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RE: Good countertop choices w. natural cherry (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: enduring on 11.18.2011 at 08:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Cherry with a honey stain and coffee glaze, just to tone it a bit. Soapstone that I put in with the help of my DH, though I did all the cutting and finishing. He did the heavy lifting and helped with the measurements and occasional problem solving.
Photobucket

NOTES:

Cabinet finish
clipped on: 10.22.2014 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2014 at 02:05 pm

RE: All cherry or white uppers/cherry below? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jessicaml on 06.29.2011 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

My first instinct was white or light backsplash and white counter, to tie in the uppers so they're not randomly floating, something like this:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

But I also really like this pic posted earlier by boxerpups (again with the white backsplash/wall tying in the white uppers):
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

NOTES:

Lower pic
clipped on: 10.22.2014 at 01:31 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2014 at 01:31 pm

RE: Help with trim colors (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jackson2348 on 03.05.2014 at 11:36 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Thank you all for the encouragement! My builder, who is fairly design savvy, is not sold, and DH is zero help.

Mtnrd, the window transoms are about 3-4" shorter (height) than the door transoms. Maybe it shows up better in this view:

 photo image-24.jpg

We installed them at the same level, and will have a wider trim piece between. It may not even be noticeable when it's all trimmed and painted, but it's screaming at me now. I just don't want it to scream any louder.

Tibbrix, I LOVE white dove. Unfortunately, it goes too gray for my warm palette. I'm using Schumachers Hothouse Flowers for the DR drapes and a couple of pillows in the LR, and I'm pulling all my colors from that.

 photo image-25.jpg

I'm using Simply white on the trim, and Elephant Tusk on the walls. Debating going with another color on the island, but if we do the black fox windows and doors, we'll likely keep it white. Elephant Tusk:

 photo image-26.jpg

NOTES:

Schumachers hothouse flowers and elephant tusk paint
clipped on: 10.19.2014 at 01:23 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2014 at 01:24 pm

Painting LR is done!

posted by: Tibbrix on 10.13.2014 at 01:45 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Last spring I sought opinions on repainting my LR from BM White Sand to a dark chocolate brown. Choc. Brown way too dark. I ended up painting the room BM Lenox Tan, and it is beyond gorgeous. The color changes by the minute, as the light changes, and every single rendition of this color is absolutely beautiful. This is a winter living room, and the color is cozy and warm, and the pine floor and ceiling are beautiful with it.

I did get my choc. brown fix by repainting the half bath that is in the winter living room in BM Whitall Brown (a beautiful brown, btw).

Here are pics. I have to do one at a time, so bear with me. And I love the Lenox Tan so much, I can handle boos.

This post was edited by Tibbrix on Mon, Oct 13, 14 at 16:36

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.19.2014 at 01:10 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2014 at 01:10 pm

RE: Please Review my House Plans :) (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: macv on 11.03.2009 at 03:28 pm in Building a Home Forum

If you made the front porch deeper and turned the rafters, the house might look like this.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

NOTES:

An attractive wing
clipped on: 10.14.2014 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2014 at 08:47 pm

RE: Help us choose -- Lacanche (Sully) or Wolf Rangetop/Double Ov (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: momto4kids on 03.13.2009 at 07:51 pm in Appliances Forum

***Sorry, sorry, clinresga!!***

Oh geez...clinresga...I didn't even know you said anything about the FT! That wasn't a snark aimed at you!! So sorry! No, I've read a lot of comments by chefs who say it's nonsense to have a French top in a residential kitchen.

We're a family of six, plus we entertain a lot. I use my FT to hold a lot of pots. It's a very efficient tool if you can get the hang of it. It's a long lead time to get it heated up, but from there I can juggle a wide variety of heat needs all at the same time. I find it easier to scoot-n-slide pans around than constantly bend over and look at a flame.

I don't always have the burner up on high. Usually I'll have a sauce along with whatever I'm doing and I'll want to hold it on the outer edge. I use it just like any other burner, but I can cram more pots on if I need to.

I like to have a lot of variety of side dishes, so the FT comes in handy. I run out of burners. When we have a bunch of kids over all weekend long, it gets quite a work out. Since I tend to operate more like a short-order kitchen, I find the FT to be a good place to have pots "hang out" while I'm focusing on other pots/pans that need direct attention. The FT, being large and flat, can hold more pots/pans in a smaller place. I use it far more than my open 18K burner! Plus, I can put big odd-sized pots on it with even heating. I have a number of oval pots.

I probably turn it on a good 20-30 minutes before I need it. I like to know it's ready when I am. I can't say it throws off a lot of heat. I'm sure it does, but my kitchen is large and open...so the heat doesn't seem overwhelming. Summer. Winter. It doesn't matter.

It took a little while to get used to it and build it into my cooking routine. Now I wouldn't be without it. I used to say if I only had 6 burners, I'd eliminate it. But not now. I'd definitely get one again. 4 burners and the FT. I probably wouldn't do 2 burners and the FT, but definitely 4.

NOTES:

French top use
clipped on: 10.10.2014 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 10.10.2014 at 08:14 am

Do You Have A Cooktop Hood Similar To This One? pic.

posted by: trudymom on 04.02.2008 at 11:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Do you have a cooktop hood similar to this one? Is it stucco? Does it crack? I'd love to see your pictures. Suggestions?

Also, I've asked this before, but if you have any idea of the stain on the perimeter cabinets, please let me know. Thank you!

NOTES:

I stained pine perimeter
clipped on: 10.08.2014 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 10.08.2014 at 09:46 am

RE: Speed Oven: Tell me Why you LOVE it... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mojavean on 04.19.2012 at 04:48 pm in Appliances Forum

I have a litte Miele,
It lives inside the wall,
and over on my counter
there's no microwaves at all!

No toaster ovens perch there
no boxy boxes sit
upon my pristine counters
'cause the Miele does that $#!7!

It quickly broils the broilers
Convects the breads and cakes
microwaves the popcorn
and the casseroles it makes!

But there's one thing I should warn you of:
while it's great for beans and ham
don't ditch your standard oven
cause it won't do pizza worth a damn.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.06.2014 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2014 at 01:51 pm

RE: anyone using oiled wood floors (not polyurethane)? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: illinigirl on 08.11.2014 at 10:44 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hi Dlm2000,
The first two coats were Bona Mega. Those were matte (which is Bona's satin sheen). I think because those coats were matte (satin) that the final coat of Naturale probably had a teeny bit more sheen than if all the coats had been done in Naturale. For me that was fine because I did not really want 'zero' sheen. just low sheen. And it still is very very low sheen. Nothing like a typical satin product, but still a hint. A glow like you mention.

So if you realllly want as close to zero sheen as possible you will want to make sure that all the coats are done in Naturale. But there will need to be something different on top of any stain you do, because Naturale can't go directly on top of the stain. Mega can be the sealer and the finish. Naturale can't be the sealer. Hope that makes sense. So if you are staining the coats are like this:

stain
sealer (Bona has some sealer products, or Mega can be the sealer)
top coat(s) (Naturale, Extra Matte, etc)

I also considered the Bona HD Extra Matte, which has a little more sheen than the Naturale but less than Bona Matte I liked it but my husband wanted the Naturale. No regrets on that. It really does help hide any scratches that happen.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.04.2014 at 07:02 am    last updated on: 10.04.2014 at 07:02 am

RE: Where is your playroom? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: nini804 on 04.19.2012 at 09:14 am in Building a Home Forum

Our children are 9 and 12. In our previous home, which we lived in since before they were born until 2 years ago, we did an addition/reno in which we opened up our kitchen, breakfast, family room AND built a sunken playroom in the space that used to be the back deck. It was the absolute perfect setup for toddlers and preschoolers. I could see them easily from the kitchen...but their "stuff" never felt like it was taking over because of the step down and the large built-in piece that served as fabulous storage on the playroom side, and formed a 1/2 wall of sorts on the den side. Perfection!

However, sadly, children age. :) That house, with all the BRs up and the playroom down, was not as good for elementary and up aged children. They always wanted to sleep in the downstairs playroom for sleepovers...which was basically right there in earshot of the family room where dh and I might like to have a glass of wine and watch a movie. Plus, we really wanted a master down. So in the new house, we put the master down, and 3 beds plus the large playroom up. It is so much better for older kids this way!

NOTES:

Master down, kids and playroom up
clipped on: 10.02.2014 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 10.02.2014 at 07:53 am

RE: floor plan - thoughts appreciated (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 09.30.2014 at 09:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

Trash pullouts are usually 18" wide and hold 2 bins - one for recyclables and one for trash. There are 24" recycle centers that have 3 bins, but I'm not sure how useful they really are - especially if you have "mixed" recycling (everything is mixed together).

As to having 2 - in your layout, you really only need one - to the right of the prep sink. In this location, it's accessible from the Prep Zone (island), Cooking Zone, and Cleanup Zone.

Just an FYI, the most important place for a trash pullout is in the Prep Zone and near the Cooking Zone - those are the zones that produce the most trash & recyclables and for extended periods of time.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 10:05 pm

RE: Do YOU Think This House is Ugly? Shocked at responses (Follow-Up #77)

posted by: mydreamhome on 06.07.2009 at 11:35 pm in Building a Home Forum

Aggie,

I too like this house. The garage facade is what does it for me more than anything else on the exterior. The stone, the metal roof, the window on the front, the dormers up above, etc. From the midwest idea house link you posted, it looks like that style of garage may just be what does it for you too. My husband and I are getting ready to build Abberley Lane from Southern Living (it was a 2002 Idea House & we were able to tour it)and we had alot of discussions about making the driveway a courtyard style and having the garage entry on the house side of the plan vs. the far side (this would give the master bath more privacy on the side of the house, too). In the end, we chose to leave the garage entry on the far side of the house. This came after looking at multiple houses with the courtyard set up. They all had a couple things in common: Positive- beautiful look, easy entry into the garage, seemed to encourage guests to use the front door vs. entering from the garage. Negative- awkward backing out of the garage, awkward looking "turn around" area right in front of the house for backing out of garage, severely limits parking outside garage (imagine the kids riding their scooters and bikes in the courtyard when you have guests over--the cars could easily become targets).

Based on our findings, we decided that we would keep the side entry. With our garage extending past the main house, we will get the same look. Then we're putting in a circle drive in front with plenty of "bike riding" space in the front. The one side of the circle drive will branch off and allow side entry into the garage. We're building a barn (for my husband's hobbies) about 40-50 feet from the garage and the space in between will be paved as well for more "bike riding" space for the kids.

You could easily do the same and just flip the garage around--don't know what that side of the house looks like from the exterior, but it may just give the side of the house some pizazz as well as allowing the front entry of the house to have all the attention vs. competing for attention with the garage.

Like you, we have lots of property (46 acres) so definitely spread out and take advantage of all the space.
My husband is always talking about having miniature cows in the pasture to make the property appear bigger. You can use the same thinking on the house--but you don't want the house to look small and overwhelmed by the property either.

