Clippings by cflaherty

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

How to Seal Your Stone

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:25 am in Kitchens Forum

NOTE: This is only for stones that need sealing. If your stone does not need sealing, do NOT seal! Sealing stones that do not need it can cause problems later with haze, streaking, ghost etching, etc. If applied inappropriately, the sealer will have to be manually removed to return the stone to it's original look. Stones with an absorption rate <0.25% should not be sealed.

Posted by stonegirl on Thu, Jun 4, 09 at 11:43

Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

Here is a how-to for sealing:

You will need the following:

  • Home improvement strength alcohol
  • Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
  • Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
  • Sealer

What to do:

  1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
  2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
  3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
  4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
  5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
  6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
  7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single, heavy handed application.

For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy


clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 12:08 am    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 12:08 am

RE: Please show me your pendant lights, I'm stuck (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: polly929 on 03.19.2008 at 09:45 pm in Lighting Forum

Hi- I've been on the same misssion for the past few months, here are a few lighting websites that I found in the process: (often mentioned on this site)
I still haven't chosen pendants for my kitchen- so I can't show you mine. Also you can check th FKB over in kitchen forums under galleries



Places to buy pendants
clipped on: 09.12.2011 at 12:39 am    last updated on: 09.12.2011 at 12:39 am

RE: Classic white kitchen-what hardware besides bin pull? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: willtv on 07.20.2011 at 11:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try D. Lawless Hardware, They have great prices and a wide selection.
I'm attaching a link

Here is a link that might be useful: D. Lawless Hardware


Amerock hardware for doors and drawers
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 10:53 pm

RE: Hardware Hell!! Trying to find Amerock Highland Ridge (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: traceee on 07.26.2011 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try this link for AH Turf. I had a good experience with them. When you put item in your cart, looks like about 1/2 the price. They also have it in 3 different finishes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Highland Ridge


A place to purchase Amerock doors and knobs is called A&H Turf
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 10:30 pm

Another Garden Web Inspired Finished Kitchen ( Lots of Pics)

posted by: LRy511 on 09.05.2011 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

My new kitchen makes me smile. I have to thank everyone at the Garden Web Kitchen Forum for giving me wonderful, practical ideas to help create my new kitchen. I also have to thank my DH for allowing me to do what I wanted to do in this kitchen, mainly white cabinets.

I have lived in this house for 13 years and always knew one day we would (God willing) renovate the kitchen. At first I wanted to change everything as far as layout, however, as time went on I discovered the layout really worked well and all I need to do was tweak a few areas. I needed to create a larger prep zone; I needed the garbage bin to by my prep zone and not half way across the kitchen. I also needed move the microwave away from the range at the request of my four children. I switched the refrigerator and wall oven to shrink the work triangle. My DH and I debated whether to put in a narrow island/ table or keep our kitchen table. We decided the space would be too small for an island and I liked the family sitting around the table and talking to one another and not seated bar style.

Many thanks to the Garden Web for giving me the impetus to ask if we could raise an obtrusive beam (left over from a 1985 renovation) into the ceiling. This beam caused the 6" vent pipe to run through several cabinets severely limiting my storage space. All gone now! This alone helped to create more storage space .We also expanded the opening into the family room and eliminated a door into the dining room and upgraded the windows to tilt-ins.

Range: Electrolux Induction Cooktop Range with second oven.
Wall oven: Electrolux single wall oven
Refrigerator: Kitchen Aid Architect II French Door Refrigerator (KFCS22EVMS4) Love the water feature inside!
Dishwasher: Kitchen Aid KUDE40FXPA panel ready. And Yes! you can integrate a Kitchen Aid if you know up front you need to allow for an extra �" in length. My CG put an extra �" sheet of sheet rock on the wall and cut out the space for the dishwasher. We had plenty of room to accommodate the Kitchen Aid and make it look integrated.
Microwave: GE Monogram ZEM200SF
Hood: Broan Elite Rangemaster Power Pack RMP17004
Cabinets: Dura Supreme: Crestwood series
Arcadia Classic, Maple perimeter in classic white
Arcadia Classic, Cherry Hutch peninsula
Granite: New Venetian Gold
Hardware: Amerock 96mm Westerly Pulls in Satin Nickel
Amerock Revitalize Knobs in Satin Nickel
Sink: Franke Orca sink, Love,Love,Love!!!
Faucet: Kohler K-690 Vinnata in polished chrome
Lotion Dispenser: Kohler Fairfax collection
Backsplash: Sonoma Tile; market collection, Ashbury Series in Mojave ( 4x4, subway, bead liner and moulding) also, Tumbled Honey onyx .
Under cabinet Lighting: Utilitech LED under cabinet lights
Flooring: Verde1999, Moonstone 20 x 20 porcelain tiles.
Charging Drawer
Wall Color: BM 1639 Windy Sky

message center:
charging drawer:
eating area:
Future Roman Shade Fabric for windows:
Orca Sink:
love the lowered outlets:
Drawers for pots:
New Floor:
Sam loves it too!
integrated dishwasher:
Thank You looking at our pictures!


Like the Amerock Door knos and pulls
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 09:43 pm

RE: Semi-pro/commercial faucets used? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: kris_ma on 09.09.2011 at 03:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Brenda,

I feel for you -- this is a hard decision. I feel there is a bit of misinformation (e.g. the residential ones aren't powerful, they'll tear up veggies, etc.) out there about semi-pro faucets, I guess because they're not terribly common, yet. In light of that I did something that I already regret -- I did a video showing mine in action. Mine is a residential, not commercial, it's a KWC and it cost around $550 at a reputable on-line dealer. Retail is much higher, but as with many things, you can get a good deal on these if you shop around.

Pardon my mid-western twang and excessive 'um's' in the video. I ain't no theater major and 12 years in Mass. isn't enough to get that doggone twang outta me yet.

