Clippings by buffettgirl

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Devine Paint in Hazelnut?

posted by: buffettgirl on 10.15.2012 at 09:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Anyone ever use it? Pictures if you have. :)

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clipped on: 10.15.2012 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2012 at 02:49 pm

RE: pictures of warm white cabinets with lighter granite (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: cali_wendy on 02.15.2010 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our cabinets are BM Linen White, granite is honed Colonial Gold, backsplash is tumbled Crema Marfil marble, walls are green and floors are white oak with medium brown stain. We have an open concept with plenty of natural light, but a couple of big trees that keep the house from being super bright. I wanted something light because I wanted the medium floors and I have darker wood furniture. Although it is pretty monochromatic, it still feels warm and cozy to me.

I don't have great finished pics yet. Here are some from Christmas and another with better lighting. Hope you can get the idea despite the poor lighting.

Photobucket

Kitchen looking towards dining/dry bar.

Kitchen from dining.

Kitchen with island

Photobucket

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for mom
clipped on: 01.17.2012 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 01.17.2012 at 11:17 am

RE: Would you recommend Restoration Hardware's knobs/pulls? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: iamnodiy on 01.20.2008 at 10:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't speak for the kitchen hardware but I have purchased a mailbox,towel bar and TP holder. All of them seem to be good quality and the finish has not changed. I think that they would be fine if you find something you like. I just received a coupon for 20% off which is posted below.

Here is a link that might be useful: RH coupon

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clipped on: 02.17.2008 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 02.17.2008 at 10:19 am

RE: Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas? (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: bungalowdawn on 02.07.2008 at 03:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a link to the type of step stool we keep in our toekick drawer. It's great for our 4 year old to help in the kitchen and we don't have to have the old unwieldy, always-falling-down, taller step stool that we used to keep in the kitchen. We got ours at Ace Hardware. I've seen them elsewhere lately but now I can't remember where. Maybe Bed, Bath & Beyond??

Here is a link that might be useful: Folding Step Stool

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clipped on: 02.07.2008 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2008 at 08:06 pm

RE: Hudson Valley pendants in old bronze - opinions.. (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ksfaustin on 01.29.2008 at 01:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have the Hudson Valley Randolph pendants in Historic Bronze. I have two of the smallest size above my island, and one of the larger ones above my breakfast room table. I'm not sure how to describe the color, but I really like it. It just looks like a nice ORB to me. And the quality of the fixtures seems really good, IMHO.

This is not the best picture, but it's the only one I have access to at the moment. I'll try to take more when I get home tonight.

Photobucket

In answer to your questions, I wouldn't describe Haverhill as contemporary at all. And I think the 8" would be a great size for a 6' island. My island is around 5', my pendants are 7" in diameter.

Hope this helps!

P.S. In case anyone cares: My cabinet hardware is from the Top Knobs Somerset Collection in "Old Iron". I chose this because the ORB didn't pop at all on my cherry cabs. "Flat Black" would have been fine, but the Old Iron had silvery undertones that I thought would work well with the stainless appliances. But - having a tendency to be matchy-matchy - I then had a hard time deciding what color pendants to use. Once everything was in, I realized it worked out fine - better than fine, actually - to mix the metals between the appliances, hardware, and pendants. :-)

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clipped on: 01.29.2008 at 01:52 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2008 at 01:52 pm

Natural stone primer/ granite 101 by stonegirl

posted by: mary_in_nc on 11.04.2007 at 09:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Found this through google search- apparently this was a previous thread in KF by Stonegirl. Felt it worth repeating.
///////////////////////////////////////////////

Hi folks -

This is a little article I wrote on another forum and in reply to a few questions regarding the selection of natural stone and stone fabricators.

In an industry that has no set standards, there are a lot of unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued or brushed should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab, looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab. Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This got done at the plant where the slabs were finished and is to add support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

On cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e. there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure. A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole nother can of worms.

On resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer. Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed does not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but gets resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Now for some pointers on recognizing good craftsmanship and quality fabricators:

Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality and their placement and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:

- It should be flat. According to the MIA a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

- It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

- The color on either side of the seam should match as close as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

- Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

- The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

- The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

- The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as close as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try an make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

Seam placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

Among the things the fabricator needs to look at when deciding on the seam placement are:

- The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

- Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

- Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will impact seam placement here alone.

- Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some don't. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

- Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

- Installability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again a 1001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam was done well, there would be - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs, and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece.

Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent, would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e. eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.

Like I said earlier - edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

A good edge should have the following characteristics:

- Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull or waxy.

- The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

- The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

- A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

- A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanised fabrication (i.e. CNC macines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

We have seen some terrible edges in jobs done by our competitors.

Do your research and look at actual kitchens. Talk to clients and ask them about the fabricator. Most good fabricators will not hesitate to supply the names and numbers of clients willing to provide referrals. Do your homework.

Regards,
Adriana

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clipped on: 01.23.2008 at 10:23 am    last updated on: 01.23.2008 at 10:23 am

how can I tell if something is soapstone?

posted by: buffettgirl on 01.14.2008 at 08:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here I am in the thick of kitchen renovations, an I've come to be on very familiar terms with my basement sinks. We've lived here since 1994 and I've never given so much as a passing glance at these sinks other than to make sure the washing machine is draining properly. They're circa 1952ish. They're very large, very dirty, very hard rock like, and very black (if i look under 50+ years of splattered paint) Someone painted the outsides a lovely green color. The same sinks are at my mom's house and my grandmother's house, all same neighborhood, all roughly the same age (though in better condition, so I know that they are a greyish color) so I'm assuming all the same materials were used in that period.

but as I was standing there washing dishes tonight I wondered what exactly are my big double sinks made out of. Could they possible be soapstone? And how could I tell for sure?

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clipped on: 01.16.2008 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2008 at 08:34 pm

Please help me choose an island for my kitchen...choices inside.

posted by: thundersweet on 12.05.2007 at 07:28 am in Kitchens Forum

I need help. I think I am going to purchase and island for my recently finished kitchen from High Horse. I just can't decide which one. I will be custom ordering in a 52x24 size. I will also order it in black with a butcher block top. My questions are...

which style?

painted black...distressed or not?

what color stain for the butcher block? (match the floors? lighter, darker?) I won't be using food directly on the top.

Or should I use granite? same granite (honed AB or a different granite) Dh thinks butcher block to mix it up a bit.

Here are a few pictures of my kitchen.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Remember, it will be black. Please look at my choices. It's between the farmhouse, bakers island table (the lady from high horse said this one and it reminds me of angelcub's custom island), cottage kitchen, or the Parsons Island. The Parsons island is stained in ebony. The entire thing. No butcher block.

Thanks so much for your advice and help. Oh, this will go in front of the sink area.

Sandy

Here is a link that might be useful: High Horse Ranch Islands

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kemper northrope in white.
clipped on: 01.14.2008 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2008 at 04:29 pm

need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

posted by: buffettgirl on 11.14.2007 at 05:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm pretty sure I want a wood topped island. The island won't have any "stuff" in it - it will simply be for sitting/eating/prep. But I won't be cutting directly on it.
I believe we're going to go with Maple.

What sort of finish should I get on this and how hard will it be to keep it looking nice? I don't mind if over the years it gets aged like a table would, from use, but I don't want it to look like crap soon either.

Is it practical? Will I like it? or will it be nothing but frustration to me?

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RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by gabeach (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 17:57

I have a heart pine topped island. The wood is from a building built in the 1800s. I love it. But, I would not want new wood. You need to decide what look you are after. Then, be particular about the quality of the wood. An island is small enough for that. My heart pine has a very tight grain, for example.

o
RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by jenellecal (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 19:18

I'm very interested as well. I've decided on a wood top for my bar/pennisula (strictly for eating, lounging and homework). Please share your thoughts, pics if you have them?

o
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* Posted by jenos (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 19:27

I am getting a black walnut island top (I can't wait!).

Here is a link that might be useful: Craft-Art Wood Countertops
o RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 19:37

gabeach - do you have a picture!! OMG I'd be lusting after it I'm sure!!!

o
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* Posted by angelcub (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 19:39

My hubby made our island and walnut top. I am thrilled with it. We haven't been using it for long, maybe a month or so. I'm sure it will eventually get scratched but that's ok. We have a casual cottage style home so polished and pristined surfaces aren't high on our want list. We have soapstone on our perimeter counters - love it and never worry about it.

gabeach, I love the sound of your old pine island. I tried to find some old wood but it's hard to come by in So.Cal. Do you have any pics?

