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RE: Cost of Glazed Ceramic Tile (Heath, Pratt & Larson)...etc (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: fishymom on 04.06.2014 at 01:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Bicyclegirl, the "Mushroom" is a KraftMaid color, but I had it color matched for our hood stack at Lowes and it was dead on. Here is what it says on the label:

Base A * 432979

BsA-432919 101-1 107-4 115-0.75


paint color
clipped on: 04.06.2014 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2014 at 08:53 pm

Countertop Geology, Part 5: Marble, Quartzite and other Favorites

posted by: karin_mt on 01.14.2014 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is round five of the Great Rocks Thread!

Please post your rock questions here. I've copied the basic info about quartzite and marble here because this is the most frequent question.

Quartzite and marble are hopelessly (deliberately?) mixed up in the decorative stone industry. My point, aside from just loving rocks, is to help folks learn how to tell the difference between the two so you are not at the mercy of a sales rep when a multi-thousand dollar purchase hangs in the balance.

Quartzite is much harder than marble and will not etch when exposed to acids. You can tell the difference between quartzite and marble by doing the scratch test and the etch test.

Scratch Test
Take a glass bottle or a glass tile with you when you go stone shopping. Find a rough, sharp edge of the stone. Drag the glass over the edge of the stone. Press pretty hard. Try to scratch the glass with the stone.

Quartzite will bite right into the glass and will leave a big scratch mark.
Any feldspar will do the same. (Granites are made mostly of feldspar)

Calcite and dolomite (that's what marble and limestone are made of) will not scratch. In fact you will be able to feel in your hand that the rock won't bite into the glass. It feels slippery, no matter how hard you press.

PS - don't press so hard that you risk breaking the glass in your hand. You shouldn't need to press that hard!

Etch Test
Etching is when the surface of a rock is dissolved from acids like lemon juice, vinegar, wine, etc. It is the primary bummer about using marble in a kitchen. Etching is most noticeable on polished rocks. Etching is not prevented by sealers, no matter what you hear from the sales rep!

Doing the etch test is simple: bring home a sample of the rock and put lemon juice or vinegar on it. Even after a few minutes the results are usually obvious. Etched areas look duller and are discolored compared to the rest of the slab.

Some people get conflicting results with these two tests, but normally anything in the marble family will not scratch glass and it will etch.

Quartzite and rocks in the granite family will scratch glass and will not etch.

For reference, here are links to the other rock threads, in which many types of rocks have been discussed.

Rocks 101: The Lowdown on Super White

Rocks 102: Marble, Quartzite and Other Rocks in the Kitchen

Rocks 103: Countertop Geology: Marble and quartzite and granite, oh my!

Rocks part 4, Marble, Granite, Quartzite

With that, let the rock conversations continue!


clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 08:04 am

RE: How difficult to repair scratches on new stainless sink? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: debrak2008 on 03.17.2014 at 05:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is my clipping from sherrilynn:

about any stainless steel sink. I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips.
I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

I've been saving this for when I need it.


how to get rid of stainless sink scratches
clipped on: 03.22.2014 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 01:49 pm

RE: take a peek at my "soft modern" small kitchen design? (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: nosoccermom on 03.13.2014 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

149.00; however, not sure how much light they emit.

also in brass (139.00

Here is a link that might be useful: light fixtures at Remodelista


clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 09:02 pm

Wolf dual fuel DF366 enamel failure What to do?

posted by: wekick on 07.05.2013 at 10:29 am in Appliances Forum

I have the Wolf 36 inch DF range and the enamel on the floor of the oven cavity has failed. It was 4 years 8 mos old. There is bare metal where the enamel has chipped off. In the past Wolf replaced appliances when this happened for those who had issues on this forum, even for a person who had double ovens that were over 4 years old. This oven has only been lightly used as it is a second oven and never at high heat. After haggling back and forth, they will give me the part and $325 towards labor which is estimated to start at $800 and can be more. This is a difficult repair and the cost of labor is based on an hourly rate for two techs and can vary based on their skill level, experience, speed, what else they might find etc. This would only have a one year warranty and given the ongoing issues, and my experience with blue porcelain(failue of blue enamel in 5 appliances in three brands), I am not sure I want to commit to an open ended reinvestment in "blue". So much for "decades of service" I thought I was buying according to their website.

Now what to do.

I can junk it and get something else but was wondering if the oven can be cut off leaving the rangetop or if something can be placed over the enamel on the floor. There are people who accidentally melt aluminum foil to the bottom and was thinking about something like that. My concern other than the eventual degradation of the floor of the oven is the glass shards of enamel finding their way into food or being inhaled.

Any other ideas?


clipped on: 02.09.2014 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2014 at 09:35 pm

How Do You Modify Wall To Recess Standard Depth Fridge.

posted by: Renosarefun on 02.02.2014 at 02:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

My wife likes the look of a counter depth fridge but doesn�t like the fact that they�re not very deep and the price is normally around 30-40% more. The fridge that we have purchased, (not yet delivered) is Kitchen aid KFIV29PCMS with the dimensions below.

