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RE: Habanero gold recipe? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: annie1992 on 10.03.2006 at 02:53 pm in Harvest Forum

zabby, I know Carol is laid up with a sore foot, so I'll post the recipe, Carol gave it to me to fill with Habanero Gold. It's a huge hit at the office and everywhere else, I took a double batch to Canning Camp last year and not one was left. (Ssshhh, don't tell that I was snacking on them on the way there, LOL)

They're nice and cheese-y, not at all sweet, like a cheese cracker only good.

Savory Cheddar and Jalape�o Jelly Cookies from Rick Rodgers

Makes about 4 1/2 dozen

8 ounces extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup jalapeno jelly, or sub apple butter or chutney

Place cheese and butter in a food processor (could be creamed by hand or mixer); add flour and process until the mixture forms a soft dough. Gather up the dough and divide into two flat disks. Wrap in wax paper and freeze until chilled, about 45 minutes.

Position two racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat to 400�. Line two baking sheets with parchment or use nonstick sheets.

Using 1 teaspoon dough for each, roll the dough into small balls and place 1 inch apart on the sheets. Bake 5 minutes. Remove from the oven. Using the handle of a wooden spoon or 1/2-inch-thick dowel, poke an indentation in each cookie. Place the jelly in a small plastic bag and force it down into one corner. Snip off the corner of the bag to make a small hole. Pipe the jelly into the indentations.

Return to the oven and bake, switching the positions of the sheets from top to bottom halfway through baking, until the tops are very lightly browned, about 10 minutes. (Cookies will continue to crisp as they cool.) Transfer to racks and cool completely.

Can be baked up to two days ahead. Store at room temperature in an airtight container and separate layers with wax paper.

If you get this too cold in the freezer it's hard to handle, but becomes more pliable if you let it set a minute. They are so yummy they are addictive and everyone wants me to make these now.

Annie

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clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 07:00 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 07:00 pm

RE: What is chutney and how do you use it? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: flora_uk on 04.26.2007 at 12:55 pm in Harvest Forum

Cheese and chutney sandwiches. Must be good bread, preferably white, crusty, unsliced and good Cheddar. I usually make apple, rhubarb or green tomato since those are the things I get gluts of. Personally I love raisins.

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clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 12:28 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 12:28 am

How much lime in small batches of 5-1-1?

posted by: rarvn on 06.30.2012 at 10:11 am in Container Gardening Forum

Hello everyone. I've been following the 5-1-1 discussions here with great interest. I've been using "bagged" potting mixes for years and haven't been completely satisfied with any of them. I'm going to be repotting some very small indoor plants soon and want to try them in the 5-1-1.

My main question is about lime. I'm mixing a small batch of 5 cups bark, 1 cup perlite and 1 cup peat moss for a total of 7 cups dry mix. Can someone please tell me how much lime to add to that? Thank you.

I have an additional question about the repotting procedure itself. Do I leave the rootball intact when I repot the plant, or do I go ahead and rinse all the old soil mix away, essentially bare-rooting the plant?

Thank you so much to anyone who answers. I'm really excited about trying my own mixes and the 5-1-1 seems instinctively right to me.

Peggy

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clipped on: 03.08.2014 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2014 at 08:27 pm

RE: Germinating and Transplanting in 5:1:1 mix (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: tapla on 10.14.2009 at 03:15 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I don't do much seed starting, but I do do a fair amount of propagation by cuttings of various types. Very often, when I build my display containers in the spring, I do lots of pinching of the plants I'm planting into arrangements. Very often I stick the cuttings right into the 5:1:1 mix in plantings I'm building. Each and every time I do it, the thought that I'm tempting fate in some small way (it's no big deal if the cutting fails) passes through my mind (so I then have the opportunity to ignore it, which I always do). I suppose I can shorten this whole spiel by saying that a very high % of those cuttings, almost all of them, strike.

You would be tempting fate in the same fashion as I, but it's probably not going to be an issue in most cases, as JaG also confirms.

If I have important cuttings, I usually use something sterile, like Turface or perlite, or a combination of the two. I think a very good way to treat seeds of plant material like tomato, pepper, cabbage - as opposed to carrot, radish, etc, would be to fill cell packs with screened Turface or floor-dry. Seeds go on top & then get covered with a little Turface fines or sand. Keeping the mix damp and not wet will then practically eliminate the opportunities for D/O diseases to get a hold.