Hope it helps. Here's the URL, but link should show below as well:


Here is a link that might be useful: KWC Semi-pro product review by Kris_MA


watch this video of faucet in action.
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 02:50 pm

mpagmom & arlis (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: kris_ma on 09.10.2011 at 05:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Mpagmom -- I'm still fascinated by the accents here -- a lot of times they vary from town to town, both in the vocab used as well as the strength of the accent. Does your husband miss MA? I'd have a hard time leaving, love the area -- though in a couple months I'll start singin' a very different song as I shovel a couple of feet of snow for the third time in a week. Yeah, o.k., I can see why your husband might have left the area....

I had to laugh at your question -- shortly after we finished our reno we took in two teenage foster sons in addition to our own teenage son, they had me sweating bullets about what they could/might do with that sprayer and to my new kitchen in general. Fortunately few of my worries came to pass, and the few "accidents" that did happen helped to get me past the "oh no, how will I survive my kitchen's first scratch/dent" anxieties -- it (the injury) came in the form of a 12" long fairly deep scratch in the wood floor when someone was moving an island stool across the kitchen. I was sad at the time, but life goes on, and as it happens the patina-o-scratches that I have 1 1/2 yrs. later has lessened the big-ones noticibility -- actually, now when I look at it I really just miss the teen that did it (he went home a while ago) -- never thought I'd feel that way about a scratch. :-) But I digress (boy did I digress!)....

That question you asked was really was a good question -- so much so that I took off my 5 a.m. insomniac hat and put on my kitchen scientist hat (or lab coat) and went into the kitchen to perform my experiment. First of all, the sprayer has to have the lever depressed for it to spray at all, but there is a mechanical ring that you can turn 45 degrees at the top of the handle to put it into a spray on position and leave it (I don't think anyone else (e.g. the kids) know about it -- but a rubberband on the spray lever would do the same thing, and that has occurred to kids in the past (not in this house, but still...). So to find out what would happen if it got put back (either by lock or by rubberband) I engaged the lock and then I turned on the water full force. The result: it just stayed in exactly the same position it was already in and sprayed straight down into the sink (whew!). The head on this particular sprayer has pretty significant heft to it (maybe a couple pounds), so that causes it to hang in a straight down position when "hanging loose" over the sink, so it overcame any force from the water spraying and remained exactly where/as it had been prior to the water. Hope this explains it well enough.

Arlis, thanks for sharing the info about the cost differences between the different KWC's. I couldn't figure it out at the time -- I am very relieved to hear that there's not a lead issue with this one, as I had not ever looked at that aspect (or realized it was an issue at all) when considering faucets. Very enlightening info re: the lead.


read about the faucet when you let it stays1
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 02:31 pm

Finished White Kitchen!

posted by: robinst on 12.30.2009 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are the finished pictures of our white kitchen. Thanks to this site for a lot of my inspiration. Some of the details are:

Cabinets: Custom White Shaker
Paint: Cabinets - Benjamin Moore Simply White
Wall - Benjamin Moore Piedmont Gray
Faucet: Kraus
Counters: Black Pearl Granite
Fridge: GE Profile
Stove: JennAir
Backsplash: Carrara Random

White Kitchen






see Faucet in pics Kraus
clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 02:01 pm

RE: Dimmer Problem (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: normclc on 11.24.2010 at 12:45 am in Lighting Forum

The heat build up you feel on your dimmers can be caused by a number of factors.
Inexpensive "imported" dimmers are usually rated at 500 watts, and even then are suspect.
Even good quality 600 watt dimmers, like Lutron or Leviton, can be come warm as the total load approaches the maximum rating.
If your dimmer is installed in a gang of switches, the maximum load is reduced to 500watt or 400watt, depending on how many of the metal heat sinks are popped off for gang mounting.
Your problem can be solved by reducung the bulb wattage further, replacing the dimmer with a good quality dimmer, or installing a 1000 watt dimmer


Dimmer info
clipped on: 09.06.2011 at 01:50 am    last updated on: 09.06.2011 at 01:51 am

RE: Help with Living Room Recessed Lighting (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: simbany1 on 08.05.2010 at 06:03 pm in Lighting Forum

Thanks again for the response. I decided to go with Halo 4" cans and r20 philips halogena bulbs. They seem to get great reviews on all the sites I go to.


High hats for kitchen?
clipped on: 08.30.2011 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 08.30.2011 at 12:07 am

RE: Bay window with granite pass thru (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: dodge59 on 07.09.2011 at 09:31 am in Kitchens Forum

OK, as promised, here are 2 pictures of the bay window, first one shows the "Illusion" that the bay window sits on a huge block of granite, and the 2nd picture is the granite shelf from the outside.

Kitchen Bay Window 2006

Kitchen Passthru 2006



Show Ed for his kitchen!
clipped on: 08.29.2011 at 11:53 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2011 at 11:54 pm

RE: Undercabinet Lighting - really need help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: numbersjunkie on 12.01.2010 at 09:40 pm in Lighting Forum

There are warm white LED lights available. Check out environmental

I do not think the fluorescent lights suggested above are dimmable, but many LED lights are. If that's important to you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Warm white dimmable LED bars


Great pricing or LEDs.
clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 10:21 pm

RE: Range Hood Advice (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: circuspeanut on 06.26.2011 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Catvault, the blower vents directly into the metal ducting, so nothing ever touches the wood hood cover itself. Here's what mine looked like before we built the plywood cover. What you see is the sturdy wooden support frame that holds the whole schmear up, the liner (not very visible, underneath -- in our case I tiled a liner rather than using stainless) and the blower after being connected to the ducting. If we didn't care about looks, it would have functioned just fine left like this: ;-)
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

And this is completely cheesy, but I drew this in a hurry for someone else on the forum who couldn't visualize the installation, perhaps it will help?

One thing I learned after drawing this was that these units don't actually drop down into the hole in the liner, as you'd expect, but instead are pushed up into the hole with clips that expand once it's popped up in, then screwed in for safety. This means that you can remove the unit from below if you should ever need to, without destroying the decorative exterior of your hood.

