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RE: two water heaters? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bdpeck-charlotte on 02.25.2014 at 09:35 am in Building a Home Forum

Traditional Water Heaters keep water in the lines hot to cold over distance. A tankless setup won't do that. We find that it takes 2 minutes of full open tap to get hot water in some of our bathrooms. We installed a recirculating pump, the add on kind under a sink. It helps for hand washing, but it's still over a minute to get a hot shower going.

We installed two smaller tankless units, so we could have 3 showers going at anytime and in case one fails, we have another as a backup (which we've had each unit fail twice, so smart thinking on my part). By the way, don't buy Rheem tankless.

Tankless are more expensive, but they do allow for installations on the outside of the house so you could have one at each end very easily.

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clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 03:20 pm

RE: Things you thought of after your home was built (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Awnmyown on 02.28.2014 at 12:31 pm in Building a Home Forum

HUGE one for me?? I had to use pocket doors in a lot of spots because there wasn't room for a single swinging door to open (without making a toilet inaccessible, or a closet door inaccessible or one side of the bed inaccessible). Until I found on pintrest that I could convert a bifold door into a double swinging door, which because it's two mini doors, takes up WAY less space. Did this in the bedroom to the bathroom and LOVE it. Way nicer than a pocket door, very euro-modern feel and more solid feeling than a pocket door! Plus fullsize handles for ease of use. LOVE IT! Though lazy me is happy I'm skinny bc most of the time I only bother to open one door (which is 12" wide lol).

We did our own framing, and I wish I knew how friggen hard a 13:12 roof is to shingle. HELL. Also how expensive manlifts are, when you discover that's the ONLY way to frame your chimney 30' in the air, or the roof overhangs up there...

That you should NEVER let your mudders wash their tools in your sink...the sewer lines plug from the mud and in my case, you end up getting SOAKED in sewage when it backflows into your basement and you get a LOVELY bill for having some guy drill for 6 hours to clear the clog (of solid drywall mud).

FIBERGLASS BALCONIES! No idea, had played with tons of other options that leak. Two coats of fiberglass resin on a fiberglass matt, and BAM, leakproof balcony over living space. Even with the temperature fluctuations and snow. LOVE IT. Really damn expensive, but LOVE IT!

Access ports for HVAC dampers. Had a couple installed, and then when we were all finished the house, realized that a couple dampers needed to be closed bc those rooms got too hot (with the sun in the windows, the airflow, the doors, etc.). Ended up having to cut open the drywall and install them after. REALLY glad we knew where to cut!

How the hell do you change little xenon light bulbs 30' in the air in your livingroom??? Without ruining your floor with scaffolding??!

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clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 03:16 pm

Small things that get forgotten

posted by: Laura12 on 04.11.2012 at 06:01 pm in Building a Home Forum

I keep hearing that most people find that there are small things that they didn't think about until after they finished construction that they wish they would have added into their build, and I was curious if all of you would like to help me to compile a list for all of us to consider during planning!

So far I have
- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
- Solar tubes in areas that don't get natural sunlight
- Prewire security system
- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
- Central Vac with vac pans

Any others to add?

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clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 02:51 pm

RE: Countertop Geology, Part 5: Marble, Quartzite and other Favor (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: Andrea01 on 01.23.2014 at 07:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I'm sad that I will be losing the look of the super white - which will be taken out soon. But I am very excited to have a usable kitchen again and not be so frantic all the time about every little thing that etches and scratches the counters. Here is one of the slabs of Alaska white that we picked out - the pic is kind of bad. (I had asked about the white macaubas - but the samples they had were not as attractive as what I have seen others post and they said that they etch...so now that I have read that true quartzite doesn't etch it must not be that). In any case I need to decide if we should have the alaska white honed or polished. Our current super white is honed and I like the look of it. Anyone ever see Alaska white in a honed finish?

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 02:45 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 02:45 pm

Counter experts, is this a flaw in the stone or in workmanship?

posted by: lcskaisgir on 01.20.2014 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

There is a small section of my counter with this mark:

 photo IMG_8933_zps1095fefd.jpg

What is it?? Could it be removed?

This post was edited by lcskaisgir on Wed, Jan 22, 14 at 7:53

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 02:40 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 02:40 pm

Countertop Geology, Part 5: Marble, Quartzite and other Favorites

posted by: karin_mt on 01.14.2014 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is round five of the Great Rocks Thread!

Please post your rock questions here. I've copied the basic info about quartzite and marble here because this is the most frequent question.

Quartzite and marble are hopelessly (deliberately?) mixed up in the decorative stone industry. My point, aside from just loving rocks, is to help folks learn how to tell the difference between the two so you are not at the mercy of a sales rep when a multi-thousand dollar purchase hangs in the balance.

Quartzite is much harder than marble and will not etch when exposed to acids. You can tell the difference between quartzite and marble by doing the scratch test and the etch test.

Scratch Test
Take a glass bottle or a glass tile with you when you go stone shopping. Find a rough, sharp edge of the stone. Drag the glass over the edge of the stone. Press pretty hard. Try to scratch the glass with the stone.

Quartzite will bite right into the glass and will leave a big scratch mark.
Any feldspar will do the same. (Granites are made mostly of feldspar)

Calcite and dolomite (that's what marble and limestone are made of) will not scratch. In fact you will be able to feel in your hand that the rock won't bite into the glass. It feels slippery, no matter how hard you press.

PS - don't press so hard that you risk breaking the glass in your hand. You shouldn't need to press that hard!

Etch Test
Etching is when the surface of a rock is dissolved from acids like lemon juice, vinegar, wine, etc. It is the primary bummer about using marble in a kitchen. Etching is most noticeable on polished rocks. Etching is not prevented by sealers, no matter what you hear from the sales rep!

Doing the etch test is simple: bring home a sample of the rock and put lemon juice or vinegar on it. Even after a few minutes the results are usually obvious. Etched areas look duller and are discolored compared to the rest of the slab.

Some people get conflicting results with these two tests, but normally anything in the marble family will not scratch glass and it will etch.

Quartzite and rocks in the granite family will scratch glass and will not etch.

