Clippings by cjc123
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RE: Mirrored 'splash like Candice Olson and lighting conundrum (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: lavender_lass on 03.28.2011 at 11:40 am in Kitchens Forum

Breezy- If you do want pendant lights over the island, I think you have plenty of room. There are many 'flat ceiling' kitchens on the web, with pendant lights :)

These pendant lights are not what I had in mind, but I really wanted you to see the kitchen!

These are some beautiful, smaller pendants, that might be nice possiblities...and a link at the bottom to an article, where I found a few of them. Just some ideas... :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to article

NOTES:

marble subway tile wall... first 2 photos
clipped on: 03.29.2011 at 08:24 am    last updated on: 03.29.2011 at 08:31 am

Cabico, cherry, shaker, quartzite finished kitchen

posted by: cjc123 on 01.28.2011 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

From Kitchen before and after

Kitchen before and after

I need to thank this forum for being so helpful over the last two years. I know we would never have the beautiful, “functional” kitchen we are enjoying without all the sharing that happens here. Thank you SO very much!

Things I love the most, Drawers, drawers, drawers, Franke sink, quartzite counters, microwave closet, wood floors, china hutch, plus too much more to list!

Appliances: GE Café dual fuel range, and counter depth
French door fridge, XO exhaust hood, Bosh DW (3 years old)


Cabinets: Cabico: Cherry with Richland stain. Mix of Beaded Inset (uppers) and Frameless Shaker Style (pantry, lowers and drawers) China hutch has 16” deep lowers and 13” deep uppers, it is all beaded inset. The glass is vintage glass that I salvaged from an 1875 home.(best “find” of kitchen!!)

Hardware: Amerok “Highland Ridge” in dark oiled bronze, Restoration Hardware glass knobs and Vintage crystal knobs on message area.

Counter: Dolomite/quartzite Super White polished

Lighting: Sea Gull xenon linear lighting (under cabinet), Hudson Valley Edison collection in old bronze Pendants and semi flush mount, Juno recessed lighting.

Faucets/sink: Franke ORX110 sink, Grohe soap dispenser, Wellspring Beverage faucet, Aqua-Pure cold water filtration system (also, hooked up to fridge) and Kohler faucet Vinnata (chrome)

Floor: White Oak, with light stain and satin finish

Backsplash: Dal-Tile 3x6 subway tile

Walls: Benjamin Moore: Fieldstone,trim work is Anderson Window white(custom color mix).

Message/phone center, charging area and dog kennel (custom built on site) Tile floor- Iris “brush stroke” color is Ebony stroke 6x24”

I hope if you click on second photo it will take you to the album Again thanks everyone!

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clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2011 at 07:07 pm

RE: Is it a mistake to NOT do recesses in tiled shower? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: just_julie on 03.08.2011 at 11:02 am in Bathrooms Forum

We have a very large niche with glass shelves-even a light that shines down through the shelves. It's placed on the wall that divides the shower from the bathroom and yes, it's completely full!

Of course it gets dirty but it's really easy to clean. Someone commented about getting nasty years down the road.... if your shower is used often, your grout should be sealed every year with a GOOD sealer.

We have fixed the right sides of the shelves so they now look like the left.

NOTES:

Bathroom shower nieches
clipped on: 03.08.2011 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2011 at 12:20 pm

RE: What handheld shower/slide bar would you recommend? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: fidoprincess on 10.20.2009 at 02:04 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Depending on the laws where you live, you may be able to simply use a pressure balance valve:
For example, Grohe 35 015 000 Universal Pressure Balance Rough-In ValveGrohe List: $145.00 on sale=$87.00
From Plumber Surplus

I did not like the "look" of all those knobs and dials so we went with just the pressure balance valve and did 2, one on each end of the shower. I didn't need the fancy "save my temp setting" that you get with the thermostatic valve and we are pleased with the set up-plus just one thing to turn on for each end of the shower.

You still need to buy the trim, etc but the rough in valve is pretty cheap to balance out the price of the rest. The shower bar/system is $380 from them and then you still need the "elbow" where the hose comes out of the wall. They do "negotiate" prices over the phone and I was happy with their service. You still have a ton of trims (The part that turns the water on and off) to choose from and instead of 2 different handles, you only need one. Hope this helps some!

NOTES:

master bath
clipped on: 12.04.2010 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2010 at 05:51 pm

RE: Anyone do away with their kitchen table and extend their isla (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on 03.23.2010 at 01:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Great island Lagrant! I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to use your island to point out to the OP what to consider if she goes forward with this idea...your island shows how it can be done right!

Considerations:

  • For younger and older people, seating higher than table-height can be uncomfortable

  • If seating is all in a row, then it is not very conducive for conversation, you'll be sitting "like ducks in a row". Notice Lagrant's island...it has seating on 3 sides...much more people-friendly than most islands I see out there. It really looks like a giant table w/a sink at the end with the advantage of extra storage and a wonderfully large expanse of workspace for large projects and at a nice working height.

  • Keep in mind that if you lower the seating side, it has the same negative effect on workspace, etc. that raising the seating has...it eliminates that nice expanse of workspace I mentioned above. To me, more than one level actually negates the positive benefits. To mitigate the negative impact of more than one level, try to keep the seating on one end...sort of like a table attached to the island. The other end of the island would then give you that wonderful expanse of workspace.

