Clippings by bayarea-girl

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

Let's feed them

posted by: ken-n.ga.mts on 08.24.2014 at 09:54 pm in Rose Exhibiting Forum

Something I've learned about roses over the past 35+ years I've been growing them is, don't put a $20 rose into a .50 cent hole (I'll talk about that sometime later) and "feed me, give me some water". I've been growing roses since the early 1970's and never started exhibiting them until the spring of 1989. Since then I have tried several different "methods" of feeding roses for a rose show. Most with decent success. But I hit the jack pot back about 2004 using the feeding method I'm going to talk about. That spring I exhibited at 3 different Shows. Palm Beach, Orlando and Tampa Bay. 1 HT Queen, 2 HT Kings, 2 HT Princess', 5 HT Courts, 3 Florabunda Queens, 2 Doweger Queens, 1 Victorian Queen, 2 Best Shrub's, 1 minflora Queen, 1 miniflora King, 3 Miniflora Princess', 2 miniflora Court's, 1 mini Queen, 1 mini King, 1 mini Princess, 5 mini Court's. Plus many other awards at each show. It was a little work but the results paid off with a garden FULL of beautiful rose's. Good size blooms with vibrant color and deep rich beautiful foliage that made the rose's jut "pop". Here is what I did (and will start to do up here). The food was simple. K-Grow 15-30-15 and fish emulsion. For me, how much and how often was the trick. 8 weeks before my first show I mixed 1 tablespoon of K-Grow and 1 tablespoon of fish emulsion in a 2 gallon watering can (I had two watering cans) and gave each mature bush a full can. My smaller bush's got about 1 gallon of this mixture. For the following 5 weeks I used 1 teaspoon of K-Grow and 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion per 2 gal watering can giving each bush what it got the first time around. I water a lot, so this method gives my roses constant food. Like I said, I water a lot. Neighbors think my water hose is part of my body. The day before I feed I water each bush real well. The day after I feed I give each bush a quick watering. Nothing the following day. Then 2 days of decent watering. Then I start all over again for the following week. Constant food and a good watering program and my garden gave me roses like I had never seen before. When I retired and moved to N.Ga. I got away from what I did for a few years and I saw the difference in the bloom quality. I've started my weekly feeding again for our fall show. Hopefully I can get some decent blooms for the show. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.13.2014 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2014 at 11:41 pm

Your experience with Austin's Roses in American Gardens

posted by: desertgarden561 on 08.10.2013 at 01:35 am in Antique Roses Forum

I wanted the title to read American Gardens and those not residing in England, because it is my understanding that these roses were initially created for that climate, but it did not fit in the title. I know there are gardeners in Italy for example, who contribute immensely to this forum, and their Mediterranean conditions have similarities with some areas here in the states.

I often read posts and many gardeners disagree with the description of David Austin roses listed on the website; obviously some of these roses did not get the memo regarding expectations for their behavior when they visit other places and some go "buck wild, whereas others must be home sick. What inconsistences have you found or advice for gardeners in the your zone who wish to successfully grow these roses? We can contribute information using our real life experiences, to help other gardeners avoid pitfalls with this very popular class of rose.

In this hot desert, with primarily sandy, alkaline, nutrient void soil, amending is required for these roses, but I add a little more compost to the soil mix as compared to other roses. None of them are in areas that receive more than 5 hours of direct sunlight and they perform better with morning sun.

Golden Celebration performs well here and thusfar, I am having good luck with Gertrude Jekyll. Abraham Darby' s petals fried around the edges. Glamis Castle has proven to be extremely heat tolerant. It is the second garden and third move for ths bush; twice because of changes I made in color scheme etc. Honestly, while she has performed well, I stuck Glamis Castle in a planter bed where it receives 7 hours of sun beginning at about 10:00 a.m. The leaves are dark green, healthy and in my ongoing triple digit heat, this bush as about 7 pure white blooms on it. They have been pure white for two days. It has no fragrance in my garden, or at least none that I can detect. She's not a star, but definitely is suiting a purpose; holding down the spot for the rose that will soon take up that space.

