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Walk-in pantry finally finished...and FULL!!!

posted by: arlosmom on 02.14.2011 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I posted pictures of my just completed walk-in pantry a little over a week ago, but had to wait for the paint to cure on the shelves before loading. So, for all of you other TKOs out there, here it is!!!:


DH installed a dimmer on the light for me.

We put the old window shade back up...should I lose the tassels?

My step stool fits perfectly in the space next to the little buffet.

I'm happy as a clam. I'm keeping my eyes open for a sweet little landscape painting for the half-wall (the soffit with the HVAC ducts). So far, I'm really loving my can shelves. They hold a ton and are just deep enough so that it doesn't feel like anything will get knocked off.

Thanks for looking!!


awesome pantry
clipped on: 07.23.2011 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2011 at 06:22 pm

DIY bathroom renovation cost actuals

posted by: ntruro on 01.16.2011 at 12:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I thought other DIYers might find this actual cost information useful. This was a complete renovation, down to the studs and subfloor. The only outsourced labor was for the installation of the roof cap vent. (Our roof is too steep to walk on.)



Here are a few pictures of the completed bathroom.






clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 09:27 am

My white carrara dream bathroom finally done UPDATED (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: jenskitchen on 01.17.2011 at 08:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So now I can say I'm officially done. Here are a few more shots of the finished product

The glass shower door is installed now:

Someone asked to see the upper cabinet opened. I have 8(!) outlets inside of my tower.

Our contractor built a beautiful cover for our baseboard heating that really blends with the woodwork on the walls


This is the final version of the vanity with the mirror installed.



clipped on: 01.22.2011 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2011 at 08:31 pm

RE: looking for blue/beige bathroom - are you still out there? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sweeby on 09.07.2010 at 02:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Wasn't this one, was it?



clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 09:21 am

Bathroom remodel, before and after photos

posted by: word_doc on 06.20.2010 at 03:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hopefully there will be photos! I've never posted photos on this forum before.

First, I wanted to thank the many contributors who post here. It was here that I ran across a link to what turned out to be my inspiration bathroom photo. I also found so much wisdom and information and advice here, even though I just lurked and never asked any questions about my bathroom problems.

What happened was that we had a slow water leak that went on for a long time before we discovered it. Here's what the bathroom looked like after the mold mitigation crew swept through:

Then I found this inspiration photo from a link posted here a while back:

Our bathroom is obviously laid out a little different and is larger, so I decided to go with two of the vanities instead of just the one. Really I think it would have been fine with just one, but I figured for resale purposes I should go ahead and have two put in. I liked the rectangular mirror in the original but we had an electrical outlet in the way, and I think I ended up liking the oval mirrors better anyway. This is a downstairs bathroom which services two bedrooms and probably sort of doubles as a powder room for guests etc.

I still need to accessorize and put stuff up on the walls but this is what we ended up with, a couple of months later:


clipped on: 07.28.2010 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 07.28.2010 at 08:41 am

flooring update (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: frorule (Guest) on 08.05.2008 at 12:24 pm in Flooring Forum

I had posted pictures up above of my incomplete project. Here are some finished pics. The vinyl "wood" strips are holding up very well. They look more like hardwood than laminate. We have a boxer with sharp nails and she hasn't made any scratches on it yet.

I had mentioned that edges were peeling up in my previous post, but I feel I overexaggerated. It is very hard to tell visually that they aren't sticking to the floor perfectly. I experience no shifting, and they certainly don't omit any odor. Really, the only way you can tell the adhesive isn't completely stuck to the floor is when you're playing ping pong in our game room and the ball sometimes doesn't bounce up high like it should after landing on the flooring.

I found a real oak wood strip at Lowes as my transition between my novalis and carpet. I stained it using minwax "early american" color wood stain and it matches almost perfectly as you can see below. I then varnished it and drilled/screwed it to the concrete floor.

Free Image Hosting at

QuickPost Quickpost this image to Myspace, Digg, Facebook, and others!

Free Image Hosting at

QuickPost Quickpost this image to Myspace, Digg, Facebook, and others!


clipped on: 01.18.2010 at 08:50 am    last updated on: 01.18.2010 at 08:51 am

RE: Need help with shower tile design!!! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lukkiirish on 07.25.2009 at 08:54 am in Bathrooms Forum

We used slate, but still you could do something like we did and I think it would look really pretty. When researching I kept seeing the same 2-3 patterns over and over, and wanted something different. We did what Bill Vincent called a water wall feature. You could do the same thing by cutting the 8x8 tiles into 4x4's skipping the mosaic border and adding a few random deco pieces that I saw are offered in the same tile instead. I'd even mix a few of the colors that the tile comes in for some added pop. The do the bricking on the rest of the walls. Hope that makes sense, here's a picture for a visual. It's still not done so the fixtures aren't installed yet but at least it will give you a visual.



clipped on: 07.25.2009 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 07.25.2009 at 09:59 am

RE: What kind of mirror would you do here? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hudsonleigh on 07.02.2009 at 10:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Beautiful bathroom! You need something classic & lovely, I would say either nicely framed mirrors with trim to match your vanity, or else framed in polished chrome/nickel like your sconces. Something like this would look nice...



clipped on: 07.03.2009 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 07.03.2009 at 10:10 am

New bathroom almost done

posted by: sweeby on 02.28.2009 at 12:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thought I'd post some pictures of our 99%-complete new bath. As you can see, the bedroom beyond isn't done yet, and there's no door yet, but the bath itself is about done - Yay!

