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RE: Williams-Sonoma Step Ladder - dimensions? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.03.2008 at 11:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

But wait--you can pop the rubber feet off the W-S step stool, and cut the legs quite easily with a hacksaw so it will fit in a standard height cab with toe-kick. Ask me how I know:

stepstool_ dustpan cab pic 2.jpg

Yes, you do lose some of the overall height (and a little bit of the cool factor with it being ever-so-slightly more sqaut with the shorter legs), but the height of the top step isn't much different (if at all, I forget) from the Leifheit/Polder stools. It's also MUCH lighter in weight than they are and MUCH easier to open and close.

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clipped on: 02.06.2008 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2008 at 01:11 pm

RE: Cabinet Hardware (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 04.03.2007 at 08:57 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
Here are the ones I've used:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/index.php

http://www.ahturf.com/

http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/index.jsp

http://www.restoration.com/index.html

Casey

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 02:32 pm

RE: hafele trash pedal - Q to owners (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lowspark on 09.18.2006 at 07:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's the most recent thread:

Posted by jquentzel (My Page) on Fri, Apr 28, 06 at 9:56

A while ago someone mentioned that they had installed the hafele trash pedal. I can not find the post and Hafele tells me it is only compatable with their trash pullouts. I was wondering if the poster's pullout was a different company. I have a pullout that has side glides and is like a shelf with pails resting through holes in the shelf. The door is attached to the end of the shelf and pulls straight out. I didn't know which pedal to order and thought maybe someone could help me.


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Fri, Apr 28, 06 at 10:39

Yipes! I can't find it either! I didn't think that thread was so old but I guess it's rolled off!
Anyway, I'm the one (or one of the ones) who installed the trash pedal -- on a trash pull out which was installed as part of my cabinet order. The business about it only being compatible with their pullouts is hogwash.

I have the same set up as you, the trash bins hang from the shelf at the top of the pull out, shelf is attached to rails.

Here's my little write up I saved from before:

The Haefele trash foot pedal is after market available on the web. Before ordering you'll need to know if your trash can hangs on a rail -- common for frameless cabs, or sits on a base -- more common with framed. Then you order the appropriate one.

It's pretty easy to install, I did it and I'm not much of a DIYer. Here are the two tips I can give you for installation if you buy the one for cans that hang from rails:
1. Put the magnet which attaches to the underside of the cab (in the toekick) as far forward as possible while still allowing the trash pull out to be flush with other cabs when closed.

2. Attach the top part of the tension cord at the point on which you want the cabinet open. I have a double trash bin pull out and I wanted it to open exposing the front bin only so I attached the top of the tension cord between the two bins.

Pedal for trash can which hangs from rails

Pedal for trash can which sits on base

I'll be happy to answer any other questions if I know the answer. This footpedal is one of those wonderful simple gadgets in my kitchen which make my life so much easier.


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Posted by jquentzel (My Page) on Fri, Apr 28, 06 at 11:35

lowspark-
Thank you so much for your answer. I remembered you posting these directions and I printed them out, but now in the middle with my floors being refinished, etc I have no idea where they are. I am going to try to order the pedal for trash which hangs from rails and hope it works. Thanks again.


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Posted by clemrick (My Page) on Fri, Apr 28, 06 at 12:15

lowspark - Can you open the cabinet without using the foot pedal? I'm wondering about times when visitors try to throw something out and forget/don't know about the pedal.


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Fri, Apr 28, 06 at 13:47

Yes you can, and visitors to my house do. No big deal.


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Posted by sarapamela (My Page) on Sat, May 6, 06 at 7:50

I've been thinking of getting one of the "Shelves that Slide" double trash pullouts for the cabinet that is right to the right of the sink ~ a corner cabinet that is perpendicular to it and has a lot of "dead space"...See picture below.
If I put trash pullouts and the foot pedal you recommend, will that location be a problem? I'm wondering if it would bump me as it opens because it is pretty close to the sink.

Which type, (hangs from rails or sits on base?) would be preferable? Some have wood, and others are just aluminum rails... Has anyone purchased this type of set-up online? From where? Was it worth the $150-200? Hard to install?

