Clippings by beckysharp

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RE: The truth about Range Hoods (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: williamsem on 11.23.2013 at 07:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

We use our hood all the time. We have a Kobe, which tend to be very quiet. We purchased a max 620 CFM hood, which is more than adequate for our needs, but the benefit is we generally use it on low (quiet mode) or medium, which is also pretty quiet. I spent a lot of time comparing CFM, sound ratings, and cost when shopping.

I will say though, when something burns or gets very smokey, the high setting clears it out very quick!

We rarely used our previous OTR MW vent because it sounded like a jet engine. I do not miss the dusty grease layer that would build up on every surface I couldn't reach well. I also notice less haze and less lingering odor.

It's definitely one of the things I truly appreciate in the remodel. I can't imagine going back. You certainly don't need a large powerful model. I'd just find one that is a reasonable max CFM setting and also allows enough on low for everyday use so it isn't working hard. I'd only spend enough in your situation to buy quiet low settings, the really cheap hoods I saw were comparably loud, especially since we would have had to run them on high to even get close to 2-300 CFM.

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clipped on: 11.25.2013 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 11.25.2013 at 09:59 am

RE: The well designed house (plan) (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: luckygal on 07.07.2012 at 04:44 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm glad to see so many know about Christopher Alexander. When I discovered this book in the early-90's it was out of print and my local bookstore had to do an extensive search to find me a new copy. At the time we were planning our new build and I incorporated a number of "patterns" which have worked out very well and certainly contribute to the positive 'feel' of my house. It's a book I highly recommend to anyone planning a new house or renovation.

The "golden ratio" is not so complicated, it's about proportion and amazingly is seen in many natural forms, and has been used in art and architecture for millennia. Apparently the most pleasing ratio is 1:1.618. An example is a room that is 14' wide by almost 23' long (14'x1.618=22.65'). Most people find this ratio to be visually pleasing.

I abhor the lack of balance in some modern architecture and improperly sized windows are just one example. I've often wondered what the architect was thinking.

Pal, I agree with you about the original concept of open plan which began long before the name was coined. I know there are also financial reasons for open-plan and it doesn't work for everyone but it does suit those with a casual lifestyle. There are good and not so good open-plans of course. I do like mine altho as my art collection grows the lack of wall space is a problem. Next house won't be open-plan because of that.

Glad you are enjoying the book stinky-gardener! I've read and reread it many times over the years and never tire of studying it.

Some of the patterns I chose to use in our house are:
~ 159 - Light on two sides of (every) room - it makes a real difference to the natural light and gives the rooms a more pleasant feel.
~ 134 - the Zen view - We chose to have no huge "picture" windows (altho do have many windows) and only removed enough trees to have glimpses of the wonderful view framed by trees. I never tire of seeing the views through the various windows. Most people would have huge windows and remove all trees blocking the view. According to this pattern the view then becomes so commonplace it is no longer noticed. All of our neighbors along this ridge have done this but I haven't had the courage to ask how much they still notice the view!
~ 112 - Entrance transition
~ 117 - Sheltering roof
~ 132 - Short passages
~ 133 - Staircase as a stage
~ 138 - Sleeping to the east
~ 139 - Farmhouse kitchen

IMO even using a few of the patterns can make a house more comfortable for the occupants.

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clipped on: 07.07.2012 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2012 at 08:14 pm

RE: Cutting Costs (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 06.18.2011 at 10:11 pm in Building a Home Forum

ICFgreen there were a few:

- Bellacor
- CSN Lighting
- Homeclick
- Lighting Universe
- 1 Stop Lighting
- Shades of Light (this store has some really unique pieces that were very different from things I saw elsewhere)
- Lighting By Gregory
- I got a 1930's art deco fixture on ebay (there's a bunch, probably not really going to fit in too well with your modern aesthetic, but if you haunt the ones that aren't buy-it-nows, you can get a great deal)

My strategy was to find a fixture on clearance on one site, and then do a search for the product name until I found it the cheapest since if it was on clearance on one, it was usually on clearance everywhere. It was time consuming b/c you can't just count on the Google product compare since sometimes there will be a coupon or something that lets you get it cheaper from a site that actually has a higher price. I also used Fatwallet Cash Back and a few other cash back sites, and googled for "coupon code" for any site I was going to buy from.