For reference, here are links to the other rock threads, in which many types of rocks have been discussed.

Rocks 101: The Lowdown on Super White

Rocks 102: Marble, Quartzite and Other Rocks in the Kitchen

Rocks 103: Countertop Geology: Marble and quartzite and granite, oh my!

Rocks part 4, Marble, Granite, Quartzite

With that, let the rock conversations continue!
-Karin

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 02:36 pm

ceilings options for back porch

posted by: bmh4796 on 08.22.2013 at 09:53 pm in Building a Home Forum

what are some ceiling options for a back porch besides beaded board?

budget friendly suggestions would be appreciated

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 02:34 pm

Reasonably Priced Dishwasher Needed

posted by: blueiris24 on 08.21.2012 at 02:22 pm in Appliances Forum

My 12 year old Kenmore dishwasher died. I am looking for a replacement - it does not need to be high-end, but it does need to be reliable. My main concern is that it has a stainless steel interior - other than that I'm pretty flexible. Has anyone purchased a Samsung? Would love to hear your experiences - hoping to spend under $800 although don't know whether that is reasonable or not. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 03:10 pm

Need help picking low to mid range applainces

posted by: sycore on 09.23.2012 at 05:58 pm in Appliances Forum

Hi,

I am trying to help my sister out that is moving into a home and needs all 4 kitchen appliances. Fridge, Oven, Dishwasher and Microwave. I usually research everything and give her a recommendation. She is on a budget, looking to spend no more than $4000 for Stainless Steel. Trying to research appliances will drive you crazy, as it seems no matter which brand there are problems.
I have never recommend an extended warranty in my life, but I think I will to her to get one for at least the Refrigerator. I don't know why the manufacture can not just have matching good, better, best packages.
Anyway, I have stuck to the budget brands and she likes the looks of the Frigidaire Gallery series, but the many problem with the ice makers and poor quality of Frigidaire budget brands in general, seems to rule it out.
I am left with LG and Samsung. How are Maytag or KitchenAid. Are they just higher end Frigidaires? Any recommendations? She might go with French doors and then just get an ice chest for the garage for her large family. How do they handle fingerprints, another of her pet peeves. Thanks for any info you can supply.

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 02:46 pm

refrigerator shopping - french door, bottom freezer

posted by: jgy2001 on 09.21.2012 at 07:29 pm in Appliances Forum

Shopping for Whirlpool french door style refrigerator, around 22 to 25 cu ft, bottom freezer, no in-door water/ice dispenser. Bisque color. We are in San Jose, California.

Please recommend positive experiences and models?

Is french door middle door jam design weakness, may causes leaks after many years of usage?

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 02:35 pm

all-refrigerator - Electrolux, Kenmore, Frigidaire or Whirlpool?

posted by: lexmomof3 on 01.02.2013 at 08:59 pm in Appliances Forum

I'm so confused! I've been looking at all-frige, all-freezer units that will be placed in separate locations in the kitchen; one at each end of a run of cabinets. We're a family of six so this seems like a good solution for us. Electrolux doesn't seem to have good reviews but isn't Electrolux, Frigidaire and Kenmore make by the same company? Any others I should consider in the same price range? Does Whirlpool make single trim kits since these will be placed separately? I could only find the double trim kit?

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 02:22 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 02:22 pm

RE: refrigerator shopping - french door, bottom freezer (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: grammasc on 09.22.2012 at 02:40 pm in Appliances Forum

We looked at the Whirlpool but bought a Maytag. Check the back of the shelves. The salesman told us people complained that things fell off the back of the shelves in the Whirlpool. The ones we looked at had quite a gap back there and I can see where that would be a major problem. FYI, we bought at HH Gregg. I had done some price comparisons online. When we went there the salesman went online and showed us the prices at several stores and then offered us a price lower than the lowest we found.


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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 02:22 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 02:22 pm

Architects? Really?

posted by: jsfox on 05.07.2013 at 10:46 am in Building a Home Forum

I've browsed off and on here for a couple of years as we near building a new house (we begin design in August, plan to break ground in Sep 2014). Two recent threads really got me to thinking about architects.

Both are houses designed by architects, yet are closer in design level to what is often referred to around here as Builder Plop - houses designed by builders who have no design are architectural training (or skill) and plop something down on paper that they can plop down on a lot.

We built our current house 25 years ago and we've talked to and met dozens of architects over the past couple of years. There are certain design elements that they all adhere to regardless of style, size of structure, and budget.

For example, all understand the relationship of shutters to windows and won't utilize shutters that are not proportioned correctly. If necessary, instead of shutters, they'll design other ornamentation that fits more properly with the style and serves the purpose. One told me "if a house is designed and proportioned correctly, you don't need fake shutters."

That last line was from an architect who specializes in affordable houses and believes that people are much happier in a well-designed and aesthetically pleasing 1200 sq ft house than a poorly designed 2000 sq ft house.

They all also decry fake facades, no matter how well done, and strive to make all sides of every house equally appealing. They pay attention to overall proportion and avoid massive congealed surfaces.

BTW, I'm not a huge believer that an architect or AIA architect is critical as there are many non-architect designers and builders who produce exceptional designs, but generally someone being an architect did provide some level of assurance that the end result would likely be a good design. (FWIW, the person we've chosen to design our new house is not an architect, but has designed many exceptional houses.)

Has the McMansion craze drizzled down and so permeated things that even architects are ignoring design and aesthetics? At one time there was a vast difference in an architect designed house (regardless of style, size, or budget) and builder plop. Is that no longer the case?

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clipped on: 05.20.2013 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 05.20.2013 at 11:52 am

Purchase Leather Furniture

posted by: Wolfpackmom on 02.01.2013 at 09:05 pm in Furniture Forum

I am going to start shopping/looking for leather furniture. Our budget is not top of the line but not cheap either. We have 3 dogs that are on and off the furniture. We do not have any children at home (only when one comes home from college). Sofa and chair/recliner. Any suggestions on brand, type of leather, what questions I should be asking salesman, what I can expect to pay, etc... Any help is greatly appreciated!