I like the sounds of your foot pedal, lowspark. It grabbed my attention the first time the question was posed, but I wasn't ready to act upon it yet. Now we are getting close and if I can squeeze another couple hundred out of our blown budget, I'd really like trash pullouts! Will they work in this location, or should I save the $ and just keep the cans in there?


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Posted by dastowers (My Page) on Sat, May 6, 06 at 9:45

I have the Kraftmaid pull out double trashcan. The cans sit on wood rails but have the full extention metal glides. Would the pedal work on these?


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Posted by dan_and_carolyn (My Page) on Sat, May 6, 06 at 23:46

I'm sure it'd work.
Interestingly, I just pulled my Kraftmaid 2-trash-can 18" pullout base cabinet out of the box today (I'm in the middle of installing my cabinets right now), and noticed that at the inside bottom edge of the door panel, there is a large round hole of perhaps 1.5 - 2" in diameter bored out, with screw holes drilled on either side (none of these extend to the outside of the door, of course). Looks a lot like the holes for hinges that are bored into the doors, except the hole is a bit bigger; and it's centered, or not-quite-centered, at the bottom edge of the door.

I have no idea why it's there; I'm wondering if KM perhaps offers a trash pedal of their own???

-dan


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Posted by sushraya (My Page) on Sun, May 7, 06 at 8:05

I was planning on getting one of these - until I realized that we have a heating vent under the trash can cabinet - not just a regular toe-kick. Could I still install the pedal?


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Posted by dastowers (My Page) on Sun, May 7, 06 at 8:54

Sushraya, would you be able to move that cabinet around to another spot in the layout? I remember when I first move to my current home and I put the trash can next to the heat vent- ah...heated trash...nearly knocked me over when I opened the lid. LOL!


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Sun, May 7, 06 at 21:48

Sarapamela,
The way I see it, anyone standing at the sink will be blocking the trash cabinet, whether it's a pull out or not. I mean, even if it's a regular cabinet door, how can it be open enough to throw something into the bin without hitting the person at the sink with the cabinet door?
IOW, no matter how that trash cab opens, whether it's a regular cab door, or a pull out with or without pedal, the one at the sink will have to get out of the way if someone wants to use the trash bin in there.

So, that being the case, I'd go for the trash pull out with pedal - because that's ultimately the most convenient option.

dastowers,
The trash bins either hang from rails or sit on a shelf which is attached to the door. When you say it "sits on wood rails" do you mean it sits on a wood shelf?

dan and carolyn, I have not heard of a Kraftmaid foot pedal -- never seen it mentioned here. But I'd be curious to see if they do have one.

Sushraya,
The pedal attaches to the underside of the cabinet floor inside the toekick area. So I'm sure you could install it, I just don't know how it would affect the vent since it would probably block it at least partially. And dastowers has a good point about heated trash...


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Posted by harper (My Page) on Wed, May 24, 06 at 22:11

Ok, I know this isn't much help, but today I found another company that offers the toe-kick opener feature.
Dh & I were shopping a local cabinet hardware store when his eagle eye spotted a poster display from KV (Knape & Vogt) that featured a top-mount toe-kick opening system for either single or double bin trash/recycling that can be used with a variety of door styles.

I can't find the system on their website, but it's there in living color in their catalog. Suggested list price is $37.92.

Harper

Here is a link that might be useful: KV ... phone 800-253-1561

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Posted by harper (My Page) on Wed, May 24, 06 at 22:26

Ok, that should have read:
A toe-kick opening system for either single or double bin top-mounted trash/recycling bins that can be used with a variety of door styles.

Harper


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Posted by sarapamela (My Page) on Wed, May 24, 06 at 22:34

Sounds very interesting, Harper! I think I'll call them tomorrow to see if their system will work with my cabinet doors. Thanks for sharing....


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Posted by harper (My Page) on Wed, May 24, 06 at 23:25

Sara, it's on page 2.2 of their catalog with stock #TKODM (toe-kick opener hardware).
Hope that helps.

