Here is a link that shows Alder stained. Chris is correct, Alder is notorius for blotching. I have found that Old Masters Wipe on Stain prevents blotching in Alder, but I do not know if it is UV rated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Alder Stained


clipped on: 02.11.2009 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2009 at 05:19 pm

RE: Staining and Finishing Knotty Alder front door (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: crowsridge on 07.01.2006 at 12:39 pm in Woodworking Forum


Alder is notorious for blotching. If you want to stain, you would do well to start with a wood conditioner or sanding sealer. This will give you an even finish overall. then finish as listed above.



clipped on: 02.11.2009 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2009 at 05:18 pm

RE: For Those Of You With Stained Concrete Floors (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: archie123 on 01.27.2009 at 07:15 pm in Building a Home Forum

Image and video hosting by TinyPic
We love our concrete floor! We have several dogs and this
is a great floor for them - I love no grout!
They had to use blue chalk vs orange to snap because the orange resists the stain, They scored right after the pour, and then covered it up with plastic and paper and then stained at the end.
It is a black stain that looks taupe in some places. I think the scoring makes a hugh difference - looks like big stones 3' x 3' in some places - and no grout!. the cost was $3.25 for stain and scoring, covering was extra.


clipped on: 01.28.2009 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2009 at 08:21 pm

RE: Our Almost Finished $64 PSF House w/ Pics!!! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: persnicketydesign on 01.01.2009 at 10:53 am in Building a Home Forum

Here's a breakdown of some of the things.

Drywall...$12,900 materials, labor & hauling of trash.

Framing labor...$25,000 for the best framers in the world!!!

Lumber package....$42,000 included all lumber, interior & exterior doors (except front door), glues, screw, nails, etc. Basically everything we needed from the lumber yard throughout the construction.

Windows...$5892 for Simonton low-e w/argon (installed by framers)

Shingles and ridge...$4219

Roofing labor...$5033 included flashing and other supplies

Nichiha Siding & Miratec...$12,920

Plumbing...$10,075 We went with pex. The price included 5 Cadet 3 toilets, 3 shower/tub units, 2 pedestal sinks, the water heater & recirc pump.

Plumbing supplies....$1817 these are the faucets & things we bought online.




Cabinetry & countertops (not including granite)...$16,377

Will work for roses...I did keep other spreadsheets for other items that we purchased. :o) I just figured up how much housewrap we'd need by checking the specs from the manufacturers to see how much area each roll would cover. Our framer did a lumber materials list for us and we sent it out to the lumber yards for bids. That was done while we were having the trees cleared from the lot. He had already given us a ballpark was pretty darn close!


clipped on: 01.01.2009 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2009 at 05:10 pm

RE: Size of Geothermal Unit (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fsq4cw on 06.08.2005 at 02:14 am in Renewable Energy Forum

Hi Jessica,

The contractor who is sizing the system based on your cooling needs got it right. Heres why. A system sized for 100% of your heating capacity will be over sized for your cooling needs. That means, that in the cooling mode, your unit will be cycling on and off many more times than a system sized to meet 80% of your heating demand. This results in premature wear of the compressor due to unnecessary cycling, but even more importantly, the larger unit will cool your home to the set point before it has lowered the humidity sufficiently. Its the lowering of the humidity that can have an even greater effect on comfort level than a lower temperature.
A unit sized to 80% of the heating capacity is properly sized. The other 20% will come from cooking, lighting, appliances, people, etc; you get the picture. A force air heat pump should also be backed up by about 15 kilowatts of resistance heating elements mounted in the plenum. This serves two functions. First, should you experience severe heat loss in your home due to cold temperatures and high winds, your heat pump is backed up by an additional 50,000 BTUs, more than enough to meet your worst case demands. In our home this only happens when the temperature has dropped to 13 degrees below zero Fahrenheit or below, for more than 24 hours solid - with high winds! The second reason for the back-up plenum heater is so that you have a Plan B should your compressor fail on a long, holiday weekend.
The smaller system will also be substantially less expensive, considering the major cost of any geothermal installation is drilling.
After extensive research of this subject, and after owning a geothermal heat pump through two heating seasons in Montreal Canada, one of the coldest cities in North America, I strongly urge you to research and install ONLY a DX geothermal type heat pump as these are the least expensive to install, operate, and maintain. They are the most reliable as they have fewer parts, pumps, and motors. Their boreholes are half the diameter and 40% shallower than any vertical liquid system.
Our heat pumps computer is capable of monitoring the efficiency of the heat transfer in the boreholes. Should efficiency drops due to dry weather, this is detected and corrected by a soaker pipe installed deep into the borehole. The computer opens a solenoid valve sending in water to flood the boreholes thus re-hydrating the ground back to optimal efficiency. I mention this because others have mentioned that soil conditions may affect efficiency. A properly designed system will even mitigate ground conditions in all but perhaps the worst sandy, desert conditions.
Please continue to do your own research. Who you get to install your system is at least as important as what you buy and install. Its a complex installation. Done right its magic!

