Clippings by brooksideiris

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Titan Post Anchors (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: richb65 on 03.24.2008 at 09:18 am in Porches & Decks Forum

Just a couple helpful tips for you guys about Cumaru. Cumaru,Ipe and even Trex are very dense material and screwing, cutting or pounding nails into this wood requires pre drilling.

No two ways about it. But this kind of wood is way stronger than cedar or redwood in the end. The trick is to use a hole saw twice to get the cut deeper so you don't have to pound the anchor into as much uncut wood.

After the first pass with the hole saw, use a Forstner bit and remove about an inch of wood. Then use the hole saw one more time. The saw will cut deeper and tube will go in further before bottoming out. Then just pound it in the last 1/4" or 1/2".

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.24.2008 at 05:55 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2008 at 05:55 pm

RE: Cork over radiant (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: atelier on 01.12.2007 at 11:24 pm in Flooring Forum

cork2win,
Actually, in my experience, homeowners installing their own floor are the best ones at following installation instructions and specifications. Because it's their own money at stake. Most people are careful not to waste their own money and time by ruining their own floor...

Cork is tricky and does demand a very smooth substrate.
It might take a bit of practice before you can match the work of an installer who puts in cork professionally- but it's not impossible.

If you educate yourselves on the proper installation techniques, follow manufacturer's instructions, and take your time installing, you should do well. If you have any doubts or questions about what you are doing- try asking to speak to a technical or architectural representative with the cork company. If you've done enough background research and are fairly handy, you should be able to get good information on any of your outstanding questions out of these people. The manufacturer in the end likes to see a successful install.

You may even want the availability of technical help over the phone to be one of the factors in choosing from whom you purchase your cork.

I was suggesting you use an installer who's done this before only because that's what I would do if I were hiring someone to do the job for me.

Good luck with the project. How big of a cork floor is this going to be anyway? (gives me an idea of how feasible this is as a DIY project)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am    last updated on: 12.16.2007 at 01:07 am

RE: Cork over radiant (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: atelier on 01.12.2007 at 05:15 pm in Flooring Forum

I don't know why your duro rep said not to use a floating floor over radiant heat. Their own specifications (available here: Duro Design Specifications) say you can !?.

Anyway, I've installed cork floors over radiant heat both as floating and tile several times with no problems.
It is a common installation- you just need to follow certain steps to assure a good install. In brief: proper acclimation of the material, having the heat on "medium" (max surface temp. of 85F) 5 days before and during installation, a vapour barrier under the floor, and adequate expansion space at the perimeter, doorways, etc..
Definitely get an installer who has experience laying over radiant heat floors!

As for your question about the insulation value of cork blocking the heat from a radiant heating system. I get this question often, and the answer briefly is that cork is entirely compatible with a radiant heat floor. Here is the answer and rationale in detail, explained in point form:

1. A radiant heating system is not a quick-response system- i.e. it relies on thermal mass and heat radiation. That's part of its efficiency and why it is comfortable- the floor constantly radiates warmth upwards.

2. The insulative value of a material refers to how well it slows down the transmission of heat. The heat doesn't dissappear or get absorbed by the material- it just takes longer the flow through. So in practice, floor coverings do not affect the overall operation of a radiant heat floor because the heat will eventually get through. Remember- a radiant heat floor is not a quick response system- you don't just walk into a room and crank up the thermostat. (Of course don't do something silly like install a radiant floor over a drafty, cold basement, because you'd lose all the heat out the basement first)

3. Yes the insulation value per inch of cork is higher than that of wood but a cork tile is only 3/16" thick. I did the math a long time ago and the total R value of 3/16" of cork is almost exactly the same as 3/4" of a typical wood. So putting down cork tile is no worse than putting down 3/4" of wood.

4. That being said, a floating cork floor will have a bigger R value than a cork tile floor, because it is on a 5/16" mdf core, and thus will slow the heat transmission a bit more. I don't tend to use a floating floor, unless specified or the price differential is less than the added bit of surface preparation to bring a floor up to cork tile standards.

5. Finally, a site-finished cork tile floor will not gap visibly due to expansion/contraction of the radiant heat floor. Cork is a truly resillient material with excellent rebounding properties (95% recovery after 50% compression!) After all, cork itself is commonly used for control joints and gaskets.

Lengthy answer, but I'm hoping if the issue comes up again, we can just link to this post.

