Question for those with deep sinks, like 10 inch undermounts. Is it still possible to have clearance for a garbage disposal? I am noticing that the one I have in no way would have clearance unless I cut a hole in the cabinet base. Is there a special disposal that everyone uses?

Thanks.
-Eve

Everyone says to use caulk where the tile meets the granite to seal the seam. But before the tiling, was your granite caulked to the wall? Right now my granite counter is installed but there is no caulk to the wall. Is this normal?

GC is pushing the 3" granite backsplash. I'm arguing against it. His comment continues to be that you need the granite splash to keep the water out. So I'm doing the research so when I tell him not to put in the backsplash, I can make sure it's done correctly.

DH likes the granite idea too, but we went out to find a different backsplash tile and DH picked it out and now he is seeing the beauty of no granite on the backsplash. I want to make sure we don't get water behind the cabinets.

Thanks!

I have cherry cabinets with volga blue granite. The walls are a light grey (reads a bit blue). I like the wall color. Love the granite. Originally I was thinking a carrara marble subway tile might work, but it seems too white. I also looked at glass tiles, but not sure I like any of the colors. So I'll post photos and would love your thoughts and ideas.

Also, my GC wants me to do a 4" granite backsplash. I don't see how that would work well with tile on top. I think he loves the look of the granite and wants to see it on the wall.

Peninsula:

Kitchen (in progress)

marble backsplash idea

glass tile ideas

marble/tile shot

Other ideas are most welcome. I'm getting tired of looking at tile. I am also trying to pick out tile for two bathrooms so I'm really hoping to make some decisions soon.

Thanks for any and all ideas!

Help! Granite disaster?

This week, the fabricator and KD are coming out to try to remedy the situation. I'm concerned that they will say this is the best that can be done on Volga Blue. It would be a HUGE help if I had pictures of good Volga Blue seams as proof that theirs was a substandard job.

Will you please share with me closeups of your good Volga Blue seams? Thanks so much!

Granite seam:

Cooktop cutout:

What has been your experience on how this type of backsplash holds up to cooking, grease, splashes, etc. I will seal the marble and the research I've done shows that sealing it will help keep it looking good. I've found more information on marble countertops than actual marble backsplashes in use (lots of pretty pictures, though).

Thanks for any information on marble backsplashes in action. My granite will be volga blue, my walls are a light gray, and I think this might work for my backsplash!

The lights are GMLighting Larc3 LED dimmable -so yes they are hard wired. We needed to use a transformer for the lights. The lights are white but dim nicely and are 3000K
Initially, we had them flush against the trim - but we had shadows and Sparky moved them back about an inch so the lights are centered 1.5 inches from the trim

The plug mold came from Sparky aka electrician. They are standard GFCI strips and GC built a 45+/- strip to mount them.
I think you can see the a bit of the 45 degree angle strip if you look closely.
Sparky also used "conduit" to hide the wires as well.
I didn't like the industrial look of the angle plug mold that I saw. My only regret - I left a couple plugs in the backsplash.
Note the trim hides the lights completely (except for one bridge due to a cold air return in the wall - but only kids or shorter peeps will notice it)

For the lighting in the glass cabinet - we used Kimberly triple bright LED tape light with a dimmer. It was supposed to be single bright but it was backordered, so they gave us the triple bright at the same price.

The last of our LED lights are in the sunroom - we used Kimberly triple bright tape lights in this area also.

For the rest of the kitchen, we used 5 inch cans with Cooper LED kits and Lutron dimmers. The incandescent lighting is by Hubbardton Forge

Could you please include the name and color of your backsplash along with the name and color of your grout?

Thanks in advance.

OK, here is my finished yellow kitchen thread! Can't believe it is here!
I can't thank ALL of you enough (or at least those who shared in my vision!) for all the help. Like most of us I really spent so much time on every decision. I joke that nothing happened by accident.
There are so many of you that contributed your thoughts and ideas but I want to especially thank lavender_lass and marcolo for all of their wise words and helping me find and stay true to my vision.
I found the hardest part of renovating is not going off track every time you have to make a decision and not letting others sway you to do things you really don't want to do!

What is NOT finished:
*Still waiting on banquette bench for between the 2 built-ins
*New Dining Table
*2 ends of the Backsplash Tile are not installed yet b/c they were sent back to manufacturer to get a bull-nosed edge.
*Custom light switch cover to match BS tile.
*Deciding on window treatments-whether or not to do them...

Specifics:

*Custom Cabinetry- Cabinet Maker in PA.
Perimeter is 36" finished, island is 34" high, baking area 33" high

*Colors of Cabinetry- BM Barley 199, BM Mascarpone AF-20 Cabinets were finished with a catalyzed lacquer (not paint) and clear top coat.

*Wall Paint- Kitchen- BM Elephant Tusk OC-8
Dining Area/Living Room BM Woodlawn Blue HC-147
Living Room BM Putnam Ivory HC-39

*Countertops- Vermont Imperial Danby Marble 3cm (purchased from PMI in NJ); Black Walnut 2" Thick Island Top finished with Satin Waterlox (constructed by our Cabinet Maker)

*Island Size is 9 feet x 51 inches *We keep 5 stools at the island but 6 fit fine (2 at the end)

*Appliances-
Thermador CIT365GM 36" Induction Cooktop (mirrored finish)
Electrolux Icon Double Ovens- Professional Series E30EW85GPS6
Electrolux Icon French Door Fridge- Professional Series E23BC68JPS5
Bosch 800 Plus Dishwasher- SHV7ER53UC
Miele H4080BM Speed Oven
Marvel 60RDEBBO Fridge Drawers

*Floors- Red Oak finished with Minwax Provincial Stain and Vermeister Commercial Finish Poly. Matte

*Hardware-
Renovation Hardware Gilmore Cup Pulls in Chrome
Top Knobs Cabinet Latches in Chrome
Emtek Old Town Clear Knob in Chrome
Schaub & Company 6" Chrome Pulls and 12" pull for Dishwasher

