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RE: Shower Glass Surface Treatment - Clearshield or Showerguard (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: HLupu on 04.10.2012 at 10:36 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi SadieV,
I work for Guardian ShowerGuard - there is quite a difference between ShowerGuard and a product like ClearShield. As mentioned, ShowerGuard is applied by Guardian, the manufacturer, through a vacuum sealed ion-beam process. This eliminates application flaws and provides coating uniformity. Products, like ClearShield are applied by a fabricator - not in a vacuum sealed process.

Another difference, is how the coating reacts with water drops. It is not uncommon for water droplets to adhere to ShowerGuard coated glass. This is because all water repellant products are derived from organic chemicals, as seen in post manufacture wipe on treatments, which break down over time. To be fully permanent, ShowerGuard is derived solely from inorganic chemicals. This means your enclosure will maintain its corrosion resistant qualities with zero reapplications.

Finally, ShowerGuard comes with a Lifetime Limited Warranty that is handled through Guardian (actually myself) should any issues with the coating arise. ClearShield has a 10 year warranty, I am unsure how they manage their warranty claims. I hope this helps- you can visit our website to look up a Registered ShowerGuard Dealer near you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Guardian ShowerGuard

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clipped on: 04.21.2012 at 07:27 am    last updated on: 04.21.2012 at 07:27 am

RE: Tiling conundrum - Question about construction of niche (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mongoct on 04.18.2012 at 02:13 pm in Bathrooms Forum

1) Backing: Yes, add a small piece of plywood on the attic side of the studs. The piece of ply just needs to be wide enough to hit the two studs, and tall enough to go from right above the 2-by joist to a height above the top of the niche.

2) Insulation. Though it's not the perfect way to detail the vapor barrier, take your existing kraft faced insulation that is in the niche stud bay and peel away the FG batting from the paper. Don't separate them into two independents pieces...just pull them apart so they are still connected and hinged at the top, like two pages in a book connected by the book's binding.

Have the kraft paper go on the bathroom side of the plywood and 2-by joist. Have the insulation go on the attic side of the plywood and 2-by joist. From the attic side, if you can, add additional fiberglass batting behind the niche area. That'll help insulate the transition area where the batting is between the studs in the two bays adjacent to the niche stud bay, and where the insulation is "in the attic" in the niche stud bay so to speak.

I'd give you different advice were this a true exterior wall versus what it is; conditioned space (bathroom) versus unconditioned space (attic). Or if your barrier were something other than kraft. No worries though.

3) The hardie in the niche: Install the back piece first. Construction adhesive to adhere it to the drywall and to the 2-by. You can use a couple of screws to attach it to the plywood.

Use your hardie pieces that line the sides, the top, and the bottom of the niche to "pinch" the edges of the back piece of hardie in place. You can screw your liners into the studs.

Aside: When framing the niche, I pitch the bottom piece of 2-by-4 a bit for drainage into the shower versus installing it flat. Then when I set the hardie liner on that I know the liner piece will be pitched, and as a result, the tile or stone on the bottom of the niche will be pitched.

4) Here's an excerpt from an old thread where I framed a niche that just so happened to be on a wall lined with plywood. This was on a Kerdi Shower versus a HydroBan though.


ABOVE: Niche construction. Cut into an existing wall, I had to remove portions of two studs in this partition wall. You can see the stud marks on the drywall in the back of the niche opening. Use kiln-dried lumber, not green or pressure-treated. This wall is skinned with 3/4" ply. But that's another story in and of itself!


ABOVE: It doesn't show in this photo, but even the framing is pitched for drainage.


ABOVE: Though the shower walls are lined with cement board, the niche interior is lined with strips of hardie. Cment board tends to crack/crumble when cut into thin strips, hardie is a bit more accommodating. I then pretty it up with thinset, squaring the corners, etc. You can see the shelves are pitched for drainage.


ABOVE: Finished niche. Finished dimensions; the top opening is 11" tall, the bottom is 14-1/2" tall. Both are 36-1/2" wide and 4-1/4" deep.

NOTES:

love the niche. slope shelfs for drainage
clipped on: 04.21.2012 at 07:16 am    last updated on: 04.21.2012 at 07:17 am

Window in shower how to Kerdi

posted by: cabinlife on 01.14.2008 at 05:13 am in Bathrooms Forum

Background:
Shower over tub
Tub set in alcove (meaning tile will be on three walls)
Aluminum clear window in shower
Window installed incorrectly by previous owners = rotten rough opening due to water intrusion
Original tile was on drywall by previous ownders = mold everywhere
Completely replace everythingincluding window
New window is vinyl, tempered, obscured glass, casement/safari-style
I know having a window in a shower is frowned upon. However, in our situation we have no choice but to replace it. We did not budget to update the exterior of our house.

I have been sifting through all the posts on this website regarding Kerdi.
- I did see Mongos post titled "Kerdi Shower". This is just what we need for tiling the three walls in the shower.
- I did see bill_vs website where one of his customers had a window in a shower
http://creativeceramicandmarble.com/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=124

Questions:
1. How do we install Kerdi to the wall with the window?
2. After install of Kerdi, how are windows tiled?
3. How do we prevent water intrusion where the Kerdi meets the window?
4. We have the window but havent installed it. Any tips or rules to follow to ensure we dont repeat the past? Do we treat this like any other window in another part of the house?
5. Do you place cement board on the inside of the window?
6. Anything else we should know?

I am hoping someone can provide step-by-step instructions that we can follow...fingers and toes crossed.

We are new to tiling and want to make sure to get it right the first time.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 05.17.2009 at 08:01 am    last updated on: 05.17.2009 at 08:01 am

RE: Cabinet door manufacturer recs (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shelayne on 04.13.2009 at 12:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I ordered "test" doors from refacedepot.com and was pleased with the quality. To give you an idea of cost: I had ordered one pair of 18x15 paint grade, flat panel; one 18" drawer front with v-groove flat panel; one 15x30 v-groove door; and 6 mullion doors--3 with 4 lites (16x15 each), and 3 with 6 lites (16x27 each) for $300.00, shipping included. The mullion doors were the most expensive, as each lite adds to the cost.

I was very happy with the doors, but decided not to use them as they were unable to do the hinge boring I needed--they only have one standard template. I did order all my mullion doors from them, as they do not need hinge boring.

What I really appreciated about their website is that step-by-step, they take you through the door styles and edge profiles, and you instantly see how much it will cost. You do not have to wait for an e-mail estimate. It was free shipping and handling for any order over $250.00.

Randy Howse--rhcdoors.com also is very competitively priced, and Ameridoor doors are very inexpensive. I also looked at MaplecraftUSA, Scherr's, Northland, and azcabinetdoors--to name a few more. All the above names are recommended by people that have used them. The prices on azcabinetdoors were amazing, and I did receive a quote from them that was more than reasonable--in fact I think I was shocked. It was less than $700 for my whole kitchen! I had to make some tweaks with my doors, and since my last quote, their prices have increased. This was a case of "you snooze, you lose" for me. Ah well.

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clipped on: 04.16.2009 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2009 at 09:26 pm

Finally - Elizpiz's Finished Kitchen

posted by: elizpiz on 03.25.2009 at 12:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, here it is I am finally posting my finished kitchen. A quick "before and after" full album linked below.

Before...
So, before....

View from basement stairs

After...
And after...