Good luck to you!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 02:38 pm

1.5 Story Homes - Do you have one? Do you like it?

posted by: Autumn.4 on 08.24.2012 at 08:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hello all. We closed on our land this week (2 wooded acres, backs up to state land so no neighbors to the back - 335ish ft wide and 250ish ft deep) and did some measuring of the clearing, trying to picture where to put the house - garage, etc. From the very beginning we really only considered one floor living - neither of us have grown up or lived in 2 story homes.

In the interest of trying to preserve as many trees as possible (will need to clear some to the front due to setbacks) we just started looking at a couple 1.5 story homes to shrink the footprint. We'd have the master on the mainfloor and the kids rooms and a bathroom up. They are old enough I'd not worry about them being up there without us. I am intrigued at the thought but not certain since it's unchartered territory.

So I guess my questions are - 1st off - do you have to have a 2 story foyer and cathedral great room if you have a 1.5 story home? We have a cathedral ceiling now and for the new build I was leaning heavily toward 9 ft. ceilings throughout with a 10 ft. tray in the great room and mbr. I feel like we waste a lot of heat with the cathedral. I prefer more cozy spaces to open and loud.

Anyone have main floor master and kids up? Is it working out for you? We were drawn toward split bedroom ranch due to work schedules and keeping the house quiet on the kids side but I am missing having some of the views taken up by the bedrooms. I thought maybe a 1.5 story might be the answer but I'm feeling uneasy since I have no experience with 2 story homes at all.

Pros and Cons that I can see:
Pros
Kids upstairs with bonus area for all of their stuff - uncluttered main floor
Noise reduction for sleeping
Mainfloor rooms - kitchen, dr, great room, master would be at the back for better views
More flexibility with our changing needs as kids grow?

Cons
Stairs
Laundry - guess we'd need a chute for sure!
Fire - worries about kiddos up there and us down

Thoughts? Anything I'm missing?

This is the floor plan that I thought had a nice flow (would change a couple things but overall it seems good):

Don Gardner "The Fernwood"

Here is a link that might be useful: Don Gardner - The Fernwood

NOTES:

Whole thread
clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 09:31 pm

RE: Seen your kitchen...what's the rest of the house look like? (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: pirula on 03.10.2011 at 05:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow. Such absolutely exquisite homes! This is wonderful

I'll play! Although I warn you, it's nothing to the above. Incredible!

Foyer:
Photobucket

Dining room:
Photobucket

Living room (awful pictures)
Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 09:04 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 09:04 pm

RE: Anyone have/heard of Windsor Windows (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mightyanvil on 04.26.2009 at 11:13 am in Building a Home Forum

Windsor make many different kinds of windows, primed wood, aluminum clad wood, cellular PVC, and hybrids of those types.

The Legend is unique in the window business because it is the first window to have a wood frame with sash and trim made of cellular (solid) PVC (similar to Azek trim boards). It is possible to get an aluminum clad sash installed in this window frame as well. The frames appear to have no nailing fins (hooray and good riddance) and to rely on the casing trim for installation like the old fashioned windows before the marketing and packaging departments started to drive the designs.

The details of the double-hung casing trim and sill nosing are very impressive and suggest the window would be a good candidate for historic restorations and other traditional designs. Of course, any design that emulates the old way of installing a window is inherently more waterproof IMHO. Current nail-fin designs are simply ridiculous.

Unfortunately, I have never seen this window and have never dealt with any of the suppliers in my area who sell it. If the 5/8" putty glazed muntin bar and the sash glazing stops are well designed this could be a winner if the cost is competitive.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 11:04 am

RE: Marvin ultimate vs Kolbe & Kolbe vs Peachtree (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: windowsonwashington on 09.16.2011 at 09:19 am in Windows Forum

That is a heck of a window schedule.

Keep us posted and we would like to see some pictures.

3 words when it comes to installation....flashing, flashing, flashing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaKXqFtHAss

Here is a link that might be useful: Flashing How to

NOTES:

Flashing link
clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 03:02 pm

RE: New Windows for our Colonial (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: anymac on 04.04.2013 at 09:53 pm in Windows Forum

Here is a more up close picture. Note how nice the thick wood divided light windows look for the entry. We want mirror this for the rest of the front.

NOTES:

Sdl, world of difference
clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 02:54 pm

RE: DIY Central Vac? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: david_cary on 09.20.2014 at 06:59 pm in Building a Home Forum

Simple, simple, simple. Did a 4000 sqft house with hide a hose which is much harder and my conclusion at the end was what a ripoff these things are to install.

The skill level is way below electrical, plumbing etc. It is similar to low voltage wiring as far as skill level - ie something a handy person can pick up very quickly.

You might spend $200 in supplies for an average new house - 3000 sqft

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 07:53 am

RE: Andersen windows... Worthwhile deal? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Renovator8 on 03.13.2014 at 07:18 am in Building a Home Forum

Image and video hosting by TinyPic
Unless Andersen has redesigned the 200 series sill and not updated their website, the top of the 200 series sill is essentially flat the the bottom of it is perfectly flat thereby fully exposing the top of the siding to the weather.

The sloped sill of the 400 series (see detail below) and the drip groove of the overhanging nosing creates a slot under the sill for exterior siding to fit into. So, when water runs over the sill it cannot not travel back to the top edge of the siding and enter behind it.

The Andersen detail for the 200 series shows some kind of thick siding and a bead of sealant over a tiny little compressible backer-rod (a construction fantasy) that even if carefully installed would be ineffective as a water stop. It is a partial solution that will eventually fail. No one should need to check the sealant joints under their window sills every year.

This isn't a theory; I have seen many Andersen windows leak under the sill soon after installation. Such leaks led to the redesign of the 400 series frame years ago but for some reason Andersen retained the failed design for the 200 series and continues to offer it at steep discounts to builders. This is not a window a homeowner should buy for their own house.

So if you use the 200's it will be cheaper to install the sub-sill now instead of later. I put a sub-sill under Clad Marvin Ultimate double-hung windows too. One of the few windows that doesn't need a sub-sill is the Andersen 400 so when comparing costs that should be taken into account.

Notice in the 200 Series detail that the sash doesn't have any cladding. Why would a window with a clad frame have a painted sash? And the jamb system was retired by other manufacturers decades ago.

People often speak of the Andersen 400 series as if it was one window model. The 400 Tilt-Wash and the 400 Woodwright may have the same frame but the sash construction and jamb system are entirely different. Since they are both tilt-wash windows it is a mystery why Andersen did not use a different model number for the Woodwright since it is a far superior window.

The 400 Tilt-Wash has a painted all wood sash and a PVC compression jamb from the 70's.

The 400 Woodwright has a plastic & wood Fibrex composite sash with wood attached to the inside face and a weather-stripped "hidden" jamb system like most modern windows.

I would rate these three windows as excellent, mediocre, and unacceptable.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

This post was edited by Renovator8 on Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 8:31

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2014 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2014 at 09:47 pm

The conceptual stuff

posted by: inkognito on 03.30.2009 at 02:45 pm in Landscape Design Forum

I have often heard people say "I can't draw, I couldn't draw a straight line to save my life," which is a weird thing to say since all you need is a piece of paper, a ruler and a pencil and if you are really dense some instruction! What the straight line represents or means is a different kettle of fish however and the concept the line expresses needs some study and contemplation. Before I get lost in this analogy let me state the obvious: making a garden is just like that.

A garden is a place and conceptualizing the design of that place needs some understanding of the sense of it and where you fit in and what you want to do there. The drawing of the line then becomes straightforward.

A number of books have been written to explain this so I won't write another one here, if anyone is interested in following up this notion read "A Pattern Language" by Chris Alexander, "The Poetics of Space" Gaston Abelard and "The Poetics of Gardens" by Moore, Mitchell and Turnbull. There are others but that should be enough to get going.

What this means in simple terms is that although 'a pergola' may be the answer you first need to ask the right question. It is the opposite of buying a pergola and then trying to figure out where to put it.

NOTES:

Do the opposite of buying a pergola and figuring out where to put it
clipped on: 09.19.2014 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 09.19.2014 at 11:31 am

RE: HELP!! I can't make paint color decision! (Follow-Up #108)

posted by: amberley on 02.28.2010 at 09:22 am in Kitchens Forum

So here are the pics. This was late afternoon light.

Clunch on Left, Off-White on Right. Pic right next to french door.
left clunch rt off white

Left long strip: White Tie, then top to btm: Off White, Clunch, Mouse's Back (I think), then strip of White Tie, Old White, Fawn. notice how Old White is almost the same color as the drywall? This is on the left side of the utility closet which doesn't get direct light.
Farrow And Ball test

This is on the main cabinet wall. Mouse's Back, Old White, Light Gray, French Gray. Underneath is Fawn, and above is White Tie.
Farrow and Ball Test 2

This is on the wall that straddles the kit and DR. It probably has the best color representation of real life- especially Clunch. L to R: Small strip of Matchstick, top: White Tie, middle: Old White, btm: Fawn. Then top Matchstick, then Off White, then another strip of White Tie.

Gotta run!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.16.2014 at 02:40 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2014 at 02:41 pm

RE: Kitchen Finished Now Backsplash HELP. PiCS (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: oldbat2be on 09.08.2014 at 09:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Darker perimeter here, but lovely:

Google your countertop + dark cabinets. Look for combinations which you love. Good luck!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.10.2014 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2014 at 09:19 pm

RE: Home Siting Issues: Deciding where on a lot to put a house (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: MushCreek on 09.09.2014 at 06:55 am in Building a Home Forum

This is an important issue to me as well. Many lots simply don't offer much of a choice because of their size and location, but on acreage, it becomes paramount. If I were building on a typical suburban lot, I would pick a lot that allowed for the orientation I wanted.

We had the luxury of studying our land for a good while before siting the house. I lived on our property for a year while I built the barn, so I got to see the changes throughout the seasons. We had several factors affecting the location and orientation. Our land is sloping, we have a mountain view to the north, and we wanted to be as energy efficient as possible/practical.

Luckily, the siting became pretty obvious. I don't like any side of a house facing dead north, as it is cold and uninviting, and prone to growing mold and algae. I rotated the house about 30 degrees to the east, maintaining the mountain view, but allowing some sunlight to hit the back of the house. The street is on one side of a ridge, so we put the house down the back side of the ridge, giving us total privacy from the street. From our front porch, all you can see are the power lines. Our land is heavily wooded, so the house is shielded from east and west sunlight, and the garage is on the west side, further shielding the sun.

