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RE: how to get this to-die-for gray-stained effect? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: CEFreeman on 04.30.2014 at 10:49 am in Kitchens Forum

Greenhaven, you'll laugh at me more.
It's all about me being cool, picky, and having no life. (I believe I alluded to that once or twice! :) Get some coffee & sit down. You're going to be sorry you asked!

Here you go:

Chippy Paint Method #1. (Least labor intensive and most interesting):
Put your item in the yard, in the sun for a year or so.
Ignore it. Turn a deaf ear to it's whining and screaming about rain and sun. Ok, I had to glue a bunch of veneer back down, but that antique stuff is almost 1/8" thick and took a beating well. I have pictures. The expose wood on these doors grayed into the exact beautiful finish we've been discussing in this thread. You can't beat nature!

With this method, I actually decoupaged over the chips, because they were SO chippy. Then I used my el-cheapo yet brilliant matte finish which succeeded in gluing them down without being visible.

Chippy Paint Method #2.
Take that drywall tape that's a yellow adhesive mesh. Press it down firmly, smoothing with a credit card or something to adhere it WELL to the wood. (I left this outside in the heat for awhile, to ensure it was really stuck.)
Then, either paint it with a nice, thick paint. Homemade chalk paint or pour some latex paint into a bowl and let it thicken by drying. Stirring every so often so it doesn't get a skim on it. When the paint is almost dry, slowly peel off the drywall mesh. Whoooaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh (Picture below.)
or
Chippy Paint Method 2b.
Paint it with Citristrip. It'll bubble the paint then dry out. Once it's dry, carefully peel off the drywall mesh. Whoaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh..

Chippy Paint Method #3.
I took a wide bristle brush. The throw-away kind. I trimmed the bristles to look somewhat like a comb. (A comb didn't work.)

Thin Citristrip with some water and almost drybrush this onto a horizontal surface. Experiement with how thick to make the Citristrip, because humidity and heat will make it behave differently. If it's too thick, it'll go on like egg white (or the less P.C. term: snot.) Too thin and it'll dry before it does any work on the paint.

Chippy Paint Method #4.
Either using the original paint layer as a base or painting your own color first, put that same drywall mesh on your piece & press it down.
Carefully, so as not to move the mesh, smooth baby or mineral oil, Vaseline, or wax onto the tape. Blot it if you're using an oil or Vaseline. Wait until it looks like it's drying and pull the mesh off carefully. Paint it with anything you want. When dry, use a scraper to gently remove the resisted paint. You could sand, too, if you'd prefer.
I used my matte finish again.

This mesh is magic. You can stretch it diagonally to change the shape of the chips. You can use it over other paint methods. I also used it over Elmer's glue crackle, the Behr and Martha Stewart's crackle, and my own craqueleur concoction. (For the latter, read pennies vs., $$$.) IOW, you can layer the heck out of this as is, or with different resists and stains, and it continues to look great!
I told you I've been playing with this for a long while!

Oh - my matte finish also dries in a manner that you can't see what topcoat is on the chips. i.e. you can't see some satin sealer gummed up on them. They look like they're ready to fall off. But NOT! [waving arms wildly] BRILLIANT!

Are you sorry you asked yet?

NOTES:

distressing wood
clipped on: 10.14.2014 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 10.14.2014 at 12:13 am

RE: pretty sure undermount sink is coming down! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Trebruchet on 10.07.2014 at 02:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

alex9179:

You didn't say whether or not your bathroom sink is ceramic or stainless. The HUSH manufacturer recommends use on ceramic only, but I've used it successfully on the stainless bowl as pictured. You've got to secure it a bit off center to accommodate the overflow, but that has no effect on performance.

NOTES:

hercules sink harness
clipped on: 10.07.2014 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2014 at 10:52 pm

Not getting what you want....

posted by: trailrunner on 09.21.2013 at 10:23 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here is a link to a wonderful Dhamma talk. Give yourself the 14 1/2 minutes ,a gift to you. I will also link to the webpage where you can peruse more talks etc. DH and I meditate daily and have attended retreats. There is nothing new here but sometimes it helps to "hear" when thoughts or ideas are expressed once again by a new voice. c

http://www.dhammatalks.org

Here is a link that might be useful: No getting what you want...

NOTES:

listen
clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 10:36 pm

RE: How do others treat their stainless sinks? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Trebruchet on 09.26.2014 at 05:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Spray it with Stainless Steel Magic. It makes the water bead up nicely.

NOTES:

cleaning stainless steel sink
clipped on: 09.26.2014 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2014 at 11:32 pm

RE: It's December 2013. How is your build? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: dutty on 12.04.2013 at 10:45 pm in Building a Home Forum

mrsfireman Yes... Westhighland White is so gorgeous. Nothing compared to it on the exterior. :) I'm happy you're loving it! The interior white is SW Pearly White. I love it... not to harsh, warm but still "white".

We are doing custom wood doors. We have too many hacks to use the IKEA doors. Then they'll be painted on site.

akshars mom The Stages sink is actually fitting in a 36" and 18" cabinet put together. We have a trash pullout in the 18" so we have the shallow ledge sitting over that and the main basin fits within the 36". If you're doing frameless cabinets, I definitely think the sink would fit... even if you had to trim a bit off the top edge/side it wouldn't effect the integrity of the cabs. We obviously had to trim the top edge to make the sink span the cabinets and the installers didn't seem to think it was a problem at all.

Untitled

aktillery and sanctuary girl I'm in SW Florida so aluminum windows are kinda all you can get due to hurricane codes. Vinyl and wood are either too much maintenance or ridiculously expensive. These are PGT impact rated windows. We actually used only three sizes across the whole house 24" x 76" (the ones you like), 48 x 76, and little 24 x 24 portal windows. They are single hung (I was bummed we couldn't swing double hung in the budget) but I really like them. Here you can see them from the outside… our architect was worried that the single windows would look too much like a commercial building but I'm glad I stuck to my guns cause I love them.

Untitled

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 09:26 am

RE: Need help choosing backsplash - pics included! (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: PurpleEyes on 08.03.2014 at 12:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you like the variegated tile, you can also look at Grazia Melange. Here's a bad picture of my backsplash, but hopefully you can see my point with the variation:

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 10:33 pm

Ikea Butcher Block - Only Birch Available

posted by: SBurg22 on 09.11.2014 at 09:17 am in Kitchens Forum

It looks like only the birch butcher block is currently available. Is the birch more red than the beech? We do not want the red tone.

It seems like the beech is more popular. Thoughts?

Also, we are looking to stain the block a dark color - is this doable on such a light colored wood?

Any recommendations of retailers who sale a block that would cover 38X60 for a comparable price?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.12.2014 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2014 at 06:27 pm

Getting more responses

posted by: buehl on 06.26.2013 at 01:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Recently, I have been asked by a couple of members how to go about getting more responses to threads - especially layout threads.

There are a few factors involved in getting responses:

  • Weekends, especially summer weekends, are usually not very active here - especially if it takes any time to respond. I recommend posting during the week and late afternoon/early evening Eastern time so your thread is on page 1 and will be seen by more people - especially those just stopping by for a few minutes after work and b/f making dinner or heading out for the evening. After dinner can also be a good time...
  • Layouts with dimensions that are difficult to read. This has become even more problematical since iVillage/GW made their so-called improvements to the site. It's now difficult to post a large enough layout that is easy to read. If I have to open a layout image in another window and fiddle with resizing and then still not be able to read the dimensions, I often bag it and move on.

