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How to install marble threshold?

posted by: budge1 on 08.26.2007 at 10:24 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I ordered and received our carrara marble threshold (thanks for the advice johnmari) and I'm thinking I should be able to DIY this.

I know I have to undercut the door jamb (I think that's what it's called) and then do I just trowel on a bit of thinset and set it into place? Can I use premixed thinset here? There is no cement board under where it will go, only plywood.

Thanks

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clipped on: 06.15.2009 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2009 at 03:20 pm

Lacquer over old wood trim?

posted by: gmanley on 09.19.2005 at 06:58 pm in Old House Forum

Hi All,

The woodwork in my 1925 home is lacquered. But it many (most)areas it looks crackled and worn. Can I simply apply new lacquer over the existing and have it melt together into a fresh coat? I've heard that this is possible but am unsure if there are differences between circa 1925 lacquer and the can of minwax in my basement. Thoughts?

Thanks!

NOTES:

Good info on shellac
clipped on: 01.04.2009 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2009 at 11:36 pm

Can I lay tile on luan?

posted by: robynpa on 03.08.2008 at 12:50 pm in Flooring Forum

I have been reading as much as I can about laying tile but I am still confused.

We put new luan down over the old sub-floor in our bathroom. The surface is now clean and flat. The area to be tiled is 5x7. My dad (who has layed tile several times) said I could tile directly over this floor but I have read in some book that I need to put cement board down first.

Which is correct? We will be using 12x12 and 4x4 ceramic tiles.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 12:45 am    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 12:45 am

I'm desparate for shower construction help, please!

posted by: cmc_in_sf on 06.03.2008 at 05:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Oh where do I start? So I've posted here before with questions about Kerdi and there were questions on whether I could use the Kerdi drain or not (due to some SF code that doesn't allow the PVC nor ABS in the plumbing system. Someone from SF did reply that the code may have changed, but unfortunately I didn't have the time nor the resources to find out. So, in the meantime, the contractors already poured the concrete shower pan and slapped some cement board around the shower, but only 6 1/2 feet up. The rest of the walls in greenboard and the ceiling in regular drywall. (note this is a walk in shower). My husband noticed that they used regular drywall screws in the entire shower. I also noticed that they put roofing paper on top of the studs before putting up the cement board and green board and have a sinking feeling that they did not put any other moisture barrier (poly-vinyl?). So, I'm pretty sure we will need to replace the greenboard and drywall (note: we want to put porcelain tile up and on the ceiling)and at that point we will determine if they put any moisture barrier. I also put my foot down on this crew and want to do the work ourselves. Mind you that neither my husband nor I have any experience in bathroom construction. I do have a couple of friends who are willing to help with the tile installation, but they are weekend DIYers. So, I guess my question is:

If we can't go with Kerdi (which I believe is too late any way since the drain is in and the shower pan is installed). Should we go with Reguarding? If so, where should I get info on how to apply? If no, any other suggestions?

I also have a few tile laying questions, but I'll create another post for that...

Thanks!

-Chris

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clipped on: 12.28.2008 at 10:24 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2008 at 10:24 pm

green board vs. hardiebacker

posted by: chuckwagon on 06.23.2008 at 01:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We just had a new tub installed and the worker put green board up since we were going to tile. I have since gone to a tiling class and I was told I needed hardiebacker instead of green board. After some conversation with the instruction, he felt that the green board would be okay for this bath (only DH uses it) but in the future we should have the hardiebacker installed. Is this correct? I hate the thought of ripping out what was just put up, but on the other hand I don't want problems. Thanks! Tammy

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clipped on: 12.28.2008 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2008 at 10:23 pm

Bathroom tile and prep questions

posted by: pjb999 on 10.03.2008 at 01:26 am in Bathrooms Forum

So my mini bathroom reno (which grew) is coming up on its first anniversary and I'd like to finish it now - decided to go with tile behind vanity, above shower was just ordinary drywall which was not in terrible shape but clearly not ideal.

I have put the blue drywall behind where the vanity will go, I'm satisfied it's not going to get that wet, but around the shower and above it, I want to tile and thought I'd use backerboard or whatever the fibrecement sheeting is called....which leads to a couple of more questions -

1) I understand some drywall mud is suitable for tiling and some isn't, what's best, and should the backerboard stuff be mudded at all?

