Clippings by bossjim1

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RE: Share your Texas Garden Blog (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: vanillalotus on 03.01.2008 at 09:01 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

denisew. It is easy to start a blog and there are many great sites that you can make one for free. Blogger and Wordpress are the most popular. I have blogger and I feel that it is easier to set up and customize for those that are beginners. All you do is set up an account and then there will be easy step my steps on customizing your layout and such. Really simple and free!

Here is a link that might be useful: Blogger


clipped on: 12.06.2010 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2010 at 02:50 pm

My Homemade Hosta Markers

posted by: franknjim on 06.01.2010 at 04:47 pm in Hosta Forum

I had been wanting to have some halfway decent markers. I have used vinyl mini blinds and vertical blinds for years and have used zinc markers. Working with the budget of $0.00 I came up with a plan using things I have around the house.

A 23" x 32" piece of " acrylic from a display case, coat hangers and a label printer. These could be made perfectly if a person took their time and used a router table to clean up the saw marks on the edges. Edges can be heat polished to appear clear again.

I took pics while making them and thought I would share.

The tools, labels printed and piece of acrylic

Eight 2" wide strips cut and a little left over. I have more ideas for different designs.

I used electrical tape to bind the 8 strips together for cutting.

After the first two cuts.

After a few more cuts.

After cleaning up chunky edges.

A little jig to hold the stacks of 8 for drilling.

After drilling. I broke two that were on the bottom.

They had to be gently tapped apart. 110 good ones, 2 broken.

How I cut the hangers. The top two for tall plant markers and the bottom for short markers.

Trying them on for size.

I used the white hangers because I had the most of them. I dont like them and already have a new idea for better holders that will add style.

I am thinking about using 8 gauge bare copper wire as the holders with 12 or 10 gauge bare copper wire soldered to and vined up the holder. Cut small leaves from sheet copper and soldered onto the wires. Applying a patina used in stained glass would turn it instantly dark or time will give it a patina.

Something like this.


clipped on: 06.01.2010 at 06:59 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2010 at 07:00 pm

RE: Are your daylilies blooming? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jardineratx on 07.14.2009 at 03:44 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

When you say that your daylilies are no longer blooming, are you talking about repeat blooming varieties. A great deal of daylilies do not repeat, regardless of temps, water, etc. If your repeat bloomers are not blooming, however, it may be due to the heat and/or drought. I have several blooming now--Forbidden Dream, Ida's Magic, Seeing Red,Yellow Landscape Supreme, as well as several other NOID daylilies. My once-bloomers, however, are through with their bloom cycles. If you know the names of your daylilies, you can find information on this website:


clipped on: 07.14.2009 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2009 at 05:17 pm

RE: Rangoon creeper (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: georgez5il on 11.15.2007 at 05:36 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

Soak seed in water for 12 hours THEN.... lightly cover the seed soil temp 65-75F


clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 09:19 pm

RE: Pop-up and advertising anyone else? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: retina_IIIS on 12.31.2005 at 09:39 pm in Arizona Gardening Forum

Once and for all: How to stop the iVillage ad onslaught.

First we need to understand how it's done: iVillage doesn't bother to try and buy ads directly from all the various companies that show up on the pages of GW. Instead they use large ad-service agencies like doubleclick, akamai and pointroll. You can visit some of these sites if you'd like to see who's behind the ads.

This makes it easy to block out all or almost all of the ads very easily, just block the originating sites. Right now all the ads on GW come from:

The Universal Solution.

This will work on Windows systems for all browsers; IE, FireFox and Netscape. This is the best way to remove the ads from GW and not effect other internet sites.

The Windows operating system provides a system-level method to block specific IP addresses before they even get to the browser. To effect this solution you need to edit a Windows system file called hosts. This file is located in the directory:

Windows 98: C:\WINDOWS

Open the file in Notepad. Cut the following from this post and paste it to the end of the file.

Edit each entry so that there is a tab between the IP address and the URLs. Save the file and you're finished. Close and re-open your browser and all the ads will be gone.

Unfortunately, iVillage may in the future buy ads from a new source. In this event the new ad source will have to be added to the list.

The IE solution.

Most of the ads are placed using Java$cript. You can remove the more offensive ads in IE with the browser settings. You can't however remove them all. To improve GW using IE do the following:

From the menu select Tools -> Internet Options -> Security and click on Custom Level. Scroll down to the end of the list and you'll see an entry for Scripting. Disable all the sub-entries. Now select the tab labeled Privacy. In the bottom of the box that appears check on the option to block pop-ups. I recommend you also click on the button Advanced and select the option to block Third-party Cookies.