Paint - Ellen Kennon Gustavian Grey
Vanity - Medallion in Knotty Alder wood, Walnut stain
Sink & Toilet - Toto Baldwin/Clayton
Faucets - Husdon Reed
Field Tile - Emser Classica in cream
Accent Tile - Walker Zanger Mizu
Floor - Walker Zanger 'White Cloud' marble, honed.
Countertop - Walker Zanger 'White Cloud' marble, polished.
Wall Sconces - Can't remember!
Fixtures - Kohler Bancroft



clipped on: 03.01.2009 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2009 at 09:58 pm

RE: 8 x 12 master bath layout DILEMMA (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: writersblock on 06.19.2009 at 09:20 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's a very clever layout with a double tub and a shower in roughly that much space:

Read the details here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Miami Beach's Condo bathroom remodel


clipped on: 06.20.2009 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 06.20.2009 at 11:46 am

RE: Shower prep confusion (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 06.18.2009 at 12:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The ceiling only needs a vapor barrier if you were doing a steam shower.

Plumber versus tile guy on the preslope and's where it might get a little sticky.

Local codes usually require the plumber to install the membrane and do the 24-hour water test. Everything else is up in the air.

I know plumbers that do preslopes and membranes. I know other plumbers that have the tiler do the preslope, then the plumber returns to do the membrane, then the tiler returns for the rest of the mud and tile work.

So yeah, that part can be a bit of a scheduling problem.

It depends on what is required by your local jurisdiction and what portion of the job the guys you hire are used to doing.

Some local codes allow the work to be done "under the supervision" of another licensed trade.

That means your tiler could install the membrane himself "under the supervision of the plumber". Supervision doesn't necessarily mean the plumber has to be there watching the tiler install the membrane.

The best bet is to ask your tiler and plumber what their habits are. I don't know where you live or what's allowed in your locale.

The big thing is to make sure that the membrane does indeed hold the same water level for 24 hours, and that when it drains, there are no low spots/dips in the membrane/slope that hold water. Residual wetness of the membrane is fine, but there should be no areas of standing or puddled water.

One minor thing. When using a membrane like you are going with, The membrane gets clamped to the drain. In the drain assembly just above the clamped membrane are small secondary "weep holes", they allow any water that is captured by the membrane and flows down the sloped membrane to travel through the weep holes and down the drain.

After the membrane is installed, the tiler should put a small amunt of something...peas stone, or even tile front of the weep holes, then pack mud over the stone or spacers. The goal is to not pack mud into the weep holes, which could clog them. You can see the "stone" against the drain in the illustration below.

The Air Wing Commander on the Eisenhower? Wow, congrats to your family! Yup, I did a stint in the Air Force, flew single-seat for 8 years, got out in '91 after Desert Storm.


clipped on: 06.19.2009 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 06.19.2009 at 08:30 am

Finished bathroom pictures

posted by: shannonaz on 06.11.2009 at 10:11 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Well, our bathroom remodel is finally finished! Thanks for all the inspiration, ideas and suggestions from all of you. I have tried to include lots of comments and details in my photobucket album. Thanks!!
top of her vanity
fixture placement and niches
water closet
Her vanity area

Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom album


clipped on: 06.18.2009 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 06.18.2009 at 08:05 am

RE: Metal Trim? 12x12' on tub surround? Pics Pls! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: countrycottageklutz on 05.20.2009 at 09:39 am in Bathrooms Forum

Ours are 12"x12" slate on the walls, with the Kerdi Rondec metal edging. We wanted it only on the curb instead of a rough edge cut, or a bullnose tile.
Completed shower

Here is a link that might be useful: Kerdi Rondec


clipped on: 05.27.2009 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 05.27.2009 at 08:33 am

RE: light brown paint with no pink undertone (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: scottmel on 02.28.2009 at 10:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

You are singing my tune. 80.00 later on BM paint samples jars...I too wanted NO PEACH! NO PINK - just TAN! I ended up doing 3 walls in my bedroom BM Sierra Hills and the 4th wall - SHERWOOD TAN - same color swatch just up a shade. When the light hits in full day there is barely a difference between these two shades, yet it looks so daring on the swatch. I have cathedral ceilings in my bedroom so not sure if that helps but I LOVE LOVE this combo. I had purchased the shade below it on the swatch and it had a light undertone to it that I feared would/could hit pink/peach so I went darker with Sierra and Sherwood and love it with stark white trim


clipped on: 03.01.2009 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2009 at 01:45 pm

Mrs. Limestone Inspired Bathroom- Photos

posted by: flstella on 01.17.2009 at 10:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here are some photos of our recently completed master bath. Thanks to all for the advice I received in this forum, and especially to Mrs. Limestone for the inspiration. I need some accessories - especially for the tub deck, feel free to make suggestions!