This link may provide more useful information:


Here is a link that might be useful:


clipped on: 12.22.2008 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 12.22.2008 at 04:06 pm

RE: Geothermal Sizing Question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: funnycide on 10.24.2008 at 02:48 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

I would ask the contractor 2 questions. What outdoor design temperatures he used for the summer and winter. Also what indoor temperatures he used for the summer and winter. If you agree with his numbers and 3.6 tons then I would go with 4 tons. The extra ton will probably cost you about $3k with the extra ground loop and equipment. For the bonus room I don't think you will be able to find a unit under 1 ton.
The bigger question is will you be happy with only 1 unit for your house. You didn't mention the sq ft but it must be fairly large. I would consider a 1st floor & 2nd floor unit or something similar.


clipped on: 12.22.2008 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 12.22.2008 at 09:59 am

My Cabinet Touchup Process for Minor Nicks and Flaws

posted by: lmalm53 on 11.19.2008 at 04:34 am in Kitchens Forum

I was asked by nomorebluekitchen to write up something about my process for touching up my old cabinets and to include some before and after pictures. Let me preface this by saying emphatically that I am NOT a refinisher and really have just been using trial and error to find something that works on minor nicks and water damage on the cabinet finish. In fact I would still like to know if there isn't some kind of final finish or wax that I should be applying to help keep my touchups protected from future moisture. But at least the touchups I did almost 6 months ago still look like new.

Please be aware that I have used this process only on natural solid wood cabinets that have been stained, not painted. This may not work on laminate surfaces or composite woods. If anyone out there has more experience with this type of repair, please add your input also. This is the process I used.

First off, my 19 year old dark cherry cabinets were in need of a good cleaning. I have read some negative posts about using any kind of oil soap on cabinets, but I have had no problems using Murphy's Oil soap for cleaning up greasy spots. I just dilute a small amount of the soap in a pail of warm water and using a soft microfiber cloth I clean up the cabinets. If I have any tough dried on gunk, I gently clean it off using a piece of 0000 fine steel wool.

After drying with a soft cloth I then like to put a little Orange Glo furniture cleaner and polish on a clean white cloth and further clean and polish up the wood finish. At this point I carefully inspect for signs of wear, worn finish or nicks in the wood. You will be surprised how much you thought was damage turns out to have just been dirt or specks that easily clean off. Be sure to open up all the drawers and cabinet doors where there is often damage to the finish just inside the doors. I use my Minwax Stain Marker pen which matches my cabinet color perfectly. (I use 225 red mahogany)

Using the stain pen I just start filling in the damaged spots. Sort of like filling in the lines in a coloring book. :) I apply the stain generously, wipe up any excess with a paper towel and then let it sit for awhile. You could probably let it sit for a few hours or overnight, but I get impatient and tend to move from one cabinet to another with the cleanup and touchup process then work back to the first cabinet again to check the stain and see if I need to apply a little more.

Once I am satisfied that I have done my best touching up any damage, I then like to get another clean soft microfiber cloth to buff up the cabinet faces. Some of the stain will come off on your cloth, but in most cases the areas of damaged finish will have absorbed enough stain to improve the cosmetic look greatly. If you need to reapply some stain in especially large damaged areas, I would let the stain sit longer before you buff it out.