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clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 03:35 pm

Best/Top Furniture Brands Based on Quality

posted by: guest123 on 02.11.2009 at 03:54 pm in Furniture Forum

I am in the process of attempting to learn more about the best furniture brands out there. Brands like Maurice Villency, Ethan Allen, Restoration Hardware, Poliform and others come to mind. Let's take a poll: What are the top 10 furniture brands ranked in order with quality the primary factor? ( I probably haven't even mentioned any of them yet.)

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clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 03:06 pm

Help me find a leather recliner,please

posted by: texasman on 04.27.2012 at 02:11 pm in Furniture Forum

I have been driving myself crazy trying to find a leather recliner to replace my broked down Lazyboy.
I have been searching for days and maybe I am being too picky but I want to get what I want.
Features that I want include.
1. brown leather and not bonded leather either.
2. Leggett and Platt mechanism
3. big fluffy arm pads that extend far enough back to that when I recline my arms to not fall in the hole.
4. Made in the good ole USA.

I am not rich and I would like to keep this purchase under $1,000 but I can stretch out a little but not much.
Any advice would be helpful

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clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 02:18 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 02:34 pm

Tall man seeks fabric recliner.

posted by: talldean on 02.23.2009 at 10:06 pm in Furniture Forum

I'm 6'9". I have a 36" inseam, which makes me mostly torso. Every recliner I see for sale leaves my head dangling in the breeze above the headrest, which makes me a sad, sad lounger.

Any suggestions for abnormally tall folks? :-)

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clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 02:19 pm

Barcalounger v Lane v Best or other recliner advice

posted by: sailormass on 03.11.2012 at 12:57 am in Furniture Forum

Hi--I think I've done my homework,and I've read other posts on gardenweb about recliners. I know that the general consensus is that a Hancock Moore or Bradlington Young is the best, and I am sure that they are worth the money.

My problem is that I'm buying a new house and I simply have a very limited budget for the few new pieces of furniture I'm buying. I need to buy something in my price range now, and then I'm hoping when my business picks up again in a few years, I'll be able to buy something higher-quality that will last a long time.

I need to buy two leather recliners. I'm not even mentioning La z boy because, even though I got a pair in the early nineties that lasted forever, I gather their quality has plummeted.

The three recliners I'm now looking at are: Lane's Havana (carried by my local Macy's); Barcalounger's Regency (carried by a reputable local store) and Best's Brodie.

The Lane was very comfortable and offered very good lumbar support. The back cushion went all the way down the seat--no gaps by your tailbone when you recline. Leather quality seemed excellent. Downside: it was obvious that the fabric had been stapled rather carelessly on the bottom and the frame seemed fine, but not fantastic.

The Barcalounger appeared to have excellent padding, nice leather wrapped around the entire chair, great stitching, a down-blend seat. It's in their "vintage reserve" collection, which I think is their premium line. It had a Leggett and Platt mechanism and the back cushions unzipped (I guess so that you could put more stuffing in them if you wanted). The lower back cushion did not quite extend all the way down my back when I reclined (granted, I reclined almost to a sleeping position). The recliner took some force to close.

The Best also had a Leggett and Platt reclining mechanism and seemed to be very well constructed, in terms of stitching, quality of leather, very little plywood and more hard wood in the part of the frame I could see. My local store had it only in the electric motion model, which was great, but I am a bit leery of whether that will go kaput after the one-year warranty on it expires.

The most comfortable, hands-down, was the Best. It's the same price as the lane, but three hundred dollars less than the Barcalounger. I can spring for the extra money for the Barcalounger if you folks think it's worth it.

I did stop by the la z boy store and sat in some very comfortable chairs, but they were quite expensive and I'm leery of spending that money for them if their quality is now so poor.

I should add that Best, Barcalounger and Lane all claim that these recliners are assembled in the USA with some foreign-made parts.

To summarize:

Best--most comfortable and economical, but I know little about the brand and am unsure about the life-span of the electric reclining mechanism.

Lane--good price, comfortable, very stylish.

Barcalounger--excellent padding, all leather, unsure about lumbar support, more expensive.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm not really interested at looking at other brands right now--these are my choices. Thanks!

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clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 02:10 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 02:10 pm

RE: choosing Electrolux model -- quality difference or just featu (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: georgect on 12.14.2012 at 09:32 am in Laundry Room Forum

The next generation of Electrolux washers/dryers are coming out in 2013 to meet the new federal guidelines on energy efficiency.

The Department of Energy’s new standards for clothes washers and dishwashers, under new rules, clothes washers will use up to 35 percent less energy than currently required and dishwashers will use 14 percent less energy and 23 percent less water.

We have no idea how these new guidelines will affect the washers performance. Could be longer wash cycles or they may use more water jets. We just don't know yet how washer manufacturers are going to manage this new standard of water efficiency.

You may want to wait and see what Electrolux comes out with and see their washing performance ranks in a consumer magazine. Then either get one manufactured for 2012's water efficiency or one for 2013.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:16 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:16 pm

RE: Any new front loaders with useful internal heaters? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: johnmk on 01.24.2013 at 02:42 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Hi whirlpool_trainee,

Thank you for the info. I have checked the thread at automaticwasher.org, and appreciated the insight provided there, but decided on a few factors to stick with the LG brand, so I've picked the LG WM3470, which does feature the Allergiene cycle which allegedly reaches 131F without fail. My hope is that this can substitute for the Bright Whites cycle, which if I'm to believe the numbers at washerdryerinfo, Bright Whites only reaches about 105F+/- even when set to Hot. I don't know the temperature of their Hot water line or cold water line, so their numbers are only somewhat helpful but it's a start.

Do you know if Allergiene actually does a good job cleaning? I understand its primary application is in the removal of allergens, but I'm not sure if that role does, or does not, lend itself to general cleaning duties. My guess is that it'll acquit itself decently in this role for lightly soiled items, but given that Pre-Wash isn't allowed as an option in this cycle, one could reasonably guess that LG didn't intend for this to be a true cleaning cycle. As in, maybe they figure if you blow enough hot steam around, you can dislodge easily airborne allergenic particles/mites and kill them in the process and that's what's important for asthmatics and those with significant allergies.

