Clippings by caiquemom

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RE: Kohler Stage sink faucet location (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: rjr220 on 05.15.2010 at 08:57 pm in Kitchens Forum


I decided that I needed space for a garbage can more than the accessories rack. I also wanted a drawer for my prep knives. Also, the accessories rack only holds the plastic trays and the prep bowls (which are porcelain). They don't hold the mother of all cutting boards -- I knew I would need a special place for that baby. I asked my cabinet maker to configure the sink cab to have a drawer and garbage pull. This is what it looks like from the outside.


This is with the drawer and doors open. To store the wood cutting board and large tray, I bought this upright divider from BBB and put it under the sink. I'll store the small tray and prep bowls in a nearby upper cab.


There are metal bracket holders on the end of the sink to hold the accessory tray. They cut out the drawer back to fit under the shallow part of the sink and around the brackets - that side of the drawer is also about 3/4 inch shorter than the other to allow for the shallow part of the sink. This picture shows that part.


Hope I didn't bore you with my photos, but I'm glad I did this modification. It just seemed to make sense to have the garbage close to my prep area, and in my kitchen, that was where I was planning to put it before I discovered the Stages sink.

Keep us updated!


clipped on: 08.31.2011 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 08.31.2011 at 11:47 am

RE: Show me your counter overhang for seating (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: brickton on 06.17.2011 at 03:03 pm in Kitchens Forum


We are planning to do an apron for our countertop overhang, but we're a ways away. Here are a couple images of with and without that might help you visually compare. Two are from Houzz, two are Pinterest finds.

Classic Hyannisport Residence Kitchen traditional kitchen

With my favorite apron style:
an eclectic house eclectic kitchen

Without (Actually does have it on the side):



clipped on: 07.09.2011 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 07.09.2011 at 09:51 am

RE: Shower head - To rain shower or not? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jacobse on 11.13.2010 at 10:17 am in Bathrooms Forum

caiquemom, the Jaclo grab bar/slider I've mentioned in previous posts is in the other bathroom, our gust bath, we re-did this summer. We put a matching Jaclo showerhead in that shower/tub. That room was done with oil-rubbed bronze fixtures, and with the significant variations in color of that type of finish, we wanted to match the showerhead and the bar.

In our master bath, we have the Hansgrohe Hansgrohe Raindance S 150 showerhead on a Hansgrohe slider: the Unica S wallbar

Since there's no climbing in our out, or sitting/standing, we didn't feel we needed a heavier-duty grab bar for the shower. (I think if I was slipping and grabbed it for support, it would be adequate, but it's definitely not a heavyweight bar intended for someone to pull themselves up like the Jaclo.)

-- Eric


clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 11:14 am

RE: can i run my Hansgrohe 10' showerhead and handheld at same ti (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jacobse on 11.14.2010 at 09:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Mayhem69, the Thermobalance II will let you run one head (turn the valve to the left) or the other (turn to the right), but not both at the same time. You can see the markings on this picture, one of the trims for the Thermobalance II:

What you want is the Thermobalance III. This is designed to be able to run three different shower heads, but it can be used for two - and allows you to run either showerhead individually or both at the same time.This is exactly what we did in our next shower with a Hansgrohe (Axor) 10" rainshower and handheld.

In a two-device configuration, turning the handle to the left will run one showerhead (A). Turning it part way to the right will run the other showerhead (B). Keep turning further to the right, and both showerheads (A+B) will operate. Turn all the way to the right, and you'll be back to just one showerhead (A) running. Here's a picture of one of the Thermobalance III trims:

You can see the marking for "I" on the left, "II" and "III" on the right (well, the "III" is obscured) -- but with only two showerheads, "I" and "III" are the same one.

Note that in order to do this, your plumber has to follow Hansgrohe's set-up instructions. One of the valvle outlets has to be connected to another, or the valve won't work right. It's clear in the instructions, but some plumbers may not stop to read them, and you shower won't work right. I suggest printing the page in the instructions and going over it with your plumber. Here's a link to the installation manual for the Thermobalance III; go to page 5 to read about using it in a two-fixture system.

We're very happy with this set-up!

Service stops are screws on the water input connectors of the valve which serve as water shut-offs. It can be handy for the rare service on the valve, such as replacing the cartridge if it develops a drip later in life. But in your configuration (two water features), it is very important to have service stops, because the water to the valve must be shut off after rough in until the cartridge is installed with the trim after the tile work is complete. Without the water cut off from the valve with two of the valve outlets connected together, hot and cold water in your house can mix together. This is not mentioned in the Hansgrohe instructions; I learned this when talking to Hansgrohe's support people to ask about service stops!

