Clippings by bella_trix
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RE: SOFTWARE for planning and planting? (Follow-Up #5)
Nothing beats a good set of Excel spreadsheets, a taple measure, and internet research.
This is a screenshot of part of my 2010 plan. Kind of hard to see the specific text, but it is an accurate representation of my garden layout.
I have explored the software options and found most of them seriously deficient in one way or another.
<none>clipped on: 11.21.2009 at 02:21 am last updated on: 11.21.2009 at 02:21 am
RE: Fortex vs Emerite (Follow-Up #1)
"Fortex" is one of my main snaps. It starts out rather strangely, with runners growing outward, rather than upward. These runners need some training initially (not one of my favorite characteristics), but once that is done, they are strong climbers. The vines are not as heavily branched or foliated as some pole beans, so I space them more closely, thinning to 2@12".
The pods are very long, up to 11-12" for me. I've only occasionally eaten them in the filet stage, preferring them somewhat larger. Their flavor is excellent eaten raw, sweet & crisp. They hold their quality for a long time, remaining stringless even when quite large. The frozen quality is one of the best.
"Fortex" has many good qualities: good cool-soil germination, resistance to rust, and eye-catching pods of excellent flavor. If it has one weakness, it is the tendency of the long pods to bruise in the wind. Because of this, I always grow it in the shelter of other tall crops. The yield is also more spread out than many pole beans; good if you want fresh beans over a long period, bad if you want to can large quantities all at once.
Susan, my one experience with "Emerite" left me in agreement with your comments... I was not impressed with either its yield or its climbing ability. I was, however, very impressed with the pod quality. It has, by far, the best frozen quality of any bean I have grown, even better than "Fortex". The pods are exceptionally round & straight, and are very firm either cooked or canned.
Like "Fortex", "Emerite" has very good cool-soil germination. I grew it as part of a 7-variety pole bean trial in the 90's, in what turned out to be a very bad year for beans. The germination was the best of all varieties, nearly 100%. A prolonged period of cool, wet weather in mid-Summer really set all of the beans back... most became infected with rust to some degree (except "Fortex" and "Garafal Oro"). "Emerite" was severely stunted, but when the weather warmed, it made a full recovery (as did "Rattlesnake").
The results of that trial are what led me to change my main-crop snap from "Pole 191" to "Fortex", a decision I have never regretted.
"Emerite" performed much like a half-runner for me; most of the yield was borne in the first 3 feet above ground. But then, that was in a bad year, on a plot of only fair fertility... and I have learned much more about beans since then. Looking back, I have often wondered how it might have performed in better weather, with better care & greater spacing. I am planning to grow it again in 2009, to find out.
<none>clipped on: 11.12.2009 at 11:57 am last updated on: 11.12.2009 at 11:57 am
RE: Best sources (catalogues or email) for GOOD gardening handtoo (Follow-Up #2)
I too like redpigtools. Gardeners Supply is another but they are NOT cheap. Just avoid the big box stores.
Several other online sources were discussed in this recent discussion over on the Tool Shed forum here.
Here is a link that might be useful: Tool Shed forum - Where to buy quality tools discussion
<none>clipped on: 11.10.2009 at 12:12 pm last updated on: 11.10.2009 at 12:12 pm
RE: hummingbird salvias (Follow-Up #1)
Honeymelon blooms early, but I haven't found the flowers to be as attractive as the species. Uliginosa is hardy here, guaranitica is hardy with mulch. The variety 'Argentine Skies'has nice sky blue flowers. Greggei and 'Indigo Spires' are hardy with mulch, the latter needing a large mound. Leucantha rots over winter , even with mulch. Pineapple and rosebud sage survive winter here with a fairly heavy mulch, although not frost hardy. Lantana camara 'Miss Huff' and L. horridulus (butterfly plants)survive winter here with heavy mulch. Key to winter survival is sandy soil,planting a little deep, and an oak leaf mulch applied late enough that voles don't make it their home.
<none>clipped on: 11.06.2009 at 12:50 pm last updated on: 11.06.2009 at 12:50 pm
RE: Bacillus thuringeinsis and Squash (Follow-Up #3)
Great website - I haven't had a chance to listen to your interview yet, but I did use BT and nematodes against the borers last year.
I tried spraying the plants down, but I think I discovered the borers too late. It might have helped with later infestations, but I don't know. I used Thuricide mixed 4T to a gallon. Wear goggles when you spray it! It irritates the eyes.
I also injected BT directly into the infected vines. I mixed it at 1 teaspoon BT to 1 cup water and injected 1ml at each spot. I used an 18g needle and 3ml syringe. They are available from any farm and ranch/livestock catalog or feed store. I also tried injecting predatory nematodes into the zucchini vines. I mixed it up as instructed, transferred to the sharp needle (the one it comes with is useless) and injected .5 to 1 ml per spot. THIS IS IMPORTANT: wear safety glasses/goggles when injecting. The squash vines will clog the needle occasionally and, when that happens, the needle comes away from the syringe and the bt or nematodes shoot back directly into your face. It is not any fun flushing your eyes out for 20 minutes and then frantically searching the internet to find out if the nematodes are about to eat your eyes (they won't, there have been accidents at the facilities that grow the nematodes and everyone is fine). Also, do not dispose of the needles directly into the trash. Drug stores sell containers for used needles (for insulin needles).
Something worked, but I don't know if the nematodes or BT did the job. It definitely saved my African and Delica winter squash. Unfortunately, some of my squash were too far gone to recover.
I'm going to try it again next year and attempt row covers for the time period when I had problems.
<none>clipped on: 07.17.2009 at 11:36 pm last updated on: 07.17.2009 at 11:36 pm
RE: using PVC pipes to hold up row covers? (Follow-Up #2)
I think my hoop covers are what you're talking about. I use 1/4 inch smaller PVC pipe in short pieces bolted to my beds to hold it in place like a flag pole stand. I use 1 pipe every 2 feet or so. I clamp the plastic to the pipe with cheap large binder clips. They rust but they're cheap.
Here is a link that might be useful: Sinfonian's garden adventure
<none>clipped on: 05.02.2009 at 09:37 pm last updated on: 05.02.2009 at 09:37 pm
RE: using PVC pipes to hold up row covers? (Follow-Up #1)
I've done both PVC and poly pipe for row covers.
No problem getting the 1/2" into the 1", as SCH40 has an outside diameter of ~7/8" (class 200 is less). You may want a little piece of wood for a shim that will make you feel better about the structure moving in strong wind. If your span is short, your second insertion may be problematic and ensure you do this in the warm sun on a warmish day to make the pipe more flexible - e.g. leave the PVC in the sun for a bit before you insert.