The design of the house should fit the site, especially for a unique property. Our sloping land made a walk-out basement the most practical configuration. All of the 'public' rooms (LR, DR, kitchen) are across the back to take advantage of the view. I turned to waterfront plans to get ideas, as they generally have the view in the back. Our hot SC climate means strong solar gains, something to be avoided in the summer A/C season. The house has big overhangs on the roof, and between that and the trees, solar gain is minimized. In the winter, the leaves are off the trees, and the angle of the sun is lower, allowing for more direct sunlight when you need it most.

We went with a very energy efficient design and construction, as we will be retired soon, and wanted to minimize our energy bills. Our power bill for an all-electric home was $66 in July, our hottest month. Our front roof has a decent orientation for solar power, either photovoltaic or hot water. In a number of states, PV has already dropped to parity with grid power, and projections are for PV to drop dramatically over the next 10 years, while utility bills continue to climb.

It's interesting that none of these concepts were on my radar when we first started planning, but in all my internet research, I really got on board with proper siting for both aesthetics and energy efficiency. Six years of planning and research are finally paying off!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.09.2014 at 09:18 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2014 at 09:18 pm

Side Entry Garages

posted by: laag on 03.09.2009 at 09:52 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Another thread got me thinking about the things that amatuer developers (or homeowners siting their own homes) stick us with fixing.

The side entry garage is now a "must have". It makes your home look like it is all living space and gets those pesky cars from out in front.

The tendency is to keep the driveway off to the side. This is the shortest distance to pave and keeps the pavement out from the front of the house and allows for a full greenspace of lawn and/or garden as the foreground to the house. The big reason is often to get rid of the "welcome to my garage" look.

There are a few problems that can arise if these are not well thought out, however. First, adequate room to back out and turnaround the car is often short changed by a lot line that is too close. More importantly it causes a problem with arrival of guests (invited or otherwise). If not well planned, it actually builds up the "welcome to my garage" experience to arriving guests.

People driving by don't see the garage, but if you have a driveway off to the garage side of the property that leads, well, to the garage, your guests are going to ultimately be welcomed by that garage.

Worsening the "welcome to my garage" problem is that the garage is the service and family entrance to the home and is typically attached to parts of the house that serve the same. Now that garage has pushed your guests 24' farther away from the front door than if the garage faced the street. Because the garage is not always the place that friends and family arrive, there is typically a second informal entry between the side facing garage and the front door which goes into a part of the house that will have the kitchen, mud room, laundry room (sevice and family area). All of that pushes the formal front door even farther from where your guests leave the car.

You also have to consider the experience those arriving guests will have. They drive past the beautiful home and landscape on the street and pull into a driveway which leads them to the end of the house and looking at the garage doors. They get out and walk toward the garage seeing little more than those garage doors and begin to follow a walk that does not lead them into your home and landscape, but across the face of it. They are too close to enjoy the look of the home. After passing the garage windows for 24' there is an entrance, but the walk continues. They have to figure out if they go to this door or the next one.

If they go to the first door, you'll be bringing them through the mud room and/or kitchen. If they go to the second door it is an even longer walk across the face of your house.

Does that sound like the best way to present your home and landscape?

My feeling is that if you are trying to have an inviting home the layout and landscape should be designed to enhance that rather than to fight it. Guests should be drawn to the heart of the house both visually and physically (formally, informally, directly, or indirectly ... whatever your style is).

Driveways were around long before the automobile and can enhance a landscape and certainly can direct and control the experience one has in arriving somewhere.

Should it not be that the family and service area be the secondary point of arrival rather than the first? Why not bring the primary driveway to the front door and have a secondary drive leaving from the primary to access the garage? It visually brings the attention to the heart of the house and makes the service area less significant.

There is more pavement and expense, but if having that side entry garage is important, one would think that the aesthetic is what is valued. If the result is an aesthetic loss because you don't value the follow through, it seems rather pointless. It would make more sense to can the idea of the side entrance and compromise with a front entrance garage that serves both as service and formal arrival without completely destroying one or the other in the process.

Just something to think about before you get stuck mitigating a bad situation that is supposed to be wonderful.

Side entry (multi-million dollar house). Front of the house is facing the top of the page. All the way in you see little more than the garage.
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Front facing garage. Very compact and the front door is the heart of the house.
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RE: Floor Plan Judgement Wanted...Looking at you Renovator8 (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: rosie on 05.15.2013 at 02:57 pm in Building a Home Forum

House faces south. Presumably the front of the house? Are you sure that's what you want, even in a hot climate? People are drawn to sunshine. You might end up using your sunny dining room more than the breakfast area (hardly a tragedy!), but since tradition designates the DRM to be the dust gatherer, hopefully breaking out of that sad box is exactly what you have in mind. Your MIL's room will also be delightfully sunny most of the day. The child's room and whatever's in the northwest corner (if windowed) will get the only afternoon sun--nice in the chilly months, and trees across that end can take care of the rest. A north porch will benefit in the summer but be cold and unappealing much of the year when a south-facing one could be very inviting and comfortable.

Agree with the advantages of moving the master bedroom to the corner--the views, light, cross breezes (!), additional privacy and making your house feel and live larger. Fortunately, that nice hall lends itself nicely to this. Although, a lot of people do spend very little time in their bedrooms, and that is a prize corner for daytime living...

In any case, regarding your mother-in-law's space, how about asking her if she'd like to have a door leading out to a little private patio in the angle formed by the room and the garage? An area defined and decorated by a handsome shade tree, her favorite shrubs (if she has any, of course) and a little picket fence could be very pretty and is a time-honored treatment for a sheltered corner like this. And the southeast exposure is ideal for greeting the morning all year round.

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RE: basement options? walk out, look out? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: milz50 on 03.08.2012 at 01:16 pm in Building a Home Forum

We also have a walkout that is only accessible to the outside on one side of the basement. It is a good compromise because it allows us to retain an outside living area on the first floor without having to use a deck. It may or may not be possible depending on your site.

This model gives a good perspective:

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RE: Contest - Help me find the perfect 4 bedroom plan (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: virgilcarter on 11.26.2012 at 07:33 pm in Building a Home Forum

P, for many architects light may be the most important ingredient in designing any and every structure, residential or not. Light is emotional, aesthetic, warming and comforting. It's dynamic and constantly changing throughout the day, bringing an infinite variety to one's house and liveing. It's something that non-design professionals may not recognize or appreciate, but you certainly will once you have experienced it first-hand.

Your site's north light orientation will be very cool and unchanging through the day. This is why artists traditionally prefer studios with north light--it stays relatively constant throughout the day.

The good news is that if you have any sort of pleasant view to the north that is enjoyable and pleasurable, you will be able to watch the sun illuminate it from the east in early morning to the west in late afternoon. It's just that your house and yard will always be dark. Large, light-gathering windows on your north elevation may be a good idea, unless you live in a cold, northern environment where storms and heat loss will negate the advantage of lots of glazing.

If it were me, I'd look for property that entered from the north and faced the south, so that my house and property would be warm and inviting, indoors and out, throughout the day. But if you can't, you can't!

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RE: Paint Color for East-Facing Room (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: funcolors on 07.18.2012 at 12:11 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

It doesn't have anything to do with temperature -- unless color temperature is significantly meaningful to your personal color tolerance. i.e. a preponderance for warm colors and you choose to meet that tolerance.

It's about nuance. Partner the perfect pitch of nuance with inherent light source. In a nutshell, that's what color consultants do. 99.9% of them don't know that's what they're doing, but it is. They think they're matching color, pulling color, aligning undertones, aligning color temperature, aligning tone, yadda, yadda, yadda.

Deconstructed the essence of every color quest is about how to get color right to work with natural and/or artificial inherent light.

You can choose any hue, either color temperature and any lightness value for any exposure of intermediate / cardinal direction. As long as the pitch of nuance is right. Nuance is a focus and consideration of two dimensions of color at the same time. Saturation + Lightness Value (LRV) = Nuance.

How you determine what hue, color temperature and lightness value is to identify the kind of atmosphere (or mood) you want to create. Because Hue + Color Temperature + Lightness Value (LRV) + Nuance = Atmosphere.

Easy peasy, right? ;)

Light quality influences and defines in situ color but in situ color does not influence quality of light. Because the light is boss. Always.

Been online in #SoMe for many years, I read a lot of blogs, FB pages, sites, etc. and I've never once seen anyone speak to this aspect of color correctly. Most of it's the same stupid bullsh1t repeated over and over. Stuff like north light is blue so it will turn yellow paint color green. Ridiculous. It's like that old game Telephone - a game of Telephone gone horribly, horribly wrong. Unfortunately, urban legends, myths and totally bogus color tips and tricks are all a big part of what makes blogosphere go 'round.

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RE: Deep porches and dark interior concerns (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mydreamhome on 01.30.2012 at 09:41 am in Building a Home Forum

We also have porches on our house on both the north & south sides. The front porch faces south and is 8' deep, the back porch faces due north and is 10' deep along the kitchen wall and 16' deep along the family room wall. I was also worried about the natural light issue especially in the family room with such a deep porch and the north direction. When I solicited feedback from GW, most posters said the rooms would be gloomy. In the end, though, my worries (and the gloomy predictions) were unfounded. While I do not have direct sunlight streaming in, I have plenty of natural light that I can work and read by without help of ambient/overhead lighting even in winter. Really the only time we turn on the lights in there is at night. The room feels open & airy--keeping the wall & floor color on the light side & having lots of windows also helps. Our furniture is dark, but the floor is natural stained oak and the walls are a medium beige color (SW Simply Beige).

DS1's bedroom is on the front of the house on the south side with his bedroom window under the porch. During the winter, he complains of the sun waking him up too early as the sun is still low enough in the southern sky to shine in under the porch right through his window. Another 2' in porch depth might have helped that.

Since you say your family room is also on the south side think about what happens when sun shines directly into a room--there typically is a glare on the TV or it shines directly in someone's eyes and you have to pull the curtains or close the blinds. With the porch in place you won't have to worry about any of that. You should get plenty of natural light without the glare.

Your DH is right in thinking that an extra 2' would help with usability of the porch. My parents' front porch is 10' deep and they are easily able to use it for parties and such. With my 8' deep porch on the front of the house it would be more difficult as it's just not deep enough to accomodate a table, chairs, etc. (Well I guess it could accomodate them, but it would be very tough to get around the table to get to all the chairs to have a seat-LOL!)

The question then is: which is more important to you--streaming sunlight in a room vs. a roomier & more versatile porch for relaxing/entertaining? At our house the answer was the porch, hands down.

Hope this helps!

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RE: Floor Plan Comments - Natural Light (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: lyfia on 10.22.2013 at 10:29 pm in Building a Home Forum

I'm in central Texas too and my great room faces northeast, but the east part is blocked off by the breakfast room so no light from there. We have a 10 ft deep porch. We have the foyer and dining room all open on the other side. We have plenty of natural light IMO as a lot comes from the foyer and dining side which on my house have a 10 ft deep front porch in front of them too. I don't feel like I lack light in the house at all and it is nice to never have a glare on the TV or sun in our eyes while in the great room.The outside wall of the great room has frenchdoors on each side of a fireplace so also not a wall of windows. Interior my ceilings are at 9th and exterior looks similar height, but are a bit taller.