I hope I covered everything- If I've missed something, I'd be glad to follow up.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am    last updated on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am

RE: Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!!! (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: karencon on 10.21.2007 at 07:34 am in Kitchens Forum

DH designed this one in already installed cabinets. He nailed to the cabinet on the left with the dishwasher pulled out.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Just regular cabinet hardware, mounted on the side.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2007 at 03:01 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2007 at 03:01 pm

Granite fabricator said my requirements are unreasonable!

posted by: dandan74 on 11.30.2007 at 01:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had the fabricator did a small vanity first and there are some issues I want them to fix. Based on this job, I gave them a list of requirements for my kitchen countertop. She came back and said those requirements are impossible to meet and she does not want my business anymore. Am I being too picky?
Here is her reply:
As I stated in our previous conversation, the requirements that you are requesting cannot be accepted as part of our contract. We cannot be responsible for any color variations, fillers, pits, fissures or any other characteristics that are to be expected from a natural product. Your expectations of perfection in a imperfect product is impossible.

Here is my list:
Requirements:
1) Seams need to be flat and butted tight.
2) 1.5 overhang
3) Use clear caulk, not colored or white caulk between backsplash and counter, between backsplash and wall. Some of the places in bathroom need to be re-caulked.
4) Owner to present when the templates are placed on the slabs. Owner to decide seam placement, fabricator to find ways to match the movement, ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seams. Owner prefers to find a big slab with no seams.
5) Fabricator to make sure the seams between granite and stove/range are minimum
6) Owner to approve the granite slabs.
7) Fabricator to make sure there are no scratches, pits or cracks. Chips need to be filled.
8) Fabricator to make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
9) Fabricator to make sure the overhang is consistent.
10) No seams on garden window and behind or near stove on the wall.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.06.2007 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2007 at 03:20 pm

RE: Let's talk about the special things in your kitchen (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: alku05 on 06.30.2007 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

We also put in a lot of special features, most of which were suggested or inspired by this forum:

- vertical storage in the over-fridge and over-oven cabinets
- outlet in the broom cabinet for the dustbuster and stereo
- in ceiling speakers
- outlet for a charging/phone station in a cabinet
- undercounter microwave cabinet with pocket doors
- shallow wide cabinet that opens perpendicular to the other cabinets instead of a deep narrow cabinet- dubbed a "cantry" by this forum
- pull out spice racks behind the decorative columns on either side of our rangetop
- dishdrawer DWs on both sides of our sink
- dishes stored in drawers
- cheap corbels I stained to match our cabinets (saved us $800)
- plugmold
- full height trash pull-outs by revashelf
- pedal trash opener (thanks Lowspark!)
- instahot
- drawers everywhere
And best of all, an awesome, functional layout that allows several different kitchen activities to occur simultaneously!

Ok, so some of these aren't really that special, but we still love them!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.01.2007 at 01:31 am    last updated on: 07.01.2007 at 01:31 am

RE: Small oops -- wire range hood to undercab lighting (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: evergreendan on 06.29.2007 at 07:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Tom, that may be, but I can't for the life of me imagine why you wouldn't want your hood lights wired to your undercabinet lights. Under hood ... under cabinet ... same thing from a lighting point of view. Without doing this, the lighting scenes for the room have a black hole by the range. (I have 4 circuits on dimmers.)

Anyhow, I would have thought that everyone would want this and that I simply missed it. I had intended to warn others to not forget this, but, hey, maybe I'm alone in wanting it. Just trying to be helpful.

Actually, that would be an interesting thread -- silly things you forgot -- or almost forgot -- to account for.

In case anyone cares, my kitchen has a lot of custom small features that I think are going to be helpful:

1) Narrow / deep base cabinet for cookie sheets and pizza stones.
2) Wide / shallow cabinet for step stool (got that one from this forum).
3) "Flapper" style trash cabinet -- like a McDonalds trash bin.
4) Short / narrow / deep cabinet for foil and wax paper, etc.
5) Pull out shelf in cabinet for toaster oven.
6) Niche for phone with false panel behind it to hide wires, outlet, and phone jack. Have cable / internet here so I'll hide a wireless access point for good signal in the kitchen.
7) FloodStops for washer and icemaker, wired to lighting system (which will flash lights if there is a leak).
8) In-ceiling speakers.
9) Outlet for dustbuster to be store in prep sink base cabinet.
10) Outlet behind 4 drawers and coily-cords to wire outlets in back of drawers for cell phone chargers, etc.

Maybe someone will like an idea or two.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.30.2007 at 08:44 am    last updated on: 06.30.2007 at 08:44 am

RE: Is there a difference in buying Granite from China or Brazil? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.21.2007 at 09:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi guys!

Sorry I missed this thread *blush* I often just check the first page in the evening and some days we work out so late that I don't get around to it and things drop off the radar here pretty fast :)

Good golly - there is a bunch of questions in that post - guess I better get started:

Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued or brushed should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab, looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab. Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process. For the tumbled tiles it is a similar issue - although not really as critical. The tumbled finish is a more rough and random kind of finish and actually gets imparted on the stone by agitating it in a huge container. Just check that the finish is consistent everywhere.