-- Eric


clipped on: 06.27.2011 at 04:24 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 11:13 am

RE: Hansgrohe thermobalance problems (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jacobse on 10.23.2010 at 01:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Janwad, I recently had a Hansgrohe Thermobalance III installed, and we're quite happy with it. I was also surprised when the cover plate seemed a little loose, and my contractor told me it was velcroed in place. I'd guess Hansgrohe has determined that screws and screw holes aren't ideal for wet locations because they can drip or get frozen or stripped preventing access years down the road, so they use velcro. It's not as if this is some cheap plastic product where they're trying to cut corners to save a buck; it's clearly an intentional design decision. No screw on or snap-in plate is going to be waterproof, either. (And I'd say that any plumber who says "I told you so" about your choice of Hansgrohe over Moen is simply a plumber who is used to dealing with Moen and other typical consumer-level products rather than higher-end products.)

I told my contractor that the thing I didn't like is that the plate seemed a little loose, and he agreed to run a thin bead of silicone around the inside of the top of the plate, which holds it securely in place, but leaves the bottom open for water -- which inevitably gets behind the plate -- to escape. It now feels completely solid and works fine. The slight amount of silicone is all-but-invisible unless you stick your eye right up to it -- I obsess over esthetic details, and I don't see it at all when I'm in the shower. I'm sorry you don't like the Hansgrohe, because I really like mine -- and would choose it 1,000 times out of 1,000 over our old Moen! -- but I wouldn't let the velcro which is hidden completely out of sight bother you as long as it works. Consider some silicone instead of caulk.

-- Eric


clipped on: 06.27.2011 at 04:25 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 11:12 am

RE: Soapstone sink - good idea, or asking for trouble? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: florida_joshua on 06.30.2011 at 03:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not every sink is built equally. A flat bottom on a soapstone sink is poor build quality. It takes time to grind down the bottom of a sink prior to putting it together. They should be sloped from edges to center. Not just a little at the drain. Butt jointing a soapstone sink is poor quality. Not saying it won't last for a little while, but we wouldn't guarantee our sinks for life if I built them like that. Our sink joints are tongue and grooved, and at the very least on the harder varies we rabbit joint them.

The bottom of the sink will get patina on it if you have soft or hard soapstone. The softer variety will be easier to fix when you decide you would like to move, or refinish your stone. This is something people forget about. It's a product you can refinish to new 5, 10, 15, etc, years down the road. The harder the soapstone the less talc, the less like soapstone it really is. The talc in the stone makes soapstone what it is. If it were any different it wouldn't be soapstone. The patina on traditional soapstone is why people love it. It's why we love soapstone.


clipped on: 07.04.2011 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2011 at 07:42 pm

RE: Hansgrohe thermobalance problems (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gbsim on 10.23.2010 at 04:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've got a Thermobalance too and was also initially surprised at the velcro for the escutcheon. But it has been a nonissue. We used Kerdifix to fill any gaps around the pipe and so we know that everything is snugly watertight back there as far as the pipes are concerned.

As Eric said nothing is really going to be waterproof anyway for an esctucheon of that size especially considering that there are more than likely going to be grout lines going through the area.

Ours has been in two years. Also agree that I'd question a plumber who can see and feel the HG and still think it compares with the Moen. Our problem was that our plumber needed to read the directions with the Hansgrohe and didn't particularly want to.... also he decided to install without doing a flush and so we had some problems with drips until we opened it up and cleaned it out.


clipped on: 06.27.2011 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2011 at 04:26 pm

RE: Do you love your slider bar? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: staceyneil on 05.02.2011 at 01:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Yes! I have one in my master bathroom shower (in addition to a regular showerhead) and love it there. When we redid my daughters bathroom recently, I installed ONLY a handheld/slide bar in her tub/shower combo (we just plaumbed in place of a regular showerhead.) If you make sure to get a good quality slide bad with a swiveling mechanism that not only goes up and down and side to side but also pivots forward/back you can position the handheld just like a regular showerhead. PLUS you have the added benefit of being able to take it down for washing babies and pets, and positioning it low as a mini-shower for little kids. And... its great for cleaning the tub and shower. The one in my daughters bath is a Grohe RElexa and it's fabulous.


clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 01:44 pm

RE: To heat or not to heat the floor? Help me answer the questio (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: staceyneil on 05.02.2011 at 09:22 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've heard that the most common failure is the temperature sensor that tells the thermostat how hot to make the floor. To that end, we installed TWO sensors, and just left the tiny wires of the second one un-attached in the junction box. If the first one fails, we have a backup.


clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 01:41 pm

RE: To heat or not to heat the floor? Help me answer the questio (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: staceyneil on 05.02.2011 at 07:49 am in Bathrooms Forum

I agree with everyone else.... the heated floors are by far the best "bang for the buck" we added to our two bathroom renos. Are you installing it yourself or will your tilesetter do it? As noted above, mats are more expensive but cable is cheaper. It cost about $250 in materials to do our smaller bathroom, but that's DIY.