Harper


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Thu, May 25, 06 at 9:28

This is definitely worth looking into - I'll be very interested to find out if anyone gets it and how it works out. I found the following information (note that it says it works for both framed and frameless).
KNAPE & VOGT INTRODUCES TOE-KICK OPENER FOR HANDS-FREE ACCESS TO WASTE BINS

GRAND RAPIDS, Michigan, May 1, 2003 Knape & Vogt Manufacturing Co. (Nasdaq: KNAP) has taken waste and recycling convenience to a new low actually foot level with the introduction of the Toe-Kick Opener (TKO) from its Real Solutions For Real Life brand.

The Grand Rapids, Mich.-based manufacturer of kitchen and bath storage solutions and office products displayed the TKO, along with several other innovative products and design concepts at the Kitchen/Bath Industry Show 2003, April 11-13 in Orlando. The TKO offers a convenient and practical solution for real life use in busy kitchens.

KVs TKO is designed for hands-free operation, making it quick and easy to open cabinets that house waste and recycling bins. With a simple toe tap, the door-mounted waste bin gently slides out to its full extension, allowing complete access to waste bins.

"We looked at the way people use their kitchens everyday and learned that sometimes they need an extra pair of hands. In essence, thats what the TKO is," said Amy Zook, senior product manager. "People often have their hands full when they need to access waste and recycling bins, so a hands-free solution was the answer. The toe tap feature is easy to use and convenient for everyone from busy cooks to kids."

The TKO is simple to operate. Lifting the foot pedal of the TKO releases a spring-loaded, magnetic-catch system. TKO requires upward motion to engage it, meaning it wont open simply as a result of an unintentional bump of the foot pedal. When engaged, the spring tension gently pushes the door outward. In the event it is activated inadvertently, there is little force and therefore little chance of injury.

The TKO is anchored in the toe-kick area to minimize impact on cabinet profiles. Its discreet design works with any cabinet style or room dcor. TKO can be used with a variety of cabinet door styles including framed or frameless, traditional or full overlay. The product is designed for use with KVs top-mounted single and double waste bin systems, and as a retrofit kit for KV top-mount systems that are already installed.

The TKO has been cycle tested to exceed Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) standards.

TKO is part of the KV brand Real Solutions For Real Life, which reflects the innovative product development and marketing approaches the Company is taking with its line of storage solutions for the home. KV also designs and builds a variety of wire storage items, pantry storage units, pullout waste and recycling containers, sink front trays and drawer inserts, and products for the bath and vanity.

Knape & Vogt Manufacturing Co. brings more than a century of experience to the design, manufacturing and distribution of functional hardware, storage-related components and ergonomic products for original equipment manufacturers, specialty distributors, office furniture dealers, hardware chains and major home centers throughout the country. Additional information on KVs product lines is available on www.kv.com.


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Thu, May 25, 06 at 9:34

I googled knape vogt TKODM and got a lot of sites. Link below is first one. Looking at the picture, it looks a lot like the Haefele one, with a larger strike so that it can extend past the frame. This is pretty much how I imagined the framed version would have to be -- the strike is definitiely visible as it extends over the frame. But that wouldn't really bother me. Still don't know if it would work with inset cabs though.

Here is a link that might be useful: here's one place to order it

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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Thu, May 25, 06 at 9:36

For anyone reading this for the first time, there are lots of additional useful comments on the related thread linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: more trash talk

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Posted by wildpastures (My Page) on Sun, Jun 18, 06 at 13:07

Thats an awesome thread. Not sure how I missed it. Thanks lowspark! Now where to put the pull out in the kitchen layout...


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Posted by indygenco (My Page) on Sun, Jun 18, 06 at 22:25

I believe we have one of the new "TKO" trash pedals. My general contractor had never heard of a foot pedal for trash pull-outs, so I printed out the Haefele website.... However, once installed, it was apparent that it was not a "push down" foot pedal, but a "lift up". Have had it for about three weeks, and took a while to get used to, but now I can usually get it to open on the first try. Still may need to be adjusted a little, I think. Doesn't always spring all the way open, and now that it is warm weather, I am finding it not very comfortable to open with sandals on.........I think I would prefer the push type. I am going to live with it for a little while, but ultimately may end up switching out for the push-down.


