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RE: Please review my espalier plan (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: steve_in_los_osos on 10.01.2013 at 12:53 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Here are some pictures I took this morning:

Pomegranate (first season):

This is "freestanding" in an area of my yard that gets really warm when the sun shines but loses the sun (mostly) in the winter. Up against the south side of the house would have been better but there is no soil there and there is always the problem of painting if you install espaliers against your house.

The citrus espaliers are in their second season in the back yard, against a south-facing fence at the rear of the vegetable garden. Right now the eureka lemon is more or less obscured by a stand of asparagus but the sun is still high enough to get to the lower tier of the espalier. By the time this is no longer true, I will have cut down the asparagus. Not ideal, but it's the space I have:

This was the most mature of the three trees I planted when I beheaded it to start the process. And lemons grow like weeds anyway, so it's the farthest along.

The owari satsuma mandarin was the runt of the pack, having languished in a pot for a few years after being being rescued from a close-out sale. And mandarins are slow growers, so it has not filled out very much. Probably should have bought a new, larger tree to start:

The trovita orange was a newly purchased tree which I then beheaded to start the training:

Here's a view of the 24 ft. of citrus:


clipped on: 09.18.2014 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2014 at 08:37 pm

RE: Privacy Hedge other than Oleander? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: babyg on 04.19.2014 at 07:41 pm in California Gardening Forum

This is what I would do. In fact, I may rip out my cypress hedge and replace it.

I'd grow a citrus hedge. Citrus are lush evergreen and beautiful. They do VERY well here. The blooms smell amazing. If pruned correctly they will grow in for total privacy, you can train them to exactly 8' tall, and the thorns will keep out...anyone. And if that weren't enough, you would get free fruit. Good fruit.

Plant them YOUNG and every 4 feet on center (no closer) and then prune them (starting immediately) to be hedges, not trees. They will grow in completely.

Get good varieties... you will have this hedge for 30-40 years. Make sure to vary the varieties you choose within each kind of citrus fruit. (Not two identical lemon trees, but instead a meyer lemon and a variegated eureka lemon. Not just two oranges but a washington navel and a late lane navel, etc., Same for mandarins, limes, etc.) When a fruit has a companion of another variety, they can cross-pollinate and both trees will put out many fold more blooms/fruit. This is true even for self-pollinating varieties.

For success, read more about what citrus prefer. Citrus like well-drained soil, full sun and nothing planted under them. Keep the mulch away from the trunk and maybe even elevate them six inches or so on beds.

That's what I would do if I had the opportunity to choose my hedge!


clipped on: 04.25.2014 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2014 at 04:12 pm

RE: washer / dryer (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: deeageaux on 07.26.2013 at 04:20 am in Appliances Forum

LG is the brand name. It used to be Lucky Goldstar but now they go by LG.

WM3455H is the model number.


Asko UltraCare Line Series Classic W6424 $1350

Asko Line Series Classic Vented Electric Dryer T754W $949

Asko Line Series Classic T754CW Vent Less Electric Dryer $1249

LG has a sanitary cycle of 150 degrees.

Asko has a sanitary cycle of 205 degrees. Kills virtually all bacteria dead. Gets whites really white. It works it way up in temperature and only at top temp for a few minutes not enough to destroy elasticity of underwear or socks for example.

SuperRinse up to 7 Rinses. Sometimes this can be a problem with front loaders. Proper rinsing.

Look for the LG to last 7-10 years and the Asko to last 20-25 years. There is always the possibility of a lemon so YMMV.


clipped on: 03.31.2014 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2014 at 09:13 pm

RE: HELP! Clear or frosted shades on island pendants? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dragonfly08 on 05.03.2012 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

We went with a clear glass that is beveled so the effect is warm when looking directly at/thru glass. Personally, I felt that a solid shade would make my room feel smaller (our ceilings are only 8') but I was also worried about glare from clear glass. I didn't like any frosted shades I saw... We love our pendants. Though clear glass, they emit mostly downward task-lighting, just what we need. Here's a pic of them up close:



clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 08:05 pm

I think I love these pendants. Is there an affordable knock-off?

posted by: cali_wendy on 03.31.2011 at 11:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

We've been using our kitchen for 19 months since we remodeled. There are still several small to large fixes that need to happen, so we're not officially "done."

I am finally in the market to purchase some mini pendants for over my island. In retrospect I would have wired for 2 medium-sized pendants, but alas there are 3 boxes in my ceiling to accommodate 3 mini pendants. So, that is what I am searching for.

Back story...I don't want to spend a fortune on these lights, as we will have to open up the ceiling down the road when we do our Phase II addition. We hope to level the ceiling at that point (we should have done it when it was gutted the first time, but I digress), so I may wire it differently at that point in time.

Phase II will likely not happen for another 3 or more years. So, I would like to find pendants that I really like, but would hate to spend a fortune on something that I may ditch down the road. Plus, I don't have a fortune to spend right now anyway.

Well, that is a lot of blabber for some mini pendant advice. Sorry! Let's cut to the chase. Here is a photo of a pendant that I think I love. They are a budget buster at $625 each. I have never seen anything similar. Any ideas for a less expensive knock-off? Or something with the same look/feel? I appreciate any feedback. You all are the best!


And you've likely seen my kitchen, but just in case, here is an old shot. (Note: There is a casual sofa where the 2 chairs are now, so don't let that sway your advice on style.)

After - TV room looking towards kitchen

Thank you in advance for input. I am totally open to other options also, so if you have an idea for me, please throw it out there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Expensive Currey & Company Pendants


clipped on: 09.13.2011 at 02:49 am    last updated on: 09.13.2011 at 02:49 am

Appliances 10 months later.

posted by: tanem on 04.02.2011 at 08:09 pm in Appliances Forum

We built a new home and I choose most of my appliances based on opinions from this forum. I am so thankful for the information on this forum! This is just an update after 10 months of use. After all the choices involved in a new built I don't remember model numbers, but look things up if someone has a question. A little background: We are a family of 5 with children ages 10, 8, and 5. I cook dinner and breakfast almost everyday. I'm not a seasoned chef, but I love to cook and make most of my items from or epicurious. I rarely make prepackaged food. my kids are in al lot of activities, but I usually make dinner ahead of time so it can be a little healthier.

Rangetop- 48" Wolf, 4 sealed burners, griddle and grill. Works fantastic. I find it super easy to clean. The built in griddle is my favorite. We use it for everything from pancakes to stir-fry. Only regret is not getting a bigger griddle and foregoing the grill. The grill works good, but we live in a warm climate and it's not necessary, but my husband insisted. He now agrees that a bigger griddle would have been better.
I have not used more than 2 burners at a time so 4 is plenty, but I do cook all vegetables in my steam oven.

Hood- Vent-a-Hood- Love it! Leaves no order or smoke in the air. I do not find it at all noisy.

Gaggenau 30" convection oven- Works great. My favorite feature would be the rottisorie. Makes unbeliveable chicken. I have only tried 2 racks of cookies at a time which baked perfectly.

