Clippings by circuspeanut

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

Retrofitting supersusans in upper cabs--a (long) success story

posted by: Bellsmom on 09.15.2012 at 09:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know I will try your patience with this long and picture laden post, but I really want to share this with you. It is the kind of thing I have found here when I had a problem and could not imagine an answer as we remodeled. Maybe someone will find this useful. I hope so.

When we remodeled our kitchen about a year ago, I asked that the upper cabs be 15'' deep. Since I prep on the island and seldom on the perimeter under the cabs, and since I am fairly short (5' 2'') the deeper wall cabs cause no inconvenience, and they are GREAT for storage.

I knew at the time that I was creating a monster in the corner though. Here is the way the old corner looked. Pretty, but it was a storage nightmare. Items stored at the back were more than 2 feet behind the items in the front. Impossible to reach without emptying the whole shelf.

I knew I wanted susans there, but the cabinet makers simply were not comfortable modifying them as I wanted. And I knew that, unlike base cabinets, it WAS possible to add susans to wall cabinets after the cabs were installed. So I waited. I had thought I could do this myself, but found that lifting the shelf and susan into place was beyond my strength, so this summer, a young contractor and I tackled the job.

There were three shelves, but I knew that after I modified them, I wanted four. I found a source for 24'' round Rev-a-shelf susans at less than $40 each and ordered 4 of them. I painted the edge so it would match the dark cherry cabs. They looked like this:
I wasn't happy with the small bearing under them, nor with the wasted vertical space. Each susan with its 2'' rim, bearings, mounting plate, and the shelf below it took 3'' of vertical space--so four of them would eat up 12'' in my 40'' cabinet! So we started cutting and replacing. We cut off one inch from the tops of the rim and a slice of the front edge to make a D-shaped instead of a round susan. We added a new, straight edge across the cut. (I was unable to find 24'' D-shaped susans anywhere. I had played with the idea of making the whole thing, but at less than $40 each, this seemed the better way.) Here are the cut off tops and the bearings and original crude turn table which we replaced or eliminated:

And here is a chopped and sectioned susan in position on the new shelf which we made to better use the vertical height provided by the more efficient bearings and the cut-down rim:

I know this is long, but I want to share what I can store on two different shelves in this corner susan. Bear with me.
Here is the front of the bottom shelf.
Storage is planned so that multiple identical items are arranged in front to back rows. Everything is accessible from the front. Here is the same shelf rotated about 45 degrees:
And rotated another 45 degrees or more:
All of the items on this shelf are used almost daily.

And one more shelf, This is the second one.
Front of shelf (I love teapots!)

Rotated about 1/3 of the way:

And rotated again:

Those big nested mixing bowls were space gobblers on any shelf or in any drawer before. I am not sure they would even fit in 12'' deep cabs. They are perfect here. Easy to reach and remove.

I plan to use the two upper shelves for ''dead'' or seasonal storage because I can reach them only with a ladder.

Here is a flash photo of the way the corner looks now. Forgive the ugly shadows the dimpled glass casts under a photo flash.

In summary: If you have limited storage space and every inch counts, consider 15'' deep uppers. If you do 15'' deep uppers, consider susans on the shelves. I strongly recommend retrofitting commercial susans or, better yet, having your cabinet maker custom make them to use every possible inch of vertical and horizontal space.

I like the new easy reach corner upper shelves a lot, but this holds SO much more that I would not change even if I could.

As a final image, I am going to post the bearings we used. I found them on Amazon. The shelves just coast with a slight spin. Brooks, my friend and budding contractor, was astonished at the difference they made:

I have had an immense amount of fun with this project. And playing with organizing the storage has only begun. Next stop is toe kick drawers!!

Thanks for looking. And thank you, GWers, for teaching me that almost anything I can imagine is possible--and then helping me imagine it!



My "sink gunk" post is in this thread, with pictures of various sink reveals
clipped on: 09.17.2012 at 07:43 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 11:53 am

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?


whole thread has good considerations
clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 11:52 am

a question for owners of undermount sinks

posted by: lisapoi on 09.28.2011 at 08:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would like an undermount sink in my yet-to-be-built new kitchen, but my husband is dead set against it. I don't like the 'gunk' that seems to collect in the crack between my current drop in sink rim and the laminate counter. My husband insists that even more gunk collects under the counter with an undermount sink, but you just don't see it. His contention is that at least with the top mount sink you can see the gunk and clean it. I'ver NEVER heard anyone complain about this issue with the undermount sink, but I thought I would ask people who have definitely had more experience with this than we have . . . is this an issue with an undermount sink? (By the way, our new kitchen counter will either be corian or granite).


clipped on: 07.13.2012 at 09:48 am    last updated on: 07.13.2012 at 09:48 am

RE: Soapstone: drainboard, built in sink??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: prospect711 on 06.25.2012 at 10:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Like this?



clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 11:09 am

I did it! DIY copper countertops

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.24.2008 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Background: this is my first house, and I am doing an extreme DIY kitchen using recycled cabinetry and refurbishing many already existing aspects of the 1920s bungalow kitchen.

I've never been a granite fan and wanted something warmer that would fit in just right with the well-used, modest coastal bungalow style of my place. So ... I made my own copper countertops! For a price just under $21/sf, this was even more reasonable than plastic or butcher block, and vastly more durable. It's green, it's recyclable, and has the right historical feel to it for the house.

We used mdf as a substrate and basically "laminated" heavy-gauge copper onto it. This took many steps (I detailed the process in the metalworking forum), but I think the results are really stunning and wanted to share some pics for anyone else interested in exploring copper. Well, OK, I did need to brag, just a little. ;-)

Not quite all done yet, but hopefully enough to post a teaser. They look a little rough in the pix; I will be cleaning and buffing the copper smooth again when I've mounted the sinks.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

On the advice of other copper countertop owners (ahem! you know who you are), I plan on simply waxing them and letting them patinate to their little hearts' content.

Then .. on to tiling the backsplash and refinishing the fir floors. *whew!*


clipped on: 03.14.2009 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2009 at 02:50 pm

DIY copper countertop

posted by: jenathegreat on 11.22.2004 at 05:18 pm in Metalworking Forum

We'd like to cover our countertop base with copper sheeting. We've found it locally and online in 3'x10' sheets in either 16 oz or 20 oz.

We've never worked with metal, but since there are only 2 straight runs of countertop, we'd only have to cut out a hole for the sink and cooktop, and bend the metal to cover the edge of the plywood. We plan to bend it over and under the base and fasten it to the bottom and also have it curve up the wall to form a little backsplash.

1) See any problems with this plan? Anything wrong with using copper sheeting?
2) Will we be able to bend it without any special tools? What will we need to cut it with? I really have no concept of how hard or flexible either 16oz or 20oz copper sheets would be.
3) Recommend either 16 or 20oz?
4) How do we handle the outside corner?

Thanks for any advice or warnings...


clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 09:24 pm