The best way to attach the cover to the pipe, IMHO, is black poly pipe cut in half, about 2-3" long, every foot or so depending upon your wind conditions, shave off sharp points left in the cutting. Install over cover to 1/2" PVC. Else Charley's Greenhouse has clamps. (note mouseover)
I like my hoops ~3' apart, I'm windy here and I like more stability - YMMV. In fall, remember, you can put clear poly tarps over the row cover for an extra layer of protection, and this weight is borne better with narrower hoop spacing. Shade cloth is heavier than white row cover, too.
<none>clipped on: 05.02.2009 at 09:36 pm last updated on: 05.02.2009 at 09:36 pm
RE: Bamboo supports for Squash (Follow-Up #3)
It is not bamboo but I'm sure is a start and can be done with 1" round bamboo.
<none>clipped on: 03.14.2009 at 04:58 pm last updated on: 03.14.2009 at 04:58 pm
RE: Another sweet potato question (Follow-Up #1)
The sweet potato is a root. It sprouts from the end wher it attaches to the vine so it is important when starting in a vertical position to have the proper end down.
<none>clipped on: 02.22.2009 at 03:47 pm last updated on: 02.22.2009 at 03:48 pm
RE: Moon and Stars Watermelon (Follow-Up #19)
1. Watermelons grow best in very rich soil, translate that as lots of organic matter.
2. If the watermelons haven't grown in two months, something is bad wrong.
3. Temperature can suppress growth. Watermelons grow best with temps above 70 degrees at NIGHT.
4. Too much water can cause the roots to waterlog and die. The best way to deal with this is to plant them in a raised hill about 6 inches above the surrounding ground.
5. The worst thing you can do to a watermelon is give it too much nitrogen. They develop white spots in the meat of the melon and have a bitter taste. A low nitrate fertizer such as 8-24-24 at a rate of 2 or 3 level tablespoons per hill of 3 plants is all they need.
6. Kleckley's Sweet is nowhere near the best tasting yellow meated melon though it is better than average.
7. There are several different factors that indicate whether or not a watermelon is ripe. Here are a few.
8. The best soil for watermelons is a sandy loam.
<none>clipped on: 02.18.2009 at 09:55 pm last updated on: 02.18.2009 at 09:55 pm
RE: Why can't I grow spinach? (Follow-Up #7)
I usually pre-sprout the spinach seeds in damp paper towel, inside a ziplock bag. Once the tiny sprout appears on the seed, I plant them in 4packs of Pro-mix.
I often put the ziplock in the fridge for a couple of days to start, take out the seeds that have sprouted and return the bag to the fridge and repeat. A little crazy but I sometimes use a jeweler's loup and very big tweezers for this job(my eyesight is not what it used to be) It seems like a lot of work but I get very spotty germination when direct seeding in the garden and we often get hot springs lately. This way I can get the spinach in very early. I do the same with bok choy and other early greens like escarole.
<none>clipped on: 01.21.2009 at 02:28 pm last updated on: 01.21.2009 at 02:28 pm
RE: An observation about cowpeas (Follow-Up #8)
Jimster, from someone up north, you surprized me with the chow chow and corn bread. Good eating. Peas corn bread fresh onion as a garnish on top and chow chow that is a meal. The only thing missing is a cold glass of buttermilk with crumbled up hot corn bread fresh out of the skillet tossed in.
Zeedman I will try to give a run down on types of southern peas as I understand them.
6week peas usually refers to any type of solid colored pea that matures in about six weeks. I know of no speckeled 6week peas because those would be whipporwills and I know of no calico 6 week peas because those would be calico peas.I have also have not come across any eyed 6week peas because I quess those would be called a ----eyed pea. I have a black seeded six week crowder and a tan seeded 6 week crowder also a black seeded kidney shaped 6 week pea. Again each region has there own type of 6 week peas and they are not all crowders but are solid in color and have no eyes.
There are also several calico peas which are bi-colored or two toned in various shades of red and white, or tan and white, or black and white that are standard kidney shaped or a crowder type pea. They can also have a distint eye but that is rare.I even have one that is red and white with speckels and a small crowder which would technically make it a whipporwill except for the fact that it is not a shade of brown. Other calicos I have are Hereford, pole cat, ham and gravy and a chicken and dumpling pea all of which are red and white. I have a holstien pea which is black and white and a few tan and white calicos.
<none>clipped on: 01.04.2009 at 03:43 pm last updated on: 01.04.2009 at 03:44 pm
RE: 2009 legume plans (Follow-Up #13)
Of the cowpeas I've grown, arguably, the best are White Whipporwill and Piggott's Family Heirloom. I can make excellent arguments that nobody should grow california blackeye, bland, powdery, tasteless, etc.
<none>clipped on: 12.17.2008 at 03:49 pm last updated on: 12.17.2008 at 03:50 pm
RE: When is it okay to harvest butternut squash? (Follow-Up #4)
To help keep them from early spoiling once picked, mix a few teaspooons of chlorine bleach in a gallon of water and allow them to soak a minute, then air dry. They will last longer and not get bad spots on the surfaces. Even though squash are hard skins, they do bruise easily, as do pumpkins.
<none>clipped on: 09.29.2008 at 12:52 am last updated on: 09.29.2008 at 12:52 am
RE: Uses of Habaneros? (Follow-Up #32)
Here's a great habanero recipe site:
Here is a link that might be useful: Habanero Recipes
<none>clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 12:48 pm last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 12:49 pm
RE: An observation about cowpeas (Follow-Up #19)
You'll get LOTS of recommendations. There are so many good ones. Here are two I'd recommend:
Penny Rile (cream pea)
Both can be obtained at Sandhill Preservation Center.
Here is a link that might be useful: Sandhill Preservation Center
<none>clipped on: 09.16.2008 at 12:29 pm last updated on: 09.16.2008 at 12:29 pm
RE: Reading Lady...Peach Preserves question (Follow-Up #12)
Here you go:
Peach Preserves for Cold Mornings (Doris, Ruddmd)
3 pounds ripe peaches, peeled and quartered
Combine peaches, sugar, and honey in a Dutch oven; stir well. Cover and let stand 45 minutes. Place knife blade attachment in food processor bowl; add orange quarters and habanero chiles. Process until finely chopped, stopping once to scrape down sides.
Place orange, habanero chiles, and an equal amount of water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes or until orange rind is tender.
Bring peach mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high, and cook, uncovered, 15 minutes, stirring often. Add orange mixture. Bring to a boil; cook, uncovered, 20 to 25 minutes or until candy thermometer registers 221, stirring often. Remove from heat; stir in almond extract. Skim off foam with a metal spoon.
Quickly pour hot mixture into hot, sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace; wipe jar rims. Cover at once with metal lids, and screw on bands. Process jars in boiling-water bath 10 minutes. Yield: 6 half-pints.