Now this is where I am probably missing a step, because it seems logically there should be some kind of finish coat or preservative put on the cabinets to keep them protected. But I have not added anything yet after buffing out the stain. Since most of my cabinet finish was in good shape I couldn't see the need to apply any all over sealer, but I guess a real refinisher would use something to seal the damaged areas. I am hoping my stain doesn't all come off the next time I deep clean the cabinets!

So...buyer beware!... but I was asked to explain how I do it so this is it. Here are some pics if it helps to see the types of damage that can be greatly improved without going to a lot of expense and trouble.

Here are the touchup supplies I use:



And here are some before and after pictures:

Small Cabinet Drawer Face Before Touchup

After Touchup

Cabinet Center Panel Before Touchup

After Touchup of Center Panel only

Whole Cabinet after Hardware Removed and Before Touchup

After Touchup and New Hardware installed

I will say that there are some types of damage that this process cannot repair. I have yet to figure out what I will do with my laundry room cabinet that has had so much water damage that the finish has turned a milky white in places. I suspect in that case I may need to strip the old finish down to the raw wood, restain and reseal completely. That will be a project I will tackle after I have done some more research!

But for now here is my updated kitchen. I saved a lot by keeping the 19 year old cabinets and by touching them up myself, instead of having them professionally refaced or refinished. Only time will tell how long my process holds up, but at this point I feel it was worth it! Most of my guests think the cabinets are brand new.

Hope this is helpful to someone. I am sure there are others who can improve on my methods, so please add your comments.


clipped on: 12.13.2008 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2008 at 02:28 pm

RE: Brands/Products That I'd Use Again (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: suziesnowflake on 09.20.2007 at 08:52 am in Building a Home Forum

I agree Jason - quality underneath the finish items is even more important! Here are some of my favorites:

Flashing - and kind! Fortifiber's Moistop, Tyvek's FlexWrap, they're all good, especially when installed correctly!

ASTM rated building paper (asphalt impregnanted felt) used to create the drainage plane on the exterior walls

Benjamin Obdyke Home Slicker - important to provide ventilation behind the siding

Bora-Care - spray on framing to prevent mold and rot

Therma-Stor Ultra Aire whole house ventilating dehumidifier - fantastic invention!


clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 05:14 pm

RE: Brands/Products That I'd Use Again (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: jasonmi7 on 09.20.2007 at 08:08 am in Building a Home Forum

I notice everyone seems to be focusing on finish items.

For windows: Nothing but Pella or Andersen.
For doors: Andersen or Thermatru
Panel products: Advancetech OSB
Plumbing systems: Vanguard PEX
Nails: Maze. Nothing but Maze galvanized for ACQ/PT construction. Coil roofing from Maze or Paslode. All exterior bolts/fasteners from Timberlok. Drywall screws from Grabber; all other screws, without exception from McFeely's. Finishing supplies from Klingspor.

Siding: Certainteed fibercement or Hardie (supply issue only).

Wall systems: at this point, and given upcoming energy costs, SIPs or tilt-up concrete energy-panels.


clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 05:03 pm

RE: roof decking material? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jasonmi7 on 05.01.2008 at 06:39 pm in Building a Home Forum

Worthy; total bunk. Yes, two decades ago, OSB had some issues, but the product has continuously improved, as plywood panels have continuously degraded. The APA, in that two decade span, has continually demanded better glues, less swelling, and more rigid engineering tests, while becoming more and more lenient on plywood panels; larger voids are allowed, as well as 'filler' plys of cheaper wood.

Sorry; but I'll voice my opinion again; in similarily priced panels, I'd generally take OSB; and, given the choice, I'd take Advancetech OSB over any type of plywood I can think of. Remember; not all plywood is the same, and neither is all OSB. To make blanket statements that OSB or plywood are better or worse does a disservice to finding the right product for the right application.


clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 04:11 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 04:12 pm

RE: drywall and siding installation (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bevangel on 09.12.2008 at 07:36 pm in Building a Home Forum

Sturdy, I'm confused by your question.

