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RE: getting a Silestone countertop (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: tonilynne on 11.10.2007 at 11:35 am in Kitchens Forum

We have Rosa Grey in our kitchen, too. I love it. I am adding some photos of it in our kitchen, because when I was planning the kitchen I loved seeing photos of how it looked in "real" kitchens.

We went with the 4" backsplash because I don't care about having a tiled backsplash. If you want a tiled backsplash, I'd skip the 4" one altogether.

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Silestone Rosa Grey
clipped on: 10.25.2010 at 07:01 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2010 at 07:04 pm

RE: How to write a job specification for contractors to bid on? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mls99 on 05.01.2008 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

This was mine:
1. Obtain all required permits and inspections
2. Remove and dispose of old kitchen and appliances - keeping dishwasher
3. Replace windows in dining room and kitchen, and remove/dispose of old windows and window treatments
4. Close off doorway to sitting room
5. Open up existing doorway to dining room: remove wall to dining room, and patch ceiling, floor, and walls
6. Plumbing
- Remove baseboard heat in kitchen
- Tie off plumbing for old sink, disposal, and dishwasher
- New plumbing for sink, disposal, dishwasher, fridge on inside wall
7. Electrics
- Confirm 40A circuit
- Wire up cooktop, hood, oven, microwave, dishwasher, disposal (cover control), wine fridge, fridge, toekick heater
- Wire up fluorescent lights on ceiling, undercabinet lights on inside and outside walls, incabinet lights in wall cupboards, light switches near eating bar
- Replace brown sockets with white
- Wire up 1 additional white sockets on window wall
8. Refinish floor in kitchen, dining room, sitting room
9. Clean and prepare walls
10. Build and install IKEA cabinets
11. Install appliances (cooktop, hood, oven, microwave, dishwasher, disposal, wine fridge, fridge, toekick heater)
12. Template and install countertops
13. Install drop-in sink, faucet, and undersink water filter
14. Paint ceiling and walls in kitchen, dining room, sitting room, halls
15. Install glass backsplash behind cooktop and sink

It worked well (we'd been burned a little once before on a bath remodel, where we really only thought about fixtures rather than the work involved).


clipped on: 05.01.2008 at 12:35 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2008 at 12:35 pm

Picture (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: lindawink on 01.24.2008 at 09:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oops, lets try again



clipped on: 04.06.2008 at 02:49 am    last updated on: 04.06.2008 at 02:49 am

RE: Shaker Cabinet Drawer Design (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cloud_swift on 04.03.2008 at 10:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

On mine only the drawers that are more than 8" high are 5 piece. The smaller drawers are slab. BTW, I think slab on the smaller drawers is typical Shaker. I have a book with pictures of Shaker furniture and the small drawers are slab. The Shakers only used 5 piece on drawers and doors that were large enough that 5 piece was easier/more practical than slab.

We have a lot of drawers so all 5 piece would have looked busy.


clipped on: 04.04.2008 at 01:32 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2008 at 01:32 pm

RE: Crazy to do hardwood floor with 5 kids and large dog? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 04.02.2008 at 10:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm not a big fan of wood floors in kitchens, no matter how "timeless" some may say it is, or how "trendy" it currently is. From a functional standpoint, with today's building methods, it's not a matter of if water damage occurs, it's a matter of when and how much. Old homes basically used dimensional lumber for subfloors, that is when subfloors were used at all. Water drains pretty easily through the cracks in old home's wood's floors and through the cracks in the dimensional lumber subfloors and doesn't stand. Modern homes use plywood, which traps the water and it stays there with the floor soaking it up. Bingo. Water damage.

Also, even the hardest of hardwoods and the hardest prefinished ceramic impregnated oxides topcoats will need periodic "refreshing" of screening and topcoating. Site finishes cannot even compare with the hardness of prefinished, and they still show scratches and need recoating periodically. With how hard most of us are on our kitchen floors, that's something that needs to be done every 3-5 years to keep it maintained in optimum condition. Frankly, it's a hassle. You have to do the whole shebang at once unless there is a threshold for a logical stopping place, and moving everything to be able to recoat is an even bigger hassle. Maybe for some, the beauty and warmth are worth it. Not for me.

That's my roundabout way of justifying my own personal preferences. Preferences I'm sure some don't agree with and maybe some do. BUT, porecelain tile with epoxy grout and a warm floor system underneath is virtually maintainence free and the cats love it. Even sand and grit won't faze porcelain, and the epoxy grout is used in commercial situations in which stain proofing is important. Never needs to be sealed and looks brand new for the life of the install. The warm floors option is just a small bit of inexpensive luxury. It's cheap to operate, and oh so decadent to be able to stretch out your bare tootsies and warm them up on the floor.


clipped on: 04.02.2008 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 04.02.2008 at 11:54 am

RE: 36 in Flatware drawer? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: frankoma on 03.16.2008 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cutlery drawer is 33" and is functionally terrific. Not at all awkward, but jockeying back and forth between two drawers might be. Another thing to consider is how much space you lose by dividing up that 36". For example, this 33" drawer has an interior usable space of 28", while another 18" drawer has 13". This mostly applies to framed cabinets and may vary still between brands, but in this case two 18" drawers would only leave 26" to use. The single large drawer is a better use of space. The only way two smaller drawers would be better is if you prefer the look; but then I have a smallish kitchen and every inch counts!