I have a few new varieties but they are too new to provide input at this point.

Arriving this winter are Munstead Wood, Young Lycidas, Harlow Carr, possibly Crown Princess Margareta, and Pretty Jessica if I can find her.

What are you experiences; which varieties are the black spot magnets, PM prone,fail to thrive, have the best fragrance , beauty, are heat or cold tolerant, have matured to become larger or smaller than you expected etc.?

Lynn

This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Mon, Aug 12, 13 at 10:43

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.29.2014 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2014 at 01:20 pm

My Garden 2014 - Part 1

posted by: bayarea-girl on 06.21.2014 at 02:31 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I finally have time to upload the rose images that I have taken this year. I'm a beginner at planing roses and thanks to all the great and kind advices from this forum my roses are happy and bloom beautifully. Not all the blooms are perfect but I know they have been trying hard. Thank you everyone for making this possible. All the roses are 3 years or younger. Please enjoy the view - part 1 :)

America (climbing)

Bella'roma

Bewitched

Bishop's Castle

Carding Mill

Diamond Eyes (mini)

Double Delight

Ebb Tide

Elle

Firefighter

Ink Spots

Livin' Easy (left: Ebb Tide, right: Angel Face)

Liv Tyler

Luscious

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.27.2014 at 01:49 am    last updated on: 07.27.2014 at 01:49 am

My Garden 2014 - Part 2

posted by: bayarea-girl on 06.21.2014 at 03:08 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Please enjoy :)

Memorial Day

Neil Diamond

Peace

Peter Mayle

Pope John Paul II

Rock and Roll

Ruby Ruby (mini)

Scarlet Knight

Scepter'd Isle (very photogenic)

St. Patrick

Sunsprite

Unknow red (no fragrance)

Veterans' Honor

Whimsy (mini, beatiful, lovely fragrance, disease resistance, bloom continuously)

William Shakespeare 2000

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.27.2014 at 01:41 am    last updated on: 07.27.2014 at 01:41 am

Early Summer Roses...Lots of pics!!!

posted by: Arcus_85 on 07.17.2014 at 10:22 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Hey everyone, how have you all been? I've had my hands full this Spring with the shows, and all of these new plantings, and haven't been able to find the time to post anything until now. Hope you enjoy. More to follow...

Randy Scott photo ffa27868-8aa7-4fa1-9143-6a497d7b84fe_zpsb627f7a2.jpg

My Lady Barbara photo 49c165bd-aa6b-43c5-8a19-db36794e3bde_zps79c8663c.jpg
 photo 770ecdc1-330e-4f4a-ba51-0a9e4c58a39c_zps21dfc292.jpg

Veteran's Honor & Miss Kitty photo e3175045-fd51-48c5-b000-0fe96f2a460e_zpsce14d200.jpg

Sister Ruby photo bcc90f4c-a927-4c08-8774-82636bb33d10_zpsb095a33a.jpg
 photo 6e9c1289-b6ef-46a8-8feb-606a11073fa0_zps54e5336a.jpg

Carolina Pride photo 21aee34a-4c4b-4493-a38d-aba5aecd37b8_zps36d0a81d.jpg

Impulse photo 3800bbf0-c827-403f-953c-3a996f67f02d_zpse0bed7f7.jpg

Mohana photo 9321bf97-205d-4ee6-ad2d-36bad122aa42_zpsa2eb01d8.jpg
 photo 3e2b2a01-6c30-4734-b721-eac48c0d9be6_zps2e7fc4bb.jpg

Desperado photo a22e2f89-964b-42da-a630-ad4acceced7f_zps08d03395.jpg
 photo 63f70dc2-3594-41e8-b3d2-bd70b42ee669_zps68498296.jpg

