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Making Progress...need stools and chairs!!!

posted by: pps7 on 08.26.2010 at 10:17 am in Kitchens Forum

We've moved in! There are still a few little things here and there to get done before the kitchen is complete. The crown still needs to go on the cabinets, dining room needs a chandelier and rug. I've ordered a seagrass rug for the dining room. But the most urgently, we need kitchen counter stools! I think I'm burnt out on decisions. Any suggestions for the general style/color of counter stools? It's quite an open space.

We also need dining table chairs. The parsons chairs are staying but the ladder back chairs need to be replaced. DH thinks we should do parsons chairs all around to break up they wood but I'm not sure sure. I've linked the top contender below, but here are a few alternatives:

http://www.chdist.com/displayproductdetail.do?itemGroupOID=82817&baseItemOID=82817

http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod1608042&navAction=jump&navCount=0

http://www.potterybarn.com/products/aaron-barstool/?pkey=cbarstool

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Here is a link that might be useful: CB basque

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clipped on: 08.27.2010 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2010 at 11:03 pm

RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #78)

posted by: lsandler on 04.26.2008 at 07:13 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a 36 by 6 inch cabinet on one side of my island.

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clipped on: 05.29.2010 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 05.29.2010 at 10:44 am

RE: Roll out trays and canned goods storage (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: zelmar on 05.02.2010 at 05:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

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clipped on: 05.29.2010 at 09:48 am    last updated on: 05.29.2010 at 09:48 am

RE: pull-out pantry vs individual slide out (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: zelmar on 12.21.2008 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

loves2cookfor6's pull-out is beautiful!

I guess it really depends on the space you have available. Full pull-outs only seem useful if they are quite narrow. The beauty of individual pull-outs is that you have access to the items from both sides, FRONT and TOP. I like pulling an item off the shelf without having a shelf above blocking access and light. In my mind, the full pull-out doesn't function much differently from fixed shelves except for giving access to 2 sides.

I used to love going into Ikea showrooms and opening the full pull-outs. They were fun and seemed so clever! But when it came time to choose a 15" wide Ikea pantry for our laundry room, I abandoned the full pull-out (which I really thought I wanted) for the practicality of the individual pull-outs. I couldn't think of a single functional reason for getting the full pull-out.

In our house, having drawers on the bottom of our kitchen pantry works well since only the bottom drawer is blocked if something is left on the floor in front of the pantry.

I keep my most used items in the front of our pantry shelves. I just have to open the cabinet doot to grab one of these items instead of pulling out anything.

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clipped on: 05.29.2010 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 05.29.2010 at 09:32 am

RE: Layout options? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: j_mueller on 05.25.2010 at 10:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have designed and installed kitchens for over 28 years, and the design I see above will give you major problems with working at the stove and fridge. Can you give me more information, like the size of your fridge? I will try to come up with a good solution for you because I specialize in solving the problems that allot of designers create. You would also be making a major mistake putting the range in the corner, it is a total waste of space. You can also contact me directly if you like, j_mueller@ymail.com

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clipped on: 05.26.2010 at 01:13 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2010 at 01:13 pm

RE: a few pictures of our finished kitchen (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rufinorox on 05.22.2010 at 04:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oh Yes I do ...

BEFORE

Sink area

empty wall with frig

range and microwave area

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clipped on: 05.23.2010 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 05.23.2010 at 11:33 am

RE: Where can I get good, real wood drawer organizers? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: bob_cville on 07.09.2009 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

As several people have confirmed, the drawer dividers I made use the Lee Valley brackets. I also used 1/4" thick 4" wide poplar boards from Lowe's.

So all I needed to do was rip the boards to width (I used a table saw, but you could probably use a circular saw and a straight edge.) And then carefully cut the boards to length (I used a sliding miter saw, but you could also use a miter box and a sharp hand saw, or a square and a circular saw.)

Most of the dividers are about 3 1/2" tall, but for the silverware dividers, I made them about 2" tall to make reaching the silverware easier.

I also considered making frames within the drawer like lowspark did, but I decided that I like the look without frames. Also even if I decide to remove the dividers, the holes made by the sharp prongs on the brass dividers are small enough that they'd probably never be noticed.