My 3 best deals, and again these are probably not quite your style but it might be useful for someone else):
- Progress Crawford Outdoor Lanterns These are regularly $186 or more and I got them for $62.00 each w/ coupon found by googling

- Sea Gull Highlands Large 15 light for great room (we needed a 4+ footer and everything else was very expensive, I got this for $1200 on a memorial day sale from this website.

- Progress Versailles This was a discontinued fixture and it is beautiful in person.

I am getting my custom cabinets from Dutch Wood Kitchens in Myerstown PA and I cannot possibly say enough good things or recommend them highly enough. They are mennonite (which is sort of like Amish) so no website, but here's a brochure. The quality of their workmanship is wonderful (dovetail construction, beautiful finishes, 3/4 plywood, etc). They are doing some extremely unique and difficult things for us (17 ft. high triangle bookcase going up to a vaulted ceiling, w/ library ladder), they are responsive and communicative, do beautiful CAD drawings, do what they promise when they say they will, get back to you quickly with quotes and drawings, are extremely nice (the person I am working w/ did like 40 drawings for one book shelf in my house to make sure I was completely happy w/ it because I couldn't find a design I wanted), have never ever said no to any idea I've had no matter how crazy and are very budget friendly. I've recommended them to at least 2 people on the kitchen forum who are using them and one persons kitchen is finished already and I gather turned out very well. My cabinets aren't installed yet but I've gone to visit them in the shop and they are coming along absolutely beautiful. If you are anywhere near PA, I highly, highly recommend them (they are going to Brooklyn for one of the people who found them off of here, so I don't know how far you are?). They also use domestic plywood w/ no formaldahyde (spelling?) and could probably use whatever other materials you want in order to be green, I don't know much about green design but they are very open and responsive to any ideas I have.

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clipped on: 06.20.2011 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2011 at 08:15 pm

RE: Experiences Ordering a Sink On-line (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: advertguy2 on 03.08.2011 at 10:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I am Canadian! I recently ordered my Ticor sink from Mainfaucet.com since Galaxytoolsupply didn't have any in stock. Everything went fine. Bit of a misunderstanding since they didn't have any in stock at thei time of order either, but it all got sorted out.

If you want to save a lot of money, have them send the sink to a US address, somewhere like www.cbiusa.com. You'll save a lot of money. Particularly if you can get it back over the border without declaring it. If you declare, you'll pay the tax, which isn't half bad anyways. I made a trip out if it and went to see Niagara falls with the kids. Also picked up my Karbon faucet which was pretty much half of what they're charging here in Canada.

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clipped on: 03.08.2011 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2011 at 01:53 pm

Finished Traditional Kitchen (lots of pics)

posted by: jm_seattle on 03.05.2011 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

THANK YOU GARDENWEB! We got so many great ideas from this forum, and everybody was so incredibly helpful and generous.

Here are some pics and a few details:
Island:
Island
Overview:
Kitchen corner
Refrigerator and pantry:
Refrigerator/Freezer
Message center:
Message center with built-in chalkboard
Breakfast nook:
Breakfast nook
Our KD wanted an extremely large window area to bring in light, but made it fit into the old house by breaking it up and using leaded glass:
new leaded glass windows
Sink w/glass filler, runnels, & built-in compost bin:
Sink w/Runnels & built-in compost bin
Built-in compost bin close-up:
Built-in compost bin
Mug shelf:
Mug Shelf
Charging drawer. This entire cabinet is deeper than it appears because it is built into the interior wall behind it, gaining an extra 4" or so of storage space without creeping into the walkway in front of it:
Charging station built into drawer
Island cabinets:
Island cabinets wtih cutting board
Miele ovens installed as flush inset (I searched and never did find pictures of this, so hopefully these will help somebody else):
Miele appliances mounted flush inset
Cleaning closet in "invented space" from interior wall:
Cleaning closet
Extra depth for the vacuum was made by reducing the depth of the drawers under the pantry:
Cleaning closet
The placement of the outlet underneath the music player shelf allows the nasty cordness to be hidden from eye-level:
Music Shelf
Toe-kick heater vent. The toe-kick face under the message center & island is covered with stained oak flooring. From eye-level, the toe-kick absorbs the correct amount of light and gives the appearance of freestanding cabinets.
Under island heater vent
The freestanding appearance is clearer here:
Cabinet built-into wall
Drawers under nook seating area:
Under-seat drawers in nook
There is a powder room off the kitchen. This wasn't our first choice, but ended up being our only choice in this old house, and has been okay, especially considering its placement is directly next to the hallway and away from the primary cooking area:
Bathroom off of kitchen
Adjacent mudroom, which became part of the kitchen remodel. The door is to a laundry chute which we use mostly for kitchen towels & napkins.
Mudroom