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Posted by caroleoh (My Page) on Mon, Jun 19, 06 at 8:41

What brand did you get? Is it the same Haefele foot pedal as Lowspark's??
Hmmm..I agree a lift up would not be as comfortable as a push down. Did they install it right?


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Posted by harper (My Page) on Mon, Jun 19, 06 at 11:16

Carol, I'm getting the KV too. That's the way it operates. I don't think the Haefele works on framed cabinets.
I decided to add a pull/handle to my trash/recycle cabinet for those times I'm barefoot. LOL It'll also give me a place to hang a towel and hopefully keep that cabinet door a little cleaner.

Harper


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Mon, Jun 19, 06 at 17:35

I'm not sure I'd like it to be a lift-up pedal but I'd probably get used to it. It's definitely a question to be answered as to whether the Haefele one will work on framed cabs.
Who else (besides me and claire_de_luna) has installed a foot pedal? Anyone? It would be good to hear from others to see which one they bought and what kind of cabs they have.


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Posted by indygenco (My Page) on Mon, Jun 19, 06 at 22:36

Caroleoh, I do not know the brand.........I think it could be adjusted a little so that it pops out more easily, I've asked DH to fiddle with it in his spare time - the spring almost seems like it needs to be shortened or tightened or maybe even the magnet moved a little. I am getting used to it, though, and my 5-year old has it totally figured out, no problem and loves to throw away everyone's trash after dinner:) Fortunately, my 2-year has NOT figured it out! There will be a knob, once the hardware comes in (for some reason even though I told them what I wanted a month ago, they waited until making final adjustments to order!). My MIL will be happy, as she keeps bending down to open it with her hand as she hasn't quite gotten the knack of it yet!!


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Posted by jquentzel (My Page) on Sat, Jul 15, 06 at 9:40

Lowspark- if you are there can you tell me what the bungee cords attach to. I do not see any holes in my glides to hook them to.


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Posted by jquentzel (My Page) on Sat, Jul 15, 06 at 15:56

Never mind. While I was out my handyman jury rigged something with the bungee attached to the back of the cab and it works great. Thanks anyway.


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Posted by sarahandbray (My Page) on Sun, Jul 16, 06 at 13:25

Anyone know if there's a push down trash pedal that works with Brookhaven cabinets? It seems like a GREAT idea!! (oh...and how much are we talking for these things?)
:)
Sarah


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Mon, Jul 17, 06 at 10:54

jquentzel,
looks like you got your problem solved but in case anyone else reads this, I actually had to drill a small hole in my metal glides to hook the bungee cord into. These things are made specifically to work with the Haefele pull out trash which has holes in the glides. But no big deal, drilling the hole was easy.
Sarah,
I have brookhaven cabinets and it works with mine. For pricing info, go to the link in my post at the very top.


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Posted by amandaw33 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 28, 06 at 15:39

anyone have lowsparks frameless version on kitchencraft cabs?
Anyone think it would be a problem to put something like this on thermofoil... seems scarey to me to drill holes through the thermofoil?


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Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Fri, Jul 28, 06 at 15:42

Amanda,
You don't drill holes in the door at all. You drill holes in the floor of the cab and you screw in a piece in the floor of the cab and you screw another piece into the back of the door. I don't know if thermafoil is also on the back of the door but if not, you're clear on that. And I also had to drill a hole into the railing as I said above, that's metal in my cabs but it was easy to drill through a thin piece of metal.


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Posted by amandaw33 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 28, 06 at 15:56

Great thanks for the reply.
I think you're right, thermofoil is just on the doors. The cabinet box is white MDF of some sort.

Thanks! Will look into this more.

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clipped on: 09.27.2006 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2006 at 08:19 pm

RE: Need Santa Cruz, CA granite fabricator help. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: winchestermystery on 10.24.2006 at 12:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Clare - a number of people have recommended Dave the Graniteman to me. He's in Santa Cruz. He's in the pink section of the phone book under Graniteman, The. He and I phone tagged over the summer, but never connected. I ended up going with Home Depot in Watsonville because they use a really good fabricator and Lynda, the salesperson was one of the most friendly, and helpful salespeople I've encountered throughout my whole house renovation process! I think I'm probably paying more than I would have had I waited for Dave the Graniteman, though.