We have a programmable thermostat and the floors are warm when we get up, then they stay at room temp all day and come on again in the evening. They are on all day on weekends. They are fabulous.

Here's where I got mine:
A 50 sf mat kit (includes thermostat) is about $500, cable kit is $316.

I posted about tips and things I learned installing two of these systems here (linked below).

Here is a link that might be useful: Radiant heat: what I learned...


clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 01:41 pm

RE: To heat or not to heat the floor? Help me answer the questio (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: weedyacres on 05.01.2011 at 10:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We've remodeled our entire house and I have to say my single favorite decision we made was to heat the tile floors in the bathroom, then the kitchen, then the breakfast nook and sunroom (can you tell we got addicted?). It makes a huge difference, especially for those of us that don't wear shoes in the house. No rude awakening in the morning when your sleepy feet hit the bone-jarringly cold tile first thing.

Call it addicted. Or spoiled. But if we moved into a house with unheated tile, I'd give serious consideration to ripping out the tile and putting in new, just to install heat below it. So yeah, definitely glad we heated our floors. (Note: we didn't do it in our other 2 1/2 bathrooms, foyer, or mudroom.)

You can either buy mats or wire that you tape to the floor. We went for the more economical method of wire, and bought Warming Systems for around $4/sq foot, though I think they cost more now. Other systems are up to $10/sq ft.

Make sure you heat all the floors you'll potentially walk on (i.e., front half of the water closet, but not behind the toilet), and go the extra few inches into the toe kick, since your toes often land there.


clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 01:39 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 01:40 pm

RE: How to create ambient lighting in kitchen? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: modernhouse on 10.22.2008 at 06:55 pm in Lighting Forum

I found information on the light to ceiling distance in a catalog on cove lighting from the company named Electrix. Look at the end of the catalog. You in general want 12 to 24 inches in distance between the light and the ceiling, otherwise you will end up with a narrow hot (bright) spot on the ceiling. Note that the cove fixture from this company are very efficient in distributing light due to the built-in reflectors. You can mount these lights closer to the ceiling than lights without reflectors. You should also have a very reflective ceiling (i.e. white) to bounce light into the room.

Here is a link that might be useful: Electrix catalog


clipped on: 04.24.2011 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 04.24.2011 at 11:36 am

RE: Help! Getting conflicting input on cove lighting. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: davidtay on 07.12.2010 at 07:01 pm in Lighting Forum

You may find the above useful


clipped on: 04.24.2011 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 04.24.2011 at 11:33 am

RE: Help! Getting conflicting input on cove lighting. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pegasuslighting on 07.01.2010 at 01:24 pm in Lighting Forum

Whenever rope light (with LEDs or miniature incandescent light bulbs) is used as cove lighting it produces a VERY subtle lighting effect. It is visible but most of the room has to be dark to appreciate the effect. Rope light cannot provide some or most of the main lighting for a room period.
The xenon low voltage light strip that is supplied by us (Pegasus Lighting) or Sea Gull will work best (and we can supply either). I have seen it supply some or most of the main lighting for a family room first hand and the best part is that it can be dimmed, which would be a very nice feature for the master bedroom.
With regard to the so-called transformer hum, a very good transformer (toroidal magnetic or electronic, if possible), a good dimmer (Lutron makes excellent dimmers), a remote enclosed location, and very tight electrical connections should eliminate this problem. When working with low voltage lighting be absolutely certain that your electrician connects all of the wires in a VERY secure manner (terminal blocks are recommended over wire nuts).


clipped on: 04.24.2011 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 04.24.2011 at 11:33 am

RE: Help! Getting conflicting input on cove lighting. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: texaskitchentoo on 06.29.2010 at 10:36 pm in Lighting Forum

I installed Juno mini trac lighting which is pretty simialr in concept to the Seagull, Kitchler, and Pegasus linear lighting but uses a compact track instead of wire. I'd have to agree that for something with odd shapes the wire system would be much easier and quicker to install. I can't recall which of the linear lighting companies recently improved thier fixtures to help fix this problem. But once the fixture is installed, maybe a zip-tie can help secure it in place?