2) Can said mud be used for a transition join between the drywall and the backerboard? Can I tape the join, or is fibreglass tape (the mesh stuff) better?

3) I need to fur the woodwork out to bring everything level with the concealed edges the shower enclosure has under whatever wall material you use. Original setup they used plywood which faired quite well. I thought I might use hardboard (masonite) instead, and use my air stapler to affix it. Is that ok/advisable?

4) I'm (ideally) keeping the original door jamb which means it finishes more or less flush with the drywall. Around the rest of the house I've used a plain, chunky square 4"x1" trim/skirting/doorframe. I figure I have to either affix the trim *before* the tiling because I assume the tiles will butt up against them. I thought about using parchment paper or similar to protect the trim edges when tiling then remove paper and silicone seal the edge (and maybe not attempt to grout up to the edge of the trim)

5) Am I crazy to leave the vinyl flooring when I'm doing virtually everything else? Vinyl is in good shape despite the work etc that went on around it, and it continues out into the hall unbroken so I'd have to redo a fair amount of flooring. I'd love to tile it but I figure walls are hard enough (haven't tiled a wall before) so floors might be a it much...besides, I'm thinking as long as I'm prepared to remove skirting, vanity and toilet, the floor could be redone later, if necessary....?

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clipped on: 12.28.2008 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2008 at 10:08 pm

Recommend a sage green

posted by: sue_ct on 07.26.2008 at 12:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am having trouble finding a nice soft sage green color for the walls in my livingroom, which is visible from the kitchnen and vice versa since I opened up the two rooms, and my cabinets are very dark. My pervious color was a light green but I felt was too "minty" a green and needed updating. I tried dozens of samples and finally decided on one, and painted three walls with it. Guess what? It looks just like the old color but with a touch of gray added. Better, but still a little too "minty" looking. It is Glidden's "China Rain" color that was matched for me.

Brand doesn't matter, although most of the stores locally carry swatches from Glidden, Behr, RL. I would need to go out of town to get BM cards but not too far, if they have a particularly nice one. If I can order cards online that would be fine, too. I just need to be able to obtain paint cards so I can see the color and have it matched if the paint isn't one I want use or not available locally.

I only want to paint this room so many times, so please help!

Sue

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Recommended sage green paints (living room).
clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 02:01 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 02:02 pm

Greens

posted by: bldgis4thebirds on 11.06.2005 at 05:51 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Please post your favirote green pic here with the name and brand. Please limit discussions or questions to the conversation side.

I'll start with friendly frog by Behr
Image hosted by Photobucket.com

And here is a grey green color
SW Durations matte chatroom

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

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Discussion of green paint (living room)
clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 02:00 pm

Choosing kitchen, DR, foyer colors

posted by: gardenwebber on 05.15.2008 at 12:18 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi everyone - we are closing in on our kitchen remodel, and need to start painting! I am here with a counter and cabinet sample begging for help with colors!

Photobucket

The cabinets are maple with a mocha glaze, and as the pic shows, white appliances with Butterrum Granite Formica countertop.

Here is our floorplan also, to give some perspective:

layout

I need to choose colors for the whole kitchen, plus the DR and foyer (all gutted and drywalled) as you can see from the floorplan, all three areas are visible from eachother.

Where it says "desk" in the kitchen, there will actually be a breakfast table. I am not sure about the floor yet, but we are leaning towards high-end laminate in a darker hardwood look/pattern, such as walnut.

I have a few ideas of my own, but really need a fresh perspective. I have never been happy with the colors I pick on my own. I am not sure if I should go with a monochromatic look or if I should go with something more bold (Red or Plum colored DR, for example.) I love green, was thinking of using it in the kitchen and working from there.

I am grateful for your ideas. I love lurking here and seeing all of your beautiful decorating.

I can supply more pics if necessary. Thank you in advance.