He was very busy over the summer, but may have more time now as it's getting close to the holidays. His office is near Costco, maybe on Encinal, or Fern (can't remember) - hard to find, not marked, etc., so be sure to ask him specifics about the building he's in if you meet with him.

Good luck!

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clipped on: 10.25.2006 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2006 at 09:13 pm

RE: Need Santa Cruz, CA granite fabricator help. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dmlove on 10.24.2006 at 01:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine is Avalos in Santa Clara. I got the recommendation from several people here.

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clipped on: 10.25.2006 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2006 at 09:12 pm

RE: Online sources for Walker Zanger tile (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: chloe06 on 10.20.2006 at 11:49 am in Kitchens Forum

In Houston, the Grammercy Park granite goes for $22, plus a 20% contractor discount.
I had my bone china Grammercy Park backsplash started yesterday. I was here at the beginning, and then left for a few hours. When I returned I found a disaster, and it had to all be chipped out. Fortunately, it wasn't my fault and the GC agreed it looked awful.
When we had talked about the size of the grout line, they suggested it be "tight fit" (touching). This tile is irregular, as it is made by hand. So some pieces did touch, but others couldn't get closer than almost a 1/4". It all looked very wavy and very bad.
So today they're resetting at 3/16" per Walker Zanger. And it looks great! I wish the salesperson had told me that at the beginning, but all they said was to do it "as close as possible and still have a straight installation." I thought they understood that when they suggested the tight installation, but obviously not. I do think it's going to turn out beautiful in the end!

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clipped on: 10.23.2006 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 10.23.2006 at 12:02 am

RE: Stonegirl - we need your wisdom on cleaning granite! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: stonegirl on 09.27.2006 at 08:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Guys!

Sorry for the silence. We were away on vacation last week and are now paying the price for it. We are absolutely slammed at work.

It is common for slab factories to put some kind of sealer on the slabs before they ship them to the distributors. The quality of the sealer they use can vary quite considerably between companies. Most often it is just some kind of wax that wears off kinda' quick. It makes the stone appear sealed for a while, but routine cleaning during fabrication and install could remove this.

If you have found that the stone absorbs liquids after install, by all means call your fabricator back and have him seal it. You could also purchase your own sealer from stone supply companies like GranQuartz or Braxton-Bragg, but they do not often have smaller quantities available. Reputable stone care specialists like MB Stone and also the TYW Store at the John Bridge forums have some good sealing and stone care products available in home use sizes.

All different stains have different poultices. Acetone for instance is great for removing oil stains, but would not do anything to remove any other organic stains like berry juice or wine. Those kinds of stains require a poultice with Hydrogen Peroxide.

A poultice consists of two things: 1. A stain remover (acetone or Hydrogen Peroxide) and 2. A poultice medium (something that holds the stain remover on the stain and allows it to do its' magic) The poultice medium could be anything from clean white terry cloth, white paper towels, diatomaceous earth or flour to talcum powder. The main thing is that the medium should contain no dyes.

For a wine or juice stain, get some beauty shop grade hydrogen peroxide. The stuff they sell at the pharmacy for wound care is too diluted. Clean the affected area on your stone with acetone or alcohol to remove any sealer residue. The presence of a sealer will prolong the poulticing process. Make your poultice. The easiest way is just to use a wad of white, unprinted paper towels. Wet this with the peroxide and cover with saran wrap. Seal the edges of the wrap with blue tape to prevent premature evaporation of the active ingredient. Leave this to sit for at least over night. Remove the saran wrap and let the poultice dry. Remove the towels once they are totally dry. If the stain is severe, it might require more than one treatment to remove it. Clean the area with acetone or alcohol again once the stain is removed and reseal.

It is important not to use detergents on juice and wine stains. You might end up setting the stain. Remove the bulk of the spill with just straight cold water first.