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clipped on: 05.22.2010 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 05.22.2010 at 10:09 am

RE: Useless little cabinets (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: circuspeanut on 05.19.2010 at 09:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Have you by any chance priced out custom? I ask because when I was initially pondering my kitchen, I went to a big box store to get design ideas and wound up with lots of weird corners and fillers (there are 3 doors to my small kitchen). Turns out I used recycled cabinets instead, so it became a matter of shoehorning/rebuilding to fit.

But why I'm going on here -- we have a trim carpenter friend who did our install, and he had brilliant ideas for tiny spaces. Instead of useless little end cabinets, he moved our fridge over 8" and gave us some extremely useful pullout pantry bins, for instance. Stuff I'd never have thought of:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

So: I wonder if you might find more options with someone who thinks in terms of available space and wood, not so much a "designer" who wants to create a "look"?

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clipped on: 05.22.2010 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 05.22.2010 at 09:28 am

RE: Anyone NOT have counter-depth refrigerator? Pics (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: patti_bee on 01.13.2008 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think it will look fine, especially where your fridge is located. Another idea is to consider making the counters on that wall of the kitchen 30 inches deep instead of 24. We have that and the full-depth fridge blends right in plus the lovely benefit of deeper drawers and more counter space. It may be too late in your process to do this but I just love my deeper drawers and counters. Here's a view that shows how the fridge fits with 30 inch counters --

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clipped on: 05.21.2010 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2010 at 05:31 pm

RE: Kitchen layout - feedback please (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chicagoans on 05.19.2010 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi allnew.

You need to upload the image to a photo hosting site like Webshots or Photobucket. (Both of these allow you to set up an account for free.) Each has a fairly straightforward way to upload photos. Once the photos are uploaded, you click on the photo (and in Webshots you then click on Link to it); it shows the code for including an image in a post.

On this forum, use the code that starts with < a

Copy that code and paste it into your message here. Press Preview to make sure it worked (you should see your photo in the preview.) I'm saying 'photo' but the same process is for any graphic file, e.g. a scanned image of your layout, etc.

post a photo

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clipped on: 05.19.2010 at 04:30 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2010 at 04:30 pm

RE: Recessed Light Spacing (photos included) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jon1270 on 02.14.2007 at 07:40 pm in Lighting Forum

Hi Dinger,

I don't think your 5 cans are going to cut it. Let me explain why.

The most basic measures of a light bulb's output is unit of measure is "lumens." This is a measurement of the total amount of light that makes it out of the bulb, regardless of which direction it's heading in. Lumens are useful for knowing how much ambient light the bulb is capable of putting into the room, to bounce around off the walls, floor, ceiling, cabinets, counters and everything else in the room.

The next most useful measurement of light output is "candlepower." This is a measurement of just how much light, or how many lumens, come out of the bulb heading in a particular direction. This is useful when you've want to calculate how much light, emanating directly from the bulb, will fall on a surface some known distance away from that bulb.

Because I know how high your ceiling is, I can look at the candlepower statistics for various 50PAR30 bulbs and know how much light one of them can put onto the countertop directly below. I can adjust the spacing of fixtures to achieve a particular level of light on the work surfaces the cans are pointed at.

Because I know the overall dimensions of the room, I can make a rough guess of the area of all the surfaces in it. Light, conveniently quantifiable in lumens, leaves each fixture and lands on some surface in it's path. Some of it is absorbed into that surface, becoming heat energy, but much of it ricochets off and hits something else. This indirect light, bouncing around the room, is what I'm calling "ambient." It lets you see all the stuff you didn't intentionally point a spotlight at. The amount of ambient light you need depends on the area of various surfaces in the room, which need to be illuminated and which also gradually absorb the light and turn it into heat. It also depends on how rapidly the specific surfaces in your room tend to absorb light - largely a function of color - and also on your particular preferences, which might, in turn, depend on your own aesthetic taste, age and visual health. Unless you say something like "I want it really bright" or "I have black cabinets," I base my suggestions on average situations and my own preferences: I'm 36 and have a bit of astigmatism, I know how much light my kitchen fixtures produce, and I know that I wish I had a bit more artificial lighting than I do. Using these figures, I extrapolate how many lumens I'd want in a kitchen the size of yours. Since I know how many lumens each bulb generates, I can make a good guess about how many I should put in your room.