<none>clipped on: 09.07.2008 at 06:52 pm last updated on: 09.07.2008 at 06:52 pm
RE: What squash will you grow next year? (Follow-Up #7)
I plan on growing Sweet Dumpling, New England Pie Pumpkins, Butternut, and cheese pumpkins.
If you don't have much experience growing Buttercup squash, you may want to take note of the seeds. There are several cultivars of Buttercups, all of which belong to the species Cucurbita maxima. However, there are 3 common races of C. maxima, and Buttercup has been crossed so many times with them, so you can find cultivars of Buttercup which is closer to one race than the other. You can tell which from the seed. These 3 races (there are more than 3, but these 3 are the ones that are usually grown) each have specific seeds.
One has seed which is completely white. That race grows well in certain climates, but generally requires a long spring prior to the summer heat, else it runts out in midsummer, resulting in very poor yield.
One has seed which has a white base, but is covered somewhat by a brown swede like material. That race grows quite well where it can get full sun and the days aren't too hot. This race is what the original Buttercup was bred from.
One has seed which has a white base, but is covered in a hard brown material, the white only visible on the edges of the seed. This race grows well where it can get full sun. The longer the days, the better it grows. It is good for northern climates. Though it doesn't mind hot weather much, it does use a lot of water. It also requires better tilled loose soil the other 2 races, else it runts out. If the soil is clay, adding sand and gypsom helps.
<none>clipped on: 09.04.2008 at 12:20 pm last updated on: 09.04.2008 at 12:20 pm
Sun Dried Tomatoes
I raise tomatoes for sun drying. I do about 1000 to 2000 lbs a year which I sell to the upscale restaurants in Cody Wyoming & Billings Montana. I wanted to pass on my favorites for you considering doing some drying. Any tomato can be used for drying but some varieties are better than others.
I grow 15 mainstay varieties that I have kept as I culled others that did not meet my criteria.
Meaty with a low moisture content
These are my Top Five
I wanted to add that were I to be stranded on a desert Island with only one tomato it would be Russo Sicilian Togeta. This is my gallstarh that sets fruit first, ripens the earliest, bears heavy crops in any weather and is producing right up until hard frost. It is not a true paste but rather a stuffing tomato. None-the-less, the flavor of these dried is as good as it gets. It is also wonderful for just eating or slicing and the fruit is extra large.
For those wanting to know my Secret Recipe for drying, here you go:
Wash, stem and slice each tomato into 1/4" thick slices. Place in a very large bowl or clean bucket and cover with cheap red wine. I use Merlot but if you prefer something else, knock yourself out. I have a friend that swears by cheap Chianti! Soak tomato slices 24 hours in the wine. Drain well. Lay tomatoes just touching on dehydrator shelves or on screen in your sun-drying apparatus. Sprinkle each slice with a mixture containing equal parts of dried basil-oregano-parsley and then sprinkle each slice with Kosher Salt. You may choose to forego the salt if you wish but tomatoes will take longer to dry. Dry tomatoes until they are firm and leatherlike with no moisture pockets, but NOT brittle. (If you get them too dry, soak them in lemon juice for a few minutes.) To store, place in vacuum bags or ziplock bags and freeze.
IMPORTANT!!! If you will be storing sun-dried tomatoes in Olive oil you !!!MUST!!! dip each slice in vinegar before adding to oil.
To pack in oil:
****** WARNING ********
Do *NOT* add fresh garlic cloves or fresh herbs of any kind to oil-packed dried tomatoes, UNLESS you store them in the refrigerator and plan on using them within 7 days. Garlic is a low-acid food which, when placed in oil, creates a low-acid anaerobic environment just
<none>clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 04:35 pm last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 04:35 pm
RE: Homemade vinegar? (Follow-Up #2)
I've never tried it, but this is how you do it.
Combine wine and barley in a wide-mouthed jar or crock and leave in a warm place for several days. Test after 2-3 days, by which time it should be right, strain and bottle. Keep a small amount as the mother, feeding occasionally with dregs of wine, making sure to use the same kind of wine each time.
<none>clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 01:06 pm last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 01:06 pm
RE: Habanero Gold recipe question about pectin (Follow-Up #1)
Here are the two different recipes. The first one is the one I used.
Habanero Gold Jelly Recipe #132932
<none>clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 12:16 pm last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 12:16 pm
RE: Disappointing tomato season (Follow-Up #3)
I suspect the opposite. I suspect her problem is too much water and the roots are rotting. adding more salty water is not going to help. You might spray epsom salts on the leaves. but I will never add salt to the soil.
I suspect she needs the ground to dry out and the roots to grow again. hope for the best.
If you live in a wet area then you should probably graft your tomatoes onto eggplant rootstock. The professionals do that for wet areas. The roots of eggplant do much better in soil that is too wet or gets flooded out.
Here is a link that might be useful: toms on eggplant roots
<none>clipped on: 07.09.2008 at 02:29 pm last updated on: 07.09.2008 at 02:29 pm
RE: Your Greatest Hit Recipes for Leesa (Follow-Up #21)
For apple and pear season, here are a couple of my favorite chutney recipes. I double the pear one and have left out the brandy when I didn't have any. It was good anyway:
Pear and Currant Chutney
Put currants and brandy into a medium saucepan and simmer over medium heat until currants are plump and have absorbed most of the liquor, about 7 minutes. Add pears, celery, sugar, lemon juice, ginger and cayenne and stir well. Return to simmer, reduce head to medium low and simmer until pears are very soft and translucent and juices are thick and syrupy, about 1 hour.
Put chutney into a clean jar with a tight lid or hot water bath 10 minutes. If not processed, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Allow chutney to sit for a couple of weeks, the flavor improves with age.
Pear Apple'n Cranberry Chutney
Prep Time: 45 minutes
8 C chopped apples (I use Northern Spy's)
Combine all in a large kettle and bring slowly to a boil, stirring often to keep from sticking. Boil till thick. Pour into hot jars, adjust lids and process in BWB 10 min.
Yield: 12 to 14 half pints (maybe?)
<none>clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 09:12 pm last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 09:12 pm
RE: Your Greatest Hit Recipes for Leesa (Follow-Up #7)
OK, here are my favorites. The salsa is my own recipe, the soup is Katie C's and the Habanero Gold is wonderful, but I don't know where in the world I got the recipe.
8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
Makes 6 pints
Roasted Tomato Garlic Soup
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil -- (or 1 Tbsp. dried)
Habanero Gold Jelly
1/3 cup finely sliced dried apricots
Cut apricots into 1/8 inch slices. Measure into a large deep stainless steel saucepan with vinegar; let stand 4 hours. Individually, cut onion and seeded peppers into 1/8 inch slices; cut slices into 1/4 inch dice. Measure each ingredient; add to apricots. Stir in sugar.
