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My blue backsplash sneak peek...marcolo this one's for you ;)

posted by: coastal_modern_love on 11.18.2011 at 01:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, I have to be honest- this design is going over the cooktop as a 24x24 piece and not the entire backsplash. The rest is... OK marcolo look away now- Carrara ahem (ahem) subway. But I think the design and color (which I customized) make up for the "lighness" of the rest of the space. And might I add the cooktop wall is the first thing you see as you enter the house which is by the water, hence the aquatic theme, in addition to my love of all things coastal ;) It is hand blown glass so there is a sheen to it, but the high gloss you see in the pic is the plastic wrapping.

And of course, I will get some shots of the finished product!



clipped on: 11.18.2011 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2011 at 04:29 pm

RE: Way cool Lee Valley organizers: way too much? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: lowspark on 09.01.2011 at 09:55 am in Kitchens Forum

lowspark--OT, but can you tell me what your counters are? They're lovely. Thanks!
Sorry I'm just now answering this! But thank you!! They are Paradiso granite. I love them!

A question for those of you who constructed a sleeve of wood around the perimeter of the box for the Lee Valley channels to attach to -- is that sleeve made of the same 1/4" lathe material? How did you make it come together, just glue it at the ends?

It doesn't need to be held together. Everything just slips into the drawer and interconnects and fits. It's just a frame made from the wood strips. The LV brackets are pounded into those strips just the same as they are pounded into the divider strips in the middle of the drawer.

As long as you measure and cut everything to fit, you don't need glue or any other kind of attachment.

Did you make it or did your cabinet guy. Does this have a bottom or only the sides?
I made it all. And I'm generally NOT handy. No bottom, just sides.

So, what I did was put all my utensils in the drawer as I wanted them to be laid out. Then I measured everything and drew myself a picture. Measure the inside perimiter of the drawer. Measure how long each divider should be. Then I diagram this on paper, noting the length of each divider and the location of each bracket on the diagram.

Note when measuring: keep in mind that the bracket itself has some thickness. So if you are going to nail a bracket into one strip of wood and the opposite strip, and slip the third strip into those brackets, if the strips of wood are say, 5" apart, your connecting strip is not going to be 5". It'll be something more like 5-7/8". I don't remember exactly. So do an experiment with your first cut before doing all the permanent cuts. Measure, cut, then see how far apart the border strips are compared to how long the connecting strip is. That'll tell you how much shorter to make the strips than the actual width.

Then I count up what to cut. Make a list: 2 14", 2 12", 6 5.5", etc. Like that. Then I cut. Then I sand. Then I lay all the strips in the drawer just to make sure they were cut right. It's sort of a manual process: hold this strip here and this strip there and make sure the third strip fits where it's supposed to. It's a confirmation I cut everything right before going on to the next step. Then I stain & lacqueur. Staining and lacqueuring is extra and optional but I wanted to give it all a finished look.

Then I go back to my diagram and see where each bracket needs to be on each piece of wood and measure and mark the wood with pencil. Then I pound in each bracket using a rubber mallet.

Then I begin placing each strip of wood in the drawer. Start with the frame which, if you measured and cut correctly, will slip right into the drawer, meeting at the corners. Then the strips which connect to the frame go in by just slipping them into the divider channels. Then the strips that go into those strips, etc. Till all the strips of wood are in, all the brackets are occupied.

So for me, the process takes a couple of hours of work on the first day to measure, cut and sand. Then I lay out all the strips and do the staining and lacqueuring which spans over 4 days as I do side one, let it dry, then do the flip side each for stain and lacqueur. Once everything is dry on the fifth day, I put it together inside the drawer as described above.

Like I said, I'm not generally handy. This was somewhat labor intensive by MY standards but not really hard. The hardest part was measuring and remeasuring to make sure everything was cut right. I used a jigsaw to cut the wood strips because they are thin and don't need a heavy duty saw.

I did them over time. For each drawer, I set aside a day of a weekend for the main work then did the wet stuff over the week and installed on the following weekend. Took me about two months before all the drawers were done since I didn't do them all at the same time or even on consecutive weekends.

I will say that I'm thrilled with the results and it was worth the effort!

The whole frame lifts up and can be removed for easy cleaning
Yes, and if at some point in the future, I decide to reconfigure it, the drawer itself is intact with no holes or damage. That was important to me so the frame was a requirement. I was not going to pound a bunch of holes into these drawers I'd just gotten through shelling out thousands of dollars for! LOL


lee valley instructions
clipped on: 11.17.2011 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2011 at 01:50 pm

RE: Please HELP me ! What type of Backsplash would you choose? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: jillsee on 11.08.2011 at 05:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Could you do the mosaic tile in the backsplash area?
That's what we did (and grease stains aren't a problem.!)
I wouldn't worry about current trends, just go with what you love.
Btw...they have been using glass tiles for thousands of years, And the 81st station in Manhatten has 1930 glass tiles. It's just as tendy as any other material lol.


subway backsplash with mosaic stove and line
clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 10:23 pm

Glass Water Tile Backsplash

posted by: eth700 on 10.05.2011 at 11:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just wanted to post a picture of the backsplash...considering I've spent so much time looking others here. Thank you gardenweb for all the help. The subway tile is glass water from tile shop.

