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Sneak Peak Vanity and Laundry Cabinets

posted by: enduring on 12.23.2013 at 08:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Well the cabinet guy just left for the week and isn't quiet done. He had a lot of modifications to do to get my laundry tower conformed to accommodate my hidden maintenance area. Then the vanity was pretty straight forward except for the Toe Ductor. It is not easy to get the connections made. My DB had a bit of a struggle with the flex duct connection to the steel boot thing. Brett (cabinet guy) also struggled with the same procedure when hooking the flex duct to the toe kick boot. Its all in now.

PICTURES

Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
Laundry basket made out of felt will go here.
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I see a crazy kitty!
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I'll besure to have the door open when I iron so I can access the inside of the cabinet. My iron will go in there. My soaps on the second shelf. If I put a pull out in that middle area it will have to be mounted to the sides.
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Needing to complete:
1) Door jambs need finishing, door hardware, detail the maintenance access.
2) Toe kick veneer needs placed.
3) Electrical outlets, heated floor connected, sconces, 4) LED in toe kick area, and inside doored cabinets, and inside medicine cabinets.
5) Counter placed.
6) Plumbing fixtures installed (TOILET).
7) case work about the room.
8) Medicine cabinet made out of walnut.
9) Hardware for cabinet doors and drawers to be selected.
10) TILE & CAULK (me)

I am so please with it so far. There were issues but I didn't change out the mistakes. I thought the work looked very good to this point; don't press my luck with style errors that were made. Such as all the horizontal grain I wanted on the cabinets were vertical :0 But I decided to stay with it because my doors had vertical panels in the paneled doors. I didn't expect that either but it was clearly pictured on a pamphlet that I ordered from. Unfortunately the sample picture of the door was of cherry and I didn't notice the grain direction. But when I saw those doors this summer (yes it has been that long!) I about fainted. I will have 4" baseboard on the wall, 3" vertical case work, and 4" horizontal rail at the top. My design, I hope it looks ok :/

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clipped on: 08.25.2014 at 03:17 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2014 at 03:17 pm

RE: Mirrored recessed medicine cabinet recs, pls! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: linelle on 06.23.2014 at 12:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I just got a Kohler, beveled glass, mirrors inside door and back of cabinet. Mine is 15 x 20 and I'm using it on a side wall so I can use the hinged mirror to see the sides of my hair. :) It's a guest bath so I don't need a ton of medicine cabinet storage. I think it cost +/- $120.

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 01:14 pm

Sharing my Bathtub Research

posted by: belasea on 12.03.2012 at 01:10 am in Bathrooms Forum

Everyone has been so helpful, so I thought I would share our bathtub search experience. The bathroom we are doing will have a shower over a tub and I like taking baths as well.

I was dead set on a cast iron tub until I realized that all of the cast iron tubs manufactured now have a non-slip bottom. I found out that this non-slip bottom is challenging to clean. I even went and looked in the showrooms, and sure enough they were all gray. My research on gardenweb and talking to contractors/plumbing stores also confirmed that they were difficult to clean. Not impossible, just difficult and I just wasn't up for the challenge.

I was very reluctant to go with fiberglass since our current fiberglass tub looks yellowed and horrible. However, I've been told they are built much better now, and we went with a thicker model. I also wanted one with a built in flange.

Next, came the height. I wanted one deep enough to take a nice bath, but not 20 inches high because it is higher than I want to step over as we age. Why don't more manufacturers make tubs 18 inches deep? Why are most 14 or 20?

We considered:
Kohler Bellwether - did not like the nonslip surface, but like the shape
Mirabelle Edenton - saw some complaints about chipping and not draining properly. I visited Fergusons, and the salesman did not deny it and said it was up to my contractor to test the tub. My contractor said he has installed these tubs without a problem, but it was higher than I wanted and decided it wasn't worth the risk.
Hydrosystems Lacey and the Sydney - both 20 inches high or higher
Americh Turo - after much research, went with this tub. Our contractor said these are good tubs, and the Plumbing store said another contractor installed it in his own house. It's only 18 inches high, 32 inches wide (also comes 30 wide), but has a deep bath. We purchased the non-airbath model. It has arrived and we're very happy with how it looks. Here is a picture of it. I'll post better pictures after its installed, but thought this may help someone else out who may be looking for 18" height tub.

This post was edited by belasea on Mon, Dec 3, 12 at 1:18

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Americh turo bathtub
clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:23 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 09:40 am

RE: Kohler Archer Bath Tub (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: staceyneil on 12.14.2010 at 08:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have one, with the Kohler horizontal overflow, and like it very much!