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures

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clipped on: 03.05.2011 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2011 at 10:41 pm

I don't know what this little room is, but I want it!

posted by: worldmom on 02.04.2011 at 11:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I found this on houzz.com

This is unbelievably stunning. Oh my goodness.

From Last Import

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clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 11:06 am

RE: Steel For Show, Steel For Go (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: johnliu on 02.05.2011 at 02:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Now I'm the one blushing!

It is hard to post a ''look''. I don't know Sketchup well enough to do all the textures and colors that would actually convey a ''look''. I haven't been systematically collecting inspiration pictures, and GW's search is weird enough that it is hard (for me) to go back and find old threads.

When I have something put together, I'll definitely post it for some, er, icy-um.

In general, think of parts of (the aesthetics of) theresse, macybaby, histokitch, antiquesilver. Add a splash of Urban Remains, too much of

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and a bit of

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Stir to combine.

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clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 10:43 am

RE: Butler's Pantry (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: worldmom on 01.27.2011 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ours is nothing in size like yours will be, but we did add most of another room (a small sewing room) to created it. There is still a little trim painting to do, and we've been junking it up with kitchen stuff while our kitchen is being done, but I'm happy with how it's turning out. :o)

From Last Import

From Last Import

From Last Import

From Last Import

From Last Import

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clipped on: 01.28.2011 at 09:33 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2011 at 09:34 pm

Finished pics - Creamy white, stained island

posted by: marmoreus on 01.25.2011 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is long overdue (we finished at the end of last August), but I wanted to thank all you Kitchen forum members for the great help. Thank you, thank you!!! I've really appreciated all the great information on this site. It has been such a helpful resource as we built a house for the first time.

On to the pictures.

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So far the kitchen is working out really well for us. Other than not loving the performance of my wall oven, I am happy with how it all turned out.

The details:

Perimeter cabinets: Decora (Chantille finish on maple)
Island cabinets: Sorrento (Hermosa finish on alder)
Backsplash: Walker Zanger Gramercy Park (Heirloom White and Pipe Smoke)
Granite on perimeter: Antiqued Nordic Black (love this!)
Granite on Island: Alaskan White
Pendant lights: Schoolhouse Electric
Knobs & pulls: Amerock Highland Ridge
Barstools: Restoration Hardware (bought during Friends & Family sale--20% off--yay!)
Wall color: BM Revere Pewter
Flooring: walnut w/ Waterlox finish
Sink: Shaw's farmhouse sink
Sink faucet/soap dispenser: Danze Opulence
Range: NXR
Wall oven: Kitchenaid
Fridge: Bosch
Dishwasher: paneled Bosch
Micro: cheapo GE

Thanks again!

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clipped on: 01.28.2011 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 01.28.2011 at 10:02 am

Layout ?'s ...do I need a prep sink and where to put mw?

posted by: med22 on 01.13.2011 at 07:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi-

Playing with layout and trying to place basics...sink, ref etc and wondered:

1. Do I need a prep sink on island? Based on sink and fridge placement, they are 13' apart....is that too far? If so would I put it on bottom left of island near fridge and range?

Layout below:
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2. Regarding mw... had been planning on putting in cubbie on island facing range ( photo 1 below) but then saw photo 2 here the other day of mw under upper cabinets. Thinking of putting it in similar set up in bfast area so kids and hubby can mw without getting in my way at range/stove. What do you think?