To me the term "drywall" means the sheet-rock (basically gypsum sandwiched between layers of paper) that forms the interior walls. "Siding" means an exterior wall surface like Hardieboard or vinyl siding or whatever. In between these two layers is the house framing (studs) with the cavities between the studs filled with insulation. Are we talking about the same thing????

Unless you're using at least one of those two terms to mean something totally different than they mean to me, what possible logic could your husband have for wanting to install the drywall first? If he puts the drywall up first, what happens if it rains before he gets the siding on? The drywall becomes WETwall and, if he has put any insulation in the wall cavities, it gets soaked as well.

The proper order is: framing first, followed by sheathing (that is usually plywood or OSB), followed by housewrap (if you're using one), followed by siding. Then, once you get the roof on and doors and windows in, the house is "dried in". You don't want to put drywall in until you know it won't get wet. Plumbing and electrical lines and HV/AC ducts should also go in before the drywall because they usually run thru the wall. Only after all that is done are you ready for drywall.

Doing it the other way around doesn't make any sense to me but, like I said, maybe I'm not understanding your question.


clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 04:01 pm

RE: Dangers of Hardie/Cement Exterior (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: cpate on 08.01.2008 at 07:08 pm in Building a Home Forum

This is not exactly on-topic but close enough that I think you all will be interested.

I recently learned that one of the big things causing mold is improperly installed house-wrap. It isn't rocket science to put up Tyvek or other air/moisture barriers properly but apparently a lot of builders don't pay any attention to the house-wrap specs. They just slap the stuff up and put siding over it and the owner is no wiser... until they start having mold problems.

Dupont - who makes Tyvek - has gone to the effort of making "housewrap specialists" available in all areas who will come out to your build-site for free and advise on exactly HOW to properly install Tyvek.

I know this because when my builder's sub put the Tyvek wrap up, it didn't look right to me - way too many staples and those that were used looked too small, lots of patched together pieces, lower sections over the top of upper sections so that water would be funneled between the layers of Tyvek, vertical seams with no taping, etc. etc. etc. So I went to the Dupont website and pulled up the specs for Tyvek house-wrap and read them.

Needless to say, this precipitated a major fight between me and my builder who insisted that his sub had put Tyvek on "hundreds of homes" and that "he knows what he is doing" and "there is more than one right way to put it up" and "I'm the builder, you should trust me to know what I'm doing" etc.

In desperation, I contacted Dupont and they gave me the phone number of their house-wrap specialist in my area. I called him at 4:30 PM and he told me he would meet me at my house at 8:30 the next morning. He arrived and took one look, and immediately told my builder "this will NOT do, your installation voids our warranties and if you slap hardiplank over this mess, it'll be a wonder if the homeowner doesn't have mold problems inside of three years." Since my contract requires my builder to follow the specs of manufactured products so as to not void any manufacturer's warranty, that gave me the clout I needed to get my builder to make his sub do it right!

The Dupont house-wrap specialist stayed at my site about 3 hours that morning advising the subcontractor and his workers on exactly what needed to be done to fix the job. He then made 2 more trips to out to inspect and finally sign off on the Tyvek installation.

Since he had to travel nearly 40 miles (one way) to reach my house, I figure he put in close to a full day assisting with my build. And it cost me nothing so I know there is no way Dupont could have made any profit whatsoever on the house-wrap that went into my house.

On his third trip, I asked him WHY Dupont would bother. His response was that it wasn't just my house that was affected but potentially every house that my builder and that sub and even any of his crew worked on in the future and that Dupont saw educating these people as the only way they could protect the integrity of their product.