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Green ideas for living room
clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 01:59 pm

Beeswax/Mineral oil Paste for Soapstone. Need new source

posted by: mary_in_nc on 06.02.2008 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Help! Just was on Ebay to buy some more Beeswax/Mineral oil paste for my soapstone. The seller has almost doubled their price since I ordered from them earlier this spring. They are now charging $15 + $5.50 for shipping for 16oz. Anyone know of a better deal out there. I would rather not make this myself. THanks!

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Treatment for ss countertops
clipped on: 06.02.2008 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2008 at 08:54 pm

Statuary Marble Backsplash

posted by: atweis on 11.26.2007 at 10:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Does anyone have pictures or comments on statuary marble as a backsplash? I have Statuary on top of my island and Pietra Cardosa on the perimeter...I'm trying to tie it all together. Thanks in advance

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 05:01 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 05:01 pm

sealing old brick

posted by: prairerose on 08.18.2006 at 04:32 pm in Old House Forum

We are taking off 180+ year-old plaster to leave the brick underneath exposed. Problem: some of the bricks are crumbly, and very dusty. How can we seal this brick to keep the dust in the room to a minimum and help to preserve the bricks from further deterioration without changing the appearance of the brick? This is interior so no need to protect from the elements.
THANKS for any advice!

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clipped on: 12.30.2007 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2007 at 11:40 pm

Calling all plaster wall repair experts!

posted by: corgilvr on 10.25.2004 at 06:46 pm in Home Repair Forum

While removing wallpaper I came across a 1 foot square of loose plaster that feels as if it is pulling away from the lathe and is a little crumbled. If I can frost a cake, surely I can repair this wall. Can anyone suggest a good source for step by step repair?

Also, how difficult is it to repoint brick? I am in the process of stripping all my windows and doing all the reglazing myself. I enjoy it and have had good results. Is repointing lots more difficult that stripping, priming, painting and reglazing?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Debbie

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clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 12:59 pm

Repairing holes in plaster from plumbing repair work.

posted by: zenpotter on 12.05.2006 at 09:18 am in Old House Forum

We just had to have an extensive plumbing repair job. The PO put in a bathroom on the second floor that was put in with many problems we have had to have it totally re-plumbed.

Now we have plaster and lath walls to repair. Along with ceilings that appear to be a fiberboard covered with a thin layer of plaster. The walls are 3/4" thick the ceiling 1"

The largest hole in a wall goes from a corner out 58" and down from the ceiling for 78". The same room has a ceiling hole that is just about 4' x 4'. One side meets the wall a second side is 6"out from the wall. All of the cuts are very rough.

The rest of the rooms aren't quite as bad. We have had suggests for repair work done with sheet rock and with plaster. None of them sound like the best way to do it, whatever that may be. The advice all came from people that have never done the same kind of work themselves.

So, we are looking for help. We want to do it ourselves 1. because we like to work on the house 2. we just spent and arm and a leg for the plumbing work.

The link I am adding is to the same question on a different site since I couldn't add the photo here.

Here is a link that might be useful: photo of one room

NOTES:

Good info for repairing plaster
clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 11:52 am

How do i repair plastered walls?

posted by: cjbwillow on 10.28.2005 at 12:50 pm in Remodeling Forum

I have a 1909 farmhouse with plastered walls that has many cracks and a hole that is approx. 3" wide. My DH is a contractor and loves tearing down. You know the saying "the cobbler's son has no shoes". Well, the contractor's wife has no home that is finished. It's the putting back that is the problem. I am determined to do this myself because I don't see it getting done in the near future. I took the wallpaper off several years ago. Took forever to get the glue off. I still have one section to go above the stairs, because i don't want to break my neck trying to do it. Anyway, if someone could get me jump started on where to start, it would be a blessing.

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clipped on: 06.04.2007 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2007 at 09:53 pm

Blueboard and veneer plaster

posted by: tito on 12.01.2006 at 01:22 am in Remodeling Forum

We are remodeling the kitchen in an older home. The old plaster walls have been removed. I now realize that may have been a mistake, but it's too late now. Anyway, I ran across the idea of using blueboard and veneer plaster to approach the look of the old plaster walls, and I have a couple of questions:

1. How hard is it for an amateur to apply the plaster veneer?

2. How thick is the blueboard + veneer?

My inlaws are going to help me with the walls, and they have lots of experience with drywall. I asked them about blueboard and veneer plaster, but they are concerned that they don't know the proper technique for applying plaster.