    Try uploading pictures (especially layouts) to Photobucket (or similar photohosting site) and posting the picture in the message from there instead of of using GW's image upload facility. Upload it to Photobucket in a bigger size and copy the "HTML Code" directly into the message.

    There's more information in the FAQs about posting pictures. I've linked to the FAQs for the Kitchens Forum below.

  • Some people don't read the "Layout Help" topic (again, see the FAQs) and post asking for help without giving us very much information about the poster's goals, family composition, plans for using the space,etc. Trying to design a kitchen in a vacuum of knowledge can be frustrating and can lead to "generic" kitchens.
  • Often, layouts don't have enough information for us to work with. A full set of dimensions is very helpful! (See the "Layout Help" FAQs topic).
  • Another deterrent is a poster who does not at least acknowledge those who have responded. Even if you don't like the response, at least acknowledge it. There have been many times in the past when I spent a couple of hours (or more) working on a layout for someone and they never responded or responded to others and completely ignored what I did - no comments at all. While I don't expect (or want) gushing and over the top thank-yous, it would be nice to know (1) that the person read and reviewed what I did and (2) whether I produced something useful or if there were some things that I could change/tweak for them. "Silence is Golden" is definitely not a rule here!
  • Pictures! Pictures are definitely worth a thousand words around here! When asking for advice on layouts, color combinations, problems, or just about anything else that has a "visual", post one or more pictures. We often need to see what you're talking about.
  • Post pictures - not links to pictures. It's much more convenient and easier for us to see the picture in the message than to have to go elsewhere to see it.
  • I also know that some of the regulars, like me, don't have the time we used to to respond with full-blown layouts or lengthy layout critiques...b/w family and job, my time has become very precious - and family comes b/f Kitchens! I do occasionally have time and will stop by...
  • Last, much as some might not like to hear it, we do often go the "extra mile" to respond to posters who have also been contributing on the Forum - even the "old timers" who aren't here that often anymore will probably get more responses - so take the plunge and start responding and helping others - it will help you in the end as well!


The very last piece of advice I have for newcomers is to read either one of the "Read Me" threads (they're all the same) or browse through the FAQs. The threads provide a more useful order of topics; those same topics are in the FAQs but in a different order. [I'm going to probably edit them to begin with #s or some such to force the order that makes most sense...but not tonight!]

Others may have additional advice - so please chime in!

Most recent "Read Me" thread still available: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0223003411849.html

Here is a link that might be useful: FAQs for the Kitchen's Forum

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 09:02 pm

Countertop Geology, Part 5: Marble, Quartzite and other Favorites

posted by: karin_mt on 01.14.2014 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is round five of the Great Rocks Thread!

Please post your rock questions here. I've copied the basic info about quartzite and marble here because this is the most frequent question.

Quartzite and marble are hopelessly (deliberately?) mixed up in the decorative stone industry. My point, aside from just loving rocks, is to help folks learn how to tell the difference between the two so you are not at the mercy of a sales rep when a multi-thousand dollar purchase hangs in the balance.

Quartzite is much harder than marble and will not etch when exposed to acids. You can tell the difference between quartzite and marble by doing the scratch test and the etch test.

Scratch Test
Take a glass bottle or a glass tile with you when you go stone shopping. Find a rough, sharp edge of the stone. Drag the glass over the edge of the stone. Press pretty hard. Try to scratch the glass with the stone.

Quartzite will bite right into the glass and will leave a big scratch mark.
Any feldspar will do the same. (Granites are made mostly of feldspar)

Calcite and dolomite (that's what marble and limestone are made of) will not scratch. In fact you will be able to feel in your hand that the rock won't bite into the glass. It feels slippery, no matter how hard you press.

PS - don't press so hard that you risk breaking the glass in your hand. You shouldn't need to press that hard!

Etch Test
Etching is when the surface of a rock is dissolved from acids like lemon juice, vinegar, wine, etc. It is the primary bummer about using marble in a kitchen. Etching is most noticeable on polished rocks. Etching is not prevented by sealers, no matter what you hear from the sales rep!

Doing the etch test is simple: bring home a sample of the rock and put lemon juice or vinegar on it. Even after a few minutes the results are usually obvious. Etched areas look duller and are discolored compared to the rest of the slab.

Some people get conflicting results with these two tests, but normally anything in the marble family will not scratch glass and it will etch.

Quartzite and rocks in the granite family will scratch glass and will not etch.

For reference, here are links to the other rock threads, in which many types of rocks have been discussed.

Rocks 101: The Lowdown on Super White

Rocks 102: Marble, Quartzite and Other Rocks in the Kitchen

Rocks 103: Countertop Geology: Marble and quartzite and granite, oh my!

Rocks part 4, Marble, Granite, Quartzite

With that, let the rock conversations continue!
-Karin

NOTES:

update
clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 09.02.2014 at 10:41 pm

New Reveal (long) - Garage into Kitchen!

posted by: Lauraeds on 07.07.2014 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey all !

I finally managed to get photos taken of our new kitchen, which was finished just a few weeks ago. GW was a huge help ... I poured over post after post, gleaning info from everyone and really refining my vision.

It's a white, shaker-style kitchen, something I've always wanted after loving a previous deep wood/dark counters galley kitchen (old house), and after not-loving what this kitchen was (small, piecemealed, and grungy!)

The house is a beautiful old brick home from 1930, and the new kitchen is the old garage, which was attached on the western end of the home. Since we had to raise the floor (to meet up with the elevation of the rest of the home), we decided to blow out the two small rooms that were above the old garage, and take advantage of all the natural light provided through dormers, existing windows, and new windows and doors. This new kitchen has become the main "family entrance" to the house.

The old kitchen was the next room over, which you'll see now is much better suited with a pantry, office, and the three doorways and two stairways that mucked it up before!

Obviously, it's still a work in progress ... the walls seem big and bare now, but I'm waiting for just the right things to display. The barstools need to be recovered, and you'll notice a small loveseat with some "placeholder" fabric draped over it!

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In hopes of orienting you, here I am standing in the old kitchen, looking into the new kitchen (old garage). The bay of windows over the sink is where the old garage carriage doors were. They were great old wood on hinges … we repurposed them into a cool fence on the far side of a new garage.

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Here we are looking out the front of the house. The two windows were original to the house (garage). Since we had to raise the floor significantly, they dip back behind the counter. I was certain I would drop things back there, but nothing so far (just dust!)

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The cedar beams appear much more reddish in color in this photo than in real life. Since we removed the second story (which contained 2 old-school servant bedrooms, more recently a tiny office and defunct playroom), we needed the support of steel plates and big beams to keep the house together!

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These gorgeous doors (bad photo, sorry), open back on themselves, creating a huge view out the back. We keep them secured, and just use the one on the right as our main entrance into the house from the garage and the backyard. It's a dream, in terms of traffic flow!

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Here I am standing further back in the old kitchen. The door on the left is small stairs leading to the basement, and used to be the only access to the old garage, which was three steps down. We blew the wall open to create the open flow you see.
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Here is our "mudroom" of sorts … a locker for each person. It's more than enough space for coats, backpacks, shoes, devices (plugs for everyone!), and now I'm just trying to train everyone to use them!!!

The lattice panel is hiding a mini-split HVAC system. Since this area has such different heat/cooling needs, which thought this to be the best bet. It's worked well so far, and there is a small quiet compresser out back.

Above that, you'll see a small glass rail and balcony …. it's the old entrance to the upstairs hallway that lead to the small rooms we removed. Again, the finish isn't quite so red IRL.

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View from the overlook.