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Kohler archer tub
clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 09:31 am

RE: Duravit v. Mirabelle v. Kohler soaking tub?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 02.01.2014 at 09:23 am in Bathrooms Forum

You can search this forum and find detailed info on the Kohler Archer and Mirabelle Edenton. The Edenton had production problems when it first came out but they have been corrected. I like the feel of the Mirabelle acrylic over Kohler. Tha Maax Rubix is similar to the Edenton.

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Tub
clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 08:30 am

RE: Duravit v. Mirabelle v. Kohler soaking tub?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 03.11.2014 at 09:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Pind54 - good to hear.

I just saw that Kohler has a new Archer 60 x 30 alcove with apron in acrylic and Archer 60 x 30 alcove no apron in exocrylic. It appears to be a popular tub.

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Tub
clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 08:29 am

RE: Has anyone purchased from efaucet? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: suero on 02.03.2010 at 01:08 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I purchased Grohe shower and sink fixtures from Faucet Direct (faucetdirect.com). They weren't the cheapest, but were close, and everything came on time in perfect condition. I purchased bathroom accessories from Plumbtile. They were the cheapest for those items. I had to do a lot of follow-up, but I did get everything in time and the stuff was packaged like fine jewelry.

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 08:13 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 08:14 am

RE: Has anyone purchased from efaucet? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sherri_09 on 09.04.2009 at 05:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Definitely would not recommend efaucet. I make a majority of my purchases on-line, and they have one of the worst customer service departments I've ever encountered. If you have any issues arise, you're out of luck. Not worth the risk in my opinion.

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 08:13 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 08:13 am

RE: Has anyone purchased from efaucet? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: michellemarie on 02.06.2010 at 09:27 am in Bathrooms Forum

I purchased 2 bathroom faucets and 2 kitchen faucets from Homeandstone.com which I learned about on this site. The items came directly from the manufacturers and where packaged very well. I had a fantastic experience with them. Sorry I can't comment on efaaucet for you, but it does seem on the kitchen side of the forums, a lot of people order from homeandstone.

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 08:12 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 08:12 am

RE: Carrara Marble in Master Bath - pros and cons? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: cottonpenny on 06.20.2012 at 08:13 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Tell us what you really think, marcolo ;-)

I played with my marble sample today. I put a blob of contact lens solution, hair gel, shampoo, conditioner, and body wash on it. They all etched. But, you can only see it pretty imperceptibly in the exact right light. Otherwise it just blends into the pattern of the marble. The sample wasn't sealed, but there were no stains - but all my products happen to be clear anyway.

Probably would have been a lot more noticeable if the sample was polished instead of honed.

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clipped on: 06.19.2014 at 05:43 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2014 at 05:44 pm

RE: Carrara Marble in Master Bath - pros and cons? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marcolo on 06.20.2012 at 03:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Nightmare material in a bath. I've had it marble in two different bathrooms.

Here's what you will experience:

- You must be constantly vigilant about every single personal care product that anyone brings into the bathroom, family and guests alike. Go open your medicine cabinet right now and see how many different chemicals are in there. You cannot predict the pH of a conditioner or hairspray or medicinal ointment just by looking at it. One toothpaste was a very bad offender. Every acidic product will leave a permanent etch, which will look like a spot of bodily excretion forever emblazoned on your floor or countertop. Gross.

- You can never have a cleaning lady do your bathroom. Ever.

- Expect chips, sometimes very large ones, on countertops. I once very, very gingerly placed the toilet tank cover on top of a carrara marble top for just a moment. I was extremely slow and careful. Didn't matter. Out came a gouge the size of my pinky.

- Get familiar with poultices. Pee on the floor stains, of course, but so do a lot of other products. You will be looking up recipes online, applying globs and blobs of weird homemade concoctions, covering them with plastic wrap (or not, as the recipe dictates) and leaving them on your floor for 24 hour periods or longer--and then trying to get them off. And yes, the marble was sealed.

- Many of the products you need to use for your mirrors or fixtures or tile will be the very things you can't use with marble floors around. So something has to suffer.

That was my experience. Enjoy.