On resined slabs and sealing: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. On extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer. Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed does not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but gets resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Seams: It seems a good book could be written about seams, their quality and their placement and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:

- It should be flat. According to the MIA a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

- It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

- The color on either side of the seam should match as close as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

- Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

- The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

- The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

- The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as close as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try an make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it :)

Seam placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view on this board, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

Among the things the fabricator needs to look at when deciding on the seam placement are:

- The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

- Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

- Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will impact seam placement here alone.

- Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some don't. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

- Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

- Installability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again a 1001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam was done well, there would be - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs, and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

Rodding: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece.

Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent, would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e. eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.

Like I said earlier - edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world :) Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

A good edge should have the following characteristics:

- Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull or waxy.

- The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

- The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

- A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

- A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanised fabrication (i.e. CNC macines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

We have seen some terrible edges in jobs done by our competitors.

Do your research and look at actual kitchens. Talk to clients and ask them about the fabricator. Most good fabricators will not hesitate to supply the names and numbers of clients willing to provide referrals. Do your homework. In an industry that has no set standards, there are a lot of unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators.

I'm going to have some coffee now :)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm

RE: Is there a difference in buying Granite from China or Brazil? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.13.2007 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Jude - thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it :)

tkml - granite is fine in a bathroom. We do loads of granite vanities and they all look great. Natural stone adds a flair to any room and the ease of care makes it a great choice for hard working counter tops.

rococo - The resin has a number of functions. First among them is to fill surface imperfections and to bind the material. The NVG in the original question would be a good example. The garnets in the stone tend to be flaky. This is a constant with any garnet inclusion in any material. The resin fills the crystals that flaked out and binds the ones with fissures. This results in a superior surface polish and a really smooth slab. Even materials like Ubatuba, Verde Peacock and Baltic Brown get resined for this specific reason.

Delicate materials like Delicatus or Gold and Silver get resined for added structural integrity. The resin penetrates the stone and binds the fissures inherent in these materials. This adds significant integrity to these stones - in some cases so much so that without resin some of these materials would not have been available to the consumers.

An added bonus of the resining process is that it makes the stones less absorbent too. In short - a well resined piece of stone is a very desirable thing.

Some pointers for knowing a good quality slab:

- Uniform surface polish. The surface should be smooth and uniformly shiny. Some stones do not attain a high gloss (i.e. Wild Sea is can not get as glossy as Black Galaxy, for instance) Natural stone also has inherent fissures and inclusions, all of which will show differently at an oblique angle in the light. These are normal - what is not normal is an uneven polish. Grind marks (often circular or linear dull streaks), stuns (lighter color "dings" or divots), scratches or hazy spots on the face of the slab are unacceptable. A limited amount of these imperfections could occur on the very extreme edges of the slabs - this is normal and part of the manufacture process.

- Fill. Some materials have (in some cases quite large) voids that will be filled. Lady's Dream, Gold & Silver (among others) and all travertines will have fill. This fill should be of uniform color, smooth and at level with the rest of the slab. Depending on the material, a moderate amount of fill is acceptable. Excessive fill is not desirable. Fill that has bubbles, dips below the surface of the slab or is otherwise of poor appearance is not acceptable either.

- Fissures. Inspect the slabs front and back if possible. Some stones will have fissures. It is to be expected. If the stone has large fissures right through the slab, it is not a good thing. In excessively fissured stones, the manufacturer would sometimes epoxy a scrim sheet (fiberglass or netting) to the back for additional support. This is OK. What is not desirable is for heavily fissured stones NOT to have the scrim sheets. This is looking for trouble. Discuss this with your fabricator and ask what the ramifications of your selection of these slabs would be. Often this would cause an upcharge for fabrication issues and a higher waste factor.

- Inclusions. Stone is a natural product. Things happened in the formation of it that caused it to have inclusions, veins and all kinds of other features. This is beyond the control of the quarry or the fabricator. Select slabs that are appealing to you. If the slabs have undesirable inclusions, and you insist on having that particular stone, make your fabricator aware of your preferences regarding those features. He in turn would tell you if he is able to work around the marks or not.

The best way to ensure that you get good quality material, though is to get a good and knowledgeable fabricator. He/she will help you choose a great material and make you aware of the strengths or weaknesses of your choices.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm

RE: Major Disappointment With Pella Windows and Doors - Caveat Em (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: guy_exterior_man on 03.02.2007 at 05:17 pm in Windows Forum

I'm truly sorry to hear your nightmare with Pella. We happen to install their windows almost every day of the week. Even I have difficulties with their field reps telling us we installed them wrong. I almost threw one of the field techs in a dumpster out of the second story patio door opening. He told me we installed the patio door out of square and level. So the delaminating door wasn't covered under warranty. I proved him wrong by showing him that their door wasn't plumb or perfect from the factory. One hinged doors hinge locations were 3/16" different on one side of the frame to the other. So I couldn't make them level or square if I wanted to. They replaced the patio doors needless to say. I know these field technicians, as their called, do anything and everything to prove it's not their fault. It's a sad thing to deal with. Unfortunately the new building code has made every manufacturers installation requirements code, no matter what. Meaning we must follow each manufacturers installation guidelines to the tee! So now we have to go by their posted information that's sent with each door & window.

