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RE: Speed cook ovens--brands besides Advantium (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: tuba_paul on 06.25.2006 at 03:30 am in Appliances Forum

Speedcook ovens and convection microwaves are the same thing, some, like the advantium, just have better controls/sensors/programs than others.

The Turbochef is much faster than other speedcookers for two reasons: #1, they use higher velocity air for the convection (somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 mph--I think Sharp uses high-velocity convection as well). #2, more powerful microwave--the Turbochef's microwave component is 2000w (vs. 900w in the 120v Advantium). Thier convection element is someshere between 3k and 5k watts as well, if I recall correctly...

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clipped on: 05.31.2007 at 07:39 am    last updated on: 05.31.2007 at 07:40 am

RE: Anyone Have Electrolux Speed Oven? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: ladyrussell on 04.24.2007 at 12:38 pm in Appliances Forum

My Electrolux speed oven was installed a couple of weeks ago. So far I like it. Seems easy to use and it does cook fast. I love that the door swings down. I tried the recipe mode last week, it works great. All you do is follow the recipe book directions, place it in the oven and press the corresponding number and it automatically cooks with micro and convection. Last night I made scalloped potatoes in less than 30 minutes.

Here is a link that might be useful: photobucket

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clipped on: 05.29.2007 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2007 at 03:40 pm

RE: Why are Viking wall ovens so 'unpopular' here? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rococogurl on 04.11.2007 at 09:28 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a Viking kitchen and until recently had a Viking Designer Series wall oven, one with the knobs and the gorgeous clock.

Let me be diplomatic and just say that the complaints about the brand and the service, in my experience over the last 2-2/2 years, are mostly true. But service seems to be better in some parts of the country than in others.

Each of my appliances -- refrigerator, electric cooktop, hood, oven (I bought a Miele dW)-- has had some type of repair/replacement issue. Every one, except for the microwave.

The DESO 105 oven I had came with a defective fan, required 9 service calls, 3 clocks and the controls got so hot that on Thanksgiving, or when I was doing a lot of baking I couldn't change the oven temp without using a potholder. The oven vents out the top. (I believe the GE has copied Viking to some degree and vents from the top of the oven door and I'd look into that).

The bottom line is that the Viking ovens temperature "average". I don't understand the logic of it but, basically, the knobs don't allow for precise oven settings and the oven temperature cycles up and down, on and off. So I'd put bread in there and it didn't get an initial rise because after the preheat the oven cycled down. Pies burned. The self-cleaning cycle only cleaned half the oven.

The fact that the oven didn't heat properly after the defective part was replaced is the crux of my issue. IOW, the oven didn't work. But the deal breaker was when they refused to replace the oven.

How I was lucky enough to talk them into taking it back (and thus getting rid of me and my complaints) I can only guess. But they credited my dealer, who credited me the full price and I bought another brand. This oven vents from the bottom, nothing I touch on it gets hot and the operation is precise and flawless. It has an atomic clock which doesn't fail. It's so superior in terms of its performance that the Viking oven seems like a bad joke now.

Everyone here has different requirements and budgets. People do recommend what they like and some might exaggerate when things go wrong because it's upsetting to pay a lot and not have something work to expectations.

I got a huge amount of help from posters here during the time I was trying to evaluate which replacement oven to go with.

If you want to go with Viking, I wish you luck. I did, because I got a big discount for the bundling and because, new to the forum, I thought the complaints were exaggerated or that I'd just be lucky. I wasn't but that doesn't mean you won't be.

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clipped on: 04.11.2007 at 09:41 am    last updated on: 04.11.2007 at 09:42 am

RE: Counter Top: Practical a MUST but pretty too? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: tzmaryg on 01.30.2007 at 10:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Slate. It meets ALL of your requirements. It is totally non-porous. It has a honed finish. It needs no sealing etc. It has a variety of patterns. Some of which are pretty amazing. Ours is truly senuous. People can't keep their hands off it. Try searching slate on this site to get some pictures. Only drawback is the limited color range.

