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RE: duct size for vent hood (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: akchicago on 07.04.2009 at 07:04 pm in Appliances Forum

No disrespect, but I disagree with Davidro1. And there have been many threads on duct size on this forum, but they may have fallen off by now. IMHO, it is crucial to have a duct that is 8" or 10", and not 6". I speak from experience. I have a 6" duct, and it is the ONE disappointment in my kitchen reno. The ONE thing I wish I could change. Unlike you though, I did not have the luxury to install ductwork for my exhaust; I was locked into what was already there, which is 6" size. If you are lucky enough to be able to choose, get the 8" (many on this forum have 10", but 8" will be fine). Don't let your contractor push you around. Really, this is important. Ask yourself--what difference does it make to him if I get an 8" duct? Well, it'll probably be a bit more work for him to squeeze in an 8" duct rather than an easy-to-slide-in 6", so that may be why he's telling you 6" will be fine. It's YOUR kitchen that you'll have to cook in for years, long after he's gone and forgotten. Tell him you want the 8" duct installed, no debate.

You have already hit on one reason not to get a 6"--it will severely limit your choices in hoods. Meanwhile, if you have an 8" duct, your choices will be wide and varied at all different price points, designs, brand names.

A second reason for a larger duct is efficiency. A 6" duct simply won't be large enough to allow for cfms above 300-450. 300-450 may be adequate, but on those days when you are frying hamburger or fish, you'll wish for more. Believe me, I know. As to overkill--I would rather have high cfms that I may only use once in a while, with the flexibility of lower settings for the rest of the time, than to be permanently hampered by low cfms due to a 6" duct size.

Per the Appliances Forum FAQ on Vent Hoods: "The rule-of-thumb is 10CFM per 1000BTU of burner capacity. Thus, for a 60K-BTU cooktop (4 x 15K), you should have a 600CFM hood. Since you rarely, if ever, have all burners on full at once, you have excess capacity that can be used when you really need it. Most hoods have variable-speed controls, which allow you to choose the airflow---and noise level---appropriate to the task."

Another reason for a larger duct is noise level. When you are pushing air through a narrower space, it will be more noisy than pushing the same air through a wider space. Of course, the length of your duct run and the number of bends will also affect noise level, but 6" will guarantee a higher noise level than 8".

Although duct size has been discussed a lot on this forum, I have never once seen a thread saying "AW SHOOT, I WISH I'd installed a smaller duct!" On the contrary, we see the opposite sentiment, "If only I had a larger duct..."


6 inch vent is limiting.
The rule-of-thumb is 10CFM per 1000BTU of burner capacity
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:58 pm

RE: Dual Fuel vs Gas Slide In Range (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: stomsf on 07.08.2009 at 12:59 pm in Appliances Forum

Not a stupid question at all. A sealed burner basically is a ring of fire around the burner. Unfortunately a larger output sealed burner means a larger circumference circle, which means there's less heat in the center.

So if you're heating a wok on a large sealed burner, your heat is focused on the ring all around the center of the wok. The best heat for a wok and stir fry is concentrated heat in the center so the ingredients can cook quickly in the center and be moved about the outsides where it's not as hot to cool or to cook with less intense heat.

A sealed burner (like on our existing Frigidaire Gallery) won't let you get heat into the center except for by conduction. The Electrolux and Jenn-Air have sealed burners but have a stacked/multi-burner design that has a small secondary burner that ignites in the center. On the Electrolux website you can watch a video of the burner and see what I mean.

Good luck!