Gaggenau Steam Oven- My favorite appliance, hands down. I use this for veges, breads, cakes and meats. It looks small, but you can fit a large prime rib in it. We use this over the regular oven. We did a test on prime rib over the holidays. Everyone thought the steam oven roast was better. With the humdity added it gives a nice crust while keeping the meat juicy.

1 fullsize dishwasher- Miele- Your dishes come out perfect.
1 tall dishdrawer- F&P- It is convienant not having to bend over, but doens't come close to the Miele for getting dishes clean.

Built-in coffee maker (plumbed) - Miele- I know there have been comments on how this is too much money for a coffee maker, but it is worth every penny! I highly recommend this machine if you are a coffee drinker.

Fridge- Thermadore Columns- 48" fridge, 30" freezer- no ice /water in door (I do not miss cleaning up water on the floor from the kids getting their own or the mildew that grows in the tray). Works well.

Water chiller- Aqua Chill- Love it! After staying with us my Dad is putting one in his house.


clipped on: 04.03.2011 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2011 at 12:19 pm

how many cfm's do i need?

posted by: plumberry on 06.24.2010 at 01:09 am in Appliances Forum

I am planning to get the Wolf 36" 5 burner gas cooktop (CT36). One store told me I need a hood w/~800cfm another told me 440cfm? Which one is right? or, are they both wrong? I'm looking at Imperial or Broan.


clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 08:25 pm

led ucl diy

posted by: jem199 on 06.17.2010 at 12:19 am in Lighting Forum

Instructions for LED DIY
1. Measure the inside bottoms of the front width of your cabinets, between the sides (called fences). This assumes that the upper cabinets are completely flat bottomed.
2. Create a box diagram of your pper cabinet layout on paper and include the measurements.
3. Decide how many lighting zones (circuits) youd like (groupings with their own switch or dimmer). Decide if you want dimming in each zone. You will need a transformer and a switch for each zone. Purchase dimmable transformers and switches for the zones that require dimming.
4. If you have lighting levels in your current kitchen you like, determine the lumens (light output) of those lights to be sure you are adding similar brightness. I used the following
Incandescent are typically 14 lumens per watt.
Fluorescents are typically 60 lumens per watt.
The lighting should be determined by a desired lumens per linear ft basis. The type of lighting (xenon, halogen, fluorescent, led, EL) possible could be dictated by conformance to local laws (eg - title24) FWIW, has a claimed output of 83 lumens per watt. Environmental lights has their lumens here:
5. Determine the lengths of lights for each cabinet. You want at least one light every 30". Many have suggested getting the widest you can for each cabinet and then putting them on a dimmer to give you the most flexibility for task and ambient lighting. You can stack two or more lightbars parallel and connect them with jumpers for more lumens over a high-task area, such as a sink.
6. For each zone, add up the volts for the lights in the zone so you can select the appropriate transformer. Add 15% to your total. Here are the conversions I used (This is specific to the environmentallights type light bar)
15 cm = 5.9" = 1.65w
30 cm = 11.8" = 3.3w
60 cm = 23.6" = 6.6w
90 cm = 35.4" = 9.9w
7. Decide where you will place your transformer(s). Transformers should be placed in a wall, but in a cabinet, basement or attic where there is circulation and you can access it, if needed. You need one transformer for each lighting zone. By code, the transformer(s) have to be in an accessible location. One transformer per lighting zone is required if independent control of each zone is required. If multiple transformers are required, you need to ensure that there is adequate electrical branch wiring to the locations where each transformer is located. The necessary switch controls need to be planned for.
8. Add your lights to your box diagram. This will help you determine the accessories needed and where to place the wires. The lights in each zone must connect to each other and each cable must reach the transformer. For new installs, you can pull the wires back through the wallboard. For existing installs, bring the cables over the tops of the cabinets. You need at least 2 mounting clips per light. You may also need seamless connectors and/or right angle cords for tight spaces between the lights and fence where the cord needs to travel to the back of the cabinet. Interconnected zones should be wired in parallel not series so that a problem in one light bar/ zone would not cause all the lights to go out.

Parts List
1. In wall wiring - Ideal brand low voltage wiring (from HD or Lowes).
2. Ideal Plug disconnects (from HD or Lowes).
3. Lights - depends on how much light you want, total length of cabinets.
4. Transformer(s) - depends on cummulative consumption + 15% margin.
5. Inter-connect wiring.
6. Lightbars from Email for pricing sheet.
7. Transformer from
8. Leviton 6613 magnetic dimmers 1 for each circuit/zone. Check with transformer supplier if youd like to use a different one. Incompatible dimmer switches can void your transformer warranty. This particular dimmer reco assumes that low voltage (12V or 24V) LED lighting will be installed and contains many details specific to environmentallights type lightbars. Magnetic dimmers from various vendors could be used, but require some testing first. If you use a different transformer, check with the manufacutuer if there are known problems with certain dimmers. You can Hook up the system prior to installation for a test run if possible - switch(es).Things to look out for
1. There is no buzzing/ humming sound from the transformer when everything is hooked up and powered on.
2. All lights are equally bright, especially at the ends.
3. No flickering
4. No problems when dimming.

Tips specifics to this type of environmental lights type lightbar:
1. Its a waste to buy the long length 3 prong interconnects. Just cut the interconnect wires and attach to a disconnect.
2. Two adjacent prongs are actually connected to the same DC line. The third is connected to the other DC line.
3. The right angle interconnects are probably more useful for connecting bars set at an angle to each other.
4. You could use flat wire under the cabinets as it comes with double side sticky tape. Some DIY work would be necessary with a soldering iron + heat shrink tubing.
The flat wire is useful in situations where you do not like to see standard low voltage wiring.
5. The plug disconnects would be used to connect the in-wall low voltage wiring to the lighting power cords which connect the lights. It would also connect the in-wall low voltage wiring to the transformer. This way, if you ever decide to change out all the lighting bars to another make, it would be a simple matter of disconnecting from the plug disconnects and perhaps the transformer.

Thanks to davidtay for this information! Be sure to watch both parts of the DIY video below. Its shows how to wire these to household current.

Here is a link that might be useful: UCL Install Video


clipped on: 01.31.2011 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 01.31.2011 at 08:40 am

RE: led ucl diy (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: jterrilynn on 07.16.2010 at 01:34 pm in Lighting Forum

You can get the exact same led light bars that enviromentallights sells from the eBay seller ledpro-tw The same light bars shown in jens video above. or their home site Prontonier for 50% less in cost.
I have to say that after terrorizing many helpful wonderful people here on this forum and the ebay seller Sean Chu of ledpro and Prontonier with my lack of knowledge on electric and led lightingas a business owner Sean gets 11 out of ten stars. Im telling you that man worked hard for the little money he made off me, I cant say enough good things about the whole transaction. Plus I saved lots and lots of money!


clipped on: 01.31.2011 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 01.31.2011 at 08:32 am

RE: Full Circle: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: melaska on 01.17.2011 at 02:20 am in Kitchens Forum


Can you get those light-colored highlight markers & just color them? That way you won't need to redo the labels.

I got the bottom 2 bins from Brylane Home that has helped tremendously in my food storage. They really help for the fridge & freezer. Maybe you could use some for your spices? I'll link below as well.