*Lighting-
UCL & In Cabs- Seagull LED lights 3000K temp
Drum Pendants- Lamps Plus
5 light Chandelier- Visual Comfort- Michael S Smith Eiffel Chandelier in Polished Nickel

*Sinks-
Main- Kohler Whitehaven K-6489 36" Apron Front Cast Iron Sink
Prep- Kohler K-6584 Iron/Tones Cast Iron Sink

*Faucets-
Main- Moen Woodmere in Chrome S7208C
Prep- Moen Woodmere Prep Faucet in Chrome S6208C
Soap dispensers- Moen
Pot Filler- Moen Showhouse

*Insinkerator Evolution Essential Disposal
Insinkerator Instahot Faucet F-HC2215 Chrome
Insinkerator SST-FLTR

*Backsplash by Wizard Tile
Design is Ribbons & Feathers with Crackle Glaze in Custom Color

*Stools- Counter Height from Grandinroad

BEFORE: This project included pushing out the entire back of our 1950 Cape 7 feet. Also, removing about 5' of our living room wall which involved moving the basement steps over. Removing a wall between the dining room and kitchen, adding a covered porch. We also did all new siding and other exterior things but I'll stick to inside.

Kitchen was originally a galley measuring about 19' x 9 1/2'. Dining Room was about 8 1/2' wide. Now it's really one large room 28' x 16 1/2'. Kitchen side alone is 16' x 16 1/2'

Choosing reveal photos was worse than narrowing down pics for our Wedding Album! SO sorry in advance for the quantity! Hopefully you'll never have to ask me for more pics : )

AFTER:

BAKING AREA SIDE OF KITCHEN:

Most of my drawers like these are adjustable which I'd highly recommend. If they weren't I wouldn't have been able to remove partitions to fit taller pieces.

Key Cabinet

My KitchenAid

COOKTOP SIDE OF L:

THERMADOR INDUCTION COOKTOP--

CORNER:

SINK WALL:

DISH DRAWERS & DISHWASHER:

COUNTER HEIGHT WINDOW BUMP OUT:

TV Pocket Doors Over Fridge

ISLAND:

Thanks, Breezy : )

Storage at Back of Island (Shelves are 9 1/2" deep)

NOW GOING TO THE RIGHT OF THE SINK/FRIDGE WALL into Dining Area:

6" DEEP BROOM CLOSET

LOOKING FORWARD TO SPRING/SUMMER VIEWS:

MY ORGANIZATIONAL SPOT (cork back, file drawer, printer, BluRay player, desk items, charging drawer)

WHERE BANQUETTE BENCH WILL BE:

BAR AREA:

REFRIGERATOR DRAWERS:

CUSTOM SLIDING DOORS-- These were at one point supposed to be pocket doors but I didn't want to close off views by having 3' of wall pocket on either side so came up with this which is working well at blocking sound but still gives an open feeling to the space.
I also love the 3 lights on the top so it's less busy and easier to clean!

INTO LIVING ROOM:

LIVING ROOM LOOKING INTO KITCHEN:

The blue looks brighter than it does IRL:

A FEW LAST SHOTS...

THANK YOU GW for this FUN, FULFILLING, (and often STRESSFUL) Experience : )
Fishies

Here is a link that might be useful: PART 1 of REVEAL

This post was edited by 2LittleFishies on Sun, Feb 10, 13 at 22:28

I can't believe it is almost a year since we signed the contract with the KD and GC. I only wish I had found GardenWeb before I signed the dotted line as I might have done a few things differently.
I hoped to create a web page or a story but decided just to do it in GW. I hope to have a finished kitchen link downstream. Sorry for so many pictures but I did trim it down!

The GardenWeb community was wonderful and so helpful in my decisions (outside of the design as this was done already). Gardenwebbers helped me with my backsplash, deciding on the pull out pantry, decorative lights and so much more. I know many of you have seen the kitchen on various posts but hoping this pulls it together.
I know I have a much better kitchen due to the GW. Thank you!

The original kitchen had contractor Merillat cabinets, Formica countertops, soffits, range with OTR Microwave and Adobe colored light fixtures. The sunroom had some old This End Up furniture.

The workflow was terrible - to empty the dishwasher, I had to go to 3 locations and I didn't really have any zones although technically, there was a triangle. I wanted more creativity in the design, but ended up staying relatively linear as I looked at adding a peninsula but didn't like how it closed in the room.

Our goals for our kitchen were basic - we were not planning on tearing down any walls, so we had the same basic footprint with modifications to enhance workflow. We wanted a warm and welcoming kitchen with quality full height cabinets, lower drawers, an induction cooktop, downdraft exhaust*, wall oven, quartz countertop, under cabinet lighting, and LED lights on dimmers where possible. We were also planning to re-use the hardwood floor. *Decided against this option and went with a hood). I also wanted to avoid box stores as much as possible, so most items were sourced from small businesses or small chains. The

The major changes were: removed soffits, switched range to cooktop and moved to opposite end of kitchen, removed desk and added wall and speed ovens, added a pocket door to the original pantry, and created a functional and fun sun room.