Process 10 minutes in BWB. Cool upright, until lids pop down, about 30 minutes. When lids are concave but the jelly is still hot, carefully grasp jar without disturbing lid and invert, twist, or rotate each jar to distribute solids throughout jelly. The jar can be inverted temporarily but do not allow it to stand upside-down for prolonged periods.
Repeat as necessary during the cooling/setting time, until solids remain suspended in the jelly.
<none>clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 09:04 pm last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 09:04 pm
RE: Your Greatest Hit Recipes for Leesa (Follow-Up #4)
This is my husband's favorite. We've made it when we cut all the green tomatoes off the vines before a hurricane (the vines lived to produce many more) and then at the end of the season when it was going to freeze.
Pickled Sweet Green Tomatoes
Procedure: Wash and slice tomatoes and onions. Place in bowl, sprinkle with 1/4 cup salt, and let stand 4 to 6 hours. Drain. Heat and stir sugar in vinegar until dissolved. Tie mustard seed, allspice, celery seed, and cloves in a spice bag. Add to vinegar with tomatoes and onions. If needed, add minimum water to cover pieces. Bring to boil and simmer 30 minutes, stirring as needed to prevent burning. Tomatoes should be tender and transparent when properly cooked. Remove spice bag. Fill jar and cover with hot pickling solution, leaving 1/2-inch headspace.
Adjust lids and process according to the recommendations in Table 1.
Table 1. Recommended process time for Pickled Sweet Green Tomatoes in a boiling-water canner.
This document was extracted from the "Complete Guide to Home Canning," Agriculture Information Bulletin No. 539, USDA. Revised 1994.
As much as I hate to post it, being a Gator and all, the Univ. of Georgia has a great website.
Here is a link that might be useful: National Center for Home Food Preservation
<none>clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 09:03 pm last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 09:03 pm
RE: Dill pickle recipe (Follow-Up #5)
Some of the refrigerator pickle recipes can allow listeria to grow, so you need to be careful with instructions and recipes.
Claussen are a fermented type pickle.
Fermented Dill Pickles Refrigerated "Clausen" Type
1 Gallon Jar
In 1 gallon jar add pickling cucumbers Rinse but do not wash the cucumbers. Add Dill flower heads or dried dill weed and seed, garlic, peppercorns, and vinegar. Dissolve salt in water and add to jar. Fill jar the remaining way with water. Add weight to keep cucumbers under brine.
Pickles ready to eat after 10-11 days.
To process the pickles
<none>clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 08:57 pm last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 08:57 pm
RE: help me schedule for fall crop (Follow-Up #1)
give the Grow Guide a try. Just pick 'Fall Garden' and the dates and it will tell you what to start when.
Here is a link that might be useful: Grow Guide
<none>clipped on: 07.01.2008 at 12:46 pm last updated on: 07.01.2008 at 12:46 pm
RE: Non-crossing Bean Species (Follow-Up #2)
-Winged bean (same climate as hyacinth)
-Black gram (will not cross with green gram)
-Peas (as in "English" peas)
So while all of the legumes listed so far may not be appropriate for every location & climate, any gardener could easily grow one each of several, and save pure seed.
As to inter-species crosses... Several years ago, I requested a runner bean from Seed Savers Exchange. The seeds, upon examination, had some purple coloration, and appeared to be small runner beans.
When I planted them, however, the cotyledons emerged from the soil - and runner beans are, by accepted definition, hypogeal. It appeared to be a cross between P. coccineus (runner bean) and P. vulgaris (common bean). Since I wasn't sure how to isolate it from my other beans (too late to change plans), I chose not to grow it & destroyed the seedlings. I still have seed remaining, which I intend to plant this year... I'm very curious what the blossoms will look like.
Curious, I scanned through the USDA's database of runner beans, looking for something similar. I found one that appeared to be nearly identical to mine - and was epigeal. And much to my surprise, I also found other epigeal runner beans, all of which appear to be possible inter-species crosses within the Phaseolus genus. I intend to write the curator, to request her opinion on this... I hope they respond.
I remember having a similar discussion some time back, and a GW member came forth, claiming that they had a cross occur in their garden between runners & common beans. I believe it was a European member. While inter-species crosses do occur, they are statistically very rare; very few of those are viable, and even fewer are able to produce seed. When it does happen, such a cross represents an opportunity to breed a new variety.
<none>clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 05:12 pm last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 05:12 pm
Non-crossing Bean Species
For many of us who save seed and don't grow too many different beans each year, one strategy for keeping the strains pure is to grow only one of each species. That way, they don't get crossed up. For example, grow only one common bean, one lima, etc.
This is a follow-up on the thread about hyacinth beans. I have a general idea of the types of beans which would work under this strategy but want to check it with the more hard core beanophiles. Here is my list of what I think could be grown together with no crossing:
common bush or common pole, (but not both)
Any corrections? Additions? Refinements?
<none>clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 05:12 pm last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 05:12 pm
RE: What to do with Bok Choy (Follow-Up #2)
I love bok choy and have all kinds of recipes. About the only thing I don't use it in is dessert! Here are some, mainly Asian, but not all.
Braised Baby Bok Choy
2 cups chicken broth
Stir-fried baby bok choy
Total time: 10 minutes
Note: From Vicki Fan. Baby bok choy is available at many local farmers markets and Asian markets. Use the smallest baby bok choy you can find, about 2 1/2 inches long if possible. If larger, cut them in half lengthwise. Keep a saucepan of simmering water or chicken or vegetable stock on the stove, to add to the bok choy while cooking.
1. Heat a wok over medium-high heat, add the canola oil and swirl the wok around to coat the pan. Heat until you see a wisp of smoke. Add the garlic and ginger and quickly stir fry for just a few seconds, stirring with chopsticks.
2. Add the bok choy and stir to coat. Add 2 tablespoons hot water and cover. Let the bok choy steam about 2 to 3 minutes, stirring a few times and checking to make sure the vegetables don't burn. Add a little more water if necessary and a pinch of salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Bok Choy with Sauteed Mushrooms and Shallots
If you've never tried bok choy, this recipe is a good place to start.
In a large skillet or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, shallots and garlic and stir-fry until mushrooms darken, about 5 minutes.
Roasted Roots With Winter Greens
2 pounds potatoes, cut into large pieces
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Combine the potatoes, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas and turnips in 1 or 2 large roasting pans; toss them with olive oil to coat lightly. In a separate pan, toss the beets with a little olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste and your choice of herbs to all the vegetables. Roast for about 1 hour or until the roots are tender.
When the roots are almost done, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until it is soft. Add the greens and 1/4 cup water; cook, stirring frequently, until the greens are just tender and still bright green, 3 to 5 minutes.