Here's my vanity and the tub. This view was taken from the shower, before the shower glass was installed. There is now an LCD TV above the towel rack, so I can watch the news while I get ready in the morning, and watch from the tub as well. If only they made a waterproof laptop, I would never leave the tub!

This is my husband's (smaller) vanity:

View of the tub as you're standing at the entrance to the bathroom- taken before the shower glass was put in. A glass wall now rests on the left side of the tub:

Here's the shower:

And this shot is looking at my husband's vanity and toilet from inside the shower:

Closer view of marble basketweave floor:

Faucets are all from the Moen Kingsley line
Vanities, sinks, sconces, towel bars & rings, and mirrors all from Restoration Hardware.
Tub is Jacuzzi Allusion. Toilet is Jacuzzi brand also.
Tub deck and vanity tops are Bianco Sevic Marble
Subway tile, pencil liner, and chair rail all from Lowe's.
Floor tile is Carrara Marble Basketweave from Classic Tile NY
Glass shower enclosure from K&K Glass
Wall paint: "Shore" (I think) from Restoration Hardware

Let me know what you think!


clipped on: 01.30.2009 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 01.30.2009 at 08:49 am

RE: Can I see photos of your two vanities? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: igloochic on 01.22.2009 at 07:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You've probably seen my unfinished bathroom before red, but just in case I'll share my two vanities. In advance, I have to tell you that my husband's vanity (the smaller one) is not finished. It needs trim as well as two very large corbels that sort of carry it's weight visually :) Also our doors have to be changed (they're backwards) so I haven't put the knobs on yet (more shells) ya go:

From the bedroom you just see the one big vanity area:

Then, so you see how it all flows, here's the tub area:

Then his vanity:

I think the reason ours works is that even though they're different, they're very silimar. Both have the french backsplash, his is higher than mine on the sides, and mine is broken up, but they're still basically the same curve lines. Our sinks are set the same, at the same height, debth, faucet height etc., and our mirrors are the same. I actually originally had two of the same mirrors but his was larger, thinking he had the room so it would look fine, but it didn't...the balance needed to be maintained to carry this off (IMO).

The general cabinets don't have any symmetry :) And given my vast level of design training...I'm fully qualified to say, symmetry, shwimmetry :oP who needs it! (One quarter of classes then dropped out to take care of the baby LOL) but I got an A for my bathroom on paper heh heh

Keefer would like me to add...please make your sinks big enough for just one:


clipped on: 01.27.2009 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 01.27.2009 at 08:14 am

oops (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 07.03.2008 at 07:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Ooops, that was my wife's sink.

Here's my side of the bathroom:



clipped on: 01.25.2009 at 05:53 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2009 at 05:54 pm

RE: Recommend Wide Plank Installer in Philadelphia Area (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: momof3kids_pa on 01.07.2009 at 06:08 pm in Flooring Forum

YES! Colonial Plank Floors just did ours (in November). They are beautiful floors and they did an amazing install. We have 7", 9", and 11" wide oak planks, top nailed, in a mohaghany finish. Talk to Rick there, he was wonderful. We are really happy with them.

I also included the link to my kitchen remodel so you can see ours, forgive me if I just don't pick out the pics of the floor!

Here is a link that might be useful: My Kitchen Remodel


clipped on: 01.08.2009 at 08:53 am    last updated on: 01.08.2009 at 08:53 am

My stained concrete floors...Pictures!

posted by: mdc08 on 01.05.2009 at 07:34 pm in Flooring Forum

We have been waiting for so long to see our stained concrete. Here are some pics! Enjoy :)
Keeping room off kitchen:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

great room:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

master bdroom

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 08:23 am    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 09:36 pm

RE: Is there an intense yellow that would work (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: msrose on 01.01.2009 at 05:32 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here's a few that I like:

BM Shelburne Buff

Georgiagal's SW Whole Wheat

Newhomebuilder's BM Decatur Buff

Bonnie's SW Restrained Gold

mnhockeymom's BM Honeymoon



clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 07:42 pm

RE: Crown molding on 8' ceilings? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: acountryfarm on 01.01.2009 at 11:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have crown on my 8ft. ceilings as well. Love it Photobucket


Restoration Hardware paint-Butter
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 07:39 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 07:39 pm

For brutuses ~ Kitchen and family room photos

posted by: newhomebuilder on 05.26.2008 at 04:46 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here you go. :)








Fireplace at Christmas:

Shortly after moving in (mantle supports were suppose to overlap arch trim, with mantle sticking out a little. The way the carpenters fashioned the trim and mantle, makes the whole thing look too narrow.)