NOTE: By disabling Scripting you will also effect the way other websites behave -- other sites may not function at all! You may need to get used to switching scripting on and off as desired. That's why this is the least desirable of these various options.

The FireFox solution

This is an excellent choice -- it's the fastest performing of the options listed here: FireFox is superior to IE in every possible way. FireFox provides the added advantage of blocking all Spyware, an evil that IE brought into this world.

* download and install Firefox 1.5
* in the FireFox address bar type about:config
* scroll down the list to the entry xpinstall.enabled
* right click on the entry and select toggle from the menu
* toggle as needed to set the value to true
* go to the Firefox website and follow links to extensions
* find the extension adblock and install it
* remember to toggle xpinstall.enabled back to false
* in Firefox select Tools -> Adblock -> Preferences
* use the New Filter field to add the following items:
* enable Adblock

The trick with Adblock is to block the domain rather than the specific ad. If you click on Adblock to disable an ad. Select Tools -> Adblock -> Preferences from the menu and then edit the new entry; remove anything that follows after .com or .net. This will block everyting from that source.

The Netscape solution.

With Netscape you can shut down all the iVillage ads using the browser preference settings. From the menu select:

Edit -> Preferences -> Privacy and Security -> Cookies
Allow cookies for the originating website only

Edit -> Preferences -> Privacy and Security -> Images
Accept Images that come from the originating server only

Edit -> Preferences -> Privacy and Security -> Images
Block unrequested popup windows -- turn this on

Edit -> Preferences -> Advanced
Enable native object scripting -- turn this off

Edit -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Scripts & Plug-ins
Enable Java$cript for Navigator -- turn this off

NOTE: GW will now be ad free, however disabling Java$cript will effect how other websites behave. You may have to get used to switching this setting back and forth. Therefore I suggest the Universal option above is more appropriate.

NOTE: You MAC users out there: Sorry I don't have more info for you except to say that FireFox and adblock are available for the MAC.

There's no sense in further complaing, iVillage IS an ad. We need to let them be who they are and stop them on our end. Take care all.


clipped on: 01.14.2008 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 01.14.2008 at 08:30 am

It's August and time for the 'toothpick' technique

posted by: nandina on 08.23.2006 at 01:13 pm in Plant Propagation Forum

I have not posted this propagation method in several years. Time for a repeat. Just a reminder that all cuttings need to callus before they will root. This method allows the callusing to take place on the mother plant before the cutting is removed and is most helpful for those hard to root trees/shrubs. Plan to use the toothpick technique during the last weeks of August up until mid-September. This is a little known process and when I first posted it a number of growers contacted me, pleased to know about it as it requires no misting systems, etc.

A very sharp, small penknife or Exacto knife.
A small block of wood (to prevent cutting fingers!)
Some colored yarns or tape for marking purposes.

1. Select the stem from which you wish to take a cutting. Look along it until you locate a bud ON LAST YEAR'S GROWTH.

2. Place the block of wood behind that point and make a single VERTICAL cut all the way through the stem, just below the bud.

3. Insert a toopick through the cut.

4. Mark each cutting with colored yarn/tape so that you can locate it at a later date.

5. Walk away from your toothpick cuttings until the end of October or November. Leave them alone!

You will note that a callus has formed where you wounded the cutting and inserted a toothpick. With sharp pruning shears remove the cutting just below the toothpick. Trim off the toothpick on either side of the cutting.

7. Dip your cuttings in rooting hormone and set them in a cold frame. Water well and close up the frame for the winter. Water as needed. If you do not have a cold frame, set the cuttings right next to your house foundation on the east or north side. Lean an old window or glass pane up against the foundation to protect them.

8. Rooting should take place by mid-spring. Those with greenhouses can leave the cuttings on the mother plant into December/January before setting them to root. Commercial propagators will find this useful.

This method requires a bit of practice but works well. In August/September select the stem to be used as a cutting. Locate last year's growth on the stem and grasp it between thumb and forefinger. Snap the stem lightly until it breaks in half. Leave it hanging on the plant where it will callus. Then follow instructions above for setting cuttings. Snip the cutting off, when callused, at the wounded part. This is a useful technique for azaleas and many woody shrubs and Japanese maples.