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RE: Clearance for a side-entry garage? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 06.22.2011 at 11:50 am in Building a Home Forum

30 feet from the garage edge to the property setback line. If your property setback is 5', then 35' from garage edge to property line. And do make your garage deeper and wider than you think you'll need. Most standard garages aren't nearly big enough to store automobiles and household junk as well. 30" deep minimum and 30'-35' wide depending on how much storage you want to have.

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RE: Southern yellow pine floors- thoughts? finishes? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sandy808 on 01.14.2014 at 11:51 pm in Building a Home Forum

We have heart pine floors throughout our home that were milled locally, kiln dried, and acclimated for about a month before installation in our log style style home. We chose to use pure tung oil on them since I did not want any toxic substances used in our house, and I did not want the headaches involved with refinishing in the future.

We've been in our house almost two years and the oil finish has held up just fine. At some point I will re-oil sections of the floor at a time, but despite hard use and several cats throwing up hairballs, our floor is still water resistant and looks beautiful. I do need to apply more tung oil in my immediate kitchen area at some point in the near future. Not because my floor is deteriorating, but I do a lot of cooking, canning, freezing, etc. and haven't always kept a throw rug down. The oil needs to be replenished because of all the wet activity. Someday I will get around to it.

It is developing a "patina" from living a life here. There are some gouges or scrapes in the wood, but they are not noticeable unless looked for. We have very little movement at all in the floor. In other words, we don't have gaps opening up, but we also had an excellent installation job done. All in all, it is a rich and very beautiful floor. NO regrets. It's awesome looking. I would have hated scratches in a polyurethane finish, and I feel because the floor is just natural wood with a natural oil finish, that it simply does not scratch easily.

It was not easy finding someone who had experience installing a "real" wood floor. I can't tell you how many "installers" we talked to who wanted to glue the floor down, polyurethane it only, and those that wanted the work but obviously knew nothing about this type of floor.

Someone who only installs laminate will not understand how to properly install a true wood floor. We did eventually find a young man who's specialty was installing reclaimed wood floors, so he understood natural wood, and he did an excellent job. I had to wait three months to get him...that's how much he's in demand. I talked him into applying the tung oil for me and we paid him well to do it. I was happy about that since at the time I was tung oiling all of our trim, baseboards, and doors.

I did considerable research before deciding to tung oil our floor. I used only the tung oil from the Real Milk Paint Company, and initially mixed it with citrus solvent to get it to soak into the wood really well. This company will answer any questions you have and their website has a great deal of information on how to finish wood floors with it.

Tung oil finish is NOT the same as pure tung oil.

The beauty of tung oil is that it is easily repaired and recoated. You can spot treat areas without having to do the whole floor. It is completely non toxic and does not outgas. The floor can be coated with an oil based urethane if so desired in the future, but I will never consider doing that. I love the tung oil.

I ran into lots of naysayers who tried to push me into the poly route, the Waterlox route, the Monocoate route. As I said earlier, I did a great deal of research (months worth) and went with the tung oil. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

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RE: Do you use your kitchen desk? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: kaismom on 04.04.2010 at 11:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a desk a few steps away from the main kitchen. I think when it is NOT in the middle of the kitchen, it is more functional. I think most people need a little break from the kitchen and desk.

I keep my computer, telephone, calendar, shelves with family junk, drawers with file, shredder, pencil sharpner, pens/pencils, envelopes etc there. It is a mini office. It is related to the kitchen but is not a part of it. When the kids play on the computer, I can see what they are doing but they are not in the way of my cooking. I would not like my kids to be on the computer in an office where the door can be closed or where I can't see them easily. I suppose I could make them bring out the laptop to the kitchen... even so, our "office" is really far from the kitchen area, and not a practical space for the family operation central. I think it is really important that someone on the desk does not get in the way of the worker in the kitchen. If I did not have kids, I probably would not need this desk area.

I or my kids can be at the computer for a long time. I do not find it comfortable to be at a counter height for a long time. So I have it at desk height.

I think you have to assess how you would use a particular area and build for that need. For example, we as a family do not watch any TV during the week. The only TV we watch is on weekends and we watch movies on our home theater set up. So for us, TV in the kitchen would be a useless idea. For many, this is a very important part of what makes their kitchen functional. I don't see anyone worry about TV in the kitchen making a difference in the resale. I don't think kitchen desk will make enough of a difference when it comes to resale.

However, by putting in the kitchen desk creates a bad layout for the kitchen, it will make a difference when it comes to resale.

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RE: Recessed Lights: Worth it? Alternatives? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: GauchoGordo1993 on 03.27.2014 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Are recessed lights the be all end all of lighting design? No. Does it make sense to include some recessed lights in your kitchen lighting plan? Almost certainly yes.

Conventional lighting design focuses on ambient, task, and accent lighting. Personally, I think it's more useful to think about specific use cases and "layers" of light. For example, what will you want illuminated in the following cases:
1) When you walk into the kitchen in the morning.
2) On a dark & stormy day, around noon.
3) When you're cooking on a dark evening by yourself or with guests.
4) After dinner, when you've retired to another room.
5) Overnight, with & without overnight guests.

For us, the answers are:
1) Recessed lights dimmed to ~25% + island pendant
2) Island pendant
3) Recessed lights + island pendant. Sometimes also undercab &/or exhaust hood lights. As a general rule, the more people in the house, the brighter we want the lights.
4) Undercab only or undercab + island pendant.
5) Undercab.

Refer to the link below for useful tips on recessed lighting selection and placement.

Here is a link that might be useful: davidtay's recessed light guidelines on lighting forum

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RE: It's August - How is your build going? Part 2 (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: jackson2348 on 08.17.2014 at 05:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

Wow! Everyone's making wonderful progress. We're taking a break from unpacking and decorating to enjoy a lazy Sunday afternoon in the new house!

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Fabrics
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RE: 3 Car Courtyard Garage? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 10.28.2013 at 09:39 am in Building a Home Forum

I think that a courtyard plan looks awkward on a small city lot where most of the front yard IS that courtyard. It looks appropriate to a more country setting where the house is well off of the street and the garage and courtyard are hidden by the landscape to be "discovered" as you come up the drive. Which defeats the major purpose of most urban "garage in the front yard" plans to keep the driveway to a minimum. In an urban setting, nothing beats a side load garage set back from the main home for minimizing it's appearance to the main house and keeping the drive as small as possible. It's usually only 15-20 foot longer to do a side load than a front load anyway, so it's not like you're talking a 100 foot difference in driveways here.

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RE: walk out basement VS non-walk out type (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sue36 on 08.31.2007 at 10:11 am in Building a Home Forum

I did not want a walk-out and we went through considerable effort to avoid one. The lot had to be relatively flat, for one, and flat lots are more expensive. I don't like elevated decks off the back of houses. I want to be able to step out and be close to ground level. I grew up in a house with an elevated deck and hated it.

With a walk-out basement you have more lumber and window costs, but less concrete cost. I'd say walk-out will be more expensive, primarily because of the windows. How much more will depend on the windows and doors you get. There may be extra excavation (plus fill or rock wall) cost with a walkout, but that depends on the lot.

Our basement is totally dry, no moisture issues. The house is large (3800 sf plus 1000 sf walk-up attic), so we don't need the basement square footage. Eventually there may be a small home gym and pool/bar room down there. There are four smallish windows.

I love that my first level is actually at ground level in the back. To each his own.

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RE: Brick Color (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: JDez on 08.08.2014 at 10:43 am in Building a Home Forum

Columbus Annandale Queen

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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RE: Choosing building site - Countryside or Allotment? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: vancleaveterry on 08.26.2008 at 09:26 pm in Building a Home Forum

Do everything you can to buy TWO of the country lots. Sell the TV, get a second job, whatever you have to do. You will never regret it.

175 feet isn't much frontage by country standards. But 350 feet or so, is enough room to frame a house for a beautiful, bucolic setting. It also gives you enough room for a sweeping driveway that leads to a side entrance garage, a big deal to me.

Choose a nice country house plan, maybe build a detached garage, maybe a small horse pasture, plant some white oaks,... and in ten years ... those neighbors stuck in the "up-scale" subdivision will be soooooo jealous.

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Remember
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RE: Last but toughest decision in new build (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: billygoatjoe on 07.02.2014 at 08:14 pm in Building a Home Forum

Good to ponder... Biggest regret of remote build is finish detail on one of the fireplaces (phoney stoney). Currently researching fix.

Note the wood moulding which wraps the stone ends in pics 17:03 and 17:08. The moulding hides the depth of the stone. Compare to the very thin side profile of 17:10. Also compare to the pics of 17:17, 17:19, 17:20. The side profiles in these last 3 pix APPEAR to be much more prominent. Could be real stone or an appropriately 'wrapped' corner. Hard to tell due to front on photo.

You'll also need to consider the layout of a stone fireplace and proximity to your beautiful windows.

Unfortunately, we ended up with the thin profile. A fully uninformed and deeply regretted decision on our part.
Good to take the time to get the look you desire.
~bgj

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Interesting
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RE: Cambria Torquay pics please! Considering canceling my Silesto (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 06.15.2012 at 08:32 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is FiveZ's kitchen:

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FiveZ's said it's Imperial Danby. Here is some more Imperial:

Imperial Danby

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RE: what to do with artichoke hearts (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angelaid on 06.16.2014 at 10:27 am in Cooking Forum

The Best Crab Dip Ever

The Best Crab Dip Ever!!!
by Random7777

1 can of artichoke hearts
1 can of crab meat
8 oz of cream cheese (soft works really well)
1 cup of Parmesan
1/2 cup of shredded cheddar cheese (optional)
1 finely chopped green onion (optional)

Drain artichoke hearts and smash them with a fork in the bottom of a microwavable/or oven bake casserole dish. Drain crab meat and mash in with artichoke hearts. Add softened cream cheese and cup of Parmesan cheese, and cheddar cheese. Add onion (optional). I love this dip because there are different ways you can serve it.
1. You can bake it for 45 minutes at 350. Intensifies flavors and so rich.
2. You can microwave it 2 minutes at a time until hot and then keep it warm by either re-nuking it from time to time or in a chaffing dish. Serve with crackers
3. You can also serve either one of these on thin, warm slices of baguette bread.

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RE: Green subway tile? Especially vintage looking? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: gbsim on 08.12.2011 at 02:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used the Walker Zanger Gramercy Park in Victorian Green in our kitchen refresh. It may be a little darker than you had in mind, but I think it gives a wonderful period feel. It is the exact shade I was searching for since I didn't want a pastel green.

If anyone is curious, I used Laticrete Mushroom for the grout and it is the perfect grout for this tile and this type of granite.