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Thank you
Maureen

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clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 10:13 pm

RE: cluttered chaos to clean and calm: finished! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: carriea on 12.31.2010 at 10:54 am in Kitchens Forum

Wow, you are all so nice- I knew this group would pick out all of the details that I specifically scoured GW to iron out.
I probably should have given some background on the scope of the project when I posted the photos.
-- when we moved into the house a few years ago, although the kitchen wasn't terrible, it was an awful use of space. There was a tiny island out of proportion with a huge "dead zone" between the kitchen and the family room. I hated the fact the kitchen looked out right into the family room. After debating half walls or building a small wall in the middle of the two rooms which would have created two very small areas, we decided to flip the orientation and build the taller cap to the island to create a divider without closing off either room.

We also had an awkward triangular wall that led into the room. Instead of straightening out the walkway, we embraced it and put in a nook there for the phone, cookbooks etc. We also toyed with moving the door to our dining room to have a better work flow and decided it wasn't worth the expense.
BTW, for anyone out there contemplating marble, I used GW almost obsessively to gather data on etching staining, etc to help me make this decision and I am soo happy we decided to use it. LOVE it, etches and all.

But most importantly, I wanted a space where I could put a big table and build a banquette along the window wall so that my entire family could eat at the kitchen table and hang out there.

To answer some questions:

Window treatment fabric: Kravet Glass - 315 (done a few years ago)

Chandelier: I purchased a few years ago from seagrasshome.com.

Pendants: Anthropologie -- although I just spotted them in the Ballard Home catalog cheaper argh!

Armoire cabinet: We used zinc in the leaded glass to pick up on the pendants and table top. My cabinet guy sourced that I will ask him for more details.

Hardware: Top Knobs-

Banquette specs: We built it around existing window, it is 20" deep by 123"
Fabric: Bella Dura cushion (indoor outdoor fabric)

Counter top: Bar overhang 12" (plenty of room) still need to paint our old bar stools to match cabinets!!

Sofas: Lee (can order through Crate and Barrel-- they have catalogs you can look through, typically not on floor of stores.) Fabric is Bimini (ordered a few years ago) If I could do it over, I would select smaller scale sofas, although I love the single cushion on the bottom, it is great for kids.

Paint: BM Silver Marlin. I have touted this before on this forum a great color. In person it reads more grey and looks fab with white dove.

Cabinets: Semi custom-- our main goal was to bring them to ceiling and add more storage space and are very happy with the result. Love all the drawers.

Floor: Red oak, we stained it when we moved in, it is darker than it appears in the photos. I think the stain was a walnut mix.

Fireplace: We redid the fireplace surround when we move in as well. It is Oceanside tile, and love it-- it's imperfections are its charm. When we redid the kitchen we lowered the mantel and took out some of the fussier trim off it.

We still would like to switch out the door knobs to the pantry and door to dining room with an antiqued nickel, paint the bar stools to match cabinets? Opinions here.. and perhaps swap out the table chairs.
Again thanks for all of your comments, seriously it wouldn't have turned out this way without the ideas I poached from this site.

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clipped on: 12.31.2010 at 06:18 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2010 at 06:19 pm

RE: Did you buy a Cross Country Greenhouse? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: birdwidow on 09.07.2007 at 12:52 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Hans:

Short of being picked up by a genuine hurricane or tornado that lifts entire roofs off of houses and dumps cars onto them, the roof vents on a BC GH will not blow off and if they did, BC very likely would, with great contriteness; replace them.

However, if you need to really cool a GH, you also need some extra height and that's particularly easy with a straight eave, that I probably ought have bought myself, but didn't because I fell in love with the look of the curve. Had I to do it over again, I'd have "sacrificed" asthetics for practicallity and bought a straight eave.

There has been a lot of debate on this forum regarding the use of ceiling fans in GH's and I believe that slowly but surely, those of us who have them may be winning converts. They are cheap to buy and will outperform any HAF fan or even an intake vent/exhaust fan set-up, but for them to do the job, you NEED the roof vents.

But you also need headroom to mount them and why the straight eave makes it so simple to get it. Besides, the taller the ceiling, the easier it is to cool the space below it.

Just mount your GH on a kneewall tall enough to get your eaves at least a full 8 ft. up from your eventual floor, and mount at least one, better two, outdoor ceiling fans directly under the roof vents.

Then, mount your intake vents as close to the ground as possible and again; if I knew then what I do now, my kneewall would be higher; tall enough to have installed the intake vents in it, instead of through the polycarb.

