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Fiberglass vs. pleated furnace filters

posted by: ljbrandt on 05.04.2010 at 11:33 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

I've been doing ALOT of reading and research on this subject and can't find a definitive impartial opinion on which filter to use.
My situation : 2 year old Goodman 95% furnace and a/c unit. No allergies or excess dust buildup in the house...I just want the air handler to run as efficiently as possible with the least restrictive air flow, but don't want to lose mechanical efficiency by having dust build-up on the coils.
Will a basic el cheapo fiberglass filter changed every month be adequate in preventing dust buildup inside the unit? Whats your opinion? thanks!

P.S. as far as air filtration goes for pollen/dust etcIll be using a 20" box fan with a 20x20 pleated air filter attached :=)


clipped on: 08.17.2012 at 09:15 am    last updated on: 08.17.2012 at 09:15 am

Transition from pavers on slab down to sidewalk without pavers

posted by: cindywhitall on 06.06.2009 at 10:35 pm in Gardening with Stone Forum

My ugly concrete slab is going to be covered with pavers, probably the brick looking type from HD or Lowes. The patio meets a sidewalk which 30 feet later meets the driveway. At some point the pavers will end at either the sidewalk or the driveway. Has anybody found an easy, not unattractive way to transition from paver height down to sidewalk height. Hubby WILL NOT remove the slab to lay the pavers. DOn't know if we can put a diamond blade in the miter saw and make wedge shaped pieces. Maybe fill it with cement? (probably ugly-since it wouldn't match the old cement)

Why don't they sell a paver shaped for this??????


clipped on: 06.06.2009 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2009 at 10:35 pm

paint no tiles

posted by: broadwinged on 03.29.2009 at 08:29 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So, we're just buying a new to us older house. Lots of good work was done about 7 years ago but the one sore spot is the main bathroom. While we want some nice touches we need to watch the pocket book.

It is a 6' x 8' bath with an older - kind of deco - tub along the far wall. That will stay, as will the odd corner toilet (on the opposite wall from the bath) most everything else will go. We've found a nice older sink.

We'll likely use a bead board wainscoting at about 4' height and keep a wide plank wood floor that we'll likely paint.

Here's my question. Is it possible or desirable to avoid the use of tile on the wall where the tub is? Will a paint like Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Tile hold up to being on a tub wall where there is a shower? I'd like to simply put in a rain shower system...the wall will get wet. Is this foolish? I'm assuming so but thought I'd ask before continuing to consider how to cover the wall with the tub, make the transition from wainscoting to tile etc...

Sorry I don't have a photo yet...if this makes sense to folks here, I'd be interested in initial thoughts about this.

Trying to keep it simple.



clipped on: 03.30.2009 at 12:31 am    last updated on: 03.30.2009 at 12:31 am

Permanent marker on the bottom of china figurine

posted by: bronwynsmom on 02.12.2009 at 09:53 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

My darling aunt has divided her collection of figurines between her daughters, and in preparation, she wrote their names on the bottoms in either Flair pen or Sharpie or some such thing.
How do they get it off?


clipped on: 03.06.2009 at 12:13 am    last updated on: 03.06.2009 at 12:14 am

Drapes for french door and windows?

posted by: amblyopia on 12.25.2008 at 10:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Greetings, everyone. Happy holidays!

I'm in the process of decorating my family room which has french doors open to the deck and 2 windows. What do you usually do with drapes? using matching material or not necessary? curtains for french doors and roman shades for windows? or full length curtains for windows also? I would appreciate it very much if anyone can post some pics. TIA.


clipped on: 02.24.2009 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2009 at 11:28 pm

Need advice - patio door coverings

posted by: kismet08 on 11.25.2008 at 11:00 am in Home Decorating Forum

I think my vertical blinds have finally had it. I went to close them last night and lost another panel (darn thing broke at the clip, second one in 6 months). Now when fully extended, it no longer covers the entire door.

I want to replace the vertical blinds with thermal pinch pleat drapes, since the windows are a southern exposure and it gets quite warm in the nook in the summer. I was looking online and it seems I would have two options: a single patio door panel, or just do a pair as you would on a window. I like the look of the pair vs. a single panel that would gather at one end. My concern is that it might make it difficult to use the patio door? would the panel on the sliding side get in the way? Anybody have this on their sliding patio door?

My other problem is, I have two windows flanking that door (its a bay window, with the patio door in the center of the bay). Should I cover them all with floor length panels? Right now I have vertical blinds on the patio, and roman shades on the side windows.