The beautiful Horsefeathers bookshelf

Some background and few details:

Our house is almost 100 years old and as such, the original kitchen was quite small about 9x10. We have an unusually shaped lot, and the shape allowed for us to be able to knock down an exterior wall and build out. Here is the original floor plan:

Original floor plan

I love to cook but for all of my adult life I have never cooked in a kitchen that was bigger than 9x10. I've never had a dishwasher before, unless DH counts (we didn't have one in my family home either) and the efficiency in our "zone" came from being able to reach everything because the space was so darn small!

The objective was to make the kitchen look like it was always there, with more up to date appliances. To achieve that, we had the cabinets hand painted and distressed and chose heritage colours. We used reclaimed oak planks for the island countertop; the hardware is a combination of hand forged cast iron from England and finds from architectural salvage. Countertops and the main sink are soapstone.

An imperative was to find a home for my 300+ (and counting) cookbook collection. We achieved that through clever cabinetry and the acquisition of a beautiful old hutch.

But most of all, we wanted the kitchen to be the heart of the house, and it really is. I can honestly say that we don't sit in the living room anymore!

We started the project in May and it was completed in December. The past few weeks have been spent getting the finishing details (stools, etc). Along with the kitchen, we rewired the house, excavated down to a new laundry room, added storage, repainted everything, redid the bathroom in the basement etc etc... It was a house reno disguised as a kitchen addition.

We didn't work with a designer - the ideas were ours, brought to life by our GC - and primarily me spending *hours* right here with all of you dear GWers. So THANK YOU for all of your generosity, your advice, your wisdom and your passion for all things TKO I wish I could throw a giant GW party to give you all a big hug!

Top notes (feel free to contact me if you have questions):
Soapstone counters
Custom cabinetry
Liebherr fridge
TurboChef double ovens
BlueStar cooktop with centre grill
Modern-Aire hood
Walker-Zanger backsplash
Miele Excella full dishwasher
FP Dishwasher Drawer
Kohler faucets: potfiller, main sink, prep sink
Hardware perimeter cabinets: Whitechapel
Hardware island and fridge: architectural salvage from Old Good Things in NYC
Bar stools from America Retold

Fair warning my album has lots of pix I just couldnt bear not to include the details.

Eliz

Here is a link that might be useful: Elizpiz's Kitchen Slideshow

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.25.2009 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2009 at 09:54 pm

For all intents and purposes, our kitchen is done.

posted by: zipdee on 02.12.2009 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm not sure a kitchen is *ever* really done. :) Besides decorating more and tweaking here and there, ours is pretty much finished though .. I guess. This was a total DIY project done by my DH and I. We live in a 1910 cottage and were looking to keep flavor of the home, but also have a working kitchen for a family of five.


The stove is a restored 1948 Tappan Deluxe.
The Hoosier cabinet is being used as my free standing pantry area.
My double ovens are hiding behind that pocket door which is left open when they are in use and until the cool.
The sink is a English Belfast sink, which we found at an antique store that imports them.
The floors are the original heart pine, all the pine beadboard is new though.
My center light I found at a local antique mall, my DH rewired and hung it for me. It's out of a school that was built in the 1920's

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

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clipped on: 02.12.2009 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2009 at 08:57 pm

RE: Please Help Me Find this Kitchen (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: arlosmom on 01.09.2009 at 03:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow, thanks guys! Jessica, your post inspired me to upload some recent photos...I finally finished painting the lower cabinets just before Christmas, plus now we have glass in the upper cabinets (which you can't really see) and a shelf for the microwave. The next project is the shelving in the pantry, which will hopefully happen in the next couple of months.

Here is a link that might be useful: recent kitchen photos

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clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 10:05 pm

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.19.2008 at 03:57 pm in Metalworking Forum

Well, we did it. It's a lot of work, but I can say that these countertops are gorgeous and well worth the time invested. And they cost me about $21/sf total, which is almost as pleasing as the knowledge that they are fairly green and can be repurposed by whomever comes after me.

1. Create the substrate out of mdf. We used fairly nice stuff made ostensibly from recycled fiber. We glued two 3/4" sheets together with construction cement, then screwed them tightly from the bottom (we wanted the top absolutely smooth so as not to have to use levelling compound. Later this became vital since the adhesive we used was fabulous for gluing copper to mdf, but not to anything else).
Clamped overnight. Then cut with table saw and dry-fit them to the cabs:

2. Then I flipped the pieces over and applied RedGard waterproofing membrane on the bottom and back -- everywhere we weren't gluing copper. Just in case, since it is a kitchen. It's awful gloppy stuff that you roll on like liquid plastic and dries bright red:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

3. Next we took 1/4" by 1.5" copper barstock and mitered it just like wood to fit the edges. It cut just fine on an old compound miter saw with a high-tech metal-cutting blade by Tenryu. Glued it to the mdf using TC-50 adhesive by Better Bond, clamped it well:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

4. I was highly impressed by the TC-20 adhesive: no VOC and it set enough to handle lightly in about 15 minutes. We kept the edging clamped for a few hours just in case. All edged, a counter piece looked like this:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

5. Cut the top copper sheet with a metal blade on the jigsaw. Dry fit it with about 1/4" to 1/2" to spare. We used 20oz Revere copper sheet from a local building materials supplier. It comes in 3foot and 4foot widths up to 120" long.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

6. Glued that sucker on! Nerve-wracking, but in retrospect the easiest part of the entire job. We fit as many factory-cut edges to the countertop edges as was feasible, then J-rolled the whole schmear and clamped it but good on all sides, using extra mdf scraps as buffers so as not to dent the copper with clamps:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

7. Used a router to trim all the necessary edges to just barely overlapping the edging, if at all. No pics, sorry. As aliceinwonderland can attest, do this outside in the driveway or garage if at all possible!!

8. Then we sanded it up using 180 grit. The copper is almost shockingly workable -- you can put whatever pattern you'd like into it with the sander, a hammer, whatever. [I'd suggest waiting to do this until after you've glued the smooth sheets first, for optimal adhesion.] I worked my way up to about 600grit mesh on the orbital sander, just to make it nice and smooth.

9. I'm glad we decided to do the edging first, since this put the main seam on the side rather than top, and it's virtually invisible from just a little distance away:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

10. I was still concerned about durability and the seam opening up, so I went back and stuffed some Just For Copper epoxy onto/into it. Sanded it back down so the seam is very tiny and smooth, and I feel better knowing that it's probably bombproof. It's obvious that the seam will pretty much vanish as the copper oxidizes, too.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

11. Due to an L-shape, we did have one place where we absolutely had to join two sheets on top. We used the factory-cut edges for these, and then I epoxied atop the line with Just For Copper and sanded it well. Over time, the line will hopefully become less noticeable as well, though it doesn't look bad (honestly, the photos make it look much worse than it is):
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


Ta dah!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

So that's that! Feel free to contact me with any questions, but better yet post them here for everyone to benefit -- this thread was my sole inspiration and guidance during the process.
Cheers and my heartfelt thanks to jenathegreat, aliceinwonderland, and all of you for the inspiration.

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clipped on: 11.08.2008 at 07:42 am    last updated on: 11.08.2008 at 07:42 am

Prettykitty's Classic Vintage White Victorian Lacanche Kitchen

posted by: prettykitty1971 on 10.06.2008 at 05:48 am in Kitchens Forum

I have been asked by several to post my kitchen redo so, here goesforgive the repeatsforgive the length...