Not only would it have eliminated the need to go to so much effort to seal around the cut-outs in the polycarb, the closer to the ground you can get the intakes, the cooler the air will be as it's being drawn in.

I am not saying that wall mounted exhaust fans are useless, but given the choice between low mounted, north facing and shaded intake vents coupled with some powerful but silent ceiling fans- the ceiling fans win hands down.

Then, in winter, when the roof vents are shut down for the season, the ceiling fans reverse, to send the warm air down. It's really just an application of basic physics: warm air rises, cool air falls, so I use ceiling fans to pull cool air up from the floor in summer, to cool the using space, exhausting it through the roof vents, and then to force the warm air that rises inside in winter, back down to the floor.

I'll not go into all the details here. Just look at some other posts on the subject.

Kyle is waiting for my photos of the aluminum angle we used to fabricate the ceiling joists that serve as mounts for the ceiling fans. I have the photos. Now I just need to figure out how to send them to him. But the key was the heightened roof, because the purlins were the base for the joists that must be high enough to to keep the blades at least 7 ft. above the floor, and if the GH user is very tall, even higher.

BTW: The roof vents will passively exhaust warm air on mild days, and by doing so, cut energy use, although my biggest thing on the fans is in having two, and running them in opposite directions in winter, to maintain continual air circulation.

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clipped on: 12.06.2010 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2010 at 07:41 pm

Kitchen Towel Issue--Can you help? (PICS)

posted by: tanders on 11.27.2010 at 12:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

In our old kitchen, we used to keep the kitchen towels on a bar inside the sink cabinet. Now that we have cabinet latches on the sink cabinet, it's not so quick and easy to whip open the cabinet to grab a towel when you have wet hands.

I have seen pictures of a towel bar that I love. I would love to find something like this to put on my cabinet sink front. I love the big chunky bar and ends. The thing is, I'd like to find it in unlacquered or antique brass.

Does anyone have any idea where I might find something like this? Thanks so much! (And if I have unwittingly posted a picture that belongs to you, I apologize. I have been saving these pics for a long time and have no idea where I found them).

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Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen towel bars

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clipped on: 11.27.2010 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2010 at 02:24 pm

Ideas for vintage feel faucet to go with apron farmsink

posted by: farmhousegirl on 11.02.2010 at 11:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi All,

We are adding a farmsink to our country kitchen. Any suggestions?

Also, which do you think would be a better finish, polished or satin nickel? We have antique pewter cup pulls and knobs, a black six candle chandelier, and a black schoolhouse light fixture over the kitchen sink. I sort of like the Martha Stewart feel of the polished chrome faucet...but wonder if mixing too many metal finishes is not good.

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clipped on: 11.27.2010 at 08:50 am    last updated on: 11.27.2010 at 08:51 am

RE: Show me you plate racks, cup hooks, etc. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jm_seattle on 11.25.2010 at 02:38 am in Kitchens Forum

We are putting a teacup shelf under one section of our uppers. It will look like this:

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clipped on: 11.25.2010 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2010 at 09:39 pm

RE: Quartz that looks like soapstone? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sw_in_austin on 09.29.2010 at 09:22 am in Kitchens Forum

When we thought we couldn't find a fabricator for the soapstone we loved we almost went with honed Raven. Not that it looked particularly like soapstone but it was dark and the honed wasn't shiny. But the honed Raven sample seemed like it might stain with oil and it certainly showed fingerprints.

In the end we found a fabricator and installed soapstone. Two and a half years later I still love it. In my opinion, it's more practical than quartz. Sure I could scratch it but the scratches buff out with a green scrubby pad (we have a hard variety -- Beleza). And we do have few small chips around the sink edge but I'm not sure that wouldn't have happened anyway with quartz (the quartz tops in the showroom we visited were certainly chipped along the edge). And our counters simply don't stain and don't show fingerprints. We never oil (ours is naturally dark) and they do show oil spots, which are easily wiped away. And I can set any hot thing down on them with impunity.

All that said, I was quite taken with the Raven C'stone. It's just not soapstone.