Here is a link that might be useful: backsplash


clipped on: 10.06.2011 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 10.06.2011 at 11:52 am

Way cool Lee Valley organizers: way too much?

posted by: aliris19 on 06.30.2011 at 04:20 am in Kitchens Forum

I think those Lee Valley channels for lathe to create your own customized drawer dividers looks really brilliant: Lee Valley drawer divider channels: customize your own!.

However, on second thought, why not just nail your lathe straight into the box? I know at least one person has done that.

I'm not a carpenter though I've carpented some a bit in my past. Still, I can't quite make out whether it would be hard to secure 1/4" lathe by shooting in a nail at an angle or not. Would the channels be much easier? What about if the channels, which are 2.5" are too high? As they are "plated steel" I can't imagine they'd be very easy to cut. So that's what got me to thinking about just using the lathe directly.

Anyone have any insight? People who've done either, direct-install or channel-mediated drawer dividers? Carpenters? Lee Valley CS? There are lots of impressive pictures (e.g. bob_cville?) with and without the channels (can't remember who posted recently about dh's direct-install results. Beautiful!) ;)

Let me be more explicit about my questions:

1. Are the Lee Valley channels hard to use? One poster mentioned using a fancy squashing plier and that seems intimidating. I don't want to buy a new tool, I don't want to find it very hard to get the channels to grab wood. Did yours seat easily or require a 2-ton gorilla backup team?

2. Was just securing lathe directly to the drawer box as easy as fiddling with channels?

3. What would you do if the drawer box is less than the channel's 2.5"? Direct-insatll? Let the channels ride above the box (they'll still close, e.g.)?



drawer divides with instructions way down in post
clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 12:34 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 12:36 pm

Finished Small Walnut Kitchen

posted by: constantinople on 08.03.2011 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I hesitate to post another kitchen, since it is in many ways similar to our larger kitchen, and who wants to see another walnut kitchen...but here it goes.

I took pictures at different times of the day with different cameras.

I have included a picture of the Great Room for context.

Cabinetry - custom built / solid walnut, natural finish
Cabinetry Pulls - Amerock Bar Pull; Finish: oil rubbed bronze

Countertops / Backsplash:
Kitchen / Island Counters - granite: White Spring
Backsplash - Rain Forest Brown 2x2 mosaic

Plumbing Fixtures:
Main Sink - Ticor S6513; mount: undermount
Main / Island Faucet - Grohe Ladylux
Pot Filler - Chicago Faucets 515

Refrigerator - KitchenAide KFIS25XV SS
Dishwasher - Bosch SHX45P05UC SS
Microwave - Sharp KB-6525PS, undercounter mount
Cooktop - GE Induction PHP900 black
Ovens - Capital Maestro 30" Single Wall Oven
Hood - Ancona Advanta Pro II 30"

Flooring - Yellow Birch; finish: Bona Traffic semi gloss

Recessed - Halo H47ICAT; trim: 498W painted w/ ceiling color; bulb: PAR38 40 deg.
Under / Over Cabinet - Inspired LED Ultra Bright strips for under / Super Bright for over

Windows - Anderson 400

Walls - BM Aura: Golden Tan 2152:40, BM Aura: Raisin Torte 2083-10
Ceiling - BM Aura: Golden Straw 2152:50





















last photo has fireplace.

island has slightly curved seating area

clipped on: 08.03.2011 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2011 at 08:20 pm

RE: For the plant lovers - living wall in my DR (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: sochi on 07.14.2011 at 03:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks everyone, I'm glad to you like. I must confess that I absolutely adore it and it has taken my focus away from getting my kitchen island made and the backsplash up, but whatever.

Clumbsycook - the floors are 130 year old reclaimed birch, brought up from the bottom of a nearby river.

Okay, the details on the wall:

I've been researching living walls on-line and at the library for about 2 years. After some research and visits to a few local living walls, I figured out which "type" of living wall I felt was best for the house. Essentially I opted for a "Patrick Blanc" style living wall - essentially the plants grow in a felt medium with little, if any, soil. Patrick Blanc is from France, and he is considered the "father" of living walls/green walls/vertical gardens. Here is a link to Patrick Blanc's website:

Here is a link to an outdoor Patrick Blanc style garden in San Diego - this website is a great resource and has dozens of great pictures of living wall eye candy:

I determined that it was possible to build a Patrick Blanc style living wall on my own. A guy named Matt in New York has a fantastic and unbelievably informative blog on how to build your own Blanc style living wall. Here is a link to his blog: He built a stunning living wall in his NY apartment.