For the 5:1:1 mix, the desired particle size is actually smaller than a dime, - the dime-size pieces being about the upper size limit with the main body of the soil particulates being about 1/2 dime-size and smaller.

Al

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clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 04:55 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 04:55 pm

RE: My 5-1-1 weekend (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: greenman28 on 12.10.2013 at 08:06 pm in Container Gardening Forum

Not bad, not bad.

Your Perlite is excellent. I wish I still had a local source for the coarse stuff.

I, too, use Greenall Micro Bark. I screen over 1/2-inch hardware cloth and keep everything that falls through. I'm curious what you mean by "too-small bits"? - you want to include the fine bark dust to aid in "binding" the ingredients and equalizing moisture retention. The bark dust is important because the Greenall product is not composted as far as I can tell.

The sapwood is the light-colored "match stick" looking stuff that can be seen especially well in the last picture you posted. I do a hand-picking of the sapwood after screening the bark, but mostly I just make sure to add some slow-release fertilizer to offset the potential Nitrogen immobilization mentioned by Oxboy.

Oxboy, Greenall is Fir bark, which is probably why it looks shredded...it is more "furry" (haha!) than Pine bark, for sure. And this product is fresh, not composted.

Josh

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clipped on: 03.05.2014 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2014 at 06:26 pm

RE: countering sapwood (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tapla on 05.11.2013 at 09:08 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I think you'll be ok if it's 10-15%. The 3 problems associated with sapwood are some N immobilization (tie-up) that can be countered with timely applications of a 3:1:2 or 3:1:1 (if there's a lot of sapwood) ratio fertilizer; a high pH spike at some point in the composting process (prolly not much of a problem @ 10-15%); and heat generated by the faster composting (of the sapwood) process (again prolly not much of a problem at 10-15%).

Al

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clipped on: 03.05.2014 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2014 at 06:11 pm

RE: Starting seeds to be transplanted into 5-1-1. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tapla on 12.08.2011 at 04:20 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I have germinated fine seed directly in the 5:1:1 mix by mixing it with a little sand, then sprinkling the sand/seed mix on top of the 5:1:1 or the gritty mix. I then cover the seeds with about 1/8-1/4" of screened peat. I keep the mix moist by watering it with a 1/2 GPM Foggit nozzle, but you could use a hand spritzer to do the job.

Seedlings LOVE plenty of air in the root zone, and abhor soggy soils, so keep that in mind when hatching your next plan for starting seeds.

Al

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clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 10:05 pm

RE: Alternative to Foliage-Pro (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Joe1980 on 05.28.2011 at 11:08 am in Container Gardening Forum

I just typed up some info on another thread, but I'll copy & paste the meat & potatoes of it for you. It is in reference to the cost of Foliage Pro. Whatever you get for a price, take these numbers into consideration.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Let's assume you get a 32oz jug of the Foliage Pro 9-3-6, like I did. I payed a total of $23, including shipping, from Amazon on sale. I water with 1/4tsp per gallon, every time I water; a maintanence fertilizing program.

They recommend 1tsp per gallon, every 2 weeks for regular dose fertilizing.
1oz = 6tsp
32oz = 192tsp
Thus, on a feed every 2 weeks plan, you can make 192 gallons of fertilizer solution.

For maintanence feeding, which I do, they recommend 1/4tsp per gallon of water, every time you water.
1oz = 6tsp
32oz = 192tsp, but at 1/4, you get 4 times that.
192x4= 768 gallons of fertilizer solution.

With the math in mind, to me, $23 dollars is easily worth being able to make 768 gallons of superior fertilizer solution. The time it'll take me to use 768 gallons of fertilizer water can be measured in years. Until something better comes along, Foliage Pro is the winner by a country mile, and well worth the expense.