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clipped on: 06.19.2014 at 05:43 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2014 at 05:43 pm

RE: Kohler Bathtub questions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 12.14.2013 at 04:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My personal experience with cast iron growing up is that the tub sucks the heat out of the water initially but stays warmer longer. When I use a cast iron tub, I fill it a couple of inches with the hot tap wide open, then reduce the temperature for the rest of the fill. Just like a cast iron skillet, you initially heat it up and then lower the temp and let it do a slow simmer. I love cast iron tubs and would love to be able to afford a Kohler Steeping tub. I need a very deep soaking tub because I have neck and shoulder aches. I am starting to DIY remodel my master and will be reducing the large 72 x 42 builder oval tub to a 60 x 32 tub with a wide deck on the side to sit on as a bench. I feel that the water cools down more quickly in my acrylic tub versus cast iron so I plan on insulating my new tub. I am going to go with the drop in Mirabelle Bradenton because it is very deep and has a short basin - I am 4'10". I was looking at the Mirabelle Provincetown but it is too long inside and the Mirabelle Edenton is wider but is also too long for me. The Mirabelle tubs are deeper than the Kohler tubs. I tried the Mirabelle Edenton 66 x 36 tub at the Ferguson showroom. I would love to get the 60 x 36 model because it is shorter inside than the 60 x 32, but it requires a lot of water to reach the overflow depth. I like the acrylic on the Mirabelle tubs better than the Kohler tubs. My brother has the Kohler Bancroft in his new house and it is a very nice deep tub, but still too long for me and it only comes with an apron. So this is some of the details I thought through in order to make my decision.

I will remodel my second bathroom next year and plan to replace the builder Bootz porcelain on steel tub with the cast iron Kohler Bellwether. I tried it out at Ferguson and it is similar to the Bancroft but more shallow. I use that bath for guests to take a shower and. I also use it to bathe my dogs and need the cast iron tub to stand up to their toenails. If guests want to take a deeper bath they can use my master.

I really love the Kohler cast iron shower pans.

This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Sat, Dec 14, 13 at 16:27

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clipped on: 06.07.2014 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2014 at 05:51 pm

RE: FAQ/Answers Bathroom Plumbing for dummies (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mongoct on 06.25.2008 at 09:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Let me know if this is the sort of info you're looking for, if it's too basic, or not inclusive enough. It's a rough first draft and can be edited as required:

The sort of where, what, and why of pressure-balanced versus thermostatic:
Pressure-balanced or thermostatic temperature control valves are code-required in bathroom plumbing because they eliminate potential scalding and cold water shocks that can occur in a shower.

If you are using the shower and a toilet is flushed, as the toilet uses cold water to refill the tank, the pressure in the cold water line drops a bit below what it was when just the shower was running. If you had a non-balancing valve, you�d still get the same amount of hot water that you originally were getting, but with the drop in pressure in the cold water line you�d have less cold water coming out of your shower head, creating a potential for scalding. Vice-versa, if someone turns on a hot-water faucet elsewhere in the house, the hot water pressure drops and you get a shower of mostly cold water.

A pressure-balanced shower valve is designed to compensate for changes in water pressure. It has a mechanism inside that moves with a change in water pressure to immediately balance the pressure of the hot- and cold-water inputs. These valves keep water temperature within a couple degrees of the initial setting. They do it by reducing water flow through either the hot or cold supply as needed. Because pressure balanced valves control the temp by reducing the flow of water through the valve, if your plumbing supply is already struggling to keep up with the three shower heads and nine body sprays that you have running in your shower, if a pressure balancing valve kicks in and chokes down the water supply to keep you from getting scalded you could end up with insufficient water flow out of the heads in a multiple shower head setup. When it comes to volume control, in terms of being able to turn on the water a little or a lot, for the most part pressure-balanced valves are full-on when water is flowing or full-off when the valve is closed. Flow-wise, think of them as having no middle ground.

Where flow and volume control are important, as in a shower that requires a high volume of water, a thermostatic valve may be the better choice. They also control the temperature, but they do not reduce the amount of water flowing through the valve in doing so. Thermostatic valves are also common with 3/4" inlets and outlets, so they can pass more water through the valve than a 1/2" pressure balancing valve.

Which should you choose?
In a larger multi-outlet master shower, while a 1/2" thermostatic valve may suffice, a 3/4" thermostatic valve might be the better choice. But it does depend on the design of your shower and the volume of water that can be passed through your houses supply lines. In a secondary bathroom, or in a basic master where you have only one head, or the common shower head/tub spout diverter valve, a 1/2" pressure balancing valve would be fine.

If you want individual control and wanted multiple valves controlling multiple heads, then you could use multiple 1/2" valves instead of one 3/4" valve and all would be just fine.