I have to say, I was impressed and wanted to share the information. I'm now reading the installation specs on every product that goes into my house and watching to see that they are followed and, if they're not, I'm going to be calling the manufacturer pronto.


clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 03:58 pm

RE: Geothermal loops/trenches questions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sniffdog on 11.30.2008 at 02:37 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum


Most of the info you need is here on this site. between the hvac and renewbale energy forums you can find out most of what you need. I am just a homeowner who wanted geothermal HVAC - but I wish I had studied up before I put my order in. I think my HVAC guys did an OK job - the system seems to be running fine and the electric bills are reasonable. But I should have asked them for the data before OKing the system. And once I install my monitoring system, then I will have the data I need.

I have a feeling that my system was oversized. Not by a lot - but I think I have more HVAC capacity than I need. They have to show you the required BTU's per hour during the summer and winter. Your system should be sized for the summer load because the heat can always be augmented a little (if you need a boost in oddly cold days) with the second stage heat. My house is very well insulated and sealed. I think that when the did the manual J (if they did it), the were too pesimistic on the insulation and window package assumed and then they added some fat just to make sure they had enough BTU/hr capacity.

Once you know the thermal load of the house, then they can design the GT system accordingly. All you have to do is ask a lot of questions and use the GW to get multiple second opinions.

The lack of performance monitoring really bothers me a lot. My system has nothing to tell me what the heck it is doing. Now that I understand how GT really works - reviewing simple thermal equations - i realize that with a little extra work it could have been added. Some GT heat pump manufacturers are catching a clue and adding performnace monitoring features to the heat pumps, but I still think it is far behind where it needs to be.

I just wanted to pass along my experience so you could avoid getting to the place where I am. Ask your HVAC people how you will know that what was installed is working as specified? And not just on the 1 day you show you - but any day you want to look and see. It should be unacceptable to wait until the end of the month when you get your electric bill to see that all is OK.

I would also ask them for what the expected annual heating & cooling bill should be with GT based on Heating & Cooling degree Days for your location. They should be able to determine the BTU/hr load for the house and give you an estimate. Otherwise when you get your bill - how do you know it is as low as it should be? You will have to calculate the other electric usage (lights, TV, etc) and add that to give you the expected bill, but you need something as a basline for comparison.

Good luck.


clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 04:47 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 04:47 pm

RE: Geothermal loops/trenches questions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sniffdog on 11.29.2008 at 11:50 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum


The loop field approach should take the soil type and geographic location into consideration. Then you have to factor in space requirements and any set backs - but it sounds like room is not any issue for you. It isn't a good idea to generalize one loop system over another.
There are many ways to make a horizontal loop field and if you have enough room and the right soil, they might not have to dig a large pit - just make trenches big enough for the loop pipes. There are many trades on the type of loop - slinky coils vs straight pipes vs spacing and depth - all of which effect the length, depth and number of trenches needed. Your GT designer should have software that allows them to model exactly what you need and explain it thoroughly. If not - find a designer who can.

I have a horizontal loop field (large pit) and it cost roughly $1700 per ton of HVAC cooling. The reason it cost so much was a) rocks and b) space. I had just enough room for the loop field BUT when they excavated it, they had to move all the dirt from point A to point B and then back again, and when they back filled they pulled out medium and large rocks. My pit is 120' x 50' x 6' - and that is a lot of dirt. If you went with a pit, yours should not be this large - maybe 1/3rd to 1/2 the size depending on house design. I also had them put in a 1 foot bed of stone dust at the bottom to surround and protect the loops. If I had room for the pit plus room to put the dirt around it, then it would have cost less (fewer machine hours to move dirt around).

I am not sure about the horizontal loop costing less to repair or replace. This is actually one of my fears - springing a leak. I took a lot of pictures when they were building the field with reference points so I know where the loop field and main manifold is - but how they would find out which of the 12 slinky runs had the leak would require some work. They would probably have to dig up where the manifold is and then pressure test each loop. Once the bad loop was identified, then i guess that one section of the field could be dug up and replaced. I don't know if that would be cheaper than replacing one section of a vertical loop (one well). Either way - take a load of pictures and maybe put some metal markers in the ground so you can find the loop field later on if it does need repair.