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Prep sink

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A handy extra gleaned from GW. I suppose I should paint or finish it somehow!

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This is the old kitchen. Next to the desk is a fabulous pantry … I will show it off soon, I hope … it's a big, huge mess right now!

Thanks for reading and looking, and thanks for the advice given over the past 2 years!

DETAILS:

Cabinets: Custom Shaker, locally made. Ben Moore White Dove.

Pulls: Lewis Dolan, Lews Hardware Bar Pull Collection, Bar Knob in Brushed Brass, myknobs.com

Counter: White Moon Quartzite, honed, pencil round edge

Prep Sink: Kohler Napa Single Basin Cast Iron Bar Sink - White

Kitchen Sink: Kohler Riverby 33" Single Basin Under-Mount Enameled Cast-Iron ��" White

Prep & Kitchen Faucets: Delta Trinsic Pullout Spray Bar/Prep -Champagne Bronze
Floors: Oak 4” planks, custom stained to match existing floors in house

Island Pendants: Circa Lighting, Hicks Pendant Extra Large, Hand rubbed brass, Custom Length Added.

Above-window Sconces: Schoolhouse Electric, Isaac Sconce Long Arm, Brass

Between-window Sconces: Restoration Hardware, Library Sconce, Antique Brass

Range: GE Monogram, 48” dual-fuel with griddle and double ovens

Hood: Custom Cabinetry, GE Monogram 48” Insert

Refrigerator: GE Monogram, 36” Professional Built-In Bottom Freezer. Custom panel made.

Dishwasher: Existing Bosch

Microwave: Existing GE Profile

Bev Fridge: GE Monogram Stainless Steel Beverage Center

Walls: Ben Moore CSP 665 Cool Breeze In various degrees: 25% on walls, 75% and 100% on the ceiling/dormers

Cabinet & Desk Back Walls: BenMoore Slate Teal 2058-20

Range Backsplash Tile: Walker Zanger Studio Moderne, Petite Imperial, Ming Blue Gloss

Glass folding doors and over-sink windows: custom made, painted Benjamin Moore Wrought Iron, 2124-10

Here is a link that might be useful: The full kitchen revealed - more photos

This post was edited by Lauraeds on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 18:19

NOTES:

brass faucet & hardware, white sink
clipped on: 07.13.2014 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 09.02.2014 at 10:20 pm

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, have deeper base cabinets. Go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep and storing cereal bowls 2 deep instead of only 1 deep. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. No extra charge ! I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. WOW.
http://www.ultracraft.com/ Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show (traditional overlay shows the most of the cabinet box & frame, full overlay shows the least). The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ... http://www.hansoncustombuilders.com/questions3.html
And ...http://www.kraftmaid.com/learn/choose-right-cabinetry/door-overlays/

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible although not very common. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer.

  framed . . . . . . . . . . frameless
As catbuilder said, the useable space for inset would be the same, depending on which you use. In other words, it doesn't matter if the framed cabinet above on the left had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same no matter what door style was used on the framed cabinet. The inset is set into the face frame. Similarly, if the frameless on the right had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same for that cabinet. If they both had inset doors, you can see that the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer openings.
examples of inset ...

Inset in a framed cabinet box on left - inset door in a frameless box in middle - and inset with door and drawers in a frameless cabinet on right

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like (slab, raised panel, recessed panel, arched top, etc), the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes. My granite is Black Pearl.)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations ... including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? Solid wood face frames, door frames, door fronts, drawers ? Corner braces ? How thick are the sides, rear, drawers, shelving ? Warranty ? What hardware do they use (full extension glides/soft close) ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths (front to back dimension)
My bases are all 24" deep bases. The interior of the cabinet box is 23.25" deep (because of back wall panel). The drawer boxes are all 21" from front to back with 19.75" useable interior.

I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to more fully use the inside of the cabinet box. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I was already used to my drawers not pulling out for the back 4 inches anyway with the cabinets I already had. I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper (i.e. 27-30" deep instead of 24" deep standard) from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth fridge. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished two ways - by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a few inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is ordered larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer height combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9 or even 6.5-6.5-6.5-10.5, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just a few examples of size combinations !! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen the same so the drawers line up all the way around for a continuous horizontal line.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more interior height than framed would. They have undermount glides. You want to know how much clearance you have from the floor of the drawer up to the next drawer or the stile between the drawers (or interior cross brace if there is one).

On the 6-12-12 stacks, my useable interior drawer height/clearance is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so I wouldn't have to have my pots/pans stacked inside each other. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 clearance. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge. I have included some at the bottom of this post.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height/clearance is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top. Jakuvall addresses this below "Note that some brands use intermediate stretchers in frameless which take up 3/4" vertical clearance. If they do I always spec them to be removed.")

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height to top of counter. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame to come up with the full 36" to top of counter. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, compared to my loss of 1.25-2.25" each. But she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. Inset is a gorgeous look. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each. I went with the widest drawer bases that would fit in each spot.

 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" wide 3 drawer 6-12-12 with useable interior heights of 4, 10.5, 9.5 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds in drawer knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds casserole/baking/pie dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer. The 9.5" interior height on the bottom drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Smoothtop Electric Range w/Double ovens).
This stove is now available with an induction top(!) which is what I would have gotten if it had been available at the time WGI925C0BS http://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen-1/cooking-2/ranges-3/-[WGI925C0BS]-1021750/WGI925C0BS/

The 32" wide 3 drawer 6-12-12 with useable interior heights of 4, 10.5, 9.5 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were on their edges in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl) 16 guage stainless. LOVE !!! <3
This sink configuration is sooooo useful. The big side is 19x21.5x9 (23" diagonal) big enough for everything to lay flat in the bottom - cookie sheets, the broiler pan, my largest skillet with the extra long handle & a helper handle on the other side, the enormous canning/crab pot, etc, and its big & deep so the dirty dishes are hidden from view until its time to wash or go in DW. Then I also have the smaller right hand sink that is 16x10.5 perfect for washing dishes, the water fills up fast, & it's even big enough for my 8qt pots to fit in (single sinks take forever even to just get an inch or two of water over the grate, but with the double I can use the small side). When it's just a few things, I like to wash in the small side and lay out on the sink grid in the large side to drain. If it's more than a few items, they go in one of the dishwashers. And as a bonus ... both of the sink grids fit in the dishwasher ! No scrubbing those grid intersections by hand.

(I didn't have a straight down shot of my sink, above right is Buehl's sink)
You can get a sink with the same dimensions from MR Direct (models 509L or 509R)
http://www.mrdirectint.com/509l-offset-stainless-steel-kitchen-sink.html

Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, elec skillet, crockpot, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" wide 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 with useable interior heights of 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" wide 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 with useable interior heights of 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. As I said above, it is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner between the 17" and 36" drawer stacks is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

Weight of Drawer Contents
I will come back and fill this in later

ROTS
ROTS = Roll Out Tray Shelves, a.k.a. pullout shelves. As a general rule of thumb, I think drawers are better than ROTS. A ROTS pullout is just a drawer behind a door. With drawers, you just pull to open; with ROTS you have to open one or two doors, pull out the shelf, then to close push the tray back in, wait for it to close completely, then close the drawers. Sometimes you may ding your door hitting it on the ROTS, the doors have to be opened fully to be able to access it, and the shelf has to be pushed in fully to be able to close the door(s). With ROTS, sometimes things will fall off or over the shallow sides. With some manufacturers, cabinet with doors and ROTS may cost more than one with drawers. However, most ROTS are adjustable; drawers are not. But with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with/in them

Upper Cabinets
I will come back and fill in more on this in later
You can maximize your storage space in the kitchen by making your upper cabinets a little deeper ... from 13"-15" or more. I have some upper cabinets in my kitchen that are the standard 12" deep and others that are 15" deep. There are 4 items that will not fit in my 12" deep uppers so I am forced to keep them in the 15" deep uppers, even though the 12" cabinets are a more convenient location for those items. Also, my iced tea glasses will only fit 3 deep in the 12" cabinets, but will fit 4 deep in the 15" cabinets, with room to spare. The cereal bowls also fit 2 stacks deep in the 15" cabinets.

