Clippings by cgarai

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RE: Anyone installed their range hood higher than recommended? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kaseki on 02.26.2013 at 10:49 am in Appliances Forum

My island hood is 34 inches above the cooktop surface. Size that matters is the internal aperture, which is 27 inches front to back. This is centered over the boundary of the hob diameters. Width is the largest that Wolf supplied at the time, and covers with some overlap both an induction wok hob as well as a 36-inch wide induction cooktop. Fan is nominally 1500 cfm. Actual flow at minimum house negative pressure (i.e., with MUA) should be around 900 cfm due to baffle, transition, and duct losses vs. the fan curve. Capture is nearly complete in most cases.

When the aperture is moved up to seven feet above the floor, a hood is in the commercial installation category, and flow rate per square foot of aperture, as well as overhang beyond the cooktop zone, should also be commensurate with commercial practices. Twenty inches of pan edge overlap on each of the four sides is recommended for island configurations. (More exactly, the angle between the hood aperture edge and the nearest pan edge should be at least 22.5 degrees to vertical.) With a wall backing, and side cabinets, reduction is possible in those directions. The Greenheck reference material at my Clippings can provide more perspective, and the thermal plumes analysis papers more details.

For baffled hoods, aperture area (sq. ft.) times 1.5 ft/s times 60 s/min is the lowest air flow full-power achievable capability that I would recommend. This assumes that the baffles provide an effective factor of two air entrainment velocity enhancement to the impinging effluent. (The effluent rises from the pan at about 3 ft/s.)



clipped on: 05.26.2013 at 04:01 am    last updated on: 05.26.2013 at 04:01 am

RE: Please post pics of your wood countertop (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: breezygirl on 02.02.2012 at 12:53 am in Kitchens Forum

I should have mentioned that mine is finished with Osmo Polyx Oil, a food-safe, green product. It looks as if it doesn't have a finish on it. I love its softly glowing, natural look. I can easily apply it to a spot or two that might need an extra bit of Osmo, like around the sink where I wipe a lot, in only a few minutes without having to do the whole top. Just wipe on, wipe off.


clipped on: 11.20.2012 at 03:03 am    last updated on: 11.20.2012 at 03:03 am

RE: Please post pics of your wood countertop (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: maryannboffey on 03.25.2012 at 11:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Black Walnut,, 4x8 Contractor's DIY (bare wood). Cut and routed by our contrator, then I did Waterlox finish. Love it.





clipped on: 11.20.2012 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 11.20.2012 at 03:03 am

Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish details

posted by: petestein1 on 09.14.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Almost two years ago I contributed to some posts about using my island top as a cutting board and got some helpful advice. I thought I'd post an update.

As part of a full renovation our kitchen island got a nice beefy top made of black walnut. Even though everyone thought I was nut, I said I wanted to use part of it as a cutting board. After all, it's a kitchen, not a museum. With that in mind, I had to come up with a food-safe finish for it. What I chose, based on advice here, was nothing more than a hand-rubbed application of mineral oil and bees wax.

I'm happy to report that it's been over a year and everything's gone great. First, the island looks great. Everyone comments on it the moment they see it.

Second, using it as a cutting board has worked out quite well. The wood is more than hard enough to stand up to my knives. Not having to get out a cutting board, and then keep all my chopped whatever on the cutting board as I work... it makes life so much easier. For those who told me I needed to do something akin to butcher-block -- making the island top out of end-grain... well, you were incorrect. End-grain would have been harder no doubt but the walnut is more than hard enough. And worst case? I break out a power sander and 1/64" of an inch later my island would be in immaculate condition.

No doubt, the knife leaves marks in the wood. But the wood is "busy" enough that you can only see them if you go looking for them and your eye is within 12" or so of the counter (photos below).

Oh, for those worried about food safety, I still don't get raw meat on the counter (though I think it would be fine as long as I cleaned up with soap and water afterwards). And we don't chop anything "stinky" like garlic or onion though we do work with other aromatics like rosemary and thyme. 15 months later and the counter has no odor of any kind.

Third, the finish. I was worried about this but in the end it's been fine. I melted some furniture-grade beeswax on the stove, added mineral oil (about 2 parts oil to 1 part wax) and let is solidify into a semi-hard paste. I rub it in, let it stand (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes overnight), and then I buff it out.

At first I was doing this every few weeks but now I only do it every 2 months or so. I could probably stand to do it a bit more often in the quadrant I use as a cutting board, but, well, you know, life gets in the way.

For the first 6 months or so if you left a wet glass on the counter for more than a few hours we were getting drink rings. I had to lightly sand those out and rewax. But now we seem to have a deep enough coating that we haven't had a drink ring -- or any mark of any kind -- for over 6 months.

How do I clean it? A soapy sponge. Simple as that.

Ready for photos? Ok, here's the island as whole:

Take a good look at the image above. Can you see where I've prepared over 100 meals? You know -- the section where I've sliced up thousands of peppers and cucumbers and apples and peaches and melons and tomatoes and potatoes and celery and carrots and parsnips, etc, etc?

Okay, the "cutting board" area is the left side of the island, from the bottom of the photo to the sink. That 25% of the island is the designated "cutting board" section.

Yes, the board closest to the left of the photo has a lot of lines in it, but those aren't knife marks, that's "tiger-striping" in the wood -- I chose that board for there on purpose in case I needed camouflage for knife marks.

Ok, ready for a close-up of the knife marks? This photo was taken from about 8 inches away:

...looks like a cutting board, doesn't it? ;-)

So what problems do I have? Well, we have a lot of friends and cook a lot of meals together, People like to help. Once they get past the "What??! I can cut right on the counter???!?" moment I have two problems.

First, it's hard to keep them in the designated 25% that I use as a cutting board. Yes, the knife marks are subtle enough that they could probably work anywhere but I still haven't let go.

Second, these same people occasionally use a bread knife that can take some comparatively pretty big chunks out of the top. This has only happened once or twice, and with a coat of wax the marks pretty much disappear. But still, it's stressful.

Bottom line? I strongly encourage people to explore using an island top as cutting board. Second, a food-safe finish is easy! Third, I love my new kitchen. :-)


clipped on: 11.19.2012 at 07:55 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2012 at 08:08 pm

RE: Please post pics of your wood countertop (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.31.2012 at 02:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's my black walnut plank island top with undermount sink and runnels.




clipped on: 11.19.2012 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2012 at 08:06 pm