Has anyone ever recessed the fridge by removing the drywall and studs directly behind the fridge and added reinforcement to support the drywall in the opposite room? The stud is 3 �" and drywall is �" for a total of an extra 4" of space. The fridge requires a 1" air gap between the rear of the fridge and wall which would allow for some metal reinforcement to be installed to replace the missing studs. This would allow the fridge to be recessed approximately 4" more and come close to the counter depth and I would have panels on both sides so as to hide the rear of the fridge. The receptacle could be mounted in the cabinet above the fridge and since I would do all the construction work cost would be minimal and nowhere near the added cost of a counter depth model.

Can members tell me how they accomplished this and what reinforcement they used?

Overall Width: 35 11/16"
Overall Width Door Open 90�: 38 3/16"
Overall Depth: 35 11/16"
Overall Depth without Handles: 33 3/16"
Overall Depth without Door: 28 15/16"
Overall Depth with Doors Open 90�: 48"
Overall Depth with Drawer Open: 47 5/8"
Overall Height: 70 1/8"
Overall Height without Hinges: 68 5/8"
Gross Weight: 352 Lbs.


clipped on: 02.09.2014 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2014 at 09:24 pm

kitchen reveal almost completed not staged kitchen-need tile help

posted by: magsnj on 01.12.2014 at 06:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

A year and a half after moving in, my small kitchen is almost done. This is a picture of what it looked like when I moved in:

 photo kitchen002_zps2c4a6073.jpg

Some of you may remeber it from me posting questions here. All of your help was invaluable (both direct and indirect), so THANK YOU!!

My objectives for the kitchen were:

- to make it feel consistent with the rest of the house (1928 small colonial)
-source as much as possible from the USA (preferably local)
-make it feel like a happy place to be

I stil need to add a backsplash. It's going to be Arctic White Matte Daltile (Made in NJ, USA) Subway Tiles. If you could please weigh in on what you would do on the wall of the stove, I'd appreciate it. The wall near the door is going to go up approx 5 ft. On the wall with the Stove, I'm tying to decide if I should go to the ceiling, to the first shelf and then the second shelf right above the range, or any other option I haven't considered.

I accomplished as much as I could with the budget that I had, and regret none of my color or sink choices. :) I'd highly recommend everything I used, bar the stove (oven's a little more shallow than I'd like, but otherwise it's great). Hope you like it!!

Cabinet Color: Sherwin Wiliams Bathe Blue (USA)
Cabinets: Design Line Frameless Cabinets (NJ, USA)
Cabinet Hardware: White Chapel Ltd (USA);
Faucet: Delta (USA-ish)
Range: Frigidaire Pro slide in (USA-ish) You can tell it's really professional by the Chicken Nugget Button
Fridge: Frigidaire Pro (USA-ish); Love it
Dishwasher: Kitchenaid Architect Superba (USA-ish)
Lights: Lucent Lampworks (Doylestown PA, USA)
Kitchen Counter: Honed Carrara Marble (Italy)
Pantry Counter: Pine (USA)
Floors: Original wood under the Linoleum
Sink: American Standard

BEFORE PICTURES (I'd like to say, I was really sad when this kitchen got taken had served so long)

 photo KitchenCollage_zps8844b7df.jpg

I painted alot of samples before I decided on Cabinet Color....originally it was white with Yellow walls
 photo Kitchenandmisc050_zps9fb96681.jpg

The floor was actually super easy to maintain, and if the wood underneath didn't work out, I would have chosen another linoleum
 photo Kitchenandmisc053_zps04e86800.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc070_zps3e1489cf.jpg

AFTER PHOTOS I haven't been able to get the blue to photo true so here's the site address for the color:

 photo Kitchenandmisc224_zps40d68594.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc025_zpsd572e8b8.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc027_zpsb313b48d.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc035_zpsd6f47c8c.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc028_zps2355eb7c.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc033_zpse1951582.jpg

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc030_zps0fc55d56.jpg

The kitchen to have one flourescent light. I wanted to make sure it stayed bright.

 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc023_zpsc40afdfa.jpg

This is the wall that I need to know what to do with the subway tiles:
 photo Kitchenrevealandmisc041_zps200292be.jpg

Fridge (I won't take the plastic off til the kitchens done :) ):
 photo Kitchenandmisc212_zpse4f3802f.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc213_zps868e2f5c.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc214_zps5066d695.jpg

 photo Kitchenandmisc215_zpsba6685d8.jpg

This post was edited by magsnj on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 19:22


fridge enclosure
clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 12:02 pm

Prep sink in a wood top island

posted by: mkc913 on 01.26.2014 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been advised against this, but I love the look of a wood top for our island, and I also have a prep sink as part of the design. Will I regret this forever? If I go for it, what is the best approach in terms of type and style of wood (butcherblock or other?), type of sealing, any particulars re. sink (undermount/overmount etc.). I want something that will look ok with wear and accept scratches and marks without looking ruined. Love the reclaimed look but not sure it works with our space or where to source it in NJ. We probably won't cut directly on it and will us it minimally for food prep. Anyone out there with a sink in a wood island who is happy with it?


clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 09:49 pm