clipped on: 10.06.2008 at 08:39 am    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 07:24 pm

RE: Hand Scraped Hardwood Floors (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marciab10 on 10.17.2008 at 10:43 am in Flooring Forum

we have handscraped walnut on most of our first floor, we love the look, but we aren't living there yet, I'm hoping it looks as good as it does now a few years from now!

foyer/living room

09-14-2008 kitchen

family room with carpet insert
10-04-2008 family room carpet


clipped on: 10.21.2008 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 10.21.2008 at 08:04 am

RE: New Bruce Laminate Park Avenue 'Makore' (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: brutuses on 07.10.2008 at 06:42 pm in Flooring Forum

Here's a photo of the installed Makore



clipped on: 10.06.2008 at 08:28 am    last updated on: 10.06.2008 at 08:28 am

RE: Any regrets choosing dark hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #75)

posted by: mommyto4boys on 09.10.2008 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lynn2006-Thanks for the nice comments on the kitchen. I hesitated to share pictures until this week as things are still unfinished & I see all the dream kitchens here & start thinking (coulda' shoulda'). I hate to even type the floor brand here (BELLAWOOD) as some here have said to NOT buy from them. We tested about 5 different Brazillian Cherry floors at home (samples that is). We pounded on them with match box cars, etc and found dinks and scratches to really show less on this brand. I love the way it looks, but yes dust and dirst shows & you need too be wiliing to clean that or live with it:) It is the 5" planks and I'm happy with that choice. The part we are not thrilled about is some unevenness of the floor after installation. The installer says it was much worse than other brands & he wasted more planks than usual to try to keep it even. He wanted us to buy from "his" supplier. My neighbor has a different brand prefinished floor and it isn't perfectly smooth either. I'm thinking it is more just what you get when it isn't sight sanded/finished. Though others may weigh in on this and say they have prefinished and it is perfect. Though I do believe you get a better poly finish when factory applied and that is what we were really looking for. Someday we can refinish the floors as YES they are solid wood.

And we love our fridge! It is a GE profile & has so much space. I liked it because I did not want an exterior/door water dispenser and I didn't want the top hinges to show (dh thinks I'm crazy).

Hope this helps and yes we just had boy #5!


clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 09:00 am

RE: Any regrets choosing dark hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #72)

posted by: mommyto4boys on 09.10.2008 at 03:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Photobucket Image Hosting

Kitchen about 85% complete...
That's my Brazillian Cherry & I would do it again. Yes it does show dirt & dust, but I'm learning to care for it. I'll deal with it because I like the look. Ours doesn't show scratches. We gave many samples our "test" before purchasing. We now have 5 boys and a large dog. They take their shoes off in the mudroom on the slate tile. I vacumn the carpet & the wood with our dyson about 4 times per wook. Once a week I use a spray cleaner & cloth mop. I have a shark (steam)cleaner & use it around the kitchen/table area if needed. Would use that more, but still worried about it on the wood. If you love the look go for it, unless you want it to look perfect all the time.


clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 08:58 am

RE: Any regrets choosing dark hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: ging9 on 07.10.2008 at 07:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a med-dark wood floors. They are handscraped and lightly distressed and I love them. They also have a low sheen. I have white cabinets and wanted the darker floors. We also replaced the carpet that was in the family room adjacent to the kitchen and down the hall. I know everyone keeps stating how difficult they are to keep clean, but i hated the carpet for showing all the ground in dirt and I would rather have it on my swiffer than on my floors and not know it. We did have to go engineered since the family room is on concrete, but I love them anyways.


clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 08:56 am

RE: Any regrets choosing dark hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: chinchette on 07.02.2008 at 05:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

My BC floors. They don't dent or show scratches. I don't know why I'm advocating them so much- still not sure about the impact on the environment. But I tell you- they always look great, and anyone could drop by after a week of not cleaning them. See that little monster walking out of the kitchen? He has sharp claws- no worries. And look at his older brother, to my left. He likes to walk around barefoot with sweaty feet.

We are checking our feedback on the Garden Web


clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 08:53 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 08:53 am

RE: Any regrets choosing dark hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 07.02.2008 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have Chilean Cherry, 7" plank low luster engineered wood. LOVE it!

The dog constantly skates across it, dropping hair of course along the way. We have not seen scratches of any kind. A quick swipe of the Bona Kemi mop and were good to go.

We also have a Roomba (not a Scooba) that we let loose on the floor. It does a great job on both wood flooring and carpet. We love the little guy.

Having lots of area rugs helps to divert your eyes from the dust bunnies that seem to grow on dark floors.

Also ... When I walk into the house, I take my glasses off and the whole house looks perfectly clean. :-)

The flooring is a bit darker than what shows in the photo. I'm taking the picture from an open doorway letting in lots of natural light.