Our transformers do hummm.. very slightly. They are Juno branded, but are cheaply made transformers made in India. The QTran seem to be quiet but are pricey and hard to get if you are a consumer. It depends on where the transformer is located. I placed mine on top of the kitchen cabinets so they are not far from my ears, and when the rest of the house is silent, I can hear them. But I have to try. It is not a big deal. If the installer were going to put the transformer inside a cabinet I'd bet you would never hear it.

I think the linear lighting will put out more light and offer some illuminatin vice but a decoration. Right now I have the overcabinet and undercabint lights on in the kitchen, dimmed, and they provide more than enough light to walk through, get to the fridge, sink, dishwasher etc. Not enough to cook, but certainly more than just decorative light splash.

Make sure you get a dimmer! Meastro kicks butt.


clipped on: 04.24.2011 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 04.24.2011 at 11:32 am

RE: Help! Getting conflicting input on cove lighting. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dim4fun on 06.29.2010 at 01:08 am in Lighting Forum

Rope lighting with encased lamps is not going to be bright enough for your application. Any of the style of linear cable lighting with lamp holders that must pierce the cable can have problems with poor connections. Cables with the lamp holders permanently attached have more reliable connections to the cable. It's not usually necessary to have a continuous run of cable. Any place where the spacing may become off one could likely just start a new run.

Buy a better quieter transformer like QTran which will be more efficient.


clipped on: 04.24.2011 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 04.24.2011 at 11:31 am

RE: Miele induction cooktop over drawers? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cotehele on 04.13.2011 at 12:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Interesting question in view of LWO's thread on KDs. The KD for our custom cabinet company had no clue about this. Someone on this KF had worked out the details, and I adapted it to my design. This is under a 36''flush mount Miele induction cooktop. We TKOs are just driven to find solutions to situations some KDs have never seen.



The 5'' clearance is met with a plywood bottom under the cooktop. The stone fabricator cut two holes in the bottom to push out the cooktop. The upper drawer front is higher than the drawer, so it looks balanced.

I keep silicone spatulas, tongs, chopsticks, brushes, a fork and a draining tool in the drawer.



clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 04.14.2011 at 09:14 am

RE: A Question About Niches (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: staceyneil on 04.05.2011 at 04:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I measured the products we normally use and made sure I had space for them. My daughter's bath has two: one low for bubblebath, and then this tall one for shampoos, daily shower cleaner, and a shorter bottom shelf for razor and soap (it's MUCH more filled up with junk now!)

In our master shower, we have a similar tall, skinny niche. Love them!!!


clipped on: 04.11.2011 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2011 at 05:41 pm

What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !

posted by: florida_joshua on 10.24.2007 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I did a little test to answer the question.

The products:

Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
Bee's Oil
Regular Mineral Oil
Mystery Oil

First a brief discription (my opinion)

Clapham's: It is a paste, inbetween a wax and a liquid. Goes on easy and feels amazing after you put it on. On the touch catagory it is the best of the bunch.

Bee's Oil: It is a wax. A little harder to get on but if you heat it up it would be easier. Has stay power. This is at the top when it comes to keeping the patina on the stone.

Regular Mineral Oil: Needs no discription. It's easy to apply. Would keep a bottle around for those lazy days. Feels oily compared to the wax or paste. That feel goes away quickly though (whithin a hour or two if you wipe it down with a rag).

Mystery Oil: It is a liquid similar to the mineral oil. Not so crazy about the warning lable. Feels a little bit more oily than the mineral oil at first. Seems to react similar to the mineral oil. In my opinion I would rather use the mineral oil just because of convienience considering the warning about it being combustable.

The proof:

This is unoiled stone.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is the stone just after application
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is a picture of the sheen each gives off
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

A day after the first oiling
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I then oiled it twice more over the next 2 days and waited 4 days to see what we had. Here it is.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

The mystery oil evaporated the quickest, then the mineral oil, contiuing on to the clapham's, and finally the Bee's oil.

I could continue the process but I do believe that you will continue to see the same results. Over time I think you wouold spend less time applying with the wax products but I would keep the mineral oil around for quick touchups or lazy days.

This test also gives people a good idea of how soapstone will react when it is installed in their home. This process of oiling and or waxing lessens with time. Each variety of soapstone can react differently as well. This means some stone evaporates the oil or wax products off quicker and or slower. Some people leave it unoiled some oil it often. Some like it inbetween and only oil it sometimes. . . So it really is up to the owner to choose how the stone fits your lifestyle. I still have not figured out how describe to someone who does not know about soapstone in one or two paragraphs. I know it sounds cheesy but I feel it's an experience. If you don't touch it, feel it, live with it, you'll never really understand it.


clipped on: 04.11.2011 at 05:34 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2011 at 05:34 pm

Long-distance venting

posted by: ReginaLiz on 02.22.2011 at 06:00 pm in Appliances Forum

My current microhood is 18 years old. No info on cfm but it's so weak that steam from a boiling pot doesn't budge when I turn the fan on high! To make it worse, it just vents itself back into the kitchen. Ugh.

