Clippings by cryptandrus

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RE: Planning meals for a year (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: grainlady on 01.23.2010 at 02:10 pm in Money Saving Tips Forum

The best storage for home-dehydrated foods is in an oxygen-free container. For me, that's a canning jar (pints and quarts) with a FoodSaver vacuum-sealed canning lid on them for oxygen-free storage. When these foods move from storage to pantry use, I'll replace the lid with a FoodSaver Universal Lid, which is easier to open and reseal during use. I like using jars for storage so you can see if there is any moisture accumulating in the jar, or if there is any mold growing. Neither thing you want to happen to your foods in storage.

Store in a cool, dry, dark place. Recommended storage times for dried foods range from four months to one year. Most dried fruits can be stored for one year at 60F (longer if you vacuum-seal it), but only six months at 80F. Vegetables have about half the shelf-life of fruits. Since I have limited space in my freezer, I often purchase frozen veggies when they are on sale and dehydrate them. You can do the same with frozen fruit.

Another storage option is to freeze dehydrated foods, if you have the freezer space, which will keep them longer. In fact, there is a "new" method called DEHYDROFREEZING. Using this method you remove about 70% of the moisture, but you MUST store the food in the freezer to prevent bacteria growth. The benefits of this method are the fruits and vegetables have good flavor and color, and they reconstitute in about half the time it takes for traditionally dried foods. They also take up less space in the freeze than whole foods.

Freeze-dried foods are mainly in my 3rd layer of Food Storage - Emergency Long-term Storage. When these foods are rotated into the pantry, I place them in large storage jars (various kinds and sizes) and use a FoodSaver Universal Lid so I can store them oxygen-free. This is the best way I've found to keep/use them. A can of freeze-dried corn or peas will have 20-22 1/2-cup servings in it. There IS a learning curve when it comes to using freeze-dried foods. They rehydrate in less time than dehydrated, and are nearly like fresh when rehydrated.

For more information about dehydrating, check out this link:

I also love the book: "Making & Using Dried Foods" by Phyllis Hobson. Which includes recipes for using your dried foods.

A great book for using bean flour is "Country Beans" by Rita Bingham. You can find a few recipes from the book, including ones you are interested in, at these links:



clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 02:51 pm

RE: Help with Window over Aga (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: marthavila on 01.19.2010 at 12:30 am in Kitchens Forum

Gee, it sounds like you have a very interesting problem for the TKO crowd to help solve! I'm also thinking that, in order for us to give you the best advice though, we'll really need to see some photos or, at the very least, a good representation of your layout. Have you tried following the photo posting instructions that are in the "Read Me If You're New to GW" thread? If so, and you're still having trouble, can you get someone else to post them for you? From the brief description of your house and kitchen, your reno project sounds fantastic. And, as the lover of old houses as well as the owner of a claret red Aga 6-4 (no, not the cooker), I'm dying to see what you've got going on! Photos Please! :-)

BTW, here are the instructions from the "Read Me" thread:

Posting a picture from your photo hosting account (e.g., PhotoBucket)

First, where are your pictures? If on your computer only, you'll need to upload them somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket.

1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera but get them on disk when they're developed)

3. Resize your pics so they're approx 400x300 (resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar)

4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

5. Find the label that contains the link to the picture

(In PhotoBucket, it's the box labeled "HTML Code")

6. Copy that link and paste it into the "Message" box of a post.

7. When you "Preview" your message, you'll see the picture.

Posting a picture from somewhere other than your Photo hosting account

1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want the picture to be:

2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/image.jpg with the address of the image.

3. When you "preview" the message, you should see the picture



clipped on: 01.19.2010 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 01.19.2010 at 11:15 am

RE: Major disappointment in Miele washer / dryer (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: regus_patoff on 09.14.2008 at 01:25 pm in Laundry Room Forum

You can do bold, italics, and underline or all three

the start of bold is <> with the letter b between

underline is u

italics is i

the end of any type is <> with the /b , or /i, or /u between

double-check your < >'s when previewing


clipped on: 01.07.2010 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2010 at 12:51 pm

RE: Need advice from Charlie's soap lovers....! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cryptandrus on 08.13.2009 at 12:26 pm in Laundry Room Forum

The following text is copied from a PDF I received from the Charlie's Soap people (topic = hard water)

Water Quality and Laundry Problems
Ann Vanderpoorten Beard
Extension clothing and textiles specialist, The Texas A&M University System

This paper has been altered (....) by me, Charlie Sutherland, only to clarify some terms and show how our Charlie's Soap relates to the report.