I use one for my cheeses and another for everything I need to make my 'speedy enchiladas'; tortillas, cheese, sour cream, individual Ziplocs of my homemade salsa & grapes. (I know grapes sound weird, but I love the combo of spicy foods with cool grapes). So easy to just grab the whole thing & not look for the separate elements all over the fridge.


Here is a link that might be useful: Fridge Bins


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 10:33 am    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 10:33 am

My GW-inspired kitchen is on

posted by: carecooks on 01.10.2011 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I couldn't have done this without GW. You guys rock!


Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 02:43 am    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 02:43 am

Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish details

posted by: petestein1 on 09.14.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Almost two years ago I contributed to some posts about using my island top as a cutting board and got some helpful advice. I thought I'd post an update.

As part of a full renovation our kitchen island got a nice beefy top made of black walnut. Even though everyone thought I was nut, I said I wanted to use part of it as a cutting board. After all, it's a kitchen, not a museum. With that in mind, I had to come up with a food-safe finish for it. What I chose, based on advice here, was nothing more than a hand-rubbed application of mineral oil and bees wax.

I'm happy to report that it's been over a year and everything's gone great. First, the island looks great. Everyone comments on it the moment they see it.

Second, using it as a cutting board has worked out quite well. The wood is more than hard enough to stand up to my knives. Not having to get out a cutting board, and then keep all my chopped whatever on the cutting board as I work... it makes life so much easier. For those who told me I needed to do something akin to butcher-block -- making the island top out of end-grain... well, you were incorrect. End-grain would have been harder no doubt but the walnut is more than hard enough. And worst case? I break out a power sander and 1/64" of an inch later my island would be in immaculate condition.

No doubt, the knife leaves marks in the wood. But the wood is "busy" enough that you can only see them if you go looking for them and your eye is within 12" or so of the counter (photos below).

Oh, for those worried about food safety, I still don't get raw meat on the counter (though I think it would be fine as long as I cleaned up with soap and water afterwards). And we don't chop anything "stinky" like garlic or onion though we do work with other aromatics like rosemary and thyme. 15 months later and the counter has no odor of any kind.

Third, the finish. I was worried about this but in the end it's been fine. I melted some furniture-grade beeswax on the stove, added mineral oil (about 2 parts oil to 1 part wax) and let is solidify into a semi-hard paste. I rub it in, let it stand (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes overnight), and then I buff it out.

At first I was doing this every few weeks but now I only do it every 2 months or so. I could probably stand to do it a bit more often in the quadrant I use as a cutting board, but, well, you know, life gets in the way.

For the first 6 months or so if you left a wet glass on the counter for more than a few hours we were getting drink rings. I had to lightly sand those out and rewax. But now we seem to have a deep enough coating that we haven't had a drink ring -- or any mark of any kind -- for over 6 months.

How do I clean it? A soapy sponge. Simple as that.

Ready for photos? Ok, here's the island as whole:

Take a good look at the image above. Can you see where I've prepared over 100 meals? You know -- the section where I've sliced up thousands of peppers and cucumbers and apples and peaches and melons and tomatoes and potatoes and celery and carrots and parsnips, etc, etc?

Okay, the "cutting board" area is the left side of the island, from the bottom of the photo to the sink. That 25% of the island is the designated "cutting board" section.

Yes, the board closest to the left of the photo has a lot of lines in it, but those aren't knife marks, that's "tiger-striping" in the wood -- I chose that board for there on purpose in case I needed camouflage for knife marks.

Ok, ready for a close-up of the knife marks? This photo was taken from about 8 inches away:

...looks like a cutting board, doesn't it? ;-)

So what problems do I have? Well, we have a lot of friends and cook a lot of meals together, People like to help. Once they get past the "What??! I can cut right on the counter???!?" moment I have two problems.

First, it's hard to keep them in the designated 25% that I use as a cutting board. Yes, the knife marks are subtle enough that they could probably work anywhere but I still haven't let go.

Second, these same people occasionally use a bread knife that can take some comparatively pretty big chunks out of the top. This has only happened once or twice, and with a coat of wax the marks pretty much disappear. But still, it's stressful.

Bottom line? I strongly encourage people to explore using an island top as cutting board. Second, a food-safe finish is easy! Third, I love my new kitchen. :-)


clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2010 at 11:54 pm

RE: Best shower grout? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.04.2010 at 12:15 am in Bathrooms Forum

Mildew isn't a problem at all-- either with Spectralock, OR with the Permacolor. The Spectralock is an epoxy, and the Permacolor as antimicrobial agents in it to block the growth of mold and mildew.

Besides, you don't want to be using bleach unless it's absolutely necessary (and with mold, it would be). For cleaning other than plain hot water (which should be enough most of the time) Oxyclean is a wonderful thing! It'll do just as good a job as bleach without harming the grout.


clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 02:40 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 02:40 am

RE: Farmhouse sink question (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.18.2010 at 10:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, there are two ways to do it, and we have both.

The first is to drop the sink on top of a drip rail on your base cabinet. Molding goes up the side of the sink, and, depending on how much angle there is to the sink edge, there can be a bit of a gap. We used columns, but our main sink is fairly straight on the sides, so there's hardly any gap at all:

From 2010-0818

The second way is to forego the drip rail and custom cut an apron or drawerfront around the sink. As long as your installer is good enough to make an accurate cut, there won't be any space at all between the cabinet front and sink:

From 2010-0818

Both work, and both look good-- it just depends on whether you want the drip rail or not.


clipped on: 09.22.2010 at 03:47 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2010 at 03:47 pm

RE: Scribing around farm sink front base +...caulk? Putty? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: circuspeanut on 08.29.2010 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Ha! Thanks, Francy. I think it started out life as the door panel of a base cabinet -- we sliced and diced my recycled cabs so many times I lost track. I do remember being worried about matching the stain.

One thing in favor of a drip rail are the flatter bottoms of non-Shaws farm sinks.

It is odd that manufacturers don't take these sinks more into account; I suspect that it's part "prefab need not apply" snobbery and part what palimpsest points out: just too hard to standardize for handmade sinks. Most cabinetry lines seem to carry a farm sink base now, though, with the doors lower down and top panel ready to be scribed.

We used a spare wall-oven cabinet and cut down doors from elsewhere to fit.

The advantage to a drip rail made of countertop material (solid surface, soapstone, granite etc) would be its water-resilience. Apologies for not remembering whose this is, but I love it. Here you can see that the sink fit between side cabinetry, doesn't look scribed at all. I wonder how the finished product came out?


clipped on: 09.22.2010 at 04:13 am    last updated on: 09.22.2010 at 04:13 am

Poof! Marble etches gone! (pics)

posted by: niffy on 09.05.2010 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have mentioned before that with our honed marble, I am able to remove etches with a green Scotchbrite pad (the plain, thin pad, not the back side of a sponge). Last night my daughter got lemonade on the marble and it etched, so I decided it was an opportunity for a "demo." Hopefully this will be helpful to people (like me!) who hesitate about marble due to the etching issues. The general consensus seems to be that the sealers prevent stainining (ours does) but that etching remains an issue that you have to be able to live with. I don't live with them - I remove them. Voila!