Their vertical sliding windows are something we deal with all the time. I've always taught my installers that proper shimming has to be done on every window no matter what. The Pella units require that special touch because of how their built. Ounce we level and square the unit with shims in each corner, we screw all four corners down tightly. (We use cedar shims so humidity doesn't cause any movement) After the corners are done we then shim the center of the windows right at the meeting rails of each window. We adjust the reveal evenly from top to bottom. Ounce we get this done we lock the center of each frame with screws. This will hold the window in the same place forever. We do all the lock down screws from the inside right threw the jambs. We also nail it down on the outside with the nail flange. After this we use a low expansion foam to insulate around the entire unit. Ounce this sets up it's also an adhesive. So the window isn't going anywhere after we're done. We use this technique on everyones window and we have no problem. But we do this for a living also. The average home builder wouldn't know this unless someone told them.

Another trick I use is Pledge Furniture Polish (Lemon Scent smells good) on all the weatherstripping up and down each side. I spray it on a towel and wipe both sides of the frame and also down each side of the sashes. I do this with every wood window we hang. The wax coats the weatherstripping and lets them slide much better with out much friction. The window functions much better and it's much easier to lock and slide. The field tech will never know about this one. I also think the seals are a bit bigger than they have to be. I guess the theory is after some time they collapse a bit and work better. The jury is still out on this one.

One thing to remember with any window is they have to be made perfectly square and functional from the factory before we can install them the same way in the field. You'll find that they don't come that way from the factory that often! Hope you get things resolved soon and good luck!!!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 04:49 pm

RE: Replacement Windows vs. New Construction Windows (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: guy_exterior_man on 08.25.2006 at 07:51 am in Windows Forum

Flashing is the product used to cover the nail fin area around a "New Construction" Window or Door after they've been set. Not to be confused with panning tape such as Tyvek Flexwrap (here's their site)

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/products/residential/products/flexwrap.html

The Flexwraps are used for panning the bottom of each opening before windows are set in place. They call it "flex wrap" so you can bend it up around the bottom corners of each window sill or around any arch tops or custom windows. With it's flexible membrane it's able to stay in one piece and wrap the entire sill and go up each side around eight inches. Flexwrap costs around $60 a box and will only cover a couple sills per box. This would be a very expensive product to use around the entire window. Remember that the Flexwrap is put on before the window is installed. The flashing is installed after the window has been set.

Before I get to far ahead we must keep in mind that the house must be wrapped with a house wrap (such as Tyvek House Wrap) before any of the other products can be put in place. When the wrapping is cut back and stapled down inside each opening as required then the Flexwrap can be installed. The top portion of the house wrap above each window & door opening is cut back and tacked up out of the way. Then the window or doors nail fin is back caulked and set in place with the top nail fin adhering directly to the exterior wall sheathing. Ounce the window is leveled, shimmed & nailed in place the flashing can then be installed.

The flashing is done in different ways across the Nation. We've been working hard with many of the building code councils to make the process more by the book across the Nation. This way all new homes will have the same protection no matter where you live. So houses built in AZ will have the same Air Infiltration qualities as we do here in MN.

Here in the colder climates we use a couple different flashing products. They are all very similar and all have a sticky back so they can adhere to the nail fin and the house wrap. You can use the Tyvek Straightflash or the Grace Vycor as Thull mentioned above. We use a product called "Protecto Wrap" on our jobs. We can get the tape in any size from 4" to 36" in width. We generally use the 6" on most of our applications. After the window is nailed off you use the shingle method when installing the flashing tape. The bottom piece goes on first, then the two sides and lastly the top piece. When taping the window remember the side pieces must come all the way down and cover over the bottom piece. None of the bottom piece should protrude out from under the side pieces. The tops of each side must go up just enough for the top piece to cover them completely. Remember the top portion of the house wrap was cut back so the flashing tape can fix the top nail fin down to the wall sheathing. We put the top piece of tape just across the nail holes of the fin and run it out around an inch past each side piece. This offers the best protection from water finding a way past any tape not sealed down right. Ounce the top tape is fixed in place we can then flip the house wrap down over our tape. We then cut the house wrap up so we have a good portion of the windows nail fin visible for final taping. We then use the Tyvek Tape to tape the house wrap to the nail fin., Some installers run the house wrap right down to the window itself with no place for the tape to adhere to. By cutting back the wrap and exposing some nail fin we get the tape to seal the top of the window tightly for no potential leakage. We then tape off any little cuts where the flashing tape and the house wrap intersection. Ounce this is done we back caulk an aluminum drip cap and nail it above the door or window (with cap nails) to finish the job. It sounds complicated but it's really easy ounce you've done it. Good Luck!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Protecto Wrap

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 04:22 pm

RE: code for electric water heater in a closet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lazypup on 07.21.2006 at 11:31 am in Plumbing Forum

For electric water heaters there are no floor, ceiling or sidewall clearances listed in the plumbing codes, however many local fire codes do have restrictions.