Before

After
href="http://s1072.beta.photobucket.com/user/a2gemini/media/Kitchen/IMG_7308.jpg.html" target="_blank">

Before

After

Cabinets: Brookhaven Autumn Cherry with a black glaze
Pulls: Baldwin Brass 5 and 8 inch arch pulls in antique brass
Countertop: Cambria Buckingham
Sink: Blanco Silgranit Cascade Divide Cafe Brown
Backsplash: Grazia Rixi Crema, Beach mosaic, and 2x2 accent pieces
Paint - BM Coastal Path and trim is Mascarpone
Faucet: Waterstone PLP 5400 Antique Brass
Soap Dispenser: Waterstone Antique Brass
Cooktop: Wolf Induction 36 inch
Hood: Broan Evolution 3
Oven: Wolf E series
Speed Oven: GE Advantium (Monogram)
Refrigerator: Re-use Electrolux
Dishwasher: Re-use Miele
Disposer: 1 HP Insinkerator Evolution
Can Lights: Cooper RL07 3000K LED dimmable
Under Counter lights: GM Lighting LARC bars 3000K dimmable
Cabinet lighting: Kimberly triple bright dimmable tape lighting
Decorative lights: Hubbardton Forge
Rev-A-Shelf cutlery tray
Wusthoff double knife block
Lee Valley spring dividers(but ended up not using most of them)
Garden Window -put in about a year before the project but wish I had waited and put in a flush mount - I still might check to see if I can put in a Cambria seat.
Plug Mold: This was basic plug mold and the GC built an angle trim to mount.
GM LARC bars and Plug Mold - we did need to move the LED bars back as initially we had shadows
Now you can see the lights and plugmold - note the conduit to hide the wires..

Now you don't

What do I love about my new kitchen? Just about everything! I love the drawers, the full height cabinets, the UC lighting, the glass cabinet, my Waterstone faucet and most of all - the workflow!
I can now open the dishwasher and empty everything in the same area. From there, everything is close to the dining room for serving. I can organize and serve without feeling fragmented. I love my small bake zone and having a wall oven that I don't have to lean way down to get items out of it!

I also like my Spice Stack - it takes up so little room and I can use regular bottles

I love just sitting in the sun room and reading my "Nook" in my nook. My DH loves his new cave and the add on pull out pantry next to the refrigerator and the pocket door.

I am also having fun with my label maker - it almost makes me look organized!

What would I do differently? I think I would have looked into custom cabinets with plywood construction (still working on the broken drawer issue). In the bake area - I would have put deeper base and upper cabinets and throughout the kitchen might have gone with deeper uppers. An air switch for the disposer and one less outlet(If I used the air switch, I didn't need the switch and would have deleted the switch outlet to the left of the sink). I would have used 6 inch cans - at the time, I was going to use LED bulbs which fit better in 5 inch cans but the integrated LED cans are harder to find in 5 inch versions. I had to ditch my pegboard drawer insert due to the weight factor. I would not have ordered the Brookhaven knife insert - it was a total waste but maybe I can use it for a cutting board if I flip it over.
Lastly, I wouldn't try to do this again while changing jobs after 32 years, dealing with DM health issues from long distance, and trying to train for a marathon. (The marathon was nixed)

Sources:
Ktichen Cabinets: Chelsea Lumber Company, Chelsea, Michigan
Faucet and Hardware: The Compleaat Baldwin Brass Center, West Reading PA
Field and Mosaic tile: Tile-Shop.com in Califorinia (not Tileshop.com in Michigan - they are unrelated!
Accent Tiles: Malsnee Tile in Reading PA
New Appliances: Heydlauff Appliance, Chelsea MI
Decorative Lights - Gross Electric, Ann Arbor
General Contractor: Bill Brushaber, Manchester, MI
Counter Installer: Blasius, Inc Vassar MI

Here are some drawer pictures
Under cooktop - would have used a false top drawer connected to this one to allow taller pots and fry pans - but love the sideways storage - and I can move the dividers or remove some

Knife drawer with Wustoff knife block

Silverware drawer with Rev-a-shelf insert - how long will the silverware stay this organized!

China drawer - turned out too much weight for the cabinet constructions - so will be modifying this a bit - and won't be using the pegboard..

Gadget drawer - I have made some modifications since the picture was taken but you get the idea - this was compliments of Grumpy Dave and his MadeSmart bins

The towels even have a home- still need to identify a towel rack for drying - I tend to use the towels and then into the wash.

Here is what is hidden in the angle cabinet - I moved the vinegars up to the first shelf - so my DH has to share the space...

This is my skinny cabinet - I was going to switch out to 2 drawers but it works great as is - OK, I was previously busted for having too many cutting boards -but it keeps them all in place perfectly!

Most GW don't like blind corners - but it was already a done deal when I found you - so I made the best of it for now - there is a post where someone built their own turntables - I might do that downstream - but the upper 2 cabinets have turntables to improve access.

I do have a SuperSusan in the corner - keep my most used items on the left and then I only open the first door and snag them - If I need to rotate - then I open it completely.

And I can hide a few items in the corners..

Here are a few pictures of the sunroom - I refer to the cabinets on the ends as the his and her "caves" -Now DH has a place for his toys - the cabinet has power in it to charge electronics and note there are also plugs under the bench for power. The back of the bench back has a piano hinge so we can fold down the back if we want more air flow. The table rises up and moves closer to the bench seat for a cozy breakfast or dinner.

Table up!

The one drawer on each cave is a work space - it is just a big cutting board - but a nice feature.

View from my nook - I wish I had snagged a picture with all of the red leaves - but next year, I will be ready!

What is left - just a few odds and ends - I need to have the hanging light adjusted for proper height, a few light switches to swap. I am also thinking of a Boos kitchen cart - I found one on that looks like it might just work.

Thank you again for helping me along the process. I met so many new friends and hope to meet some of you in person downstream.

As far as the grout color - I tried 3 colors and other than the name (Hemp, from Laticrete) I have NO idea which one on the sample board that it corresponds to! It was one of the lighter ones, I know that. And it was not the far right one, that was Tech mocha, which I tried and it had just a little mauve hue.

Anyway it's in and we are thrilled. Thanks for all of the help and opinions!

Do you like the look of two pulls/drawer on wider drawers? If so, you could get all one size and put one on drawers less than, say, 30" and two on any 30" or wider. You usually do not have to worry about pulling a drawer unevenly with two pulls. As long has you have good quality drawer hardware, you shouldn't have any problems.

We put knobs on doors and our 6" pullouts and pulls on all other pullouts and all drawers. In our case, we put one on drawers < 30" and two on drawers >= 30". I think the 2-pull look looks more like fine furniture, and I happen to like the look. If I had it to do over, I think I might have put two pulls on the 27" drawers... As to the 6" pullouts, our pulls (5") were too wide to fit horizontally and I don't like the look of vertical pulls, so we went with knobs.