We began designing a rework of our home in 2004. The back of the house (where the kitchen is located) was okay and livable, but it did not flow or have any stylistic continuity to the front of the house, which is so amazing in itself. I felt like I was in a different house when in the kitchen. The main part of the house was built in 1890 and still has a Victorian feel, the kitchen and breakfast room and porches were built about 1920 in the Craftsman era and kept being added onto and changed to the point that an "extra" half bath had been added jutting out into a hallway and disrupting important flow. There were a few things that had been done that would make me stare and say "why???" The kitchen also felt very far away from the living areas of the house.

I have slipped in "before" shots where appropriate on the web album.

before:

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

after: same view

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

The house was near museum quality in the front rooms, but it was like entering the twilight zone in the kitchen and breakfast room, breakfast room (yes, 2 of them) and bathroom(s). Our house had 2 nightmarish half baths downstairs, one of which had been built in the middle of a major passage way and was so small a space that the previous owner who had built it bumped out the opposite wall just a funky bit to accommodate the space. I would not even allow people to use that bath as it was not vented properly (think smelly) and would not flush well (think plunger). Mainly, we wanted to restore the architectural integrity to the back of the house, which included removing a diagonal path and countertop that was the main path to the kitchen, raising doorways up to 10 feet to match the doorways in the original house kitchen doorways etc, were all 7 & 8 feet, one directly behind a 10 foot opening, so it was readily apparent something was amiss. Another goal was getting a back door and opening up our back porch which had been totally enclosed and door removed the room that went nowhere with a window looking into the current kitchen. I also was determined to have French doors from the kitchen that went out to a deck which was the same elevation as the kitchen floor, to the North, shady side of our property.

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

We hired an architect that we had worked with previously with great success we saw eye to eye on everything. After several attempts, he fired ME not the other way around. He would not draw what I wanted, kept giving me drawings of what he thought we should do, that we should work with what had been done to the house "dont open the old back porch, build on a new one; put the bathroom in the old porch," etc. That was $3000 down the tubeswe were already starting out in the negative! A dear architect friend of mine said she would work on the design. She drew what I wanted. I would ask for suggestions, but she assured me that my ideas made sense and would be really improving our home. The drawings were not cheap, but it was well worth it and we are even better friends, although, I was afraid I would be fired at any moment!

Our cabinet maker said he was going to get me a nice "johnny-back" cabinet for over the toilet, I said no, you're going to make this...

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

A word about the bathroom: I loved this apron sink but knew I could not use it in the kitchen with the island we wanted, so I came up with this cabinet. The floor is American Restoration Tile and includes encaustic tiles. I almost went with white subway tile, but I felt it would be too utilitarian for the space, so these are travertine stone cut into bricks. They are the kind with holes and I paid a large fortune for the tiler not to fill the holes with grout! Many like the bathroom more than the kitchen. We had a family member who was very much a sportsman and inherited all his fishing and hunting items and gear and have chosen to use it in decorating to add a bit a masculinity to the house and we loved him very much so we enjoy having it around us.

I have to say that I am proud of myself for coming up with this design, the architect drew it, but it was all me and my husband thinking it out and after living a year in the house, we knew what we needed and how we need it to look. I am picky if you havent figured it out.

The basis for the design was figuring out where the openings had to be in the rooms. I wanted the French doors on the north wall, we had to have the passage to the dining room, and we needed a double opening to the breakfast room. So with all that, that dictated where we could and couldnt have cabinets, a stove, a sink, etc. We were also returning the flow to the back of the house, so that made it easier to figure out where the back hall need to go and what was left over would become the new full bath. I will admit that in the days leading up to the wreaking crew coming, I was still trying to figure out if we could get a better layout out of the space.

after receiving yet another delivery from ebay, my husband asked how many historic fixtures I had purchased, my quiet response "I don't know..."

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration


How I came to have a Lacanche range (www.frenchranges.com): One day I was researching Thermador rangers and ended up on the Gardenweb forums. Someone had written that if you are considering a Thermador then you should take a look at one of these and provided a link to a photo of what turned out to be a Lacanche range. I showed the photo to our neighbor, who we had been taking care of everyday for the past 2 years, just to show him. He was always taking cooking classes, taking photos of his food, practicing garnishes, buying every kitchen gadget on the market, etc. He had a digital Wolf range that he was in love with so I knew he would appreciate seeing this beautiful stove I didnt know such a thing even existed. Paul saw the French Range the Lacanche and said "You NEED that in your kitchen!" I said "No, I dont need anything of the sort" (our previous range was 30 years old, so anything would have been better, a camping stove would have been an improvement!) and he said "You NEED that stove!" He insisted on buying me that stove as his gift to the kitchenit was also his idea that our cabinets go all the way up the 12 foot walls "you might as well go all the way with this." My husband likes to say he had to pay for the kitchen to go with the Lacanche!

Given how my main hobby has to do with historic preservation, I knew I wanted a classic kitchen. I wanted marble countertops and inset cabinet doors and those French doors! I spent hundreds of dollars buying kitchen magazines and found several key ideas from that process. The glass front cabinets and the stainless steel countertop on either side of the French Lacanche range came from one layout I found, the open shelves from another and the pink pantry from yet another photo from a magazine (theirs was bright yellow!). Our butlers pantry was actually in our historic house plans from 1920, so we just recreated it. About our butlers pantry: the bottom 2 cabinets on the left are false fronts they dont open they are where the air return in located. The vents are on the opposite side in the back stair hall, so this just camouflages the box of the air return.

air return in the bottom cabinets

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

The glass cabinets, I thought about that problem of food storage and how unattractive that is and how to make glass front cabinets work for me. I just felt glass would be more appropriate for the look I wanted - it just looks elegant to me and says "original" although Im sure that most true Victorian cabinets had wood fronts. I planned what would go in the cabinets before we got too far in design. I have about 3 complete sets of china in addition to two sets of everyday dishes and needed a place to put/display them, so then I needed a place for food. Its hard to visualize how much space you need for food when your food is all packed up for construction! I happened to have a little nook (it was our downstairs half bath, you could get your knees knocked off if someone tried to enter the bathroom while you were on the toilet!) that we originally designed as a desk area, that I made into "the pink pantry" which actually goes around a corner and is behind the refrigerator, where all the mess of the pantry is along with microwave and toaster oven. The part of the pantry that is visible (if you're at the main sink or range)stays neat and tidy given the way that it is designed - narrow shelves for spices, baking ingredients and display. I saw it in a magazine with its Victorian-ish trim and gave it to my carpenter and he just went to work. The counter in the pantry is just wood - out of money for any other surface and since there is not a sink in there it is not a problem. It is painted pink as that is the color that my 4 year old picked out - it was a compromise as she wanted the entire kitchen to be pink! She also wanted Dora the Explorer knobs - yes, there is such a thing - but I put my foot down on that!

Where the "extra bathroom" had been removed at the back stairs and other demolition had taken place near the new/old back door, we found exterior sub walls under the plaster and sheetrock. In old houses this material is something like 1 x 6 set on the diagonal. I had been thinking about paint colors and what I was going to do with all this extra wall and I decided how wonderful it would be if it were returned to its exterior foundations wood siding. I love texture and my contractor thought I was nuts, but he did do the siding for me and milled corner pieces for near the back door. We painted the siding the cream trim color like the rest of our interior house. This really added a wonderful historic and unique quality to the project. The house really looks like its evolved and been added on to in a rather careful way.