But I was a little nervous to make one myself, I admit. Plus, I have a crazy busy job, two kids under 6 and an on-going home renovation, so I ran out of time. Earlier this year I found a company in San Francisco that builds pre-made Patrick Blanc style living walls, the company is called Plants on Walls. I decided to save my pennies and buy a 31" x 82" recirculating living wall from them. I am still determined to make a living wall on my own, and I think I will in my master bathroom that is due for renovation over the year or so. The living wall "kit" from Plants on Walls contains the galvanized steel frame, water-proof back lining, the reservoir, pump, tubing and the felt pockets that the plants grow in/into. I bought the plants here and planned out the "planting design." I'm very happy with the Plants on Wall product, and they were very responsive to my questions. That said, they aren't cheap (my kit was $1,300), and I'm determined to build my own living wall next (the master bathroom project). Here is the link to the Plants on Wall site:

I do keep a small carpet under the reservoir, it catches the odd drops of water off the ends of the leaves. I do mist the plants whenever I think of it, so the mat/carpet takes care of that. If you could put one up in a room with tile floors that would be ideal I guess.

It does add humidity to the room, but not much and we welcome it in winter (we have to use a furnace here in the winter and the air gets dry). This size living wall isn't big enough to create serious humidity issues I think - and we do live in an area with hot, humid summers - and I hate A/C. No smells or mold - that is the point of the felt growing medium, the felt dries totally between watering. That said, my living wall is also in a relatively large, open room, so there is lots of air circulation.

You of course need adequate lighting for a living wall - this often determines where you build it. I didn't want to build it anywhere that would require artificial light.

Let me know if you have any other questions!


clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 07:54 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 07:54 pm

confused about kitchen cabinet grades / price levels

posted by: SeeBuyFly on 04.29.2011 at 02:59 am in Kitchens Forum

I found many posts here asking about manufacturer A, manufacturer B, or to compare manufacturer A vs B, but I am having trouble putting it all together.

I'd like to find cabinets better than those at Home Depot, but not ultra-expensive custom cabinets. Getting prices is confusing because no one gives quotes for 10 different brands, and if they do give comparison quotes you don't know if they are quoting the best prices for the brand they don't want to install. Plus there are so many variables in a full quote that it is difficult to comparison-shop.

I'd like to identify cabinets roughly in our price range. Is there a list of brands ordered by price (ideally, ballpark $/ft) or by quality level? If not, is it reasonable to ask for such a list here? My apologies in advance if the list exists and I didn't find it.


clipped on: 06.08.2011 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2011 at 06:49 pm

RE: What kind of rug do you have in front of your sink? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jge2010 on 05.28.2011 at 08:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

I fell in love with the Bistro comfort mats from Ballard Design. May not be simple enough for you, but check them out!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ballard Design


kitchen standing mat
clipped on: 05.28.2011 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2011 at 08:39 pm

RE: Kitchen Sink Faucets with spray - Pullout or Pulldown? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: akchicago on 03.27.2011 at 05:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am linking below a very helpful older thread that lists specifically the pros and cons to each type of pull-out or pull-down faucet. Regarding Laughable's comment about the switching from spray to regular flow, I am sorry, but Laughable is misinformed. That function has nothing to do with whether a faucet is a pull-down or pull-out style. It is the manufacturer's choice to make a faucet's flow function one of the following, regardless of whether the faucet is a pull-down or pull-out: (A) the faucet has dual trigger buttons, so that the user can switch between regular flow or spray by pressing the correct button, or (B) the faucet has a "hold and release" button meaning you have to keep holding the button to keep it on spray, and when you release the button, the faucet reverts to regular flow. Sometimes it is difficult to tell by the manufacturer's description which type a faucet has. You either have to go to a showroom where one is on display, or call the manufacturer's customer service number and ask. BTW, I far prefer the method (A) I described. I don't want to have to hold down a button to keep a faucet on spray. That is the same issue I have with side sprays, which are made that way.

Regarding ergonomics, that issue goes both ways with the pull-out or pull-down. With a pull-down faucet, some feel it has better ergonomics when it is on spray, cause it is a more natural position for the hand to have the faucet pointing down. On the other hand, others feel the pull-out is more ergonomically friendly because it is closer to you, since it reaches farther into the sink than a pull-down. The pull-down is closer to the rear side of the sink, and some people find that hard on their backs or their arms. It's a matter of personal preference, and an individual thing.

The link below is educational. But the very best method to choose a faucet is to go to a showroom where they are on display and pick them up in your hand. Consider the weight, the size, the reach distance, small head or large head, how the hose feels when it is pulled (some people prefer the braided stainless, others prefer the plastic-covered; again, personal preference), and of course, the appearance. Also be aware of the height of the faucet if you have cabinets above the sink, or the reach of the faucet if your sink is not deep front to back.