We store heavy pots & pans and heavy glass dishes in many of the two-pull drawers. I usually use just one hand/pull to open drawers and have not yet hand any issues.

If you prefer one pull/drawer, then most will look fine on the drawer widths you listed; none are that wide. I suggest picking a medium-sized pull and just using the same size. You can drive yourself crazy scouring the net and stores looking for the same pull in various sizes.

Whatever you choose, I suggest only purchasing two or three of them and them mocking them up on your drawers to see (1) which look you prefer, (2) how you want to place them, and (3) whether they fit your hands and/or fingers (i.e., comfort).

We ended up with two different manufacturers for our knobs & pulls (both birdcage in antique iron) b/c the knobs in one (Dec Har) fit our hands better (the stem was a little longer) and the pulls in the other (Siro) had nicer curves.

Bottom line....what looks are you drawn to? That will tell you how you should place your hardware.

I do have a pic of how I placed my knobs...

As to our pulls, we centered them on the drawers fronts, except the trash pullout. The pull on the trash pullout is on the frame. Some pics of drawers of similar size to yours:

24", one pull per drawer:

27", one pull per drawer

30" drawers, two pulls per drawer (6" pullout w/knob on the right)

31" drawer (1), two pulls per drawer (another 6" pullout w/knob on the left)

33", two pulls per drawer (18" trash pullout to the right)

Okay, here we go. These questions come from the thread on the discussions side where I solicited questions from everyone for this thread. These are in the order they were asked:

Q) What are the different types of tiles you can use in a bathroom and what are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

A) There are several types of tile available. They fall into two general groups: ceramic and natural stone. I'll take these one at a time:

Ceramic tile-- For purposes of this discussion, there's glazed conventional, unglazed porcelain, and glazed porcelain. All three are good tiles for bathroom use, but the porcelain is a better choice only because of its density and lack of water absorbsion, which makes upkeep and cleaning easier. Also, with reference to steam showers, you DO NOT want to use natural stone, being that the steam would tend to permeate into the stone even more readily than liquid water, and could end up giving you algae problems, as well as mold and mildew problems, unless you don't mind being tied down to your bathroom.

Natural Stone-- There are several types of stone that are used in bathrooms. It doesn't necessarily mean that they're all GOOD IDEAS for bathrooms, expecially the softer (and more absorbant) stones, such as slate or limestone. Now, I know I'm going to get a world of flack about this from epople who have bathrooms finished in these materials. I know they CAN be used.... so long as you're aware of the extra upkeep involved. But if you're someone who doesn't like to keep after things, you may want to pick an easier material to maintain. Generally speaking, the softer the stone, the more the upkeep. Limestone being the softer of the stones, and that would include travertine, next would be many slates (although some would actually be harder than even most marbles, such as brazilian and british slates), then marbles, with quartzite and granite rounding off the list as the harder and more dense stones that you could use.

Q) What should I be sure to look for when choosing tile for a bathroom?

A) Short answer-- something that you like! The bathroom is the one place that just about anything the showroom has can be used. The only limitations are basically the upkeep you want to put in, and slip resistance on the floors of your bathroom and shower. Now, although ceramic tile is basically maintenence free, you don't want to use something with a texture to it that will catch all kinds of junk in the shower, making it more difficult to keep clean. At the same time, you don't want to use a polished stone or bright glazed ceramic tile for the shower floor, either. These both CAN be used, but again, it comes down to upkeep for textured wall tile, and doing something to rectify the slippery floor.

Q) Where should I use tile and where not?

A) Tile can be used on every single surface in the bathroom, if that's what you like. This is all a matter of taste... for the most part. About the only place where there's a requirement is any place there's a showerhead involved. If tile is to be used either in a shower or a tub/ shower combo, The tile MUST go up to a minimum of 72" off the floor. Past that, it's up to the disgression of the owner.

Q) What size tile and what layout patterns to use in various areas?

A) Again, this is a subjective question that can really only be answered by the owner. The ONLY place where there's a recommendation for mechaincal reasons is on a shower floor. TCNA recommends that mothing bigger than 6" be used on shower floors due to the cone shape of the floor's pitch. In addition, most installers will request no bigger than 4", and prefer a 2x2 tile to work with on the shower floor. This is also advantageous to the homeowner who'll be showering in there, because the added grout joints will add more traction to the floor.

Now, I've heard many times that you shouldn't use large format tiles in a small area like a powder room floor, and if you have a wide open bathroom, you don't want to use real small tiles. My response to both is the same-- HORSEHOCKEY. I've done bathrooms both ways-- 24x24 diagonal in a 3' wide powder room, and 1" hex ceramic mosaics in an open 100 sq. ft. bathroom floor. The rule of thumb is if you like it, it's right!

Q) How do I find/choose someone to install the tile?

A) Many people will tell you to get names from the showroom you get your tile from. This is no good, unless the showroom is willing to take responsibility for the installer by either having them on payrool, or as a subcontract. Then they have something to lose if they give you a bad installer. Many people will also tell you to get references and to actually check them out. This ALSO doesn't work. I've been in this work for just under 30 years now, and I've yet to find a single installer who ever gave the name of someone they had a problem with. They say even a blind squirrel will find a nut once in a while. The same can be said for "fly-by-nights" and good work.

So if you can't trust recommendations, and checking references is a lost cause, what do you do? REVERSE THE PROCESS!! Instead of finding an installer and getting references, get references, and thru them, find your installer!! No matter where you live, if you drive around, you'll find constructions sites and developements. Stop and ask who the GC uses. Get a name and phone number. Sooner or later, after asking around enough, you're going to find that the same names will begin to show up time and time again. THESE are the guys you want to use. But don't expect a bargain price, and be prepared to wait, because these guys will be in high demand, even in the worst of times, and they may demand a bit higher price, but they'll be worth every penny, if for no other reason, just because of the peace of mind they'll give you in knowing you're getting a good quality installation. Ask anyone who's gone through this experience, good or bad-- that alone is worth its weight in gold.