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Walker z Victorian green
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RE: HELP! My house smells stale! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: grainlady on 02.05.2006 at 09:11 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

Our mothers/grandmothers/great-grandmothers, etc. aired out their homes on a daily basis (weather permiting). Have you ever noticed windows in closets of older homes? Yep, they opened them up and aired out the closets.

They aired out the rugs, and shook out "scatter" rugs daily and if possible, laundered them weekly. They also ran a dust mop on hard-surfaced floors at least once a day and swept the kitchen floor after every meal. Curtains got laundered regularly (at least once a month). Every wall and ceiling was washed thoroughly at least twice a year (spring/fall). Bedding was aired, including the mattress. Even though we have many more conveniences in the way of labor-saving devices (vacuums and all the rest of the gadgets), we don't do even half the cleaning they did.

According to manufacturer directions, my wool area rugs are supposed to be taken out twice a year and placed in the sun.

I'd also suggest with our houses being so air-tight that you leave the furnace/air conditioner fan run constantly (it's also easier on the fan motor to leave it on constantly). And to change your furnace filter at least once a month.

Grainlady

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RE: Beekeeperswife--this is for you! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bookworm4321 on 02.11.2014 at 05:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

OH MY!!!

Can you imagine White Cloud and Ming Green with sea PearL?

Or those blue/white with BP?

Absolutely lovely.

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Brittany and cogs tile

Bee or bunny for girls bath

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RE: Anyone here NOT choosing Shaker cabinets? (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: southernmum on 01.06.2013 at 11:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

weird - the photo was in the preview, but didn't show up. let me try again:

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RE: Cherry cabinets and oak hardwood floor too busy? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: idrive65 on 01.23.2011 at 05:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have cherry cabinets with just a hint of stain, slightly darker than natural, with antique white oak floors. I think it looks great, but then I like wood grain. You want to ensure that the tones in your cabinets "go" with the tones in your floor. In my case the colors are fairly close, which some people don't like as much because all that monochromatic wood can give a log cabin feel. If that's a concern, keep them distinctly different shades or colors. My floors have a lot of character and grain, and my cabinets do not. Unfortunately the lighting in this pic isn't the best, too much glare. The island counter top is Uba Tuba.

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Cherry Pecan and Maple Harvest Bronze (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kompy on 07.16.2009 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

The bath is Medallion Providence Cherry w/ Pecan stain:

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The finish is not really as dark as showing in a couple of these photos ....I didn't use a flash on the last two.

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This one is Medallion Brookhill Maple with Harvest Bronze glaze. (Going with Maple would be less than cherry).

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Cherry pecan
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RE: medallion cherry pecan cabinets (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kalapointer on 02.05.2012 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have Medallion cherry with pecan stain in our master bath. I think the door style is Santiago. But maybe this picture will give you some idea of the color. The floor tile looks like slate and the counter is travertine.

Master Bath

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Medallion cherry w pecan stain
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RE: Pictures of Natural Cherry Cabinets with Wood Floors? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: nhbaskets on 03.04.2012 at 08:52 am in Kitchens Forum

We have natural cherry cabinets with unstained white oak floors. Our island is antiqued white. We rescued a 11 lb. chihuahua after finishing our remodel. He small, but very active. I think we only notice the scratches. Our cabs have darkened a bit more since these pictures were taken.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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Truly timeless
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RE: Roses: the bad, the good and your favorite colors & scents? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 06.14.2014 at 01:01 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Bouquet below is cut June 14, zone 5a: From upper L to R:

Pink Sonia Rykiel is the best scent among the bunch: raspberry rose, even the leaves smell good. Yellow is Golden Celebration, very hardy in zone 5a, smells like cupcakes.

White is Mary Magdalene, rain-tolerant, with cozy fantastic myrrh, purple Old port has a slight clove scent, orange Crown Princess Mag. has a fruity scent, salmon-pink is Evelyn (good scent, but can't match Sonia Rykiel). Two pure pink is Radio Times (sweet damask scent).

NOTES:

Pretty das
clipped on: 06.18.2014 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 06.18.2014 at 10:45 am

RE: Caesarstone Dreamy Marfil~ new and beautiful (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: Kitten1313 on 07.11.2013 at 09:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Late to this thread, but just had my first outing to choose countertops and was introduced to Dreamy Marfil. Once I saw it, nothing else seemed right.

It is soft and earthy, interesting without being busy. Our kitchen will have a rustic look - wood floors, wood beams, medium stained distressed cabinets, brick. With all that going on, most granites and quartzes were too busy.

The color of this is creamy, but not too yellow. It looked great with the earthy palette of our kitchen. Haven't decided on paint colors yet, though.

NOTES:

Cs dreamy marfil
clipped on: 06.17.2014 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 06.17.2014 at 09:00 am

RE: Shared (kids) bathroom layout help requested (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Anne2326 on 06.15.2014 at 12:04 pm in Bathrooms Forum

About to send the 2nd of two girls off to college who shared a bath. Can't imagine the fun you will have with 3 girls sharing a bath! When we built our house we designed the shared bath (which is next to the playroom) with the door opening into the main vanity area (2 sinks). Behind the vanity we put a separate room for the toilet and shower. The ability to shut the door while someone is showering or going to the bathroom was essential.

My girls are probably typical teenagers--meaning that they can spend hours staring in the mirror using flat irons, curling irons, make up, etc. Countertop real estate is a premium, but having separate sinks really did help. I don't know exactly what they do, but make up gets everywhere. Countertop, sink, floor (so I never let them put on make up in their rooms since we have almost white carpet up there (or we did at one point). Oh, and the hair they shed! Put a shower drain that takes that into consideration!!

While the layout of our bath worked fine, I wouldn't do small format tiles again. I was tired of decisions when I did their bath, and just used 4" square while tiles on the floor. I'd do anything to minimize grout lines if I were doing it again.

Also put a big honking shower fan to keep the steam down. And put it on a sensor that it goes on anytime someone is in the shower/toilet room. The cute wallpaper I chose when they were young was peeling off 5 years later because they seem to be incapable of remembering to turn the fan on.

We planned so that their vanity stacked over the downstairs laundry room, so we put a laundry shoot in the vanity. Best decision ever.

Oh, and make sure that whatever countertop you pick can handle a 400 degree flat iron that princess leaves on!

Good luck!

NOTES:

Girls shared bath tips
clipped on: 06.16.2014 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 06.16.2014 at 10:28 am

RE: Happy Accidents (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: cloud_swift on 06.03.2011 at 10:38 am in Kitchens Forum

We had been trying to figure out how to deal with the transition between our rangetop and the countertop. Our rangetop is a Bluestar on our island. The back of island trim for it has two screws that would be visible because they are above the countertop which we didn't much like.

Well, the installers messed up slightly on the rangetop cutout. It was done on site and our quartzite is very hard to cut so they got slightly out of square. Our fabricator suggested that they could make trim pieces from the quartzite to go around the range top to cover the mistake. It also covered the screws on the back.

The fabricator didn't have to pay for a new slab, we got to keep the slab we loved and the rangetop looks much nicer in it:
Photobucket

NOTES:

Bluestar rangetop in island, covering seams
clipped on: 06.09.2014 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2014 at 09:11 pm

RE: It's June 2014, how is your build? (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: jackson2348 on 06.05.2014 at 10:56 pm in Building a Home Forum

Thanks y'all! Floors are antique heart pine, with some combination of chestnut, Jacobean, and poly. Floor guys made a sample, and we kept adding and subtracting parts of different colors until we got the look I wanted.

Carsonheim, CONGRATS!!!!

NOTES:

Floor stain
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:25 pm

RE: Secret Garden Musk Climber in my Garden (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: williamcartwright on 03.25.2008 at 07:35 pm in Antique Roses Forum

That clove-like smell is intoxicating.

I still remember the first time I encountered this rose at Descanso Gardens...and spending the better part of the next hour imploring every passer-by to stop and get a good whiff.

All were amazed. Although a few people did give me quizzical looks afterwards, and questioned" "Do you work here"?

Uh, no, I just uh....

Bill

NOTES:

:) my favorite rose
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 07:17 pm

RE: From inspiration to reality... (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 01.31.2013 at 01:17 pm in Building a Home Forum

We used GAF Camelot Aged Oak for our roofing shingles.
The stone is new england field stone from stoneyard.com...the stone is real stone that is sawed thin so it installs like thin stone.

Much of the stone walls and terracing came from stone dug out of the foundation when we built the house....it blended in very nicely with the purchased stone which was applied to the foundation wall.

I need to update this pic...every time I look at it, it annoys me. We have since painted that garage door to match the trim color.

This post was edited by AnnieDeighnaugh on Fri, Feb 1, 13 at 9:23

NOTES:

Stone yard.com real stone sawed rhin
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 10:03 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 10:04 am

RE: What Are Your Favorite DAHLIAS For Cutting? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lizalily on 01.14.2007 at 03:07 pm in Cutting Garden Forum

Thanks for the wonderful, cheerful dahlia photos, Flowerfarmer! I see several that I love but didn't know! Especially a nice bridght red one in your previous post.

I just found my list of dahlias so here are my favorites for cutting from it, excluding the Karmas:

AA-A

Spartacus
Snowbound
Cafe au lait
Vera's Elma
Golden Years
Bracken's Palomino

B

April Dawn
Nenakazi(fim)
Xenon (Fim)
Centercourt (White)
James Albin (Yellow)
Ripples (Deep purple)
Beverly F

BB

Ala Mode
Bana Rama
Chilson's Pride
Imperial Wine
Koppertone
( wonderful autumn fire colors!)
Procyon " " " "
September Morn " " " "
Just Peachy...a real favorite and great producer!
Stars Favorite.. prolific pink cactus with curved petals
Grandma June(much more prolific then Gay Princess)
Gay Princess
Kari Fruit salad (Prolific and cute!)
Keewatin Pioneer

Miniatures

Angel's dust
(white wl with lavender dusting)
Brandon James (apricot bi-color) very prolific!
Ruby Red (Red waterlily everyone loves!)
FuzzyWuzzy (Hot pink with white tips.Really cute!)
Rebecca Lynn...I vote with Flowerfarmer on this one! (Goes well with Fuzzy-Wuzzy)
Razzmatazz
Edinburgh (grape and white bicolor)
Fidalgo Blacky

Pompoms and Balls

Barbarry Ball
Pineapple Lollipop
Little Matthew...(Prolific little 1" purple red balls on long stems)
Cornell
Jomanda
Barbarry Dominion
Barbarry Intrepid
Hillcrest Kismet

Waterlily

Alexander Brodi
Mazama
Painted Desert
Wildwood MArie
Ethan Troy
Pam Howden

I also have a few Of Dutch Gardens Spider dahlia collection that have been extremely prolific and good cutflowers for years now. I have thinned down to my favorite of the salmon/ yellow combinations in a pastel and a darker one, a cream colored one, and a pink and white. THey make excellent cut flowers.