Yes, the faucet choice is complicated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Educational Thread about Pull-our & Pull-down Faucets


clipped on: 04.20.2011 at 12:05 am    last updated on: 04.20.2011 at 12:05 am

What I've learned from 3 mos in my MIL's white kitchen

posted by: mklee01 on 04.12.2011 at 12:38 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a small effort to give back to the GW community from whom I've learned so much. My husband and I are building our house from the ground up. During construction, we are living with my in-laws - with our 2 daughters aged 3 and 1. Yeah! ;) In December, we all moved together to their new house with their new, beautiful white kitchen. Here's a few pictures and what I've learned from 3 months living in their lovely new showcase.

Counters: white quartzite. These puppies are hard. However, they have been prone to water spots and oil spots. We've resealed them several times and had the oil/water spots removed (our fabricator was committed to getting it right). Now they are performing well, but my MIL insists that we BABY them. We don't put anything down on them without a cutting board or kitchen towel. Not exactly bullet proof, but gorgeous!

Cabinets: Omega Dynasty/Custom. They are beautiful. The finish has wiped clean and the pearl white color is lovely. The construction, hinges, and soft close drawers are really well made. There were some snags like a cracked frame and I've been a little surprised by some cracked paint where the pieces of the hood surround come together. However, I'm really picky and overall these are wonderful cabinets.

Sinks: Both stainless steel by Kohler. We love the single bowl 36 inch farmhouse sink. It does scratch and show water spots, though. The interior measurement is only 13 inches and find that too small.

Faucets: Kalista polished nickel. They always show fingerprints and water spots. The soap dispenser is reacting with the soap and looks tarnished. In contrast, the cheap-O polished chrome water filter has been great. Go figure.

Floors: Brushed limestone. At first, these floors were a nightmare. They showed a mark if food touched the floor for even a moment. We had them steam cleaned and re-sealed with an Italian sealer. Now they are much, much better. In fact, I managed to wipe up navy blue magic marker that my one-year old drew onto a 1 foot square section without a trace. (I nearly had a heart attack).

Pendants: Vaughn and Co. Really lovely, really great quality. Not cheap, though.

Tips I picked up from their construction process:

1) When spacing the sink faucet and soap dispenser, make sure that you consider how much space to you need for your hand in between the two. Also, consider the length of the "dispenser" on the soap dispenser. We should have positioned our a little closer to the lip of the sink, so to avoid dribbling soap onto the counter/sink wall.

2) Make sure that you (or your cabinet maker/KD) check the size of your range model. Our KD assumed that the 48" Wolf range would be slightly less than 48" when measure the cabinets. Turns out it was 48" exactly and the range did not fit in the cabinet run.

3) Seal the grout for the backsplash especially behind the range. Consider a four inch backsplash. I'm thinking about adding a 4 inch stone backsplash behind my range because it is a bit hard to keep that area clean.

4) If you work with a fabricator at the time that you select your slabs, the fabricator can test your samples to tell you a bit about the stone. Our fabricator tested the porosity of a white quartzite that I'm considering for me and sealed it so that I can test it myself.

5) If you are okay with a little patina and occasional etch mark, you can use marble with toddler. My MIL used extra marble from her bathroom to create a top for the kitchen table. My 3 year old eats at the table everyday with a place mat. The Calcutta marble is holding up really well. We do have a couple of etch marks from spilled OJ, but I think they are great.

For all of you researching kitchens out there, I hope this info helps. I also hope that these pictures show up. :)


white quartzite and skinny white backsplash
clipped on: 04.13.2011 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2011 at 12:09 pm

Finished Contemporary Kitchen

posted by: momqs on 02.28.2011 at 07:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you sooo much to all of those who have spent so many hours on this forum posting pictures and providing advice and feedback. Our kitchen was 99 % finished by Thanksgiving (about 8 weeks from when we started) and then it took 2 months for the last piece to fall into place. We had an amazing contractor who was here every day and provided great creative ideas. Their bid was about 10% higher than the our other choice but we felt in the end it was the best money we spent because they always had great ideas when decisions had to be made.

So here is our finished kitchen!

Our goals
Update our builder grade kitchen and open the space, and see more of the outside. Add a mudroom (I don't have good photos of this).

The project
We gutted our kitchen, knocked down a wall between the breakfast room and the family room, took down our upper cabinets and created a window wall, and also added a mudroom by taking over 1/2 of the 3rd bay in our garage.

The details
Cabinets: Custom - Wellsford Cabinetry (PA)- Cherry w/ a Shaker Door
Appliances: Everything is Thermador except the hood which is Modern Aire.
Paint: MAB Mystic Lake (this was the old color that we matched)
Counters: Quartzite: White Pearl AKA White Princess - Polished
Backsplash: Honed Carrera Marble plus AKDO Bubbles
Sinks: Elkay
Faucets: Grohe Minta
Counter Stools: Pottery Barn
Floors: Maple 5" plank
Lights: Access Lighting Proteus




cherry cabinetry with white quartzite counters
clipped on: 03.31.2011 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2011 at 01:35 pm

RE: Show me your Blum Spacecorner Drawers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: plllog on 12.18.2010 at 01:04 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't know what "spacecorners" are, but my hardware is Blum.