(PS: does 'catvault' mean that you have a number of felines locked up somewhere while you're doing this remodel..?)


What we need for custom hood.
clipped on: 08.22.2011 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2011 at 03:51 pm

RE: FInished Kitchen with pictures (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bestquad on 06.10.2011 at 10:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Brand is Top Knobs. Large handles are M1338 Oil Rubbed Bronze, Tuscany Large D-Handle 8 13/16 inch CC.
Round Knobs are M1224 1 1/4 inch Oil Rubbed Bronze.
Smaller handles are also same collection.


Knobs for cabinets..I like them.
clipped on: 08.17.2011 at 01:02 am    last updated on: 08.17.2011 at 01:02 am

RE: Blanco sink to go with my granite (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bugbite on 07.23.2011 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Read the complaints about keeping the dark ones clean. Ours is white and we love it. Does not "stick out".
Remember to use silicon when installing the stainer and not plumbers puddy (read container or call Blanco). The Kohler stainer at HD fits best (no gap around the strainer and the sink).


Silicon not plumbers puddy
clipped on: 08.08.2011 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2011 at 11:01 pm

RE: Griddle on range (possibly NXR)? Pros/Cons (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Nunyabiz1 on 04.05.2011 at 04:00 pm in Appliances Forum

I have the NXR NRG3001 which is the 4 burner 30" model.

Right now I have a removable griddle that is 14X23", very heavy steel griddle that works great plus I can just store it in the oven or cabinet when not needed.
That could be a good option for you, get the 36" 6 Burner NXR and then get either the 14X23 or 23X23" griddle depending on how big a griddle you need.
That way you have 6 burners AND what ever size griddle that you need, plus you can use it elsewhere like camping or charcoal grill.

They also have a less portable version if you prefer and can even get a "broiler" ( I call it a grill personally)to go with it.

I have the 14X23" (RM1423-8) and it is big enough for about 8 pancakes.
Best price I found for it was Amazon for $52

Here are the Chef King griddles, IMO they are about as good as you will find anywhere, way better than any aluminum/nonstick.

I used to have an old O'Keffe & Merritt about 25 years ago that had a griddle in the middle, was much smaller than the 14X23" I have now. I think I prefer to have it removable even though I loved that old stove.

As far as NXR stoves go, we absolutely love ours although we have only had it just a week.
We bought ours for $1799.00 total cost, no tax, free shipping so for the price there are no other stoves that even come close to the quality of these stoves for that price, even for double that price there are non better.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rocky Mountain Cookware


Griddle for NXR range
clipped on: 08.08.2011 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2011 at 09:28 pm

RE: NXR Range (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: staceyneil on 03.04.2010 at 08:57 am in Appliances Forum


1) In the beginning I was paranoid about every little scratch. Small scrathces come out easily with Bar Keeper's friend and one of those "gentle" blue scrubbie sponges. Then one day my DH used a "rough" green scrubbie instead. He scratched the center SS area badly. I was so upset!!! However, after 5-6 weeks of use, and regular cleaning, the bad scratch has blended somewhat. I expect it will continue to do so.

I have never had a SS range before, so I can't comment on the scratching in comparison to to other ranges. However, I was very aware when we were shopping for ranges, of the scratches. I noticed that the GE Cafes in most showrooms had the worst and deepest scratches. Perhaps that's only because more people were looking at them, moving the grates, etc? If you expect it to stay absolutely pristing, showroom condition, you're going to have to be extraordinarily careful )like, don't cook on it!) but personally, I like a little lived-in feeling. That's why I got marble countertops, which had etching and scratches after the first 2 days, despite babying them!

2)My range is rock solid. It is very very heavy. It has easily adjustible feet.

3) The seams could be easier to clean... but it's not awful. I have yet (after, what, 10 months use?) to get out a toothbrush because I can't clean the grooves.... that may happen at some point but so far, the corner of a sponge has worked just fine. To me, it's one of the trade-offs that I just didn't feel justified spending an extra $1000.

4) Not at all!!!!! What would be the result of something being too far away? The flames hit the bottom of my pans just right. I get a VERY hot flame, or a VERY low simmer... no problem.

5) The only pan I have a problem with is my tiny saucepan. The bottom is about 5" wide. On medium to high flame, the flame is too large for the pan. It is fabulous on the low (smaller) simmer though. I do still use this pan for rice, since that amount of time it needs to be on the outer flame ring is so short, and then it gets turned down to the smaller inner flame for most of the cooking time. And its great for melting butter or chocolate of course.

6) See above. Simmer is the smaller inner burner. In most cases this is wonderful. The only time it's not is when simmering in my hugest pan... I feel I stir a little more often since the flame is concentrated in the center of such a large pan. The burner works like this: As you turn the dial counter clockwise: you start at high, a high flame from the outer burner ring AND a high flame from the small inner ring. As you decrease the dial, the outer flame diminishes. At about 6:00, the outer flame turns off, and you're just on the inner flame, which continues to decrease until you get the barest whisper of a flame on low. The transition between the two is the only place where it's not perfectly, infinitley adjustable. This is about Medium, I'd say. Occasionally, with some pans and some contents, I need to switch between the two to maintain the proper cooking temp over time.

I'd recommend you go try one out in a showroom if you can. I think you'll be very impressed with the burners. I caompared them side by side with a Capital Range and the NXR was far nicer, IMHO....


Nxr owner
clipped on: 08.08.2011 at 12:29 am    last updated on: 08.08.2011 at 12:29 am

couple other things (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: Nunyabiz1 on 04.01.2011 at 01:30 pm in Appliances Forum

Couple other things I thought that I would mention since the original poster asked about CFM.
We just have a over the range microwave that is 400CFM and it seems to work just fine.
I also purchased a really nice Griddle to put over 2 burners that works great.
It was from a place called Rocky Mountain cookware.
a Chef King Griddle that is 14x23", very thick and heavy, fits perfect over 2 burners and plenty of room to cook about 8 pancakes at a time.