Veteran's Honor photo 769d841b-5b71-42ba-bd40-8cd9f2c98811_zpsc9e511c7.jpg

Moonstone photo 14d0a91f-344a-4105-8f35-a695db99912e_zps7e8a8d25.jpg
 photo db7e1953-5880-4d7b-a315-8ad6971222a8_zps1694040a.jpg

Twice in a Blue Moon photo 7d377905-62b5-4079-949d-5f7db8dd7030_zps8d94f6a5.jpg
 photo c43fc849-7072-4331-9183-811f29bedd78_zps815ab874.jpg

Snuffy photo 640a6146-0dd9-46ef-a08e-7954bc73c50b_zps5930f037.jpg

Bugatti photo de9f562b-9019-45fc-8d5b-474bad1c6ffe_zps4b8daa16.jpg

Bugatti & Veteran's Honor photo 7643a293-9413-4c34-bcea-c165ea42835a_zps572e4d55.jpg

Prepping Uncle Joe for the show photo 01d5df3e-ddee-4aed-806f-5cb6f8e2e03c_zpsb091ec26.jpg

Mavrik photo 96915ee9-3d19-45a8-b702-24196a50a9e4_zps16df91bf.jpg

The Wright Brothers photo d76e4b84-2c89-4111-9f39-df28635f805a_zps64f28f02.jpg

First Dona Martin maiden bloom. Aside from the Thrip damage, really liking what I see! Pink sport of Randy Scott. photo 07f87a6e-b0e6-4337-a048-8c1cd6c97ea4_zpsdf790546.jpg

Marilyn Monroe photo 4876aa5e-62b9-4009-a4a5-401d61a495a2_zpsbc25188f.jpg

St. Patrick photo 06e8818f-14c4-491b-8c69-ac15d7e19f19_zps025e665f.jpg
 photo dad3a7e4-ae3e-47e4-a270-37086617c722_zps253476e9.jpg

The Great White photo d9ee1282-a22f-486b-bb82-3734dda3d772_zpsf116a011.jpg
 photo 6c7a8bb5-e5c9-4237-b26e-411b471e2130_zps5722e6a8.jpg
 photo 9ba3071d-68dc-45f3-932c-b70e5723b19d_zpse8f0be1a.jpg

Hot Princess photo a55c3f88-37c5-474b-92df-4cdd23431018_zps15ad8e29.jpg

Marilyn Wellan photo db37027e-40f0-4a25-bad0-887407208148_zpsf095d933.jpg
 photo 2e49d5d5-717d-4e7e-8b42-98aa2e796a85_zpsab288cf9.jpg

Signature photo bab081a6-592a-471b-951c-1fae82b742c6_zps44df5108.jpg

Gemini photo 47df777d-8240-4e46-a6d3-ee2ccd353954_zpsb0fb017c.jpg

Dina Gee photo 66052c3a-cc2d-4f5d-8d90-26f7a7ddf69f_zps8bddb298.jpg

Let Freedom Ring photo 907553e1-244f-4387-b7c2-498a8478d918_zps3cd2bd18.jpg

Here's Gert photo 07ab0d7a-87be-4192-8d09-6ef8595b7255_zps769eb6e2.jpg
 photo 10c298aa-fc9c-47a0-8037-7d039aed0d74_zps09bb904e.jpg

Grande Amore' & Mohana photo db358dc5-6efa-4092-84b8-c85ce3e52254_zps8d3b0134.jpg

Our winning picture frame of Marilyn Wellan photo 51508c2c-5519-499e-ae9d-e0d62972c4f0_zps80acb327.jpg

Our best English Box of Hot Princess & Randy Scott photo bb90edd5-98f0-4f88-bf1d-ad24f7e7dfcf_zps63bbeb91.jpg

Another of our winning English Boxes. This one is Veteran's Honor, Moonstone, & Desperado photo cbdaa7ea-17d2-4ee0-91a2-ab7d95cb17a0_zps04bb77b8.jpg