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slate
clipped on: 04.10.2007 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2007 at 03:16 pm

RE: Counter Top: Practical a MUST but pretty too? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: carolyn53562 on 01.30.2007 at 10:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I agree with Steve-o. Good design is independent of the cost of the materials used. Granite can look cheap in a kitchen, and laminate can look high end--it all depends upon the design and the context. I was in a very high end kitchen that had laminate counters and the laminate counters were the perfect choice for that kitchen--it was a very contemporary kitchen and the laminate was inset in wood with very sharp, clean edges and lines. I don't think that counter top choice has as much impact on resale value as having a nice, well designed kitchen that is in good shape. If I was looking for a new house, I would rather buy a house with laminate that I didn't like than with granite that I didn't like. There are a lot of granites that I would not want to live with just like there are a lot of laminates that I would not want to live with, but I'd feel better ripping out a laminate counter than a granite counter.

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wood counter set in laminate
clipped on: 04.10.2007 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2007 at 03:12 pm

RE: pull out pantry shelfs--height in between?? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tom999 on 04.09.2007 at 06:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would insist that they put in fully adjustable slide out shelves. This way as your life changes so can your shelves. This is VERY easy to do with KV1303 spacers. They install into standard metal standards and allow you adjustment every 1/2" in heigth.
If your Cabinet maker doesn't know about this items have him EMail me. I used these for 25 years in my shop with never a single problem.
Good Luck !

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clipped on: 04.09.2007 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2007 at 08:42 pm

RE: Tile guy wants rubber strips, not grout in shower corners? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: bill_vincent on 11.30.2006 at 11:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

avoid sanded caulk..which really has no place in a shower.

Again, I can't disagree more. In fact, these caulks were MADE for use in wet areas.

And it is OK nothing sticks to it...because when you recaulk, you NEVER caulk over old caulk, not matter what type it is...you remove ALL the old caulk and lay a new bead. Caulking over old caulk..NO.

I wasn't talking about caulking over the old bead. That's plain garbage. However, even after removing the old caulking, you'll still have a film of silicone on the surfaces in the corner, and new caulking WILL NOT STICK to it.

Darby-- I've used the Kerdi system several times, and I've YET to ever use any kind of strips. The corners have always been CAULKED.... with siliconized latex caulk.

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clipped on: 04.09.2007 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2007 at 04:14 pm

RE: Biggest waste of money in your kitchen? (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: brownli on 04.05.2007 at 06:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

And to add to the step ladder saga, ours is similar to cat_mom's, purchased at Costco - overall height=32 1/2", adding 20" to height. We also store ours as cat_mom mentioned, in a shallow/wide space - not deep/narrow space.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I'll need to qualify our biggest money waste - our chiller. We don't regret spending the money for 'a' chiller, it's just that 'this' chiller is too loud. So our waste was with 'this' chiller. We will be patient a bit longer, then search for a different model/brand, hoping it delivers chilled water as well as this one.

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clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 10:31 am

RE: Laminate Upscale?? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mondragon on 04.05.2007 at 06:45 am in Kitchens Forum

There have also been literally hundreds of posts about how much people love their durable granite countertops with no etching, chipping, scratching, cracking, etc.

Soapstone is a completely different material than granite. As is corian, as is laminate. I'm sorry your buyer didn't like your soapstone countertops - she probably would have been really happy with my granite, though.

I have seen a lot of pretty laminates but have never seen one that looked like real stone. People put up with things with laminate - burning, scratching, etc - because they're used to it, I guess, and then set a hugely high bar for other materials - it must look PERFECT NEW FOREVER OR IT IS FLAWED.

Whatever, as they say. If you're paying more for granite because you think you're supposed to as opposed to because you like it (the way it looks and its durability) then you might be wasting your money.

Solid-color laminates are trendy if you're doing the whole sleek euro-modern look. In most kitchens it will just look like laminate. It's not a different material than it was a few years ago, though, and I think there are reasons beyond trendiness for the current popularity of granite. I really doubt that the majority of people who have granite will start to hate it and tear it out to replace it with laminate, or that a resurgance of laminate will have the longevity that granite does in kitchen design.

All that said, it would be good if people for who it was appropriate didn't feel like they were settling or that it looked cheap. It can be very attractive and very practical cost-wise and the most appropriate choice in some circumstances. I considered it for a while but ended up squeezing my budget around in other ways that were more appropriate for me.