Griddle for NXR
clipped on: 08.07.2011 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2011 at 11:39 pm

RE: Light colored blanco silgranit sink-staining? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: redroze on 06.07.2011 at 10:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

We've had a biscuit Blanco sink for 3 years and no staining. I use Vim cream cleaner - I read somewhere that it's the best stuff to use on silgranit. We had a black (anthracite) Blanco sink prior to this one and I just knew we had to get silgranit. I wish they had the grey colours in my time though - it would have gone better with our granite.

The taupey coloured sink that came out recently is called Truffle. LOVE it...

There's also Silk which is a lighter grey. Would go well with carrarra marble.


Note type of cleaner for Blanco
clipped on: 07.27.2011 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 07.27.2011 at 12:21 am

RE: New kitchen photos, custom cherry cabs (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: bjwright1 on 04.05.2011 at 10:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

The monitor is actually a flatscreen Samsung LED TV that can be toggled between "TV" or "PC" inputs as desired. The LED TV (because it is much thinner than a standard LCD, and the connections are oriented more favorably) allows the monitor to hang fully incased in the wall recess. As you see from the photos, the "PC" portion is controlled by a wireless bluetooth keyboard and mouse in the very flat drawer directly below. The monitor gets its signal from the larger drawer below the "flat" drawer, where a laptop sits and performs the same function that a tower performs for a desktop computer. (there is simply a setting in Windows that tells the laptop to "do nothing" when the lid is closed instead of powering off or hibernating as it usually would). The monitor/TV is inset into the wall and cords come up through the wall from the larger drawer as needed. Audio/video cords also come up through the wall. The main TV setup in our house is in the room behind the kitchen and all the cords run down into our unfinished laundry room, then up to the computer/TV in our kitchen (again, through the interior wall space). Hope that helps, let us know if you have any other questions.


Kitchen computer area
clipped on: 05.20.2011 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2011 at 11:33 pm

RE: Cabinet sticker sticker shock (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: daveinorlado on 03.30.2011 at 10:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have been working on the pricing of some custom kitchens the last few days from people of a home show I recently attended. I wish I knew where more suckers were that would pay 75k for their cabinets. Geppetto is a completly custom company with a book set up in 3" increments so you can create a price for a kitchen in 2020 software on the fly with you customer. Beaded face frame openings for the entire kitchen cost me $500 and to change to inset doors and drawers was $1,500. That is $2,000 total cost to go from frameless or full overlay to beaded inset. I can custom color match any existing sample or specify any Sherwin Williams paint or stain. Milk paint, paint on paint distressing galore choices and everything else in between. The total dealer cost on the kitchen is $22,700 I quoted it at $27,757 and would do that all day long. Half of the cabinets are custom size in height or width or both, 13" wall cabinet depth all plywood boxes blumotion dovetail drawers blumotion doors pull out and other accesories in all base cabinets a hood is being built to match an existing fireplace mantle in the room it will be custom color matched for stain color also. The base cabients are being custom color matched to a customer door sample that is just right to their eye they have.

Where do these dealers get these prices you guys are willing pay? Unbelivable. I am definetly stupid when it comes to finding people that pay the prices I see thrown around on here all the time and then I am shocked to read that half of them still require filler strips to be install the kitchen. When you install a row of cabinets between to fixed walls you need a place of adjustment to get it to fit just right. I usually size one cabinet 1/2" short and put an extended stile on the cabinet that can be trimed to fit the row just right. Why would anyone pay that kind of price for cabients that can not be spec'd to any size needed in any combination of height width and depth?

Unbelievable to me.


In VA.
clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 12:59 pm

RE: Hood: puzzled by CFM/cost, perimeter suction & cleaning glas (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: amcook on 07.01.2010 at 02:09 pm in Appliances Forum

CFM ratings are measured but just like with everything there are ways to play with the test. Lower recommended installation height won't affect the CFM rating but will improve capture effectiveness of any hood/vent system. The question is, whether the recommendation is the result of less efficient design.

Most companies make unimpeded measurements which means assuming no ducting and no resistance. At first glance this might make sense to make sure vendors are comparing oranges to oranges. The reality is there are different ways to reach equivalent CFM that produce vastly different results in real world installations. For instance, a large motor and fan spinning at a slower rate will produce the same amount of air movement as a smaller motor/fan spinning faster. The difference occurs when you apply resistance to the system in the form of the duct, the exhaust cap, and the hood. As a consumer it's hard to judge the size of the blower motor and fan assembly. In other words, comparing two oranges is great but not the whole picture if you're making sangria.

There is one measure that might be a good guide and that is the duct size the blower accepts by default. The size of the blower and fan are usually relative to the duct size. So, as a rough measure, if you have a blower that uses 6" ducts rated at 900cfm it will probably not perform as well as a blower that uses 8" ducts in the same installation. Obviously, if you use 6" ducts with the 6" blower and 8" ducts with the 8" blower, you also reduce the level or resistance of the system with the larger ducts. But even if you adapt the 6" blower to 8" ducts, it's probably still less efficient than the 8" unit over 8" ducts.

With regard to the mounting height. Usually, hoods are designed to capture vapors in a containment area to give the "suction" time to work. With flat surface hoods, you don't have that so you typically need to mount them lower. All hoods have perimeter suction because it sucks air in from around the edge of the hood (i.e. the perimeter). The flat panel vents (fan/filter without "hood") does not have a capture space that the traditional hood provides so it relies completely on perimeter suction. IMHO, this is marketing strategy where if you give the design flaw a name then it seems cool. :) Seriously though, these vents are mostly about style. The most efficient hood system would take up most of the ceiling in your kitchen and be f'ugly to boot. You just have to decide where on the spectrum between style and function you are happy with.

Make sense? I don't know about glass canopies. I suspect they might get some grease collecting on them but some might argue that glass is less porous than SS so it should be easier to clean.