I know we need to vent to the outside. I'm wondering how *far* a 300-600 cfm hood or microhood can vent. It would have to go up 5 or 5-1/2' to our 10' ceiling then into the attic for another 8-10' to the roof. Could it really vent the odors and especially the grease that far?


clipped on: 02.23.2011 at 08:41 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2011 at 08:41 pm

RE: How deep are your drawers? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plllog on 12.18.2010 at 12:07 am in Kitchens Forum

I measured all my stuff. My tall canisters, stockpot and some other things are 11" tall, so my bottom drawer has 11" interior (13" exterior), my next size canisters are almost 9" and a lot of my pots are 8", so my next drawer is 9" (11" exterior). That left 4" interior (6" exterior) for the utensils. This worked well enough that I did the entire perimeter in those heights, for the looks. These heights work fine as well for my bakeware, containers, tea towels and flatware. For the island, I just followed the line of my fridge drawers, which are a little deeper on the bottom, but more or less have two evenish drawers on one side (mixing bowls and colanders) and four evenish drawers on the other (knives, wraps, gadgets, tools).

I think fitting the staples (flour, sugar, etc.) in my corner drawers was the most specific thing I wanted. I could have dislocated the stockpot.

Your measuring tape is your friend! Good ol' Stanley. :)


clipped on: 12.18.2010 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2010 at 07:24 pm

RE: Calling all soapstone owners in the Boston area (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: kmb123 on 12.02.2010 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I wholeheartedly recommend Dave Brushett and his company, Central New England Soapstone. He fixed our soapstone countertops after an inept fabricator (granite people) bungled it. Dave made the seams and dings invisible. He wrote and called right back, and is all-around a nice, good person who takes great pride in his work.


clipped on: 12.03.2010 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 12.03.2010 at 09:14 am

RE: does a towel-warmer warm the room? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jacobse on 11.30.2010 at 08:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

Addendum: based on yesterday's query, this morning I actually paid attention to towel drying. ;)

And, yes, a damp towel placed on the Warmly Yours towel warmer was pretty much completely dry when I checked it a little over an hour later. (Your milage may vary depending on the thickness of the towel or towels and how you fold them; we put two towels, tri-folded, side by side.) Hope that helps!

-- Eric


clipped on: 12.01.2010 at 11:13 am    last updated on: 12.01.2010 at 11:13 am

RE: Do I really need a steam shower? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: mongoct on 11.21.2010 at 12:11 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks. FWIW, I think Kerdi is pretty easy to install. Plumbing penetrations are as easy as you want to make them.

You can DIY plumbing penetrations with a punched hole in the membrane and a schmere of Kerdi Fix, but in a steam shower for the steam outlet I do recommend the "Kerdi Seal" product. It'll snug up around the pipe, no additional sealant is required. And it's good for contact with the high-temperature steam outlet.

Grout and steam, nothing out of the ordinary there. I've never had a problem with portland cement based grouts.

I do recommend stepping away from natural stones for steam showers. Especially marble. Moisture absorption, discoloration of marble, etc. There are some very nice porcelains that mimic the natural stone look that would be a wiser choice for a steam shower. My simple recommendation there. Not gospel.


clipped on: 11.21.2010 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2010 at 06:17 pm

RE: Do I really need a steam shower? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mongoct on 11.20.2010 at 12:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've never had a callback on a steam generator. I've installed several different makes over the years; Thermasol, Mr. Steam, Kohler, maybe one other.

Look for one that self-cleans, other than that they are pretty much service-free.

If the end user has no opinion, I'll usually recommend Thermasol geneators, but you really won't be going wrong by choosing one of the others. Some folk will choose a trim/controller package they like and go with that line.

Just makes sure you size the unit appropriately. In a nutshell, you take the volume of the room and multiply that by factors for wall materials, wall insulation, exterior walls, etc. Ceramic tile might be a 1.25 factor, porcelain 1.50, natural stone times 2.0, for example. Just follow the manufacturer's sizing instructions. Too many people just use the room volume without the multipliers and end up with an undersized unit.


clipped on: 11.21.2010 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2010 at 06:17 pm

RE: pony wall (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 04.17.2010 at 06:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If framed with 2x4s, the framing itself will be 3-1/2" wide. Half-inch drywall on each side of the framing will balloon it to 4-1/2" wide. Then if you add baseboard...add that thickness to each side.