To serve, place a large scoop of roasted roots on an individual plate; top with a large helping of greens and 3 to 4 tablespoons crumbled feta. -- Adapted from "Recipes From America's Small Farms: Fresh Ideas for the Season's Bounty" by Joanne Lamb Hayes and Lori Stein
Grilled Pork and Mango Salad with Warm Asian Greens
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
In a food processor, combine the mint, cilantro, basil, garlic, pepper, sugar, lime juice, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, fish sauce, and 2 tablespoons corn or safflower oil and pulse until well combined. The marinade can be made up to 1 day ahead of time.
Put the pork in a shallow nonreactive pan. Pour the marinade over the pork. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours, turning occasionally.
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. When it's medium-hot (coals are covered with a light coating of ash and glow deep red), grill the pork, 4 to 5 minutes per side, for medium-rare, or until desired doneness. At the same time, grill the mango slices until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Let the pork and mango cool for a few minutes. Cut the pork into ¼ -inch slices and dice the mango; set aside.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons corn or safflower oil in a large skillet or saute pan. Add the bok choy and stir-fry over medium-high heat until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add the spinach to the pan and stir-fry until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the greens to a large platter or individual plates. Top the greens with the pork slices and diced mango.
In a small bowl, whisk together the 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, sesame oil, and hot sauce. Drizzle over the pork and mango. Garnish with scallions and serve at once.
Vietnamese-Style Beef and Noodle Broth
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or large soup pot over high heat. Add beef and cook, stirring often, until just cooked, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate using tongs, leaving the juices in the pot.
Add bok choy to the pot and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add ginger and broths; cover and bring to a boil. Add noodles and soy sauce; simmer until the noodles are soft, about 4 minutes. Return the beef to the pot and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes more.
Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle with bean sprouts, basil, green onions and cilantro. Top with lime wedges.
MAPLE-SOY GLAZED SALMON with GINGERED BOK CHOY
½ C maple syrup
Adjust one oven rack to the lowest position and a second rack to the upper middle position. Heat oven to 500°
Meanwhile, combine the grated ginger and 1 tabsp oil in a large bowl. Add the bok choy, ¼ tsp salt, and pepper to taste. Toss to coat. Spread the bok choy on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Grease a second rimmed baking sheet with the remaining 1 tsp oil and position the salmon fillets, skin side down, on the sheet, with at least 1 inch between them. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.
Place the bok choy on the lower oven rack and the salmon on the upper oven rack. Cook for 5 min, then pull the salmon from the oven and spread a thick layer of the maple glaze over each fillet, top and sides. Use a pastry brush. Return to the oven. Continue to cook until the bok choy leaves are wilted, stems tender and the salmon is firm to the touch, about 3 min. longer.
Transfer bok choy to a platter and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Brush the fillets with another layer of glaze and transfer to individual plates. Serve immediately, with any remaining glaze.
I have more if there's something in particular you'd like to try. The idea of a search is also a very good one, especially sites like epicurious, which provide cooks' ratings for many recipes.
Here is a link that might be useful: Epicurious Bok Choy Recipes
<none>clipped on: 05.14.2008 at 07:48 pm last updated on: 05.14.2008 at 07:48 pm
RE: another question (Follow-Up #8)
The only other question is will the image stay on GW if it is deleted off photobucket?. And I have to add another picture. This shows Chicken and Dumpling crowder with the Black Crowder
<none>clipped on: 05.01.2008 at 09:36 pm last updated on: 05.01.2008 at 09:36 pm
RE: My Red Bed - Second Year ( *9 photos*) (Follow-Up #52)
I put this info on another post, but thought it would be useful to include here for any future readers.
Color is so subjective. When does red cross into orangish red? When does red slide into purplish red? Whats the difference between burgundy, maroon, scarlet, crimson, ruby, claret, vermilion? (not to mention smoky red, cherry red, tomato red, etc. those terms at least are a little easier to envision.) And just exactly which shade is the "true red" anyways?
Im sorry but I wont be answering these questions. I just bring it up to help describe my "red bed". My goal was to have it be "true red", more or less, and also have lots of dark or reddish foliage. I have since come to the conclusion that there are lots of orangey-reds and lots of purply reds, but few "true" reds. In order to have more than five specimens, I have relaxed my standards and include many flowers that are "pretty close" to true red. If they stray too far from that section of the spectrum, they have been usually been removed. Not because Im trying to be a purist, but I find that orange red next to pink red really clashes. I have a couple photos of these that show what I mean. But, you could decide to focus instead on burgundy reds altogether, or the orange reds.
Here are my observations on plants and colors in this zone 5 red bed. Your garden may differ.
Amaranthus not sure what kind I have, I got it in a trade. It is the backbone plant of the garden. Looks like amaranthus cruentus Hopi Red Dye.
Dahlia "Arabian Night" deep smoky red, reliable
Canna Red King Humbert ( dig tubers annually)
Next years list of plants to find and try are:
Phew!! Thats it for now, rather exhaustive list, dont you think? Sorry it took so long. Let me know what Im missing! Prefer perennials to annuals at this point. If you want seeds of anything email me late next summer and I will start saving.
Here is the location of my new redbed album on picasa.
Also, next year before the seed swaps let me know! I'll be happy to fill up a big package with lots of red seeds. 3 years on gardenweb and I never knew about the seed exchange!
Here is a link that might be useful: Red Bed Album
<none>clipped on: 04.28.2008 at 11:52 pm last updated on: 04.28.2008 at 11:52 pm
RE: What are Southern Butter Beans? (Follow-Up #2)
The "butter beans" you are talking about are more a matter of how they are cooked than a particular variety of bean. I like butterpeas but rarely grow them because there are so many more varieties I like better. Baby Lima's (as in store bought dry beans) are also good but the flavor is not up to par compared to homegrown and properly harvested beans. My preference is a medium sized pole type bean that develops good flavor and has been harvested at the green shell stage. Here are some of the better examples of each:
Dixie Speckled Butterpea - A very fat deep reddish brown speckled bean that grows on bush plants. About 100 feet of row planted 3 seed per foot will produce 2 to 3 gallons of beans.
Henderson Lima and Fordhook lima - medium size flattened limas that grow on bush plants. These are pretty much industry standard varieties. They are noted for good flavor and canning/freezing properties.
Carolina Red - One of the most interesting and tasty beans I've grown. Its medium sized with a bright red color at maturity. Heat tolerance is outstanding and production is very heavy. This is a pole lima that makes an exceptionally good bean when harvested at the green shelly stage. Sandhill Preservation has a limited stock of seed this year.
Cooking limas is a special art. Here is one of my recipes.
Cook a large pot of lima beans in a pot using 3 times as much water as the volume of beans. I like to boil them about 20 minutes, then pour the water off and put fresh water in to finish cooking. You can add a sliced onion if you choose. Once the beans are done, add parsley, a pinch of garlic powder, salt, a tiny amount of HOT pepper powder, and if you choose, a small pat of butter. I put the spices in to my personal taste, its not measured.