Great info for vent and blower and duct size.
clipped on: 04.28.2011 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2011 at 09:24 pm

'Best' Hood vs. Ventahood

posted by: seasidetomato on 08.10.2010 at 11:21 am in Appliances Forum

Hi Folks-

I am building a new house and right now am deciding on a hood to go with the American Range 48" 6 burner with grill that I plan to get.

One dealer has recommended a 1200 CFM "Best" Hood: it has a good sized capture area and 1200 CFM should do the job.

Another dealer thinks that I need a three blower, 900 CFM Ventahood (equivalent to 1200 CFM due to unique blower,lack of baffle).

I have read the many hood posts here and I was very impressed with VaH.

However, as my builder reminds me, I am blowing through my budget (this is a whole house-so there's floors, counters, siding, woodwork, etc, etc to be bought).

I am OK with the range's price as I love to cook and this is an area where I'm willing to spend more and trade-off elsewhere. However, I'm getting nervous because hood prices are high, for me anyway.

The Best hood would be about $1,500 while VaH would be $3500--these prices are for parts alone.

While I was very impressed with VaH, is it really the only suitable hood for this application? Anyone else have an AR with a grill?

While I gulped hard at $1500 for a Best--I was hoping to keep the hood price under $1000--$3500 is really high, in my situation. I'm not saying that it's overpriced, just outside my budget.

My fear is that if I get this wrong, I will get the range and hood in place and find that I have a stinky, greasy mess with an underperforming hood.

I could really use some advise from folks with a grill in their range.

Many thanks!



Great info about vent a hood vs. Best broan
clipped on: 04.27.2011 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2011 at 11:21 pm

RE: Range to have lights in front or back? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: amcook on 10.30.2010 at 02:55 am in Appliances Forum

If you mount your hood at 30" above standard height counters, that would be at a height of 5'6" which is pretty low. You might want to consider getting a hood that's wider and deeper than your cooktop and mount it a bit higher. More typical hood heights are 30-36" above cooking surface so the 24-30" is on the low side. Something to think about when shopping for your hood.


How high the hood should be from the range.
clipped on: 04.27.2011 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2011 at 10:12 pm

RE: Electrical Socket Placement, Hiding Sockets & General Advice (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: brickeyee on 03.26.2011 at 06:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

The general National Electric Code (NEC) requirement for kitchen counter space is that no place on the counter can be more than 24 inches from a receptacle measured parallel to the wall, and ALL counter receptacle must be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected.

Sinks do not count, ranges do not count, etc. in the receptacle spacing.

It can get touchy if windows come down to the counter.
There is no exception in the NEC for having the required receptacles, and they cannot be placed face up in a counter.

Any section of counter more than 12 inches wide requires a receptacle.

There are limits on counter overhang for receptacles under the counter (though it is pretty large) and how far below the counter the receptacles can be.

You can use things like plug-mold on a GFCI protected circuit placed on the bottom of the upper cabinets (or on the wall just below the upper cabinets, or on an angle under the upper cabinets).

Receptacles inside appliance garages do not count.

The kitchen counters must be supplied by at least two 20 amp 'small appliance branch circuits' that can only be used for the counter receptacles (you can feed 120 V to a gas stove, a clock, or a refrigerator).

Lighting, dishwashers, garbage disposals, trash compactors, and other permanent equipment are NOT allowed on the small appliance circuits.

Kitchens have a lot of specific rules in the NEC.
Some places have even more local rules, a few fewer rules.


Electrical requirements for outlets and others.
clipped on: 04.26.2011 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 04.26.2011 at 12:00 pm

Venting 101

posted by: aliris19 on 01.10.2011 at 03:06 am in Appliances Forum

I post herewith a summary of my understanding regarding the issues of buying ventilating equipment so far. Please if I have something wrong here, please, please chirp up and correct me. While this may seem really obvious to some, it hasn't been to me and I post it on the off-chance that another similarly blowing-challenged down the line, will find it helpful.

You know something? This hood-ventilation thing really isn't that hard. It shouldn't be, and it isn't!

I offer here my take on it:

When you cook on the stove, you produce heat and fumes and other volatiles. To mitigate smell and coating of one's kitchens with those volatiles, you might want to suck away all that gunk. Suck it up and blow it outside, either through a wall or the roof.

That's it, it's that simple.

Draw it in, suck it up, blow it out. Those are the parts of the system.

You can obtain those parts á la carte, or as a package deal. In the end you need to have:

1. A hood to contain the capturing apparatus, or "liner" (aka "insert"). This can be stand-alone metal, under-cabinet metal or in-cabinet (i.e., wooden) or some combination of this - point is, this is the housing of the device that receives what is sucked. One's selection at this point is mostly aesthetic, though encasing the sucking apparatus in wood can mitigate noise. Recessing the trapping apparatus within the hood assists the job of trapping. The bigger the hood - width and depth - the more assistance provided in trapping. Width past that of the stovetop is desirable though depth begins to impinge on tall cooks' heads.

2. Trapping apparatus. There are various styles. This apparatus filters the gunk and captures it; it is necessary to remove (clean) what gets captured. There are metal mesh apparatus that do this capturing and metal baffles and maybe some other options. Issues here are ease of cleaning, appearance and noise. Angling of baffles might assist capture and cleaning. As will recessing the liner within the hood. Ease of accessing filters and removing and cleaning them are at issue.

3. Sucking apparatus. This is a motor. Its location can be attached to the liner, placed inside ("inline" along) the ductwork that extends from the hood to the outside (usually in an attic), or outside either on the roof or against the side of your house, wherever your duct exits the house. The further from the cook this blower lives, the quieter is life (for the cook). Buying the blower attached to the liner and/or hood lessens the number of choices to make thereby simplifying life. Choosing a more remote blower makes life quieter, but it is a separate purchase (potentially increasing the cost of the system). If the blower is distant from the hood, it should be stronger in order to accomplish the same clearage of gunk. Gunk clearance by the motor is measured in "cfm"s (cubic feet per minute). Noise is metered subjectively in terms of nuisance, via the "sone". 1 sone is the nuisance level, if you will, of a quiet refrigerator in a quiet kitchen - obviously a hugely subjective non-measure. YMMV. Stronger setups may attach two blowers to the hood liner. Total cfm is still the measure. I've never seen talk of motor manufacturer or quality, oddly enough.