So, on to your room.

For a room the size of yours, I think the lumen output of all the fixtures should add up to something like 5800 total lumens. I'm not including the sink or UC lights in that number because I don't want you to have to turn on every light in the room in order to get decent light. You've simplified my job by indicating the size and wattage of the bulbs you'll be using, so I don't have to choose. A 50WPAR30, according to my trusty Sylvania catalog, puts out 660 lumens. This tells me I want to find places to put at least nine of them in your room.

I also know the ceiling heights. The height at the edge of the sink-side cabinets should be around 105", and at the edge of the stove-side cabinets it's about 135".

On the lower-ceilinged sink side, using 50PAR30/NFL25 (narrow flood, 25 degree beam angle), we can space cans 36" apart and have 60 footcandles of light on the counters. To achieve the same light level on the higher-ceilinged stove side, using the same bulbs, they'll need to be 25" apart.

It's easy enough to put four cans on the sink side. Two to the left of the sink, one to the right and one over the sink works well. I run into a problem on the stove side, though. The 60 footcandle (quite bright) target depends the pools of light from adjacent fixtures overlapping quite a bit, because one lone light from 135" high is only going to be able to put, at most, 34 footcandles on the counters, and that's not so great. The problem is that there's really only room for one light on each side of the range, which means no overlap, which means 34 or fewer footcandles rather than the hoped-for 60. I wish those fixtures could use a 60PAR30, which would do nicely without the overlap. But they don't, and I don't know what to tell you other than you'll be depending on your hood lights and UC lights when you work on that side, so make sure they're good.

Anyhow, this is what I came up with...

That should give you lots-o-light on the sink side and so-so light on the stove side unless the UCs are on. The two cans out towards the middle will fill in light on the floor, which would otherwise be a bit dim, and also add ambient light to help hit my target.

Out of curiosity, what's on that blank wall to the left?

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clipped on: 05.13.2010 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 05.13.2010 at 09:36 am

RE: Pendant Lights on Vaulted Ceiling (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: housavvy on 12.23.2008 at 07:08 am in Lighting Forum

If you use mini pendants you'll probably need to order extra rods. Most of the time they come with about 5' maximum drop.
I've seen island lights look good especially if you have a roomy kitchen. With the tall ceiling it sounds like you do, but my personal favorite if the space is right, are the potrack lights. They are made to hold pots, but you can also put flower arrangements, or about anything on them. Some have uplights, but most all of them have good downlights.
Enjoy your new kitchen!

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clipped on: 05.13.2010 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 05.13.2010 at 09:27 am

RE: Pot lights in a vaulted ceiling?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ilitem on 04.30.2007 at 07:09 am in Lighting Forum

there are specific recessed lights that are manufactured for vaulted ceilings. And yes, they do look great. I would check out the websites of Lightolier, Nora, Juno, and Halo. This will give you some idea of the depth needed and the look that they now have available. If you have a lighting showroom in the area, they will be able to also assist you in making this decision.

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Pot lighting references.
clipped on: 05.13.2010 at 09:25 am    last updated on: 05.13.2010 at 09:26 am

RE: How Do I Calculate Amount of Recessed Lites for Kitchen? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: davidtay on 05.10.2010 at 08:44 pm in Lighting Forum

I would think no more than 11.

The formula I used is total sq ft * lumens per sq ft / lumen output per fixture.

(16 * 12) * 35 / 600 = 11.2
Assumptions
35 lumens per sq ft for kitchen space.
600 lumens output per recessed fixture.

HTH

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clipped on: 05.13.2010 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 05.13.2010 at 09:20 am

RE: laminte counter with undermount sink? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: joyce_6333 on 05.12.2010 at 02:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

At a recent home show I saw undermount stainless steel sinks with laminate counters. I asked the dealer how they were holding up, and he said they are guaranteed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Custom Craft Counters

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clipped on: 05.12.2010 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2010 at 05:20 pm

RE: trash accessible from 2 sides. How? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 05.12.2010 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Loves2Cook4Six has one. I think she described it once. Use the Google (or similar) search engine to search for it. Include "site:ths.gardenweb.com" in the search criteria.