Over your fridge, have extra deep cabinets. The front of my fridge is even with the edge of my base cabinets and I ordered the uppers over it to come out as deep as the fridge & base cabinets. These uppers have one adjustable shelf.

Another thing I recommend is getting extra shelves for your cabinets. I have my lowest two shelves closest together, then the higher shelves a little further apart. The bottom 2 shelves hold things that are not very tall ... coffee cups, plates, short glasses, measuring cups, etc. This makes the bottom shelves very easy to reach, and the higher shelves are easier to reach as well because they aren't quite as high up. I'm only 5'2" and can pretty easily reach items on the 3rd shelf up in all of my cabinets. When you have your shelves as close together as they can be for the items you want to store there, you could very easily end up with a tall space leftover at the top of the cabinet. That's when an extra shelf or two would be great to store those seldom used items way up at the top. My cabinets are 42" tall and all have 4-6 shelves of storage.

left side of kitchen
6" wide broom pullout
2 cabinets over fridges 30.75w x 26h x 24d (wall recessed behind fridges, not cabinets)
1 full height cabinet 24w x 97.5h x 24d
1 cabinet 21w x 42h x 12d
30 wide hood
1 cabinet 7.5w x 42h x 12d
1 cabinet 40.5w x 42h x 12d
1 cabinet 15w x 42h x 12d

right side of kitchen
1 cabinet 39w x 42h x 12d
2 cabinets 39w x 45h x 15d
1 cabinet 36w x 42h x 12d with glass doors & 6"h wine rack at bottom

Handles / Knobs / Pulls
I know this is a subject that causes a lot of angst to people ... should you do all knobs, all handles, latches, mixed knobs & pulls, vertical or horizontal mount, all same size or mix sizes, mixing styles & finish, where to mount on the drawer/door face, etc ???

Here's what we did ... we went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are all 4" wide pulls. We maybe would have used different widths for the wider drawers, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

What I have found in the bazillion of kitchens posted on GW is there is no right way or wrong way. I have never seen a kitchen where I thought the handle choices someone made looked odd or bad. It's one of those things where they all look good.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize our drawer interiors. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40168
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.
http://www.google.com/search?q=lee+valley+dividers+site:gardenweb.com&tbm=isch

Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Plan it into the zones they will go in. Measure all of it and plan ahead how they will be stored (drawers/upper cabinets). You don't want tin foil or potholders to end up in the bottom of a tall drawer. And, you should know by now how I feel about my large skillets and too short of a drawer. ; ) From the FAQs that Buehl put together ... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg010523449014.html
Excellent information on organizing !!

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

Other ideas for vertical storage ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental Ocean front beach house in NC with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26. Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!! (send me a private message through My Page above if you are interested in renting or are just curious and would like a link to see more info & pictures of the home)

I'm sorry, didn't meant to hijack the thread with my insanely long post. : P

edited: mostly to decrease monster picture sizes thanks to GW changing their website coding, also clarified my wording on a couple things

This post was edited by angela12345 on Tue, May 13, 14 at 22:10

NOTES:

drawers & storage
clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 08:25 am

RE: How to get an excellent countertop fabrication and installati (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Trebruchet on 08.10.2014 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

"Are the best places (for seams) at the fronts and backs of sinks and the cooktop?"

It depends. You'll find reputable fabricators split on this issue.

"I have read so many posts about rusting rods, ragged edges, bad seams and other issues. Are rods always needed? If so, where?"

Rodding is old school and obsolete. Some very fragile stones may still need rodding, but it should be done with stainless steel or fiberglas and epoxy, never cold steel and polyester.

Seams prepared by a CNC machine or Seam Phantom will be superior to butted saw cuts. Many stones can be top polished which makes seams even more inconspicuous. Top polishing engineered stone is not recommended. Yet.

"Will there be a better outcome if certain machines, blades and tools are used in fabrication and installation? If so, which ones?"

Omni Cubed makes the Sink Hole Saver which makes rodding obsolete. Gorilla Grips are ubiquitous on installations, as you can remove the bow from a top before it's seamed. Yes, there are bows in stone and estone. Your fabricator may or may not use this equipment, but should at least be familiar with it

What questions should I ask potential fabricators to increase the likelihood of an excellent outcome?

Ask them "Why should I give you my business?" then listen carefully.

You should concern yourself with verifying your fabricator's reputation and building a relationship based on mutual trust. When you have that, the technical takes care of itself.

NOTES:

countertop seams
clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 10:39 pm

Recommendation where to purchase corbels

posted by: front on 08.03.2014 at 10:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do you have any recommendations on websites that I can buy corbels from?

NOTES:

corbels where to buy
clipped on: 08.04.2014 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 08.04.2014 at 08:14 am

RE: So...paint over stain over paint? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: spanky_md on 07.30.2014 at 08:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Probably too late for you, but for others reading this now and in the future, 3M makes a very affordable respirator that is both comfortable AND effective. I have the 3M 7500. With cartridges it's under $25, I think. I use solvents and spray adhesive all the time for work and finally got worried enough about my health that I broke down and bought one of these.

I never thought respirators were all that effective (and maybe they weren't, 30 years ago?). But DANG, I cannot smell a THING with this mask on. I mean seriously, I will be working along, la de da, no problem, and then I will take the mask off before leaving the room and the odor is overwhelming! I love it. I have kicked myself black and blue for not getting one years ago.

If you're going to do more than a little bit of work with solvents, get one. (No, i do not own 3M stock. I should.)

Here is a link that might be useful: 3M respirator

NOTES:

respirator
clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 09:14 am

White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison

posted by: kompy on 05.11.2012 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For my own personal use, I priced out a wall and base cabinet in a few of my cabinet lines to see where each line stood on price. These prices do not include any manufacturer promotions currently running. All include freight costs. I looked up...with a bit of difficulty, the prices of IKEA. I thought there would be more SKUs and doorstyles.

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 08:53 am

RE: Which Kitchen Faucet Did You Choose? - 3 (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: jellytoast on 03.09.2014 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Another Delta Trinsic here. Love everything about it. I didn't even consider the touch-free version ... I've been annoyed too often by the automatic faucets in public restrooms!

This post was edited by jellytoast on Sun, Mar 9, 14 at 12:01

NOTES:

brass faucet
clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 08:40 am

Correct sink installation? Hercules Universal Sink Harness Kit?

posted by: spartans99 on 07.16.2014 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

We are still debating between two countertops (soapstone vs steel rock granite - and yes, I know it's like apples and oranges - argh). However, I just purchased my Kraus 32" stainless sink last night and I am reading up on proper sink setting procedures . I am a little TKO on details like this, but I don't want to spend thousands of dollars and have problems after the fact.