Here is one of my corners. Flatware in the top, then plastics, then tea towels.


Here's the middle drawer open when it had dishes in it. I'm not a dishes in drawers type, but I gave it a good try.


Here's a detail showing the beveled edge. That doesn't work with veneer because the veneer would be all on its own at the pointy part. With the bevel there's no need for the pullout drawer fronts.

detail open

This is the middle drawer with the plastics now, so you can get a better idea of space by the comparison. It's a bit stuffed because I cleaned out the freezer when I moved into the new kitchen. I used this as an opportunity to shove the old, odd plastics (like the pickle keeper, which is left from buying bulk pickles and will come in handy if I ever make my own) into the back of a less accessible cupboard.


These utensils are between the stove and the baking. You can see in the back that my bowl of my big ladle fits in the back point beautifully.

open top

The top part of this drawing shows the plan in the Blum PDF. The second one is what I envisioned from looking at the actual drawers in the photos on the site. Those have the pointy backs.


This is a dreadful sketch, but shows what my cabinetmaker's guy figured out. There are pins at the backs of the rails that are supposed to fit into the end of the wood sides of the drawers. In my plan I, above, the side of the drawer is the same size. It just changes the back. What the cabinetmaker did is extend the sides of the drawers to go all the way back, and gouge out a place on the bottom for the pin to lock into. I don't have a picture of that, though. This makes the drawers a lot longer. They're not full extension (you can see in the pictures above, which are pulled out all the way, that there's a part under the overhang. I think the Blum plan has them the same size front to back as for regular drawers, but because of the angle, there are inches more that they could go back. Since my aisles are wide, my cabinetmaker give me the whole length (subject to my (enthusiastic) approval). He first made them according to the Blum plan, but without the triangles. That's the first time I learned that the Blum plan was dumb. As I said, in the photos, the drawers are pointy at the back.

new plan

I love these drawers! My canisters are in the drawers under the utensils (and yes, I have five whisks. They're all different and have different uses, but mostly were accumulated over 30 years). I just love opening the drawer, pulling the top off the canister, and dipping out a little sugar if I'm cooking, or standing on the other side, and dipping out my staples for baking. I do lift out the bread flour from the bottom drawer, however, because I use so much of it at once. I had pie cut super susans in the old kitchen. They were fine, but I hated them anyway. I LOVE the drawers. And I did the math. There's at least as much storage space.


clipped on: 03.04.2011 at 09:01 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2011 at 09:01 pm

RE: What color floor tile with white cabinets and soapstone count (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxerpups on 02.24.2011 at 06:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

A good floor guy can match old with new and create a uniform look.
But not everyone wants wood in their kitchen. You may
love the idea of a tile floor. Here are some ideas...



DIY Dkim 104


daltile Continental slate

Slate floor tile

White kitchens with dark counter or soapstone and tile floors.

Randl Bye Kitchen designer contractor

Randl Bye


The State of Things


Kitchen in Montclair

Soapstone counters

Elle Decor

Markham Kitchen

Old Homes New life
Window Next


soapstone & with warming drawer by cooktop under drawer. Mantles and flooring options
clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 07:44 pm

RE: Will this layout work? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: buehl on 01.26.2011 at 12:10 am in Kitchens Forum

Warming Drawer....definitely place it near the cooktop. A couple of years ago there were a couple of threads here and, IIRC, on Appliances that discussed warming drawers. What was discovered was that those who placed their warming drawer very near the cooktop (under, right next to, or directly across from) used it frequently. Those who placed it far away and/or in the bottom of an oven stack rarely, if ever, used it and they regretted getting it. Those threads changed my plans (I had planned my WD to be under my ovens) and I placed mine right next to my cooktop...and I use it 6 or 7 times a week! My KD actually tried to discourage me from getting a WD b/c she said that most people use them to store paper cups & I know why...location, location, location!

Pantry...I like corner pantries, in fact, I have one after seeing it here...SharB's pantry. Some people like them, some don't. I think you have plenty of room for one if you want it, but I think the concern is that it will be on your window wall and may detract from the windows. Mine is also on an exterior/window wall, but it starts about 5' from my 6'10" bay it doesn't compete with or detract from the window. A straight pantry is probably best in your case.

But, don't make your shelves too deep! Our old kitchen had a 6' wide x 3' deep pantry and it didn't work...mainly b/c it had 18" deep fixed shelves and wasted a lot of space. I do think that if I knew then what I know now that I could have made it work better, but I think the vast majority of pantry shelves should not be any more than 12" deep. That's deep enough for almost all small appliances. All my small appliances except my toaster oven fit on 12" deep shelves...blender, bread maker, waffle iron, toaster, food processor, slow cooker, coffeemaker (we don't drink coffee so it's stored most of the time), and even my KA stand mixer (although it's rarely stored in the pantry). It's also deep enough for almost all food...deep enough to line up cans 2 or 3 deep but not so deep that things get lost and forgotten (like they did all the time in my old pantry!)