Q) What are the proper underlayments for tile?

A) There are several, and I'll take them one at a time:

CBU (cementitious Backer Units)-- This is the term that generally covers all cement boards (such as Wonderboard or Durock) or cement fiber boards (such as Hardibacker). This is the most common used tile underlayment. Generally speaking, it comes in two thicknesses-- 1/2" and 1/4"-- and each has its use. !/2" must be used for wall installations, due to the fact that the 1/4" is way too flimsy with nothing to back it up, and would flex too much to last. Besides, the 1/2" CBU will usually match up nicely to most sheetrocks. The 1/4" is used for floor installations, unless the added height of the 1/2" is needed to match up to other floorings. Being that neither has very much structural strength, so long as the subfloor is 3/4" or more, the 1/4" CBU is all that's needed. Keep in mind that even though it's basically fiberglass reinforced concrete, the only thing it adds to the floor is a stable bonding surface, so the 1/4" will do just fine. One place where alot of contractors will try and shortcut is by using greenboard instead of CBU for shower walls. This is expressly forbidden in the IRC (International Residential Code) by the following code:

IRC Greenboard Code:
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in
Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat
gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325
or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers�
recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in
tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas."

The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that
"Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall
not be used where there will be direct exposure to water."

Membranes-- There are several around that work well over many different surfaces. Most of them are what's called "Crack Isolation Membranes". Just about every manufacturer has one, from trowel ons or roll ons, such as Hydroment's Ultraset or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban, to sheet membranes such as Noble's CIS membrane. All will give the tile a little more protection against movement than just going over CBU. However, there's another class of membranes called "uncoupling membranes" of which the most popular by far is Schluter's Ditra, that are made from bonding two layers together, usually a fabric fleece backing and a plastic sheeting with dovetailed waffling to "lock" the thinset in place ( as opposed to accepting a thinset BOND). These membranes will, as their name implies, uncouple their two layers in case of movement, to save the floor, and for thinset floors, it's the most protection you can give your tile floor.

Plywood-- This is one where I get the most flack. I'm one of a dying breed that still believes in tiling directly over plywood. However, I can very well understand the reluctance of the industry to embrace this installation method, even though the TCNA DOES approve of its use for interior installations (Those with a handbook can check Method F-149). The reason I say that is it's a very "tempermental installation method. You need to be very familiar with what you're doing, or you risk failure. There are even many pros I wouldn't trust to tile using this method. Everything you do is important, from the species of plywood used, to the direction the grain is laid with relation to the joists, to how it's gapped, and a host of other specs, as well-- many of which won't be found in the handbook, and if you miss just one of them, you're flirtin with disaster. All in all, when people ask me about it, I tell them that with the membranes available, there's no need to go directly over plywood. There are other methods that will give you just as long lasting a floor, and aren't NEARLY as sensitive.

Mudset-- This is the oldest, and still, after THOUSANDS of years of use, the strongest installation method available. In a mudset installation, a minimum of 1 1/4" of mortar called "drypack" (mixed to the consistancy of damp sand) is either bonded to a concrete slab, or laid down over tarpaper or 6 mil poly with wire reinforcement, packed, and then screaded off to flat level (or pitched) subfloor. This is what most people see when tiling a shower pan. Initially, the mud will be a somewhat soft subfloor. But over time, if mixed properly, it'll be stronger than concrete.

Q) What are the proper tile setting compounds?

A) This is one where I could write a book. It all depends on what kind fo tile you're installing, and what the underlayment is that you're going over. I'll give a generalized list:

Polymer/ latex modified thinset: For all intents and purposes, this is the "cure-all". For almost any installation the modified thinset, which is basically portland cement, silica sand, and chemical polymers added for strength, will work. There are some that are specialized, such as the lightweight non-sag thinsets (such as Laticrete's 255 or Mapei's Ultralite), or the high latex content thinsets (like Latictrete's 254 Platinum or Hydroment's Reflex), but with the exception of going over some membranes, there's a modified thinset for every installation.

Unmodified thinset: This is the same as above, but with no polymers added. It's usually used in conjunction with a liquid latex additive, but will also be used mixed with water for going over some membranes. It's also used as a bedding for all CBU's.

Medium Bed Mortars-- This is a relatively new class of setting mortars, used mainly for large format tiles, where the normal notched trowels just don't put down enough material, and with thinset, it would be too much, causing too much shrinkage as it dries, causing voids under, and poor bond to, the tile, but at the same time, there's not enoough room for a mudset installation. This mortar is usually used with either a 1/2x1/2" or 1/2x3/4" notched trowel.

Mastics and Premixed Thinsets: THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! Let me say that again-- THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! They work well for vertical installations, where the tile used is 8x8 or less, and it's not a wet area. ALL THREE of those conditions must be met!! I know just about every pail of type 1 mastic says it can be used in showers except for the floor. DON'T BELIEVE IT!! Also, both mastic and premixed thinset (which is just mastic with a fine sand mixed in to give it bulk) claim they can be used for floor installations. Unfortunately, for the amount of material needed under virtually all floor tiles to bond to the subfloor, neither of these will fully harden. I had a personal experience where I helped a sister in law across country, telling her husband exactly how to do his main floor, what to use, and how to use it. Unfortunately, he went to the big box store to get his tile and materials, and they talked him into using premixed thinset. I didn't hear about it until SIX MONTHS LATER when his tile and grout joints started showing cracks all over the floor. When he called me I asked him what he used for thinset, and sure enough, this is when he told me. I told him to pull one of the tiles, and SIX MONTHS LATER, IT WAS STILL SOFT!!! DOn't let them talk you into it!! Use the proper thinset, and don't try and shortcut your installation. You're spending alot of money for it to be "just practice"!!

Q) How do you deal with different thicknesses of tile?