Joe

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clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 12:47 am

RE: How to: Soil Mix Homemade - on a Serious Budget (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: seysonn on 02.24.2014 at 02:59 am in Container Gardening Forum

Posted by tapla z5b-6a mid-MI (My Page) on
Sat, Feb 22, 14 at 14:19

You should be able to get:
1 - 4 cu ft bag of perlite for < $20.
1 - 4 cu ft bale of peat for < $10
1 - 50 lb bag of lime for < $7
4-5 - 2 cu ft bags of pine bark for about $23
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

A simple math show that 5-1-1 mix(based on above prices) will cost LESS THAN $3 per cubic foot ($0.38 per gal.). The most expensive ingredients in it is PERLITE that costs $5 per cubic foot. But it is 1/7th of the mix.

TRANSLATION: to pot a 5 gal. bucket, it will cost UNDER $2. That is probably less than one half of some bagged potting soils. (like MG, Promix)

So if you have a lot of container gardening to do, then 5-1-1 is worth looking into it.

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clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 09:58 am

another good site (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Micki777 on 01.09.2012 at 02:17 am in Winter Sowing Forum

This is a PDF alphabetized by Latin names. I found it very informative. It was quick to scroll down to the plant I needed a quick description on and propagation/germination details.

Here is a link that might be useful: Information on various plants

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clipped on: 01.16.2014 at 11:30 am    last updated on: 01.16.2014 at 11:30 am

RE: Advice for winter sowing sweet peas (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: littleonefb on 01.07.2012 at 12:50 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I posted this in 2010 about my experience with sweet peas and wintersowing.

Hope this helps all of you this year as well.

Fran

Until last year my germination rate on sweet peas, whether they were WS or direct sown is in the zero to 3 seedlings, if I'm lucky.
No matter what I did with the seeds, nick them and soak them, soak them and sow them, just sow them, those where my results.

BUT

Last year I purchased 2 kinds of sweet peas, snoopea and elegant lady and got 2 sets of different instructions from TM seeds. On line it said to surface sow the seeds and on the packets it was cover with 1 inch of soil.

Well, the only thing I never tried was surface sow the seeds. So figured, what the heck, one last shot.

Soaked the seeds overnight and Surfaced sowed the seeds, just pressed them into the soil and left them on the top and Low and Behold, out of 25 seeds of each kind, I got 25 seedlings.

Talk about being shocked.

So this year, I sowed more snoopeas, elegant lady and added streamers and high scent and did an experiment.

Snoopeas and elegant lady where soaked in water overnight and surfaced sowed, and all the seeds germinated into wonderful seedlings.

With the high scent and streamers that say to cover with 1 inch or so of soil, I soaked all the seeds overnight and sowed have the seeds according to the packages and the other half where soaked overnight and surface sowed.

25 high scent seeds soaked and surfaced sowed all germinated, the 25 seeds soaked and sowed as directed with soil on top, only 4 seeds germinated as of this morning.

25 streamer seeds, soaked and surfaced sowed all germinated, the 25 seeds soaked and sowed as directed with soil on top of seeds, only 3 germinated.

So from now on, all my sweet pea seeds will be soaked overnight in water, then surfaced sowed. No more soil on top of them.

Oh, the sweet peas seeds, all 4 kinds where sowed on 4/12/10 and germinated between 4/25 and 4/29.

Fran

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clipped on: 01.16.2014 at 10:13 am    last updated on: 01.16.2014 at 10:15 am

Saran Wrap Method Of Storing Dahlia Tubers

posted by: dahliaboy on 09.18.2006 at 10:18 pm in Dahlia Forum

I found this informative article about the Saran Wrap Storage Method on The Michigan Dahlia Societies Website.
Dahlia Boy.

No Fuss: Store Your Tubers in Plastic Wrap

By Marian Mandella, Bernard Mandella, and Richard W. Peters, M.D.

Nothing is more sacred to an experienced dahlia grower than his/her method of storing tubers over the winter. This article is not for them, as they have found their favorite way already. However, if their curiosity or experimental impulses are strong enough, they may want to try a dozen or so tubers stored by this new method.

In any storage method, the ultimate goal is to preserve the tubers as closely as possible to the condition they were in when they were dug in the fall. Our method is devoid of any storage medium�no peat moss, vermiculite, sand, wood shavings or cedar chips. We use Saranwrap or other plastic wrap found in your local supermarket. The advantages we have seen are: no bother with a bedding medium, no worry about contamination of vermiculite with asbestos, much less storage space needed for your tubers and ease in locating your tubers in storage. In addition, this new method has a distinct advantage in that you do not have to check the tubers during the winter storage as is recommended for the vermiculite/plastic bag method.