Of all the layouts posted and linked to in this thread, I like your layout from the "Tue, Jan 25, 11 at 16:18" post the best...with a few tweaks, like moving the WD next to the cooktop, getting a prep sink at least 21" wide, deeper counters, and deeper pantry so you can access the corner better. If you made the pantry deeper, you might even be able to get a standard depth refrigerator (but I'd still make the refrigerator alcove at least 36" wide x 72" high).

HTH & Good luck!


clipped on: 01.27.2011 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2011 at 12:03 pm

RE: Backsplash help please - design behind range (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: boxerpups on 01.24.2011 at 10:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Allnew,

Here are some BS pics. I tried to find something to go with
your Kashmir Gold. The important part is the visual of
ideas for behind the range. Hope they help you.

Wine Roses Kitchen BS ideas


Calcutta Marble

Hometowngirl typepad blog

Wood Hood images

New Venetian Gold BS (Similar to KG not as creamy)

Media Images

Ask the builder web site

Tuscany Mist BS french country kitchens

Just Snooping blog

Lacanche range

Prime Renovations Texas

Atlanta tile


Steve Cole

Decorative Tile BS

Mosaic BS Kitchen and Bath Ideas website


clipped on: 01.24.2011 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2011 at 12:22 pm

RE: More practicalities: kitchen drawers (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: plllog on 12.05.2010 at 06:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Yep. The corner drawers pull straight out. There is some lost space, but they actually hold about as much as pie cut susans (i.e., with the 90 degree corner rather the full circle with a diagonal corner).

This is now my plastics drawer. Tried the dish thing, but I'm just not a dishes in drawers person:

open drawer

There are a couple of modifications to the Blum plan here. They show a square back to the drawer which extends so the back is past the counter and the corners are under it, and has an added triangle in the back to fill the space. I thought this was weird and wasteful. There was a picture of the corner drawer online which had a pointy back that follows the shape of the opening and fully extends with usable space, and the sides extending back to where the rails clip in. My cabinetmaker, once I explained what I wanted, did one better, and made the drawers to go all the way back to the wall. This way they're not full extension, but it gains me several extra inches of storage space, so in the end it is actually competitive with the full circle susan.

Here's a sketch of how the drawer is constructed:



clipped on: 12.18.2010 at 06:18 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 04:38 pm

RE: pondering pantries (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: pudgybaby on 12.30.2010 at 11:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

My pantry is a bit like you describe. Mine is 42 inches wide by 24 inches deep. Like the photo posted by laughable, my drawers on the bottom go to counter height. I have two drawers that are the full 42 inch width on the bottom, and two 1/2 width drawers above those. There are large pantry doors above the drawers with 3 rollouts and one fixed shelf at the top.

We are really happy with this arrangement. The doors are big, and when I want to pull out one of the rollouts, I have to be sure that the doors are fully open. And the rollouts are huge. So I guess you could say that they are a little unwieldy, but I'm not sure that I would do it any differently. But I think your idea of drawers up to 48 inches would work great, too. However, I would definitely do rollouts on the upper part behind the doors. Without them you would have to be shifting the items in the front to get at the items in the back.

Our pantry holds a ton of stuff. We use one of the 42 inch wide drawers for pots and pans since the range is nearby.

Here's a couple of pics:




clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 04:22 pm

Filler b/w pantry and fridge?

posted by: breezygirl on 01.07.2011 at 03:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's my kitchen plan with a corner pantry. The entire house remodel is hung up at this point over figuring out how to place a door on the pantry and the possible interference with the fridge doors. The house is gutted and waiting for work to start. I need help to get this resolved and begin forward progress.

I'm planning (but haven't purchased) a Kitchenaid counter-depth french door fridge KFCS22EVMS. It's 27 5/8" deep without handles, and 30 1/8" deep with handles. I believe the door swings open 90 degrees.

The pantry will most likely have a traditional door on it swinging towards the ovens. I will install a hinge blocker-thingy gadget to stop the door from swinging all the way into ovens. (I was considering two pocket doors that pulled out and swiveled to meet in the middle, but I'm not sure that can be done with the framing necessary to hold up heavy pantry shelves.) I am planning on using 2'x3's for framing instead of 2'x4's to save some space.

**The aisle between fridge and island will NOT be 48". It will be 42". I don't have that drawing uploaded.

Scale is 1 square = 12".

Plan B with banquette, ovens on peninsula 12-1-10

Here's a close up with walls drawn in with the scale of 1 square = 3".