What do the controls on the valve actually control?
While it may vary, a pressure balanced valve is normally an "all in one" valve with only one thing you can adjust�the temperature. The valve usually just has one rotating control (lever or knob) where you turn the water on, and by rotating it you set the water to a certain temperature. Each time you turn the valve on you�ll have to set it to the same spot to set it to your desired temperature. For the most part you really don�t control the volume, just the temperature. With the valve spun a little bit, you'll get 100% flow but it will be all cold water. With the valve spun all the way, you�ll get 100% flow, but it will be all hot water. Somewhere int eh middle you�ll find that Goldilocks "just right" temperature, and it�ll be at�you guessed it�100% flow. So with a pressure balancing valve, you control the temp, but when the valve is open, it�s open.

A thermostatic valve can be all inclusive in terms of control (volume and temp) or just be temperature controlling. If it�s just temperature controlling, you will need a separate control for volume or flow. Example, with an all inclusive you�ll have two "controllers" (knobs or levers) on the valve, one to set the temperature and a separate one to set the volume. In this case you can set the temp as you like it, then use the volume control lever to have just a trickle of Goldilocks water come out of the valve, or you can open it up and have full flow of Goldilocks water coming out of the valve. You can leave the temp where you like it when you turn the volume off after you�re done showering. The next time you shower, turn the volume on, the temperature is already set. Some thermostatic valves are just temperature valves with no volume control. You�ll need another valve/control to set the volume. Read the product description carefully to see what you're getting.

What size valve should I get?
Yes, valves actually come in different sizes. The size refers to the size of the inlet/outlet nipples on the valve. For a basic shower, a 1/2" valve will suffice. For a larger multi-head arrangement, a 3/4" valve would be better. Realize that you�ll need a water heater that can supply the volume of heated water you want coming out of the heads, so don�t forget that when you build or remodel. Also realize that if you�re remodeling and have 1/2" copper running to your shower, capping 1/2" copper supply tubing with a 3/4" valve provide you with much benefit as the 1/2" tubing is the limiting factor. You can, however, cap 3/4" supply tubing with a 1/2" valve or a 3/4" valve.

Is one better than another?
Thermostatic valves are "better" in that with them you can control both volume of flow and temperature, so you have more control, and they hold the temperature to a closer standard (+/- 1 degree). They also perform better if you are running multiple outlets in the shower, as they do not choke down the amount of water in order to control the temperature. But you pay for that added flow and added control. Pressure balancing valves can be had for about $100-$200, thermostatic valves can be twice that amount. And more.

Will I suffer with a pressure-balancing valve?
For what it�s worth, when I built my house over 10 years ago I put pressure-balancing valves in my own house. While I have two outlets in my shower (sliding bar mounted hand-held on the wall and an overhead 12" rain shower head on the ceiling), I have a two separate pressure-balancing valves, one valve for each head. With both heads going in the shower, I notice no loss of flow in the shower when the toilet is flushed and the sink faucet is turned on simultaneously. I also notice no change in temperature. So they work for me.

If you are remodeling, if you have your existing sink running and you flush the toilet and notice a drop in volume coming out of the sink, then a thermostatic valve might be the better choice even if you're not having a multi-head setup installed.

If, as part of the remodel, you plan on running new supply lines through your house to the new bath, then properly sized runs will take care of that flow restriction and you can probably do a pressure balancing valve instead of a thermostatic.

So in a house with tricky plumbing, or with a restricted water supply, or with multiple outlets running off of one supply valve, a thermostatic valve might be the safer choice.

Mongo

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clipped on: 06.07.2014 at 05:44 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2014 at 05:44 pm

RE: Ideas for new vanity and linen cabinet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: may_flowers on 01.07.2013 at 10:51 am in Bathrooms Forum

I found the photo of the Kraftmaid freestanding cabinets. I think I'd have to do a 15" linen cabinet in order to leave space between it and the vanity. Is that size linen cabinet practical?

I also like the stain color.


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clipped on: 01.08.2013 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2013 at 05:52 pm

RE: Need help with tub-shower layout (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dekeoboe on 12.09.2012 at 08:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Most of the pictures I have seen of this type of layout, the area is in an alcove, so the shower controls can be on a different wall from the shower head. When you have two open sides, this is more difficult. Your layout number two would allow you to put the controls on the left wall. But, I think it makes the room look more open if the tub is against a wall. How about something like this, but with the door on the right side?

This post was edited by dekeoboe on Sun, Dec 9, 12 at 20:42


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clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 10:31 am

RE: Sharing my Bathtub Research (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cat_mom on 12.03.2012 at 02:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

FWIW, we have two Toto 1525 cast iron tubs with no-slip grips on the bottom, as well as a Kohler cast iron shower pan with no-slip on the bottom as well. Ours look as clean and white as the day we got them, and they really aren't difficult to clean.