Meanwhile, here's her finished kitchen thread from November 2008...

Thread: I'll bite the bullet and share - 1 yr later - almost finished

Here is a link that might be useful: FKB: Loves2Cook4Six's Kitchen

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clipped on: 05.12.2010 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2010 at 05:18 pm

RE: Are you happy with your Omega Dynasty cabinets? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: buehl on 04.28.2010 at 01:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Omega Dynasty and love my cabinets! However, I have a full-overlay door, not an inset, and stained cherry, not painted. The finish has been wonderful, all the hardware works so smoothly & well, the soft-close on the drawers is great, and they have excellent customer service!

An added advantage of Omega Dynasty is that most door styles are also in the Omega Custom line so if you need a Custom cabinet or two, you can "mix & match"...use the less expensive Dynasty semi-custom line for most cabinets and just use the Custom line for the cabinets when they're either only available in Custom or if it costs less to get a Custom cabinet than modify a Dynasty cabinet.

One thing...it's expensive to get soft-close for cabinet doors, so I recommend not getting the soft-close for the doors and adding the a soft-close damper after-market...that's what we did. However, get the soft-close drawers (they were standard on ours, so I suspect they'll be standard for you as well). Soft-close drawer hardware is built into the drawer glides so to replace non-soft-close drawer hardware later would require all new drawer glides.

Dampers installed after-market:

Blumotion for Compact Hinges Closeup 1

Entire kitchen

Entire Kitchen, view from DR

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clipped on: 05.10.2010 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2010 at 10:32 pm

RE: Bar overhang? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: montanamaven on 05.10.2010 at 06:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ignore the ugly old bar stools. I'm still looking. P1000260

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clipped on: 05.10.2010 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2010 at 09:40 pm

RE: Hidden Gems (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: zelmar on 07.27.2009 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

hi southernsticher,

We used half the cabinet for the tv (a small 15" tv) and the other half for baking/roasting pan storage.

tv cabinet

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above stove - tv and trays
clipped on: 05.10.2010 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2010 at 08:00 pm

Wants, Needs, Questions... (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 02.26.2010 at 06:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen
  1. Appliances
    • Stainless Range- 6 burner, gas-like functionality of induction but do not like look as much so will probably go with gas). Put against short wall or corner
    • Stainless Fridge (French door?). Put where washer is now.
    • Double Oven/Warming Drawer- may leave out second oven if micro is large with convection
    • Microwave
    • Wine fridge
    • Stack washer/dryer
    • Farm sink- large single basin

  2. Counters
    • Granite
    • Prep sink (silgranit? Ss?) in Island with foot pedal across from range

  3. Cabinets
    • Glazed, raised panel detail, furniture look, off-white glazed for main full overlay with hidden hinges or inset- details and finish important
    • Cabinets full extension and soft close.
    • Upper cabinets 13 14 inches
    • Cabinet- preference for deep drawers under counters vs. doors
    • Iron knobs- vintage look
    • Possible slight bump out on farm sink cabinet
    • Darker glazed wood island (maybe knotty alder)
    • Darker glazed wood office/cocktail area on wall that is currently blank- need hiding charging station for LOTS of cameras/ipods/cell phone, etc.
    • Appliance Garage- unless corner panty
    • Lots of embellishments/corbels/cab feet
    • Tall cabinet for cutting boards and cookie sheet
    • Drawer for knives
    • Drawer for bread
    • Cabinets to ceiling (39 inch with 4 inch crown)
    • Lights under cabinets, round pools of light on dimmers
    • Electrical outlets under mounted-plugmold- unless appliance is perm plug in, dont like dangling cords. Should consider sillite or plugmold for island? How to plug in warmers?
    • Huge Spice rack/access important
    • Recycling and regular trash in pull out drawer- maybe foot pedal
    • Do not want rectangle island- need shape to it with subtle overhang
    • Probably will leave toaster and coffee maker out. Would like easy access to kitchen aid and food processor (both heavy) but want them off the counter.