Corner pantry, fridge closeup 1-3-11

Will the fridge door bang into the pantry door when opened? Do I need a filler b/w fridge and pantry? How big a filler? Other suggestions? I'm getting desperate here.


clipped on: 01.21.2011 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2011 at 02:58 pm

RE: Teach me about hoods, please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: guadalupe on 01.11.2011 at 09:34 am in Appliances Forum

The hood should be at least 36" wide and 24" deep, duct work would be 8" round and the blower 600 t0 1,000 cfm. the bottom of the hood should be 30" off the cooking service but no higher than 34" off the surface. The better hoods would have baffle filters as opposed to mesh (better performance - easier to keep clean) Brands could be Wolf, Elica, Prestige, or any Brand that meets the qualifications of 24" deep and Baffle filters. Remember to use the hood when oven is on it will produce better fuel air mixture and increase the oven performance.


clipped on: 01.11.2011 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2011 at 12:40 pm

Lolauren's finished kitchen -- photos! -- white, inset, shaker...

posted by: lolauren on 01.02.2011 at 10:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can finally post photos of my kitchen from our new construction house! I am very relieved to be able to say that. I designed every detail in this kitchen down to the inch and loved the design process. This forum was my biggest help and inspiration, so thank you to everyone!!

I had to cut myself off from posting too many photos. So, the rest of the album is here: ALBUM

Or, for the slideshow version: SLIDESHOW

Please feel free to ask questions.


Cabinets: Huntwood (Custom) Cabinets with shaker, inset doors (Huntwood does custom cabinetry. The color is their white paint option, as opposed to their creamy option. The closest match I can find to this is between Benjamin Moore's "white" and "super white." My door trim, baseboards, etc. are all BM's "Super White." It is just slightly brighter than my cabinets, but not noticably.)

Countertops: Cambrian black granite in a leathered/antiqued finish

Backsplash: White US Ceramics 3x6 subway tile

Appliances: are all Frigidaire Professional, except for the Electrolux cooktop (and my cheap GE microwave in the pantry)

Hood vent: I have no idea. It was whatever the builder used standard. I didn't splurge here, but the unit works perfectly.


* Main Sink: Grohe Bridgeford Bridge faucet with sidespray in ORB

* Island Sink: Grohe Bridgeford pull-down faucet in ORB

* Reverse Osmosis/cold water faucet: Newport Brass (I had to add this after the fact, upon learning that I needed a RO system. The Newport Brass model matches the Grohe faucet surprisingly well. The finish is almost identical.)

Sinks: Blanco Silgranit sinks in anthracit - larger is BlancoPrecis Super Single and smaller is BlancoPrecis 15.5" x 19.5"

Hardware: Rejuvention Hardware latches, pulls and knobs in ORB

Flooring: Lewis & Clark hardwood - color is Beacon Rock - wood is hickory - very distressed (this is a small company... it isn't the line Shaw offers)

Paint: Pittsburgh Paint's "Moth Gray" cut down to 75%

Window treatment: I didn't want any window treatment in the kitchen, but some days the sunset glares on me when I'm cooking dinner. To solve this, I put in a cellular shade that is almost completely hidden when closed. It looks like there is no window treatment, unless I really need it during those 10-15 minutes of glare.

Lighting: 10 recessed lights - I ended up opting out of pendants so the space appears more open. The three recessed lights above the island are on a different switch, for less light or future pendant additions.

Counter stools: Sturbridge Yankee Workshop's "Henry Leather stools" in black

Island dimensions: 51" x 91"

Island overhang: 19 inches on the long side, 11.5 inches on the short side (it was supposed to all be 19", but nothing ever goes right in construction! I still would prefer 19", but this doesn't bother me now with the stools in.)


clipped on: 01.03.2011 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2011 at 01:36 pm

RE: Durability of wood island? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: margcooks on 12.22.2010 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some pix (in my not-cleaned-up kitchen).

Here is a link that might be useful: Pix of Wood Island


wood island
clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:07 pm    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:07 pm

RE: Compost bin: on counter or below counter? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: celticmoon on 03.18.2008 at 11:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine was the stainless bin in a drawer. Google 'hotel tray' I was half crazy trying to find a tray or tupperware bin the right width and depth, then someone here pointed me to hotel trays (love this Forum, hey?) They come in many sizes. I got 2 so I could have one in play while the other is in the DW. Make sure the lid does not have a notch for a serving spoon. Works well, though I'd like to rig something so the lid lifts away when I open the drawer and drops back when I close the drawer. For now I just slide the lid back and forth. There is dead space at the back of the drawer where I park my potato ricer and a couple other rarely used things.

compost drawer insert


compost tray drawer
clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 11:56 am

Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish details

posted by: petestein1 on 09.14.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Almost two years ago I contributed to some posts about using my island top as a cutting board and got some helpful advice. I thought I'd post an update.

As part of a full renovation our kitchen island got a nice beefy top made of black walnut. Even though everyone thought I was nut, I said I wanted to use part of it as a cutting board. After all, it's a kitchen, not a museum. With that in mind, I had to come up with a food-safe finish for it. What I chose, based on advice here, was nothing more than a hand-rubbed application of mineral oil and bees wax.