THese are not all I have but are the best for cutting that were producing well for me last year.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:41 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:41 am

RE: Clear, jelly-like substance on peach tree (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: scottfsmith on 05.15.2012 at 01:09 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

The peaches are oozing gum. The most common reason is you have oriental fruit moth in the fruits. Peaches with plum curculio also can ooze, but not big quantities like OFM damaged peaches. Cut open some of the oozing fruits and look for a white worm and a trail inside. Sometimes peaches ooze because there is a physical injury or problem with how the fruit grew, and lots of rain can cause them to ooze in those spots. The stuff on the leaves probably fell off some fruits.

Scott

NOTES:

Oriental fruit moth or plum curculio
clipped on: 06.07.2014 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2014 at 08:06 pm

RE: Thoughts on putting the range in the island? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 05.28.2012 at 12:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

An island cooking station can be a GREAT feature of a home! IF it's done correctly with an eye towards function and not the mental cooking show fantasy where there are no consequences for skipping on the functional needs of such a setup.

A range on the island can work...

IF you plan for enough clearance behind the cooktop for safety. That means 9" for those pan handles to protrude into. Then you can start the overhang for any seating. So, if you want seating, add that 9" to the recommended overhang for seating, which is 15" for counter height, making it a full 24" behind the cooktop. Then you have to account for the needed aisle space for traffic, which is 48" at minimum for people to scoot by, or preferably 60" so people can walk behind seated folks. If you will have cabinets across from the cooktop and behind the seated diners, you are up to needing a 16' wide kitchen to make this work safely.

IF you have enough island length to be able to create a prep zone next to the cooking zone. If the island is short in length, you will end up prepping elsewhere, usually next to your sink, and you will have your back turned to the cooking zone rather than your vision of facing outwards. Functionally, this means that you island will need to be at least 36" of prep space + 12" of emergency landing space + range size + 15" of emergency landing space. For a 36" cooktop, the island needs to be at least 88". But that still leaves you turning back and forth to the water source to wash produce and your hands, or get that pot of pasta water. For a more efficient prep space, you need a prep sink on the island to create a "cockpit" where you only shift back and forth maybe a step or two between prepping and cooking. So, add in a 21" cabinet to hold a 18" prep sink, and at least another 12" cabinet to the other side so there is a bit of a landing space, and that 88" island now needs to be 121" to be the most efficient for you ergonomically. Do you want seating on one end of that island? Add in 15" for an overhang. You are now at 136". Now, add in the 48" aisle clearance between the working end of the island and the 25" of counter that's across from that working end, and the length of the kitchen is up to 209". But you haven't accounted for the aisle behind the seating area on the end of the island. Add in another 60" before you can place a sofa if it's open to another room, and you now need a room that is 23' x 16' to do an island cooking zone without compromising function somewhere. You might have that much space, since it's a new build, but those renovating rarely do.

IF you can manage the more difficult logistics and additional expense of island ventilation. An island vent hood needs to be much wider and deeper to do the same job as a smaller wall hood because you don't have the adjacent cabinets and wall to direct the cooking steam, smoke, and grease into the capture area. So, you need a larger capture area. And more CFM to serve that capture area. More CFM will most likely lead to a need for makeup air, which can add significantly to the cost of the project. It can be a case of a 10K ventilation system just to satisfy the local codes if you go with a high BTU cooking appliance. Even if you just choose a consumer grade cooking appliance and an island location, you will have to compromise somewhere in the ventilation needs if you are not to trigger the makeup air requirement. Either you go too low of a CFM to trigger the makeup air requirement, and have grease and steam carrying odors throughout the house, or you don't end up cooking very much to avoid that situation. Want a downdraft instead? Think jet engine noise levels in order to create enough of an actual draft to suck the naturally rising steam, and heat back downwards and out. That can pull the flame of a gas burner to the side and leave that pasta water needing a half hour to actually come to even a simmer. And that doesn't solve the problem of the makeup air issue either. Of course, if you rarely cook, then a low CFM downdraft can probably handle most of your ventilation needs, but it's the rare person who rarely cooks who plans a kitchen renovation!

Since you are in the planning stages, you can afford to take the time to address each of these issues properly. You may find it's much easier to compromise on the location of the cooking zone than to satisfy the needs of an optimized functioning island cooking and prepping zone. Much more time is spent in prepping for cooking than cooking itself (70% vs. 10%) and that is why you will see more islands as dedicated prep zones than cooking zones. It's easier to have all of the zones you need in a smaller space when you design it with the cooking against a wall.

NOTES:

If you put cooktop on islan
clipped on: 06.02.2014 at 02:07 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2014 at 02:07 pm

RE: Reclaimed wood floors-opinions and experiences (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: idrive65 on 06.12.2009 at 11:26 am in Flooring Forum

I have reclaimed antique white oak floors throughout my house. (Upstairs we mixed antique white oak, red oak and chestnut in some rooms). I love it, it looks and feels warm and never shows dirt. I have a more "distressed" looking floor because I like knotholes, wormholes, nailholes, etc. and I have two teenagers and a dog.

White Oak floors, Antique Chestnut fireplace surround
Family room

Mix of White Oak, Red Oak, and Chestnut
Chestnut, red & white oak

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.31.2014 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2014 at 09:30 pm

RE: Master BR Adjacent to Family Room (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: PHD12 on 05.28.2014 at 10:12 am in Building a Home Forum

Our new house will have the master bedroom sharing a wall with the tv portion of the family room. I'm planning on handling it with the following:
1) Roxul Safe and Sound mineral wool in the wall cavities
2) Air sealing around the junction boxes for outlets and data/cable lines with a putty pad
3) Quietrock sheetrock on both wall faces

You can find youtube vids detailing all 3. Another side benefit is all 3 offer fire resistance benefits as well.

NOTES:

Soundproofing
clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 07:50 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 07:50 pm

RE: How to tell quality custom cabinetry? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jakuvall on 05.14.2014 at 08:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

When assessing for my own business I look for:
-Boxes dowelled and glued.together as opposed to screwed.
-Dadoed backs, 3/8 minimum with good hanging rails or 3/4"
-Blum or Grass glides and hinges
Glides mounted with euro screws, 5mm diameter, more than two per
-Fully catalyzed varnish. Almost no one can ever tell me what the wet build of the finish is. I'm looking for 6 mil and can pretty much tell even in matte. 6 is enough, looks good, smooth but not too thick.
-The ability to omit intermediate stretchers between drawers, or that they are not there to begin with. Increases height between drawers and indicates a well built stiff box.
-I like to have at least the option of a synthetic edge banding and look for how well it matches.
-Tolerance of cabinet sides to top and bottom of less than 1/32, I really expect almost perfect.
-I actually prefer to have a furniture board option, 45 lb long grain ( particle board). Gotten rarer especially with veneer interiors thanks to misguided consumer blowback.
-Feel edges of doors and drawers should be silky.
-Do they bother to properly finish bottoms of drawers.
-A detail on drawer tops is "nice" but no biggie.
-Look at a couple of doors on angle with some glare on them. Looking for hairline sanding scratches, dust specks and tiny dimples(fish eye) speaks a lot to quality.
-like to see a little glue along the back, not gobs but some. No pins.
-Get all that and it's as good as better to top end manufactured.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 03:21 pm

RE: Painted white or wood stained? How do you decide? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: needsometips08 on 07.15.2009 at 02:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

For the counter, I am hoping to find a granite that is very calm like the White Princess one firsthouse_mp just found. I love the idea of quartz, but they just keep looking so modern and not warm.

I am up in the air about the glaze too. I have time to decide that.

Sweeby test:

The feel:
Warm
Elegant
Comfortable
Tranquil
Homey
Light
Traditional yet a clean look � not overly ornate or foo-foo
Mix of finishes

I want my kitchen to be a palatte of calm, tranquil, yet striking features that have depth and exude warmth. I want to create a kitchen that feels warm and homespun, yet wrapped in elegance. I want natural sunlight to bathe the space, and warm woods underfoot. I want creamy white to sit side by side with natural wood with brown/yellow undertones. I want the countertops to feel clean and unbusy. I want my backsplash to have a calm and uniform sparkle to it � something that adds zing without clutter. I would like the focal points to be a gorgeous island, a beautiful wood hood, and the archway millwork with the armoire and chandelier in the background.

Inspiration kitchens:

NOTES:

"Warm and homespun" "creamy white side by side with natural wood"
clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 08:07 am

Finally posting my new 'antique' kitchen for the FKB

posted by: arlosmom on 05.25.2010 at 07:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Some of you may remember my kitchen. I posted pictures of it at 80% completion almost 2 years ago. Since then, I've been finishing all the little nagging details that take a while to figure out -- window treatments, decor, etc. You know how it goes. Well, we recently bought a new camera with a wide angle lens and I took a bunch of new kitchen photos, and it occurred to me that it was finally time to officially declare the kitchen "done". So here goes.

Background:

When we bought our 1905 foursquare house in 2004, it was in very original condition with few updates or changes. That was a big part of the appeal for us. The widow who owned the house before us had been here since 1942, and she and her husband had raised their five children here with only one bathroom.

I loved the original kitchen, but it was small and had no dishwasher (and no place to add one), and very limited cabinet and counter space. It also had 4 doorways, a back staircase, and a low window to work around. We made the original kitchen into our breakfast room (changing as little as we could about the space), and built a rear addition with the new kitchen, a small walk-in pantry, powder room, and screened porch. We tried very hard to keep the look and feel of the original kitchen and make a space that fit with the character of the whole house. The new kitchen space is approximately 10' by 17'.

Whenever possible, we incorporated materials that were original to the house, salvaged or antique. The wood floors, lighting, cabinet hardware, sinks in both the kitchen and powder room, doors (to the pantry, powder room and screened porch), and stained glass panel are all old.

Details:

Cabinets -- Crownpoint (I ordered them primed and hand painted them myself with Ben Moore OC13 oil based satin impervo)
Cabinet hardware -- antique latches and pulls, mostly from ebay
Flooring -- reclaimed heart pine in random widths from 8"-13"
Lighting -- antique lighting that we cleaned and rewired
Range -- Wolf all gas
Range hood -- Viking insert in custom steel powder coated hood
Backsplash -- antique subway tile with Pratt & Larson egg and dart accent liner tile
Dishwasher -- Bosch with cabinet panel
Refrigerator -- Amana that we purchased when we bought the house, but cabinet built for 36" counter depth
Sink -- double drainboard sink came with the house; my guess is it dates to the 1930s
Faucet -- Chicago faucet with custom spout ordered from Baths From the Past

Here is just one teaser photo, with a link to the rest of the album (why is it that when I go to take pictures, I don't notice things like dishes drying on the drainboard?...oh well, I hope you don't notice them either):

from breakfast room into new kitchen addition

Here is a link that might be useful: Arlosmom's kitchen

NOTES:

sink similar to harborbrook?
clipped on: 04.25.2014 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2014 at 09:10 pm

RE: Kitchen Remodel DONE! Lots of pics... (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: maryannboffey on 06.13.2012 at 12:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,
Sorry just checked my post and saw all your questions and requests.
I'm trying to post a "before" pic from the real estate ad; this was a complete remodel. Original cabinets were 1985 orangy smelly oak with peach-toned laminate tops, and a peninsula running in the opposite direction as the new island. Also we moved the door over into where the fridge was, and added more cabinet space in the new fridge wall.