Initially we had valid concerns about this new method, so the first year we packed 25% of our yearly supply of tubers (1,200 to 1,500) in plastic wrap and 75% in vermiculite/plastic bags, and the results with the plastic wrap were outstanding. Each successive year we stored 25% more in plastic wrap, so that now for the past two years, 100% of our tubers have been stored by the new method.

Digging, washing and dividing are thoroughly covered in earlier Bulletins as well by a comprehensive article by Alan Fisher on the ADS Website (www.dahlia.org "Selected Articles of Interest). Therefore we will begin the description of our method starting with the freshly divided tuber. We recommend the use of a fungicide to reduce the numbers of fungal spores present on the tubers. We experimented initially with two fungicides: Daconil for liquid immersion and powdered garden sulfur for dusting. Daconil and other liquid fungicides are fairly expensive and hard to find, whereas powdered sulfur is reasonable and readily available.

Should you decide to dust with sulfur, which is the method we currently use, just add 8 quarts of vermiculite to one cup of powdered sulfur in a tall kitchen plastic trash bag and mix thoroughly. After the divided tubers have been washed and labeled, put a few in the mixture (they may be dry to slightly damp) and gently roll them around�very much like "Shake and Bake". This will apply a uniform coating over the entire surface. More sulfur can be added as deemed necessary. We have a lot of latitude here: the ratio of sulfur to vermiculite, the size of the plastic bag, or the manner in which the sulfur is applied is discretionary. Also, extenders such as very dry peat moss or fine white play sand can be substituted for the vermiculite.

After the tubers are divided, washed, labeled and treated with a fungicide method, set them aside to dry overnight. We advise wrapping them as soon as they are sufficiently dry, since tubers tend to get spongy and subject to drying out if permitted to sit around in the open for long periods of time. With this method you will also note that those tubers with slender necks can be preserved.

Tear off a sheet of plastic wrap about 20 or more inches long and lay it flat on a level surface. Place a tuber on one end and roll the plastic wrap over one complete turn. Lay another along side and roll again. Be certain that no tuber is touching another; plastic wrap must separate all tubers. You may wrap up to five tubers or so per package, but in the last 5-7 inches, fold over the side portions of the plastic wrap and continue to roll to completion. Fasten with a piece of masking tape that is labeled with the cultivar�s name and any other information.

The wrapped tuber bundles should be stored at 40-45 degrees F in corrugated boxes or other containers that you would ordinarily use. The tubers emerge very firm, and the losses to tuber rot have been in the order of 3-6% per year. There is essentially no loss from shriveling or drying.

When you are ready to plant or pot your tubers, simply open the package, remove the tubers and check for eyes. The tubers tend to eye up earlier with this method, but some will be blind stock with no eyes. Some cultivars, like Walter Hardisty, are notoriously slow to eye up. These can be placed in shallow nursery flats, covered with damp peat moss and placed in 70-75 degrees F. In a week or so the tubers can be rechecked for eye development.

A pertinent question arose as to whether the close packing would encourage and spread tuber rot, very much like the "rotten apple in the barrel". We have found that the rot fungus is slightly more transferable in the vermiculite/plastic bag method. During our experimental years we put half of the tubers from the same clumps in vermiculite and half in plastic wrap. Interestingly enough, those that rotted did so by both methods, which leads us to believe that the clumps were infected prior to storage and were unlikely to have survived in any storage method. There were also occasions in plastic wrapped bundles when one or two tubers would rot but the others would not. We believe that the thin layer of plastic is protective when the package is wrapped so that no two tubers ever touch.

Another question was whether the close packing would cause the tubers to "sweat". Condensation is a function of temperature and humidity and occurs when warmer humid air comes in contact with cold air. Tubers are generally stored in garages at fairly uniform temperatures ranging between 40 and 50 degrees F. The garage temperature and the storage box temperature are quickly equalized. Therefore, without a great temperature differential, it is unlikely that any appreciable condensation would occur.

Other questions and comments will surely arise as more growers share their experiences, but for getting started with our method just remember: dig, wash, divide, label, treat with fungicide, wrap in plastic wrap, pack in boxes and store at 40-45 degrees F. Dahlia growers are very inventive and resourceful and will most certainly be able to expand, improve and adjust this method to suit their own personal preferences.