Below you should be able to spot 2 circular etches, with the second one being far fainter, just above the first.

I used a little spray of granite cleaner and my green Scotchbrite pad and... gone.

Marble etch removal.jpg

I am a 100% happy marble owner:)


clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2010 at 01:07 pm

RE: looking for thread on wood island top with dark perimeter cou (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: boxerpups on 09.16.2010 at 08:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think I remember the post you are looking for. Although
I could be wrong. Forgive me if I am terribly confused.
It has been a while since I was on GW. I pop in and out
when I have some free time. Here are some images I happen
to have of wood counters. Maybe they can help you.
I am certain two different woods will be lovely. Especially
the wood on the floor and the wood on the counter.
Don't second guess yourself . Your kitchen will ROCK!!!

From Inviting Home Wood Counters
black and wood

Endura Wood

Elmwood Reclaimed Timber Hickory


Here are both wood and marble. Lovely!!!!
This is from SRS woodworking.

Bumben Hauer
wood island

Antique Pine from Devowoodworking

Devos Custom Woodworking Walnut




clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2010 at 01:00 pm

RE: How big is your prep sink? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: doonie on 09.18.2010 at 04:39 am in Kitchens Forum

buehl is spot on about the prep sink size. I think it would be constantly annoying to have one that's not quite big enough. Make sure your colander can fit in it!

We got a large single bowl for our prep sink that measures 20 3/4" by 18" and 7 1/2" deep. I listened to GW and got a garbage disposal too, and I have not regretted it! I also got a sink grid for it since it helps to lay my fruits and veggies on for rinsing.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2010 at 12:55 pm

RE: Visible honing swirls on honed marble (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pricklypearcactus on 09.18.2010 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a honed carrera marble countertop in my bathroom. Absolutely no swirl marks or man made marks of any kind.

In the Stone Information and Advice thread, it specifically says the following.

"Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process. "


clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2010 at 12:52 pm

RE: can you show pictures of your etched marble counter? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: carriea on 09.18.2010 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

A big shout out to Niffy the "scotchbright" pad is amazing! Really should erase any qualms about etching and marble. Go for it we LOVE our honed marble.


clipped on: 09.18.2010 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2010 at 12:50 pm

RE: Bosch vs GE Profile Wall Ovens (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: monya40 on 03.13.2008 at 05:15 pm in Appliances Forum

I couldnt help noticing the questions regarding ovens. I would like to help answer some of these question..

Bosch 300 series is a non convection oven,
bosch 500 series is a convection oven upper only.. the third heating element is 2000 watts which is what gives you the european convection..

I hope this helps in answering some of your questions..

Kitchen aid, kenmore, maytag, amana, are all whirlpool products now...

The difference between precise air in a ge and true european in a bosch

Precise air: a fan blows hot air through out the oven.
european: by adding a 3rd element the fan actually blows pre heated air, rather than distributing already heated air. Making this more effective type of oven, less time and less energy..

Example,, When I bake 3 sheets of cookies at one time, when I preheat the oven, the fan is blowing exactly the temperature that I sat 350 degrees,, Every cooking will come out exactly the same tops and bottoms..
precise air.. I set at 350degrees, but the fan is just blowing the air around, doesnt mean the oven temp will stay at 350 degrees.. Doesnt mean that I will burn anything either, but if the oven is exact, then the food will cook faster, and more evenly.. less time, less energy, more effective with european convection.. I hope I have not confused you in any way..

speed convection: Is best when cooking frozen foods.
bake convection: is best when baking pies,cookies,cakes ect.
broil convection: best when cooking steaks
roast concection, best when cooking chicken..
each convection mode uses a different element.. otherwise they are all covections and all will decrease you cooking time by 25 to 30percent..

Frigidaire is the cheapest make on the market for the average consumer who wants convection, but cannot afford the higher end of appliances.. Its like the generic brand of all brands..


clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:23 pm

RE: 4'' Broom Closet from Ikeafans (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: jeri on 05.21.2010 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Im not sure why this thread was bumped, but I really hope to do one of these in our laundry room. I will not have a broom closet otherwise and I really think this is a great use of space.

DaveInOrlando Thanks for you input. My DH will be building ours so any insight really helps. :-)

Here are a few more pictures of these. The first is from RMKitchens beautiful kitchen and the next 2 belong to JustMeJulie.


clipped on: 09.05.2010 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2010 at 12:32 pm

RE: i need a fine-grained wood for my cabs (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 08.24.2010 at 01:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Woods that are traditionally chosen for painting are maple or poplar. Also, MDF is an excellent choice for the recessed/raised panels in painted cabinetry as it's much more dimensionally stable and a greener choice than solid wood.


clipped on: 08.24.2010 at 04:41 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2010 at 04:41 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Working Farmhouse, IKEA Budget R (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.20.2010 at 11:54 am in Kitchens Forum

Again, thank you all so much for the compliments! We absolutely love the kitchen, and it's nice to hear that others do, too!

Writersblock and Petra66, we undermounted the Domsjo like we would have any other sink-- the rim of the Domsjo is blessedly flat, so it wasn't difficult.

The Domsjo single bowl is a 24" sink, so to undermount it, we used a 30" cabinet. If you wanted to do a drip rail installation (like we did on our main sink), you'd have to use a 24" sink cabinet, and cut the whole thing down to have the sink sit completely on top of the cabinet.

The sink is designed to sit on two metal rails (they come with the sink) that span the width of the cabinet, and screw into the sides. Those rails are too short for a 30" cabinet, so we just used wood, and placed it and screwed it exactly like we would have with the metal. The only thing you have to do is to measure carefully, and make sure that you screw the wood into the right spot, so that the top of the sink is exactly level with the top of the cabinet.

Once the sink is sitting level with the top of the cabinet, the counter top goes on, and sits on top of the sink and the cabinet. We just ran a bead of clear caulk along the sink/counter seam.

The trim out was a little fussier, but the beauty of IKEA is that you can buy doors and drawerfronts seperately, so we could just mix and match, keep what worked, and return what didn't. To do the apron around the sink, we used a 30" wide drawerfront (IKEA's deep drawer front-- 12" high) and cut it to fit around the outline of the sink with a jigsaw. Finish nailed it into place, then installed the airswitch for the disposal on the front.

Because we dropped the height of the sink, none of the standard IKEA doors fit exactly, but the 18" set was really close, so we used those, and just added a small filler strip above them. Because the Tidaholm brown/black is so dark, it's hard to get a good photo of it, but here's probably the best shot I have:

The Tidaholm reads really black in our kitchen, so we stained the filler strip with india ink (I was doing the countertops anyway, so why not?), and finish nailed it in.

There is definitely room for a pullout in there, or room for a disposal (we have one).

If you have any more questions about the sink install, let me know!


clipped on: 08.22.2010 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2010 at 07:37 pm

RE: What finish treatment do/did you use on your wood countertops (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: juliekcmo on 08.13.2010 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a Boos maple island. We did our kitchen about 10 years ago.