The thing is that 5" wide wall is usually all wasted space.

Several times I'll widen the pony wall into a 10-12" wide cabinet for added storage.


clipped on: 11.14.2010 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 11.14.2010 at 10:19 am

RE: Painted wall treatment for Coastal Kitchen (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: amylucey on 10.18.2010 at 03:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

montanapacnw: Thanks for your comments! I haven't checked this post in a while, so thanks for redirecting me...

Okay. The paint color. (You're so right! Greys are HARD and soooo different.) We went with Revere Pewter for our wall color in the kitchen and it looks gorgeous with the painted wall. (Just an FYI).

As far as the grey I used. I have the paint can here (my contractor handed me a paint can he had in his shop that was grey and I went with it, so I can't say I picked it myself).

Here's the details on the can:

Sherman Williams
7667 Zircon

BAC Colorant: 02 32 64 128
B1-Black: - 13 1 -
R2- Maroon: - - 1 1
Y3- Deep Gold: - 3 - 1

(Eggshell interior latex)

Hope this helps. Its actually a bluish/grey at glance. The wood underneath plays a part. Ours was light brown and dark brown in various spots.

Hint: To make it look authentic wipe some of the boards harder than others - this way it looks like some bleached out a little more than others.

Let me know how it goes. It's really so easy...
Good luck!


clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am

RE: Painted wall treatment for Coastal Kitchen (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: amylucey on 08.22.2010 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Awh shucks. Thanks for the comments. I was really nervous about actually putting the brush to the boards, so I did a few samples before.

I had a long chat with the fella at Ben Moore, who suggested I prime then paint straight up or try a deck stain. I did both and didn't like either. Neither retained any on the beauty of the pine, which was what we have wanted from the start. So, I showed my GC and he gave me some grey latex paint he had and I got to playing with different treatments.

Right outta the gate I mixed some cool water in with the paint (ratio was probably 1/3 water to the paint. Stirred it up with a wooden mixing stick, dipped the brush in, and swiped it over the whole board. Then I quickly took a rag and wiped the whole board down. It's not a fussy process in the least - love that - and you really have a lot of control over how much paint you want or don't want.

I tried to vary the boards in depth. You can see from the picture that some boards have more or less of the paint. Tried to make it look realistic to how the sun may bleach it. I wanted that grey/blue/creamish look. (I tried white paint with water, but didn't like it as much as the grey paint).

When standing in front of it, it truly looks like it's been sun bleached and there for years. I'm so tickled. Now all I need is the sand and salt air! :)

I encourage you all to try it. On a skill level, I rate it EASY.

I'll post some pics when all the other goodies arrive and the kitchen is complete. J'adore Garden Web!

Here's the winning combo"


clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am

Painted wall treatment for Coastal Kitchen

posted by: amylucey on 08.22.2010 at 08:21 am in Kitchens Forum

Spent yesterday white/grey washing the back wall we left exposed with the original pine boards when the house was first built.

The white painted cabinets come in tomorrow and templating for honed carrara marble on Thursday. It's really taking shape. The tile floor goes in this week too! Whoo hoo. Building a kitchen is so much fun.

Now back to choosing hardware. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Weathered wood


clipped on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 11.04.2010 at 09:58 am

RE: What to use for above cabinet lighting in a kitchen? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: texaskitchentoo on 10.10.2010 at 02:10 am in Lighting Forum

We did this in our kitchen. But we have 10' ceilings which gives about 2 feet of lighted space above them and several feet of the ceiling. The lights are Juno mini track lighting with 10w frosted Xenon bulbs. Same as we used under the cabinets. I should mention in this picture that I just replaced the sheetrock on the backsplash and it is unpainted so it looks whiter than the top. I have since painted and the colors are matching. They are all on maestro dimmers (make sure you get the one appropriate for your transformer type). Here is a pic but the pic doesn't do it justice. We really like the effect. At night it is sufficient to get in the kitchen and grab something out of the fridge etc. It also lights up the area so there is not a black hole in the kitchen. At some point when LED fixtures are cheaper we can just swap out the lamps.

From GW Album


clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 01:44 pm

RE: What to use for above cabinet lighting in a kitchen? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: susanelewis on 10.06.2010 at 01:02 pm in Lighting Forum

We built 14 years ago so there might be a better solution, but for uplighting we are very pleased with our flourescent fixtures that are hardwired to a separate switch in our kitchen. You don't see the fixture and you want a more general light, so you really don't need anything fancy. We also have a 9' kitchen. We have staggered cabinets with 6 taller uppers and 5 standard height cabinets. We only put them in the standard height cabinets.