4. Ductwork. This will bring the sucked air from over the cooktop to the outside. It can be hidden or decoratively visible or a combination thereof. If you have an installer involved, they may purchase this part of the ensemble; it's the least of your worries except to consider whether you wish to have any visible or not. But ductwork that's meant to be pretty will possibly come as part of the hood ensemble. Or not -- something to check on.

5. Silencer. If the blower you buy is remote from the liner, either inline or external, an inline silencer can mitigate noise further. The equipment is massive and relatively cheap for the pain it diminishes.

Noise considerations. These are affected mostly by such things as the configuration of (i.e., number and shape of the angles in) the ductwork, diameter of the ducts used, material of the hood, machinery of the blower, presence of a silencer, distance of blower from hearer, type and perhaps configuration of filters, strength of blower, manufacturer of blower. Since there are so many push-me-pull-you parameters, it is hard to assert that noise is best mitigated at any one point in the system; things depend....

Confusion. I find this mostly to do with the fact that the system has many parts, and you can buy pieces of it separately and also combined. The permutations are many (hood with insert, hood+insert with or without blower, insert with or without blower etc) so it becomes very hard to compare or evaluate proposed purchases. Not to mention price-shop. Hard to know what you're responsible for buying, but you must wind up with 1-4 above.

Someone's Dad was rather wise to note that he was too poor to buy cheaply. Is this true in the case of ventilation systems? The quality of material and construction, as well as location of construction, is debated. Lower gauge steel is heavier duty (16 or 18 is preferred); higher quality is measured as "304" ("430" is of lesser grade) stainless steel (ss). Hood seams trap gunk so are harder to clean; seamless hoods are very expensive. Proportions matter aesthetically since the system is so prominent.


Talk to Ed about wwhat he tpially does for ventilation?
clipped on: 04.10.2011 at 11:52 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2011 at 11:53 pm

RE: How do you store your knives? Knife drawer suggestions please (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: alwayssunshine on 09.22.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is the one we bought!

I have a ton of knives and this fits (almost) all of them! It is soooo nice to just open the drawer and choose! Good luck in your search!

Here is a link that might be useful: Expand-A-Drawer Knife Organizer


Idea for knives in drawer.
clipped on: 09.23.2010 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2010 at 10:48 pm

RE: My Italian Kitchen Finished w/pictures (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chinkle on 02.04.2010 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before 3
Full Frontal
Corner Left
Butcher Block Island made by my son, Andrew
Beautiful Island
Open Cabinet
Stove View

This kitchen remodel sort of exploded from the kitchen, to the dining room, to the family room, laundry. Mostly the kitchen was done, we just tied all the ceramic floor tile all through the kitchen, dining room, family room and laundry.

My Cabinet are Laureldale Amaretto Creme Glaze, by in Culver City, CA Charlie Torres is wonderful to work with. This is an online store where you have to know what you want and they place the order for you.

My Granite Counters are Typhoon Bordeaux and were purchased from a Prefab Granite Company

My Stainless Appliances are from the GE Cafe Series, love them and ordered them online also.


Getting this range
clipped on: 08.19.2010 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2010 at 10:59 pm

RE: Best advice from this forum (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: chmpgntst on 07.18.2007 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Can I change my answer? I really like this that I stole from Dmlove---
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I love not having all those cords on my desk/countertop! So best advice from this forum... details make the difference!


Make sure to have this for computer and phone etc...have Marc build a little shelf high up under cabinet like we have in the basement.
clipped on: 03.17.2010 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 03.17.2010 at 12:07 am

RE: counter depth fridge at end of cabinet run? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 01.11.2010 at 11:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Our refrigerator is on the end of a run in a doorway as well. But, since we have a narrow aisle at that point and our refrigerator is on an outside wall (so no recessing), we went with a counter-depth to save aisle space.

  • As to how to recess into the wall, others have described it pretty well. What isn't mentioned is that some people recess their refrigerator not only into the wall, but into the room behind it. If you need to recess your refrigerator more than 3" or 4", you will need to recess into the next room. However, even those 3" or 4" can help if you have a standard depth refrigerator!

  • Since CD refrigerators are not totally counter-depth, they will stick out several inches beyond the surrounding counters...up to 3" or 4" for the doors and another 2" or so for the handles (depending on the refrigerator). The doors must stick out past the counters to open fully. Because of this, we also built our refrigerator in with end panels (end panels are only as deep as the distance b/w the back wall and the front of the refrigerator carcass/box).

    Note that a full depth end panel will not make a difference in a "dark corner" b/c the refrigerator will be just as deep so will still create the "dark corner". I.e., whether you have full or partial depth end panels the effect will be the same b/c the refrigerator will be even deeper.

  • One more deep is the wall next to your refrigerator? If it's deeper than 24" or 25" you will need some filler b/w the refrigerator & the wall...the deeper the wall, the more filler will be needed. If it's no more than 24" or so, you shouldn't need any filler unless there's door trim...then you will probably need filler to clear the door trim.
  • NOTES:

    explain this to Paul and Marc.
    clipped on: 02.14.2010 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2010 at 10:28 pm

    RE: Pocket door questions (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: judydel on 01.17.2010 at 11:35 am in Home Decorating Forum

    hoosiergirl your johnson pocket door hardware link bring you to chincilla furs. What's up with that!??

    Anyway, we have 3 single pocket doors and 1 double door pocket door. We love them. They were installed during our addition/remodel project. Our builder installed heavy duty pocket frames/glides and we have no problem. We used solid pine doors like in the rest of our home. I found great hardware through Rejuvenation Hardware. Our is called the Putnam lockset. There is a key hole on one side and thumb turn on the other. Here's a photo of ours and a photo from the catalogue. We have the ORB. The catalogue photo is in antique brass.