It must remain accessible for service, inspection & removal.

When enclosed you must provide a minimum of 24"W x 30"H door.

The front of the water heater where the controls and wiring are must remain accessible.

When installed on a raised plateform, the support platform must be enginered for the combined load of the water heater and the water when full. (50gal x 8lbs/gal= 400lbs plus the weight of the water heater).

When installed on a wood floor or any surface that can be damaged by water the tank must have an approved drip pan.

The drip pan must have a minimum 3/4" drain line run outside the structure or to an approved indirect waste receptor. ( May not be combined with the Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P) line.)

The Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve must have a discharge line who's diameter is equal to or greater than the diameter of the T&P discharge port.

The T&P discharge line must be run outside the structure or discharge into an approved indirect waste receptor.

All horizontal runs of the pan & T&P discharge lines must be run with a 1/4" per foot pitch dropping downward toward the discharge end.

When run outside the structure the discharge end of the line must be not less than 6" nor more than 24" above average grade.

If you do not have a lockable cover or direct line of sight from the water heater to the electrical service panel you must install an electrical service disconnect in the immediate vicinity of the water heater.

The cold water supply line to the water heater must have a full bore type shutoff valve (Gate valve or ball valve) and the valve must be immediately accessible.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.20.2007 at 05:24 am    last updated on: 04.20.2007 at 05:24 am

RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: MongoCT on 12.03.2005 at 10:39 pm in Remodeling Forum

Code does now allow unvented cathedrals, but there are restrictions to do so.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm

RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mjgcamper on 12.03.2005 at 07:24 pm in Remodeling Forum

I opened a cathedral ceiling in the early summer to install skylites. The insulation was packed too tight. Did not meet code, and the plywood for the roof (roof sheathing) was wet on the underside.

The uniform building code requires 4 mil poly visqueen with a minimum one inch air space above the insulation.

Each cavaty or bay between rafters must be vented to this one inch air space by the installation of baffles.

I specialize in cathedrals, and use unfaced insulation batts, which we slide down over the already stapled in visqueen in four foot sections. High density cathedral insulation from Owens corning stays up the best if you want it to stay on its own till you staple the required visqueen.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm

RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: MongoCT on 12.02.2005 at 04:06 pm in Remodeling Forum

First the cellulose...you can use cells, and if you do, have them dense-packed. That prevents them from settling. As was previously mentioned, you can install the drywall, then blow the cells through the holes in the drywall, then patch the holes. Not a problem.

Or you can hang the mesh net, which is designed to work with cellulose insulation. Then you drywall over the net. Your choice.

Regarding fiberglass. Ubfaced batts are sized to friction fit between the rafters. No staples, no problems, and easy to install as long as the framing is on a decent layout. Over that, as you wrote, you can install 4- or 6-mil poly.

Home Depot and most lumberyards sell the poly. Usually available in 10' length by however long you want it. 10' by 100' rolls is the most common.

If you do the FG, do yourself a favor...after the FG is installed, install sheets (4' by 8') of rigid foam board insulation. I prefer foil-faced polyisocyanurate. Also available at Home Depot and lumberyards.

Gap the sheets by about 1/4" to 3/8ths inch when you hang them. The ends of the sheets do not need to break over the rafters, they can break in the niddle of a rafter bay. After hanging them, use canned foam to seal the gaps. This will give an aiir-tught assembly, which is what you need in a cathedral ceiling.

Fiberglass alone vs cellulose of FG with polyiso? Fiberglass is transparent to radiant energy, so when your roof heats up from the sun, it will become a monster radiant panel. The radiant energy from the roof travels through the FG, then heats up the drywall, then the drywall becomes a monster radiant panel, and it'll heat up your great room in the summer. Same idea behind hot attics in the summer. Fiberglass will do nothing to stop that gain. You need polyiso or come other RFBI.

The polyiso will block the radiant gain, keeping the additional heat load out fo the great room in the summer...and with it's top-notch air sealing capability, it'll keep your great room warmer in the winter.

Polyiso is R-7 per inch, it'll also act as a thermal break between the rafters and the insterior conditioned space.

Cellulose is also opaque to radiant energy. But remember, if you install cells in a rafter bay, you need them dense-packed, and that means no air channel at the top for traditional venting. That is NOT a negative in my book. Dense-packed cells do not neccessarily need a vapor barrier either. You can still install one, but you don't need to.