And here are answers to questions posted:
Cabinets were from Huntwood, door style is Hamlet, color is Colonial White.

Runners are Safavieh, purchased on Overstock.com

Microwave cabinet is standard upper depth of 12", hubby hates how it sticks out but it works great.

Granite is bare, haven't sealed it, not having any staining issues but I clean up oil and acid quickly.

Wood countertop was ordered from craftart.com as Contractor level DIY. I bought a router bit from Home Depot and our contractor cut it down to 3x7 and routed the edge. I then did the DIY finish using instructions from craftart. Used sanding dust mixed with superglue as filler in knot holes, etc. Very happy with the quality and price. Cost for 4x8 was about $1100 shipped including finish materials.

Any other questions, you can email directly to me at boffeys@gmail.com
Thanks!
Mary Ann

NOTES:

wood counter craftart.com
clipped on: 04.14.2014 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 04.14.2014 at 09:27 am

RE: what kind of sound baffling insulation? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: motherof3sons on 04.11.2014 at 11:36 pm in Building a Home Forum

We insulated all walls and lower level ceilings with regular batt insulation. The noise transfer from the upper floor was significant. We had water damage and had to replace the walls and ceilings in a lower level bedroom. After much research on sound insulation, we chose to use the Roxul, foam around all openings, and put "putty" around the electrical boxes. Plus used reslilient channel on the ceiling for the drywall. In my opinion there is a definite difference. The true test was a week ago when our son and dot-in-law visited with their little ones. They both said the room was much quieter. It cost more, but certainly worth it for us.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.14.2014 at 06:35 am    last updated on: 04.14.2014 at 06:35 am

RE: Help with off white / ivory - everything I try looks peachy : (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.22.2012 at 11:20 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

BM Mascarpone (an Affinity color). We used that in our downstairs entryway and the FR off that entryway. Slight yellowish cast, but we preferred that to peach/flesh-toned off-whites and creams. Some colors we liked when painted on one wall, read a bit peach/fleshy on other walls in our downstairs. Mascarpone is a nice creamy color, does not read peach at all, and it really does look like the Italian creamy cheese for which it's named!

Other BM colors we considered; Paper Mache, Steam, White Down, Moonlight White (among others!).

We wanted a cream color for the FR/entry, but for our guest bedroom we used Muslin, which is an awesome color. It reads cream in my friend's house. They used it in her large foyer, LR/DR; all part of an open floor plan with nice high ceilings. In our guest bedroom it reads deeper than that and looks somewhat khaki at night, but we like it at all times of day.

NOTES:

BM mascarpone and muslin
clipped on: 04.10.2014 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2014 at 03:12 pm

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.

Details:

Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.







NOTES:

love this
clipped on: 03.26.2014 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 03.26.2014 at 08:14 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen! Creamy French Classic (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: adh673 on 05.15.2011 at 08:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you everyone for your compliments :-) I knew I was missing details so thanks for reminding me.

The floors are from a mill in Tennessee which we got a amazing deal on. The mill is called Blackford and Son and my contact is Luke Blackford. You can message me for his email. They come unfinished and we had them site finished in waterlox. The quality is high, so the floors only needed a light screening. It was about 40% of what I was going to pay for Carlisle walnut floors. I think Carlisle is a great company but the pricing wasnt close.

The Shiloh dark wood hutch and island (cant believe I forgot that) is knotty alder with a walnut stain and a black glaze.

The waterglass french door is from Simpson company.

The barstool are from Ballards. They are only 9 inches or something, so they fit under my 12 inch overhang, which I know is a kitchen no no but that is all the room I had and the kids love hanging out there while we cook.

The dining room walls are actually a dimensional stencil I did with joint compound and a damask stencil from Cutting Edge. The lower part is Ben Moore Statutory Bronze metallic paint which I dont find very metallic personally but I still like it. I did the upper first as a sort of tuscan skim coat colorwashed in various taupes to cover the dark blue paint that was there, then did a raised stencil using the bronze metallic paint.

The Ben Moore paint colors:
Kitchen: Algonkian Trail, eggshell
Hall/LR: Sherwood Tan, matte
Bath, Above rail is Linen White eggshell; below rail is Hillcrest Tan, Eggshell
Family Room: Base Linen White Eggshell, Colorwash with Alexandria Beige.

The kitchen chairs are painted in valspar spray paint churchill vanilla

The granite is Western Sage Brush from Africa and milled in Italy, bought from Elegant Marble in Sterling, VA and fabricated by Dominion Granite. The people at Elegant Marble said that this was an unusual run of the Western Sage Brush. It is all taupe, grays, some copper/brown streaks, a little black here and here. Its very subdued and I had never seen it before. We were going to go with Typhoon Bordeaux originally but by the time we were ready to order, we didn't like the slabs for that. So we did a rushed 3 state manhunt for something else and fortunately found this, which we really like.

The grout color is alabaster. We almost went with a mix of that and antique white but the tile guy talked us into just the lighter grout, and it was a good result. I like the backsplash but I do actually miss the darker paint that was there. However, in the summer the kitchen doesnt get a ton of light because all the trees that surround the house so the light, reflective subways are good for keeping it bright. But in the winter with all the natural light, I sort of preferred the contrast. So I guess, I need a reversible back splash to be totally happy year round. We sealed with miracle 511. We also pre-sealed since it is a crackle tile, we didnt want the crackle filled with grout.

For the undercabinet lights, we used linear lighting. (I put in link). It's really great, you see no defined light source just overall glow and its on a dimmer so you can infinite control. We have puck lights in the basement kitchen and I thought I liked those, but these are WAY better and they dont get the counters hot.

We also got talked out of plugmold by the electrician for most of the backsplash, I dont remember how he did that since I was set on it, but something about the big boxes he would have to use for everything close to the sink and range. And there were a few places I knew I would always have things plugged in and didnt want the cords dangling up, so in the end, there wasnt much advantage though I did find it challenging trying to paint matching lightplates. But we did use plugmold on the hutch where it works fine and I dont think is noticeable at all. We also put a bunch of outlets in one of the hutch uppers so its now a charging station for cameras and phone and ipods, etc. The phone jack is also there and we drilled a small hole so the phone could go sit on the hutch without cords everywhere.

I think that is it, thanks again for the feedback!

Here is a link that might be useful: linear undercabinet lighting.

NOTES:

blackford and sons floors tennessee
clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 09:24 am

White & gray kitchen reveal, lots of pics!

posted by: lcskaisgir on 02.22.2014 at 10:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen is 90% done! Finally!! But is it ever really done? Started around Thanksgiving. Most things were done by Christmas but backsplash and paint were just completed a few days ago. Mostly we used the same foot print as the old kitchen with some minor changes. Mostly just wanted an update to the old white appliances and thermofoil cabinets.

Still to do: fireplace tile, base moldings, window treatments, rug? & chairs?

Things that remained the same: floor, kitchen table & chairs, chandelier over table, disposal, walk-in pantry

Products used:

perimeter cabinets: Shiloh, Charleston door, beaded inset, Polar White

island cabinets: Shiloh, Charleston door, beaded inset, Silas stain w/black glaze

appliances: all Kitchenaid, Pro line (36" counter depth fridge, 30" double convection oven, 24" built-in microwave, 36" cooktop, dishwasher)

hardware: Amerock Lattice (in various sizes)

counter: Calacatta quartzite

sink: Blanco silgranit Diamond 1.5 bowl in cinder (from HomePerfect)

faucet: Danze Opulence

backsplash tile: gray crackle subway and mosaic from Tile Daily

paint color: SW collonade gray

stools: American Heritage Monaco from Wayfair

pendants: crystal chandelier pendant from Great Chandeliers

recessed lights: 6" ecosmart LED

UCL: LED from Priority Lighting (don't know brand)

above cabinet lighting: maxlite LED

hood insert: best (290 cfm)

cutlery insert: woodhollow

Also: plugmolds and replaced pantry door w/solid wood door

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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There is so much in the super susan; blender, toaster, several food processors, huge stock pot, cookie cutters, rolling pins, etc.
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A trim piece still needs to be installed under the counter from the drawers to the wall in the desk area(not sure if it's called a valance or an apron?) photo IMG_9041_zps4b8e6746.jpg

We had a hole drilled in the counter where the TV sits and used this grommet. The outlet and cable jack are down below in the cabinet. We did the same thing in the desk area for the computer and phone. photo IMG_9016_zps4b29abe5.jpg

These gray corbels were supposed to go on my island. They initially sent me the wrong ones. Now that I have the correct ones, I'm not sure if I want to use them anymore. I kind of like the island as is. I would love to find another use for them. photo IMG_9013_zpsc29b23cf.jpg

I had many inspiration photos from both Houzz and Garden Web. I learned SO much from this forum from electrical, to counters, to lighting, to plugmolds. Every photo and comment has been so very helpful. Thank you to everyone who has shared their knowledge. Some mistakes were made and we spent way more than we thought we would, but overall I am very pleased.

This post was edited by lcskaisgir on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 9:17

NOTES:

backsplash and cabinet door style
clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 08:59 am    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 09:00 am

LindaC, will you share your recipe for blue cheese dressing

posted by: angelaid on 06.29.2009 at 03:51 pm in Cooking Forum

please? A neighbor brought a tub over and asked if I would make him some dressing.

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clipped on: 03.10.2014 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2014 at 08:02 pm

RE: Your Caesar dressing secret? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: publickman on 03.06.2014 at 07:19 pm in Cooking Forum

Here's how I make mine:

Caesar Salad Dressing
2 tablespoon anchovy paste (or 4 anchovies minced)
1 coddled egg*
1 large clove garlic, or two medium ones
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lime juice (can substitute lemon juice)
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 dashes Tabasco sauce
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup extra-light olive oil
1/4 to 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a blender or food processor, blend together all ingredients except the olive oil and Parmesan cheese until well combined. While still blending, slowly drizzle the olive oil in until well combine and thickened. Pour into a container and stir in the grated Parmesan cheese. Serve over romaine lettuce with freshly shaved Parmesan cheese and croutons.