I share the laundry equipment with my grandmother, who has asthma and allergies, so she'll be using this cycle for bedding & whatnot. My use for it might be as a higher-temp substitute for the Bright Whites cycle. If that doesn't pan out then maybe I'll settle for Bright Whites + pre-wash option. I do like me some clean, bright white Whites, but I'm also a fan of Ron Popeil's set-it-and-forget-it simplicity. Eventually I have no doubt I'll figure a solution out.

Another track of investigation I'm looking into is the use of a point-of-use spec thermostatic mixing valve by Honeywell that has a range of 70F-120F. My preliminary plan is feed hot and cold water to the mixing valve, set it to 70F, and feed the resulting cool water to the cold water inlet of the washer. Given that tap cold water temperature in our area (north and west of Seattle) is about 45F this time of year, and maybe 60F in the summer, the effect of the mixing valve will be to seed the hot water line during the initial detergent-dispersing cold water fill of the washer. By the time the washer switches to requesting hot water, the water will actually be hot, because the mixing valve will have used up the cooled-off hot water in the hot water pipes, in its efforts to achieve 70F. I've approximated this process manually and found it effective in raising the temperature of Hot in my current LG WM2250 by an appreciable amount, so it's clear it helps ATC do its job more competently than normal.

Anyway, there we are for now!

-John

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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:14 pm

RE: Any new front loaders with useful internal heaters? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: whirlpool_trainee on 01.20.2013 at 12:13 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Look for a washer with a NSF-Certified Allergen cycle. Whirlpool/Maytag has them as well as Electrolux/Frigidaire. washerdryerinfo.com gives temperatures for each wash cycle (with default setting). Have seen that Samsung DeepSteam cycle seems to hit 140. The Allergene cycles have to reach 130.

Have you checked your thread at aw.org?


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:12 pm

RE: Do HE TL washer really Clean? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: cross_stitch on 11.26.2011 at 01:15 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I have 6 months experience with my new LG WaveForce (WT5001C). There are two things to consider if one is thinking about buying this machine:
1. Think about the model with the onboard heater. My model does not have it and the water is never more than lukewarm. "Hot" has no significance when selecting temperature. This is not a showstopper for me since I am a cold water laundry gal anyway. Consumer Reports convinced me that cold water cleans as well as and sometimes better than hot water.
2. The WaveForce is wonderful to behold -- like a double Horseshoe Falls, but keep in mind it only works in particular situations. According to the footnote on page 14 of the user manual "NOTE: WAVEORCE is available for 8 lb or larger loads in the COTTON/NORMAL or HEAVY DUTY cycles." This means my 2-person household does laundry only once or twice/week to take advantage of this feature. Fine with me, but shoppers should know this in advance of purchasing.

Overall I like the machine. Clothes dry very fast because the spin cycle RPM is so high. However, it is rough. Jeans legs will knot. There is no delicate cycle on this model so I now use a mesh bag for things that could be damaged by the aggressive action.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:07 pm

RE: Do HE TL washer really Clean? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: gates1 on 11.22.2011 at 04:24 pm in Laundry Room Forum

All I can say is my LG HE TL cleans clothes and I do not have a light office job, quite the oposite. I work in a machine shop, jeans and t shirt come home oily, dirty and drungy and my machine takes it all out. I do not use any additive than tide He soap. Whites are snow white too. Im sorry about your experience jungleeplorer, my bet is your wife wont like the FL either when she see's how little water they use. I had a FL for 10 yrs, loved it. I went to the HE TL due to the fact I didnt want to buy pedistals again and my washer is on the right and I I was limited to machines that have a reversible door. I wish the both of you good luck on your new machine

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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:02 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:02 pm

RE: is there a good washer out there??? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: gaken on 02.18.2013 at 11:20 am in Laundry Room Forum

Another Speed Queen owner checking in. We have the front loading washer & dryer.

After two years of using them, I can recommend them because:

1) Quality Products (Very Heavy & Tank like con-
struction.

2) Short washing cycles (50 minutes or less).

3) No repair issues.

4) Clean clothes, not knotted up, coming out the washer.

What's not to like?


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 04:00 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:00 pm

RE: Do HE TL washer really Clean? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jungleexplorer on 11.21.2011 at 12:59 am in Laundry Room Forum

I would like thank all of you for your help. Unfortunately nothing could save this washer from my wife's wrath. After five loads she was so upset that started feeling bad and thought her heart was skipping and got the thesiscope out to check. On the last load (whites), she showed how dingy they looked and showed me visable dirt that was left behind. She then put the whole load into an old washer I keep out in the shed to wash really dirty things like camping bedding, hunting and fishing clothes. The clothes came out sparkling white from the old washer. That was it. She ordered me to take it back. After 25 years of marriage, I know when and when not to take a stand with my wife. When it comes to her washing machine, she gets her way every time.

This washer might work for someone with an office job who's clothes just need a light rinsing. But for people who have dirt jobs or lifestyles, I really don't think you could rely on the any HE Top loading washer to clean your clothes. As I said before, soaking your clothes in soapy water and rinsing them will clean clothes from light use effects like sweat, body oils and dead skin cells. But real dirt requires scrubbing and lots of water. The light swishing that these HE TL waters do, simply doesn't cut it.

I have read countless reviews from others who agree with me. I really could care less about all the hoopla that claims these things can do as good a job as an old style TL washer. When I pay $650 for a washer, I expect it to a better job then the $250 machine it replaced. Gimics, fancy names and high sounding unfounded scientific theory do not impress me. The proof is in the results. The results on my HE washer stunk. It went back to the store. It was funny how the people at the store tried to blame me for the failure of the washer. What all their comments amounted to was, I did not hold my toung just right. One guy actually said that HE washer cannot work if you put any clothes in the middle. He said that I had to stack the clothes around edge of the tub and only washnsmall loads. Yep! I bought a 4.7 Cu washing machine so I could wash two pairs of socks at a time!

I have a FL on order. We will see how it does.