Anybody else struggle covering these?


clipped on: 02.24.2009 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2009 at 11:26 pm

sneak preview: my hand-blown glass cabinet knobs!!

posted by: susanpn on 02.19.2009 at 01:50 pm in Home Decorating Forum

They just arrived! You have to imagine them on white cabinets though, I photographed them on white paper to get an idea. I put a couple on my current wood cabs just to see what they would look like mounted. I love that they are not all uniform in size and even a bit in shape, it shows they are truly handmade (in the Arts & Crafts tradition of craftsmanship, yet a little more eclectic than the standard!) I wanted something fun and different so instead of spheres I asked for them to be squares (more craftsman/arts & crafts like than round shapes) and I was hoping they would look like slightly melted ice cubes with the color swirls inside. I think it's "Mission Accomplished"!
Now I just have to wait a few more months to have an actual new kitchen to put them in! Can't wait. At least this is making me feel like it is actually going to happen.








clipped on: 02.24.2009 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2009 at 11:21 pm

Cleaning oven door between glass

posted by: SouthboundTrain on 09.17.2004 at 11:00 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

Help, please. I have a standard GE oven and somehow dark streaks of something have gotten inside the oven door, it looks like it's sort of between glass panels. Nothing in the oven directions speak to this. Has anyone else had this problem? It looks like I can unbolt the inside glass panel but I'm concerned about the insulation looking strip. Any advice would be most welcome. Oh, the self cleaning cycle has no affect. Thanks.


clipped on: 02.13.2009 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2009 at 10:03 pm

granite slab shower floor

posted by: kpaquette on 01.27.2009 at 09:37 am in Bathrooms Forum

We are considering doing a black honed granite shower floor - I want something dark, and one of our friends says he saw this done in a hotel. He said that it was a slab without a slope, and it surprisingly was not slippery. Has anyone here ever done it? is it even possible?

Also, the shower is 30x40 and is for a second floor bathroom - we've already framed, sheetrocked, etc - would a slab be too heavy, or should we have beefed up the floor to handle the weight?

Or are we better off doing cultured granite or some other composite?


clipped on: 02.13.2009 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2009 at 09:43 pm

Will this cabinet re-fit work?

posted by: cindywhitall on 01.30.2009 at 10:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have Yorktowne Avondale cabinets that are 13 years old, but in great shape. My vanity is 90" long and has a 30" cabinet w/double doors on each end and just a desk type of drawer in the middle w/ an opening underneath for a vanity chair that I will never own.

I tried to get a third cabinet to slide in the middle but was advised that Yorktowne had since changed the height of the toe kick and it wouldn't line up. In addition, there is now tile around the cabinets, but not under them, and there is tile under the drawer area, so it could never line up, or even fit a standard base cabinet.

I have played with the idea of mounting a WALL cabinet (no toe kick) under the drawer by using a one inch filler and building a faux toe kick base out of lumber and covering all the toe kick w/molding. The wall cabinet would sort of sit on the base and attach to the sides of the exisitng cabinets. With a one inch filler it should all line up across the bottom of the face frames. I wondered about the distance from the bottom of the face frame to the bottom of the door, and whether that will match on the wall cabinet and existing cabinet. Also deciding between 12" depth($314) and 21" depth ($414)

For $250 I can get just the doors and face frame, and not have a "real" cabinet at all, just sort of like doors leading to an empty space. I would glue/nail them to the exisitng cabinets(husband or brother could figure it out!)

I mainly want to fill the useless space because it is not attractive. I have cleaning supplies hidden in a basket in the space now.

Just got new granite counter last week. Love it! (Then needed new knobs, new bathrugs, new towel, new facuet....the granite just starts the snowball rolling!)

Any thoughts. I'd post photos if I new how! Anywhere else I should post this?


clipped on: 01.30.2009 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2009 at 10:22 pm

Here's my this a good choice for the floor tile???

posted by: sarahandbray on 01.25.2009 at 02:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are FINALLY starting our bathroom renovation in our 150-year-old farmhouse. It's a small bathroom--10' long, 7' wide and only 7' ceilings. I've already purchased the vanity--crema marfil top and VERY dark espresso cabinet (much darker than in the dark light it looks almost black). And the crema marfil is a very pretty, yellowy cream with very thin, tan veins--not as white as in the picture.

dorset vanity for upstairs bath

Goal for the look--clean, simple, fresh & new, but keeping the old feel of the farmhouse reminiscent in some things. Bathroom is very bright and sunny with the original thick trim & rosettes, original doors, and refinished (but original) radiator.

I would like a tile floor that can keep up with a young family of five (kids are 1, 3, 5) with no cleaning lady (except me!), and will look great with this vanity.

I saw a basketweave tile at the tile shop--how do you think this would look with it?

basketweave tile

I'll take any and all suggestions, links to websites...whatever!!!
sarah from Albany


clipped on: 01.25.2009 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2009 at 11:14 pm

Custom or Stock Shower Door?

posted by: susanuws on 01.22.2009 at 01:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are at the point in our bathroom remodel (upstairs hall/kids' bath)when we have to make a decision about a shower door. It's a cast-iron Kohler 60" tub (Villager) with a shower overhead. We want a dual-bypass frameless slider. Custom door estimate is $1500, including the special coating that reduces the need for squegee-ing. Stock doors I've seen run about $500. Is it worth it to go custom?


clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 11:47 am

12 X 9 master bath with HUGE tub (pics)

posted by: jdechris on 01.23.2009 at 03:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My 5 year old master bathroom needs updating. The problems we face are: small 48" vanity, small shower unit (46 X 33) with outdated doors, and a huge corner tub (71" corner to edge). I am hoping to spend minimal funds with a DIY and we are not plumbers.