Hopefully I have explained this method so it is understood. Reading it over a few times may be necessary.


clipped on: 08.03.2007 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 08.03.2007 at 08:50 am

RE: insecticide and fungicide recipe (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dancingnancy55 on 05.20.2007 at 01:05 pm in Roses Forum

There's a company called Witherspoon Roses which is in Durham, NC that has a website on which the post a recipe for an all-in-one spray that they use. I haven't tried it, but they're a reputable grower, so it's probably good stuff.
1 gallon Water
5 tsp Captan 50%
2 1/2 tsp Halt (Fertiloam brand)
1 1/2 tsp Acephate / Orthene
1/2 tsp Spreader STicker
*4 tsp of liquid Sevin may be used in place of Orthene during prevalence of Japanese Beetles

Here is a link that might be useful: Witherspoon Rose Spray


clipped on: 07.13.2007 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2007 at 01:15 pm

Weldon's Famous Crackers!

posted by: bo_berrin on 04.17.2007 at 02:21 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

We ate so good at the plant swap! Thanks to everybody who brought and cooked the food! Ruben and Barefoot, that cookout made our day, and Melvalena, your hot drinks were *just* the thing we needed to warm up inside, and the talk of the swap was Weldon's yummy crackers! Everybody wanted his recipe, so I got it and he said I could post it.

Weldon's recipe:

1 Box Unsalted "Saltine" Crackers
3/4 cup Oil
1 package Hidden Valley Ranch Dressing (dry mix)
1-2 tsp Cayenne Pepper

Mix oil, dressing, and pepper in large bowl. Toss crackers in mixture and enjoy!

He served these with cheeses and black olives, and they were so delicious with just the right "kick"! (Weldon, if I made any mistakes here, please revise.)


clipped on: 04.17.2007 at 05:49 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2007 at 05:49 pm

important facts about your neighborhood

posted by: janet_w on 03.25.2007 at 12:43 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

Everyone is familiar with Garden watchdog a site we use often to help aid us in plant buying.

Here is a different kind of site called Family watchdog

This is a free site that tracks sex offenders in your area. I put in my address and found there are 12 sex offenders that are in my area with the closest one being 2.69 miles from my home. Family watchdog shows a pic of the sex offender their address and other details about this person like alias names, convictions, and criminal history. You can also sign up for free email alerts to be notified when a sex offender moves to your area.

Know more about your area and what's in it.

Another free site The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's has a tool that allows visitors to search a community by ZIP code for environmental facts about the area, including pollution statistics, the location of hazardous-waste sites and information about the area's watershed.

Another free site U.S. Census Bureau's for statistics about an area's demographics; the bureau breaks down the information easily, by city and county.



clipped on: 03.25.2007 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2007 at 01:41 pm

RE: Multisided Object (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: poohbear2767 on 12.30.2006 at 12:34 am in Woodworking Forum

Ooops. I doubled when I should have halved.
Ok, try again.
180 degrees divided by number of sides.

A square box has 4 sides. 180/4 = 45
An octagon has 8 sides 180/8 = 22.5

Pooh Bear (aka Fluff For Brains)


clipped on: 03.19.2007 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2007 at 10:51 pm

Daylight Saving Time weeks earlier

posted by: jolanaweb on 02.25.2007 at 11:14 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

Spring forward March 11 - Fall back November 4

Potential computer problems

Here is a link that might be useful: solution page


clipped on: 02.27.2007 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2007 at 12:30 pm

Weeding makes my heart swell up !

posted by: bossjim1 on 03.09.2006 at 11:55 am in Texas Gardening Forum

Fellow gardeners, I have recently discovered that weeding makes my heart swell up. Impossible you say? Well, let me explain. We have a granddaughter named Haley who recently turned 5 years old. Her mom and dad are divorced. Her dad, our son, is in the army, and we have a great relationship with her mom, so she gets to spend a lot of time with us. She loves to help Papa work in the garden. Last month her dad was here for her 5th birthday and on a Saturday morning, when they went out to the swingset, I wondered off to the side yard and started weeding a bed. I like to give them time alone when he is here. Before long they came around to where I was and Haley instantly squatted down and started helping me weed. Her dad watched for a while then he started to weed also. She looked at him and said "Dad, you have to pull them slow so you get the roots." I felt a slight swelling inside my chest. He grined at her then started trying to pull weeds again. Before long he was again snapping them of at the ground. When she noticed, she stood up, put her hands on her hips, and said " Daddy! If you don't do it right, me and my Papa will just have to do it all over again !" That's when I first noticed that weeding makes my heart swell up! Ever since. anytime I weed, I remember that and happens all over again, but somehow, weeding is no longer the chore it used to be.


clipped on: 02.17.2007 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2007 at 09:28 pm