So, all of that brings me to proper sink installation for an undermount sink. I have read we shouldn't be screwing the sink into the stone. I have also read we shouldn't just glue / epoxy the sink in place. The following link from Vermont Soapstone walks through a process with plywood build up in the sink base for the sink to rest in.

http://www.vermontsoapstone.com/discover/install_undermountsink.html

I have also read on this forum about the Hercules Universal Sink Harness kit. Do I need this in addition to, or instead of, the plywood build up as noted above?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

NOTES:

sink installation
clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 10:21 pm

Faucet Behind Sink???

posted by: mcfeatej on 02.17.2010 at 11:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi folks. We are in the midst of a kitchen remodel, and are having some difficulty picking a sink. We have a 29 inch sink cabinet, and want to get the biggest sink we can. The D-bowl seems to be best, but we don't like the look of the faucet in the corner... soooo, my question is: How big (deep) of a rectangular sink (outer diameter) can you use and still fit the faucet in the back? Kindred model KSS6U/9 is 19.25" deep; will a faucet fit behind it? Thanks in advance...

NOTES:

sink & faucet placement
clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 07:57 am    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 07:57 am

Loving my acid washed marble

posted by: mazy123 on 07.29.2012 at 07:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just wanted to post about acid washed marble since I couldn't find much info about it when I was making my marble decision. I got Carrara marble and the place that fabricated recommends an acid wash finish that basically pre etches the surface. Then they put four coats of sealer on it. I have had it for about two months and so far it has been great. No etches or staining yet. It is not shiny since the acid hones it and it has a different type of feel than just regular honed marble. I really like the feel of it and everyone that comes over can't stop touching it. Hope this helps anyone that might be thinking about marble.

NOTES:

extra honed marble
clipped on: 07.14.2014 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2014 at 10:38 pm

Custom Drawer Inserts

posted by: meyersdvm on 06.05.2013 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I learned about Wood Hollow's custom drawer inserts from this forum. I ordered from their eBay site last Wednesday and my drawer inserts arrived very well packaged yesterday.

I love that they match my wood drawer interiors and leave no wasted space. They are well made and very reasonably priced at $35 each for cutlery and utensil inserts and $25 for a fluted spice insert. My spice drawer is in a bank of base cabs that are only 18 inches in depth, so standard inserts would not have worked.

Spice drawer
Utensil drawer
Cutlery drawer

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutlery Insert

NOTES:

Wood Hollow co.
clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 10:24 pm

RE: Is quartzite really, really porous...or not? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sochi on 07.16.2011 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

I think all stone needs to be sealed doesn't it - light granites, etc? I said that it needed to be sealed properly as some people on GW had problems with water stains or absorption with a certain kind of sealant. There was a long thread on this a few months back. I think the light quartzites demand a silicone based sealant. I've posted the link below, my apologies if I used the wrong term.

Here is a link that might be useful: previous thread

NOTES:

see sochi's post on sealants for stone counters
clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 10:34 am

Marble, quartzite and other rocks in the kitchen

posted by: karin_mt on 02.27.2013 at 11:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

The thread about Super White, quartzite, marble and all things stone has run its course up to the 150 post limit. Who knew we'd all have so much fun with that topic? So we'll start a new one here. I guess the first thread was Rocks 101, so this one must be Rocks 102.

I'll reiterate some key points here:

Quartzite and marble are hopelessly (deliberately?) mixed up in the decorative stone industry. My point, aside from just loving rocks, is to help folks learn how to tell the difference between the two so you are not at the mercy of a sales rep when a multi-thousand dollar purchase hangs in the balance.

Quartzite is much harder than marble and will not etch when exposed to acids. You can tell the difference between quartzite and marble by doing the scratch test.

Take a glass bottle with you when you go stone shopping. Find a rough, sharp edge of the stone. Drag the glass over the edge of the stone. Press pretty hard. Try to scratch the glass with the stone.

Quartzite will bite right into the glass and will leave a big scratch mark.
Any feldspar will do the same. (Granites are made mostly of feldspar)

Calcite and dolomite (that's what marble and limestone are made of) will not scratch. In fact you will be able to feel in your hand that the rock won't bite into the glass. It feels slippery, no matter how hard you press.

PS - don't press so hard that you risk breaking the glass bottle. You shouldn't need to press that hard!

That aside, we can talk about other rocks too. Coal, pumice, sparkly crystals, you name it. OK, I guess we're mostly interested in kitchen rocks. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: the lowdown on Super White (aka Rocks 101)

This post was edited by karin_mt on Wed, Feb 27, 13 at 23:41

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 08:51 am

Removing Etch Marks from Marble

posted by: i_m_fletcher on 01.08.2011 at 10:38 am in Kitchens Forum

I've had my new marble counter tops for about three weeks now. As expected, I've created a few etch marks on the counter tops - primarily in the prep area between the sink and range top as well as a few really good ones next to the sink edge.

Details:
-Calacatta Ruggine (very similar to Calacatta Gold)
-Brushed Surface (lightly polished with some texture)
-Sealed by Fabricators
-Etch marks created by lime juice and orange juice

I was under the impression that once an etch mark is made (and it happens instantly) there's nothing that can be done except get used to the new mark on the counter top. I'm ok with this in general and actually like the idea that my counter tops will develop a patina over time.

That being said, those first few etch marks stick out like a sore thumb and are a little rough to accept. I set out to see if I could remove them. The good news is that I found a process / product that I feel is very effective at removing these etch marks. Details are in the photo illustrations below.

Small Etch Mark Next to Sink:
Photobucket

Same Etch Mark After Cleaning (proving it's really an etch not dirt):
Photobucket

Etch Removal In Process:
Photobucket

Counter Top After Polishing (Took <1 Min) and Cleaning:
Photobucket

Another Etch Mark:
Photobucket

After Polishing:
Photobucket

Here's a Shot of The Product I Used:
Photobucket

My question is, has anyone else used this stuff (or something similar)? Seems pretty easy and effective. Are there reasons that haven't occurred to me on why I shouldn't use this stuff? Is this common knowledge or an exciting development in the world of Marble counter top care here on Gardenweb?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 08:32 am

Great blog about marble countertops. Must read.

posted by: chloenkitty on 06.22.2014 at 09:39 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm seeing so many posts, blogs, etc about marble lately (probably because I want them as well lol) I thought I'd share this one as it's probably one of the best I've seen. I would, however, like to see pics of a polished marble say 5-10 years after installation.

http://petchhouse.blogspot.com/2006/03/sealing-marble-acid-test.html

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 08:28 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 08:28 am

Your Guide to 15 Popular Kitchen Countertop Materials

posted by: mrs.wiggley on 06.22.2014 at 07:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Saw this article and thought it might make a good resource for this forum. It includes cost info. Covered here are:
Soapstone
Granite
Copper
Engineered Quartz
Tile
Zinc
Recycled Paper Based
Plastic Laminate
Recycled Glass and Cement
Marble
Concrete
Wood

Here is a link that might be useful: Countertop Choices

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 08:20 am

All I Can Say About Neolith is WOW!!!

posted by: aloha2009 on 12.13.2013 at 05:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading about Neolith on GW this week, I checked around and there is one distributor only 20 minutes away (next closest looks to be about 900 miles). The info that I saw seemed intriguing but it seemed to good to be true...a marble look that has incredible properties for countertops.

The beauty of the stone is still very vivid in my mind. We compared it to the Calcutta marble and even close up, I couldn't see a difference. The Neolith had the depth that we know natural stone has.The rep had a great assortment of marbles, granites, onyx, ceasarstone etc. You could tell though he loves this particular material.