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clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 08:52 am

RE: Does anyone do a cutting garden and what do you grow? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: diggerdee on 02.01.2013 at 04:27 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I grow lots of stuff for cutting. Just looked at my WSing records from last year, and here is what I grew:

ageratum (3 kinds)
amaranthus (8 different kinds)
snaps (several kinds, but Animation, Rocket, and Giant Bouquet are a bit taller)
Chinese asters (LOVE, LOVE, LOVE these - very elegant and long-lasting flowers! Grew 17 types last year! Just wish they were a bit taller)
Bells of Ireland
calendula
Celosia (several varieties)
dahlias (lots of these - grew many from WSown seed)
Sweet william
feverfew (several varieties - I find these indispensable for fillers - just wished they bloomed a bit later and longer, although I get shorter rebloom later in season)
gomphrena (another lovely filler)
hungarian broom corn - AWESOME plant, very unusual, and great for fall arrangements)
marigolds (I use the taller varieties in bouquets)
poppies (looks great to use the seed heads/pods as well)
rudbeckias galore! (12 varieties)
statice (another great filler)
tithonia (but I can't always get this to last in the vase...)
sunflowers (of course!)
zinnias (of course!)

I also have some perennials that I use:
coneflowers (I find these can either last weeks or hours..???)
phlox (LOVE this - fragile but very fragrant & long-lasting)
lilies (GORGEOUS! - but I try to grow ones that aren't too fragrant. They can really be overpowering)
roses (of course, but most of mine are not teas so I don't get the long stems)
hydrangeas (another really long lasting beautiful bloom)
hosta blooms (nice, unexpected fillers - looks really great to use a big variegated hosta leaf in the bouquet too)
peonies (long-lasting and gorgeous)
Queen Anne's Lace (quite gorgeous & elegant filler)

I think that's most of it, although I've been know to try anything (including weeds!) if I need to fill out a bouquet.

Dee

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clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 12:48 am    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 12:48 am

RE: Growing morning glories in a large flower pot (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pvick on 09.05.2013 at 08:33 am in Winter Sowing Forum

All so pretty, fran! Agreed, growing them in pots can really show them off. I have even grown them in small pots, pushing the limit: the pic below is 3 plants in a 6" pot. One of my favorite pictures.

MG trellis

PV

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clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 09:37 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 09:37 pm

RE: How do YOU start your Daylily seeds? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: macthayer on 08.28.2008 at 08:36 pm in Daylily Forum

I would be happy to explain the "chopstick thing". I had been complaining about losing plants due to over/underwatering, and I'd bought a "water meter" which is a device with a metal stick that you put in the pot and it's supposed to tell you how moist the soil is at the moment. I'd made mention of it on another forum, and another Garden Web member told me it was useless (and it is-total waste of money) and to go out and buy some cheap, bamboo chopsticks at Walmart (or wherever). I think I got about 25 or 30 chopsticks for about $5, and of course you can keep re-using them. Then what you do is stick a chopstick into the dirt in the pot and leave it there for about 5 minutes. When you pull it out, test it for dampness. I just wipe the dirt off and hold it up against my facial cheek. If the chopstick is dry, the plant needs to be watered. If it comes out wet -- and sometimes it will surprise you at how wet it feels -- do not water. I think it works so well because the bamboo is so porous. Anyway, it really is a clever way to tell you how much water is in the soil near the bottom of the pot. I wish I'd known about it when I was over-wintering those daylilies! LOL!

And yes, Marbree, the plant that lived is doing remarkably well. No scapes yet, but lots of healthy foliage, and a second fan coming up. I feel confident I'll have scapes by next season! MacThayer

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clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 05:50 pm

RE: Annie's salsa mix...big hit (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: annie1992 on 08.06.2005 at 09:53 am in Harvest Forum

That's it, Patris!! I'll send a jar of my salsa to Oprah and she won't be able to resist us. Bwahahahahahah.....

And it only took me five YEARS and countless batches before I got it to the point where I love it. Piece of cake.

Here's the recipe. Note that I cut the vinegar way, way down and pressure cook mine. If you want to HWB it you may, but the vinegar will have to be increased to one cup. You can also sub lemon juice or lime juice for the vinegar for a different flavor (although I tried taking out the cider vinegar altogether and that wasn't right either).