I'm happy to report that it's been over a year and everything's gone great. First, the island looks great. Everyone comments on it the moment they see it.

Second, using it as a cutting board has worked out quite well. The wood is more than hard enough to stand up to my knives. Not having to get out a cutting board, and then keep all my chopped whatever on the cutting board as I work... it makes life so much easier. For those who told me I needed to do something akin to butcher-block -- making the island top out of end-grain... well, you were incorrect. End-grain would have been harder no doubt but the walnut is more than hard enough. And worst case? I break out a power sander and 1/64" of an inch later my island would be in immaculate condition.

No doubt, the knife leaves marks in the wood. But the wood is "busy" enough that you can only see them if you go looking for them and your eye is within 12" or so of the counter (photos below).

Oh, for those worried about food safety, I still don't get raw meat on the counter (though I think it would be fine as long as I cleaned up with soap and water afterwards). And we don't chop anything "stinky" like garlic or onion though we do work with other aromatics like rosemary and thyme. 15 months later and the counter has no odor of any kind.

Third, the finish. I was worried about this but in the end it's been fine. I melted some furniture-grade beeswax on the stove, added mineral oil (about 2 parts oil to 1 part wax) and let is solidify into a semi-hard paste. I rub it in, let it stand (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes overnight), and then I buff it out.

At first I was doing this every few weeks but now I only do it every 2 months or so. I could probably stand to do it a bit more often in the quadrant I use as a cutting board, but, well, you know, life gets in the way.

For the first 6 months or so if you left a wet glass on the counter for more than a few hours we were getting drink rings. I had to lightly sand those out and rewax. But now we seem to have a deep enough coating that we haven't had a drink ring -- or any mark of any kind -- for over 6 months.

How do I clean it? A soapy sponge. Simple as that.

Ready for photos? Ok, here's the island as whole:

Take a good look at the image above. Can you see where I've prepared over 100 meals? You know -- the section where I've sliced up thousands of peppers and cucumbers and apples and peaches and melons and tomatoes and potatoes and celery and carrots and parsnips, etc, etc?

Okay, the "cutting board" area is the left side of the island, from the bottom of the photo to the sink. That 25% of the island is the designated "cutting board" section.

Yes, the board closest to the left of the photo has a lot of lines in it, but those aren't knife marks, that's "tiger-striping" in the wood -- I chose that board for there on purpose in case I needed camouflage for knife marks.

Ok, ready for a close-up of the knife marks? This photo was taken from about 8 inches away:

...looks like a cutting board, doesn't it? ;-)

So what problems do I have? Well, we have a lot of friends and cook a lot of meals together, People like to help. Once they get past the "What??! I can cut right on the counter???!?" moment I have two problems.

First, it's hard to keep them in the designated 25% that I use as a cutting board. Yes, the knife marks are subtle enough that they could probably work anywhere but I still haven't let go.

Second, these same people occasionally use a bread knife that can take some comparatively pretty big chunks out of the top. This has only happened once or twice, and with a coat of wax the marks pretty much disappear. But still, it's stressful.

Bottom line? I strongly encourage people to explore using an island top as cutting board. Second, a food-safe finish is easy! Third, I love my new kitchen. :-)


walnut island
clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 10:16 am

Faucets (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: khills28 on 12.21.2010 at 04:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks nollie_gardener! I couldn't find it when I was searching (probably didn't try hard enough!)

What do you guys think of the one in the link? How does solid brass compare to solid stainless?

Here is a link that might be useful: Kraus


kohler simplice and kraus faucets
clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 06:18 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 06:18 pm

RE: Show me your Blum Spacecorner Drawers (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: kitchen_angst on 12.18.2010 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are mine, open. I don't have much to add to all of the info Pllog provided, except to say that I love the corner drawers and think they were a much better option for my space than having a piano hinge door and lazy susans, which is what was in the old kitchen. The drawers are so easy to use, easy to see everything. Mine are adjacent to the sink cabinet, so I had the sink cabinet made to include the triangular space abutting the corner drawers, giving some extra room in that cabinet.



corner drawers
clipped on: 12.18.2010 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2010 at 06:20 pm

oh, my lord!! would ya look at this tile!

posted by: pinch_me on 12.07.2010 at 07:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you don't find THE tile here, you didn't look at them all! I have GOT to stop looking at stuff. I'M DONE. Really. I am. I'm not going to have a tile backsplash.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bet ya can't pick just one!


clipped on: 12.07.2010 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2010 at 09:14 pm

RE: Kitchen Faucet - Help me choose!!!! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 10.28.2010 at 09:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

My Santec Penza locks--it's on my prep sink. It is sorta contemporary though and I am not sure that's what you are looking for. You push down on the top button of the head and it will spray. If you want it to lock there, you twist the button head slightly while pushing and it stays there until you turn water off.



White princess quartzite
clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 11:48 am