One thing I do wish we had done, however, was to install outlets above the cabinets IN ADDITION to the above cabinet lighting. I decorate above my cabinets for the holidays and LOVE to plug in lighted decorations up there that light up the evening kitchen.

So do both! Do you have a picture of your kitchen layout?


clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 01:44 pm

RE: logistics - prep zone vs. clean-up zone (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: malhgold on 08.22.2010 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I actually put a larger sink(30") in my island for my prep zone than in my clean up zone(24"). My prep sink is diagonal from my range, and I prep on the island and hand wash all my pots, pans, cookie sheets, bowls, etc. in the prep sink. For the most part, the clean up sink is for items that go in the DW. My pull out trash is to the left of my clean up sink, so I can use that when I'm prepping at the island. I also put a small trash under the prep sink, but don't like to put degradable items in there as it doesn't get emptied as often as the pull out. I don't have any garbage disposals, so I can't comment on that. My set up has been working very well for us. Plus, someone can be cleaning pots while someone else is doing dishes. All the clean up isn't left to one person.



clipped on: 10.15.2010 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 10.15.2010 at 09:39 am

RE: Washer/Dryer Platform (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: crazyhouse6 on 06.22.2010 at 01:26 pm in Building a Home Forum

We had our cabinet maker build our shelving. I wanted storage for sorted dirty clothes baskets. I love the set-up, but in hindsight would make them deeper to allow more room for the overflow basket below the washer.

I have 4 kids and LOTS of laundry, so I also wanted room for clean clothes baskets. (Pictures taken BEFORE we moved in. Wish it looked like this now.)


clipped on: 10.11.2010 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2010 at 02:51 pm

RE: Waterlox smell (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vampiressrn on 10.09.2010 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Some products are more noxious than others and avoiding exposure to the fumes is very important. We also all have different reactions and tolerance to the fumes. If your body is telling you that the fumes are not agreeing with you, then you should do your best to avoid them. The flow of air is important in helping these kind of products cure. The instructions indicate a rather long curing time for Waterlox.

Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox Drying Instructions


clipped on: 10.09.2010 at 02:08 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2010 at 02:08 pm

RE: Waterlox smell (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.09.2010 at 11:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Ah that is what happened I bet. It says to let it dry all the way, especially the first coat which takes the very longest. Then make sure the following coats are VERY thin. I bet that is why the smell only lasted hours for me.

I am so sorry this has happened to you. I know when I was doing my kitchen 4 1/2 yrs ago there were lots of threads going around about the Waterlox and we all talked about it. I am sorry that the threads were not available to you as there was a ton of info...this particular point was made quite frequently. Hopefully others who use the product will read carefully and also ask here if they need more info. c


clipped on: 10.09.2010 at 02:08 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2010 at 02:08 pm

RE: beadboard (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: karenforroses on 03.05.2008 at 09:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We used the Georgia Pacific Ply-Bead Panels in our kitchen and bathroom. They are very sturdy (much heavier than the cheap beadboard paneling we saw in a number of places, yet in convenient 4 x 8 panels, and not as costly as the individual tongue & groove wood. They can even be used on porches and are more moisture resistant than many options. We love ours!

Wall sconces


clipped on: 09.13.2010 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2010 at 12:27 pm

RE: My new favorite SS (and granite, and glass) cleaner! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cat_mom on 09.11.2010 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

It seemed a 50-50 ratio of alcohol to water was the popular proportion used by folks on GW. I've seen varying am'ts during my online search for the correct proportions, so I don't think it's carved in stone.

I started by using ~50-50 with the lavendar essential oil added (it does not seem to cause streaking, BTW). Lavendar oil has anti-bacterial properties, so in addition to smelling nice, it is beneficial as a germ fighting agent.

I spoke with a Dr. at the EPA re: the correct proportions to use in order to disinfect bathroom/kitchen surfaces. He told me that 10% alcohol to 90% water would do the job (I could adjust down a little if adding the lavendar oil). I thought the mixture with the reduced am't of alcohol to water evaporated slower (on my mirrors for example), and maybe looked a little streakier, so I bumped the alcohol am't back up. I probably use anywhere from 30-50% alcohol.



clipped on: 09.13.2010 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2010 at 12:19 pm

RE: My new favorite SS (and granite, and glass) cleaner! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: owls4me on 09.11.2010 at 11:44 am in Kitchens Forum

In researching a ratio I found all kinds of 'right' answers. Here's just one suggestion. Most use a drop or 2 of dish soap too.

Also, I know lots of people love microfiber but I found cloth diapers work well for cleaning. The birds eye cotton ones can be found at Target.