I definately want to to:
buy a bigger vanity ideally 72"
replace shower unit with tile & glass doors
keep the toilet & bidet
rip up the linoleum floor & replace with tile

I'm not sure what to do about the large tub. Should I keep it and retile around it? Should I replace with a smaller corner tub? I was also considering putting in a pedastal tub ($1200 at costco) on an angle but not sure if this would look weird. Some people walk in the room and think the tub is great. I walk in the room and think its way too big for the space.

Please give me your opinions. We plan to stay in this house about 8 more years. I'd love to gain a bigger shower and small tub but not sure our budget allows this so we are trying to get the most bang for the buck.




clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 11:31 am

NEED Advice - glass door vs shower curtain!!

posted by: kiwihouse on 01.08.2009 at 06:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are redoing entire house and have gone WAY over budget and running out of money...We just got estimate for glass door for Master Bathroom which was tiled with carrera marble on walls and basketweave marble on floor. The door is almost $2,000. If we can't handle more debt today should we 1. use a shower curtain rod and curtain until we are comfortable taking on more debt or 2. get it the glass with metal framing to bring the cost down and get it done "right" the first time???? What would you do???


clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 08:16 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 08:16 pm

laminate on bathroom vanity (advise to do-it-yourselfer please)

posted by: maidinmontana on 01.23.2009 at 01:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I am a renter so I have to put up with a lot of other peoples choices, so in the master bath I decided to do away with the 80's blue counter top. It is formica or laminate whatever they call it. Well, I decided to take the cheap route and bought crylon fusion spray paint. It went on good and everything was fine until I set stuff on it, it left indents in the surface, so I bought some more paint and rolled it on, (I know, what was I thinking) anyway, the end result was anything but accomplished. Now I am back to square one. I want to resurface the entire counter top with a sheet of laminate. I have read about the process, the contact cement, the wood dowels to allow for accurate placement, I am pretty sure I can do it, my ?'s are

1. Will it work to put the laminate over the already painted surface?
2. I used a solvent to remove the "bumps" from the marred spot, now it's slightly bumpy, nothing raised just rough to the touch, is this going to affect the laminate once it is on?
3. What is the best way to cut the laminate? I saw a cutter at Lowes that looks a lot like a box knife but it was $27.00 I do have a jigsaw, will that work?
Any other suggestions or something I didn't think of or mention would be appreciated as well.The countertop is only 4 1/2 ' long.
PS I'm a woman, not that it matters, but that might explain some of the bonehead flair of my question/concerns.


clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 08:15 pm

3 CM or 2 CM granite?

posted by: teppy on 01.22.2009 at 08:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I always had no doubt that I wanted 3CM granite, but after talking to my granite man, he tells me that 8 of 10 kitchens that he does is done with the 2CM. This kind of surprised me. I am just curious what people here have. Please anyone post your granite thickness.


clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 07:31 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 07:31 pm

Tile vs. hardwood - please help me decide

posted by: buildinginva on 01.23.2009 at 03:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know this subject has been covered to some extent before, but I would really appreciate thoughts from those of you with hardwood and tile in the kitchen.

My biggest concern is that the kitchen is very open to the family room (and also has door openings to the butler's pantry and mud room). The rest of the main floor, other than the mud room, will have hardwood floors (red oak, medium stain). I am also concerned about hardness/back and knees issues and grout maintenance. In addition, our basement will be unfinished for the next few years and I am paranoid that the floor will be cold (radiant heat is not in the budget).

DH is totally set on tile (it would be porcelain), being from CA where it's common. He likes tile for aesthetic reasons and loves the feel of smooth cold floors (go figure!). He thinks that hardwood floors will not survive the wear and tear imposed by us, our toddler and our cat, and that scratches will be visible.

I would really appreciate thoughts on all of these issues (plus any arguments to help me persuade DH).



clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 05:38 pm

Should I be wary of a really cheap granite quote??

posted by: staceyinmaine on 01.07.2009 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are ordering our cabinets tomorrow so I've been starting to think about counters. Although I personally like the soft, organic look of limestone or soapstone or slate, this is a 3-year house for us and I need to keep resale very much in mind. Here in New England, it seems granite is still king.

I have seen ads from granite fabricators looking to fill this slow season, most around $55 sq. ft. installed with limited color choices. If I choose the "perfect" color at the stone store, I'll pay about $75. But I saw an ad from a Massachusetts shop for $35 sf installed!!!!! I can only choose from a very limited selection, but he says I CAN drive down to Massachusetts and choose the slab I want.

Does this sound too good to be true? What should I be asking?

Thanks- this forum is so helpful!!



clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 08:51 pm