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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 04:00 pm

RE: Miele Washer/Dryer Cheat Sheet? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rococogurl on 02.25.2013 at 09:10 am in Laundry Room Forum

eleena, it's early in my ownership arc and time does change one's perspective. I'm also still getting to know the machine. However, I do have 10 years with the Asko and 2 with the Bosch as benchmarks.

Miele capacity is better than Asko and close or equal to Bosch. It's the quietest washer and the one that gives the user the most control. Despite unuseful names, each cycle provides a variation to make it suitable for a particular load of laundry. Way more cycles and refinements than the other brands -- no comparison on that. I was hoping for a cheat-sheet having been done by someone on all the cycles to be posted -- perhaps it will emerge. I was looking to speed up my learning curve but I can DIM.

I'm super happy with the pair. Both w&d have features the other brands don't. So far, I'm happier with this pair in every aspect. Hopefully time won't change that.

The dryer is as nuanced as the washer. I have a lot of techno clothing with elasticizers and cotton-wool blends. Until now I had to line dry these but this dryer handles them perfectly without overheating. It does an equally good job on my sheets, which are all 100% cotton and were getting cooked in the other dryers.

My delivery and install went perfectly and I'm feeling this was money very well spent. Big gain in terms of quality and ease of use for me.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:58 pm

RE: is there a good washer out there??? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: azmom on 02.03.2013 at 11:08 am in Laundry Room Forum

We purchased a pair of Speed Queen top load washer and dryer during this past Thanksgiving break. So far the experience has been exceeding expectation. They reduce laundry time significantly.

While in Europe, we used various front load machines, the long wash cycles drove us insane. We did not want to pay for a pair of Lamborghini in our laundry room. We also did not have the needs to challenge our scientific aptitude trying to figure out options on some of washers and dryers on the market. We wanted speed, convenience, quality and durability. We picked Speed Queen for the simple design, price point, and track record.

So far we have washed bath room rugs, towels, blanket, jeans, knits, silk tops, sheets, cottons, wools and cashmere sweaters. Everything comes out fresh, clean, dry without much winkles; white is white, color and shape is the same as before each article goes into the washer.

We had concerns about washer's capacity, but so far we don't feel any shortage when comparing our SQ washer to previous washers of larger capacity. I knew SQ washer only provides two speeds and it could be a shortcoming, but after it washed knits, silks, wools, and cashmeres..etc. with "hand wash and delicate cycle" so nicely, I am totally happy without any reservation.

Hot water is of same temperature as from hot water line. When I think warm water is not warm enough for certain items, filling the washer at certain level, I would switch to "HOT" setting. I don't feel the needs of altering water inlets.

Before our purchase, I heard about complaints regarding the water level and watched You Tube. The delivery man said if we altered machines' set up it could result warranty being voided.

But so far I don't feel the needs to change water level set up. Occasionally I wait until washer is filled and then add laundry so that it would bump up the water level somewhat, but now I think maybe it is unnecessary. Everything comes out fresh and clean, why do I need to have more water? I should stop doing that.

The washer is stable, it never "walks" or "shakes" even once as our old machine did. It never lumps clothes in a big tangle mess as our old machine did. We did not change our laundry behaviors, so these positive changes should give credit to Speed Queen.

One thing needs to note is that our SQ washer is not as quiet as our other brand old washer. Is it because the tub is made of stainless steel instead of plastic so that it produces louder echoes and magnified by laundry room tile floor? I don't know. But the sound does not bother us at all especially we always close the door to the laundry room.

The dryer dries fast and has not shrunk any article. Things come out fluffy and wonderful. I like the side opening door that let me shovel dried laundry directly to laundry basket. It is the most quiet dryer we have ever owned.

I never understand some Americans' Anti-Government sentiments. IMO, lots of Americans do not know how good a government they have. In addition, aren’t we the ones who ultimately decide what government we should/could have?


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:55 pm

RE: Do HE TL washer really Clean? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: markb on 11.18.2011 at 04:37 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Yes they can and do get clothes clean; some better than others. They just work differently than the traditional top load washer that you are used to.

I've been using front load washers for the past 26 years because they frankly clean better than traditional top load washers( in my experience ). Since I have a fairly large laundry room and am somewhat laundry obsessed, I began purchasing HE top loaders as they were introduced to compare them with the frontloaders I was using and loved.

I've had everything that's been available starting with the "Calypso", then the GE Harmony, Maytag Neptune TL,and the Kenmore Oasis. I didn't like any of these machines primarily due to poor cleaning and/or excessive wrinkling. I had almost given up on an HE top load machine when the LG Waveforce came out. The reviews were quite good so I "bit the bullet" this past July and bought the model with the heater. It does everything it's advertised to do. Huge capacity, clean clothes and minimal wrinkles.

It actually cleans as well as my AEG lavamat. So well in fact that I just sold the AEG to my Yardman.

I can't speak about the Samsung as I have not used that model but it looks similar to the LG's. The best advice I can give is read and reread your owners manual and follow it exactly.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:51 pm

RE: is there a good washer out there??? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: whirlpool_trainee on 02.02.2013 at 07:45 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Speed Queens fill 1/3 hot and 2/3 cold for a warm wash as the inlet valves have differently sized openings. On a hot cycle, only hot water will go in, as I understand, but it'll take a while due to the reduced size of the hot inlet valve. There is a workaround for that (either get a different valve of drill a larger hole into the existing one).

The fill can be raised to all the way up. Here's a YT video for that procedure.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://youtu.be/qBHO1bPnlUU


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:48 pm

RE: Need a top load washing machine!!! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Autumn.4 on 11.27.2012 at 04:47 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Uh oh. I just bought the TL Fisher and Paykel echo smart washer and gas dryer (fl not top load for the dryer). I was ***REALLY*** tempted to just get the speed queen but figured we were going to end up with HE eventually so we just took the plunge but still didn't give up the agitator. I did wash all day yesterday, jeans, colors, whites, blankets....so far so good (day 1 I know). I was surprised how little water it used and I left it on the auto water fill for the first trial runs. Everything came out soft (no softener) and looks and smells clean. I did use the warm wash as that is the machines automatic choice for the cycle's I chose, water felt warm to me and I could see some steam. I haven't tried a HOT wash yet. Cycle times were great - if you want I can give them to you - they lay them out in the manual and what I think is really nice is if you have something that is not really dirty but needs a quick wash you can do a short wash cycle - I think it's like 15 minutes (don't quote me). That will be handy at times I'm sure.