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clipped on: 09.29.2010 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 09.29.2010 at 10:10 am

RE: Got my marble subway tile - see samples (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: shaughnn on 09.19.2010 at 02:02 am in Kitchens Forum

If you are determined to layout each tile, use a piece of "delicate surface" blue painters tape on each tile to number them all. I suggest each course starting "A1", "B1", "C1", etc., so the installer can collect them into piles and still follow your distribution.
Otherwise, trust your professional after making certain that he/she understand clearly what it is you want in this design.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

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clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 11:45 am

RE: got my hands on a vintage stove! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.24.2010 at 12:43 am in Kitchens Forum

I did a lot of cleaning and rehab, although not a whole lot of aesthetic work (although I did repair some chips using the recommended high heat enamel paint. Unfortunately, it's turned brown, argh, and I'll have to redo it some day).

I cleaned and re-lubed the valves, which had a slight learning curve, but turned out very well. This definitely improved the ease of turning the knobs. What's amazing is that it's entirely mechanical and the little knob clicking sounds are made by one tiny piece of metal flange. I can recommend this for a good tune-up -- can be done one at a time with automotive grease remover, lots of q-tips and special old valve lube.

You can also change out the gaskets and the burner rings. What I loooove is that you can adjust the burner btu performance depending on how hot 'hot' should be. Those are the little metal butterfly-wing aerators down below the front panel at the valves.

On ours, the grill and entire top is all chromed iron. We don't use the griddle just because the darned thing is so heavy (!) it's a pain to take off and lug to the sink. But it works beautifully. Francy, do you use yours regularly?

Our Grillevator is out of commission awaiting a new safety. We put new double window glass in the oven door, an adventure that will surely lead to divorce if you're not careful -- putting the door back together is a nervy process requiring 5 hands, a tube of gawdawful black stove caulk and the locking of all cats and other onlookers in the basement.

My grates also need re-enameling, it's about $40 each plus shipping so I haven't splurged on that yet. I spoke to a guy at Custom Ceramics who does this regularly and he said the turnaround is about a month depending on business.

Artemis, re. insulation: I did take mine entirely apart and reinsulate it with rather pricey new insulation from one of the online vintage stove parts places. The hardest part is getting the top off to get at the insulation cavity above the ovens, since this means dismantling all the gas pipes and valves.
But you can re-insulate the doors and sides very nicely without taking the top off, if you'd like. Ours is directly between cabinets and it's not been a problem at all. Taking the pilot lights on top into account, we do not notice any more heat coming out/off of the sides or front of the OKM than we did the newish Maytag Gemini that was formerly in the same spot. It's quite snug.

They make manuals detailing a lot of these repairs. Email me! (Francy, didja get my reply to yours?)

Hurrah for vintage stoves!

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clipped on: 09.26.2010 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2010 at 07:54 pm

RE: Cool cabinet 'insides' ideas... (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: cat_mom on 09.20.2007 at 09:53 am in Kitchens Forum

oofasis--here are some pics for you:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

The edges were smoothed or polished so they aren't sharp. Our cab installer used some very strong glue/adhesive to attach the sheets to the doors (they aren't going anywhere!). The sheet of metal on the right door is a little shorter so we could put a small screw in the door to hang a calendar (I took the calendar down so you could see the metal sheet). You can just barely make out the tiny screw near the top of the door if you look closely.

N.B.--the shelves and pullout were stepped back slightly to allow for magnet/paper/calendar clearance.

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clipped on: 09.26.2010 at 03:26 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2010 at 03:26 pm

RE: What a Long, Strange Sale It's Been (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ncrealestateguy on 09.25.2010 at 08:25 am in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

Shenandoah,
I raise my coffee in salute to your grand efforts and fortitude. And, as you now know, 99% of lease options and lease purchases are nothing more than a rental that more than likely will never go to close.
I sometimes do not like to give out pricing advice, because real estate is soooooo local. But, the advice that I can give to just about anyone trying to sell is this:

If you are getting no showings and no offers, you are way overpriced.
If you are getting a few showings and no offers, you are still overpriced.
If you are getting a lot of showings, and no offers you are close, but still a bit over priced.
If you are getting a lot of showings and at least one offer, you are priced right.

And again, I love your username. Did you know that the Indian translation is "Princess Of The Stars"?