We have the oiled finish. At installation, I believe they rubbed in 3 coats of "boos oil" which is a food grade oil. (available online if you google it)

Then for about the first 6 months I reoiled about every 6 weeks. Now I do 1 or 2 times a year.

We love love love our wood counter..its a 7 foot long cutting board! We cut right on it and it looks great after all this time. Stains mostly come out with a rub of baking soda and vinegar for things like berry juice. The only time I needed to sand and re-oil was for Sharpie ink.


clipped on: 08.14.2010 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2010 at 11:19 pm

RE: Best paint for kitchen cabinets? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: azwildcats70 on 08.10.2010 at 10:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can tell you what I've been using.

Primer: Benjamin Moore Fresh Start
Paint: Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Waterbourne


clipped on: 08.11.2010 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2010 at 02:27 pm

RE: a representation of what I meant (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: rhome410 on 07.27.2010 at 06:58 pm in Kitchens Forum



clipped on: 07.27.2010 at 07:18 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2010 at 07:19 pm

Advice about slab doors?

posted by: carol08 on 07.25.2010 at 11:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Were having trouble choosing our cabinet door style. We generally prefer contemporary styles and simple, clean lines. Although the current kitchen cabinets have very traditional, raised panel doors (which we dislike), the rest of the house has slab doors and the simplest of moldings. Thus, although most homes in our area are quite traditional, we thought wed go with slab cabinet doors (for continuity with the rest of our house and because we like their looks).

After doing some shopping, however, were starting to wonder about slab door construction. It seems that warping is a potential problem, which can be addressed different ways:
-- veneer on MDF
-- veneer on particle board
-- veneer on plywood
-- solid wood strips fastened together somehow, sometimes with battens on the back

Weve heard good and bad things about each approach. Not surprisingly, people seem to favor what they sell and this has left us feeling confused and conflicted E.g., we like the fact that veneers are available in some interesting woods and some cabinet companies offer bookmatching, but we worry about damaging the veneer and not really having refinishing options. At the same time were worried that solid wood slabs would warp more, and DH isnt keen on battens. We dont want anything that looks cheap or wears poorly and dont want to deal with things like hinges or other hardware pulling out of particle board or MDF. Some people have suggested that we forget about slab and go for something like Shaker (which I gather are much more popular).

Any advice? E.g., is one type of slab door better than another? Are all slab doors problematic or are we worrying needlessly about these things?


clipped on: 07.27.2010 at 12:47 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2010 at 12:48 pm

RE: Help! Need pix of antique farm sinks installed! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: boxerpups on 07.25.2010 at 06:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I did a search for you.
There are some creative, slightly off the wall, coo coo,
and beautiful vintage farmhouse sinks with a desire to
make them work. I hope these images help you.




SticksandStones NZ


Earth Finds

Country Living


Country Living

Classic Stone Kitchens

Ciao Interiors

Custom sinks by AisBuilds

This Old House




Here is a link that might be useful: How to Turn a Salvaged Sink Into an Outdoor Bar


clipped on: 07.25.2010 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2010 at 09:00 pm

Modern Walnut Kitchen (v. long, many pics)

posted by: sochi on 07.20.2010 at 12:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi there - DH went on a picture taking spree in the kitchen tonight, so I thought I might as well post more recent pictures of the kitchen and share the details thus far. I'm very wordy below, just skip to pictures if you like! :)

Still to do:

Two items remain outstanding: 1) backsplash (I know, so embarrassing after all the help and suggestions you guys gave me). I'll post separately on that issue soon, I hope to have something up by September. 2) island. In order to have a truly practical kitchen I need a drop zone in front of the pantry wall and fridge. We probably won't get to this until the winter, but I'm thinking about a wedge shaped island (or table) as drawn in the (clearly not to scale) layout of our ground floor posted below.

Credit Due:

I must thank all of you, for the inspiration, the ideas, suggestions, lay-out advice, everything. I used this board and your expertise heavily and I am truly thankful. We have a wonderfully diverse, fun, exciting and TALENTED pool of people here on GW! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I can't name everyone to whom I am indebted, but I'll try (apologies to the many I've missed): elizpiz, firsthouse, boxerpups, malhgold, mom2reese, sabjimata, florantha, plllog, rhome, buehl, cat_mom, kaismom, billyyc ...

The Story:

This house is situated a block or so from the confluence of two rivers and a waterfall. The house was built in 1877 as a home for the workers at the paper mill located at the falls. It was/is a simple two-story home. There have been four additions to the house over the years - for an urban home on a modest lot it is a decent sized house (about 2,100 or 2,200 sq feet I think), but certainly not a huge house. Perfect for our young family of four (well the kids are young at any rate!). Unfortunately over the years the original interior Victorian character was completely lost.

With the Victorian character long gone, two remaining elements of the house heavily swayed the direction we took with this reno. Eight gorgeous deco/FLW inspired stained/leaded glass windows (two of which you can see in the kitchen) and the MCM-style sunken living room. Given our love of modern design, we took these elements and ran with it for the renovation. I guess the style of the kitchen is "retro-moderne" or organic modern, I don't know.

This was a big job - major foundation work, interior walls moved, ceilings and walls rebuilt on two floors, new insulation, new kitchen, new powder room, moved laundry, etc. etc., it went far beyond the kitchen renovation. We moved out on November 1st, moved back in the first week of March.

The Love:

I love my kitchen. LOVE IT. I'm blissfully happy and my quality of life has been improved. I'm broke of course, but c'est la vie I guess. Here is what I love most:

1. The walnut cabinets
2. The prep sink area (including the veining in the quartzite counters around the sink, my utterly fabulous Kohler Karbon faucet and the round Ticor sink)
3. The floors. The floors throughout our ground floor are reclaimed 120 year old Birch brought up from the bottom of the river a mere couple of hundred meters from our house. They are stunning (IMHO).
4. My fridge. So awesome and a big, big splurge.

I also really love the lay-out and 'feel' of the kitchen. It is open, airy, bright and still very warm or organic feeling. I love that as you walk into the kitchen from the front of the house your eyes are immediately drawn to the long run with the shelves and pictures. As you get further into the kitchen your eyes go to the living room and the lovely garden beyond. You actually have to stop and deliberately look at the clean-up sink run as your eye does not go there naturally. I like this as the clean-up run is the messy part of the kitchen - the sink hides many sins, as does the short wall separating that run from the dining room. The sink run is not visible at all from the dining room and living room. I almost have the best of both worlds - open concept, yet the messy bit is largely concealed from guests and casual observers.

The Problems:

There always are some. The first doozy of a surprise was when we discovered that there was no foundation at all under the mid section of our house (that addition was done around 1900 - the addition was essentially just sitting on the bedrock). A real budget buster that.

The main kitchen problem related to the counter, a poorly placed seam (my fault for leaving that last detail to DH). The problem was corrected and I have an extra two small slabs of quartzite for future bathroom renos. A relatively minor kitchen problem: most of the ceilings on the ground floor are close to 9', close to 10' in the sunken living room, so I expected that kind of height in the kitchen as well. Unfortunately duct work and plumbing got in the way (literally) and the kitchen ceilings turned out to be just a hair higher than 8'. My cabinet maker adjusted plans in time so not a big deal, but I would have liked higher ceilings.