A) Whatever it takes. I've used membranes, built up the amount of thinset being used, I've even doubled up tiles when it worked out that way. Whatever it takes to get the two tiles to be flush toeach other.

Q) What are the typical tools required to lay tile?

A) Generally speaking, this is a list for just about all installations. Some may require specialized tools, but this would be for all:

Proper sized notched trowel
measuring tape
chalk line
margin trowel
nippers
high amp low speed drill and mixing paddle (best would be 6 amp or better and less than 400 rpm)
several buckets
score and snap cutter for straight ceramic cuts
4 1/2" grinder with a continuous rim dry diamond blade for ceramic, anything other than straight cuts
wet saw (can be used for ALL cuts, ceramic or stone)
grout float
hydra grout sponges (2-- once for grouting, one for cleaning)
24" and 48" levels (for vertical work)
heavy duty extension cords
KINEE PADS!! :-)
screwgun or nailgun (where CBU will be used)

Q) What about tile spacing and tpes of grout?

A) According to Dave Gobis from the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation in Pendleton, South Carolina, there will finally be a new standard for ceramic tile next year. The tolerances are shrinking. There will also be a standard for rectified tile. Along with that, there will be a revision to the installation standards that will specifically recommend a grout joint no less than 3 times the variation of the tile. For rectified tile the minimum grout joint width will be .075 or just over a 1/16".

As for grout, there's only one thing that determines whether you use sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the grout joint. Anything less than 1/8" you use unsanded grout. 1/8" or larger, you need to use sanded grout. The reason is that the main ingredient in grout is porland cement, which tends to shrink as it dries. In joints 1/8" or larger, the grout will shrink way too much and end up cracking ans shrinking into the joint. The sand give the grout bulk, and the sanded grout won't shrink nearly as much and therefore, can be used in the larger joints.

Here is our original floor plan

And some pictures of the original kitchen

Our new floor plan

New Kitchen
View from dining area

New Island

Silgranit Performa Medium Sink and Grohe LadyLuxe3 faucet

Bosch 500 series custom panel dishwasher

So easy to unload dishes into drawer

36 inch dish drawer

Rev-a-Shelf Pullout Trash

Backside of island-Cabinet maker surprised us by adding small display shelves

Tech Lighting Otto Pendants give off nice diffused light

GE Profile Oven and GE Advantium Speed Cook Oven

Above oven storage

Glass,stone and stainless back splash and Dacor Renaissance
Cooktop

Close up view of tile- 21Century - Shamrock Shake Multi

Verde Peacock Granite

Love my Venta Hood Model ZTH

Pantry Pull Outs- surprised how much this small pantry holds

Spice drawer thanks to Breezy

Carpenter shortened drawer and cut down drawer sides to clear cooktop

Angled Cabinets on each side of oven cabinet actually store lots of items

Samsung Counter Depth Refrigerator

Kichler DesignPro LED Under cabinet lighting- Don't know how I lived without it before

Kitchen Sitting Area- These swivel gliders are so comfy

Dining Area

Kichler Quinn Chandelier

New China Cabinet

Close up of cabinet hardware- Hickory Hardware Greenwich Collection

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

• Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

  Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.



• Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.


• Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.
  • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
  
  
  • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
  
  
  • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
  
  
  • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.
  
  

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

• To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)


• Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.


• Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied


• Chips: Using something very hard & metal�hit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks

Measuring:

• Before the templaters get there...
  
  • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
  
  
  • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
  
  
  • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
  
  
  • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
  
  
  • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
  
  
  • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter
  
  
• If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them


• Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.


• Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

  Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement�and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!



• Factors determining seam placement:


• The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)


• Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available


• Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.


• Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.


• Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -


• Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.


• Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.


• Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece


• Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
  Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

Installation:

• Seams:
  

  One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

  
  
  • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
    
    • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
    
    
    • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
    
    
    • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
    
    
    • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
    
    
    • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
    
    
    • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
    
    
    • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

• Checklist:
  
  • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
  
  
  • Make sure the seams are butted tight
  
  
  • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks
  
  
  • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
  
  
  • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
  
  
  • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
  
  
  • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
  
  
  • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
  
  
  • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
  
  
  • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
  
  
  • Check for chips. These can be filled.
  
  
  • Make sure the top drawers open & close
  
  
  • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
  
  
  • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
  
  
  • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
  
  
  • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
    
    • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
    
    
    • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
    
    
    • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
    
    
    • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
    
    
    • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.
    
    
  • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
  
  
  • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

• More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
  If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam


• Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA


• When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.


• Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB


• Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!


• When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see


• Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)


• Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust


• If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.


• Suggested Prep for Installation:
  
  • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
  
  
  • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
  
  
  • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
  
  
  • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
  
  
  • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides
  
  
• Countertop Support:


• If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop


• If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required


• If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:


• Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino


• i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

Note that we put two pulls on all drawers 30" and wider. Others only put one pull on all drawers...if you go that route be sure the pulls are long enough so they don't look lost on the wider drawers.

bath

Here is a link that might be useful: Bertch Bath

Happy New Year and Best Wishes!
janealexa

Details:
Cabinets: Knotty Alder, custom cabinets with custom stains, highlighting details on island
Countertop: Tan brown granite with crescent edge, enhanced
Backsplash: AZ Tile tumbled camargo (travertine) 2x4, antique linen grout and caulk, light almond outlets/covers
Outlet covers on island/peninsula: unfinished wood covers that I bought from Home Depot and asked our cabinet maker to stain
Floor: White oak
Stovetop, telescoping downdraft, double wall oven: Kenmore Elite
Dishwashers, pantry refrigerator: Kenmore
Kitchen refrigerator: Whirlpool Gold
Sinks: Ticor
Faucets at both sinks: Delta Leland
Water filter faucet at prep sink: Aquasana
Soap dispensers at both sinks: Delta
Garbage disposals: ISE Evolution Pro Compact
Cabinet knobs: Amerock
Cabinet bin pulls: Cosmas
Trash pull-out pull: RK International
Counter stools: Hayneedle.com
Peninsula lights: Kichler Norwich
Breakfast nook light: Savoy House Oristano (discontinued)
Wall color: SW Kilim Beige
Ceiling/trim color: SW Alabaster
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Hardware on trash pull-out
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Pantry with pocket door, extra refrigerator in pantry
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Telescoping downdraft
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Outlet cover stained to match cabinets
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View into great room
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This post was edited by janealexa on Tue, Jan 1, 13 at 2:36

living room

What brand did you use and do you love it? SHOW PICTURES PLEASE.