ANNIE�S SALSA

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2 � cups chopped onion
1 � cups chopped green pepper
3 � 5 chopped jalapenos
6 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
� cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
16 oz. tomato sauce
16 oz tomato paste
Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Pour into hot jars, process at 10 lbs of pressure for 30 minutes for pints.

Makes 6 pints

Enjoy this, and happy canning.

Annie (blushing)

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 11:36 am

RE: Row covers for summer use (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: seysonn on 09.06.2013 at 10:24 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Yes. If the purpose of row cover is to keep the insects away, tulle is an option. It is inexpensive, light and water pass through it ,it is light weight and easy to use. Just use 'U" pins to hold it down.

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 11:31 am

RE: Cover Crops (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tapla on 07.18.2010 at 11:47 am in Container Gardening Forum

Be on the look-out for fine pine bark. Mix plenty of the bark into your soil next spring (you want more bark than old soil), along with some perlite & lime, and you're good to go for another year.

Al

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clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 02:06 pm

hot weather greens

posted by: Everett - UT (Guest) on 07.13.2000 at 06:25 pm in Market Gardener Forum

I just want people to know that I experimented with a salad mix of baby collards, baby chard (bright lights), baby kale (red russian), and beet greens (red ace)in my very hot summer climate here, and the mix is getting rave reviews. Just some new ideas for salad mix ingredients, especially somewhere hot. Some of my customers mix it with some store-bought romaine, but lots of others like it just as it is. And a nice thing is that those greens will continue to produce in the cool weather ahead, in fall, so I'll add it to my other lettuce-based mix.

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clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 12:56 am    last updated on: 08.29.2013 at 02:50 pm

RE: Winter-sowing tomatoes?? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: trudi_d on 01.07.2010 at 11:28 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I put my tom seeds out in February, sometimes that's mid or late. But that's when I also put out all tender annuals.

Is there a list of times? Sigh. No, because a long time ago everyone wanted calendar dates and that doesn't work because of the many different zones, but after so many years perhaps I should do some zone based suggestions.

For the most part we've followed a pattern of woody plants in December and January because they usually need a lot of freezes and thaws to germinate, hardy annuals, all perennials and biennials, cold-season veggies all throughout Winter, and tender annuals and warm-season veggies when winter is transitioning into spring.
T

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clipped on: 08.24.2013 at 12:27 am    last updated on: 08.24.2013 at 12:27 am

RE: Poll , When do you plant garlic? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: GardenLad on 09.13.2005 at 09:51 pm in Allium Forum

I've planted from mid-October until well into December. But given my druthers it would all go in the ground Thanksgiving weekend.

FWIW, according to Darrell Merrill, who's grown more than 500 garlic varieties (he once grew out both the entire SSE and USDA collections in one year) says that you can plant anytime from September until the ground is too hard, and they will all grow and ripen at the same time.

Darrell is in Oklahoma. But I don't think that matters. In my more limited experience, his point seems valid everywhere.

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clipped on: 07.31.2013 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2013 at 09:49 pm

RE: Winter sown corn vs direct sown corn (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: smarmyclothes on 06.07.2013 at 06:22 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I have been trying various methods over the last few nights. Rolled up damp newspaper was my least favorite/effective method.

White wine worked fairly well.

Oil in a fishy smelling cat food can also worked well.

But I tried the soy sauce/oil last night, and that was by far the most effective.

I got about a dozen dead earwigs a night with the wine and oil/cat food. With the soy sauce method I probably had 200 dead earwigs overnight.

A friend also told me 30-40 drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract mixed in a small spray bottle and sprayed on and around the plants keeps them away. Hopefully with these two methods, I can get rid of them!

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clipped on: 07.26.2013 at 09:04 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2013 at 09:05 pm

RE: New to vegetable gardening--HELP! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: amlinde78 on 02.24.2010 at 08:40 pm in Utah Gardening Forum

My blog (blog.vegenag.com) is devoted to vegetable gardening in Utah. I have everything you need to know about starting seeds indoors all the way to harvest.

As for Utah varieties, the link below contains information on a great resource from Utah State University about varieties that do well in Utah.