  4. Dcor & Misc
    • Somewhere to put pictures- bulletin/magnetic board in frame?
    • New Round kitchen table
    • Stone backsplash- must be cleanable! Maybe subway pattern, maybe shimmery glass tile, maybe stone
    • New Chandelier or no chandelier?
    • New window treatments
    • New paint
    • Hardware- blackened iron or brushed nickel

  5. Architecture
    • Remove banisters- maybe build slight edge on side of bay window (bookcase on other side?) so that you dont fall off or some sort of new rail
    • Add arch to family room entrance, dining room entrance, possibly hall entrance
    • Make sink window bigger
    • Build stone arch for range hood or look at other options- maybe dark furniture based- want as focal point
    • Remove "wall of doors"
    • Remove soffit

Here are some other Q&A I read was helpful on GW:

  • What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc.
    • Better appliances, bigger range, more storage, more room for entertaining in kitchen- everyone huddles around our small island.
    • Remove hideous builder look.

  • What is your family composition? Adults? Children? Age ranges of children? Current? Future?
    • Current 2 parents, 1 live in nanny, 2 kids ages 6 and 2. Possible of one more kid in future.

  • How many kitchen workers are there? Cook(s)? Cleanup? Helpers? Now? Future? (E.g., if you have young children, plan for them as teens for both "sizing" of seating as well as helping in the kitchen in general)
    • I am primary cook. My kids LOVE to help cook and insist on helping with everything even when mommy REALLY doesnt want their help. They drag chairs to the island.

  • How do you see your kitchen used? Just for cooking/cleaning up? Children doing homework while you cook?
    • Homework at table, entertaining, cooking

  • Do you entertain a lot? Formal? Informal?
    • Informal, yes. Formal occasional

  • Do you want your kitchen to be a "hang out" place? Parties only? Everyday?
    • Yes, its the center of the house.

  • Do you have a separate DR? Do you use it frequently? Infrequently? If infrequently, do you want to begin using it more frequently?
    • Have DR, used to use it a lot, less so with small kids.
    • We do more informal entertaining these days.
    • DR used about 10 times a year.

  • Would you like to open up the kitchen to adjacent areas? Close it up?
    • Not possible. Exterior wall is a second story deck. No other room to annex

  • Can windows or doorways change size?

    Yes

  • Can they be moved?

    No

  • Can windows be raised/lowered?

    Not Sure

  • Can any walls come down?

    No

  • Does the sink have to be centered under a window?

    Yes

  • Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center?
    • I do bake. Generally use island
    • We drink coffee- would consider built in

  • Refrigerator (Top/bottom freezer, SxS, or all-fridge/freezer? Counter-depth (CD), standard-depth, or built-in?)

    Open was thinking french door, not firm on anything

  • Ventilation Hood?

    Want focal point- like elaborate hoods


I guess my major questions are:

  1. Which layout should I go for- pantry in corner, stove in corner or corner in corner (haha).

  2. Where should I put other things? Where can I put appliance hideouts?

  3. Is it worth it to enlarge the window about 6 inches in each direction?

  4. What would you do with the space?

  5. What to do about replacing those country railing to the family room?

  6. What are good cabinets for painted off white/cream with glaze that are not crazy expensive. This is a mid range house don't want to overdo it. I LOVE the look of premier but I am betting I will not like their prices. Right now I am talking to people who represent Decora, Bercht, Dutchmade, Crystal, Shiloh. I did talk to someone who does candlelight and premier and acorn but I haven't moved forward with her as she wants 5% of project cost on top of design fees of 2500. But I could probably JUST get the cabinets from her.


THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!


(I was reading it and was separating out so I thought others might benefit...)

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Questions on goals
clipped on: 05.08.2010 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2010 at 11:57 pm

RE: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 03.01.2010 at 06:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Why do you think it would be any better w/Roll Out Tray Shelves (ROTS, a.k.a., pullout shelves)? To me, it would be worse...I'd have to worry about things falling off b/c the sides are so low if I was rummaging around looking for something. At least drawer sides would keep things in the drawer...

One of the secrets to any kind of storage is to plan your storage so you don't have to do too much stacking...e.g., a 36" drawer for pots & pans often means no more than one or two items stacked. Sometimes a 4-drawer stack w/shallower drawers for smaller items is better than a 3-drawer w/2 deep shelves & 1 shallow.