THANKS SO MUCH!

- Small kitchen with small island
- Medium-dark cabinets
- Black appliances
- Fairly small backsplash area: 15 linear ft x 18" high, interrupted by window
- Plenty of natural light, which will make the blue flecks shine: Good-sized window above sink + bank of windows in adjacent eating area
- With my taste in other items leaning towards dark, I'm thinking that I want some glass-front cabinets to "lighten things up".

The above are fairly well set in stone -- fairly well being a vague, uncertain word meaning that I may well change my mind.

I've been kicking around the idea of white recycled glass countertops (I do adore the sparkle), but today I saw my friend's new Volga blue granite countertops, and they are gorgeous! Really, I'm not ga-ga over countertops, but these were incredible. Black at first glance, but they contain flecks of beautiful cobalt blue. I have no doubt that these are the most beautiful countertops I've ever seen.

I've been googling pictures of them, and they look great with dark cabinets . . . but what kind of backsplash? My thoughts:

- Okay, I have no serious thoughts. I'm not even sure whether I like the idea of dark or light overall.
- Although I love the look of glass tile, I am concerned about whether it'll look dated in 5-10 years. I'd like to avoid things along the lines of stacked glass tiles, fearing that they're a flash in the pan. I'd like something that's relatively classic.
- I do not like too modern or too stark; for example, stainless steel tiles are out.
- I do like white or off-white arabesque tiles, but I kind of think that'd "compete" with the countertop.
- I fear that plain subway tile isn't "enough" with such a great granite.
- I think I like the idea of something very basic with a small accent tile of color every so often . . . I could see perhaps a dark blue glass tile as an accent.

Your thoughts?

Also, with so much "dark" in the room, should I keep the floor light?

And I'm thinking of some blue pendants above the sink and island.

I still love those white recycled glass countertops . . . they might have to move to the bathroom.

Here is a link that might be useful: LED UCL DIY

We are planning on building in 2014. I am pretty sure the most expensive room in most houses is likely to be the kitchen due to appliances and cabinetry. That said we are on a modest budget and while I see sooo many cool things in all of these kitchens, reality is that *maybe* I'll be able to have just one. I haven't yet priced cabinets (need to post my layout for feedback first) but I have done enough appliance research to know that my kitchen will have to forego many of the 'latest and greatest'.

For some perspective - top of the line in my budget is likely along the lines of KitchenAid...

So - what is your favorite wouldn't give it up item, appliance or detail?

When I say that one splurge I am thinking along the lines of:

cabinet drawers instead of doors
tall uppers - to the ceiling?
range vent hood vs. microwave with vent above the stove
cooktop instead of stand alone stove
wall ovens instead of stove oven
warming drawer
dish drawers instead of regular dishwasher

If I missed something that is your personal favorite - please share it!

Thank you!

towels

Would you do it again?

beagles I think?-

We used Lutron matte black outlets and switches and had screwless wallplates made from our quartzite by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks (stonewallplates.com) and we are quite happy with the looks - especially since we have a bank of 6 light switches at one end of our backsplash near a door.

This is before the switch cover was added - mostly we have plugmold under cabinet but a few wall outlets near switches

Here are two of the doors opened:

And here it is where the third, hinged door is open:

As you can see, everything is very accessible.

Helene

I envy you who have a nice, big open concept kitchen. My house was built in 1911 and the kitchen is about 100 square feet. The only wall that I had an option to knock down has on the opposite side a beautiful built-in china cupboard, original to the house. Since it provides badly needed storage in the dining room, my GC and I decided to work with the original footprint, which was a challenge. I had very little counterspace and cabinets that didn't function (most boxes and bottles were too tall to fit in them). I couldn't wait to get started! Here are some "before" photos, as well as some taken during the demo phase (me, my sister and her family did the demo ourselves to save some money):

So here is the finished product. My budget was $25,000 and I stayed under it by a few hundred dollars.

Here are the specifics:

Cabinets: Pioneer semi-custom (style is raised Madison, in cherry, tawny stain)

Countertops: Blume's Keystone Quartz "Dakota Copper" (To say I LOVE this is an understatement. Here is a close-up photo:)

Sink: Silgranite

Faucet: Blanco "Torino"

Backsplash: Jeffrey Court Pietra Fire & Ice Quartz (enhanced)

Floor: DuPont Real Touch laminate

Refrigator: Samsung

Gas range, Microwave, Dishwasher: Bosch

Paint: Behr "Salmon Creek" and "Gallery White"

Valance: Lowe's

Windowsill: soapstone, original to the house

Thanks for all of the encouragement and inspiration I have received from this forum. You have been a Godsend. Special thanks to SoCalGal for info on the Fire & Ice quartz. It's so nice to have a modern, functional kitchen!

Here are some threads to check out:

Thread: Looking for granite fabricator in DC metro area
Thread: Countertops in Maryland
Thread: suburban Maryland granite yards, fabricators
Thread: Quartzite Yards in MD/DC/VA?
Thread: Granite fabs in NoVA?
Thread: Has Anyone Use ''Granite Source'' in Chatilly, VA?

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

First of all, I would like to thank all of you here on GW. Even though I did not post much for advice, many, many of our questions were answered through the thoughtful and kind guidance given to others who had the same concerns as we did. There was a whole world of things we hadn't even thought about, and things were much easier because you all shared your knowledge and experience with us who visit this forum. THANK YOU!