  • If you plan to eat meals at the island, do not put your Cleanup Zone (i.e., main/cleanup sink & DW) in the island near the seats... Even more importantly, don't put your Cooking Zone (i.e., cooktop/range) in the island anywhere near the seats either (actually, don't put your cooktop/range anywhere in the island!) Again, notice the relationship b/w the sink & seats in Lagrant's island...the sink is on one end and the seating is on the other...no one is looking directly into a sink full of dirty dishes and no one has dirty dishes looming over them while eating!

  • Do you have a DR or other table space elsewhere? If not, I would not eliminate your table. Family meals are more "intimate" at a table than sitting at an island, especially "special" family gatherings such as birthdays, holiday dinners, etc.

  • If this will be your primary seating, I very, very strongly advise you to meet or exceed the NKBA Guidelines for seating space...including linear space and overhang and aisle space around the seats!

    NKBA Guidelines:

    • Overhang [Guideline 9: Seating Clearance]
      • 30" high tables/counters ("table-height"): 18" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 18" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 18" of clear knee space

      • 36" high counters ("counter-height"): 15" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 15" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 15" of clear knee space.

      • 42" high counters ("bar-height"): 12" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 12" deep knee space for each seated diner and 12" of clear knee space.

      • Remember: These are minimums

    • Seating/linear space (an extension of the above)
      • 24" per seat (2 feet). So, for two people, you need at least 48" or 4 feet. For 8 people, you need at least 16 feet (8 people x 2')
      • If "rounding the corner", be sure the knee space is not shared by two seats...a common mistake made. Using Lagrant's island as an example again, notice there is no overlap of knee space on the corners.

    • Aisle width with seating - if no counters or appliances behind seats [Guideline 8: Traffic Clearance at Seating]
      • In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area.
      • If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past.
      • If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past.

    • Aisle width with seating - if counters or appliances behind seats

      The NKBA is curiously silent about this. Either meaning it's not recommended or they couldn't decide on a guideline. I suppose the "obstruction" could be thought to mean a working counter or appliance, however, the recommendations do not allow for workroom, so I am reasonably sure that is not what was meant.

      The following is what is recommended for work aisles. So, I would take these recommendations and add the 32" from above (probably 24" to 30" more would be enough)

      [Guideline 6: Work Aisle]

      • Single cook/worker in the kitchen: The width of a work aisle should be at least 42" for one cook. [42" + 30" = 72" or 42" + 24" = 66"]

        Note: Some people have found 36" wide enough...but this is usually either a one-cook kitchen or work space and no traffic goes through that aisle.

      • Multiple cooks/workers: The width of a work aisle should be at least 48" for multiple cooks. [48" + 30" = 78" or 48" + 24" = 72"]
      • Measure between the counter frontage [edge], tall cabinets and/or appliances.


    HTH!

    • Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards (with pictures!)

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 03.25.2010 at 10:24 am    last updated on: 03.25.2010 at 10:24 am

    RE: Light bulbs for 5 inch vs 6 inch recessed cans (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: chris45ny on 03.09.2010 at 03:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We decided early on to go with Juno and also have 8' ceilings. This is a remodel, not a new build.

    After much advice from this forum and over at the lighting forum plus conversations/e-mails with Juno tech, laner.com, etc. we drove 2 hours to a electric supply company that had all the Juno on display and a very knowledgeable manager who helped with our decision.

    We ended up with 5" Juno model IC20R airloc housings, Juno model 206 WHZ-WH (wheat haze with white trim ring) and 50PAR30LN/H/FL bulbs-to be honest, I don't know if bulbs are incandescent or halogen-I just let the store manager choose.

    Since these will be on a dimmer, we were told can't use fluorescent bulbs-they won't work with a dimmer.

    The best thing for me was being able to actually see the Halo and Juno choices and then pick what I liked best!!

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 03.10.2010 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2010 at 12:30 pm

    RE: Reverse Osmosis Water Filter Location (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: pricklypearcactus on 02.25.2010 at 05:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    My reverse osmosis filter (multiple filters and tank) is under my main kitchen sink. I have a spigot on the main kitchen sink. I recently installed a new fridge with in the door water and ice and I plumbed a small line under the kitchen floor (ceiling of basement room below the kitchen is unfinished) to the wall behind the fridge and then to the fridge. I don't even use the Brita filter in the fridge. The amount of filtration done by the reverse osmosis is so much better than anything a Brita filter could ever do. And this way I can have tepid or cool water for drinking and cooking, and even filtered ice cubes.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 02.25.2010 at 05:57 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2010 at 05:57 pm

    for lovers of 'vintage kitchens'

    posted by: bevangel on 02.23.2010 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I just came across this website with images of kitchens and appliances from the early 1900's and just had to share with y'all.

    Check out the links on the page to stoves and refrigerators also. I've been lusting after a reproduction of the 1917 Glenwood Gold Medal stove shown in the 6th image down on the stove page - but the price tag ($8,700!) is more than my entire appliances budget! Wonder if 100 years from now someone will be making reproductions of early 21st century appliances and selling them for 4 or 5 times the cost of the latest 22nd century model? LOL!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Model kitchens from the early twentieth century

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 02.24.2010 at 02:09 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2010 at 02:09 pm

     
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