View of new flooring from front door



clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 08:51 am

RE: Water Clear Glass Mosaic Tile-Photo! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: gr8smiles on 07.05.2008 at 12:51 am in Bathrooms Forum

We used the Oceanside Clear in our bath and part of our shower. It was definitely one of our splurges. It surrounds our tub, is on he wall behind the vanities, and is on the wall above the tub...where my lcd flat-sceen will go.


clipped on: 09.16.2008 at 08:22 am    last updated on: 09.16.2008 at 08:22 am

RE: I'm desparate for shower construction help, please! (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: bill_vincent on 09.11.2008 at 11:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

That's exactly how I do all mine, only I keep an extra drain with me the same size as most of the drains I cut in, and I use that, instead, as a template. Other than that. the way I described is how I do my drains.





clipped on: 09.16.2008 at 07:36 am    last updated on: 09.16.2008 at 07:37 am

RE: I'm desparate for shower construction help, please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 06.03.2008 at 06:00 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So, in the meantime, the contractors already poured the concrete shower pan and slapped some cement board around the shower, but only 6 1/2 feet up. The rest of the walls in greenboard and the ceiling in regular drywall. (note this is a walk in shower).

Technically speaking, that's all that's required-- where there's direct contact with water spray. I've never seen a contractor take it quite this literally, but he's within spec.

My husband noticed that they used regular drywall screws in the entire shower.

Although the recommendation from TCNA is for noncorrosive screws, I don't believe it's a requirement. It IS, a good idea, though.

I also noticed that they put roofing paper on top of the studs before putting up the cement board and green board and have a sinking feeling that they did not put any other moisture barrier (poly-vinyl?).

That's fine-- it's either one or the other, but not both.

If we can't go with Kerdi (which I believe is too late any way since the drain is in and the shower pan is installed). Should we go with Reguarding?

You're right-- it IS too late at this point. However, there's no need for Redgard. You already have the vapor barrier behind the cement board, so there's no need to waterproof it, as well. Matter of fact, with the tar paper in back of it, it would actually be detrimental to Redgard it.

I also have a few tile laying questions, but I'll create another post for that..

No need-- it's actually better if you keep all your questions to this thread-- much easier to go back and see what's been asked and answered at any given point. :-)


clipped on: 09.16.2008 at 07:33 am    last updated on: 09.16.2008 at 07:33 am

RE: recommended sizes for doorless shower and vanity? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: callaloo on 08.18.2008 at 03:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

FWIW, the dimensions of my remodeled master bath, as well as the components of it, are almost exactly the same as yours (perhaps a bit smaller, as the bathroom is about 8.5 x 10.5). This was existing construction, and we didn't want to change the footprint.

Our doorless shower (shown below, both before and after the glass was installed) is appoximately 4x4, with an additional bump (another foot) for the bench area. Unless someone were to go a little crazy with the handheld shower, there is minimal splashing outside of the shower itself. Our shower does have a curb.



Our vanity is 8 feet long. Having the storage cabinet in the middle breaks up the length visually, and it is by no means too long.



Sorry I don't have better photos. The relatively small space makes it tough to get a better view.


clipped on: 08.20.2008 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2008 at 11:02 pm

Tiny Master Bath Remodel Pics

posted by: biancap on 10.30.2007 at 12:35 am in Bathrooms Forum

We recently finished remodeling our tiny master bathroom. My photography skills or lack of them don't do the bathroom justice. This was a challening project because the bathroom is really small but I totally love it now.

Kohler Purist Fixtures
Shower Wall Tiles: 18x18 Walker Zanger Groove Canvas ceramic
Accent Tiles: 4x2 and 2x2Lunada Bay Glass Tile Clear Silk & Pearl
Shower Floor: 2x2 Porcelein tile - Keraban?
Floor: 24X24 Limestone
Vanity & Linen Cabinet - custom made

Finished Bathroom

Shower Wall Tile

Here is a link that might be useful: More Pics


clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 08:35 am    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 08:35 am

Bath remodel pics

posted by: sch9171 on 07.27.2008 at 08:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our bathroom remodel (from hell) is finally basically done. I posted before and after photos on my blog.

Here are a couple of the "after" photos.

Also, FWIW, here is my original thread about the remodel.


shower remodel
clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 08:28 am    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 08:28 am

RE: Ipe Progress Pics (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: riles_j on 07.18.2008 at 02:07 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

Well it is coming along still. Albeit it has slowed down the last several weeks as we took a break and enjoyed our deck a little, had a little 4th of July party, installed a new kegerator, etc.

We have installed the gate, some more railing, and are in the process of doing stairs (lots of stairs), and we are installing end-grain trim everywhere. I really like the look of that trim as it really finishes things off (thanks for the tip on that John!)

The railing we chose does have 2x4 sub rails on end and as John said they are very stiff and I don't see a problem there. I was a little worried about using the 1x6 on the cap rail with my rail design, but it was a necessary sacrifice due to budget and my only local options are 1x6 or 2x4, so I went with the 1x6. To be honest I am very happy with the railing so far. It seems very stiff, and even the though the cap isn't supported along the full length like in other styles of railing it does not seem be twisting, or moving much at all (so far). That Ipe is pretty stable. I might see a little bowing between posts as it ages, and the cap does have a little movement at mid-span, but it is not very noticable unless you really lean on it hard. Now granted, I wouldn't want people sitting on it or anything. I considered centering a small piece of my ipe 4x4 under the sub and between the cap rail and the top/subrail, but to be honest I will probably forgo that.