Also, with this cathedral ceiling, try to not put any holes in the ceiling...can lights, etc. Keep it air tight, that'll prevent any moisture-laden air in the living space from getting into the cathedral assembly through can lights (even air tight ones) or junction boxes for electrical.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm

RE: Sliding Pocket Doors (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: maredog on 04.03.2007 at 06:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi! I am in the middle of a whole house remodel and we are having our contractor put in two pocket doors, one in a tiny bath and one in a bedroom that needs all the space help it can get. I found quite a bit of info when I did a search on the remodel forum. I think that it is a little tricky but not rocket science..of course we are not doing it so easy for me to say! They get a bad rep but I think it is misinformation more than anything else. We got the feeling our GC was reluctant to put them in so we did some checking ourselves. Here is a quote from one of the forum responses that we sent our contractor:

"The Johnson kits are pretty decent, but I never use the 'pre-framed' ones.
I build out a thicker wall (about the same as a wet wall). This allows electrical boxes to be installed.
Johnson has a number of different ratings on the hardware.
The 111PD line is more than adequate for most interior doors and keeps the track under 1.25 inches wide.

One of the 'tricks' is to never mount the track directly to a weight bearing header.
The header should be moved up a few inches, then a section of 2x mounted with clearance from the header, and the track attached to the 2x.
This is not required in non-weight bearing walls, but avoiding any sag in a weight bearing header will ensure the pocket hardware functions for a long time.
The only other problem I encounter is the plastic tabs used to prevent the door from swinging. They tend to scratch the portions of the door that rub against them.
I put aluminum angle in the bottom of the pocket and cut a matching groove on the bottom of the door. If the groove is stopped before the 'show' edge of the door it cannot be seen.
Another trick for panel doors is to add a strip of wood to the pocket edge the same thickness as the door and about 1-2 inches wide.
This allows the full width of the door to be used while leaving some in the pocket for noise and swing control.
Adding a stop on the non-pocket jamb also helps with sound and blocks sight (if you really want to reduce sound 'brush seals' or even felt seals around the door can help).
The split trim jamb on the top of the door should be mounted with screws (on at least one side). You will need to remove it to get the door off the bogies. Trim head square drive screws provide a good option here.

Pocket door hardware is definitely finish carpentry, not framing.
Make sure you have the correct kind of carpenter.
If you Google Johnson Pocket Doors and go to their website they have a video that demonstrates how to do the installation!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 07:54 am

RE: Inset door cabinets on a budget? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: gunderson1909 on 02.02.2007 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you do end up going with a local custom cabinet maker, ask lots of questions up front and check references extra carefully. Make sure details like hinges, interiors finish, gap size, tolerances etc. are sorted out ahead of time. For example, one thing that I have noticed in quality cabinetry (especially in cabinets with glass doors and lights) is a band of wood inside the cabinet to block the light from the gap.

Even if the cabinet maker sells herself or himself as the expert, be very specific. Just my words of advice in the midst of a very frustrating experience. Lots of people have good experiences with local custom cabinet makers - you just cannot take the details for granted. Good luck.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.09.2007 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2007 at 12:20 pm

RE: Any one in the Kansas City area? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mtnative2 on 01.25.2007 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

We are building a house in a suburb of Kansas City. I did consult a KD...who happens to be a friend of mine, but ended up doing things myself. There is a wonderful place in Grandview that has a whole warehouse full of discount building supplies like cabinetry, granite, lighting, etc. It is called Patriot Products and it is near the old House of Lloyd complex. We got a lot of stuff through them and at their auctions. (Got the granite for $10 per sq ft at the auction...still have to have an installer put it in and make the cuts.) Do you work outside the home? This is very time consuming trying to manage people and the timing of everything! Good luck.
Dana

PS: I don't know how to give you my email address without sharing it with the world!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.30.2007 at 02:56 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2007 at 02:57 pm

RE: Low cost high impact special touches (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: gregdrose on 12.21.2006 at 09:15 pm in Building a Home Forum

Recess a flat screen TV into a wall. Have another wall built 6" infront of the first wall and have your carpenter frame an opening a few inches larger than your flat screen so you can mount the flat screen on the first wall.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 10:07 am

RE: If you were/are the GC... can you share your project plan? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: momto3 on 01.22.2007 at 10:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you are not making any structural changes to the space you can do OK. And if you are not handy yourself, you have to really trust your trade specialists! Once you have a great plumber, a great electrician you are on your way. Then you'll need a good plasterer, too.

The coordinating wasn't too bad, but my father WAS A HUGE HELP. He is a carpenter and a woodworker and could really relate with all the tradesmen. This was huge. Plus he knew exactly what they were all doing(because I sure as heck didn't!)

The hardest part is the legwork for making your descisions. This can be very confusing and time and labor intensive. At least it was for me.