Finally: I was diagnosed with Celiac two weeks ago. It would have been helpful to know this prior to the reno, as the way I organise the kitchen has to change to accommodate my dietary issues. Sigh.

What did it cost?

I'm happy to share approximate costing if anyone is interested. I wrote out costs for everything and then deleted it - I'm not sure what the protocol is for that sort of thing here. Anyway, it wasn't the cheapest kitchen reno ever, but it was more or less in keeping with the value of the house. Let me know if you want me to share, I'm not shy.

The Details:

Cabinets: Walnut veneer, custom, local. The white cabs are painted something, I forgot for the moment - MDF maybe?? I can confirm if needed.

Counters: Quartzite Bianco (Ciot in Montreal was the supplier, Marble
Unlimited in Ottawa the fabricator)

Counters: Stainless Steel counter and integrated sink: P.E. Rail and Sons (local)

Flooring: Reclaimed birch, local: Log's End

Lighting: The undermount lights are by Eurofase. Our kitchen/dining room lighting setup is controlled using a six zone Lutron Grafik Eye unit. We needed to add a low-voltage dimming control unit in order for the Grafik Eye to control the under shelf lighting. Other lights: Alico Newton and Kendall mono points.

Faucets: Kohler Karbon, Kalia Elito Diver

Prep Sink: Ticor


Fridge : Gaggenau
Wine Fridge: Marvel
Everything else: Miele (the speed oven and oven were floor models at a deep discount)

Please feel free to ask anything that I may have overlooked for forgotten.

The Pictures (finally!) (I want him to take a close up of the shelves, I'll post that tomorrow).












Low wall separating the DR from LR

And now a few artsy shots from the kitchen:





clipped on: 07.22.2010 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2010 at 08:16 pm

RE: The farm sink cabinet (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kompy on 07.14.2010 at 07:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

What you got was a sink base to be cut on site.

Personally, I don't like these sink bases at all. They are uninteresting and are difficult to install.

But there are other ways to have a great looking farm sink cabinet. However, a lot depends on the manufacturer. Do they do modifications? or Custom Quote Special Units? Do they have an "extended top rail" mod? Even if not, you might be able to use an over the refrigerator cabinet with side columns and a filler and possibly some molding.

Here's a picture of a non-complete a custom cabinet line. But you can do the same thing with a semi-custom line with some creativity and careful calculations! The cabinet under the sink is, for example on a custom order (disclaimer: not exact dimensions...going from memory):

BFH30 (base full height doors; 30" wide)
-Add 1/2" extended stiles to both ends of cabinet (this will allow for a sink slightly larger than 30" wide)
-Reduce height to 23"
-Reduce depth to 21"
-Flush toe (apply baseboard molding or cut an arch??? Or take doors down to floor!)
-Extend top rail up 3" (this is where u will scribe to fit sink curves.

(note: You can also start the cabinet order with an over refrigerator cabinet and do the same thing. I would prefer the doors going down to the floor....will give you more room for storage and your garbage disposer...etc....)

2-3" Fillers with extended sides on both. Can make 6" to 24" deep.
-apply decorative split post columns or order with fluting.




clipped on: 07.21.2010 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2010 at 06:12 pm

RE: Hidden Gems (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 07.16.2009 at 01:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Bumping this up...all you experienced kitchen remodelers, we newbies need your advice!

These are lifted from my friends's blog...thought some of them were worth listening to:
I have often mentioned that there are things I'd have done differently if I could do my home renovation over again. Well now that we are building a new house, I have the opportunity to do so. Here are some thoughts. I'll keep this post to the kitchen for now. I expect this will be a multi-part series!

Kitchen things I'd do again:

Big, ginormous, single bowl sink. Those two-bowl sinks are utterly useless. I love my enormous 32" wide, 10" deep sink. You can hide all your dirty dishes until AFTER the dinner party. And you can soak stuff. I hated my little sink where half my saute pan would stick up and out of the sink. Like I said, it was USELESS.
Big center island. I love a big workspace.
Prep sink + clean-up sink. Two sinks are essential. But consider placement (see below).

Double oven. Love it for entertaining a crowd.
Warming drawer. Ditto - great for entertaining.

Easily accessible garbage. I have one garbage pull-out by each sink. One has recycling + garbage and one is just garbage. We fill both.

Massive firepower at the cooktop. I have 22k BTU output on two of my burners which I find really useful for bringing big pots to boil or to do anything with a wok. No wimpy cooktops for me.

Dishdrawers. I love my Fisher Paykel dishdrawers. True, they are noisier than others but I love the convenience and ergonomics of the drawers. F&P now has a "tall" drawer which sounds really good to me. I particularly like them for glassware and for ease of loading and unloading.

Tapmaster. I can operate my sinks hands-free. It's very convenient when your hands are covered in raw chicken goo.
Glass-front cabinet doors. Brightens everything and prevents guests from wondering where the heck the water glasses are.
Drawers, drawers and more drawers! Can't get enough of them. With full-extension glides and the soft-close feature. Doors on lower cabinets are a way builders get by on a budget because they are cheap. And mostly useless. The worst thing ever in my opinion? Pull out drawers *behind* cabinet doors. Too many steps.

A walk-in pantry. Honestly, it's just about my favorite thing in my kitchen.

Kitchen things I might rethink or do differently this time around:

Stainless steel everywhere. Fingerprints much? EVERYWHERE! People with children, think long and hard about this. There are some nice new finishes with coatings that make this less of an issue. But kids have a way of imprinting their whole hand right in the middle of the stainless fridge door immediately after you've wiped it. Drives me bonkers.

Black counters. I like dark, simple, "quiet" stone but black is not a good idea. Shows dust and, in my case, everything else. Beware the honed black granite. Dumb, dumb, dumb of me.
Zero-radius corners in your sink. Fancy stainless steel sinks have these sharp corners. The rounded corners are easier to clean. The sharp corners get kinda funky.
A desk space. I have a 27" wide "drop-zone" as you enter my kitchen. That small space is where all the junk goes, including mail. It's entirely too small. Next kitchen will have a very large space for mail, coupons, phone, etc.
A recharging station. I don't have one but I need one.
More space for cutting boards and vertical storage of cookie sheets, cupcake tins, etc. I have one 12" lower cabinet and I need at least double that space.