Here a few pics that show a little more progress.

Thanks for all the compliments.






clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 08:10 am    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 08:10 am

RE: Pebble stone shower floor (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: minnt on 02.23.2008 at 01:25 am in Bathrooms Forum

Here is my river rock bathroom floor. My rock is sliced, so it is as flat as tile. I tried walking on the more rounded ones and it felt too harsh.


clipped on: 07.20.2008 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 07.20.2008 at 10:39 am

RE: Pebble stone shower floor (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: annkathryn on 02.23.2008 at 06:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Wow, minnt, your stone "steam" is totally cool. Did you do this yourself? I love it! It reminds me of something I saw at a tile store that was similar:

I also clipped this picture from an online album, I'm not sure where (it's not mine):


clipped on: 07.20.2008 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 07.20.2008 at 10:39 am

RE: Travertine Questions, Please--and Jump In Bill! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.18.2008 at 08:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

1. What is the best sealer?

Aquamix Sealers Choice Gold
Miracle 511 Impregnator
Stone Tech Impregnator Pro

2. If you have travertine, are you glad you did it, and would you use it again?

I don't have any in my place right now, but I wouldn't have a problem using it. The thing I don't think I WOULD do is use it for the shower floor. Polished and honed would be too slippery, and I wouldn't want tumbled stone for my shower floor.

3. Any non-toxic sealers?

None that you can drink or eat off of.

4. Any non-toxic daily cleaners?

I gave you a list of sealers to use. As for cleaners, you might check those same companies for cleaners that are ph neutral and made specifically for cleaning stone.

5. What is the best way to keep it looking its best?

Keep it sealed and clean!


clipped on: 07.20.2008 at 10:29 am    last updated on: 07.20.2008 at 10:30 am

RE: What is the size of your shower (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: terriks on 07.13.2008 at 11:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is the florplan of my doorless shower. Its overall dimensions are about 7 feet by 5 feet



clipped on: 07.14.2008 at 06:33 am    last updated on: 07.14.2008 at 06:33 am

RE: What is the size of your shower (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: igloochic on 07.12.2008 at 12:44 am in Bathrooms Forum

I removed a 32x32 shower LOL

Our new shower is 4x5 on the outside, and about ohhhh 3.6x 4.75 ish on the inside. No it's not enough room for a shower without a door, but it's a cozy nook with room for a small seat. It will be enclosed with frameless glass and has a light inside it (because it's one in dark tile). The half wall is to provide a toilet nook not visable to the occupant of the shower heh heh





clipped on: 07.13.2008 at 06:01 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2008 at 06:01 pm

RE: solid surface floor and tiled walls?? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: weedyacres on 07.08.2008 at 08:20 am in Bathrooms Forum

Here's a completely Swanstone shower:

And a shower with Onyx base and tile walls:


clipped on: 07.13.2008 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2008 at 02:43 pm

RE: Buying online (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kevin1727 on 05.29.2008 at 09:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Danze faucets from danzefaucetwarehouse and costco.
Toto toilets from faucetdirect.
Decolav sink from everyfaucet.
hide-away ironing center from wamhomecenter.
So far all has been great AND fast AND less expensive.
sconces from allmodernlighting (in process).
No tax and most were free shipping. They have all been less trouble than the contractor.


online stores
clipped on: 05.30.2008 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2008 at 03:54 pm

RE: how do I get out a stain in granite? (strawberry) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sandykay on 07.09.2006 at 06:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have found this guy to be an excellent resource. I plan on trying his products for our newly installed travertine floor.
I hope it helps.