Though I had seen videos, it was crazy to see IRL. He literally took the edge of a hammer and ran it across the Neolith, with sparks flying, and not a single scratch! Though he doesn't have the marble Neolith in yet (we saw one he is discontinuing), he plans to have it at a 4 or 5 price grade level. Considering the Calcutta marble that was closest in looks sells in the exotics.

The durability was crazy. No etching, scratching, non porous. I did note a weakness and that is the noise. It was like setting items on a piece of glass. Rather annoying but considering the look and durability, I think I've finally found my forever countertop material.

Here is a link that might be useful: Neolith Marble

This post was edited by aloha2009 on Fri, Dec 13, 13 at 18:28

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clipped on: 06.19.2014 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2014 at 10:19 pm

Firsthouse_mp, Did I miss any recent photos??

posted by: berardmr on 06.07.2014 at 06:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's been a rough month or so and I finally have the time to check out the beautiful kitchens and designs.

One of my all-time favorite "work in progress" kitchen remodel is firsthouse. Has she shared any pictures recently? I am so anxious to see that marble hood.

Firsthouse, if you read this, can you throw me a bone? Pretty please? I am hopelessly in love, sigh.

NOTES:

range backsplash & hood...looks like one big wall. floor information....color & matte finish
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2014 at 01:41 pm

Cost of Glazed Ceramic Tile (Heath, Pratt & Larson)...etc

posted by: kompy on 04.04.2014 at 12:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm now starting to plan for my Powder Room remodel. I know many of you have used beautiful, handmade glazed ceramics on your kitchen backsplashes and I think they look amazing! I have fell in love with a bath on Houzz.com and would like to start putting together a budget.

How much per square foot are handmade glazed ceramic tiles? Companies such as Pratt & Larson, Heath and Encore? $25-$50? I figure it won't be cheap, but I don't want to settle on a generic tile.

Click link to see the bathroom with P&L tile by Goforth Gill Architects in WA.

Kompy

Here is a link that might be useful: Houzz Bathroom by Goforth Gill Architects in WA

NOTES:

crackle tile....sealing before installation & 4 months after....question if used!
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 10:59 am    last updated on: 06.09.2014 at 10:09 pm

first_housemp Update??

posted by: Lauraeds on 05.28.2014 at 06:54 am in Kitchens Forum

first_housemp, I'm dying to see how that stone hood/wall and the rest of your kitchen are coming along!! Any update or photos?

NOTES:

The island is BM 1614 Delrey Gray
clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:23 pm

How to ensure a smooth countertop install?

posted by: Mags438 on 05.22.2014 at 09:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Maybe I've been reading too many countertop install posts lately with my upcoming template, so it would be good to just ask: what should we ask, expect at template appt that could help the actual install be successful?

I'm picking up from posts that re-iterating exactly how you want the edges is important. Even if they brush you off by saying they have the design.

I'll also add, my countertop ppl mentioned in passing during meeting that I should have stove onsite. I mentioned back in passing to them I had no where to store it so hadn't planned on it since I had nowhere to store it. They sent a follow up email regarding upcoming template appointment, re-iterating to me (more forcefully this time, I might add) about the need for range to be onsite but didn't need to be installed. After reading and seeing photos on not-the-best installs here, guess what I've arranged to arrive before templating?

Anything else we should know or be aware of or to ask?

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 10:54 pm

Calling Bill Vincent (& other tile experts) for sealing advice!

posted by: Lauralena on 05.19.2014 at 12:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, guys
My new bathrooms have just been completed, honed marble in one (shower shelves and window ledge); non-honed in the other (shower shelves and window ledge). The people who fabricated the pieces said that it had all been sealed.

My questions:
� At what point/how often should I re-seal?
� How do I know whether to use topcoat sealer or penetrating sealer?
� Does it make a difference for the marble that is exposed to water vs. the marble that isn't?

Thank you!

NOTES:

carrera marble rust info
clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 05:15 pm

Preliminary Peek @ Painted Barker Cabinets

posted by: grlwprls on 03.01.2013 at 11:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's a very early sneak peek at my site painted Barker Cabinets. We still have a few drawer fronts to install on this run and the applied door to cover the side of the bookcase (the last cabinet on the far L of the run). I haven't done the fine adjustments on the Blum hardware or installed any door pulls yet. No toe kick or base trims or any other trim have been installed yet, either. Our floor was a bit of a wreck from the previous kitchen and the prior Jacobean stain on the oak and the not so great skill of prior painters. Since the floor doesn't have another sanding in it in the adjoining living room, I just hand blended in the floor as best I could and will take great pains not to point out the floor's flaws to guests.

Our walls are SW Creamy, our trim (can you even see any?) is SW Pure White. The cabinets are BM Vellum in semi-gloss Advance. Our countertop is Witch Hazel Corian. On this run we did do the 4" splash, but on the range wall, there's a tile splash from counter to ceiling. The faucets at the main and prep sink are uncoated brass from Newport Brass. The sink is biscuit Silgranit and we have runnels carved in the counter under that upside down salad bowl.

It's a cloudy morning here in AR - and we're still missing a few lights. We have LED's everywhere, except in the vintage schoolhouse pendant (again, I don't think you can see that) and the wall mounted Reed sconces from Rejuvenation. Finally got my issue resolved with my Hafele Bali bar. It must have been damaged in shipping - because the replacement came in a wood structured rigid cardboard box. The original one came in a half taped shut cardboard wrap.

Oh, and see my little blue bird sugar bowl by the Keurig? I think that would be perfect in Fishie's amazing yellow kitchen :-)

 photo 475799C7-C476-46B6-B5EF-C06B73680B86-4005-000001FC9449F055_zps98461b20.jpg

NOTES:

corian countertops
clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 10:01 pm

Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers...

posted by: aloha2009 on 02.02.2013 at 06:31 am in Kitchens Forum

I was hoping to make this thread not only informational for myself, but that other information regarding drawers could be collected together. This is all about function.

Obviously to maximize storage and ease of use, drawers are the way to go.

Some things that are not so obvious are about framed, frameless and inset cabinets.

Another is how do cabinet manufacturers differ (if any) on the available usage.

The usage of 3 drawer vs 4 drawer (or even 5 drawer) stacks.

Determining the width of cabinets for your kitchen.

If you have answers to any of these please proceed.

Framed, frameless and inset cabinets utilize differing INTERIOR usable measurements. Please specify the type of cabinets you have (framed, frameless or inset) your manufacturer (or custom), the size of the cabinet, and what the entire TOP drawer INTERIOR measurements are (width, length, height). I stated top drawer only for comparison purposes since only the height should change from drawer to drawer. Perhaps certain manufactures have better storage in their cabinet lines.

Why did you choose cabinets with 4 drawer (and 5 drawer) stack when you did? How many do you have? How did you deal with the "horizontal lines" differences between your 3 and 4 drawer stacks? Just one aesthetic question isn't too bad.

Though wider cabinets are highly prized here, why did you choose narrower cabinets, instead of the widest available that would fit in your kitchen?

If there is anything else, I haven't though of to ask to have this thread be as complete as possible regarding drawers, please feel to add.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 09:50 pm

Starting up another remodel (part 2) photo heavy

posted by: jgopp on 05.02.2014 at 08:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So the old thread got pretty long I think. I wanted to show you guys how the progress is coming. The cabinets are a little wonky since they have not been adjusted yet so please disregard that. I've included a couple other shots of the house progress as well.

Still a ways away, things here in the country seem to take a bit longer. But as long as it's done in time for summer I'll be smitten.