    Rejuvenation Hardware site look for the Putnam lockset
    clipped on: 02.09.2010 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2010 at 10:18 pm

    RE: Pocket door questions (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: hudsonleigh on 01.16.2010 at 11:57 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    I have 5 pocket doors. 4 came with the house, one was just put into our family bathroom during reno this past fall. Love them all, and would totally do it again. DH did NOT want the one in the bathroom, and GC argued against it as well, but I held my ground and couldn't be happier.

    That being said, I've never installed one myself, but I know there are kits out there, and it didn't look altogether difficult when GC did it.

    Here's a "during" pic....

    from doorway


    find out what kind of door they much to do it?
    clipped on: 02.09.2010 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2010 at 10:13 pm

    RE: Please help w/ questions and layout options for kitchen. (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: khatam on 02.02.2010 at 02:34 pm in Lighting Forum

    As far as I can tell the designer doesn't have too much lighting design knowledge. Are they an interior designer? The electrician won't be able to give you any information on placement, but rather be able to wire everything up.

    Beam spread all depends on the type of lamp (technical term for lightbulb) is used, and nothing to do with your line voltage. I highly recommend line voltage.

    You should be able to zone it how you would like, but I recommend having different switches for different tasks. Or even areas. Your undercabinet lighting should be separate from your kitchen lighting, this will not only help you on your lighting bill but will give you way more control. Also, I'm hoping with all this work you will actually have dimmers. Please remember that if you're using compact fluorescent you cannot use a dimmer, unless you have a ballast that supports it (very expensive ballasts).

    There seems to be downlights all over the place, am I right? You will want to make sure downlights are 18" away from the wall.

    Try to follow your contractor/electrician's advice as far as "how many lights can go on one switch".

    To me it seems as if you're trying to turn all the lights into task lights, as oppose to indicating task areas. A well designed kitchen is well lit, however it doesn't have to be lit up like a ball of fire. I would love to give you more details, however I really can't read your plans very well. Perhaps a bigger size?


    don't want compact fluorescent b/c I want dimmers..

    I want line voltage

    clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 09:27 pm

    RE: Under Cabinet Lights (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: davidr on 04.18.2007 at 06:11 pm in Lighting Forum

    Halogen, xenon, etc. are just different flavors of incandescent lamps. The difference between one incandescent lamp and another is really just a matter of degree. They all produce heat as their main product. The light is secondary. Some produce a little more light, some a little whiter light, some last a bit longer; but none is very good at providing light efficiently without melting your chocolate chips in the cabinet above.

    If you want cooler, more efficient undercabinet lighting, T4 or T5 fluorescent is a better option. Specify electronic ballast and 3000K CT, 82+ CRI lamps for a pleasant light which will blend with incandescents.


    understand what T4 and T5 are and what they look like.
    clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 09:13 pm

    Calculating Window Height (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: buehl on 02.10.2009 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We went through this for our window. We had a bay window that was only 22" above the floor. We raised it so we could put our counter into the bay and up to the sill as well. The two side windows open, the middle window does not. It is difficult and you may or may not get it exact...err on the side of slightly higher than lower, though, b/c you can have a very short sill (~1/4" or so) and still have the same look.

    Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

    • Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)

    • Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

    Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

    OK...this is what you have to do...

    1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?

      • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

        E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

        Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

      • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.

    2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

    3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.

      • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

      • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

    4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.



    directions for countertop window..making the countertop flush with the window.
    clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 01:32 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 01:34 pm

    RE: Windows that come all the way down to counter-Photos Please!! (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: judydel on 09.19.2009 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here is mine, but also untrimmed, etc. We bumped the window out 6" or 7" beyond the wall so that we have more room behind the sink. I got the idea from others on GW : )



    is this the type of bump out that we will have? only 10 inches?
    clipped on: 09.19.2009 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2009 at 01:31 pm

    RE: Windows that come all the way down to counter-Photos Please!! (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: fran1523 on 09.19.2009 at 11:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's mine. It's one of my favorite features in the new kitchen.

    Sink and New window



    in my kitchen will the granite meet the window or will the granite meet the wood/trim
    clipped on: 09.19.2009 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2009 at 01:29 pm

    RE: Windows that come all the way down to counter-Photos Please!! (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: natesgramma on 09.19.2009 at 01:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's mine.


    love the window
    clipped on: 09.19.2009 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2009 at 01:28 pm

    more pictures of my new kitchen

    posted by: kelleg on 08.10.2009 at 09:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Well, my life has settled down a bit. We moved into our new house two weeks ago. I have been cooking in my new kitchen and grilling outside on my new grill. Both are great. Here are a few more pictures and some details.

    Appliances are all Thermador with exception of MW, which is GE, and DWs, which are Kitchenaid (there are two--one next to big sink and one next to prep sink). We really like the Thermador column fridge and freezer, though we have had the water in the ice dispenser go out twice. My new Therm ovens seem to bake really well.

    My sinks are Kohler cast iron. I LOVE them. So far, they haven't marked up at all. The faucets are Moen and are from Lowe's.

    Granite is Costa Esmerelda. I love it. The tile is Irongate by Meredith with a Jeffrey Court accent. Some people wanted closeups of this, so I included those.

    Cabinets are custom made inset. I like them. The "feet" and inset doors take some getting used to. I did make the uppers deeper--15 inches. Highly recommend that.

    I have a "hidden" pantry behind the doors next to the hutch. It is huge. Maybe I will take a picture of that at some point. It has been great.