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Euro look -- laminate
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 09:36 am

RE: Help - are 'refrigerator walls' necessary ? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jgarner53 on 02.20.2007 at 02:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you'll be getting a SS fridge, the sides will be black, and you have to decide if you mind seeing the black side of the fridge all the time. If the only place you will see the side of the fridge is the side not against the hallway wall, it's up to you to decide if that 18" or so between the upper & lower cabinets, and from the front of the upper cabs to the front of the fridge is worth covering up.

You might be able to create a "side panel" that just fits that space, if you don't want to see the side of the fridge.

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clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 04:39 pm

RE: Sunroom size and flooring suggestions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sharon_sd on 07.03.2006 at 06:27 am in Remodeling Forum

We have had cork flooring in our kitchen and family room for over two years. This is a working farm and the cork is the main floor between the back door and the rest of the house. It looks almost as good as it did when it was installed. It is warm and comfortable underfoot, as well as easy to clean and forgiving when things fall on it. We had cork floors in our first home and really liked them, but they needed regular waxing. These modern ones don't.

Our cork is a medium brown Torlys uniclic that we laid ourselves. We have had no problems with fading, but before we installed ours, there was a discussion on the flooring forum where someone indicated that they had ripped our an entire houseful of cork floors because of the fading that ocurred in the first 6 months. It may be a problem with unstained cork, or with certain brands. If you are going to put it in a sun room, you might want to get a sample and try it in full sun for several days with something solid blocking the light to a part of it, so you can compare.

Here is a link that might be useful: Torlys flooring

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clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 10:33 am    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 10:33 am

RE: modern kitchen - black countertops - tight budget (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ljwrar on 02.05.2007 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Another option....

A few years ago, there were several discussions on epoxy resin and phenolic resin laboratory countertops. Two brands are Trespa and Lab Tops. You can get these in matte black. I recall the cost was less than stone. Hopefully, another old timer with a better memory will chime in here.

I see you live in CA. Trespa used to be in South SF or Brisbane.

Good luck.

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clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 04:47 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 04:47 pm

RE: modern kitchen - black countertops - tight budget (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: awm03 on 01.30.2007 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes, that Atlas Concorde Cementi does look very nice. It looks similar to the Crossville Character tiles, but slightly different colors. 45 cm x 45 cm is a hair smaller than 18 x 18 in.

Here is a link that might be useful: Atlas Concorde Cementi

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clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 04:39 pm

RE: modern kitchen - black countertops - tight budget (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: pierreone on 01.30.2007 at 08:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have a very modern kitchen, too, and went with quartz. I think a black quartz with your cabinets would look nice, but it can be on the expensive side.

A few have mentioned tile and I think that's a great idea. While looking at floor tile, we found a beautiful porcelain ceramic that looked exactly like black stained concrete. Matte, not shiny. The line was Atlas Concorde Cementi and the color was Tarmac Black.

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porcelain tile - black
clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 04:38 pm

I picked out my soapstone at the Quarry

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 01.16.2007 at 05:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I took a field trip today down to Charlottesville VA vicinity to the Alberene Soapstone Quarry. I got to look at their sawn (unguaged and unhoned) slabs. It's something to see, this place that's working soapstone with century-old equipment, a time warp. I picked out one of their harder grades of material which they call Church Hill.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

It contains a nice amount of veining, and the stuff I saw appeared to be free of defects like fissures and larg talc veins. I think this is going to work out nicely. They will have my slabs ready in about three weeks, if the parts for their machinery comes in.
Casey

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clipped on: 01.18.2007 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 01.18.2007 at 10:56 am

RE: Still can't decide on type of countertop (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: sharon_s on 11.16.2006 at 10:33 am in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is not fully operational, so I can't give you much working knowledge, but I have 3 boys and I went with soapstone for the perimeter and a quarzite stone for the island.

My soapstone is Belvedere, from Teixeira. So far so good. I highly second (or third) the advice to get samples and beat them up. We had about 6 different samples. Some needed oiling faster than others...

The quarzite I chose is white and gray. I wanted marble, but since the boys will be eating at the island, I just couldn't bring myself to do it. The light from the windows would highlight every ketchup etch mark (not sure how these boys manage to get ketchup EVERYWHERE!). I had it honed and sealed, so it won't stain. Here is a very messy picture of it from installation day.