Here is a link that might be useful: island pics
o wood counter

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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 19:47

yup, that's exactly the look I'm going for angelcub.

so are you going to do anything special on the top or just let it age?

o
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* Posted by angelcub (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 20:08

Well, after 6 coats of Waterlox and some missing brain cells, I'm sure, we'll just let it be and see how it ages. I'm sure the first few scratches will bring forth a curse word or two, but I'll get over it. : )

One word of advice - if you go for the waterlox finish, be sure to let it cure well between coats. The instructions say 24 hours but it really needs a few days, at least. I'm in a very dry climate and I thought it dried better waiting 3-4 days before putting on another coat. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation. The stuff really, REALLY smells and it lingers for days. I got a bad headache and I used it out in the garage.

Good luck and post pics!

o
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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 20:20

thanks for the tips!

o
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* Posted by rhome410 (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 22:25

Temperature and air movement will affect how long you need to wait between coats of Waterlox. I've been using it on our interior doors, and will use it on all our interior trim, our cabinet doors, and the wooden island top (which we won't cut on). In the summer it was a great project to do in a protected carport, but didn't work well at all when the air became cooler and moister...So now I'm in our unfinished, but heated house. It's stinky, but not too terrible. I'd say if you do thin coats (highly recommended or it becomes sticky), that if the temps are in the mid 60s to 70s, the 24-hour rule will work. If not, you have to adjust accordingly.

On the doors, I've used 2 coats of original/sealer, followed by a brushed coat, then a hand-rubbed coat of Satin. I will want to do more, I think, on the island, since it's a flat surface with more use/abuse.

o
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* Posted by jenellecal (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 12:32

jenos - What is the approx cost for your island top?

I haven't even began to look into that part yet, I'm just assuming it's less than granite (fingers crossed)

o
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* Posted by black327 (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 12:56

I am getting a tigerwood island top from Craft-Art.
Jenellecal, be prepared for sticker shock, at least from Craft-Art!

o
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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 13:33

this is what I was quoted - and its only a quote I got from my kitchen designer - I have no idea where she went for these quotes and they are just more or less a rough estimate not based on any actual selections:
My island is going to be 6' x 3'

1 3/4" thick maple top with ogee edges $1952
1 1/4" thick granite with pencil edges $1916

I don't want ogee eges on it anyway, so I know the wood will e a bit less but seriously, I was sooo surprised that the top would be THAT much. So yes, sticker shock to say the least!

o
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* Posted by angelcub (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 15:11

Wow, I had no idea they were that expensive but then again there is a lot of work that goes into making and finishing these wood tops.

Now I'm gonna make you wish you were into woodworking. ; ) We paid $400 for our walnut. I think DH bought 9-10 boards. We actually used 7 boards on the island, which is 60"x30". There was a lot of work and tools involved - jointer, planer, table saw, sanding, glueing, clamping (gawd, does he have clamps!), then the waterlox treatment. So materials cost - probably $650. Investment in tools - don't even ask. Knowing we did it ourselves - priceless. : )

It's those unseen costs - tools and labor - that add to the costs. If you can be sure you're getting a beautiful top, then I'd pay the price. Maybe cut back in some other area?

Diana

o
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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 16:13

Oh Diana, my dh has already said that he's going to do it himself. But I just want it done. He's incredibly talented and combine he and my Dad and no doubt the two of them could have built all our cabinets custom - but I want it done NOW and I'd rather just pay.

But the island top - I may relent and let him do it himself...we'll see.

o
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* Posted by patty_cakes (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 16:58

I would think just about any wood could be used just as long as it's well oiled, and depending how hard you're going to be hitting it with a mallet.LOL

It seems more often than not, Walnut is used, probably for it's hardness. Maple is definitely a soft wood.

o
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* Posted by angelcub (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 18:22

Well, I certainly can understand wanting to get things done. I have been at that point a few times during this DIY remodel. lol! I was just telling DH last night that it actually feels good at times to let someone else do something. One of the highlights of this whole undertaking was when Tom Shadley did our soapstone counters. It was wonderful to trust someone so completely and not have to decide anything but where I wanted the faucet holes. Yep, sometimes it's better to just write a check. : )