No-nonsense Guidelines to Stain Removal
We all know what a stain is, right? Or do we
Lets start by saying that a stain is a discoloration. So far, so good.
The fact is, however, that not all discolorations are stains. Lets take, for example, a piece of fabric. Fabric is typically absorbent; therefore if we spill some liquid onto it, the material will absorb it. If its only water, well have a temporary stain. In fact, once it dries the fabric will go back to its original color (plus, maybe, some mineral deposit can we can just brush away), but if we spill some coffee, or cooking oil on it we will make a stain, because the fabric will absorb the staining agent and change its color in a permanent way, unless we do something to remove the agent from the fabric.
On the other hand, if we spill some bleach on the same fabric we will still have a discoloration, but it can hardly be defined as a stain, because its actually a permanent damage to the die that originally made the color of the fabric.
When it comes to natural stone we are, once again, dealing with stains and 'stains.'
All stones are, more or less, absorbent. One may say that diamonds, or any other gemstones are not absorbent. Thats right, but a gemstone is not actually a stone: its in fact made of one crystal of one single mineral. All other (less noble) stones are the composition of many crystals, either of the same mineral, or of different minerals bonded together. The 'space' in between these molecules of minerals is mostly what determines the porosity of a stone. That said, whats next is the fact that the porosity of stones varies greatly, and so does, of course, their absorbency. Some of them are extremely dense; therefore their porosity is minimal. What this translates into is the fact that the absorbency of such types of stone is so marginal that by all practical intents and purposes can be considered irrelevant. Some other stones present a medium porosity, and some other ones at the very end of the spectrum are extremely porous. Because of their inherent porosity, many a stone will absorb liquids, and if such liquids are staining agents, a true stain will occur. Consequently
A true stain is a discoloration of the stone produced by a staining agent that was actually absorbed by the stone.
A 'stain' is something else that has nothing to do with the porosity (absorbency) of the stone: It has instead to do with its natural chemical makeup. It is still a discoloration, but like with the example of the fabric and the bleach above its actual damage to the stone surface. All those 'stains' that look like 'water spots', or 'water rings,' are actually marks of corrosion (etches) created by some chemically active liquid (mostly but not necessarily limited to acids) which had a chance to come in contact with a stone that turned out to be sensitive to harsh chemicals. All Calcite-based stones such as marble, limestone, onyx, travertine, etc. are sensitive to acids; therefore they will etch readily (within a few seconds). Many a slate, too, will etch, and so will a few 'granites' that, instead of being a 100% silicate rock, are mixed with a certain percentage of calcite.
Now lets see what to do to remove stains and 'stains.'

How to Remove a Stain Poulticing Method.

Definition of a Poultice.
Whats a poultice? It is the combination of a very absorbent medium (it must be more absorbent than the stone) mixed with a chemical, which is to be selected in accordance with the type of stain to be removed. The concept is to re-absorb the stain out of the stone. The chemical will attack the stain inside the stone, and the absorbent agent will pull them both out together.
Its intuitive that while the absorbent agent can be the same all the time, regardless of the nature of the stain to be removed, the chemical will be different, in accordance with the nature of the staining agent, since it will have to interact with it.
The absorbent part of a poultice could be (in order of the writers preference), talc powder (Baby powder), paper-towel ('Bounty' or 'Viva' are the best), and diatomaceous earth (the white stuff inside your swimming pool filter) for larger projects.
Consumers can also find so-called 'professional poulticing kits' at a local tile and marble retailer. It is the opinion of this writer that they are nothing but a marketing gimmick. In fact, very few true professionals ever uses any of them! Not only are they expensive, but more importantly, they are limited to removing only the type of stains the kits chemical agent is designed for. Everybody with no experience whatsoever can make their own homemade poultice, which will be just as good as the 'professional kits' (if not better!) Moreover, the consumer will purchase the (easy-to-find) chemicals that will be deemed right for the task at end.
As we said before, the chemical must be selected in accordance with the nature of the staining agent. There are five major classifications of stains:
Organic stains (i.e. coffee, tea, coloring agents of dark sodas and other drinks, gravy, mustard, etc.)
Inorganic stains (i.e. ink, color dies, dirt water spilling over from flower and plant pot, etc.)
Oily stains (i.e. any type of vegetable oil, certain mineral oils motor oil, butter, margarine, melted animal fat, etc.)
Biological stains (i.e. mildew, mold, etc.)
Metal stains (i.e. rust, copper, etc.)
The chemical of choice for both Organic and Inorganic stains is Hydrogen Peroxide (30/40 volumes, the clear type available at your local beauty salon. The one from the drugstore is too weak, at 3.5 volumes). Sometime, in the case of ink, Denatured Alcohol (or rubbing alcohol) may turn out to be more effective.
For Oily stains our favorite is Acetone, which is available at any hardware or paint store. (Forget your nail polish remover: some of them contain other chemicals, and some other ones contain no acetone whatever.)
For Biological stains, one can try using regular household bleach, but we recommend our MB-9. It represents a much more complete and effective formulation for these kinds of stains.
For Metal stains, our favorite is a white powder (to be melted in water), which is available at fine hardware stores all over the country under the trade name of 'Iron-out.'