RE: One way to check if plants will grow here (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: jessiep on 01.27.2007 at 05:20 pm in Gulf Coast Gardening Forum

I have a old bulb book by Sally McQueen from 1979 and it still works for me.She remarried and her name is Squires now I think.It is a guide to growing bulbs in Houston.The ones I grow are:Achimenes,Agapanthus,Alstromeria,Amaryllis,Bletilla,Caladium,Calla,Canna,clivia,Glorriosa,Habranthus,Haemanthus,Day lillies,Hosta,Lycoris,oxalis,rainlillies 3 colors pink,White and yellow.I grow achimenes out in the yard as a ground cover in the shade.They multiply amd return every year.Good luck on your bulbs.Jessie


Bulbs that do well in Houston!
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 09:11 am    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 09:12 am

Seed Identification

posted by: heathen1 on 01.16.2007 at 09:57 pm in Name That Plant Forum

here's a list of common plant seeds and their pics

Here is a link that might be useful: seed id


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:58 pm

Easy - How to Root Softwood Cuttings

posted by: jimmyjojo on 12.01.2006 at 11:15 am in Plant Propagation Forum

How to Propagate Plants by Softwood Cutting

Ive have had a lot of success rooting softwood cuttings of plants that dont produce much or any seed. This is my humble process.

Ive tried this method on a number of different plant species including tropical houseplants. On some it works great and others not so good or not at all. The fun part is experimenting!

The basic idea is to keep the stem of the cutting alive until a callous and roots can form. This is called asexual propagation (a means without) or cloning, as apposed to sexual propagation which is by seed. And "softwood" means this years growth that hasnt toughened to hard or semi-hardwood yet.

There are many methods and types of equipment you can use. However, this is the method I use and its currently working well for my plant needs.

Points to keep in mind before you start:

1) Use a sharp knife or pruning shears. Ones that wont crush the end the roots will be generated from. A clean cut will preserve the cells close to the surface.

2) Clean your knife or shears with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol or water and bleach (10:1), before you start to make cuttings. Fungus and bacteria can rot a cutting before it has a chance to form roots.

3) Its best to take cuttings during a time of year when the plant is in full growth mode, usually early to mid-summer. Actually any time of year other than full dormancy is OK, but the more vigorous its growing at the time of cutting the higher percentage of success youll have. Again experiment, some plants will root fine from late September cuttings kept under grow lights.

4) Take healthy cuttings, strong, disease and insect damage free.

5) The leaf or leaves left on the cutting stem will continue to provide moisture and energy "juice" until roots have formed. So you have to cut off all the extra leaves and flower buds and only leave one or two leaves at the top. Some plants have large leaves compared to their stem diameter and you can cut them in half width wise.

6) Cutting length varies from plant to plant. Most will grow roots from 3 to 4 inch cuttings. Some need 6 inches and others are so hardy only an inch stem and one half of a mature leaf are required.

7) The bottom of the stems will rot if they are wet. So the idea is to lightly mist the leaves and keep the air in the seed tray and dome moist without getting the perlite mix and stems wet.

8) When taking cutting they should be taken quickly and not allowed to dry out, keep moist and out of the sun.

9) The cuttings need bright light but not direct sun

10) The rooting hormone has a shelf life and should not be contaminated, keep cool and dry and out of direct sun. Ideally, it will last a couple of years.

11) Go to the library. Ive found most if not all of this information from library books and "Not the Internet". One of my favourite books is "Secrets of Plant Propagation" by Lewis Hill.

12) Lastly, Experiment. The best way to learn this is by trial and error. The best conditions for each species will become second nature after a while.

Youll need:

- A bag of Perlite ("white popcorn", naturally occurring silicous volcanic rock), you can add vermiculite and a little soilless mix but remember we want it light and airy and not wet

- Plastic seed growing tray with a high 6" clear plastic dome top

- 1 to 8 - Plastic plant pots 3 or 4 inch with drain holes, cleaned with water and
bleach 100:1) I use clean cottage cheese containers

- Clean sharp shears

- Hand squeeze spray bottle with clean water

- Softwood cutting rooting hormone powder (Stim-Root No.1 0.1% Indole-3-butyric acid)

- Dibbler a clean stick or pencil to make a hole in the perlite mix to put the cutting into