Here is a link that might be useful: Varieties for Utah

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clipped on: 07.01.2013 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 07.01.2013 at 09:24 am

RE: Radish issue (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: seysonn on 06.26.2013 at 12:32 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Too much water, not enough sun... radishes will not form good roots. They need to get thirsty between watering. The radish bulb/root is just an emergency storage of water and nutrient. But when the soil is always wet, they don't feel like storing anything for emergency(When soil is lacking moisture). In rainy climates , it is difficult to train radishes. When they have about 4 real leaves, they should not given much water so they get thirsty. Their leaves get dark green . Then their STORAGE program kick in.

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clipped on: 06.26.2013 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2013 at 02:19 pm

RE: Snow peas & sugar snap peas (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: farmerdilla on 06.15.2009 at 11:53 am in Beans, Peas & Other Legumes Forum

Snap peas grow just like shelling peas, but have edible shells. Sugar Snap is a cultivar name for a snap pea that is excellent but a very large plant. gets over 5 ft tall in some instances. Snap peas are also available in dwarf doem just like shelling peas. Snow peas are a bit more tricky, for me less tolerant of conditions. These are used when the pod is flat, before any peas develop in the pod.

Here is a link that might be useful: Snap pea cultivars

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clipped on: 06.23.2013 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2013 at 09:17 pm

RE: Starting from seed in a large pot (no potting up) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: digdirt on 11.04.2011 at 09:37 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I've read a few articles about starting tomatoes from seed, and all of them recommend starting in small containers and then moving the seedling to a larger container once or even twice.

Frequent question here always based on "easier". Many of the posts even include pics of the difference in root development. It may be easier but the point is to do what is best for the plant, not easier for the planter.

So the primary reason all the articles recommend as they do is because it is the act of transplanting - actually removing the plant from one small container to another larger one - is needed to trigger the fibrous/feeder root development in the plant. Don't do it and you end up with a tap root plant with minimal feeder root development.

Secondary benefits are stronger/larger root system, top growth is slowed allowing root development to catch up, shorter stem inter-node length assuming adequate light available, etc.

Do your seedlings the favor of transplanting them at least once. They will reward you for the effort.

Dave

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clipped on: 03.21.2013 at 04:56 am    last updated on: 03.21.2013 at 04:56 am

Holy Mole Peppers

posted by: keski on 08.06.2009 at 03:26 pm in Square Foot Gardening Forum

Holy Mole

I just harvested a couple Holy Mole peppers and slit them open, cleaned out the center, put in a strip of queso fresco and placed them on a piece of foil with some canola oil and grilled for about 15 min. OMG! Anyone else grow Holy Mole?

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clipped on: 03.20.2013 at 11:18 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2013 at 11:18 pm

RE: Cherry Tomato List (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: carolyn137 on 03.26.2012 at 12:06 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

From reading here, this is the list of those that seem to get top ratings along with Sun Gold.
Black Cherry
Sun Sugar
Sweet 100
Super Sweet 100
Isis Candy

What are your opinions on these varieties? Are there any others I should check out? How about whites and greens - are they worth trying?

******
Not top ratings as I see it and others see it as well at several message sites where I post and I've seen you only post here at GW, and no problems with that.

I think many folks, especially those just starting out grow the same cherries b'c someone else did and b'c they don't know about the hundreds and hundreds of other worthy cherries.

And now you're saying you're going to go with the following;

Sun Sugar
Sweet 100
Super Sweet 100
Gardener'S Delight
Sweet Million

OK, four hybrids and one OP.

But then you asked initially about whites and greens. So it looks like you really wanted to grow several colored cherry tomatoes and you've ended up with almost all red ones.

At the risk of taking some flack from some here and you as well, but I'm a big Girl and can handle it, LOL, I'm going to list some varieties by color that I know many like and that means Black Cherry as well, which has gotten rave reviews elsewhere.

REDS

Gardener's Delight, aka Sugar Lump is good and also
Camp Joy, aka Chadwick's Cherry, and also Mountain Magic F1 which has lots of disease tolerance for south FL, and many many more, too numerous to mention.