Exterior siding and trim on the inside

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

For our back hallway we mimicked the wainscoting that is in our foyer and dining room, but on a cheaper level we used bead board and MDF. The bead board wainscoting is the cheaper stuff: it does not have as deep cuts/lines/beads as the good stuff and the flat vertical and cross pieces are not wood, they are that MDF that they are always making stuff out of on HGTV. The top piece is wood trim.

bead board wainscoting

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

When I was picking out materials for our kitchen I finally reached a moment where I was afraid that the kitchen would be nicer than the rest of the house - which I did not want at all - so I began to try to pick out elements from the original house that could be reproduced in the kitchen, if only in variation, like the wainscoting and the slider doors instead of pocket doors.

We have 4 countertop surfaces(it works because you can only see 2 at anyone time), one of which is unpolished black granite, which looks a lot like soapstone, then marble, polished granite and stainless steel. I really wanted a veined marble for the island and despite everyone, even the marble contractor telling me I did not want that as my island, I got it.

I chose polished marble on the back splash so the gray veining would pick up the gray of the stainless steel, but I also considered bead board (we used it on our butler's pantry, I really love the look and it can be an economical choice if you get the "fake" stuff) and painted pressed tin. We have the marble island and love it and all of it's etchings that my 3 kids inflict upon it. They are not really noticeable unless you look for them.

We have slider doors on reproduction barn door hardware (www.barndoorhardware.com) that divide our kitchen and breakfast room. Our house has pocket doors, but we could not afford to build 2 walls, so this was another research project and something we are really happy with and that everyone marvels over. I really think it turned out better than pocket doors would have and it is unexpected, which I like.

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

Our cabinets are creamy white with feet for an unfitted look. I did choose to get appliances that will take a custom panel, to be hidden into the cabinetry - careful if you get inset cabinet doors (where the door closes flush into the cabinet box) appliances that take a panel are designed to take full overlay doors we just barely avoided a crisis situation that would have required me to be tried for murder. The main cabinets go all the way up the 12 foot walls, it is quite impressive looking, but fits the style of our home. Our bathroom cabinet is painted a red to give the impression of old wood - I could not afford to have "good wood" so came up with a color that happened to work really well for us. I bought most of my reproduction hardware from Van Dyke's restorers, Historic House Parts, and Rejuvenation, all online. I have different types of drawer and door pulls, just one or two in key areas, to help the kitchen look as if it evolved (Two are fish pulls, I love them!). Our kitchen finally feels like it goes with the rest of our home.

From Our 1890 home and kitchen remodel/restoration

One other thing that worked out really well for us: you will notice in the web pictures that originally there were 2 windows on the wall where the stove goes. The outside of our house is a rough stucco (it was "smothered" in stucco about 1920, the Victorian gingerbread and elements are under the stucco visible in our attic!) and I doubted that my contractor could match the stucco to my specifications we had already had previously unsuccessful attempts on other stucco repairs. On the outside of our house, the windows appear to be there I had wood shutters installed in the openings, the windows simply look shuttered. Its a nice touch to our exterior and I did not have to worry about the stucco being less than perfect.

Lacanche Range, Sully Model - High performance, dual-fuel, double-oven stoves from France, one oven is electric, the other gas, top is gas and has the French cast-iron simmer plate over one of the two 18,000 BTU burners.
16 colors and finishes available www.lacancheusa.com
Bosch Dishwasher
Range vent-a-hood: Rangecraft
Ice maker Marvel Industries
Compactor - Kitchenaid
Shaws Original Fireclay Apron Front Farm Sink by Rohl
Blanco stainless steel bar sink
Perrin and Rowe nickel plated sink faucets and sprayers Stainless Steel Countertops and range shelf by Bray Sheet
Antique fixtures bought on ebay, polished and wired by local craftman

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clipped on: 10.06.2008 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2008 at 07:36 pm

RE: Make-ahead Meals - Please help my mom (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: woodie2 on 09.25.2008 at 02:10 pm in Cooking Forum

Posted by: Gazania (My Page) on Tue, May 13, 03 at 9:37
This is one we love. And it makes 2 casseroles. One to serve now and one to freeze.

Two-Bean Cassoulete

4 oz. smoked turkey sausage thinly sliced
2 c. chopped onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts cut in 1" pieces
2 cans(14.5oz each) low sodium tomatoes
1 can(15oz) black beans, rinsed and drained
1 can(14.5oz) great northern beans, rinsed and drained
1 c. reduced-fat chicken broth
2 c. sliced carrots
1 tsp dried thyme
1/4 c. snipped fresh parsley

In a pot over medium heat, saute sausage, garlic and onions about 3 mins. add chicken and cook till browned and cooked through.

Add rest of ingredients except parsley. Stir to break up tomatoes.

Spray two 2 quart casseroles with cooking spray, and divide mixture into them. Wrap one for freezer. Finish cooking the other.

TO FINISH COOKING: Bake, covered at 375 for 25 min. Stir and bake 15 minutes longer. Stir in parsley.

Bake frozen casserole 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Each casserole serves 4.

SHEPHERD'S PIE
2 pounds ground beef
1 tablespoon oil
2 onions, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
Pinch thyme
Dash Tamari Sauce
Dash Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup beef broth
2 cups cooked mixed vegetables (leftover or frozen)
5 potatoes and 2 garlic cloves, boiled and mashed with butter and milk
1 tablespoon butter
Brown meat in oil and drain. Stir in onions, carrots, celery, garlic and thyme and cook 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, flour and broth, Tamari and Worcestershire. Add cooked vegetables. Transfer to casserole dish. Top with mashed potatoes and dot with butter. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Serves 8

CINDY MAC'S Louisiana BBQ Shrimp

1 1 1/2 lbs. large shrimp
1 stick butter, melted
3 tablespoons Worcestershire
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon olive oil

DEHEAD shrimp if necessary, but don't peel. Place in a shallow dish (I use a pie pan). Mix remaining ingredients together and pour over shrimp. Cover and place in the refrigerator to marinate for 2-3 hours. BAKE in preheated 350 degree oven uncovered for 15-20 minutes. Serve with French bread to sop up all the wonderful juice.

What about soup? A great hearty soup (or two) with bread or rolls and crackers and you're off to the concert. There are 100's of 1,000's of soup recipes out there.

SAUSAGE TORTELLINI SOUP

1 pound sweet Italian sausage meat, crumbled
1 cup chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
5 cups beef broth
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup red wine
1 can diced tomatoes with their juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 (8 ounce) can tomato sauce
1 cup sliced carrots
2 cups zucchini, sliced or diced
8 ounces tortellini pasta

Brown sausage in 5 quart soup pot. Remove sausage and drain, reserving 1 tablespoon of the drippings.
Saute onions and garlic in drippings. Stir in beef broth, water, wine, tomatoes, basil, oregano, tomato sauce, and sausage. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer uncovered for 40 minutes.

Stir in zucchini and carrots. Simmer covered for 10 minutes.

Add tortellini and simmer for 10 minutes.

Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese on top of each serving.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.30.2008 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2008 at 08:04 pm

RE: Make-ahead Meals - Please help my mom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: barnmom on 09.25.2008 at 07:26 pm in Cooking Forum

This standby came to mind:

Chicken Marbella

From the Silver Palate Cookbook

* 4 chickens, 2 1/2 lb. each, quartered
* 1 head of garlic, pureed
* 1/4 c dried oregano
* salt and pepper to taste
* 1/2 c red wine vinegar
* 1/2 c olive oil
* 1 c pitted prunes
* 1/2 c Spanish green olives
* 1/2 c capers with a bit of juice
* 6 bay leaves
* 1 c brown sugar
* 1 c white wine
* 1/4 c chopped parsley

Combine all ingredients except brown sugar and white wine, and marinate overnight.

Arrange chicken in pan, spoon marinade over, and sprinkle with brown sugar and wine.

Bake 50-60 min at 350 degrees, basting often.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.30.2008 at 08:03 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2008 at 08:03 pm

DIY Banquette with Coffin Drawer - Pics

posted by: bethv on 08.19.2008 at 10:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our banquette was one of the key parts of making our kitchen plan work. But, we had a devil of a time trying to reverse engineer a plan from all of the pictures we saw. So I thought I would post ours with pictures & info as a small contribution to offset all the wonderful help and advice we got from the amazing GWers.

Hats off to my fantabulous DH for his perseverance with the arced wall and making the drawer work!!

Of course, many will recognize the inspiration from kitchenkelly and her fantastic morgue drawers : ) Our drawer is very tall so I think of it as the coffin drawer. Okay, so we keep the dog food & treats in it - but everyone needs a little levity in with their storage solutions.
NOTE: The bench isn't trimmed out yet, I'm posting now 'cause marilyn234 was asking for help with bench plans.
Photobucket
Photobucket
The table is a soapstone top support by 2 oak planks and a 4x4 table leg. The planks are 12" and 8" wide. It's 30 wide by 60 long. The table is rounded at the right end and the left end is flat and sits into a wall/frame on the peninsula end. The face of the peninsula is covered in bead board that was scored in the back to make it curve. The effect is a left curve to the table top. The leg against the peninsula is a half leg. The idea was to have the peninsula hug the table and not look like two squares butted up against each other. The soapstone on the peninsula was cut to arc in to mirror the curve on the outside end of the table. The top of the arc is 4" deep by 30 wide.
We got BM satin impervo matched to cabinets and painted everything to match.
Here's a picture of the bench frame. The heal kick is tall - the seat hangs out to create the heal kick. The drawer isn't centered because we would run into the wall if we did - or we'd only have a shallow drawer. The back of the bench is 30" tall. We wanted it short because the chairs face a fireplace. It is good height - very comfy. the bench is 54" long and 17.5 deep (finished seating depth). A detailed plan with measurements is below.
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Photobucket
The bench is very comfy with the angled back and the foam padding. The bench seat is plywood with 3" foam & batting and the back is plywood with 2" foam & batting. The foam was angle cut where the seat and back meet. I used a bread knife because I could NOT find the electric knife - word of advice - FIND THE ELECTRIC KNIFE!!!! I used sharpie to draw the angle and lines on the foam. You may notice that I screwed that up the first time and had to glue it back together and re-cut it (with the freakin' bread knife!). The foam also hangs over each exposed edge by at least 1". I would have it over hang the sides more so we could use a wider trim. The foam stops 1-2" from the seat inside edge so the back can rest there. You need to affix the foam to the plywood with a spray adhesive - I used 3M adhesive. We covered the foam in upholstery fabric using a stapler. It's a bit tricky to get the pattern to line up so make sure you have plenty of overhang to adjust up/down & left/right. We laid it all out - both seat and back - taped everything down - stapled the back - then lined up the seat again - re-taped and stapled it.
Photobucket

The drawer is a big box of pine planks that are screwed together. The screws run perpendicular to the force so it's very sturdy. We used orange shellac and lacquer to finish the wood. You can see in the photo above the 1x4s that run horizontally inside the frame bottom to hold the drawer glides. The drawer box is 48" long x 10.5 tall x 16.75 wide (outside measurement). We got a drawer face from our cabinet company. It's wonderful!!!!! (Can't wait unit the drawer pulls arrive!)
Photobucket

We keep the dog food, meds and treats in here. I got bins from the container store that each hold about 20 lbs of dog food. Maybe I should call it a trough drawer!
Photobucket
In this picture you can kind of see the wall/frame that is attached to the peninsula to support the table.
a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh108/bvanney/?action=view&current=bench1.jpg" target="_blank">Photobucket

IT still needs trim along the sides and bottom of the seat (beaded screen trim) and base board on the bottom of the bench and peninsula.

Here's the plan:
Photobucket

Sources:
Fabric: fabricguru.com
Drawer glides: schockmetal.com 037 series 47.24 full extension 255lb capacity - $105 a pair - great deal
Legs: Osbournewood.com

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 10:34 pm

My new 'antique' kitchen....maybe 80% done? Lots of pictures

posted by: arlosmom on 07.24.2008 at 11:07 am in Kitchens Forum

I still have lots to do before my kitchen is completely done, but what's left is all DIY and may take months before we get to it all. Thanks to all on the forum -- my kitchen is so so so much better for what I've learned here.

Background: my husband and I bought our house almost 4 years ago. Built in 1905. Owned by the same family since 1942. Husband and wife raised 5 kids in this house with one bathroom (!) We had been looking for an old house with unique architectural details in un-updated condition. We found it.

Here is the old kitchen (my stove, not the one that came with the house):

old kitchen
only real counterspace in old kitchen
farm sink -- keeping in remodel
old kitchen w/back stairs

I was actually sad to see the old kitchen go. It had only the one built-in cabinet and the cabinet under the sink, no dishwasher and and no counter space, but it was charming and it "hugged" me (AKA: it was really small).

We tried very hard to make the new spaces fit in with our old house. In the new space whenever possible, we used reclaimed and salvaged materials (all of the lighting, doors, hardware and wood flooring are from ebay and architectural salvage stores)...our version of being green.

We turned the old kitchen into our breakfast room and built our addition beyond that. Our addition (first floor) has the new kitchen, a small walk-in pantry, a screened porch, and a powder room.