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clipped on: 09.26.2010 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 09.26.2010 at 12:14 am

Custom doors for IKEA cabinets? Has anyone done this?

posted by: caligirl_cottage on 02.16.2008 at 02:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I keep hearing that Scherrs will do doors for the IKEA cabinet boxes, but I don't like their door styles that much and I want a white painted door in a mission or shaker style. Yes, I've gone to ikeafans.com but that website is pretty hard to navigate. I thought that maybe I'd try going to a semi-custom shop and having them do the doors. But would that eliminate the cost savings I'd have with the IKEA boxes?

If anyone has suggestions or experiences they'd be really appreciated!

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clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 02:21 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 02:21 am

Island Granite in--White Quartz pics!

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 03.20.2010 at 01:50 am in Kitchens Forum

They delivered and installed my White Princess Quartz counter for my island today. It was so exciting and I just love it. Now I know how you people with "granite love" feel. They are perfect! I had them honed and the finish makes the mica in the quartz shimmer....with the right angle, the white parts look sparkly gorgeous--like PEARLS! The second picture almost shows the shimmer and pearly quality on top of the drawers.

My fabricator was super worried about these slabs because he said they are so fragile to cut. He said it was like cutting sugar--had to cut them very slowwwwlllllly. But, now that they are cut and installed with reinforced plywood and rods, they are as strong as any other granite. LOVE them. My cabs look very yellow in these pics but they are actually fairly white (painted BM Simply White). The counters have a grayish/whitish cast to them, and I was worried about them being too "busy" since I am a marble lover. But I think they turned out just right. As mentioned, I especially love the pearlescent look and wish I could capture that in pics!

The perimeters and backsplashes will be next to fabricate!

From Menlo Farmhouse

From Menlo Farmhouse

From Menlo Farmhouse

From Menlo Farmhouse

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clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 04:25 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 04:26 pm

Danby Calacatta Marble

posted by: blondelle on 07.20.2008 at 09:08 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm surprised there isn't more talk on the board about this marble. There was so much on Misty Cararra, and the Okite Cararra, and other white marble substitutes. This is supposed to be stronger than the usual white marbles, denser, more etch resistant, and less porous so it won't stain as easily.

The veining patterns aren't quite as pretty as the other real marbles, but it still is very pretty and nicer than the engineered stones. It comes with brownish, greenish, and blue gray veining and slabs with little veining.

Would love to get more feedback on this. I know one gal used it, but anyone else use it? It's a great option for kitchen counters I think.

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clipped on: 09.03.2010 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2010 at 12:18 pm

RE: Pantry cabinets vs. bifold closet (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: melaska on 08.16.2010 at 09:48 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been doing a lot of poking around Houzz.com You can make idea books for each room...I have this pantry in my kitchen book. Looks like they are using a pocket door here...don't know if that would work for you, though. I think bifold doors are fine with a closet-type pantry.

I'll link a Houzz page on pantry idea books below - looks like I need to poke around some more :)

Custom pantry traditional kitchen

Custom pantry traditional kitchen

Here is a link that might be useful: Houzz pantry photo idea books

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clipped on: 08.17.2010 at 04:36 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2010 at 04:37 pm

RE: butcher block/cutting board set into counter? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: boxerpups on 07.16.2010 at 10:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are some images.
~boxer


Brookswood
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Kitchen View Web

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Point Louisana Magazine

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Butcher block and marble this old house
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corner cutting board
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FKB lleet
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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 07:22 pm

Head to Head Marble Test With Photos. Surprise Ending!

posted by: sfmomof2 on 03.23.2010 at 07:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

After weeks of obsessing we finally went out and got four marble samples from two local stone yards. In doing so we had two questions: 1. How bad is the marble etching issue, and 2. Is the premium for Danby marble worth it?

Two days later we have our answer, and it was a surprise!

First the test: Samples of Danby, carrara 1, a calacatta, carrara 2, and white granite with dots of olive oil, food coloring, balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, grapefruit juice. All were sealed with Miracle 511 sealer (couldn't find Porous Plus). We got two carraras because they were the cheapest and we really hoped to use one:

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Five minutes later: Except for granite all etched from the vinegar and the grapefruit juice, some small stains from food coloring:

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Following the protocol on the Danby Web site, next morning I scrubbed the samples with some Comet. I didn't go crazy - scrubbed them maybe 15-20 seconds or so. No benefit from the carraras - both remained as etched as ever, though the staining faded. As expected, the etching vanished from the Danby. Though a small spot of stain remained it looked as new:

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Here's the surprise - the Comet also removed all etching - plus all staining - from the random calacatta I picked. I picked it because it was the cheapest calacatta in the yard we were at. I looked at it for at least 10 minutes in every kind of light and couldn't find a trace. The little spots you see are cracks from when the sample was broken off of the slab:
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So now the tough test: Same substances for two and a half hours.