PINKS

Amish Salad, Pink Ping Pong, a larger cherry, and many more

GOLDS, Galina's is a must with PL foliage

ORANGE, Sungold F1 itself is the BEST IMO, but others as well

BLACKS, Black Cherry or Kazachka (Chocolate Cherry and Brown
Berry not as good IMO)

GREEN WHEN RIPES, Green Zebra Cherry ( not related to the variety Green Zebra), Green Doctors or Green Doctors Frosted

Whites ( not white, range from ivory to pale yellow to a deeper yellow depending on the degree of foliage cover, the UV and the specific variety), some of the ones bred by Joe Bratka such as Snow White, Rabbit, Ghost, etc., Dr. Carolyn ( no I didn't name it) which was derived from Galina's and has some of those good taste genes from that variety

MULTI-COLOR ones

Isis Candy, also bred by Joe Bratka but splits badly for me, but more interesting to me are two oval ones bred by Fred Hempel and I'd descibe them as shades of different pastels and their names are Blush and Maglia Rose, both of which I've grown and both of which are offered by Seeds of Change.

So just a few varieties to consider instead of growing primarily red cherries.

Carolyn

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clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 06:38 pm

RE: Need advice about Roma Tomatoes (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: missingtheobvious on 01.18.2013 at 06:36 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

A few years back on GW, there was a member (brokenbar) who had a home business drying tomatoes for sale to local restaurants -- literally tons of fruit. (She may also have sold to farmer's markets; I don't remember.) Unfortunately, she retired from the business, they moved, and she stopped posting (at least in this forum; you might try a general site search for her user-name, to see what's still around).

Since I am interested in drying tomatoes, I kept a list of the varieties she recommended. Besides flavor, her criteria included indeterminate, few seeds, and large fruit. The last two were to reduce the time spent preparing and trimming the fruit. (I don't know if she peeled and/or seeded them. My preference, so far, is to seed but not peel.)

These were her favorites:
= Russo Sicilian Toggeta, aka Russo Sicilian; various spellings (her overall favorite; also good fresh)
= Chinese Giant, which I can't find, and assume is the variety called simply Chinese
= Carol Chyko's Large Paste
= Cuoro Di Toro (there are many varieties with similar names: preferably the true oxhearts?)
= Opalka (also good fresh)
= San Marzano Redorta

She also mentioned growing these every year; some are not pastes, but I believe they were all grown for drying (her husband grew and sold tomatoes which weren't for drying):
= Zapotec Pink Pleated, aka Zapotec
= Long Tom (also good fresh)
= Amish Paste (some like it fresh)
= Mexico
= Baylor Paste
= Beach Boy
= Enormous Plum (also good fresh)
= 1 x 6

She grew smaller amounts of these varieties, as specials; flavors are more piquant, and she charged more for them (I think part of that was small fruit size and/or additional prep time):
= Costoluto Genovese
= Principe Borghese (too small for mass production, but excellent flavor)
= Basinga
= Canestrino
= De Barao Black (also good fresh)
= Federle (also good fresh)
= Pantano Romanesco

These varieties have been suggested by other sources:
= Black Plum
= Cherry Roma
= Green Zebra
= Mexico
= Pompador
= Purple Calabash
= Red Star
= San Marzano

So far whenever I grow a bunch of varieties for dehydrating, it's a Late Blight year, so all I can report is that I dried a bunch of Juliets (had to do something with them). If you don't mind the trouble to quarter and seed them, they're fine (as well as unbelievably prolific and blemishless).

I grew some Romas a couple of years ago. They dried okay, but I wasn't fond of the quality of the fruit, or the determinate aspect. I've also dried various tomatoes which I purchased, which also dried well; some were Roma-shape, others were larger, some very meaty with as many as 6 cells.

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clipped on: 03.16.2013 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2013 at 05:43 pm

What is most sweetest, best tasting tomato?

posted by: tammyinwv on 03.31.2010 at 11:00 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I have seed for:
Caspian Pink
Black Plum
Sungold (now I see I should buy these)
Brandywine
Cherokee Purple
Mortgage Lifter
Black Krim
Ananas Noir
Super 100's (just bought)

Other than any of the above, what is your absolute favorite for sweetness and best taste? Or if you recommned NOT growing any of the above, I would like to hear that as well. I am tired of flavorless storebought fruit from store shelves or Walmart plants.
Tammy

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clipped on: 03.16.2013 at 07:19 am    last updated on: 03.16.2013 at 07:21 am