Bonus view pic

Master bath pics

NOTES:

want to see the final
clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 09:49 pm

Nobody does drop-in sink on stone countertop? Really?

posted by: mudworm on 03.17.2011 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know... undermount is more popular these days -- it allows continuous flow in granite, and is easy to wipe stuff off, etc. But then I also read about how gunk might (although not always) build up at the seam depending on the reveal, and how the granite edge might get chipped, etc.

Do people all stay away from drop-in sinks when using solid/stone countertops such as granite? I personally do not consider them ugly, but on the other hand, I've never owned a granite countertop. But we WILL use granite in our remodeled kitchen . Here are the pros and cons I see with drop in sinks (without having researched thoroughly into sinks):

Pros:
- Easier installation, thus lower cost
- No chipped edges
- Easy to replace in case of the need

Cons:
- visible on the granite surface, thus disrupting the flow
- gunk may build up at the seam along the edge
- they tend to look less elegant (? not sure on this one)

Anyhow, for those people who do have drop in sinks on solid stone countertop, do you regret? And could you please post pictures? Thank you!



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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 11:29 pm

Backsplash Recommendations

posted by: ms222 on 05.13.2014 at 08:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey all,

I would like some backsplash recommendations for my kitchen setup. At first I was thinking of blue mosaic glass, but I think I would get tired of it. Second, I was thinking of a mosaic pearl/shell reflective backsplash but it may be too beige/creamy.
I was also thinking of a mosaic marble, but I heard often times it yellows with grout. Any advice?

 photo 20140511_122759_zpsa164916f.jpg

 photo 20140511_122810_zps6818bd8c.jpg

 photo 20140511_122927_zps478fa75c.jpg

NOTES:

Ann Sacks backsplash tile....beauty
clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 11:11 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 11:11 pm

Can a 1 ft. wide tall cab be useful?

posted by: fori on 04.09.2014 at 06:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Howdy! I have a 1 ft wide cabinet between the proposed fridge and the end of the run (to allow the fridge to open). The cabinet--along with the lower cabinets in the run--will be ~30" deep. Upper cabinets will be 18" deep.

Is 1 foot even worth having? Should I eat into the counter space and make it bigger? Any other suggestions on layout of this wall? The range will probably be only 30" but is drawn as 36" (but hood will stay 36").

There is an island directly across from this with DW and main sink.

What a terrible scan! Numbers from left to right are 2' 1.5", 3', 3' (stove), 2' 6", 18" (sink), 2', 3' 8.5" (fridge hole), 1', wall.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 11:01 pm

Anyone use The Cabinet Joint- RTA online co. ?

posted by: Boops2012 on 09.17.2013 at 03:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

They have Scherr- that has gotten good reviews on here. Just wondering if any GW'ers have any experience with this co.?Trying to narrow down the cabinet quotes Ive gotten.

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clipped on: 05.16.2014 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 05.16.2014 at 12:47 am

A question for anyone that purchased Contestoga Cabinets Finished

posted by: aries61 on 04.27.2014 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

I was looking at one of the assembly videos online and noticed that it looks like the underside of the bottom which faces the counter of the uppers is raw plywood. Did I see correctly? If I did, did you do anything with it?

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clipped on: 05.16.2014 at 12:45 am    last updated on: 05.16.2014 at 12:45 am

Orange spots on Carrara Marble--Is this Normal?

posted by: mommytoty on 05.11.2014 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are in the final stages of building a home (we move in this Friday!) and although the "White Carrara Marble Extra" has been installed on my kitchen counters for a few weeks, they've been covered up with a brown paper the whole time for protection. They finally took the paper off and I am noticing tiny orange-rust colored spots in a couple areas (not everywhere uniformally). Are these spots normal to this type of marble or are these stains of some sort?? If these are stains, can they be removed?

Here is a close up picture:

 photo 7DAF1195-069A-4654-A817-42EFB3AA0B9B_zpsvmvahqh4.jpg

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clipped on: 05.16.2014 at 12:44 am    last updated on: 05.16.2014 at 12:44 am

carrera marble - different grades?

posted by: dcmarvel on 05.13.2014 at 07:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello carerra marble experts out there...

I just had my carerra marble counters installed 2 months ago and I am already seeing some weird things. I have lived with carerra marble in a previous house for 6 years, lived with the etching and staining and loved it. Decided to go with carerra marble again, different contractor, different stone guy.

its been 2 months and I am already seeing a few weird things:
- there are two chips on the edge already (did not have any in previous house)
- around the sink, some white lines have appeared in the marble - I will try to post photo but it keeps getting rejected;
- there are what looks and feels like divets in the marble; meaning the texture is not smooth in places, there are small holes - there are darker grey spots that are lower than the surrounding white marble (will try to send photo). These have been there since Day 1.

Can anyone tell me what this all means. Are there different grades of carrera marble - could it be that I have low grade marble, which nicks easier... white lines?

ughh... I don't know what I can do, if anything. My contractor is coming back on Friday to look at them... but I am afraid I am stuck with the marble and if it looks like this after only 2 months....

Thanks for any insight!
donna

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clipped on: 05.16.2014 at 12:21 am    last updated on: 05.16.2014 at 12:21 am

Conestoga Cabinets Quality

posted by: grokzilla on 03.03.2014 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Howdy:

Having some work done on a 120 year old victorian which includes a kitchen remodel.

Our KD has highly recommended we go with Conestoga Cabinets (Conestoga Wood Specialties an Amish cabinet maker I believe). Large portions of the kitchen will be custom, which Conestoga will create and finish, but of course the boxes are sent RTA, which the KD is actually going to build and install.

What little I can find on the forum seems to suggest that Conestoga is high quality, but it's somewhat unclear. He says they are notably better than Shiloh. True?

Does anyone have experience with them? And, what sort of quality are we looking at here?

Is it Kraftmaid from Lowes? Is it Omega Dynasty? Is it Plain and Fancy? Is it Woodmode? Where in the spectrum would you place Conestoga?

Here's the old thread that covered "rankings" of the various cabinet brands:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0517173926064.html

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clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 11:26 pm

Anyone have Conestoga Cabinets in Crystal White or Chesapeake?

posted by: mholtz2323 on 02.05.2012 at 11:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi
I am looking into getting Conestoga Cabinets and was wondering if anyone was familiar with their white finishes.
I want something to match Plain and Fancy's buttercream (which is just an off-white).
I've read that crystal white and chesapeake are their creamy colors (chesapeake being the most creamy).
I am ready to purchase some samples and thought I would do some research before wasting money on samples I know off the bat won't work.
Any pics to share?

Thanks

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clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 05:27 pm

RTA inset cabinets inset or full overlay?

posted by: capecg on 02.16.2014 at 08:09 am in Kitchens Forum

At the point where I'm ready to order my Conestoga cabinets. A KD told me to consider that inset cabinets would likely not wear as well where and peel where the painted doors comes in contact with the frame. Also said that the doors would warp and need to be adjusted during the humidity in Summer. Of course this KD didn't carry inset cabs so not sure if that was the driving force behind her opinion. Also wondering if inset were harder to assemble to make them even ? Can you see a space between the door and the frame?
I appreciate any advice you can give me. This kitchen remodel is a big deal to me an I don't want to make a big mistake.

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clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 05:25 pm

RE: Cost of Glazed Ceramic Tile (Heath, Pratt & Larson)...etc (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: fishymom on 04.06.2014 at 01:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Bicyclegirl, the "Mushroom" is a KraftMaid color, but I had it color matched for our hood stack at Lowes and it was dead on. Here is what it says on the label:

Satin
Base A * 432979

BsA-432919 101-1 107-4 115-0.75

NOTES:

paint color
clipped on: 04.06.2014 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2014 at 08:53 pm

RE: How difficult to repair scratches on new stainless sink? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: debrak2008 on 03.17.2014 at 05:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is my clipping from sherrilynn:

about any stainless steel sink. I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips.
I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

I've been saving this for when I need it.