The last 3 houses we have lived in had builder's kitchens with white tile countertops and golden oak (in two) and natural maple (current) cabinets. After 22+ of basically the same thing, we were ready for a change. When the white range died, we replaced it with SS and got a new SS fridge to go with it. After we got it home, DH was not happy with the look of the gray "monolith", so decided to figure out a way to enclose it.

Our natural maple cabinets had yellowed considerably, but were in good shape, so we decided to do some alterations to them, refinish, and install new doors. One set of double cabinets on the right side of the refrigerator was removed and replaced with a new single uppper and lower. The refrigerator moved over to the right and a new enclosure for fridge and cabinets above and to the left were made. We couldn't recess the fridge any further because behind the fridge is the main bearing wall, and the stairwell and pantry are behind it. The cabinet and OTR microwave above the stove were replaced with a range hood. The lower cabinets on both sides of the stove were converted to drawers and a new cabinet with a trash pullout was built for the area to the left of the dishwasher, which also extended the countertop area. New crown molding and beaded molding were added to the top and bottom of the upper cabinets, and new panels added to the end of the island.

The cabinet rework was done by a contractor. We had another contracter in to do the refinishing. To make a long story a little shorter, he really botched the job and didn't want to fix it. Luckily, we had not paid him, and he hadn't done the doors yet. DH ended up taking all the cabinets out of the kitchen and sanding them down to remove the bad finish. We then re-installed them and got another cabinet finisher to do the job.

When the finishing was done, the original cabinet builder decided he was too busy to come in and install the doors/drawers/hardware, so we agreed that DH would do it and the contractor would not receive the balance of what we owed. After that, DH decided to install the range hood and backsplash himself. If you've ever done any of this yourself, you know it always takes longer than you hope to get it done.

Anyway, we are happy with it. A whole kitchen of new cabinets wasn't in the budget, so this is the next best thing. If we ever do this again, we'll have a much better plan in place before we start.

Cabinets - existing maple with new doors/custom stain
Range - GE Cafe
Refrigerator - LG 4-door French door
Dishwasher - Kitchen Aid
Range hood - Wolf
Coutertops - Seafoam green granite
Backsplash - Honed crema marfil 3 x 6 subway tile
Sink - Kraus 60/40 SS
Faucet - Delta Leyland
Floor - existing ceramic tile
Cabinet hardware - Schaub "French Farm" knobs, "Arcadia" pulls

Before:

New fridge cabinet:

After:

We have been ultra-satisfied with our decision to place the MW into a cabinet with a door on "garage door" hinges. Hidden when we want it to be, easily accessed when in use. Plus I love the Panasonic MW we got for under $200 (with true inverter technology) and will shed no tears if like most MW's it dies in a few years.

Example-

Today I had someone show me an Electrolux induction cooktop, and when I told them I didn't care for the stainless steel strips that separated the controls from the rest of the cooktop, I was told that "all inductions are made this way because you have to keep the controls away
from the magnetic burners or they will short out".

My KD told me they couldn't do a trash pullout under one side of the 36" sink cabinet unless they gave me 2 18" cabinets and notched the top to fit the sink. Yes, I'm still using her but questioning EVERYTHING.

More pictures on out of ABB club post!
Hope you are out soon!

Just a note: Once the tile was installed, she asked me to take a look and make sure I was happy with the color/texture balance. I took blue painter's tape and marked the tile pieces I didn't particularly care for. She then swapped them out with another piece the next morning.

"We installed your project with Custom's Stone set mortar [Thin set specific for stone]. This mortar is white and only comes in white. Stone and glass is never set with grey mortar. Also we do not use quick set as it dries to quickly. The glass pieces that were changed out for the strong colored ones may not have had netting on them. Also you had us switch a few of the other colors they may not have had net on them as well. When pieces are taken from the field mosaic they are cut out and changed.

It was a true pleasure doing your beautiful kitchen. Loved the new picture will have to add it to my website. Thank you so much for sending it. Haven't updated my site for several years and have done so many gorgeous jobs that need to go on it. Lots of glass. Never use a quick set on anything. It dries too quickly and can release down the line. Also stone should be sealed before grouting. Especially the material like yours as it is porous and grout leaves a film on it that cannot be removed but leaves it murky."

I do know whatever thinset my installer used was slow drying because I'm at the office all day and wouldn't see her work until late at night after she'd left. Good thing she did because I wasn't terribly happy with the way she ended the run. I redesigned the "waterfall" look and she was able to redo the pieces the next morning though she had to pull about 18" of tile, recut and reposition to make it all work.

Jodi-

Ikea
Scherrs custom cabinets
Haas
Shenandoah
Aritokraft/Kemper
Mid-continent
Kraft Maid/Kitchen Craft
Diamond/Thomasville/ Schrock
Wellborn
Merrilat
Decora
Centra
Medallion/Schuler
Omega Dynasty
Showplace/Fieldstone/Starmark
Candlelight
Brookhaven/Cabico/Wellborn/Lifetime/Canyon Creek
Embssy
DuraSupreme
Shiloh
Bertch
Kahles
Crystal
Mouser
DutchMade
Signature/Omega Custom
Plain & Fancy/Quakermade
Crystal
Rutt/Woodmode
Crown Point

Here is a link that might be useful: great thread on cabinet pricing

kitchen

Ikea
Scherrs custom cabinets
Haas

Shenandoah
Aritokraft/Kemper
Kraft Maid/ Kitchen Craft
Diamond/Thomasville/ Schrock
Wellborn
Merrilat
Mid-continent
Medallion/ Schuler
Omega Dynasty
Showplace/ Fieldstone/ Starmark
Candlelight 

Brookhaven/Cabico/Wellborn/Lifetime/Canyon Creek
Embssy
DuraSupreme
Shiloh
Bertch
Kahles
Crystal
Decora
DutchMade
Signature/Omega Custom
Plain & Fancy/Quakermade
Crystal
Candlelight
Rutt/Woodmode
Moser
Crown Point

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.