What is really ridiculous is that since the last set we bought in 1998 - choosing a washer and dryer really feels like it IS nearly rocket science. Give me something that will wash my clothes reliably and not have a gagillion rules or gadgets I don't need and I'm happy. $250 for a pedestal is absurd.

My sil has had her F&P set for about 6 years now with no complaints so we used that as a first hand review even though of course by now the models are different. I haven't found anyone that I know in real life that *loves* their front load - not that they hate it but more of a well, when the time comes we may or may not buy another FL.

This has turned out to be one of the most difficult decisions we've made in a while in the way of we bought a pair but we weren't really set on any one brand or type due to all of the differences (fl, tl, he, no he, agitator, no agitator, I give up) and reviews. In fact at the store when we finally made a decision it was quite lackluster. I figured it was as good as any, didn't feel great about it didn't feel bad about it. It's hard to get excited about a washer and dryer anyhow. It was $1,300 for the pair.

jdenyer-very informative and I didn't feel it was one sided toward either. I am hoping the basic warm wash will be enough to keep mold away and we don't have an on board heater. I rarely use hot but will - machine recommends a perm press cycle every 5th load whether you put clothes in it or not, with detergent of course.

Good luck irisjjs! I feel like it's a crap shoot myself and only time will tell how we did!


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RE: Speed Queen Washing Machine (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bestf100 on 04.22.2012 at 10:18 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I think the word of mouth secret is out. Speed Queen's simplified electronics (lack of a fancy, potential troublesome, computer board) + commercial quality in home usage was the deciding factor in my purchase.

I bought the Speed Queen front loader + matching dryer 6 months ago. I should be still running this pair 10 years from now. A 45 minute wash cycle (tops) and I am done. Our clothes come out as clean as you would want since; A) the washer does not skimp on water like many others and B) the front loader has a true horizontal axis, not a tilted axis drum.

Enjoy your purchase stayhomemom.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:30 pm

RE: Need a top load washing machine!!! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gr8day on 11.27.2012 at 08:23 am in Laundry Room Forum

after I got rid of the awful HE TL I got a FL set and at first I was so relieved and so happy with them because they cleaned sooo much better. But now I am just worn out with it, too. It takes up to two and a half hours to do a load on stain wash and well over an hour on regular, nearly two hours with extra rinse. I am weary of wiping it out after each use and of taking the dispenser drawer out and cleaning it and worrying about cleaning the machine itself every few weeks with a separate wash that seems to negate the water savings. I don't like keeping the door cracked and open and worrying about mold, getting on the floor to empty washer since I don't have room for or want the pedestals. I am ready to go back to a very unglamorous old school agitator machine. I am sorry I sold my original set that was fine but was 18 years old and just getting a little tired but still worked better than either of these two replacements I have invested in to my own disappointment.

The only thing is, I am hearing that the new agitator machines do not put in enough water either so it might not even be possible to get a good washing machine anymore, at least one that some of a certain age remember as being good and who remember the Maytag man really was lonely! Recently I realized that I dread doing laundry!! I don't mean to offend anyone who loves their machine it's just that this is my own personal experience.


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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:19 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:19 pm

Recomendations on washing machine with internal heater

posted by: monika78 on 11.13.2012 at 10:31 am in Laundry Room Forum

Hello

I need to buy washing machine and dryer. I really want one with heater.
I have read many many posts on this forum and I learn a lot. But still need some help. I found a pair on creiglist Bosch Nexxt 500 Series Front Load Washer & Dryer with Pedestals. Model# WFMC330SUC for 1200$
Would you still buy Bosch even dough they are not made anymore? How long will they have parts for them? I understand that internal heater on this model kicks in on most of the cycles
Xxtra sanitary 170F (77C)
Temp boost 150F(66C) on regural and cotton
Hot 125F(52C)
Warm 95F (35C)
cold 60F(15C)

Or should I forget Bosch and buy something new with Sanitary cycle, and have at least one good cycle with decent temp for whites.
If thats the case which washer would you recomed LG! Samsung
I am so confused, please help me!!!

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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 03:17 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:17 pm

Please help me find a simple sturdy washing machine

posted by: sarakay on 07.20.2012 at 03:55 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Yesterday my Maytag washer, which I think is 8-10 years old, CAUGHT ON FIRE while I was doing a small load. Luckily, I was home at the time. I'll never leave the house while washing again.

So I am in the market for a new machine and am doing a little preliminary research before hitting the stores. Would a kind soul or two here point me in the right direction?

My requirements are minimal, usually 2-3 loads a week.
- one in hot water for towels, socks etc.
- one in cold water for light items - sheets, blouses etc.
- one in cold water for dark clothing.

No diapers, and greasy or muddy items are very infrequent. The local laundromat will do big items like blankets or comforters.

That's it. Am a little intimidated by the descriptions of new washing machines. I don't need a ton of cycles or settings. Basically, I just want to dump the detergent and clothes in the washer and have them come out clean.

Simple is better. Anything beyond on/off, hot/cold and normal/delicate is probably unnecessary for me. Another must is build quality. Seeing smoke stream out from under the old washer's lid was pretty unsettling.

I think an old fashioned top loader would be the right fit but you folks are the experts.

My very preliminary research has turned up the entry level Speed Queen as a candidate. Any other recommendations, especially those that would be a bit less pricey, would be greatly appreciated.

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clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 03:02 pm

RE: Surveytime! Where do you buy your plants online? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 11.23.2008 at 08:44 am in Fragrant Plants Forum

Let's see.. www.accentsforhomeandgarden.com
www.worldplants.com
www.almostedenplants.com
A few growers on Ebay.

Citrus come from 2 nureries in Fl, but since the ban is over, can't order more.

In the 90's, I was a regular Logee's Customer. Between 1999-2001 prices went up and pot/plant sizes down. I still have some of their plants bought in the mid-90's, but the later plants died. One citrus, a 2-4" seedling, died that week. Perhaps, those of you lucky enough to drive to their green house, I'd bet you'd find beautiful plants.