I had Corian at my last house and it was very nice, too.

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clipped on: 11.28.2006 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 11.28.2006 at 10:43 am

RE: Still can't decide on type of countertop (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: joanne7 on 11.12.2006 at 11:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't think you have to worry about Soapstone. It is not porous. Just wipe it with mineral oil and it is as good as new. It will scratch but not a problem just sand and oil all traces of scratches are gone. This is what I have in my kitchen. If you get one of the harder Soapstone like Mariana then you will have no problem at all. It doesn't even scratch. I have heard the honed black granite will show finger marks but that eventually that goes away. I was thinking of going with that myself and talked with the lady who had an article about her kitchen in Renovation Magazine 2005 who model her kitchen after the movie Somethings Gotta Give. She at first notice prints but as time went on the granite just developed its own patina. She has two small boys. If you email me I could give you her phone number and you could call her yourself and ask her how she likes it. She was very nice and happy to share her knowledge about honed granite. She told me she loves it. Hope this helps.

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Mariana soapstone = harder
clipped on: 11.13.2006 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 11.28.2006 at 10:37 am

RE: organic donna's finished kitchen.....finally (Follow-Up #79)

posted by: organic_donna on 11.13.2006 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

The undercabinet LED lights are by Next Generation Lighting, Andy Lipman #1-312-243-1199. He can ship anywhere.
Donna

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clipped on: 11.14.2006 at 09:43 am    last updated on: 11.14.2006 at 09:43 am

RE: organic donna's finished kitchen.....finally (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: organic_donna on 11.11.2006 at 01:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

kitchenstump2, I was waiting to hear from you, glad you approve.
mari, I have a thin rail undercabinet light that is LED. I lucked out on the ceiling fixture, they were selling the floor model at Lightology. The rail and pendants are from Lightology, which is Tech Lighting. I wish you could see them in person. They are on their website under FJ T156 MR16 fixtures. I am going to replace my cabinet handles with stainless handles that match the refrigerater handle in the future. The sink is the Elkay Avado, a new design.
Donna

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RE: organic donna's finished kitchen
clipped on: 11.14.2006 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 11.14.2006 at 09:27 am

RE: organic donna's finished kitchen.....finally (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: organic_donna on 11.11.2006 at 11:16 am in Kitchens Forum

pdxliz,
Thanks, I wish I was "sexy and modern".
claybabe, the LED lights are in the picture above. I put in a call to the guy who made them to ask if I can post his number on this site. I live in Chicago but I'm sure he can ship them anywhere. They cost $600.00 for a 67" line. They are well worth the cost.
Donna

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LED lights
clipped on: 11.14.2006 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 11.14.2006 at 09:25 am

RE: How Much is That Counter in the Window? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: n41dgrs on 11.12.2006 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm about to purchase soapstone (Santa Rita) for approx. $24/sq. ft. Including the delivery charge to OH it will work out to approx. $32-$35 sq. ft. DIY - hopefully all will go well with the install.

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clipped on: 11.13.2006 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 11.13.2006 at 10:48 am

RE: teak finishing question to mongo (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: flyleft on 07.13.2006 at 07:24 pm in Bathrooms Forum

O.K., mongo, my brain is *somewhat* here...

I did try some Watco teak oil as one of my test finishes...it was the weakest by far in terms of water/toothpaste/soap resistance. The Osmo came in second, and the plastic bag approach (spar varnish) was of course untouchable. Osmo is also by far the most user-friendly to apply. Almost no noxious fumes. It's available at environmental home building materials centers.

But I saw someone mention on a thread in Kitchens a product called Waterlox--I bought some of it (original formula) today and have tried a test patch. I'm going to go through that procedure and will have more data then.

Re the concrete: it's smooth, definitely, and was a high-end piece along with the cherry butcher block pieces I bought, but I want to make it I guess what I feel when I feel one that's been sealed/waxed; I love that feeling. The Sealer's Choice Gold is what I also tried on my unglazed porcelain today, actually, and the Waterlox is also indicated for concrete! My sealer cup runneth over :) So I'll be conducting lots of tests.