There are commercialy available poultices and they vary in efficacy. SCI has some and some stone suppliers sell products like UNO and Mangia Macchia. We have used these with varying degrees of success. Be sure to read the instructions and indications to be sure that the poultice is effective for whatever stain you need to remove.

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clipped on: 09.27.2006 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2006 at 07:24 pm

RE: Appliance garage dimensions (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: karenforroses on 09.27.2006 at 10:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Mariposa! Here's some dimensions on the upper corner garage:
The inside opening is 13 l/2" Wide by 15 l/4" High.
The door is 14 l/2" wide by 18" high.
The garage is 24" deep from the back cornr to the door opening.
The width of the whole garage, back corner to back corner is 33 3/4".
Hope that helps. It holds, and hides, a lot!
The only thing I had to be careful about was to be sure to buy an electric coffee pot that was tall enough to fit through the door opening, without bumping it. We didn't have any problem finding one short enough, however, and it's still as 12 cupper.
I found before that the corner area of the counter was really wasted space, as it was too deep to use for work space. I also found that by getting an angled lower corner cabinet (vs. a 90" counter corner) I was able to get way more counter space and a much larger lazy susan.

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clipped on: 09.27.2006 at 07:11 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2006 at 07:12 pm

RE: Fluorescent recessed lighting. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: koodles on 09.27.2006 at 01:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We used Ruud. They came with the lamps (bulbs), but others that fit are available in different color temps. Don't know if they make dimmable ones. In our family room, we've divided them among two switches, so there are three possible combinations - switch A, switch B, or both at once for the most light (rarely used).

Trim - alzac clear.

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clipped on: 09.27.2006 at 01:53 am    last updated on: 09.27.2006 at 01:53 am

RE: California lighting (wish I were dreaming) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: solferino on 09.20.2006 at 12:21 am in Kitchens Forum

Depending upon what style you're going for, you may find something you like at Rejuvenation. They can make some, but not all their fixtures (and not any small pendants, as of the date I ordered), as compact fluorescents. There's a $40 upcharge.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rejuvenation's fluorescent options

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clipped on: 09.20.2006 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2006 at 09:32 pm

RE: Title 24 - I need flourescent lights - recessed & undercab (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: valinsv on 08.22.2006 at 12:03 am in Kitchens Forum

Title24 is a challenge, but it can be done. Basically, figure out what incandescent lights are most impt to you (i.e. a couple of decorative pendants, cans, rope lights, or Xenon--most likely you will only be able to put in one) and then balance that out with the fluorescents.

Unlike Joe had mentioned, we have designed our T24 compliant kitchen as one we are hoping to keep instead of putting up ugly, cheap fixtures and swapping out later. For us, we have a vaulted ceiling and the housing for flourescents was limited, so we choose to do incandescent cans (6 of them @ 50Watts each) and for the fluorescent quota: upper and lower T5's fluorescent lights (in warm white 3000) by Juno as well as a center decorative fluorescent fixture by Seagull. I have not been able to see the decorative fixture in person (haven't been able to find one) and am hoping that we will like it. Worse case, we will swap it out after the remodel has been signed off. Pegasus makes some really tiny T4's for under/over cabinet lights, but we decided against them as the T4 replacement bulbs were not readily available at the local lighting store of Home Depot. Another thing we are doing is to switch the nook lighting (3 more incandescent cans) separately on a dimmer and it does not count against the quota.

Here are links to what I mentioned:

Juno: http://www.junolighting.com/productinfo/prod_finder_item-fl.asp?Fid=F010&SFid=SF100&Cid=C0907&SCid=S09057

Seagull: http://www.seagulllighting.com/Energy-Star-Lighting.htm

Pegasus: http://www.pegasusassociates.com/MicrofluorescentT4.jsp

Gook luck!

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clipped on: 09.20.2006 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2006 at 08:51 pm

RE: California lighting (wish I were dreaming) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: catluvr on 09.19.2006 at 10:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there; there are a lot of people here who have dealt with this (or have recently finished). There are a LOT of manufacturers now who are doing T24 compliant fixtures that look more like regular fixtures (in addition to Seagull).