Also, instead of stacking lids separately, store them with their associated pot/pan.

If you have been reading, then you know...

  • With drawers, just pull open/push shut.
  • With ROTS, you have to open one or two doors, pull out the tray, push the tray back in, wait for it to close completely, close one or two doors

  • With drawers, things won't fall off the sides, the drawers' sides are all full height so things are kept corralled.
  • With ROTS, not only can things fall off and over the shallow sides, but if handles stick out past the sides, they can get caught on the door frame coming out.

  • With drawers, they're not adjustable, but with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with/in them
  • With ROTS, they are adjustable.

  • With drawers, you only have to open them far enough to get what you want
  • With ROTS, the doors almost always have to be opened all the way to get to even the contents in the front of the ROTS.

  • Personally, I like the look of drawer bases better than all doors...this is a personal preference and has no bearing on functionality one way or the other.

    I store just about any type of item you can think of in drawers...utensils, pots/pans, toaster, mixers, food processor, wraps & baggies, foils, extension cords & other electrical-related items, bread, linens, Tupperware, water bottles, mixing bowls, tableware, junk, candles and other misc stuff, cookie cutters/rolling pin/sifter, ... The list goes on!

    Regardless of your decision on drawers vs ROTS, get full-extension...it's a must! Soft-close is also nice, but it's a nice to have. Actually, I might consider not getting soft-close for ROTS b/c the slight delay in closing (as the drawer/tray is gently closed) means having to wait to close the door(s).


    Here, for example, is my pot drawer:

    See the link below for a link to the insides of my cabinet drawers. You will see what I store in drawers.

    BTW...the only cabinet I regret getting is my Pet Center cabinet with ROTS...it's a pain and would have been much better if it had been a "trash pullout" type cabinet.

  • Here is a link that might be useful: Inside Buehl's Cabinet Drawers

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    clipped on: 05.08.2010 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2010 at 04:45 pm

    RE: Bread Drawer Inserts-Preferences? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: buehl on 04.21.2010 at 11:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I originally had planned to get one from my cabinetmaker but eliminated it due to budget. I just store bread in a drawer as-is and it's fine. It actually lasts longer in the drawer than it did in our old pantry!

    My bread drawer is the bottom drawer of a 24" wide 4-drawer drawer base.

    Bread Drawer, 24

    Today, the drawer is full..with bagels, bread (1-1/2 loaves), kaiser rolls, hamburger rolls, hot dog rolls, English Muffins, and Cinnamon Raisin bread. It holds more than you think it would and nothing gets lost!

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    clipped on: 05.08.2010 at 04:43 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2010 at 04:43 pm

    Does anyone have refrigerator that only opens 90degree?

    posted by: kaismom on 05.07.2010 at 01:09 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have sent my cabinet order in!
    I knew the limitations and I thought I could live with 90 degree door opening refrigerator. Now, I am having second thoughts...

    Does anyone have a refrigerator that only opens 90 degrees? How do you like it? Currently, the design calls for 3 inch scribe piece next to the door.

    The wall is only 4 ft deep and it is there to run the main sewer stack and some wiring. Wiring will be easy enough to move, spatially, (but not monetarily!)

    Right now, we live with the refrigerator door swinging away from the wall (opening toward counter) so it opens further than 90 deg. We had the door opening toward the wall, and we swapped it because it drove us nuts.

    My husband made it seem as if moving the plumbing there to get rid of the wall would be nearly impossible. It turns out it may only cost couple thousand. (what is couple thousand when all cost is spiraling out of control!) We will have to open up the wall, get the plumber here for a definitive answer before designing the next section of the cabinets. It will be the best $200 ever spent to know what is possible and what is not.

    I nixed the Nana wall at $5000. I said absolutely NO.
    He wants the sky light enlarged at 10k or so. Again, I don't.

    But, I want this plumbing moved so that I can open the refrigerator. It seems like it would be the best $2000 spent, much more sensible than Nana wall... He doesn't!

    I am sure you all agree absolutely how to spend the $ with your lovely DH/DW.

    Ugh! Just venting.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.08.2010 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2010 at 04:15 pm