Research on laundering has shown that many factors affect the cleanliness of the wash. One often ignored factor is the quality of the water used. Several laundry problems are directly related to minerals, organic matter, and other impurities in the water supply. Some laundry problems may have similar symptoms but more than one possible cause. To determine if a combination of factors or water quality alone is responsible for your laundry problem, consider your equipment, water, products and procedures.

Problem: Hard Water

Laundry Symptoms:
Dinginess or graying, yellowing
General soil build-up
Stiff, harsh feel to fabrics
White or gray streaks on colored fabrics

Calcium and magnesium are usually the minerals that make water hard. The greater the concentration of these minerals, the harder the water. Hard water doesn't clean as effectively as soft water. In hard water much of the detergent added to the washer goes to soften the water instead of to clean the clothes. This means that more detergent must be used than in soft water. Softening water by using more detergent has two drawbacks; it is expensive and if the detergent contains phosphate it can add to water pollution. Heavy duty liquid detergents will remove soil in hard water almost as effectively as powdered phosphate-built detergents and they do not contribute to water pollution. Normally, non-phosphate powdered detergents and soap do not perform satisfactorily in hard water. (Charlie's Soap is generally quite good, but very hard water needs some extra attention.)

Solution: To prevent the problems caused by hard water, First, use water as hot as recommended for the fabric since all detergents perform better at higher temperatures in any quality water.

Second, soften the water. Water may be softened in the washer with nonprecipitating ion-exchange water conditioners* (these are the phosphates you were just warned about), commonly sold in grocery stores simply as water conditioners. Water softener systems which exchange sodium for calcium and magnesium may also be connected to the water supply lines for the washer, the kitchen, or for the entire house. However, persons on sodium-restricted diets should consult their physicians before adding a water softener system to lines that supply water for drinking and cooking because the sodium content of the water will increase.

To remedy problems that have already occurred, fill the washer with the hottest water appropriate for the fabric. Add (a double scoop of Charlie's Soap Powder) and one cup on nonprecipitating *(phosphate) water conditioner. Agitate just long enough to wet the clothes. Soak overnight or for about twelve hours. Drain and spin without agitating.

Launder, using regular cycle, no detergent, and one cup of nonprecipitating *(phosphate) water conditioner. If needed, repeat the launderings using one cup of nonprecipitating *(phosphate) water conditioner and no detergent until no suds appear during the rinses. In order to remove all dinginess it may be necessary to launder with one cup nonprecipitating *(phosphate) water conditioner and chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, following package instructions for the amount of bleach to use.
***end of excerpt***

I, too, live in the midwest and have hard water. I've had good results with Roma and Foca--both are made in Mexico and have non-precipitating phosphates added.

Foca and Roma have too much added scent and optical brighteners, etc. for my taste, I generally prefer to use Charlie's and Bi-O-Kleen.

I recently ordered a small bucket of STPP from the "Chemistry Store," and am having really good results with adding 1 TBSP STPP along with my detergent to each regular-sized load. Hot water helps a lot, too.

Here is a link that might be useful: What is STPP?


clipped on: 08.23.2009 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2009 at 03:15 pm

RE: Repair or buy a new one??? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: dadoes on 07.28.2009 at 03:57 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Serial number indicates manufacture in the 52nd week of 2001.

The model number would be KAWS570JQ4 as jdenyer232 indicates, not KAW5700JQ4. carries the pump for $41.50.

Access to replace it is as follows:

1. Remove the two screws at the bottom corners of the control console. The panel then flips back (it's hinged at the rear).
2. Disconnect the wiring harness plug that goes into the top under the console.
3. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver for leverage, remove the two spring clips that latch the cabinet to the rear panel.
4. The entire cabinet then tilts forward and lifts off the base of the machine, leaving the control console and rear panel.
5. The pump is attached to the front of the motor with two spring clips, and has two hoses attached.
6. Remove the hoses from the pump (have some towels handy to catch the residual water), loosen the clips, pull the pump off the motor.
7. As noted above, if the pump seems stuck to the motor, then the motor shaft may be rusted. The pump drive is plastic but it'll still stick to the shaft if rusted.
8. Align the motor shaft and drive of the new pump, place it onto the motor, replace the clips and attach the hoses.
9. Install the cabinet back onto the machine, hooking the lower front edge of it under the base and lowering it into place. Slots at the rear corners of the cabinet MUST fit onto tabs on the base.
10. Attach the spring clips, connect the wiring harness. flip the console back down and replace the two screws.
11. Done. You've saved ~$140 in labor on the repair.

I can provide some pictures if needed, or you can do a Google search.


clipped on: 07.28.2009 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2009 at 08:13 pm