Good luck with whatever you decide!
Diana

o
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* Posted by fori (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 15, 07 at 19:51

Have you gone to unfinished furniture stores and seen if they have anything you can use? Some have table tops and you add your choice of legs (or islands) beneath. It might speed up hubby a tad. :)

I like a good solid polyurethane on my tables so I can wipe them down without worrying about the finish. We're a messy bunch and sometimes you just gotta use a soapy sponge where the kid ate!

o
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* Posted by napagirl (My Page) on
Fri, Nov 16, 07 at 6:47

"It seems more often than not, Walnut is used, probably for it's hardness. Maple is definitely a soft wood."

Patty cakes, I think you've got that mixed up. Maple is much harder than Walnut. Bowling allys and gym floors are usually maple. I think walnut is used because its so beautiful, and when its paired with a light cabinet the contrast is striking. I'm having a distressed walnut top on my 48x120 island, and my cabinetmaker was lucky enough to hand select full 10' long boards, all from the same tree.

o
RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Fri, Nov 16, 07 at 9:30

angelcub - yes - usually dh does all the work around the house so it totally kills him to hire anyone. Normally that's fine - if I say "Hey, can we move this light?" he moves the light. If I say "you know, our son needs a bookcase" he builds it. If I say "can we put in a new front door?" he does it. Its soooo great having a handy guy. Great on the pocketbook too. so it kills him to hire someone. So he's trying to find little projects - like he's going to wainscoat the bathroom himself and a few other projects too.

o
RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by patty_cakes (My Page) on
Fri, Nov 16, 07 at 15:36

Napagirl, you got me! It's Pine that's a much softer wood. ;o)

o
RE: need thoughs on wood topped island - not butcher block

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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Wed, Jan 2, 08 at 13:18

I need to bump this because I've come across a problem.

My KD says that she can only get 'butcher block' maple with a natural finish. NOT the look I want at all - she says stain won't be food safe it will only be natural and oiled. WTF? I have a stained table, why can't I have a stained counter? Its not like I'm going to cut directly on it. Is she misunderstanding what I want? Is there a difference between maple butcher block and maple that I'd want for a counter?

and for a finish like angelcub - I know you said waterlox - but is that a stain also or does it just bring out the natural beauty of the wood????

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* Posted by angelcub (My Page) on
Wed, Jan 2, 08 at 14:09

Hi buffettgirl, We didn't use any stain on the walnut. The Waterlox brings out the color. I had no idea it would darken up so much but I'm not sorry. We love the color and the finish wipes up with soap and water - so easy care. I'm tempted to use the walnut for the hutch top, too, even though we have a piece of soapstone for it. I just want to see that beautiful wood somewhere else. lol!

I don't know much about maple but I'd think if you weren't cutting on the surface or preparing food on it, say like rolling out dough, it would be ok with a stain. Are you talking about just basically using the island to serve food from and eat at? If so, seems safe enough to me. Maybe you just need to clarify your intended use with your KD.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide!
Diana

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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Wed, Jan 2, 08 at 15:12

Ahhh...angelcub I totally missed that you said walnut...!! Ok, that's good to know then, because my KD said they could get walnut, but the same thing, only oiled.. I'll ask about the waterlox. And the darker color is DEFINITELY what I wanted. Maybe my head has been thinking walnut but saying maple.?? lol.

o
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* Posted by napagirl (My Page) on
Thu, Jan 3, 08 at 7:02

A few months ago I called Craft-Art Wood Countertops inquiring about their distressed black walnut countertops. I was told they use a small amount of dark stain to highlight the distressing dents and dings. (I assume it was added after the Waterlox, so as to not stain the entire top. Just wanted to add this bit of info, for what its worth!

o
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* Posted by buffettgirl (My Page) on
Thu, Jan 3, 08 at 10:49

well I'm having a problem now.

The quote I have from my KD for a 6x3 walnut island top is almost 1200 MORE than if I went with granite. I don't know if I can justify it. She gets it from:
http://www.awpbutcherblock.com/
The price she's quoting me is about $3200!!!!! OMG

Does anyone have any different resources that they could recommend? I really really really wanted wood on my island - that's always how I envisioned it. I don't know if I am ready to just say forget it yet.

clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 11:09 am