Sealed Burner vs Open Burner
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:55 pm

RE: Dual Fuel vs Gas Slide In Range (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: haus_proud on 07.06.2009 at 11:37 am in Appliances Forum

Consumer Reports says there is no advantage to dual fuel. It used to be that electric ovens were a lot more accurate than gas. That's not true any more because gas ovens are now electronically controlled are are as accurate as electric. We bought a Bosch gas range about 2 years ago after living with electric for more years than we can count. We switched to gas because we wanted to be able to use the cooktops when there a power failure -- in North Carolina they happen sometimes when there's an ice storm. You can use the gas tops when there is no power -- just light with a match. But you cannot use the oven because it is electronically controlled. But at least you can boil water, thaw out something in the freezer or whatever. The Boaxh gas ranges have self-cleaning ovens with convection option, which is nice when you want to roast something -- it comes out nice is crispy. And the broiler is terrific. And you close the over door when you broil -- you do not leave is ajar like in electric.

We really like the Bosch. When our installer looked at the oven gas jets he said, "Wow. I never saw that before except in a commercial oven."

There are other good brands besides Bosch. But don't be afraid to go all gas.


No advantage to dual fuel over gas now.
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:54 pm

RE: Cross Post: Kobe and Imperial Hoods and Venting Question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: guadalupe on 07.09.2009 at 10:35 am in Appliances Forum

I have a BlueStar range and a Kobe hood and the Kobe hood is fantastic, 800 cfm verylow noise and very effective venting thru 3 1/4 x 10. I have had no problems with the hood and I know others with the hood who also love the hood.


Kobe Hood
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:53 pm

RE: Electrolux slide-in range installation problem- anyone else? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lschlossberg on 07.15.2009 at 07:59 pm in Appliances Forum

Same problem. Just had counters put in yesterday. Went to lower my new stove (2 weeks old) and it won't lower any further. Installers never told me it was at the lowest setting. The were supposed to keep it high off of my old counters so that we could install new counters and then lower the stove. My counters are at 35 1/4 " because I have a floor that was installed over existing flooring. I didn't know this until today. The appliance place told me today that the stove won't go any lower. I can't take feet off or the bottom drawer won't open and it still wouldn't lower it enough. It sits 3/4" higher than the counters. This looks ridiculous since it sits so high off of the counter. I would never have bought this stove. I thought of everything before the new counters came. I had to level my dishwasher and put flooring under it since the floor was built around it. I've done so much to prepare for the counters. I am disgusted. The appliance store recommended that I have a U shaped granite filler cut to go around the sides and back so it will sit flush to something. This U shaped piece would sit on top of my new counter top. I think it is going to look ridiculous. I have my counter top company looking into some ideas. Any other thoughts?


Slide in Range vs Counter height issue
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:50 pm

RE: Vent-a-Hood versus Independent (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: keitel on 07.16.2009 at 08:15 am in Appliances Forum

You'll find plenty of threads about VAH on this site. I've got a 600 cfm, 24" deep VAH that works, but doesn't thrill me. Contrary to what others will tell you, I find it incredibly loud on low (much too loud to have a normal conversation around it) but I have never overwelmed it no matter how hard I try. It does get very greasy. I admit I have a sensitive nose, but for instance, I have to break it down and clean it after each and every stir-fry because the kitchen just smells like grease. I find it pretty interesting when I do this: the dark, dark grease that collects in the blower box smells very strongly of garlic and onions. It's nice to know it's going somewhere other than my walls. I know nothing about Independent but I can assure you, whenever this thing dies I won't be replacing it with a VAH.


Vent-a-Hood smells, and is loud on low
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:48 pm

RE: Recent GE Cafe Range experience or do we go elsewhere? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: darboydoughboy on 07.22.2009 at 01:12 am in Appliances Forum

Be aware there is a cooling fan (not the convection fan) that is supposed to turn on at 450 degrees. It sounds like a microwave fan on low speed. Can be annoying. My left front burner will not light most times. Construction quality is poor. And yes, you will work to keep that stainless steel clean. Repair man has been here a couple times already. One call was the cooling fan. It did not work and the oven shut itself down in the self-clean mode. Got too hot.


GE Cafe Range Cooling Fan Noise
clipped on: 07.22.2009 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2009 at 10:45 pm