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Result, as expected, more prominent staining and etching. Couple of examples:

The Danby
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The Calacatta
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A Carrara
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I again scrubbed the samples with Comet to see if I could get the etching/staining off. Once again the carraras disappointed - while the staining wasn't an issue I couldn't get the etching to budge.

The other disappointment: While staining improved, etching didn't improve that much on the Danby. Also in addition to etching prominent "dark spots" remained on the stone.

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Finally we turned to our calacatta. At this point I was really rooting for it but not expecting much. The final result:

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Stains gone, etching still there (you can see the circles if you look carefully) but considerably improved. Note that sample was taken in same place under same light as pre-Comet treatment. The small dings are the cracks noted above. Also note that when I pick it up and really scrutinize it the etching *is* visible - its just harder to see.

The winner: Random calacatta took the prize!

To be honest, after weeks of being pro-marble the test made us pause. We really thought we were fine with etching until we saw it up close and personal. After the test the carraras are out of the running. We were fairly happy with the calacatta's performance; that is the only marble we're considering now. We are fairly neat people - only time we could imagine leaving liquids sitting on a counter is during a dinner party.

My conclusion: Marble is gorgeous. There is no substitute. The stuff also etches like crazy - it is *really* something to think about. Good news is every marble is different so if you're considering it test, test and test some more! Don't rely on someone else's results - I've noticed that all my "honed" marbles felt different and the etching looked MUCH worse on some than others. That might explain why some "marble" people say the etching is no big deal while others freak out. Try different kinds - you never know what might happen.

Good luck!

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 07:18 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 07:18 pm

RE: help--i've lost my china pantry pic, and my mind isn't far be (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mama_goose on 06.21.2010 at 10:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Maybe from mysweetsavannah's blog?

Here is a link that might be useful: pantry

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 07:16 pm

RE: Organizing the pantry & odd-shaped items (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pudgybaby on 05.29.2010 at 08:13 am in Kitchens Forum

I ordered a pantry with a regular drawer base and then a pantry cabinet on top with roll-out shelves. I plan to keep the larger bagged items (chips, bagged pastas, etc) in the drawers. The smaller bagged items will go in wire baskets on the roll-out shelves. I prefer the look of the drawers on the bottom, especially for a wide pantry as mine will be. I think the drawers break up the look and add interest rather than having large doors.

As far as the cans: some GWers lay their cans flat so they can see the labels and then squeeze in more roll-out shelves. Unless your cans will really be packed in, I don't see it as a real problem. I'm sure yours will be organized with like items together, right? But finding that certain flavor of soup you want will require lifting lots of cans! Will your roll-outs have solid sides (e.g. wood)? How high? I am using the Blum metal roll-outs with low sides and rods to provide some visibility, but still not great.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: blum tandembox with low sides

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 07:15 pm

Pantry photos/ pics of pantries

posted by: rhome410 on 02.03.2009 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are some great pantry threads that will eventually be lost and Starpooh suggested I post links here so that others can post and, hopefully, we'll keep some of these resources alive for those planning pantries in the future. (She pointed out that threads 'live' longer here than on the discussions side of the forum.) There is one thread, in particular, that has awesome photos of pantry interiors that I can open through a link I've saved, but if anyone posts on it, it doesn't become current again. Starpooh has put it in .pdf form and it is too large to download here, so I've linked it below.

Here is another walk-in pantry thread with helpful shelf spacing guidelines/recommendations:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0518351723171.html

There is also a previous thread with photos of closet style pantries, which I'm still trying to track down. Of course, photos of pantry cabs will be helpful to people, too.

Anyway, here's hoping people will start showing off their pantries here, so we form a pantry album for others to consult.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread as .pdf: Anyone Willing to Share the Inside of their Pantry?

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 07:14 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 07:14 pm