Every week to two weeks I clean-clean the tubs (we wipe ours out with a paper towel after showering to get rid of loose hair, or errant blobs of shaving cream, or conditioner). I spray with Lysol aerosol bathroom spray, let sit (for however long it takes me to clean the sink, toilet, tub surround), re-spray if needed, and then clean it off with hot water from the tub filler faucet, and a wet microfiber cloth. That's it.

If the no-slip grips do happen to look grimy (very dirty bare feet will sometimes leave smudges, as will the bottoms of rubber soled work boots worn by someone working on the plumbing or tile), I will take a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, dampen it, and go over the floor of the tub with it (usually a light rub is all it needs, occasionally it takes a slightly stronger touch).

To address the height/stepping into the tub "issue", you can have the tub "recessed" into your floor. Our plumber told DH to use thicker plywood for the second layer of sub-flooring, after the tub went in, so the sub-floor under the tub ended up being a little lower than the floor surrounding the tub when all was said and done. This way, the step into/out of the tub is easier.

HTH!


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clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:22 am    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 10:22 am

RE: Do you think a seat is important in a shower? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 12.10.2012 at 10:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We definitely went with a bench and are happy we did...we put the handheld on the side wall closer to the bench and the regular shower head opposite the bench. It definitely comes in handy for storing shampoos, even though we also have corner shelves in the shower. It is perfect for shaving legs, sitting on to wash one's feet (esp in the summer, I'm a perpetual bare footer and I like to just go into the shower and sit on the bench and use the handheld to wash just my feet before going to bed). We have our shower surround out of corian and made the bench to match...corian is much warmer than granite. Our shower is also a steam shower so having the bench is a necessity in order to steam. I added a light under the bench so we can steam in soft light, not the bright overhead one. I also wouldn't want to mess with a seat that folds up and down and deal with the mechanism, esp since, now that I have the seat in the shower, I literally use it every shower.


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clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 10:11 am

RE: shower doors for a standard alcove tub? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 02.14.2012 at 09:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We did on both our guest baths. It does not make them seem like a cage. It is very open and looks very nice. The doors have to be custom though so it was not inexpensive to do.

guest bath

j&J bath


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clipped on: 03.27.2012 at 05:57 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2012 at 05:57 pm

RE: Shower Niches - what did you do (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: treasuretheday on 03.26.2012 at 03:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My perfect place for a niche(s) is, as much a possible, out of the spash zone and out of sight from the main room. We put two in ours... one tall two-shelf niche and one in the pony wall.

Photobucket

Photobucket


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clipped on: 03.27.2012 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2012 at 05:48 pm

RE: How deep is too deep for a tub/shower combo? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.31.2012 at 11:49 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our plumber told us to "sink" the tub in the floor a bit by installing the tub on the first layer of plywood subfloor, and then installing the next layer of plywood up to the tub. This way the tub sits a little lower relative to the finished/tiled floor than it would have. I can see this being a big plus as we age. We use our tub/shower combos daily, and love then.


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clipped on: 03.27.2012 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2012 at 05:47 pm

Forgot to mention... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: metaxa on 05.01.2010 at 09:13 am in Home Repair Forum

Forgot to mention:

Use 4 inch, solid pipe, not the 3 inch stuff and glue your joints, not just friction fit them.


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clipped on: 05.03.2010 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 05.03.2010 at 08:53 am

RE: Toto G-Max or E-Max toilet flushing system? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jacobse on 04.07.2010 at 07:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Are all the flushes the same (e-max, g-max, dual cyclone) as far as getting rid of "stuff"?

Ah, well that's the big question. I don't think there's any definitive answer to that. Even the Maximum Performance (MaP) tests you may read about online, which aim to be unbiased, have built in biases in the size, shape, and consistency of the dummy waste they use for testing. So I don't think there is a clear-cut answer.

G-Max came first, and was the first in the industry to use a 3" wide flush valve instead of the industry-standard 2"; that design allowed water to get into the toilet more quickly and to exit more forcefully. E-Max came next, as the industry needed to respond to demand to create High Efficiency Toilets, particularly in some areas of the country; the EPA WaterSense standard established the threshold of 20% less water use, or 1.28 gallons. The E-Max used the same technology as the G-Max, with some tweaks to optimize performance with 20% less water. Double Cyclone is Toto's latest, using the same 1.28 gallon flush but with a different approach of two wide nozzles pushing water under the rim into a cyclone motion instead of the traditional rim holes.