Clean your tools, pots and tray. Fill the pots with the perlite and put them into the seed tray. Harvest the cuttings from the plant taking longer cuttings then needed. At a worktable out of the hot sun, pour a little of the powder out on a napkin. Cut off the extra leaves on the stem of the cutting leaving one or two good leaves. Make a fresh cut on the stem touch it into the powder tap off the excess powder and with the dibbler make a hole in the perlite and push the stem in an inch or so. Each pot will hold 4 or 5 cuttings. When youre finished preparing the cuttings mist the leaves and dome and cover the tray. Put the tray in an area that gets bright light but not direct sun light. Mist the cuttings daily or in very hot times of the year twice daily, morning and night. Roots will usually form in 3 to 6 weeks. Some annual vines like wave petunias and ivy root in as little as two weeks. To check for roots lightly tug on the cuttings if resistance, then you have roots. Let the root grow to a length and thickness that will sustain the size of the stem (experiment). Usually new leaf buds will start to grow at this time too. Then pot them up in clean pots and new potting soil and water with a mild transplant fertilizer. And slowly introduce them to the sun over a week or so.

Additionally, if you get a "jiffy" style seed heating pad (Wal-M in January) to provide bottom warmth you may get roots a little faster on some species.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    Perlite, Clean sharp cutting knife or clippers, dibbler stick, rooting hormone, seedling tray and most importantly the 6" high dome cover to keep the leaves humid.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    Hand mister, seed tray and dome, plant heating pad for winter and early spring rooting, and the cuttings. There are way too many cuttings in there but I cant help myself.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    Cuttings can vary in length. Some plants root from the leaf nodes others need a longer than this. But cut off the flower buds and small leaves to promote root growth. This is a Salvia elegans cutting.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    Once the roots are an inch or two long pot it up. I use small 2 1/2" pots and a light potting mix and water with a weak transplant fertilizer. It may need to be kept in the dome for another week or so after that. Then introduce to the sun gradually.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    And there you have it! Your results may vary :)


clipped on: 12.11.2006 at 06:15 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2006 at 06:19 pm

Easy Propagation Chamber

posted by: little_dani on 10.05.2005 at 08:34 pm in Plant Propagation Forum

I make a little propagation chamber that is so easy, and so reliable for me that I thought I would share the idea. I have not seen one like it here, and I did look through the FAQ, but didn't find one there either. I hope I did not miss it, and I hope I do not offend anyone by being presumptive in posting this here.

That said....

This is what you will need.
A plastic shoebox, with a lid. They come in various sizes, any will do.

Soil less potting mix, half peat, half perlite, or whatever is your favorite medium.
A little clay pot, with the drain hole plugged with caulking or silicone. If this is a new pot, scrub it with some steel wool to be sure it doesn't have a sealer on it. You want the water to seep through it.
Rooting hormone powder or liquid, or salix solution from the willow tree.
Plant material, snippers. I am going to pot some Plectranthus (a tall swedish ivy) and a Joseph's Coat, 'Red Thread'. I already have some succulents rooted in this box. I will take them out and pot them up later, DH has a new cacti pot he wants to put them in.
You can see here, I hope, that I fill the clay pot to the top with rain water, well water, or distilled water. I just don't use our tap water, too much chlorine and a ph that is out of sight.

I pour a little of the hormone powder out on a paper plate or a piece of paper, so that I don't contaminate the whole package of powder. And these little 'snippers' are the best for taking this kind of cuttings.

This is about right on the amount of hormone to use. I try to get 2 nodes per cutting, if I can. Knock off the excess. It is better to have a little too little than to have too much.
Then, with your finger, or a pencil, or stick, SOMETHING, poke a hole in the potting mix and insert your cutting. Pull the potting mix up around the cutting good and snug.

When your box is full, and I always like to pretty much fill the box, just put the lid on it, and set it in the shade. You don't ever put this box in the sun. You wind up with boiled cuttings. YUK!

Check the cuttings every few days, and refill the reservoire as needed. Don't let it dry out. If you happen to get too wet, just prop the lid open with a pencil for a little while.
This is a very good method of propagation, but I don't do roses in these. The thorns just make it hard for me, with my big fingers, to pack the box full. All kinds of other things can be done in these. Just try it!



clipped on: 12.11.2006 at 06:16 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2006 at 06:16 pm

RE: Sedum Autumn Joy (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: paulinep on 08.16.2005 at 10:59 am in Plant Propagation Forum

I propagate sedum autumn joy in the spring, to keep it from getting too tall, just use my pinch n poke method, same as impatiens, begonias, coleus, plecthranthus, no rooting hormone needed! Makes hundreds of new plants so easily, I even stick them in pots along with my other pinched plants. This one is soooo easy, could proably even do it now, although all the flower heads have formed. Best in the spring.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pinch n Poke


clipped on: 09.22.2006 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2006 at 12:57 pm