    I think that is it. Here are some pictures (the color is a bit washed out in most):



    Hidden pantry behind these doors:








    Thanks to all of you who answered my questions and gave suggestions. Gardenweb has been invaluable!!!!


    like the pseudo legs in the island..not sticking out on their own but you still have the look of them in the wood. definitely need a place for the cell phones computer etc...
    clipped on: 09.17.2009 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2009 at 09:43 pm

    RE: Need back-up for DH and contractor about fridge cabinet (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: buehl on 08.03.2009 at 02:58 am in Kitchens Forum

    Just to give you an idea, NOT for your refrigerator (a GE Profile FD, CD) requires 1/8" on the sides, 1" on the top, and 1/2" in the back for air clearance. The look you want is easily accomplished with these air clearances.

    In general, CD refrigerators (if that's what you're getting) are designed to need very little air clearance.

    I think your DH & GC are remembering the older refrigerators that needed several inches...refrigerators today are designed differently.

    That said, I strongly encourage you to pick out your refrigerator and ask a Sears rep for the information you need.

    BTW...since you have your email turned off in your profile, you probably are not getting these responses emailed to you, despite the fact that you checked the "Check here if you would like copies of follow-ups to your message emailed to you" box when you started this thread. You need to do both...check the box and turn on your email in your profile.


    info on inches needed around refrigerator
    clipped on: 09.12.2009 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2009 at 09:47 pm

    RE: Typical payment schedule for a General Contractor? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: lowspark on 08.27.2009 at 12:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We paid our contractor 10% upon signing the contract. Then we paid as things were completed. The contract outlined how that would work. For example, demolition cost $xx. Once it was done, he would give me an invoice for that amount. Appliances delivered = $xx. Once they were delivered, we'd be invoiced. Etc. Electrical, plumbing, counters, etc. The cabinets were a little bit different since we were working with a cabinet shop, so I had to pay 50% upon signing that order, 50% upon receipt, and installation after it was done.

    Everything was set out exactly in the contract and except for the cabinets and the deposit, we paid for everything AFTER it was done to our satisfaction. Final 10% was due upon completion of the punch list.


    clipped on: 08.30.2009 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2009 at 12:38 pm

    RE: Kitchen Tear Out - Did you do it yourself? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: growlery on 08.13.2009 at 12:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Good on you for self-reliance!

    I would talk to your contractor (assuming you have one) to ask if he/she knows of anything tricky about your specific project. And so it's not a surprise.

    I have heard of people getting happy with the Sawzall, not being familiar with the wiring or plumbing plans (or having helpers who weren't) or things where they weren't supposed to be and ... zzzzzzip! So don't do that.

    Saving beers for AFTER helps cut down on bad judgement!

    Thinking of things like protecting the floor (which you say you want to keep BEFORE you start helps. My contractor used rhinoboard, a reusable compressed paper product that you're supposed to be able to drive forklifts over. That way if you drop a tool or a cabinet or a big chunk of tile, you won't damage the floor. And obviously turn off all the electric, water and gas to that part of the house.

    I would also say the biggest thing you can do to help yourself is ALL agree, before you start, that if you reach a point where you are in over your heads, STOP. Don't hurt yourselves (very common!) or create a situation that's going to be expensive to fix by blasting away at something. Like that upper cabinet that refuses to budge -- until the middle of the night when it lets go, smashing into your floor and damaging a pipe. If something looks too huge or too complicated or too dangerous to do safely, leave that thing for the professionals and move on to things you can do safely by yourselves.

    Even if you just end up doing some simple things and cleaning up, that's some hours saved.

    Good luck!


    ask about RHINOBOARD for our hardwood floors so they don't get damaged..also ask about a fan to pull all the dust out!

    call gas company they will come out and disconnect the gas for free...

    clipped on: 08.15.2009 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2009 at 01:08 pm

    RE: Painted white or wood stained? How do you decide? (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: needsometips08 on 07.15.2009 at 02:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

    For the counter, I am hoping to find a granite that is very calm like the White Princess one firsthouse_mp just found. I love the idea of quartz, but they just keep looking so modern and not warm.

    I am up in the air about the glaze too. I have time to decide that.

    Sweeby test:

    The feel:
    Traditional yet a clean look not overly ornate or foo-foo
    Mix of finishes

    I want my kitchen to be a palatte of calm, tranquil, yet striking features that have depth and exude warmth. I want to create a kitchen that feels warm and homespun, yet wrapped in elegance. I want natural sunlight to bathe the space, and warm woods underfoot. I want creamy white to sit side by side with natural wood with brown/yellow undertones. I want the countertops to feel clean and unbusy. I want my backsplash to have a calm and uniform sparkle to it something that adds zing without clutter. I would like the focal points to be a gorgeous island, a beautiful wood hood, and the archway millwork with the armoire and chandelier in the background.

    Inspiration kitchens:


    like the Sweeby Test except I can do w/o the last sentence....would like to eventually do the pillars into the LR.
    clipped on: 08.14.2009 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2009 at 11:15 pm

    RE: Islands with beadboard and casserole dish storage ? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: morton5 on 06.30.2009 at 05:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The regulars on this board will be sick of having me show-and-tell agian, but here is my casserole storage, in a deep lower drawer:


    The drawer is a Blum tandembox metal and melamine drawer, from Ikea. The dividers snap onto the rails in any configuration you want.

    Custom wooden dividers could probably accomplish the same task.

    My loaf pans are on a shelf above my oven (I keep my tray storage in a base cab). Sorry, can't help with the beadboard.

    Will a 30" drawer stack be enough to hold all your pots and pans? It depends on how many you have. I have all mine in a 30" stack, except for my cast iron fry pans and dutch oven, which are in a shallow drawer under the oven, and my seafood kettle, which is in a cab over the refrigerator. Be sure to measure your tallest stock pot to see if it will fit in the deepest drawer.


    love this would love to have this for easy access and storage.
    clipped on: 08.14.2009 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2009 at 10:34 pm

    RE: Kitchen Islands - Lets See Your Pics (Follow-Up #100)

    posted by: crazyhouse6 on 04.30.2009 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'll squeeze another island in on this thread.
    (Struggling to resize this picture. Sorry.)



    Love this island from the color granite/stone, hardware, one tier.
    clipped on: 08.14.2009 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2009 at 10:14 pm