When I several times contacted Toto to essentially ask "which is best", I got some non-committal "it depends what you are looking for" replies, but also got one customer service rep who said unequivocally: "Our double cyclone flushing system is our best system. It is more powerful, even though it is a 1.28gpf, and it cleans the bowl better. G-max is a good system as well but our double cyclone is the best." (Of course, Toto can't officially state this as gospel, since they are still selling all three types of toilets, but if you look on the Toto web site page explaining flushing systems, it's interesting to note that Dual Cyclone is at the top, followed by E-Max and Dual-Max, with the older G-Max at the bottom.)

But can 1.28 gpf really be better than 1.6 gpf? How? According to toilet manufacturers, improvements in toilet design permit newer 1.28 gpf toilets to to save water without loss of flushing power. Some 1.28 gpf toilets are as good as, or perform better than, older 1.6 gpf toilets because of improvements achieved through computer-aided design which wasn't available in the past.

Unfortunately, my conclusion was that this is about as definitive as you can get. Some toilets may do slightly better at volume of waste removal, while others might excel at washing debris from the bowl -- and different consumers may value these things differently, without one toilet being clearly "better than" another. The feedback from most Toto owners is very positive, which I found very helpful in making my decision, but we have to bear in mind that the owner of a 5-year-old Toto cannot compare/contrast the current models we new toilet purchasers are considering today.

-- Eric


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clipped on: 04.27.2010 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 04.27.2010 at 09:24 am

RE: Finished Kitchens Blog (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 04.15.2010 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

From the "Read Me" thread...

When your kitchen is complete, please submit it to the Finished Kitchens Blog! This way your kitchen will join others in inspiring and helping newcomers!

Add your kitchen to the FKB!

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!


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clipped on: 04.16.2010 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 04.16.2010 at 11:03 am

RE: Cast iron tubs over 17 ' in height? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: squarefour on 12.04.2009 at 10:18 am in Bathrooms Forum

Is the five and a half foot Kohler Tea for Two an option? It is cast iron and has a wonderful 19 and 1/2 inch water depth. It has an optional tile flange so you can push it right up to the wall and perhaps use a small tile apron on the outside.

The 5 foot Archer is acrylic but nice Kohler quality and available with an apron. It is 19 inches high with a 15 inch water depth.

I've been fascinated by the cast iron Kohler Highbridge which is not a big tub but is displayed in the Kohler showroom with a small custom storage cubby under each end of the apron lip. More of a modern look.

I mention Kohler because we live near the showroom and we have been testing out tubs (fully clothed, no water!) for our build. We do not work for them.

Good luck with this. A bathtub decision is one of several that have slowed down our build. Hence too much time in the showroom. I hope you find something that you enjoy.

Liz

Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Highbridge


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RE: Cast iron tubs over 17 ' in height? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sweetgumacres on 12.03.2009 at 10:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I was shopping for kitchen faucets today and picked up a brochure for Victoria and Albert freestanding tubs. They have a drop in tub, the Freedom, that's 64.5" long and 26" tall with a 18" water depth. They aren't cast iron, and there were none in stock, but they had a sample of the material, "a blend of limestone and resins," and it felt similar to quartz countertops. Supposedly good for retaining heat. Anyway, this doesn't really sound like it fits your needs, but didn't want to rule it out for you!

Here is a link that might be useful: Victoria + Albert bathtubs


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RE: 3d tile from Heath Ceramics and others (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 04.08.2010 at 10:35 am in Kitchens Forum

I love those tiles. And I watch Castle too.

There is this "Tribal" tile, have no idea how much it costs.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tribal Tile


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RE: Help! How to upload pictures? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: blessedathome on 03.03.2010 at 07:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I recently emailed tech support and this is the link they emailed me. I certainly found it very helpful! Good luck with your posting. :o)

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/test/gal080858233293.html


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RE: Looking for pics dark grout & 5x5 or 4x4 white tile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: segbrown on 02.26.2010 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine are bigger, 6x8, but I do have dark grout. Since no one else has answered yet, ...

Photobucket

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RE: What Are Your Favorite Kitchen (And Home Design) Magazines? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cawaps on 02.25.2010 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I read the Fine Homebuilding Kitchen and Bath issues and This Old House. I used to buy Inspired House (or Inspired Home?) from Taunton Press, but by the time I got around to subscribing, they stopped publishing. Great publication, based on the "Not So Big House" concept of Susan Susanka. So if you can find vintage issues of that, I'd highly recommend it.