Here is a link that might be useful: ratio of water/alcohol


clipped on: 09.13.2010 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2010 at 12:18 pm

Kerdi Shower Part Deux

posted by: mongoct on 12.17.2009 at 12:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's Part Deux. The original Kerdi Shower thread lost virtually all of the photo links when the forum they were on changed their software and dumped the links. That forum's administrator doesn't know if they're recoverable, so I did a little editing and here's Part Deux. I may ask Gardenweb to delete the original thread.

This thread is to show a few techniques for working with Kerdi membrane.

Shower is a walk-in, about 5' by 7'. Door is at a 45 degree angle in one of the corners.

Walk in to the shower and on the short wall to the immediate right are two supply valves, the lower one supplies the wall mounted handheld, the upper supplies an overhead 12" rainshower head.

Moving counterclockwise from that wall, the long wall to the left of the valve wall is an exterior wall and will get nothing but tile.

To the left of that long exterior wall is the shower's short back wall, it gets a 2-shelf niche. The niche is about 36" wide and 30" tall. The lower niche space is 15" high, the shelf itself is 4" thick, the upper niche space is 11" high.

To the left of the short niche wall is another long wall, this wall has the wall-mounted hand-held. If I recall, the sliding bar is 40" tall.

In the ceiling is a 12" rain shower head. Also four can lights for illimination and a fan for ventilation. Ceiling will be tiled.

The wall construction? Kerdi is a vapor barrier, so no barrier is needed on these walls. Tile backer? With Kerdi you can use drywall. I prefer cement board on the walls. Wonderboard or Durock. I used Wonderboard on these walls. The ceiling and niche is done in Hardie, which is a fiber-cement board. Hardie is less brittle, so for me it's easier to cut into narrow strips to trim out the niche, and not as prone to snapping when installing full sheets overhead. I work solo 95% of the time, so it's not uncommon to hold the sheet up with one hand and have the screw gun in the other.

ABOVE: Valve wall

ABOVE: Niche wall, and on the left you can see the stub out for the hand held

ABOVE: Shows the Wonderboard walls and the Hardie ceiling.

ABOVE: With Kerdi, you don't have to mesh tape and thinset the seams. You can fill the seams with thinset as you hang the Kerdi on the walls. No need for tape as the Kerdi will bridge the joint for you. Just make sure your walls are smooth. If you have any thinset blots or chunks of cement that mushroomed when you drove a screw, knock them down so the walls are smooth. Here I'm striking a pose with a carborundum stone.

ABOVE: Setting a plumb line to hang the first sheet. Just like hanging wall paper. I hold the first sheet about an inch from the inside corner. Sheet is about 39-1/2" wide. I want the thinset to extend about 1" past the edge of the sheet. So I drop a plumb line about 41-1/2" or so from the inside corner, and mark the line vertically every foot or so with a tick mark using a sharpie.

ABOVE: Thinset. This is a little thicker than I want. I want it stiff enough so I can flat trowel it on the wall without it dripping all over or running down the wall, as well as it being able to hold a ridge after it's combed out. Not too stiff, though as you don't want it skinning over before you hang the sheet.


clipped on: 09.10.2010 at 06:44 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2010 at 06:44 pm

grout and caulk questions

posted by: lor53 on 09.17.2008 at 02:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My new shower has white ceramic tile walls and the floor is a white marble basketweave, with Laticrete Silver Shadow unsanded grout. The installer used the same grout where the tile wall meets the marble floor, but it began coming out in chunks within weeks after we started using the shower. In places where it didn't come out, the grout had separated either from the floor or from the wall, leaving a horizontal crack.
I asked the tile guy to remove the remaining grout and caulk that joint, but he left the grout and caulked over everything (using a color that didn't match the floor grout) and the caulk line is really fat and obvious and ugly. Plus, this was done only five weeks ago, and now I notice the caulk is discolored in a lot of places suggesting mold/mildew and in some places it's peeling away from the wall. I'd like to be able to tell the contractor exactly what needs to be done and exactly what products to use so we get this squared away once and for all, and I'm hoping you can help.

Also, there's one outside corner in the shower that's finished with a regular tile on one wall butting into a bullnose tile on the other. Starting about eight inches from the floor and going up about another two feet, the grout in that joint has cracked--in some places it has separated from the bullnose tile and in others it's separated from the regular tile. The rest of the way up to the ceiling it's fine. The grout in the bottom 8 inches of tile isn't cracked but it's very lumpy and uneven--not a smooth line. I figure the two feet of cracked grout has to come out and be replaced--is there anything special to keep in mind here? Does the lumpy grout need to be redone if it isn't cracked?

Thanks for any advice!


clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 10:40 am