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clipped on: 03.16.2008 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2008 at 04:07 pm

RE: What to do with the Dish Towel?!?! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: cat_mom on 03.15.2008 at 11:26 am in Kitchens Forum

We hang ours over the sink to dry out if it's pretty damp/wet after use. Otherwise we hang it on a towel bar inside the cab door:

sink cab



clipped on: 03.16.2008 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 03.16.2008 at 12:09 am

RE: 4'' Broom Closet from Ikeafans (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rmkitchen on 02.11.2008 at 04:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi buehl!

I'm not a member of ikeafans but I do have these pictures courtesy of dianalo:

Our cabinetmaker has made one for us and I believe it's six inches wide (I think because he gave me the "okay" to purchase a five inch pull for it). It will sit in between our freezer and pantry and he's kitted it with stainless peg board so we'll be able to hang all sorts of doo-dads. I believe part of it is sitting in our raw kitchen right now (out of the way of the drywallers) but won't be installed until next week at the earliest. I'll be happy to post pictures of it once it's in.

I'm so grateful to dianalo for posting these photos last summer -- ours is not an enormous kitchen and this should be a clean-up godsend!


clipped on: 03.15.2008 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2008 at 11:45 pm

RE: Where do you have your bar? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: soonermagic on 03.14.2008 at 10:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

We keep ours in the hutch. Originally was going to put a beverage fridge here but opted against it. All of our drink glasses are here and the booze is in one of the pullouts behind the lefthand door.

Pantry Hutch


clipped on: 03.15.2008 at 01:05 am    last updated on: 03.15.2008 at 01:05 am

Finished - Before/After pictures (finally!)

posted by: mysterymachine on 03.01.2008 at 04:45 pm in Kitchens Forum


This one gives you a better idea of how tight it was in the actual kitchen - if the fridge was open and the oven was open at same time there wasn't enough room for a person between

The wall that was removed:

Sorry I couldn't find any pictures of the dining room "before" it was just a plain carpeted rectangular room.

Now for the good stuff.. the after!

I have to mention that many of the after pictures were taken by the GC's photographer and are copyrighted so cannot be used without permission (he said I had to say that before I posted the pics).

The dining table and chairs we had before. All the design was done by me with lots of help from gardenweb - especially on the layout (at first my DW didn't trust me to do it and wanted to hire a designer but I think I did really well) the exceptions are the acrylic in the dining room was designed by my GC and the cabinets in the dining I gave general layout to the cabinet folks but they did the finished design (kitchen cabs I did all the design/layout). I used google sketchup for all the design.

The structural changes were removing the dining wall and bumping back just the chunk of the wall behind the wall ovens a couple feet. I also added a pocket door into the opening from the TV room to the kitchen as well (the last of the "before" pictures is taken from where the pocket door was put in).

There are so many details I could spend an hour typing them and still leave something out - so instead if you have any questions ask and I will respond :) One thing not noticeable in the pics is the cupboard on the right in the dining cabs is actually a beverage fridge. There is pullout trash+recycle in both the kitchen and dining.

And people always ask about the diswasher, yes its an 18" dishwasher, and they always ask why I went for a small one - becuase its the only way I could get the layout I wanted with the dishwasher to the left of the sink and where I could unload the whole dishwasher without moving my feet. The efficiency in loading/unloading more than makes up for the extra loads I have to run. Its a Miele with the silverware tray and I would estimate I only lose about 20% capacity compared to my old dishwasher.

The backsplash was done by my brother, its completely custom cut (as in he had a pile of leftover slab of rock from some other jobs of his and he cut all the peices to the exact size so it would be 2 tiles high on point). I bought the fossils on ebay over a 3 month period or so.

What's sad is the granite is the highlight of the kitchen and none of these pictures show it well. If you look close on the 3rd picture there you can see that it has black streaks and the picture with the sink you can see dark streaks there as well (in that area the streaks are dark grey)

Any questions? :)


clipped on: 03.06.2008 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2008 at 07:53 pm

RE: Which Rev-a-shelf 3' filler pull-out is most useful? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: alku05 on 02.27.2008 at 10:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have two of the spice pullouts behind columns and just love them. They hold bottles up to 2.25" in diameter, and the shelves are fully adjustable.






clipped on: 02.28.2008 at 12:51 am    last updated on: 02.28.2008 at 12:52 am

RE: Niches In Wall Behind Cooktop & In Pantry Wall--Anyone Have? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: babka on 02.27.2008 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ours goes between the studs. There is a pull-out pantry right next to the wall so nothing could stick out past the wall more than 1/2". The electrical sockets are mounted to the stud and hidden by the wood "shelf" which actually was our drawer front sample. We use it for a phone and small radio.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


clipped on: 02.28.2008 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 02.28.2008 at 12:34 am

RE: To hang pans or not to hang pans...? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: gizmonike on 02.24.2008 at 02:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Our skillets and broiler pans are in pullouts next to the range, and our pots are in the drawers next to them.



clipped on: 02.25.2008 at 02:40 am    last updated on: 02.25.2008 at 10:34 am