NOTES:

Good info on plastering
clipped on: 06.04.2007 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2007 at 09:51 pm

Fan Timers

posted by: researchhound on 01.28.2007 at 03:39 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I know many of the new fan models come with built in timers. For those of you who still have only an on/off switch or the old knob style timers (like your often see in motels) that make an obnoxious ticking sound as they work, and are not yet ready to replace your fan, let me suggest a slick little device.
Our problem was our existing fans just had an on/off switch. Our teenage son would often turn on the fan in the downstairs bathroom and then head off to school. We'd later discover the fan had been running all day long. Or, we'd want the upstairs bathroom fan to run awhile but we would need to leave the house and couldn't go off and leave it running.
While shopping for a solution, I came across a digital style timer. It is a series of rectangular shaped buttons that in the model we bought starts with a top button with a time of 30 minutes. The next button down goes to a 15 minute setting, then 10, 5, and then off. If you press the 30 minute setting an LED lights up next to that button. When it's run for 15 minutes, the LED next to the 15 minute setting lights up and so on. The great thing about this timer is that you can set it and forget it. It will run for the desired amount of time and then shut itself off. No more having the fan run all day. If you want the fan to run a little longer (or less), just hit the desired time button and it will adjust.
I can't tell you how slick this little timer is. We liked it so much, we bought a second one and installed it in our upstairs bathroom. They have definitely paid for themselves in energy savings alone - not to mention wear and tear on the fans. We paid about $20 for ours at Home depot. They also had a model that could be set for 60 minutes, then 30, etc.. They are as easy to hook up as a light switch or outlet. A regular rectangular shaped outlet cover like you buy for a GFI outlet or rocker style light switch is all you need for a cover.
Can't tell you the brand name but there was only one model of this style for sale so it's easy to spot. I believe it came in ivory and white but may be available in more colors by now.
I know this may seem a small thing to be excited about but when you come across a neat little gadget like this which can make an existing appliance such as a ventilation fan become more efficient and user friendly, then it deserves some attention.
I'm new to this site so these may have been discussed before. If not, I hope it persuades some of you to look into purchasing one (or more).
researchhound

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clipped on: 02.08.2007 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 02.08.2007 at 05:48 pm

Dark Tiled Showers and Bathrooms--Please post pics

posted by: teechah on 11.15.2006 at 06:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My DH is wanting dark, rough textured (like Daltile's Indian ___? or Napa Gold?). I can't vizualize how it will look. Like a cave, maybe?

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clipped on: 02.06.2007 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2007 at 11:39 pm

Recessed soap and shampoo alcoves ?

posted by: springvillegardens on 12.13.2006 at 09:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I am redoing my master shower and would like recessed soap and shampoo alcoves rather than ones which stick out and don't match. Are there any hints for their size, location in the shower, tiling and suporting of these alcoves?

I was planning on framing them out with 2x4's and then backerboard and then tiling. Also - what is the best method of tiling these little alcoves - using bullnose tile or half-round pieces - does anyone have any pictures of such? Thanks.

NOTES:

Very good info on shower alcoves
clipped on: 02.06.2007 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2007 at 11:36 pm

I need help with heating decision!

posted by: ericaa on 02.04.2007 at 05:35 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi All!

I am renovating the second floor of our house (upstate NY), and putting in two new bathrooms. I am confused about the heating. The architect originally talked about using underfloor heating, which we decided wasn't for us because we really like the heat we get from our old fashioned hot water radiators, and several people told us is was inefficient. But radiators weren't drawn into the plans, and there is not an inch of spare space to put a radiator in either bathroom.

The plumber wants to use kick-space radiators under the vanities, and the architect wants to use heated towel rails (myson or runtal). I cannot imagine that a towel warmer could heat a room (it would have to be on all the time in winter so the pipes don't freeze), and I am not sure the kick-space heater is any better for heating. Plus, in the guest bathroom, the vanity has legs instead of going down to the floor. I have read here that the electric floor warmer mats are not designed to heat the whole room either. What about the underfloor pipes?