Garbage disposals. I have one at each sink but I think I may only need one at the clean-up sink. I'm going to try to compost my prep sink remnants. I may not install a disposal at all this time and see how it goes. Seems very non-green to me to have these.
Prep sink placement. In my current kitchen I thought I wanted to space my sinks out so I put my prep sink in the island. But the cooktop is on the wall diagonally behind the prep area. So when I cook, I am always chopping on the island, then I have to turn around and transport the chopped stuff nearly 4' to the cooking zone. Not efficient at all.
On a similar note - a potfiller over your cooktop is pretty sweet if you can swing it. I may not get a potfiller exactly, but I think I will put the prep sink in very close proximity to the cooking zone. That way you get both water and a drain near where you cook. I am always skimming gunk off a pot of something or other and then hoping it doesn't drip on the way to the sink. Between that and the drippy produce from my cutting board, it's messy.
Microwave placement. Mine is a tad too high for me and definitely too high for the kids. I am pretty sure I am going to mount just below counter-height this time. Or just at counter height. I think I am going to put the microwave on a shelf and ditch the built-in kit. The kit costs almost as much as the appliance!
While I love cooking with gas, I am considering an induction cooktop. Induction is incredibly efficient and very sleek looking. Also very easy to clean and very safe for kids. I was thinking that I would couple this with a single wok burner so I can get the romance of the flame (and the "wok hee" thing going on with my stir-fry) but it's not the most cost-effective solution since many wok burners cost more than a whole cooktop. I might put the wok burner outside though so I don't need to put a wind tunnel-like ventilation system into this new kitchen. Also, the gas cooking makes the kitchen really warm up on already-warm summer days. With induction, more heat is going into the pan and less into the room. Still torn about this because I really covet a griddle and that's only happening with gas.

Ventilation. I have a supposedly kick-ass Vent-a-Hood today and for some reason it sucks at sucking. It's a big blower and it ain't quiet. I know it's pulling grease out because I see all kinds of gunk when I clean it. But I can have it running full speed and the room still fills with smoke when I'm wokking. Although a downdraft is kind of stupid as I am fighting physics, I have been thinking of it for the next kitchen only because of the aesthetics. I need to think this one through more.
Plugs and my island. Not enough and not well-placed. Maybe plugmold next time. I've seen people run it just under the lip of their countertops or right under their upper cabinets. I think Sheila Lukins (one of the Silver Palate cookbook ladies) recommended it somewhere.

Two dishwashers. I love my drawers but I am thinking that having one other dishwasher that is of the "standard" variety would be good.
30" deep kitchen counters. Normal counters are 24" deep. The wall where I have my sink is 30" deep and it's so much more useful than the conventional depth. First off, my sink is really large and the extra depth helps with that. But it also helps give workable space even if you have small appliances on the counter. The extra little bit really helps. You don't need special cabinets. They are all "regular" depth. I just had them set forward a bit.

Refrigeration. I have a 48" GE Monogram side-by-side today. It has super cold spots and occasionally food freezes in the fridge in a cold spot. I think this is where the dual compressor thing would be handy that Sub-zero has. Only I don't have that kind of budget. A fridge should not cost as much as an automobile unless it keeps your food cold and gets you to and from work everyday. Generally I need a lot of refrigeration space with 3 growing boys and only enough time to do one big shopping trip per week. I think I may do two 36" refrigerators. Two of everything seems to be the theme here. Thank goodness I have a large kitchen. But I don't want to spend a fortune on both purchasing and then running too many compressors. While I like the built-in look, I may abandon it for cost reasons. And no more side-by-sides. The freezer configuaration is lame.


clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 09:31 pm

opinion wanted - wood for butcher block island

posted by: anotherwhitekitchen on 06.14.2010 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all -

I'm trying to decide what kind of butcher block countertop to put on our island. We have white cabinets and soapstone countertops for the perimeter, and I've been looking at Boos countertops for the island.

Our flooring is a natural red oak - lots of colour variations but not "red" at all. We are painting a creamy colour - BM Indian white.

So what do you think? Cherry? Walnut?

Help please!!!


clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 12:17 pm

Do you chop on your butcher block counters or island?

posted by: bickybee on 06.10.2010 at 12:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our remodel will have a prominently placed island which will be the main prep area with a prep sink. I would like to be able to chop right on the surface because I think it will look better and be more practical than having chopping boards littering the surface.

How many of you chop directly on your counter? What should I be looking for in a "butcher block" material?

I have looked at the Ikea butcher block and didn't like the shiny manufactured look of it. I want something more handsome but not thicker than 2 1/2". Can you basically chop on any hardwood? I'm willing to regularly oil and wax, if necessary, and I won't mind if it develops a patina.


clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 12:15 pm

RE: Blue/gray stained cabinets instead of paint? Am I crazy? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boxerpups on 07.01.2010 at 09:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi lceh,

I can not recommend specific stain colors. Cabot is
what I use and love but I have not used indoor colors.
I love the feel and look of the outdoor deck paint-like
stain outdoors. It goes on like paint and has a smooth
flat finish that looks soft. If a deck can be soft.

I love the ideas you are thinking about. Swedish gray blues
with a wood top. I think it is Brillant. This is very
popular in Germany right now. Everyone is loving the muted
blue grays for their homes with lots of painted white
pieces it is minimal elegance.

Firsthousemp, is so sweet to suggest I might have some
image. I do not have specicifally what Lceh is looking
for but here is what I do have. Maybe it can help.


Martha Mockford UK

Lion Ville Blue Bell


Pale blue House to Home UK kitchens

Reid Brothers Kitchen

Taylor Creek
(This would look even better with a wood island)

French Gray painted island


Washington Post Magazine kitchen

News Cast Gray paint

Attic Magic

Art Factory

Gray Area Dance Blog
dark lower

Martha Mockford UK

Designed to be beautiful

Home bug


clipped on: 07.10.2010 at 12:43 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2010 at 12:43 pm

RE: pull-out pantry vs individual slide out (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: zelmar on 12.21.2008 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

loves2cookfor6's pull-out is beautiful!

I guess it really depends on the space you have available. Full pull-outs only seem useful if they are quite narrow. The beauty of individual pull-outs is that you have access to the items from both sides, FRONT and TOP. I like pulling an item off the shelf without having a shelf above blocking access and light. In my mind, the full pull-out doesn't function much differently from fixed shelves except for giving access to 2 sides.

I used to love going into Ikea showrooms and opening the full pull-outs. They were fun and seemed so clever! But when it came time to choose a 15" wide Ikea pantry for our laundry room, I abandoned the full pull-out (which I really thought I wanted) for the practicality of the individual pull-outs. I couldn't think of a single functional reason for getting the full pull-out.

In our house, having drawers on the bottom of our kitchen pantry works well since only the bottom drawer is blocked if something is left on the floor in front of the pantry.

I keep my most used items in the front of our pantry shelves. I just have to open the cabinet doot to grab one of these items instead of pulling out anything.



clipped on: 07.10.2010 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 07.10.2010 at 11:57 am

RE: Hidden Gems (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: elizpiz on 07.20.2009 at 09:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

So many great ones here!

- Like Sweeby, I love our electrical outlet under the island. Ours is under the overhang and is perfect for keeping our laptops charged when we're hanging out working, checking emails, surfing GW, etc!

- The "custom" shelf our cabinet maker built for our Magic Corner units. I really wanted a super susan but the layout wouldn't allow for a full one, and it really bugged me that the Magic Corner units didn't use the corner space fully. The solution he came up with was to build us a custom wooden shelf for each corner that is wider and deeper. Fits lots more stuff and I'm sure he has used this with other clients.