When I started down the GT path, I did not ask as many questions as I should have . Here are some things that I should have asked:

a) what is the BTU load for heating and cooling for the house. Show me the Manual J calculations and all assumptions. Tell me what, if any, conservative fudge factors were applied.

b) what is the recommended sizing of the GT system compared to a) above. Why were these units sized the way they were (check assumptions). Make ure they are not over or under sizing the system. Have the assumptions double checked. What are the options for backup heat (or second stage heat)? I have electric backup heaters - I wish I had thought about LP heaters.

c) what is the normal expected on and off times per hour for the heat pumps during the year for a typical degree day in winter and summer.

d) What type of loop field is required and what is the size. How much excess capacity does the loop field have just in case assumptions above are not correct.

e) what kind of pumping and manifold system will be used. Will each heat pump have it's own loop pump or will it be a shared field (multiple heat pumps use common loops). will the loop pumps only turn on when there is a demand for heating and cooling?

f) how will I know that the system is working as designed? will there be a monitoring system that tells me if the flow rate, delta T's for air and anti-freeze, CFM of the blower , and loop pressure are correct. if not - how do I know when the system is not working as efficiently as it is supposed to?

g) who is the GT heat pump manufacturer? What are the ratings of the equipment (COP and EER) compared to other GT heat pump manufacturers. What are the terms of the warranty and what will they not cover? If equipment failure due to power surges are not covered, make sure they install whole house surge protectors to protect your heat pumps.

h) what is the recommended way to operate the system - propper settings and use of the themrostats. My guys actually did do a good job exlaining this - but you need to know how to use the system properly or it can cause the system to work inefficiently. Ask them how to keep the backup heaters from coming on too frequenctly - the dreaded toaster mode, if you use electric as your backup heat source.

I love having the GT system, but I hate not knowing exactly how the system is performing and when I have an issue (except when I get my power bill which is not a good system at all). I am now in the process of adding the features needed to give me that information - but it should have been part of the system right from the start.

best of luck.


clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 04:47 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 04:47 pm

RE: Rural home; Geothermal system; How to heat water? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jakethewonderdog on 11.29.2008 at 02:33 pm in Plumbing Forum

There are lots of posts about tankless electric. The biggest issue is the amount of current they draw for a whole house setup. There is virtually no savings of energy for a tankless electric over a tank electric (about 2-3%) but the electrical service requirements for a whole house electric tankless are significant and expensive. There are point of use applications that make sense for electric tankless, but not generally whole house.

Consider solar domestic hot water with electric tank heater as backup(could be less expensive than the desuperheater) or simply an electric tank heater.


clipped on: 11.29.2008 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2008 at 02:35 pm

RE: painting fibercement siding (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: whidbey on 10.07.2008 at 12:03 am in Building a Home Forum

eastgate, no. That's materials only. Siding labor is approx. $11,500. Not sure how many square feet as there are too many sides to tally up. We have 9' ceilings (10' in the garage). House is a modest 2800 square feet inside. The siding cost includes all of the trimboards and soffit material as well... but not the cedar shingles on top or the stone on the bottom.


clipped on: 11.29.2008 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2008 at 12:20 pm

RE: painting fibercement siding (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: whidbey on 10.05.2008 at 05:14 pm in Building a Home Forum

sturdy, got the pricing back though I'm not sure of cost per board. Total price for entire house pre-painted including the Hardi siding is $8,513.00. It was only $2,541.00 to have it painted and the siding itself was just under $6,000 (for a total of $8,513.00).

Ordering tomorrow morning and it should take two to three weeks until delivery. Lumber yard will send the order right over to Woodtone and Woodtone delivers it to the jobsite.

Hope this helps. ;)


clipped on: 11.29.2008 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2008 at 12:19 pm

RE: Climatemaster Geo Tranquility or Genesis? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: funnycide on 08.18.2008 at 10:46 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

You should look into the Tranquility 20 series. It is the line in between the genesis and T27. It is single stage with or without variable speed fan. the price is only a few hundred $ more than the genesis.
If you plan on having a wood stove make sure you install a return grille nearby. When the wood stove is burning, run constant fan and that heat will be distributed throughout the house.


clipped on: 08.20.2008 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 08.20.2008 at 11:10 am