There are a few succulent nurseries I order from too, but don't know if anyone here is intereted in sux..Toni


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:32 pm

RE: Where do you get yours? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 03.04.2011 at 03:02 pm in House Plants Forum

Are you looking for tropical, succulents, or both?

A few places I shop.

Accentsforhomeandgarden

Almostedenplants

Ebay

Hirts

Absolutely Cactus

Mistletoe Cactus

TCterrariums

Shoal Creek Succulents

Jadepoint

Thistledown

Hope these help..Toni


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:17 pm

Propagate your Staghorn (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: Karina_Houston on 10.02.2005 at 06:40 pm in Favorites Forum

Hi all,

Here's some info how to propagate your staghorn:

To propagate your "Staghorn" take a sharp kitchen knife and cut out the young plants leaving about a 2" circle of moss on each pup. Fill the hole in the mother plant with new moss. Pot the pups in a moss based soil or mount them on a board. Board mounting is easy. Find a piece of wood you like. Hammer in about 10 roofing nails in a 12" circle. Fill the circle with 2" of long fibered sphagnum moss. Plant a pup or two in the moss. Tie a length of waxed or nylon string to one of the nails and just wind the string back and forth around the nails, creating a "spider web" fastening the plant to the board.

I'm in Houston and I just found one a month ago and I just can't take my eyes of it. Staghorn is native from Java, Indonesia and Australia - so it's just remind me of my childhood! Beautiful fern!!!

HEre are some usefull links:
http://www.mgonline.com/stag.html
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith/tips/house/staghornFern.html

Hope it helps.
Karina

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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:11 pm

RE: Ferns - Staghorn (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: tdun on 05.06.2002 at 03:10 am in Favorites Forum

You would definately want to use a wire basket although a plastic wicker basket would certainly be a novel look and the entire basket should be filled with long grain spagnum moss. This moss is the kind that looks like seaweed, not the milled spagnum that is much finer. To attach the fern to the basket, I would recommend cutting a hole in the wire and hanging the fern out the side.
That said, I would recommend that rather than using a basket, I would use a log with the bark removed, such as you might find in your fireplace. Simply set the staghorn on a bed of the moss and wrap the whole mess up with nylon fishing line. To water just dunk it in a bucket.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:09 pm

RE: Staghorn fern advice (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: adnissi on 11.16.2006 at 12:38 pm in Tropicals Forum

Years ago we had a staghorn about that large. When we moved from Ft. Lauderdale to Clearwater, it went in the moving van, too--they put a bar across the end of the van just inside the back door and hung it from that bar! Worked really well.

If you put the pups into a basket lined with coconut fiber, tree bark, etc., and suspend it in a tree, it will form a solid ball, which will get bigger and bigger over the years--just like the one on the tree. As it grows, you will have to change the hanging system, of course. When the hanger on ours broke, we ended up putting chain around the ball and just hanging it back up. When you hang any plant from a tree branch, be sure to use a length of dead water hose or some such thing over the tree branch for the chain or wire to sit on so that it will not cut into the branch and kill it.

Once the staghorn forms a ball, it will be (and stay) open at the top. The leaves and stuff that fall into it are what feeds the staghorn, and they collect water much as bromeliads do.

Since we are headed into winter, on those occasions when there is a freeze, drape a blanket or sheet around it (or any other plant) and use safety pins or clothes pins (the pinchy ones with springs in them) to hold it closed, then put a lamp--without its shade--underneath it. Position the lamp so it is close to the plant but not touching it at all or you will burn the plant and may end up with a fire hazard. Also, be sure to situation the lamp, block it in or something, so the wind will not be able to tip it over.

Any time you cover a plant to protect it from freezing, DO NOT use clear plastic!!! It will do more harm than good. Use sheets, blankets, towels, that sort of thing. Also, make sure what you use for cover touches the ground all the way around--the point is to hold in the ground heat, not allow it to dissipate around the edges of the cover. If, as with the staghorn, you are putting a lamp under it, it is not desirable for it to touch the ground--the cover will hold in the heat. But do be careful to leave a wee bit of open space at the top to allow the accumulated heat to dissipate a little, so it doesn't cook the plant!)

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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:08 pm

RE: Staghorn fern advice (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: rite2u on 11.14.2006 at 08:13 pm in Tropicals Forum

I meant to post a follow-up a few weeks ago. I went over and took 3 cuttings off the fern. First of all, I started out using a kitchen knife (as was suggested), but made little headway in carving. Over the years, the fern had built up layers of under padding that were nearly 7 inches thick (thicker in some places). So I got a machete and first carved down through the layers and then up along the bark of the tree. The pieces that I carved were maybe 2 feet long by 1.5 feet in length at the base (but fanning out wider along the top because of the 3-foot long staghorn leaves). Some were small enough to fit into those moss wire baskets so I now have one hanging on my front porch (that wont be its final locationIm still debating that).

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Ebb, Ill be glad to carve out a piece for you. What size would you like? There are a few small pups (6 by 6 inches or less) growing on it. That would be manageable for mailing. The larger mats will require a larger box.
Here's one of the small pups.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Also, depending on where you put it (I assume you have a greenhouse in zone 7) it may not like your chilly winters.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:07 pm

RE: Staghorn fern advice (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: hotdiggetydam on 10.30.2006 at 08:07 am in Tropicals Forum

only way I know to propagate your "Staghorn" take a sharp kitchen knife and cut out the young plants leaving about a 2" circle of moss on each pup. Fill the hole in the mother plant with new moss. Pot the pups in a moss based soil or mount them on a board. Board mounting is easy. Find a piece of wood you like. Hammer in about 10 roofing nails in a 12" circle. Fill the circle with 2" of long fibered sphagnum moss. Plant a pup or two in the moss. Tie a length of waxed or nylon string to one of the nails and just wind the string back and forth around the nails, creating a "spider web" fastening the plant to the board. I dont think you could move the whole plant without cutting down the tree.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:05 pm

Repotting Staghorn

posted by: RootDiggerNC on 07.27.2005 at 08:48 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

Not sure where to post this. Tried tropicals and no response so far.