<none>clipped on: 04.14.2008 at 10:06 pm last updated on: 04.14.2008 at 10:06 pm
RE: What are Southern Butter Beans? (Follow-Up #1)
What you've done, Nancy, is walk smack into a controversy; leading with your chin.
There is a perennial argument as to whether or not limas and butterbeans are the same thing. Basically they are.
Both limas and butterbeans are common names for Phaseolus lunatus, a large seeded annual plant. What you are probably being served, in North Carolina, are Sievas--which is source of another argument. Because they are smaller (like so-called baby limas) some people class them as a subspecies. But Sievas are native to the Carolinas, and are what most Tar-heelers think of when you say "butterbean." They're smaller, and speckled tan when raw.
There are an unknown number of butterbean/lima varieties, but they number at least in the several dozens, with variations in size, color, number of beans to the pod, etc. They're available in both bush and pole types.
The controversy stems from a related bean, sometimes called the "potato lima," which is a perenial, with large seeds. This, however, is a different species, Phaseolus limensis.
The argument has been fairly well settled among botanists. It's chefs, home-cooks, and other culinary enthusiasts who can't make up their minds.
When you hear the word "pea" or "crowder" you're talking about something else. These refer to cowpeas---of which there are something like 240 varieties. Crowders are called so because they are crowded into the pod. As a result, the individual peas are misshapen, most often squared off like little dice (with common beans we call this same phenomonon "cutshort"). Cowpeas are Vigna unguiculata.
All of which is probably a little more than you wanted to know. :>)
<none>clipped on: 04.14.2008 at 10:05 pm last updated on: 04.14.2008 at 10:05 pm
RE: Winter Squash Spacing and Growing Tips (Follow-Up #1)
1/sqft, preferably on a trellis wider than the bed and plenty tall. Pinch the main runner when it gets tot he top of hte trellis to encourage side shoots. In July, you can replant staggered between the initial vines and get a second crop growing, just cut off the first vines at the base as (if) they die back / fade out and the new vines look ready to start producing themselves.
<none>clipped on: 01.31.2008 at 07:42 pm last updated on: 01.31.2008 at 07:42 pm
RE: which bell peppers did the best for you (Follow-Up #7)
Big climate difference between us. I have tried "California Wonder" a few times. Thin walls, not much production, of course thats up here in NH. It seems to be the only pepper plant the greenhouses carry. Wonder why? It is one of the reasons I started growing my own seedlings. I have grown "King of the North" for a few year. Great pepper, thick walls good size, not huge but market size. Last year I tried "Big Bertha". It impressed me alot. Last year was not a good year for peppers up here in the northeast (cool & wet), and BB still gave me some nice big peppers 7"+ by 4"+, with nice thick walls. It has earned a permament spot in my garden.
As far as keeping peppers from getting brown spots and raising productivity, I do what an old timer taught me:
1: Don't over fertilize, once before setting out, never side dress.
<none>clipped on: 01.28.2008 at 12:38 pm last updated on: 01.28.2008 at 12:38 pm
RE: Need ideas to germinate old old beans (Follow-Up #13)
I agree with Fusion regarding the covering of the seed container. At warm temperatures, the dead seeds will rot very quickly; and with the high humidity of an enclosed environment, fungus could quickly engulf any good seeds (I say this from experience).
Carol, my germinator is home-made. I converted a "Germinette" collapsible greenhouse, which I covered outside with space blankets & moving blankets for heat retention. The unit came with 6 full-length shelves, under which I mounted shoplight flourescents on chains. These are turned on & off by a timer.
The temperature is regulated by a small electric heater, hooked up to an adjustable thermostat (the type used for electric baseboard heaters). This type of thermostat will not handle the inductance of large motors, so the heater plugged into it must have no fan, or a very small one (I used a Patton, which has a very weak blower). Some basic electrical knowledge is required to wire the connections.
(A sealed greenhouse thermostat is more reliable under high humidity, but much more costly (and harder to find) than the baseboard thermostat.)
To regulate the temperature effectively, the unit must be placed in a moderately cool location (basement or garage), the heat from the lights will cause over-heating indoors. You might be able to use it indoors with the use of controlled venting (to conserve energy), but I have not tried it.
This setup will control the temperature within a 3-4 degree range of the setting. I set mine to 75 degrees to germinate most vegetables, it would get closer to 80 with all lights running, then drop down at night to just below 75. Once germination is completed, I either lower the temperature to 70 (for tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant) or move the seedlings to a solar greenhouse.
For the small lots of seed that I receive through swaps, sometimes every seed counts. The germinator has given me a very high germination rate for beans, often 100%. The final rate for the beans I mentioned previously was 84% (after 0% last year).
My plots are fully planted, so I would also be unable to grow your beans this year. Besides, at this point it may be too late in the season to guarantee a successful seed crop here (or in your location?), so it could be a waste of seed to try. If you still have seed remaining next year, I could try to germinate some of them for you then... just contact me through my member page.
<none>clipped on: 01.26.2008 at 01:58 am last updated on: 01.26.2008 at 01:59 am
RE: Need ideas to germinate old old beans (Follow-Up #12)
The seed tray should be half full of water when you put the seed in. That should be enough to prevent evaporation for at least 2 or maybe 3 days. I would not cover the top because the seed seem to prefer exposure to the air. If you are very worried about the surface drying, I would start the tray indoors for the first 3 days. They put it out in the sun. The seed will not do anything until they have absorbed enough water. Then they will grow if they are viable.
<none>clipped on: 01.26.2008 at 01:58 am last updated on: 01.26.2008 at 01:58 am
RE: Need ideas to germinate old old beans (Follow-Up #9)
>"How effective is this? I planted some 8 year old seed this year and got 1% germination in soil. I put some of the same seed in a seed tray and got 60% viable plants. That is a dramatic difference."< - Fusion Power
I was able to duplicate those results this month, with a rare yardlong bean ("Long White Snake") that last year had 0% germination out of 50 seeds. Fortunately, I still had a good quantity of seed remaining. This year, I planted them in a sterile soil-less mix in Jiffy strips as I did last year, but with two changes:
The difference is remarkable. Thus far, over 30 of 50 have germinated - and more are still emerging. This from seed that was shriveled, cracked, and appeared to have been harvested immature. The source has since dropped this variety, so I now have real hope of salvaging it. Should it prove too difficult for my climate, I still have enough seed to send to a serious collector further South.
As to old bean seed... I planted a runner bean this year that I last grew in 1998. It was planted directly in the garden in late May. The germination rate was nearly 80%! The seed had been stored in a zip-lock bag in a filing cabinet... so much for the myth of zip-locks killing seed.
Carol, could you update us on the results of your efforts so far?