Re cutting it: thanks for the reminders about what might be inside. I don't see any evidence on the sides or back of anything put in, which of course doesn't mean that there's not a piece of rebar or mesh or cloth tucked inside. Considering that it cost us $17, I will give it a try with the diamond blade (guess I drill starter holes and then connect them somehow? Have to see what the configuration will be with the laundry sink first)and see what happens. We're going to use that counter around the laundry sink pretty hard so I want to use the concrete counter for it rather than the cherry.

To be honest, I wish I had the room in my kitchen for an island; I'd make a countertop out of the cherry with it. But alas, I didn't find them in time, so it's into the laundry room they go. Kind of ironic, considering back when I was remodeling the kitchen I was really dreaming of a butcherblock unit next to the stove but decided it would be too much expense/trouble just for that little piece...oh well.

Thanks again!

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clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 10:52 am

pictures (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 06.23.2006 at 09:53 am in Bathrooms Forum

Okay, I'm a bit slow...here are progress pics. Obviously the bath isn;t finished...



Photobucket - Video and Image HostingNeat looking sconce from Justice design. Threw this in because I've gotten a lot of questions on it from another picture posted earlier. It's an oil-rubbed bronxe finish, the shade is porcelain. Design is "waterfall", they offer it in about six other patterns in the shade. Nicely constructed, has a halogen bulb. Looks fab. The shade is a bit white when not lit up, but gives a lovely glow when the bulb is illumninated.


Photobucket - Video and Image HostingTeak closeup.


Photobucket - Video and Image HostingTub deck.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Sink countertop. Countertop front is bowed (arched) a bit to cover the breakfront on the cabinets below. Backsplash is incomplete. Soffit over toilet is to cover a vent pipe that jobs out from under the main beam in the house, but I oversized it to create a bit of enclosure above the toilet.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Cabinetry has flat panels in these pics. They were evnetually finished with fabric inserts. Nice fabirc, delicate design. Softens the overall look, so to speak.

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clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 10:46 am

RE: Paging Mongoct - more teak coutertop questions (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mongoct on 10.06.2006 at 10:29 am in Bathrooms Forum

Jerzeegirl,

All depends on what the countertop will be used for (food/non-food, etc), how the countertop will be treated (dinged up like in a kitchen or limited chance of damage like in a bath) as well as the aethetic of the finish (a penetrating finish or a film finish).

Depends on the wood that is used as well.

Personally, I wouldn't use a more difficult-to-repair film finish in a hard-used kitchen. In a bath, I sure would, as the likelyhood if it getting dinged is remote and although a penetrating is not a whole lot of work to renew and maintain, a film finish is for the most part much more durable and virtually maintenance free. Especially around oils/lotions, deodorants, toothpastes, makeup, etc.

This is teak, in a half bath.

As I wrote in my previous post, "But it is a coin toss. There are myriad ways to skin this cat, each with its pro's and con's."

Believe me, my guidelines above are not the only way. Every wood treatment is a compromise between use, durability, aesthetic, etc.

It depends on how you weigh the variables, how you live, and what's important to you as the end-user.

This thread was in regards to a previous post, so I'm regurgitating what I did in that post.

Teak in a kitchen? I'll give you a different answer.

Teak outdoors? Yet another.

And every answer I give may very well be different than the answer someone else will give you.

Be variable,

Mongo

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clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 10:41 am

RE: Paging Mongoct - more teak coutertop questions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mongoct on 10.05.2006 at 10:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Go brew a pot of coffee...you're gonna need it to read this post...(g)

Okay, teak...it's dense, it's oily.

Prior to joining boards I wipe down the to-be-glued surfaces with acetone. The acetone will cut the oil given off by the teak and give you a clean surface for glueing.

"Glue?" I join teak with West Systems epoxy. Any good 2-part will suffice. I sometimes use a bit of teak sawdust (fine from sanding, not coarse from the tablesaw) as a filler and colorant for the epoxy. When edge-joining, I also use bicuits.

Finishing? Again, I wipe it down with acetone.

I use a good brush (most of mine are "Purdy" or "Wooster" brand) and on the teak that I posted for Fly I used Minwax's Helmsman Spar Urethane. NOT SPAR VARNISH.