American Lighting
Thomas Lighting
Maxim Lighting
Forecast Lighting (found under Genlyte Group)

I know I'm missing some, but you might find something in these--check with your local lighting stores--I know a few here have found them helpful.

The 50% is factored by the total useable watts in the kitchen which means that the maximum wattage a fixture is allowed, regardless of what you ultimately put in it, is what is counted towards the total.

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RE: who online has the best selection of glass tile mosaics? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dmlove on 08.11.2006 at 04:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Look at susanjablon.com and maestromosaics.com.

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clipped on: 08.12.2006 at 02:38 am    last updated on: 08.12.2006 at 02:38 am

RE: Are there any white sink finishes that are more resistant?? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: terracotta on 08.10.2006 at 01:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Copy and paste these links to your browser address bar:

http://www.styleathome.com/styleathome/client/en/HOMEGARDEN/DetailNews.asp?idNews=234043&idSM=468

http://www.decorativeplumbing.com/faq-sinks.htm

http://www.demesne.info/Improve-Your-Home/Kitchen-Sinks.htm

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/12803.shtml

http://www.familyhomeplans.com/document_display.cfm?document_id=41

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clipped on: 08.10.2006 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2006 at 07:49 pm

RE: need help finding travertine looking porcelain tile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gibby3000 on 08.01.2006 at 07:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try Casa Dolce Casa. I originally wanted limestone but decided at the last minute that I wanted something more impervious like porcelain. I got Casa Dolce Casa Aurinia. Mine is a lighter ivory color but it looks like they have others that have more of the gold tones you are looking for. It's not quite as beautiful as the real stone but it was the best looking porcelain that I found.

Here is a link that might be useful: Casa Dolce Casa

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clipped on: 08.02.2006 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2006 at 02:59 pm

RE: need help finding travertine looking porcelain tile (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trubee on 08.01.2006 at 07:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Arizona Tile (many locations and they do ship)is one place to look - I know I saw it there. Also check out www.stonelocator.com! Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Arizona tile

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RE: Caesarstone in SF Bay Area (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: solferino on 06.27.2006 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Gail,

I'm in San Jose and got quotes on Misty Carrara from a few places. I went to check out the stone at Design 101 (at Saratoga and Lawrence) and got a quote from them although our cabinetmaker said they would be expensive. Don't know anything about them -- just got a quote because I was curious and it was the first place I looked. Their price was shockingly high, I suppose because they have to pay the rent on that huge showroom somehow.

Vent-A-Hood in Hayward had a Caesarstone counter in a display and it was really well done -- the name of their fabricator is AG Natural Stone (510) 324-8359. His quote was about 40% lower than Design 101.

Someone else here recommended Stone Etc., also in Hayward. I can't track down their quote so don't have their phone number handy. Their quote was about 30% lower than Design 101.

I haven't called this guy yet, but the branch manager at Walker Zanger referred me to Set Right Tile (also in Hayward, I think -- I've misplaced his card on my desk someplace -- it's a zoo here) as a great fabricator for Okite (pretty much the same thing as Caesarstone). I'm sure if he does Okite, he can also do Caesarstone.

I did call a bunch of other fabricators on whom I had recommendations -- almost all said they only do "natural stone".

Good luck -- if you find someone else, let me know. We're probably going with engineered stone, but don't know which one. I had decided on Caesarstone but then I saw the Okite and now... not so sure any longer.

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clipped on: 07.03.2006 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2006 at 09:46 pm

RE: Are Marble, Limestone or Travertine practical in the shower? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: garycook on 02.25.2006 at 12:20 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I agree with Bill.I am probably the king of rectified porcelain in my 2 baths. The look is similiar to natural stone,maybe not quite as warm looking but beautiful just the same. I had travertine and tumbled marble in my master bath and for me was just too much maintenance. I did use limestone for my kitchen floor though,just could find anything that had that kind of beauty.If you like stone and can find a good porcelain knockoff I would consider it.
Some brands to look at are Laufen,Graniti Fiandre and Graniti Marmi,they are all italian and top quality.

Gary

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