So here is the breakfast room and our new kitchen (I still need to paint all of the lower cabinets, need to built a microwave shelf, need to put glass in the upper cabinets, etc, etc.):

from kitchen into breakfast room
breakfast room into kitchen
Photobucket

The fridge cabinet has a broom closet. It has doors on the sections with the dog cookies and food, but I took them off to paint them and I haven't put them back on yet. We are keeping our old fridge for now, but I had the cabinet made to accommodate the jennair french door fridge with white floating glass panels like jgarner has (DH now says he thinks the jennair is too "fancy" ggggrrrrr. Oh well...we're out of money for now anyway).

fridge cabinet with broom closet

Past the fridge is a back hallway with a small walk-in pantry to the left (shelves still to be built), a screened porch straight ahead, and a powder room to the right)

arch inot back hallway

door to screened porch
hood
backsplash behind range
spice cabinet
back wall
Photobucket

My husband just re-habbed the center "swoop" from the old sink cabinet and installed it in the new cabinet (obviously it still needs to be painted). He also made the two verticle curving side sections of the cabinet that mimic the curve of the sink. I'll sew a curtain that will be prettier than the dishtowel I have pinned in the center section now.
sink with

Counters are Santa Rita soapstone (last oiled about two weeks ago):

Photobucket
Photobucket

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clipped on: 07.26.2008 at 07:37 am    last updated on: 07.26.2008 at 07:38 am

RE: Beeswax/Mineral oil Paste for Soapstone. Need new source (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: staticfritz on 06.02.2008 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Making your own is really very very easy...
I made over a gallon for ~$30 shipped

I found about 2/3 mineral oil and 1/3 beeswax worked for the best consistency.
just melt them in a pan together over very very low heat, pour into a container and let cool.

get the best food-grade extra light mineral oil here:
http://www.steoil.com/catalog.asp?productgroup=70fg

this is an example of a beeswax off ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Pure-Beeswax-1lb-Block-Cosmetic-Grade_W0QQitemZ150253418883QQihZ005QQcategoryZ134295QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.17.2008 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2008 at 03:38 pm

RE: Banquette anyone? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: krabbypatty on 05.14.2007 at 02:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have a banquette in our guest room that my DH built. It has hinges for storage. I made box cushions for it. It's a very cozy spot.

If you have children or are a messy eater at all, I would recommend laminating the fabric for the cushions, whether you attach them to the seat as described above or make/have made box cushions (caution: sewing with laminated fabric is challenging). Most nice fabric stores will laminate any fabric you choose. I saved $ using a company in SC (see link below).

I sent them my fabric and they sent it back laminated. It is a nice, soft, matte finish. So now they just wipe off and will last a long time.

Here is a link that might be useful: IPA Southern Fabric Laminating

NOTES:

KitchenKelly did Crypton fabric
clipped on: 05.05.2008 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2008 at 10:17 pm

RE: One Drawer Pull Or Two Drawer Pulls? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pepper07 on 04.21.2008 at 12:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I read once (Martha Stewart maybe?) that any drawer wider than 27" should have two knobs. It sounds arbitrary, but I've followed that guideline, placing the knobs a quarter way in from each side, or centered over door below, and it has worked well, both visually and functionally. Not sure if that applies to pulls...

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clipped on: 04.21.2008 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2008 at 01:19 pm

RE: Anyone have a cabinet to store a step ladder? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rmkitchen on 11.18.2007 at 10:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I wonder if evergreendan's is the one you remember seeing:

It's in the gallery section. I'm pretty sure the stepladder is from Williams-Sonoma, like cat_mom's.

NOTES:

From BBB
clipped on: 03.25.2008 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2008 at 08:58 pm

Soapstone DIY finally complete!

posted by: don_chuwish on 03.23.2008 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Friday night I was amazed to find myself putting the final piece of backsplash on. Saturday was spent mostly cleaning up and putting things away.
Thanks to everyone who has posted info that I read or answered direct questions, this forum has been invaluable. Now it's my turn to reciprocate. I don't pretend to be a pro or any kind of expert, but I hope this helps from a DIY standpoint.
I'll link a few pictures in this posting, but you can see the whole gallery on Photobucket, each picture has comments and between them they pretty much tell the story. Album is here:

http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g267/d_roady/DIY%20Soapstone/

Some teaser images:













Various parts of my story in progress have been posted in other threads, but I'll try to mention some key points here.
We were very interested in keeping cost down, so the DIY option with soapstone was wonderful to discover. A quality granite or Silestone install would have been triple the cost.
We went to M. Teixeira in N.J. and picked our slabs. If I had it to do over I would NOT have chosen two side by side slabs. The vein patterns are too similar and end up repeating each other in our kitchen. Out of 4-5 side by side slabs I'd take the 1st and last, for example.
When planning how the slabs will be cut, I'd suggest the backsplash pieces be taken from exactly the same spot as the counter they will sit on later, so that the veins and everything match.
Black epoxy was best for 99% of the seams in our install, but where it crossed a white vein I had to make some corrections - digging the black out with a Dremel and replacing with "Instant Install 29" epoxy, which cures to a translucent white. The Instant Install 29 is great to work with, 14 minute working time and then it suddenly hardens up, locking things into place. You can sand it 15 minutes later (thus the name, 14+15=29). It can be tinted to match the stone too. 5 minute epoxies are too fast for big seams I think.
Make sure your cabinet tops are a perfectly even plain, 6' long levels help. Shim any and all gaps - none of mine were more than 1/16". Then get a bead of caulk on the cabinet tops before resting the stone on them. This just makes for perfectly even support all around. We used bottle jacks to lift the stone up a few inches, caulk under it, then set it back down gently.
Doing the caulk and a seam at the same time is daunting, but the caulk has a long setup time, so it works out OK. You can slide the stone over an inch to close the seam after buttering on the epoxy. Jam it as tight as possible to make a thin seam. Most important for a good looking seam is to have the two stones perfectly aligned - any height difference will have to be fixed by sanding one down to match the other.
Diamond cutting and shaping tools are great. They cut the harder parts of the stone just as well as the soft parts, which makes for nice straight lines and even surfaces. A diamond grit drum on an angle grinder is great for shaping the edge of a sink cutout, for example. Regular sandpaper drums don't do as well.
The dust from cutting and shaping is amazing, wait till it's warm and do as much outside as possible. If you can't, like me, then get a good fine particle dust filter for your shop-vac and always attach a collection hose to the tool, or have someone hold the hose right at your cut. It makes a huge difference.
When cutting you need to support the stone underneath, so it won't fall away and break off before the cut is done. I had 1/2" thick styrofoam sheets available, but thick rubber mats from Costco would work too. The photo album shows a good example of this in practice.
For final sanding I tried a million things. What worked best on the flat areas (to clean up seams) was a 5" wet sanding pad on a dual action polisher at its lowest speed. I used a Porter-Cable 7336. Sanding pads were 240 and 400 grit. For a backer pad I used a flexible one made for car buffing, rigid pads were too hard to handle. For product specifics, see my other post on this topic. Edges can be sanded with a good hand block and wet sandpaper. The highest grit with any benefit I found to be 400. Others may stop at 220 or 340 - just a matter of preference.
I feel like there's a million things to say but this has rambled on enough. Happy to answer questions and add details in follow up posts. But if you're looking for tips, please do check out the full Photo bucket album. There's 80 images covering every step of the way.

Thanks again everyone and happy Easter!
Don

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.24.2008 at 07:09 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2008 at 07:10 pm

RE: kitchen door tile 'rug' in wooden floor -- anybody so this? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rhome410 on 03.15.2008 at 04:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did this in our entry. We just put the tile down and still have to grout, so don't have a lot to offer in the way of experience over time. It's been there enough for me to know that it's sure tougher than the hardwood and will take more abuse. I don't worry about setting things on it, or people walking on it with dirty shoes, so think it'd be a great thing to have where your family takes off their shoes.

Here are a couple photos of the dry fit and when it was being installed. I posted the dry fit photo so you could see more of what it will look like without the lovely blue tape!

tile laid out but not installed

entry tile w/o grout

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.15.2008 at 08:16 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2008 at 08:16 pm

RE: Our kitchen's maiden voyage/hate my rangetop? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.27.2008 at 09:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I have to chime in here cuz I'm the same way when it comes to using new things; excited and petrified at the same time! Somehow I keep forgetting that "the new" will soon enough become "the familiar" and I will be using those new things comfortably before too long. It's just way too easy to become overwhelmed when using something new the for the first time or ten!