Lars

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clipped on: 03.06.2014 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2014 at 07:24 pm

House Raising and Remodel

posted by: pattykate54 on 09.06.2011 at 10:22 am in Remodeling Forum

As my partner and I are waiting somewhat patiently for our estimates to come in for our whole house remodel, I can't help but think that maybe we are in too far over our heads!
We own a 110 year old home located in a small town in the foothills of the Berkshires. The house has become more and more "rustic" over the past 3 years that we've lived here and we are finally ready and able to take some action in making it a more comfortable place to call home.
The 1600 sq. ft house that I can't quite call a cape, but would say is closest to that model of home, sits on a very uneven, crumbling stone foundation that has lots of open gaps and some spotty repairs that previous owners had attempted. The insulation in the basement is really non existent and the dirt floors are truly mud floors with areas of standing water throughout the year, especially lately with the recent weather in Western Massachusetts. The moisture comes right up through the floors and into our home, causing some major warping of the wood and poor air quality. We have had some contractors come to give estimates on a new foundation and have discovered that we are going to have to have the house raised a few feet, some excavating done and then new foundation poured to give us a full basement, (half of the area now is simply a crawl space). In order to do this we are told that we will have to have 6 trees along the back side of the house removed, they line the west side of the house about 8-10 feet from the foundation, an old porch addition demolished and one of the chimneys taken down about 30 inches from the top. These things are just so that we can raise the house. We are then going to extend the foundation another 10x22 (I think) where that old porch addition was, to add a new addition for my partner's home office and to extend the first floor master bedroom.
I really wanted to add three dormers upstairs as well as make one of the open rooms up there a legal bedroom, finish all the floors and replace most of the windows on the first floor in this remodel, but I am afraid to even guess what this basement project is going to end up costing! With the repairs and remodeling I am hoping we will have about a 100k in equity which will of course be used up for the financing of this project. Does anyone have any guesses as to what this is going to cost us? There is a part of me that just wants to move! I am excited but I'm growing impatient waiting for these estimates to come in! Any thoughts?

NOTES:

show matt
clipped on: 01.24.2014 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2014 at 08:44 pm

Pictures of your favorite Austin roses

posted by: Sara-Ann on 01.22.2014 at 08:13 pm in Roses Forum

I would love to see your pictures of your favorite Austin roses and their attributes, if you would like to share.

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clipped on: 01.23.2014 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2014 at 02:58 pm

"Four Gables" by Mitchell Ginn

posted by: LacieAnnie on 08.14.2013 at 06:10 pm in Building a Home Forum

My husband and I are planning a build next year and I was hoping for input on Mitchell Ginn's "Four Gables" plan. We are looking for a classic farmhouse feel and I love the porches on this one. We would like to put it on a basement though, and I wonder if it is worth it to take away from the laundry room for the staircase or if I should find another solution?
If anyone has seen this plan built or if you have pictures it would be greatly appreciated! I have looked at thousands of plans and I am trying to narrow it down. If anyone has pictures of "Stone Creek" I would appreciate those as well. Thank you!

http://mitchginn.com/house-plans/2341-sq-ft-�-four-gables/

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.23.2014 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2014 at 02:55 pm

Finished Kitchen - Creamy with Walnut

posted by: mythreesonsnc on 09.18.2011 at 09:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi GW,

We've been busy unpacking and moving. I keep planning to post my finished kitchen, but have been so slow actually getting it done. Always messy, and never quite "done." But, not sure it ever will be!

Thanks to all for so much help and inspiration. My layout definitely was made more functional after asking for help from you all, and the details and pictures are so helpful as well. I have enjoyed watching so many kitchens come together on this forum and I hope my pictures and details will help some people with their decisions. Thank you all!

Some details...
The house is new construction, so I was able to get out my graph paper and outline my ideas. It has been a really fun process, though it is nice to finally get to live here!
Cabinets: Local guys (Hogan and Co) --- painted Benjamin Moore Manchester Tan. ( It looks doesn't look tan at all though because the floors are dark)
Paint: Walls BM Greenbrier Beige, Trim Manchester Tan
Backsplash: Honed Crema Marfil 3x6
Appliances: Subzero all-fridge, Subzero all-freezer, Wolf rangetop, Sharp microwave drawer, Kitchenaid fridge drawers, U-line fridge freezer drawers (in butler's pantry), Kitchenaid dbl ovens and kitchenaid dishwasher drawers.
Floors: Random width walnut (3, 4, and 5 ") finished with oil based poly in satin.
Counters: Island: wide plank walnut finished with Waterlox, perimeter granite: White Diamond granite
Sinks: Prep sink- Ticor, Island sink- Shaw's, Butler's Pantry - hammered copper from Copper Sinks online
Faucets: Kohler Fairfax in prep, Perrin and Rowe at island (the water sprayer annoyingly drips) and Kohler Vinnata in Butler's pantry

The main part of the kitchen is really just the range wall (with fridge and freezer flanking), opposite the island, which has the sink, a dishwasher, trash /recycling and microwave. The other cabinets /drawers are extra storage. Things I love in here: The big drawers below the rangetop for pots and pans (definitely big here on GW), the spice pull-outs, and the floors.
Here are some shots...

Image and video hosting by TinyPic
island:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic
If you look the other way, the range wall is opposite the fireplace in our keeping room. We love the openness of the layout. There are hidden doors above the window seats (see the paint on either side of the fireplace, those are big toy closets, accessed from above the windowseats, we love this)
Image and video hosting by TinyPic
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Breakfast area. The drawers on the right are fridge drawers. This is very handy. My kids have zero reason to get into the range area fridges. We keep milk and all drinks in here. This I love!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Prep pantry: Small little area, so hard to get a good shot. It is hidden behind these barn doors....
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Oven side:
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Sink side, with pass-through to breakfast area:
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Butler's pantry:
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Pantry (before we organized):
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The other side of the pantry, we put a counter. This works great for setting down groceries, preparing stuff, etc. I still want to find baskets that fit in the cubbies below.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

And that's it.... now that I just previewed, I realized all of these pics came out giant.... how annoying! I am not sure how to re-size them without uploading again. Sorry about that!

NOTES:

scullery area
clipped on: 01.10.2014 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 08:18 pm

Your favorite Austin?

posted by: dublinbay on 12.02.2013 at 08:35 am in Antique Roses Forum

I just started a thread on the other rose forum for favorite HT, just cuz I was curious, and now would like to try the same thing here in connection with Austins. I remember that we did a rather long survey some years ago on favorite roses in general, but I don't remember doing one (at least recently) on just Austins.

Let's try it. Please list your THREE top favorite Austins (any order) and briefly indicate WHY--beauty, fragrance, bs-resistance, good re-bloom, etc.

Let me start it. (Pause--I'm thinking. These are hard choices, right?)

Munstead Wood--guess everybody expected me to say that, didn't you! Beauty of bloom and oh, that color!, good bs-resistance so far, good re-bloom


Lady of Shalott--beauty of bloom and that unusual color; good bs-resistance; good re-bloom


The third choice is always the hard one, since I'm aware that I am fast running out of choices. The logical choice is Queen of Sweden--beauty, bs-resistance--but somehow not a rose I actually love (although I like her a lot). However, I just can't imagine an Austin garden without Molineux which makes my heart sing even though its blooms aren't quite as beautiful (but still very attractive--I love the apricot/golden/yellow colors) and I wish it were a bit more bs-resistant (though its not bad on that score)--so I guess my third choice will have to be Molineux.



Now I'm feeling guilty about all the other Austins I left out. These are tough choices!

Let's hear about your top three choices for favorite Austin. I'm curious to see if we have much of a consensus. : )

Kate


Edit: Added photos--to keep up with the other posters! : )

This post was edited by dublinbay on Sun, Dec 8, 13 at 11:50

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clipped on: 12.21.2013 at 08:32 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2013 at 08:32 pm

How to best grow Charentais melons?

posted by: scottfsmith on 03.29.2005 at 09:50 am in Heirloom Plants & Gardens Forum

I am growing Charentais for the first time this year. I decided to grow them on a trellis since they are small and don't slip when ripe. Now what I am trying to figure out is what the best soil condition is, so I can amend the soil in the mounds. A French friend tells me that the very best Charentais in France are grown in very chalky soil that also has a bit of hummus in it. Perhaps a mix of sand and compost would achieve something similar? Or maybe there is something in the chalk itself that affects the flavor. Maybe I should just buy a bag of chalk.

I am trying two different strains, the Baker Creek version and the "Charmel" version sold by Renee's seeds.

Scott

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clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 01:11 pm

Potatoes: how to get more to store?

posted by: sunnibel7 on 12.12.2013 at 11:04 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Okay, here's another question. I love potatoes but am relativley new at growing them here. I think I may be running into a bit of a mental block about how to grow them since the seasons here are so different from where I grew up. Up there you planted in the spring with fingers crossed that potatoes would sprout rather than rot and you mostly harvested at the end of summer because it goes from hot to cold pretty quick. Down here all the seasons are really stretched out, except winter which is much shorter. That's a long explanation for why I'm having trouble figuring out how to get my potatoes going the way I want.

Right now I'm planting in earlyish spring and harvesting in July. July potatoes store until about now in my cellar, but I guess it is too warm down there since they've been sprouting. I don't really have anywhere better to store them. What I would really like is to have potatoes through the winter that I grew myself. So what might be my best plan? I tried July planting some of the small tubers from the spring planting, but only a few came up and they were kind of slow, so didn't produce very much. (That worked better last year, but why?) Is there a way to make those get started sooner/stronger? Would choosing a later-maturing variety work? Would it make it through our hot summers? Is there some way to make my storage better? Cheers!

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clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 12:57 pm

Summer-bearing raspberries worth it? Other raspberry suggestions

posted by: reyesuela on 05.04.2012 at 06:42 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I've got room for 12 raspberries total. They'll all have 2' root barriers to keep them from beating up each other and the rest of the garden.

My goals are 1) fabulous taste, 2) long season (I'd love to have fruiting from June all the way through frost, if possible!), and 3) productivity.

I believe that the raspberries and blackberries in the grocery stores are virtually inedible--lightly flavored water, would be my description. I've had lots of wild blackberries and dewberries, and they taste NOTHING like the grocery store. I'd like raspberry varieties that are similarly distant from the clamshells at the supermarket.

The recommended varieties for my area are as follows:

Red summer bearing

Latham
Hilton
Titan
Taylor

*I know nothing of these. Are these worth it, or are the first flush of fruit from Caroline better?

Red (primocane-bearing, everbearing)
Heritage
Autumn Bliss
Caroline

*I'm planning on planting at least 3 Caroline and nixing the Heritage and Autumn Bliss.

Black

Allen
Jewell
Haut
Bristol

*Again, I know little, except that they fruit before the red primocanes. And what about the newer varieties, like Mac Black?

Purple
Brandywine
Royalty

*No clue...

Gold
Fallgold

*Planting one Kiwi Gold and one Anne instead

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clipped on: 08.23.2012 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 08.23.2012 at 10:16 am