<none>clipped on: 01.26.2008 at 01:58 am last updated on: 01.26.2008 at 01:58 am
RE: Need ideas to germinate old old beans (Follow-Up #5)
Here is a simple method that is highly successful at germinating old bean seed. It will work if the seed are alive but obviously if they are dead, nothing will help.
Mix 1 teaspoon of miracle grow with 1 gallon of water. Any highly soluble fertilizer with high nitrate will work. Seaweed emulsion in the 5% nitrate range could be used. Use 2 tablespoons of seaweed emulsion because it is less concentrated than miracle grow.
Start seed in a high quality seed mix. It is very important to have air circulation around and through the seed mix. It must be light and highly absorbent. I prefer seed trays because the water can be put in the bottom and will saturate the mix but will not puddle around the seed. Moisten enough mix with the water to fill and lightly pack the tray.
Pour the rest of the gallon of water into the bottom of the tray and let it set for at least an hour. The seed mix should be totally saturated. Pour off enough of the water so the seed tray is only half full.
Now plant the seed. Gently push seed into the mix until just level with the soil. The seed should NOT be covered up. Put the tray in a very warm area, 80 to 85 degrees is just about perfect. They should also be exposed to very bright light. Full sunlight is best but a high quality seed start light will work.
If the seed can grow, it will break the seedcoat within a few days. Because the seed is at the surface, the cotyledons will be exposed to light from the beginning. The seed will send a root down into the mix and start to absorb nutrients. This is the point where you have to watch carefully for weak attachment to the soil. If a seed starts to grow but leans over, put some more seed mix around it to prop it into position until the roots are strong enough to support the plant.
Keep the plants in the tray until the first true leaves have formed, then transplant into prepared soil.
How effective is this? I planted some 8 year old seed this year and got 1% germination in soil. I put some of the same seed in a seed tray and got 60% viable plants. That is a dramatic difference.
<none>clipped on: 01.26.2008 at 01:57 am last updated on: 01.26.2008 at 01:57 am
RE: Pure seed by isolating from pollinators? (Follow-Up #1)
I tried using isolation cages for bush beans, the same ones I use to get pure seed from peppers. Unfortunately, the conditions under which peppers thrive (heat & humidity) promote disease in beans... so I was forced to discontinue the experiment, to save the plants. I used floating row cover; a screen cage might allow greater air flow, and avoid the disease problems.
For common beans, since they self-pollinate, all that is needed to produce pure seed is a little distance. The distance necessary is a topic of considerable disagreement; search GW for "bean cross", and you will find many discussions of the issue. In general, if you grow two beans on opposite sides of your yard, the seed should be reasonably pure - for your own use. Grow one in pots in your front yard as well! But if you are preserving an irreplaceable heirloom, I would use a greater distance, or grow only that bean for one season.
My yard is just over an acre, and I grow three beans for seed each year at home, 100+ feet apart. In my main plot (on a friend's property) I grow several others in a 100-foot square; but I trellis other plants between them, and plant flowers throughout to act as "cleaning stations" for pollinators. So far, no crosses.
But I can tell you that I grow many beans obtained through swaps, and I have yet to go a year without seeing crosses... so they do occur. Sometimes they are so bad that even after roguing out the plants with obvious differences (which is a good practice) the remaining seed is still impure, and cant be saved.
I nearly lost a rare variety that was sent to me this year; only _one plant_ was true-to-type. It may take me several years to clean it up to the point where I can re-offer it to others.
Limas & runner beans are more difficult than common beans. Bees are strongly attracted to the blossoms, so if you grow more than one, they _will_ cross... and that also includes any of your neighbors within at least 1/4 mile. I have never tried caging them; but it is my observation that while they are both supposedly self-fertile, they seldom self-pollinate without assistance from insects. You might be able to grow them under a cage, if you "trip" the flowers to simulate an insect visit.
<none>clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 04:00 pm last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 04:00 pm
RE: To Tweak or Not to Tweak (Follow-Up #4)
Sounds like you have been busy with the alternative harvest. I only have 2 under 11 but I understand what you are saying about safety. Not only can you not risk their health, but you can't take risks with your own. This is a recipe from a book that is generally considered safe, Small Batch Preserving. After the Blue Book (as a reference) it is usually everyone's favorite. I have also been happy that I purchased the new book, Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving. It seems to combine their Bernardin Canadian version with the Ball American version.
Seasoned Tomato Sauce
1. Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic, oregano, sugar, pepper and bay leaves in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat and boil gently, uncovered until very thick, about 1 1/2 hours; stir frequently. Press through a food mill or coarse sieve to remove seeds and skins. Add lemon juice and salt.
Here are another two from the same book. Booberry posted it in another thread.
* Exported from MasterCook *
Linda Lou posted this one in another thread:
10 pounds washed, peeled, cored and chopped tomatoes
Add all ingredients to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Press mixture through a food mill and discard seeds. Return to sauce pan and cook over medium-high heat until thick, stirring frequently. Add lemon juice or citric acid to hot canning jars and pack with hot prepared tomato mixture leaving ½-inch head space. Remove air bubbles. Wipe rim and screw threads and adjust lids and screw bands.
Boiling Water Bath Canner
Dial Gauge Type @ 11 pounds pressure or Weighted Gauge Type @ 10 pounds pressure.
You can leave out the onion. Do not increase the garlic amount as it is a low acid food and will change the ph level. Some herbs become bitter when canned. This sauce recipe should give you a good basic sauce to can.
Hopefully this will help!!
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:27 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:27 pm
Question - Tomato Sauce
I'm trying to get my recipes organized for canning on Sunday!
I'm down to two basic tomato sauce recipes from which I'm deciding (below). They are extremely similar! So, I was thinking that I really could probably combine them. 1. I like the idea of roasting the tomatoes before I use them, so couldn't I just roast the tomatoes for the Italian Seasoned Sauce?
2. I would also like to use fresh herbs from my herb garden. Can I use the typical 1 teaspoon dry = 3 teaspoons fresh substitution for herbs in canning? Do they have an effect on the acidity?
3. Speaking of herbs, can I use some thyme in the Italian Seasoned Tomato Sauce eventhough it doesn't call for that, or should I just add it in when I use it?
4. Going by another tomato sauce recipe that I've seen, I'm assuming 20 (good size) Roma tomatoes are about 5-6 lbs. Do you think that's a good assumption?
Thanks so much for all your help! I'm going for it on Sunday - Next week...Bellini Jelly, Annie's Salsa, and I'm starting the Tomato Sauce. ~ Paige
Wash tomatoes; drain. Peel, core and cut into small pieces; set aside. Sauté onions and garlic in olive oil in a large saucepot. Add tomatoes and seasonings. Simmer about 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Press mixture through a sieve or food mill; discard seeds. Cook pulp in a large, uncovered saucepot over medium-high heat until sauce thickens, stirring to prevent sticking. Add 1 tablespoon bottled lemon juice or 1/4 teaspoon citric acid to each pint jar.