Our plan may be different because we replaced all existing plumbing and upgraded to 200 amps in the house and updated all the electric.

Here was our basic agenda:

tear out to studs and discard
rough measure and order cabs, sinks, faucets and appliances
new plumbing and ventilation
wire for underlying electric
plaster walls and ceilings
remeasure the space to...
adjust cab orders
install floors
install cabs
install heaters under cabs
install window and door trim/baseboard trim
paint
template counters, have sink ready
install lights and wallplates for electric
finish floors(ours were hardwood)
install counters
install appliances
Backsplash TBD
For us, everything hinged on the plumber. He really delayed our project by weeks and even months. Get a good one and have him estimate how long the work will take in a good scenario and in a bad one(we needed ALL new plumbing due to old crumbling pipes discovered after the tear out.)

If it is an old house, have a backup lighting plan ready and use a lighting specialist in a light store.

Other than that, just make sure you know what you want.

I am sure every plan will be different bsed on the house and the situation.

good luck!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 08:41 am

RE: Replace greenboard with hardibacker in gutted shower ? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 12.23.2006 at 06:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

No greenboard in wet areas. Only cement board.

Over the studs/framing place some sort of barrier that will act as a drainage plane...either 6-mil poly sheeting, or run #15 felt (tar paper) horizontally and overlap the upper courses over the lower as you go up the wall.

The 1/2" thick Hardie goes over the drainage plane (poly or felt).

For the seam between the drywall and the hardie, try to place it so it will fall behind the last run of tile...so the tile will be covering part of the hardie and part of the greenboard.

Be tiramisu,

Mongo

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 12:34 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.21.2007 at 09:37 am in Kitchens Forum

The LEDTronics strips we used came in fixed lengths, so we used the largest that fit into a particular cabinet section. For example, in a 36" cabinet section, we used a 24" strip. That leaves 6" free on either end; the beam spreads out by the time it hits the backspash, so the gap is not really apparent (BTW, the beam width spec on our LEDs was 85 degrees).

The power supply must be sized according to the power requirements of the LEDs you are using. In our case, the LED strips required a 12V, 2A power supply which we obtained from PowerStream, but any supply capable of supplying the required power should work.

Here is a link that might be useful: PowerStream 12V power supplies

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 03:21 pm

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.19.2007 at 04:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hope these aren't too late Jgarner:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:40 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.11.2007 at 06:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

John, DH says that within each cabinet section, separate light strips are daisy chained together, then for each section a single low voltage wire run inside the wall into the basement.

In the basement, the low voltage wires are connected in parallel to a single transformer plugged into a line outlet (which is controlled by a switch in the kitchen).

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:38 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:39 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: organic_donna on 01.08.2007 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know my LED's were a bit of a challenge to install. My contractor can do anything and he said they took him a lot longer than he planned. My lights have a transformer and we put it behind the cabinet above the fridge. If you look really close you can see the open cabinet and there is a hole cut out of it. They ran the wires down and brought them behind the upper cabinets and drilled a hole in the corner of the backslash

.Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:36 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:36 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.04.2007 at 10:04 am in Kitchens Forum

Donna, you're not hijacking the thread at all! DH says the installation wasn't very complicated at all. Just a matter of screwing in the brackets and snapping them in.(The wires having been run previously for whatever lights we were going to use) It took about 4 hours to install them.

I wouldn't use a dimmer either, the light never appears harsh or too bright. And I'm amazed at how thin they are.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:32 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: elizabethzen on 01.03.2007 at 03:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

"But all three seem to offer various colors including a 3000k. Does somebody understand the key difference between these?"

Yor're right, it is a description of the color of the light, measured in kelvins (k) not the width of the beam. Lower numbers are more yellow (warm), higher numbers more white/blue-white (cool).

Elizabeth

Here is a link that might be useful: color temperature

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:31 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.03.2007 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

>>- are they dimmable?
Not sure, perhaps with a special power supply?

>>is there a way to gang them up to get a continuous run?
The connectors do allow that, but there is still some space between strips. If the LEDs are hidden from direct view, I don't think there will be a very noticable light gap.

>>Does somebody understand the key difference between these?
I don't know, we used the 3000K "Incand White" LED strips from the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: LEDTronics STP306C

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:29 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 11:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our LEDs are 3000K color temp. which has a spectrum similar to sunlight (white-yellow). The LED Strips are also available in 7000K color temp. which put out a little more light, but they have more blue in their light spectrum.

The LEDs are very power efficient (about 15W total for all the cabinet LEDs) and they are cool to the touch.

We mounted the LED strips on the front edge of the underside of the cabinets and aimed them at the backsplash, so we don't have any glare off the counter top.

Here is a link that might be useful: LEDtronics LED Strips

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:20 am

Or This One? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vizslalover on 01.02.2007 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Or maybe this one that they show as undercabinet lighting...