You will find that you don't need to use the burners at full blast for most things. Also, I found that I had a ton of splattering when using my old Farberware, Reverware, and Tools of the Trade skillets/fry pans on my Wolf range, and a lot of burnt on stuff in the pans themselves. I treated myself over the holidays to some All-Clad pieces, and there is a noticeable difference when using heavier, more solid, clad cookware (less splattering, though I do still have some if I have the flame too high, and stuff around the bottom edges of the pans don't burn).

As for the Wolf clean-up, yeah, it can certainly be a PITA at times. Once you get a routine down though, it's not too bad. I'd asked at the Wolf/SZ showroom what to use for spot cleaning without smears and streaks. They suggested Perfect Kitchen (it's carried at BB&B). It does a decent enough job for minor splatters and such, much better than the other stuff I've tried. For a good cleaning, I take off the grates and clean them in the sink (2 at a time), and then place them upside down on some paper towels on the counter. I then remove the black enamel burner pans, one at a time, wash them in the sink, and dry them with an ordinary dishtowel (if I need to, or feel like it, I'll go over any finger smudges with a dry microfiber). Then I just pop the parts back on the range. It's been recommended on GW to use Dawn Power Dissolving Gel (spray) to remove burnt on/baked in grease and crud and I agree that it works pretty well. When I take apart the top pieces to wash them, I'll spray them with the Dawn, and let them sit a little while, and then "scrub" them with a blue scrub sponge (the all-purpose, no-scratch kind) in the sink and rinse well. Really stubborn spots might need to sit longer. The only things I don't clean unless something's dripped on them, are the burner rings themselves. I'll give them a wipe when I'm cleaning, but don't feel the need to scrub them regularly, but, that's just me.

Give it time, and you will start to enjoy using all your new things. One day it will suddenly hit you how at home you feel and then it will really feel like your kitchen!

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clipped on: 03.04.2008 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2008 at 02:47 pm

RE: Finished Marble and Lavastone kitchen! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: napagirl on 03.02.2008 at 02:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Stiles - Fabulous kitchen - love everything about it. I asked a question on your other thread about the hood dimensions. You can answer here if that's easier.

Oofasis - Melinda had another thread (something like "To Corbel or not to Corbel"). You may want to check that out.

Below is a direct link to her kitchen pictures:

Here is a link that might be useful: Stiles/Melinda's new finished kitchen pics

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.02.2008 at 07:17 am    last updated on: 03.02.2008 at 07:17 am

RE: DDo you like your beadboard backsplash? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: cooperbailey on 02.27.2008 at 01:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had forgotten to come back and post photos of our beadboard backsplash. Sorry for that. This beadboard is actually birch beadboard panels. It was installed right over the plaster. My DH finished the top and bottom with very small molding that resembles chair rail molding. I think it finishes it off well without being too bulky. We are very very pleased. Right now it is finished in a satin paint but DH is to seal it with a semigloss urethane or maybe keep it satin, but I can't decide.







Please ignore the plywood windows and also the dogbone on the floor!! Sue

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.01.2008 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 03.01.2008 at 11:56 am

RE: Best place to order a butcher block top for island. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jeannema on 12.11.2007 at 06:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is our Cherry BB from LL. I finished it with waterlox. I think it was only $329 for a 25"X12' (1.5"thick). There are some imperfections, but for the money I think it's a great deal!!!

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Kelly

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.21.2008 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2008 at 08:39 pm

Traditional Classic Styled White kitchen- 99% finished!

posted by: muranogirl on 01.21.2008 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi girls! My kitchen is almost finished. Although not a reno, it was a self built home and we are still finishing areas of the house including the kitchen. I had asked you for help choosing a backsplash, and thank you all so much! We chose a creamy matte subway in a 1 x 2 mosaic. It should come in this week and I've attatched photos of it. I'm so excited! Sooooo.... here's our 99% finished kitchen!
Details...
Creamy white cabinets (arctic), island in Alder stained with burnt sienna by Westridge Cabinets.
White Kashmir Granite
Black Iron pulls and knobs
Kenmore Elite Stainless appliances, including fridge, dishwasher, mircrowave, slide in range, garborator.
Delta aberdeen faucet
Daltile 1 X 2 mosaics full body porcelain tiles in "buiscut"
Wall paint Creamy White benjamin moore, Ceiling paint custom-mixed light gray, trim paint cloud white by BM.
Central vac pan/kick under island
Island measures 5 feet by 8 feet and features 6 inch turned leg posts extended to the corners. (island fits 4 bar stools)
Flooring, engineerd hardwood oak by bellefloor in wenge.
Wine rack on end of island.
Triarch "The Classic" pendants over island.


The backsplash that I've ordered.


view from livingroom
(please ignore the mess, we were tiling the entry in this photo)



Pantry door has since been frosted..


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clipped on: 02.15.2008 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2008 at 09:04 pm

RE: What is the best under cabinet lighting? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: jamesk on 01.20.2008 at 12:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Sea Gull Linear lighting under my cabinets. I've been very pleased. It utilizes xenon lamps spaced along a cable that attaches to the underside of the cabinet. You can space the lamps at what ever distance you like, the cable can be cut to any length, and the lamps are dimmable.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sea Gull Linear Under-cabinet Lighting

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.15.2008 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2008 at 06:28 pm

RE: Anyone have bail pulls or drop pulls on their drawers? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lsandler on 01.04.2008 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have small round drop pulls as well as bigger ones--all from Top Knobs. I love them! They have a stop and do not bang against the cabinets.

Photobucket

NOTES:

Normandy collection
clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 08:38 pm

RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: many_hats on 02.11.2008 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I also use a drawer similar to some of the photos above but I have small metal containers with magetic bottoms. I slid a very thin piece of metal (from HD ~$11.00) under my Life Liner and the spices don't move (you can see the grey colour of it under the spices). The taller containers are from Lee Valley; they do not come with magnetic bottoms but I took some magnetic tape and cut pieces to fit the bottoms then glued them on. They all have glass lids so I can see quantities at a glance. The smaller ones have lids that twist to holes for shaking and a wide port for pouring.

The drawer is 24" wide, 21" deep; the face front is 6 1/4" high and the inside sides are 4 1/4" high. I have just under 40 spices stored so it's not a huge collection but I also have room for a 7 1/2" wide knife block and utensil storage as well so it could hold a lot more spices if I removed those.

spice drawer.

NOTES:

cj47, I bought the little magnetic containers at Staples Business Depot. I'm in Canada--not sure if there are Staples in the US. The display picture showed them with spices in them but I guess Staples was thinking paper clips, etc. and I do use them for that as well.
However, I have seen them at many places including Wal-Mart in the housewares section and at Canadian Tire (a big hardware big box store). They are sold individually and I've also seen them with both a metal mounting strip and a metal counter stand (think standing document holder) for storage of a few spices on or under a counter for example.

clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 08:22 pm

4'' Broom Closet from Ikeafans

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2008 at 12:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ikeafans has 2 threads about how to build a 4" broom closet. (Thanks for reminding us about it Napagirl!)