Roasted Tomato Sauce
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:21 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:21 pm
RE: Tomato Sauce Question (Follow-Up #7)
The Ball Italian-Style Tomato Sauce calls for only 2/3 cup finely chopped onion and 1/2 cup finely chopped carrots plus 2/3 cup celery (the 1/2 cup parsley in your recipe is similarly low-acid) per 8 cups of fresh tomato puree. 4 T. lemon juice for that amount.
I would be careful not to exceed those amounts of low-acid vegetables. The problem with old recipes like that, as Ken mentioned, is they aren't very precise in their measurements compared to volume or weight measures.
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:19 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:19 pm
RE: Is this pizza sauce recipe for canning safe? (Follow-Up #11)
OK, I THINK I understand the issue.
I'll let you figure out the math; it's been a long day here. Too many paint fumes, I think, LOL.
1 pound of tomatoes = 2 cups CHOPPED or 1 1/2 cups CRUSHED or PUREED.
I posted the "tomato equation" on two different threads for two different forms of prepped tomatoes. Crushed or pureed tomatoes will have less volume than chopped ones.
I hope this makes sense. By the way, I should have cited my source on the equivalents: the new "Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving."
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:14 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:14 pm
RE: Is this pizza sauce recipe for canning safe? (Follow-Up #5)
Here is a safe recipe from The Complete Book of Small-Batch Preserving. I make several batches of this and use if for pizzas all year.
Seasoned Tomato Sauce
12 cups chopped ripe tomatoes (about 6 lb.)
1. Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic, oregano, sugar, pepper and bay leaves in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat and boil gently, uncovered, until very thick, about 1 1/4 hours; stir frequently. Press through a food mill or coarse sieve to remove seeds and skins. Add lemon juice and salt.
2. Remove hot jars from canner and ladle sauce into jars to within 1/2 inch of rim. Process 35 minutes for half-pint or pint jars.
Makes about 4 cups.
After some discussion on this forum, I would make the following change to this recipe. The amount of lemon juice and salt is correct for the expected 4 cups. But because you may or may not boil it down to the same volume, I would suggest adding the lemon juice and salt to each jar rather than to the mixture. In other words, add 1/2 tbsp lemon juice and 1/8 tsp salt to each half-pint.
Someone please jump in if I am wrong on the lemon juice and salt.
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:13 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:13 pm
RE: what variety do you like best for tomato sauce? (Follow-Up #7)
All of my tomatoes have been OP, so I can't vouch for the hybrids.
I'll second the motion for oxhearts, they have found a permanent place in my garden. Some of the best eaten fresh too, and very few seeds. "Hungarian Heart" and "Sojourner South American" are both very good, and high-yielding.
Very similar would be the "banana" types. They are elongated paste tomatoes with pointed ends, larger & later than most pastes, and with fewer seeds. "Federle" and "Gilbert Italian" are two of the best. Really good for salsa too, since they tend to ripen along with the peppers in late summer / early autumn.
"San Marzano" can be good, but there are many strains out there using the same name, some of which are inferior - it's a crap shoot. Your best bet is one of the named strains, such as "Super Marzano" or "San Marzano Redorta".
There are _hundreds_ of other "paste" tomatoes out there, with great variations in quality. Checking with your local Extension agent, or Master Gardeners, might give you a list of the best cultivars for your area. Or, you can just try 1 or 2 new ones each year.
Many of the smaller, otherwise unremarkable tomatoes can make great sauce; it depends on your taste, and what the sauce will be used for. One I grew last year, "Landis", made a surprisingly good sauce. And the acid/sour tomatoes can actually be preferable when you want a strong flavor, or as a blend with sweeter tomatoes.
I agree with those who shy away from the yellows; I haven't had much luck with them either. They usually are either too sweet, or tasteless. I did find one heirloom, "Yellow Pasta", that makes a wonderful, deep-yellow sauce with a sweet but rich flavor. I hope to make a good yellow ketchup from it next year.
No one has yet mentioned the purple or "black" tomatoes; they are strong, often with fruity, unusual flavors. I haven't tried canning them as sauce yet, but they cooked down to a rich, dark broth in several dishes prepared by the spouse.
<none>clipped on: 12.20.2007 at 10:07 pm last updated on: 12.20.2007 at 10:07 pm
RE: Coin Envelope question (Follow-Up #7)
You can make seed envelopes yourself too. I've made a whole bunch like these:
Told ya, I am cheap. :-)
<none>clipped on: 01.31.2007 at 05:27 pm last updated on: 01.31.2007 at 05:28 pm
RE: Coin Envelope question (Follow-Up #13)
Thanks, Dee. :-)
Here goes, Vera:
Making seed envelopes:
I made a lot of these envelopes on the train to and from work. I can make a lot of these envelopes in one day. It's quite relaxing for me.
Give it a try. :-)
<none>clipped on: 01.31.2007 at 05:27 pm last updated on: 01.31.2007 at 05:28 pm
So, what's working, and what isn't?
This spring, I expanded my garden, and planted a lot of new flowers in the hopes of attracting more hummingbirds. It's working, somewhat, but they still are addicted to the feeders. I'm starting to see what I think are young birds, and they are fun to watch as they explore everything. They seem more inclined to use natural flowers than the adults, who seem to fall into behavioral patterns of hitting a particular feeder, ignoring the flowers, then zipping off to parts unknown. Certain adults often seem to follow the same flight paths.
Anyway, I thought I'd list the flowers that have definitely been visited, and also list the ones that I thought would work, but don't seem to be getting any action. I have other flowers that I won't mention, because I don't think they are known to be attractive to hummingbirds.
THESE ARE GETTING(OR GOT)VISITED:
I must say, the Bee Balm is probably their favorite, with trumpet vine second. I haven't gotten a clear look at the Fuchsia, but I'm pretty sure they're using it. These three flowers are getting visited, even when the feeders are up. As far as I know, the others were visited only when the feeders were inside for cleaning. Of course, I can't be sure I'm not missing visits, but I'm a pretty patient observer, and this is what I've observed.
THESE DO NOT SEEM TO BE GETTING VISITED:
I must say, I really thought I'd see them at the Impatiens and also the Agastache, but if they're visiting, I've been missing it. The Cypress Vine so far has had only a few blooms at a time, so maybe it's just not a sufficient draw. In the past, I saw hummingbirds exploring my "Casa Blanca" lilies, but so far haven't seen any action at my pale yellow ones.
TOO SOON TO SAY, HAVEN'T BLOOMED YET:
I have high hopes for these, but will just have to wait and see. All are showing signs that they will soon be blooming.
Can anyone else share their experiences?
<none>clipped on: 08.01.2006 at 05:00 pm last updated on: 08.01.2006 at 05:00 pm