- Our all fridge and separate freezer drawers. Perfect size for the two of us (full fridge and freezer in basement for entertaining)

- Our extra cookbook shelf built into the top of one of our pantries

...more cookbooks!

- Our under the stairs drawers for shoes and boots


- How the woman who hand painted our cabinets also painted our freezer drawer grill so that it perfectly blends...
Integrated freezer drawers

- And how Trixie's eyes match the new cabinetry! (couldn't resist this one :-)
trixie matches the cabinets



clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 06:54 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 06:55 pm

RE: Hidden Gems (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.26.2009 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

We racked our brains for something to do with an 8" empty spot next to the fridge -- we ultimately nixed a broom closet in favor of slide-out bin shelves. They're little but very mighty, and hold a pantry's worth of stuff:

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 06:54 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 06:54 pm

RE: Kitchen TV - Full Motion Mount (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: scoutcat on 06.13.2010 at 08:51 am in Kitchens Forum

We purchased our wall mount at Monoprice ( It can extend out as far as 20", and swivels. Monoprice seems to have the best prices for it, as well as for cables and other accessories.


clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 03:02 am

RE: How Should My Pantry Be Organized? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: plllog on 06.13.2010 at 12:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I also have floor to ceiling divided in two, with shelves above and ROTS below. A lot of the organization was based around maximizing storage space around where the hinges were. The upper ROTS, due to where the hinge is, have a short bottle (think ketchup) sized tray shelf, then two that are one can high. The bottom two have taller spaces and will hold tall water and juice bottles, soy sauce, cleaning vinegar, etc. The lowest of the upper shelves has wine and liquor, on a stable, structural (non-movable) shelf, well above curious child height, and away from light and heat. Above that papergoods, and at need a ladder height rarely used things that had no better home. Within the ROTS I have things organized by type: Condiments, sauces, pasta and grains, dried fruit and nuts, canned things for cooking like tomatoes and beans, etc.

I have storage for baking supplies and spices within the kitchen proper, and also for bread and snacks.

My best advice on organization is to make the most used stuff easiest to get at, keep heavy things low, organize according to how you cook so that things you'll use together are next to each other, and thing compromise for where things fit best.

Or alphabetize. My herbs and spices got alphabetized when I moved back in. I thought it was silly. I always used to organize by type. In my new spice rack they all face the same direction, so alphabetical turns out to be easiest! Weird, huh? I don't remember your family situation, but if you have small children about you can get them to try alphabetizing for you (that counts for fun around here, as well as learning).


clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 02:51 am    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 02:51 am

RE: Possible materials for a 12 foot island (without seams) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: busybme on 06.14.2010 at 04:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was also going to suggest copper.

John Boos could build you a butcherblock piece that long. for more info. or call 217/347-7701 and ask for Norbert at their outlet center for best pricing.



clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 01:28 am    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 01:28 am

RE: pull-out pantry vs individual slide out (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: loves2cook4six on 12.19.2008 at 12:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

LOVE love love my pullout. It is one of my favorite kitchen features and the only thing I can say is wish I had done more of them. This one was just squeezed in to utilize otherwise empty space. Had I known how amazingly efficient it is I would have put 3 more 12" wide ones in the pantry. I love that nothing can ever get lost on these shelves. You can access from both sides - perfect.

Ours is 12" wide so doesn't get too heavy, tupperware modular mates fit it perfectly although I am ashamed to admit I didn't think of that, it just worked out that way. Our cabinet maker attached one of those toe kick openers so it stays closed and "locked" when shut.

It's in my baking center so when I need something, just pop the door, get what I need -put it back, get next ingredient - put it back, etc. No doors in the way, no opening and closing inner drawers.

Pull out Pantry

Pull out Pantry


clipped on: 06.15.2010 at 05:49 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2010 at 05:49 pm

RE: Pics of kitchens w/ butcher block and marble countertops? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: janie-k on 04.22.2009 at 04:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think butcher block and marble will look beautiful together! I seriously considered it for our kitchen... Here is a link to some kitchens from House Beautiful... the 3rd kitchen used a combo of butcher block and marble.

Here is a link that might be useful: House Beautiful Kitchens


clipped on: 06.10.2010 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 06.10.2010 at 01:10 am

RE: please help me with countertop decision-soapstone?? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: sabjimata on 04.25.2010 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sweetpea, your kitchen looks amazing! The countertop is a show stopper.

Is there a fabricator near you who works with the soapstone? He should be able to get you whatever stone you want. Have you ordered any samples from M. Teixeira? They seem to be the source of soapstone to everyone in the US and their soapstone prices are very good compared to what else is around.

We are getting a custom sink shipped from NJ to Florida from them and it is costing less than if we went with a Florida fabricator. Including materials and shipping.

You can have your fabricator template the countertops and M. Teixeira can ship it to you. The Belvedere soapstone is the hardest soapstone and it is in the cheapest price category.


clipped on: 06.09.2010 at 03:32 am    last updated on: 06.09.2010 at 03:32 am

RE: Compost bin: on counter or below counter? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: celticmoon on 03.18.2008 at 11:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine was the stainless bin in a drawer. Google 'hotel tray' I was half crazy trying to find a tray or tupperware bin the right width and depth, then someone here pointed me to hotel trays (love this Forum, hey?) They come in many sizes. I got 2 so I could have one in play while the other is in the DW. Make sure the lid does not have a notch for a serving spoon. Works well, though I'd like to rig something so the lid lifts away when I open the drawer and drops back when I close the drawer. For now I just slide the lid back and forth. There is dead space at the back of the drawer where I park my potato ricer and a couple other rarely used things.

compost drawer insert


clipped on: 06.08.2010 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2010 at 09:49 pm

RE: Does anyone have a Fisher & Paykel double oven OD302SS? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: snowbaby on 04.14.2010 at 09:05 pm in Appliances Forum

I chose a single F & P oven in my previous kitchen. I loved it, and when I moved they had already switched to the newer model. I much preferred the looks of the old one (pictured above) and was able to find someone with a few in stock. I too was worried about the electrical system because I knew that was a problem with earlier models. The great thing was, I was able to get the serial number off the oven I was considering buying. I telephoned F&P, and asked them when it was manufactured. They were able to tell me the exact month and day. Because I knew that the problems were fixed in approximately November 2005, and this one was made later, I bought it. I am so glad. It is a wonderful oven! I'm a baker, and I really care.
I haven't explained how I know when the problems were fixed. I talked to an engineer at F&P just before I bought. He told me what serial numbers to look for.


clipped on: 04.22.2010 at 04:48 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2010 at 04:48 pm

Which faucet did you buy - and why?

posted by: elisamcs on 09.12.2006 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm in the home stretch of purchasing now - only faucets and lighting to go. I'm totally bewildered by the choices in faucets, both brands and styles. I think I want a one-handled, side spray type because I want to put a water filter on the faucet. I'm too old and fat to go crawling under the sink to replace filters. That being said, I'm still confused. I can't decide to go with one with an escutcheon or not, which brand is good, what kind of cartridge is good, etc., etc. Any opinions?


clipped on: 09.14.2006 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 09.14.2006 at 12:16 am