Here's the deal with film finishes: If you try to make it look gorgeous on the first coat, you're going to overwork the finish and end up with brush marks and probably air bubbles.

Apply the first coat. Don't be ginger. Just get the finish on. Not too thin, not too thick. Goldilock's it.

Air bubbles? Who cares. They'll settle out. Brush marks? Again, as the film finish dries, it'll self-level and the brush marks will fade and the bubbles will pop.

Most woods take film finishes unevenly, as the wood itself is "uneven" so to speak. The grain is in one direction here, another there. It'll absorb and hold the film finish more in some areas, less in others.

Think of the first coat as simply the "sealing coat", almost like a sanding sealer when dealing with blotch-prone wood.

Anyhow, get the first coat on. As I wrote, you don't want to be sloppy, but you want to get it on without overworking the finish. You don't want to go back and brush over previously applied areas. And again, the lines will settle, any bubbles will pop.

If they don't? No worries, you have a couple more coats to apply.

When to sand depends on the product, the wood, and the environment. 24-48 hours usually works. More is always better than less.

I lightly sand by hand with a sanding block, using 180 or 220 grit wrapped around a block in one had. With the other hand I rub it on the sanded wood so I know when it's smooth. A very light scuff sanding will take down the dust nibs and give you a smooth surface. On a microscopic level, you're sanding the "high" areas like dust bunnies and bubbles, and leaving the low areas alone. Your surface is getting flatter.

The light sanding will produce a very fine, talc-like dust. If the sandpaper gums up at all, you're too early, Let the urethane cure for a longer amount of time.

Finished with that first pot of coffee?

After sanding, wipe down the surface, then follow with a tack cloth if you have one. Get the surface squeeky clean.

Second coat goes on like the first, but this time, since the board is already sealed, the second coat will go on a bit smooooother.

Cure.

Sand.

Third coat? Smooooooooooooth. Cure.

If the third coat is your final coat, I don't sand it with sand paper, I use 0000 steel wool.

The wool will smooth any flaws in the final coat and knock the sheen down bit. Gloss to semi, semi to matte. Matte, to...double matte no fat latte?

Gloss urethane is harder than matte. So if you wanted, you could do the first two coats in gloss, the final in matte. Your choice. But for a countertop matte should be fine.

I can guarantee you others may have differing opinions, as there are a myriad ways to get a nice finish on teak.

For a bath countertop or tub surround, this is the route I go, and I've yet to have a problem.

In the other threads you may have seen references to teak kitchen countertops that I've done. In the kitchen I use nothing other than a mineral oil finish. It's easily renewed, and only needs to be done so every few months. Takes five to ten minutes.

Oh, and with any wood surface, what you do to one surface you need to do to the surfaces. Urethane the top? Make sure you urethane the bottom and sides as well. That will stabilize the wood and help prevent it from warping as the house's interior humidity changes throughout the year.

And if I didn't write this already, spar urethane is available at Home Depot.

Ready for an espresso?

Be fully caffeinated,
Mongo

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clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 10:36 am

RE: Gaggenau 36-inch gas cooktop: any nay-sayers (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jamesk on 02.02.2006 at 02:15 pm in Appliances Forum

I've been very pleased with my Gaggenau 36" cooktop. Very even heat across the bottom of pans, and very easy to clean. The brass burners do eventually darken somewhat with use, but they still look good. I give mine an occasional scrub with a Scotchbrite pad (no need to worry about scratching, they're not shiny), and they look almost new again.

Simmering capabilities are very good. All four outer burners have the same low simmer capability even though two of the four burners are larger and rated for higher maximum btu's. When simmering, only the very center of the burner has a flame.

You should also be aware that this cooktop is available in two models. One has a brushed aluminum control panel, the other has an all stainless steel control panel. I think the aluminum panel looks better (at least initially), but I went with the all stainless model. I was worried that the aluminum panel would eventually begin to look dingy, as aluminum often does, so decided to forego it. I think I made the right choice.

The Gaggenau ovens are also available with aluminum trim or all stainless steel. You can see a photo of my cooktop in my kitchen album by following the link below.

Hope this helps.

James

Here is a link that might be useful: James' Kitchen

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clipped on: 10.13.2006 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2006 at 04:16 pm