We may have a 6" tall filler (90") b/w our ovens and cabinets to the right. From the Ikeafans website it looks like StacyLu (with a box prebuilt) and Jgsearls (w/o a prebuilt box) had theirs retrofitted...after everything else was done. Since our contractor has not been very receptive to new and different ideas, we're thinking of doing this ourselves...but it would have to be after the fact.

Has anyone on this site done this? Does anyone know if we can just attach the filler strip to a 2x4 or 2x6...or do we have to have a finished plywood piece (or, is that what filler is???)?

Two threads about this, both on Ikeafans:

4" Broom Closet Modification (Stacylu)

Pullout Broom Closet Modification (Jgsearls)

Note: I think you have to be logged into Ikeafans to see the pictures.

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clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 08:02 pm

RE: 4'' Broom Closet from Ikeafans (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rmkitchen on 02.11.2008 at 04:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi buehl!

I'm not a member of ikeafans but I do have these pictures courtesy of dianalo:

Our cabinetmaker has made one for us and I believe it's six inches wide (I think because he gave me the "okay" to purchase a five inch pull for it). It will sit in between our freezer and pantry and he's kitted it with stainless peg board so we'll be able to hang all sorts of doo-dads. I believe part of it is sitting in our raw kitchen right now (out of the way of the drywallers) but won't be installed until next week at the earliest. I'll be happy to post pictures of it once it's in.

I'm so grateful to dianalo for posting these photos last summer -- ours is not an enormous kitchen and this should be a clean-up godsend!

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clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 07:57 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 07:57 pm

RE: Soapstone is in! (pics) (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: kristenfl on 02.11.2008 at 08:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

First, your countertops look wonderful. I'm waiting for my faucet and then I put in the call for the Black Venata that I picked out.

And guess what? I saved this for when I get mine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Beeswax Oil At Reasonable Prices

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clipped on: 02.12.2008 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2008 at 09:35 pm

New Marble & Soapstone Kitchen - LOTS of pics!

posted by: soonermagic on 11.13.2007 at 06:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

We moved into our new construction home a few weeks ago, so thought it time to post some pics. This forum was extremely helpful in my planning this kitchen so many THANKS to everyone for sharing their ideas and what they love and dislike about their own kitchens.

Island with prep sink and Sharp Micro Drawer:

Built in Pantry Hutch:

Bertazzoni Range (36" 5 burner - loving it!). Backsplash is a beveled edge subway tile:

Franke Orca sink with Hamat Julianne faucet. The three air switches operate sink light, undercab lights and disposal:

Ticor Prep Sink with Hamat Julianne faucet:

Pendant lights (West Elm)

Marble countertop:

Soapstone:

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clipped on: 02.12.2008 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2008 at 09:28 pm

RE: Can anyone show me creamy or ivory cabinets with glaze? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dlspellman on 02.08.2008 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are mine. Base color was Benjamin Moore Linen White, with a light coat of a dark brown glaze - mostly to catch in the corners and distressing (hide the dirt and dings). I had mine distressed before the glazing - having lived with white cabinets before, I knew the knicks were going to come anyway - might as well hide them in the overall look!
a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/dlspellman/kitchen/?action=viewt=overviewwall.jpg" target="_blank">Photobucket

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clipped on: 02.12.2008 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2008 at 09:23 pm

97ish%: soapstone, white cabs, green subways

posted by: hoffman on 12.16.2007 at 12:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I still have an annoyingly long and slow-moving punchlist that I am beyond impatient to finish, but it's finally close enough to at least post photos. I have been mostly lurking and occasionally posting here for a year while planning this renovation -- and living through 5 months of construction -- so many, many thanks to all of you! There's no way this kitchen would have turned out as well without this incredible resource. It has many classic Garden Web features (a tapmaster + Never MT, of course!) and, most importantly, soapstone counters which I never would have found without you all.


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

(All the yellow notes are punchlist items...)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

(There will eventually -- supposedly on Monday -- be a table between the banquettes...)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Thanks again!

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clipped on: 02.10.2008 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 02.10.2008 at 09:44 am

RE: Before and After Pictures (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: jeannema on 12.07.2007 at 07:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Terible,

This is what we followed to attach the counters...

Attaching the Top to Cabinets:
The top should be attached in 3 places across the width (on the front edge, the middle, and at the back edge). It should also be attached at approximately 12" intervals throughout the length of the top.

In order to allow natural movement of the top, the screw holes should be made with a 3/16" hole on the "fixed" edge of the top and 3/8" elongated holes in the center and on the "free" edge of of the top.
Screws with washers should then be used in the center of the holes to secure the top.
DO NOT forget to pre-drill the holes.
DO NOT over tighten the screws as this will restrict the natural movement of the top.
Use small metal angle brackets to secure the top to the side of any cabinets that do not have a solid top or bracing material.
Where the top does not rest on a cabinet, it must be supported by strips of wood.
If your top contains multiple pieces, ensure the corner fittings have been tightened after the top has been installed.

kateskouros,

I think wood counters would be nice in a laundry room.

Kelly

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 09:27 am

RE: Soapstone Counters (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 12.09.2007 at 11:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome to the Kitchens Forum!

Check out M. Teixeira Soapstone. They will ship soapstone nation-wide. You can also order a complete sample package that contains samples of all the current stones they have in stock. They're decent sized samples as well.

My favorite is Black Santa Rita Venata but I wasn't able to talk DH into it...although I suspect our black granite will go better with our more traditional/formal kitchen. (Maybe the laundry room!)

There have been a couple of threads discussing DIY of soapstone, but I don't remember how detailed they were. The best thing to do is do a search of the Forum using the search box on the bottom of the thread list page. See the link below for the results of one such search.

Be aware that this site is very active and even though there are 67 pages of threads, they roll off pretty quickly. After about 2 months of inactivity a thread will fall off. (That's why you'll see some very informative threads bumped occasionally--it's to keep it from falling off--but that will only work so long since there's a 150-post limit to a thread.)

HTH!

Here is a link that might be useful: Search results for: soapstone + DIY

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 09:07 am    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 09:07 am

RE: Calling all creative minds - want to make white kitchen dazzl (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: amanda_t on 02.04.2008 at 03:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know what you mean about seeing it everywhere... I think a subtle but definitely unique way to change this style of kitchen would be in the hardware. Consider stained wood knobs instead of metal pulls. Or unlacquered brass bin pulls instead of the ubiquitous nickel. I think it would be very pretty to have unlacquered brass pulls and lighting and faucets. Or maybe furniture-style bail pulls instead of bin pulls. The more I look at the stained wood knobs, the more I love them. Someone on the forum has them, Ivette (pirula)? Is that right? Anyway, they are traditional-looking, but just different enough.

Here is a link that might be useful: Painted cabs with stained knobs

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 08:39 am    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 08:39 am

RE: Butcher block island top -- Advice needed!!! (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: The Butcher Block Top (Guest) on 12.10.2007 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you plan on using your butcher block top as a cutting surface, then you need to plan on it looking like a cutting board after time. Thats it, plain and simple. If you want to keep your butcher block looking new all the time, then your gonna have to re-surface it periodically if you keep cutting on it. A quick sanding and application of mineral oil and your back to new. I recommend only Watco Butcher Block oil. For more info on butcher block care and maintenance check out our website. http://www.thebutcherblocktop.com

Here is a link that might be useful: The Butcher Block Top

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clipped on: 02.08.2008 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 02.08.2008 at 09:59 pm