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RE: Yellowing Underarms on White Shirts (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 08.19.2006 at 10:02 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

AS SEEN ON TV: Oxyclean works great! Wal-Mart has another brand of the same "oxy" type cleaner called Sun for about half the Oxyclean price or less. The powder dissolves in VERY hot water to make hydrogen peroxide bubbles. It is the hydrogen peroxide that cleans the clothes so you have to soak them for a few hours for the best results. I reclaimed t-shirts I had not worn since college with that stuff. My wife reclaimed yellowed drapery and old yellowed tablecloths. The stuff is amazing. One last anecdote...my neighbor's little girl was continually staining her brand new clothes with food, and the neighbor kept giving them to us for my daughter. THEY WERE BRAND NEW! I soaked them in the Sun stuff and they were exactly like new. My neighbor noticed and asked me how we got them clean, so I told her. That ended the hand-me-downs.

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clipped on: 02.23.2010 at 08:21 am    last updated on: 02.23.2010 at 08:21 am

4 Finished Bathrooms!

posted by: robinst on 02.13.2010 at 02:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I thought I would share our finished bathrooms. They actually still need a little more work, but they are finished enough for now. We remodel three bathrooms and added a new one (labelled master bath).

Kids Bath
Kids Bath

Guest Bath
Guest Bath Vanity

Guest Bath Shower

Powder Room
Powder Room

Master Bath
Master Bath

Master Bath

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Master Bath

Master Bath Shower

Shower Seat - Master

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RE: More storage questions... (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: zelmar on 01.18.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

My pantry is 36" wide but due to the frames, the pull outs are only 24.5" wide (interior). They hold a lot of weight. I believe the glides are rated for 100#. You can check with your cabinet company about the rating for the pull outs. My pull outs do rub against the doors sometimes but after 4 1/2 years they only show slight marks that can be rubbed away with my fingers.

Our pull outs are more like interior drawers---with the advantage that they can be separated as much as I want to accommodate taller items. I could add something (i.e. a stiff piece of cardboard) to the backs of the can storage pull outs to keep the cans from toppling off the back but I've solved the problem by not stacking cans in the back-most rows. I really like the pictures above (desertsteph's and buehl's) with the shallow pullouts and cans on their sides--it looks really easy to see the labels.

Here's our can storage:

Photobucket Photobucket

Here's the base roll out in our baking cabinet. I have them adjusted so that the stacked panini press and electric griddle just clear the pull out above. The pile of pie plates in the upper pull out usually goes a bit higher. The stack is very stable and I have no worries about them toppling. Picture on the right shows the adjustment holes (upper portion of baking cabinet.) The door doesn't have any rub marks.

Photobucket Photobucket

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RE: What Vacuum Cleaner Should I Get? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: capecodder on 02.13.2010 at 11:32 am in Appliances Forum

I bought a Miele Callisto too, 2 weeks ago, for $799. Store threw in bags too. If you search on this site, you'll find lots of reviews of the different brands. I've had 2 top level Kenmores, and they were okay new, but I became very unhappy. The noise drove me nuts. Good luck!

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RE: Shelf above range: what size? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 01.19.2010 at 06:29 am in Kitchens Forum

What about the stainless shelf IKEA sells? It's 31" long (but since you aren't using upper cabinets that won't matter) and 10" deep. Since it's not solid, it does not block the airflow to the hood at all. I installed mine so that the brackets are flush with the face of the drywall so I could tile over the brackets. I love the look! IKEA sells hooks so you can hang stuff from it as well.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA shelf

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clipped on: 02.12.2010 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2010 at 01:51 pm

RE: can you give advice on what to put here? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 01.05.2010 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

How about a nice stainless shelf from IKEA? they only cost around $15 and are very sturdy. I usually keep my tea pot sitting on mine, unless I have something under my hood's warming lights. I installed mine before the tile so the mounting brackets would be hidden.

Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA shelf

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RE: Backsplash and soapstone question-AGAIN (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: sweeby on 02.10.2010 at 04:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Creamy crackle subways with soapstone is a classic -- least I think so.
Of course, that's what I have... (WZ Gramercy Park in Bone China)

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 07:06 pm

The Best Way to Clean Various Surfaces (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2010 at 12:49 am in Kitchens Forum

OK, this is what we have so far...