How to Prepare a Poultice and Use It to Remove Stains.
Now that we have all our ingredients, we can prepare the right concoction to remove the stain at hand.
If youve chosen talc powder (baby powder) as your absorbent medium,
You mix it using a metal spatula or spoon in a glass or stainless steel bowl, together with the chemical, to form a paste just a tad thinner than peanut butter (thin enough, but not running.) Now you have made your poultice.
If youre attempting to remove a metal (rust) stain, first you melt the 'Iron-out' with water according with the directions written on the container and then you mix it with an equal amount of talc powder, adding water if it turns out to be too thick, or talc if its too 'runny'.
Apply the poultice onto the stain, going approximately ' over it all around, keeping it as thick as possible (at least '.)
Cover the poultice with plastic wrap, and tape it down using masking tape.
Leave the whole thing alone for at least 24 hours, and then remove the plastic wrap.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly! It may take from a couple of hours to a couple of days or better, depending on the chemical. Do NOT peek! This is the phase during which the absorbing agent is re-absorbing the chemical that was forced into the stone, together (hopefully!) with the staining agent, and you do NOT want to interrupt that process!
Once the poultice is completely dry, scrape it off the surface of the stone with a plastic spatula, clean the area with a little squirt of our MB-5 Marble, Granite & More Spray Cleaner, then wipe it dry with a clean rag or a sheet of paper-towel.
If the stain is gone, your mission is over! If some of it is still there, repeat the whole procedure (especially in the case of oily stains, it may take up to 4 or 5 attempts!). If it didnt move at all, either you made a mistake while evaluating the nature of the stain (and consequently used the wrong chemical), or the stain is too old and will not come out, or it was not a stain, but it was a 'stain' instead.
If you decide to use paper-towel instead of talc powder, make a 'pillow' with it (8 or 10 fold thick) a little wider than the stain, soak it with the chemical to a point thats wet through but not dripping, apply it on the stain and tap it with your gloved fingertips to insure full contact with the surface of the stone. Then you take it from the point 3 above.

How to Remove a 'Stain'.
We already established what a 'stain' is. Its obvious that if you keep thinking 'stain' just because those 'weird things' look like stains (water spots, or rings), youre misleading your thoughts, because you would automatically research in the database that you have in between your ears for a solution pertinent to stain removal that, of course, would turn out to be totally useless. Now the question is: 'How do I remove a chemical etch-mark, which, as seen, is not a stain but a surface damage?'
You dont!
In fact an etch mark can be effectively compared to, and defined as, a shallow chemical scratch. A scratch is something missing (a groove), and nobody can remove something missing. It would be like trying to remove a hole from a doughnut! The only thing one can do is to eat the doughnut, and the hole is gone! Same thing with a scratch: One must actually remove whatever is around the groove, down to the depth of the deepest point of the scratch.
Were actually facing a full-fledged though small in size stone restoration project!
Can you, average Mr. or Mrs. Homeowner handle the task?
The answer is: Maybe.
If it is polished marble or travertine or Onyx, then theres hope. If it is hone-finished marble or travertine, or hone-finished slate (like a chalk-board), or mixed 'granite', then youd better hire a professional stone refinisher. If its a cleft-finished slate (rippled on its surface), than nobody can actually do anything about it, other than attempting to apply a good quality stone color enhancer, such as our MB-6 Stone Color Enhancer.
Concentrating now on the case of polished marble or limestone or travertine or onyx, if the etch is severe (deep to the point that it looks and feels rough), then you do need a professional stone refinisher. But if the etch is light (the depth is undetectable by the naked eye, and it looks and feels smooth), then there are a few polishing creams or powders, available to the do-it-yourselfer that are user-friendly enough to be handled by just about everybody. Just follow the directions on the container. It is a fact that, to the best of our knowledge, weve been the first company to market one such a product, MB-11 Polishing Compound for Marble (since 1992. Its latest version is a powder) that actually works quite well without requiring the experience of a pro and no specific tools, other than a piece of terrycloth.
Finally, we may have a combination of a stain with a 'stain'. For example, if some red wine is spilled on an absorbent polished limestone, then the acidity of the wine (Acetic acid) will etch (acid burn) the surface on contact, while the dark color of the wine will stain the stone by being absorbed by it. In such a case, first you remove the stain by poulticing (Hydrogen Peroxide), and then you repair the 'stain' by refinishing the surface.

Here is a link that might be useful: Maurizio's Stain Removal Guide


clipped on: 07.23.2006 at 09:15 am    last updated on: 07.23.2006 at 09:15 am

RE: one week in... and halfway done! (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: girlwithaspirin on 06.19.2006 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for making me smile, guys. :)

nys, I used the advice of everyone here before starting.

1) Clean with soap and water.
2) Lightly sand, only where needed. (I'm lazy, but the varnish had built up in some places.)
3) Prime with a thin coat of Zinsser Bullseye 123 Deep Base, tinted to match paint color. Let dry for a few hours.
4) Paint with a thin coat of Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd. Do cabinet backs first! Don't paint bottom or top edges. Let dry overnight.
5) Paint fronts. Again, let dry overnight.
6) Hang cabinets. Carefully.
7) Paint bottom/top edges and do any touch-up.
8) Leave them open for as long as you can stand it. This stuff takes forever to cure.

I didn't do two full coats of paint like many people suggested. For one, the Satin Impervo covers amazingly. The dark color helped -- I imagine a light color would require more coats. But also, the thinner the paint, the more it looks like stain. If you glop it on, which I accidentally did in some places, it doesn't look as much like a pro job.

I imagine I'll be touching up for the next few months, though. Whenever the sun hits somewhere new, I notice an area that's a little too thin.


painting kitchen cabinets
clipped on: 07.04.2006 at 09:18 am    last updated on: 07.04.2006 at 09:18 am