NOTES:

how to get rid of stainless sink scratches
clipped on: 03.22.2014 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 01:49 pm

RE: take a peek at my "soft modern" small kitchen design? (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: nosoccermom on 03.13.2014 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

149.00; however, not sure how much light they emit.


also in brass (139.00

Here is a link that might be useful: light fixtures at Remodelista

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clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 09:02 pm

Wolf dual fuel DF366 enamel failure What to do?

posted by: wekick on 07.05.2013 at 10:29 am in Appliances Forum

I have the Wolf 36 inch DF range and the enamel on the floor of the oven cavity has failed. It was 4 years 8 mos old. There is bare metal where the enamel has chipped off. In the past Wolf replaced appliances when this happened for those who had issues on this forum, even for a person who had double ovens that were over 4 years old. This oven has only been lightly used as it is a second oven and never at high heat. After haggling back and forth, they will give me the part and $325 towards labor which is estimated to start at $800 and can be more. This is a difficult repair and the cost of labor is based on an hourly rate for two techs and can vary based on their skill level, experience, speed, what else they might find etc. This would only have a one year warranty and given the ongoing issues, and my experience with blue porcelain(failue of blue enamel in 5 appliances in three brands), I am not sure I want to commit to an open ended reinvestment in "blue". So much for "decades of service" I thought I was buying according to their website.

Now what to do.

I can junk it and get something else but was wondering if the oven can be cut off leaving the rangetop or if something can be placed over the enamel on the floor. There are people who accidentally melt aluminum foil to the bottom and was thinking about something like that. My concern other than the eventual degradation of the floor of the oven is the glass shards of enamel finding their way into food or being inhaled.

Any other ideas?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.09.2014 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2014 at 09:35 pm

How Do You Modify Wall To Recess Standard Depth Fridge.

posted by: Renosarefun on 02.02.2014 at 02:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

My wife likes the look of a counter depth fridge but doesn�t like the fact that they�re not very deep and the price is normally around 30-40% more. The fridge that we have purchased, (not yet delivered) is Kitchen aid KFIV29PCMS with the dimensions below.

Has anyone ever recessed the fridge by removing the drywall and studs directly behind the fridge and added reinforcement to support the drywall in the opposite room? The stud is 3 �" and drywall is �" for a total of an extra 4" of space. The fridge requires a 1" air gap between the rear of the fridge and wall which would allow for some metal reinforcement to be installed to replace the missing studs. This would allow the fridge to be recessed approximately 4" more and come close to the counter depth and I would have panels on both sides so as to hide the rear of the fridge. The receptacle could be mounted in the cabinet above the fridge and since I would do all the construction work cost would be minimal and nowhere near the added cost of a counter depth model.

Can members tell me how they accomplished this and what reinforcement they used?

Overall Width: 35 11/16"
Overall Width Door Open 90�: 38 3/16"
Overall Depth: 35 11/16"
Overall Depth without Handles: 33 3/16"
Overall Depth without Door: 28 15/16"
Overall Depth with Doors Open 90�: 48"
Overall Depth with Drawer Open: 47 5/8"
Overall Height: 70 1/8"
Overall Height without Hinges: 68 5/8"
Gross Weight: 352 Lbs.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.09.2014 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2014 at 09:24 pm

kitchen reveal almost completed not staged kitchen-need tile help

posted by: magsnj on 01.12.2014 at 06:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

A year and a half after moving in, my small kitchen is almost done. This is a picture of what it looked like when I moved in:

 photo kitchen002_zps2c4a6073.jpg

Some of you may remeber it from me posting questions here. All of your help was invaluable (both direct and indirect), so THANK YOU!!

My objectives for the kitchen were:

- to make it feel consistent with the rest of the house (1928 small colonial)
-source as much as possible from the USA (preferably local)
-make it feel like a happy place to be

I stil need to add a backsplash. It's going to be Arctic White Matte Daltile (Made in NJ, USA) Subway Tiles. If you could please weigh in on what you would do on the wall of the stove, I'd appreciate it. The wall near the door is going to go up approx 5 ft. On the wall with the Stove, I'm tying to decide if I should go to the ceiling, to the first shelf and then the second shelf right above the range, or any other option I haven't considered.

I accomplished as much as I could with the budget that I had, and regret none of my color or sink choices. :) I'd highly recommend everything I used, bar the stove (oven's a little more shallow than I'd like, but otherwise it's great). Hope you like it!!

Sources:
Cabinet Color: Sherwin Wiliams Bathe Blue (USA)
Cabinets: Design Line Frameless Cabinets (NJ, USA)
Cabinet Hardware: White Chapel Ltd (USA);
Faucet: Delta (USA-ish)
Range: Frigidaire Pro slide in (USA-ish) You can tell it's really professional by the Chicken Nugget Button
Fridge: Frigidaire Pro (USA-ish); Love it
Dishwasher: Kitchenaid Architect Superba (USA-ish)
Lights: Lucent Lampworks (Doylestown PA, USA)
http://www.etsy.com/shop/lucentlampworks
Kitchen Counter: Honed Carrara Marble (Italy)
Pantry Counter: Pine (USA)
Floors: Original wood under the Linoleum
Sink: American Standard

BEFORE PICTURES (I'd like to say, I was really sad when this kitchen got taken out....it had served so long)

 photo KitchenCollage_zps8844b7df.jpg

I painted alot of samples before I decided on Cabinet Color....originally it was white with Yellow walls
 photo Kitchenandmisc050_zps9fb96681.jpg

The floor was actually super easy to maintain, and if the wood underneath didn't work out, I would have chosen another linoleum
 photo Kitchenandmisc053_zps04e86800.jpg

Pantry
 photo Kitchenandmisc070_zps3e1489cf.jpg

AFTER PHOTOS I haven't been able to get the blue to photo true so here's the site address for the color:

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/281543700240647/

 photo Kitchenandmisc224_zps40d68594.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc025_zpsd572e8b8.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc027_zpsb313b48d.jpg

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The kitchen to have one flourescent light. I wanted to make sure it stayed bright.

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc023_zpsc40afdfa.jpg

This is the wall that I need to know what to do with the subway tiles:
 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc041_zps200292be.jpg


Fridge (I won't take the plastic off til the kitchens done :) ):
 photo Kitchenandmisc212_zpse4f3802f.jpg

PANTRY
 photo Kitchenandmisc213_zps868e2f5c.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc214_zps5066d695.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc215_zpsba6685d8.jpg

This post was edited by magsnj on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 19:22

NOTES:

fridge enclosure
clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 12:02 pm

Prep sink in a wood top island

posted by: mkc913 on 01.26.2014 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been advised against this, but I love the look of a wood top for our island, and I also have a prep sink as part of the design. Will I regret this forever? If I go for it, what is the best approach in terms of type and style of wood (butcherblock or other?), type of sealing, any particulars re. sink (undermount/overmount etc.). I want something that will look ok with wear and accept scratches and marks without looking ruined. Love the reclaimed look but not sure it works with our space or where to source it in NJ. We probably won't cut directly on it and will us it minimally for food prep. Anyone out there with a sink in a wood island who is happy with it?

NOTES:

epoxy
clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 09:49 pm