Here is a link that might be useful: Tube Lighting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:19 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:19 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: elizabethzen on 01.02.2007 at 01:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Very cool! Your LEDs cast a beautiful light. Did you have LEDtronics make a custom strand for you? I don't see anything on their website with spacing (no space) like yours. Are these your lights in the link below?

Elizabeth

Here is a link that might be useful: LEDtronics Tivoli

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:17 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:17 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's definitely not blue C9pilot. But it's also not nearly as 'yellow' as it appears in the pics. They are, I believe in the yellow/amber family but in reality are a lot closer to 'true' light.(This was a huge fear of mine and why we fought over it...I didn't want 'fake' light) In reality I cannot distinguish a difference between these and say Xenons....and trust me, I was all set to see a difference and hate them. They really give off an appealing, true light. The yellow in the pics are from my camera I think...notice the other lights tend to yellow as well.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:15 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:16 am

RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 12:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Actually they are hardwired.(I've been living with dangling wires for a year) We've just been fighting over what type of light to use. DH tells me that most probably your electrician would have no problem snaking some wires for you, and in fact if you're fairly handy, you could do this yourself.The brand we used is LEDtronics.(But again, you do need a powersource)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:15 am

LED undercabs(Pics)

posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

So finally after a year DH wore me down and it was pretty clear that if I wanted undercabs I would need to go with LEDs. I feared they'd be to harsh but strangely enough, I really like them. These aren't fantastic pics, in some the lights seem to almost glow. In reality they are a lovely light that's perfect for tasks and ambiance.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:12 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:13 am

RE: Converting base cabinet with hinged door into trash pull out (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dmlove on 01.09.2007 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

That's the kind I have (also Rev-A-Shelf) and the only difference between your's and mine is that I knew which one I was going to use before I ordered the cabinets, so I ordered the cabinet box and a door without hinges, instead of a door with hinges. You'll just have to remove the hinges (there'll be a couple of holes on the inside, but so what). The hardware comes with the unit. Depending on the type of cabinet door you have (slab, recessed panel, raised panel, ec.), you may need to use the "door extender kit" -- we did and it works perfectly. Here's a picture of mine:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:17 pm

RE: Talk to me about Pasta Drawers! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: alku05 on 01.09.2007 at 02:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Quiltdog, do you have Home Depot or a Lowes nearby? Our HD has pasta drawers in their model kitchens. Go have a good look, remember to take your camera and sneek a few pictures.

From what I remember, the drawer front is framed with a clear panel. About an inch or so behind the drawer front is a wood panel that acts as a divider that separated the decorative fill area from the drawer storage area. The decorative fill area was left open on top with no way to close it off. HTH!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:09 pm

RE: Talk to me about Pasta Drawers! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: lyfia on 01.09.2007 at 02:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK Here is how I would build one. have a regular drawer (dovetail) that has an opening in the front, but a lower and upper rail. Opening covering the glass area. The rails to attache the drawer front that has the glass. Then route a grove to put a divider a couple of inches from the edge to fill with whatever and then the back of the drawer can be used for other stuff.

Also the drawer front should attach to the rails with screws.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm

RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jakuvall on 01.09.2007 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Few choices...

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=891-707

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=143-594

http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=1271

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm

RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 01.09.2007 at 08:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I used Restoration Hardware hinges. The size I chose was 2 1/2 x 2. This allowed easier installation than the 2 1/2 x 1 3/4 size.
The price is kind of up there, but so's the quality. They come with matching slotted screws. They are difficult to install, and you get one chance to get it right (no adjustment).
My doors were 3/16 smaller than the openings, so the margin is theoretically 3/32" on each side.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: RH ball tip hinges

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm

RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: eandhl on 01.09.2007 at 02:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

No picture to share but we have mortised. Our gap is about 1/8 inch. It gets smaller in the summer.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm

RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jakuvall on 01.09.2007 at 05:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

FWIW Wood-Mode uses a non mortised hinge, ball tip, sits exactly on the gap which is specked at 3/32"

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:57 pm

inset cabinet hinge help needed please

posted by: gunderson1909 on 01.09.2007 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Those of you with inset cabinets:

What type of hinges were used? mortised, non-mortised, etc.

How big is the gap between door and frame?

Can you share close-ups of your hinges please. Maybe a long-shot and a close-up if possible.

Do you know who made your hinges?

We want ball tipped style. The contractor is lobbying for non-mortised since they are easier to install and can be adjusted. It looks like they will create a bigger gap. Some gap may be needed anyway for changes in the wood. The ones he likes best also sit a bit more over the cabinet than right on the gap. It is so hard to know how the hinges will impact the look and use. This was just brought up to me now and they cannot cut the doors and install them until we have hinges. Any info or advice is greatly appreciated.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:56 pm