  • Granite & Quartz: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Hand dish detergent & water (go light on the detergent if your stone is dark)
    • "Method" granite cleaner & polish
    • "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B)
    • **Warning** Don't use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink

    Question: Do those of you with marble use the alcohol/water mix, detergent/water mix, Method, or Perfect Kitchen?

  • Stainless Steel Appliances: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • Weiman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can
    • 3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray)

  • Stainless Steel Sinks:
    • Mild detergent & water
    • BarKeeper's Friend (it will also help minimize the look of scratches on the bottom of a sink)

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed):
    • Mild detergent & water
    • **Warning** Don't install a nickel strainer or drain (stick with Stainless Steel or Chrome)
    • **Warning** Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • **Warning** Don't use bleach on nickel

  • Ceramic/Glass cooktops/ranges:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food

  • Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • Hot water should be all you need for most of the time.
    • If you need a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.
    • Do not use vinegar or vinegar-containing products. Vinegar works by eating away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time.

  • Non-Ceramic/Glass top ranges/cooktops:
    • "Perfect Kitchen" for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges

  • Hardwood Floors:
    • Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner

  • Slate Floors:
    • TBD

  • Slate Backsplashes:
    • TBD

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RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.10.2010 at 11:03 am in Kitchens Forum

Buehl, can you add:

3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray) to the SS cleaner list? Roccocogurl had recommmended it way back, and I've been using it with good results ever since. It's rated by the NFST (?) as being safe to use in food prep areas, too.

Also, "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B) works well for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges, and it cleans our granite beautifully. It's residue-free so doesn't leave streaks and smudges like some of the others I'd tried. Little to NO scent, which is a plus in my book as well.

Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner for HW floors.

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 01:08 pm

RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: buehl on or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers in Kitchens Forum

To start...

  • Granite...microfiber cloth along with one of the following:
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Method granite cleaner & polish
    • Don't use plumber's putty on your marble
      or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers

  • Stainless Steel...microfiber cloth along with one of the following:
    • Weisman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed)...
    • Mild detergent & water
    • Don't install a nickel strainer
    • Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • Don't use bleach on nickel

  • Glass oven top:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 01:07 pm

RE: Flour / Sugar storage (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: plllog on 02.10.2010 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I use round ClickClacks, but OXO pop have just as good a seal with squarish sides. They are both really air tight. The rectangular ClickClacks aren't. I love being able to see through the sides.

If you want to store more than 5 lb., King Arthur Flour catalog has "flour buckets".

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RE: Flour / Sugar storage (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: corgimum on 02.10.2010 at 07:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I store flour in the refrigerator in a Lock & Lock tall square canister. It holds a 5 lb. bag and fits in the door. Sugar, Brown Sugar, Confectioner's Sugar, Rice and Noodles are stored on the top shelf of a wall cabinet in Snapware.

I bought them at Wal-Mart and Target.

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RE: Flour / Sugar storage (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: warmfridge on 02.10.2010 at 05:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I use the 5-lb. flour canisters from King Arthur Flour for regular flour, whole wheat flour, etc, and some slightly smaller ones from Tupperware for sugar.

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RE: Flour / Sugar storage (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kareneg on 02.10.2010 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I use snapware containers. I think I bought at BB&B. I use the tall/slim rectangle for 5# flour/sugar. The website below has all the different types with sizes--h x w x d and how many cups they hold.

-karen

Here is a link that might be useful: Snapware containers

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 01:03 pm

RE: Flour / Sugar storage (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: daki on 02.10.2010 at 09:53 am in Kitchens Forum

I ended up with some sort of weevil or bug in my pantry (probably from rice). After throwing everything out, I now use large glass Fido jars with bail lids. I think I have the 4 liter one and it holds a 5lb bag. Plastic containers are more practical, but I like the look of old fashioned real glass :).

I also have several of the Oxo pop containers and some click clack ones. Of those, I like the way the Oxo lids work.

Here is a link that might be useful: glass jars

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 01:01 pm

RE: What do you line your drawers / shelves with? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: julie94062 on 02.10.2010 at 11:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

(Love the kitties!)

I used LifeLiners from Bed, Bath & Beyond. They're clear plastic (so you can see the inside of your new cabinets!) and ribbed on one side. I just cut to size and most stay put. On the uppers, I put tiny pieces of double sided tape on the corners so that it doesn't catch when you're putting things away. It lays nice and flat.

LifeLiner

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clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 12:48 pm

RE: Looking for a new long-slot 4-slice toaster...Anyone have one (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: piaa on 02.09.2010 at 12:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Please let me know if you like the Haier - some Amazon will ship here.

Piaa

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