The rooms are 100 sq ft (master) and about 70 sq ft (guest) including underneath the tubs. Can you help me figure out what would work? Thank you!

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Bathroom heating
clipped on: 02.06.2007 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2007 at 05:03 pm

Radiant Heat floor

posted by: lwolff on 01.04.2007 at 05:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

I bought Warmly Yours radiant heat to go under our slate floor. My contractor is very experienced in floor installation but has never done radiant heat.

Any experience with Warmly Yours? Any gotchas we should look out for? I read on the site that there is a 2 -14 day curing time for it to work properly. What is most common? Is the thinset curing time how long you wait to use the system or how long you wait to install stone tile over it?

Thanks,

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Bathroom radiant floor heat
clipped on: 02.06.2007 at 05:02 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2007 at 05:02 pm

running catv and cat5e together, ok?

posted by: exilepa on 02.17.2006 at 11:24 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I'm on the final phase of wiring up my basement and am wondering if anyone can tell me if I will have any problems down the road by running the CATV and CAT5 wire togter/side by side? They are both shielded, so I don't see why it would be a problem, but you never and that is why I ask. Thanks in advance for replies.

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clipped on: 12.21.2006 at 02:02 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2006 at 02:02 pm

pine flooring refinish

posted by: kzarina17 on 08.07.2005 at 10:18 am in Old House Forum

Hi everyone,

I live in an old 1925 foursquare home that unfortunately has gone through alot of PO renovations.

The space I am inquiring about is our upstairs. We have three bedrooms and a bath. Since we've moved in, (2 years)
we've stripped wallpaper, gutted one bedroom, tore out carpeting and have since refinished all the rooms with fresh paint on the walls, doors and woodwork.

I have old pine floors throughout. I have considered carpet and have decided against it. I had an estimate done and the cost to refinish is less than carpet. I am thrilled because I prefer the natural floors, hands down.

My questions on the floor are this:

How nice do refinished pine floors come out?

Are the endless carpet nails and tackstrip removal extremely apparant?

What kind of filler is used when filling cracks, nail marks, etc..

Our floor installer also told me that he'd use a water based finish. He said that the oils are becoming illegal to use and that the product he uses is professional grade and extremely durable.

Can someone that has had pine floors educate/prepare me for what I am in for and also what to expect?

Thanks so much!!
Dawn

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clipped on: 11.16.2006 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2006 at 05:18 pm

RE: problems with gas fireplace installatin (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mountainstoveguy on 05.21.2006 at 12:03 pm in Fireplaces Forum

Heatilator makes all types of fireplaces. If you have a novus series, its there decrative line. The caliber and caliberNXT are there heater rated and heater listed series. The novus doesnt put out much heat. Quadrafire is a sister company of heatilator, they are considered more custom and also have higher outputs then some of the heatilator series.

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clipped on: 11.15.2006 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 04:31 pm

RE: Electric Heat Floor mats...is it enough heat? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jamesk on 09.13.2006 at 01:59 am in Bathrooms Forum

Usually, these heat mats are installed to simply take the chill off of bathroom floors. Heating the bathroom itself, usually requires another source of heat.

Have you considered an electric towel warmer/radiator? Runtal makes several models that would easily heat a small bathroom. They're available in both electric and hydronic models. They can be controlled by a timer or left on all the time.

I have the electric Neptune model in all of my bathrooms. It does a very good job of keeping the bathrooms nice and cozy and drying damp towels. Having a nice toasty towel as you step out of the bath or shower is a devine luxury. I guarantee, if you put one in the kid's bathroom, you'll want one for your bathroom, too.

James

Here is a link that might be useful: Runtal Towel Warmer/Radiators

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clipped on: 11.15.2006 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 12:13 pm

Did you raise the height of your vanity?

posted by: valinsv on 07.30.2006 at 12:16 pm in Bathrooms Forum

In our new master bathroom we are planning to put in a 7' vanity with double sinks. I am thinking about putting it kitchen counter height (34-1/2"H cabinets) instead of traditional 29-1/2".

For those that have done so, do you like it?

If I raise the height, do I also increase the depth from 21"D to 24"D like the kitchen cabinets are?

TIA!

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clipped on: 11.15.2006 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 12:10 pm