I bought a Staghorn - Platycerium bifurcatum a few months ago in a 6" POT. It's been healthy, putting out new growth pretty steady. It has an older shield which is fading, a current one and a new one abt 2 to 3 inches diameter,... and 12 leaves. I am trying to mount it onto one of those little crate looking things. Have all my supplies together to do it, but when I took it out of the pot it has a huge and very dense mass of roots. I tried soaking it to remove as much of the medium as possible. Looks like mostly peat and perlite. After removing well over half of the medium and roots it's still a good sized clump. By the time I put the new medium of spaghum and coco hull on the crate board it looks to me like it's just too big, sticking out too far. Should I remove more of the roots? I am concerned about taking too much more off and maybe shocking the plant. Maybe it's just too big for a board type situation with the root base being as large as it is? I do have a wire basket but it's pretty large. Any suggestions? Thanks!

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RE: Repotting Staghorn (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nospice on 08.05.2005 at 05:59 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

billhiggs i only use sphagnum moss it works the best. all they need is water and filtered light and a little fertilizer every now and then


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:03 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:03 pm

RE: Staghorns and Elkhorns (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tropicbreezent on 08.15.2012 at 09:49 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

Elkhorn, Platycerium bifurcatum


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:02 pm

RE: Staghorns and Elkhorns (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tropicbreezent on 08.15.2012 at 09:50 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

Staghorn, Platycerium superbum, is always a single plant. The rhizome doesn't branch to produce new plants. Propagation is by spores only.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:02 pm

RE: Repotting Staghorn (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: grits10 on 08.06.2005 at 07:41 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

nospice...are you cutting the 'mother' plant? or taking off the pups that form ? Just curious. I never tried cutting the big one.

Rootdigger...I have a huge one that is about 15 years old. it is just too big to mount on a board. it's in a wire basket and puts out 'pups' I separate these as they get two or three leaves and a decent shield; and put those on the boards or cork or driftwood, or whatever. Sounds like your plant has a big root mass and you might throw it into shock if you try cutting away too much. I too make or buy wire baskets or cages, though i do mix some soil in with peat, put the root mound on and slightly into that and then mount on the driftwood or board, (or in the case of the big one) into a sphagnum lined (NOT Coco matting) basket. Fishing line works great just like nospice said or mounting.

billhigs....They love air circulation. Make sure you are allowing it to breath. We usually soak ours well a couple of times a week and let it drain and dry (but not parch). And don't over fertilize. Just a weak soak once in a while.

good luck.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:01 pm

RE: Ferns - Staghorn (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Tom - 7-MD (Guest) on Wednesday, August 27, 1997 at 21:44 in Favorites Forum

I grow a fairly large staghorn indoors all year round. I keep it in a fairly well-lit room that I grow orchids in. It does very well inside. I mist it every day and drench it once a week with 1/4 strength mix of a balanced fertilizer. I also keep a ceiling fan operating 24 hours a day-I never turn it off.


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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 12:00 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 12:00 pm

Intelligent Design Ideas

posted by: arsenalfan on 03.13.2012 at 10:13 am in Building a Home Forum

First GW Post! We are building a new old farmhouse design, and I greatly appreciate the crowd-sourced wisdom and experience shared here.

As we finish the design phase, I want to be sure we've considered all the neat home features out there. I think about buying our last car which came with keyless entry - we thought it was unnecessary, but wife now finds it essential.

Like that (or an Apple product) I want our home to be full of "wow, someone thought about this" concepts, that are helpful. Emphasis on thoughtful, not neccesarily techy.

I've read the excellent recent discussion that had 7-8 links to "what you can't live without" and "big mistakes" and "2 yrs later - what would you do different/same", and am going more for the 1-2 things that reflect design thought and make their houses a home.

I'll go first, knock out the low-hanging fruit, and show what I'm thinking about:

1. Big Mudroom - everyone's opinion is different, but it will be off garage, have lockers, next to laundry, half bath. Yet to find a shoe storage option I like (hold 8 pairs per person, wife has boots, want them paired up and not in a basket, but also not staring at a wall of shoes.

2. Unique kitchen cabinetry: The list here could be huge and is very personal. Beyond spice racks/appliance garages/all lower cabinetry being drawers, we like: built-in towel holder to free up counter space; kitchen aid mixer stand mixer storage mechanism that brings it up (although we expect to take mixer off this, as using the mixer on high makes a vibrating racket on the mechanism); pots/pans slide-out drawers under our gas range-top (wife doesn't like hanging pots). Please share any novel kitchen storage ideas!

3. Counter-weighted pocket doors - pull right door open and left door opens the same amount as well. When we saw these in our builder's home, it was great - a not-obvious feature that, when you use it, immediately implies quality workmanship.

4. Shower ceiling light with built-in fan - looks great to hide fan entry; hopefully they work as well. And fan timer.

5. Closet door-jamb light switches. Clearly a "someone thought about this" feature. Didn't know about these until we saw them in a new home.

6. Kitchen island 5" mini-wall to hide kitchen mess. We have a 7'x13' island with farmhouse sink on one side and 6 stools on the other, and wanted to hide sink clutter. A 2-level island wasn't for us. So 6" beyond the sink we're putting up a 4" wide and 6" tall mini-wall that will run about 6 feet. Good ledge for flower vases and whatnot, can still talk to folks on stools, they have to crane to see what's in sink.

7. Master Bed Room switch to control the outdoor floods. Weird noise outside? Flip all the floods on.

8. Instant hot water. Ok, I cheated and this is techy, not so much design and more "what can't you live without." But an example of something we never thought we'd need until our current home came with it - now we love it as we're french press coffee/tea people.

9. Outdoor holiday light outlets. No more extension cords thru the garage/storm windows!

10. Outdoor grilling area gas and electric outlets - ok, I know, this is very basic and no-duh.

Cool but not for us:
1. Central vac with hide-a-hose and vacuum pans.
2. The lighting systems that have different schemes that let you light up different paths/turn everything off, etc.

Your turn, and thanks in advance!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 02:18 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 02:19 pm