Best Picture Frame with Miss Kitty photo c44c4aef-c4a4-4de5-ab12-a5e30cde63b0_zps29994fa1.jpg

Our Princess of Show, Miss Kitty photo d3e6c14c-6f76-4364-bfdd-124b5e69f020_zps0e2054f8.jpg

Trying out a few Minifloras this year.
Unbridled photo 888eb21c-40cd-43c4-b428-fd832760d6d8_zps93d8095a.jpg

Show Stopper photo 254307e6-697a-438f-9cbe-6f572a31b7d5_zps7bd04e77.jpg

Whirlaway photo 6f404cc2-37fa-4ae2-a5ee-c1c41a0d4024_zps26c18109.jpg

Baldo Villegas photo dc4f0144-49d0-4f8c-828c-7a9edfe59de8_zpsadaf335e.jpg

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.23.2014 at 03:47 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2014 at 03:47 pm

RE: David Austin Roses for California (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jo_pyeweed on 02.05.2014 at 10:32 pm in Roses Forum

I am right by the bay and we have cool summers (temperatures rarely get into the 70s). My garden is no-spray. Powdery mildew is a menace here and anthracnose and cercospora trouble the roses that are prone to "spotting".

Belle Story - grafted. 10+ years. Spring and fall flushes with smattering of blooms in between. Good health but is prone to cercospora spots in summer. It has earned its place in my small suburban garden because of its enchanting and breath-taking blooms. Great fragrance, as well.

Molineux - I have 2. Own root (4th year) and grafted (10+ years). Always in bloom. Good health. My workhorses. Can be pruned to stay 4-5 feet.

Geoff Hamilton - own root; 5th year. Gorgeous blooms but a once-bloomer in my garden. I have seen it grown grafted in a warmer summer area where it has 3 big flushes.

Crown Princess Margareta - own root in its 4th year. Good spring flush and then all she wants to do is throw out long thin thorny (she has drawn blood) canes; I have almost no rebloom from her. I am tired of constantly hacking her back in attempts to control her exuberant growth. A few miles inland, a CPM, grafed and grown as a shrub, is almost constantly in bloom. CPM will be gone from my garden after this spring.

Mary Rose - own root; 4th year. So far, she is staying small. Great fragrance, good rebloom and healthy plant. A favorite.

Abraham Darby - own root, 4th year. I am trying to grow it as a small climber. It is generous of bloom and has decent health. The blooms leave something to be desired (mine don't always look like the pics on HMF) and I would replace it with a better rose but for its fragrance...

Young Lycidas - grafted, 4th year. Good repeat and blooms are very fragrant. Color is lovely - magenta-purple with a silvery sheen. Foliage is, well, weird. Crinkley and appears diseased but is not. Needs staking as the canes are pencil-thin and can't hold the heavy blooms.

Strawberry Hill - grafted; 3rd year. Gorgeous, fragrant blooms in shades of pink, peach and lilac depending on the weather. Generous of bloom. Prone to mildew and rust in my garden. (I hadn't seen rust in my garden before). Nasty, wicked thorns that snag. I grow it as a small climber and I am hoping it becomes more disease resistant with age as its foliage when not mildewed or looking like cheetos is absolutely lovely.

The Wedgwood Rose - Grafted; 3rd year. This rose has me baffled. I get 4 flushes but each flush has only 3-4 blooms. The size of blooms have ranged from the size of a quarter to 4 inches. Completely disease-free....of course.

The following were added to my garden in March last year, so too early for me to cast judgement but I am adding my observations on health and bloom. All are grafted.

Princess Anne - lovely shade of magenta-pink. Much admired by visitors. I can't detect a fragrance but most others say it is strong and very pleasant. Good-looking shrub. Canes are covered in thorns but they are not vicious. Stopped blooming after October.

Wollerton Old Hall - lovely blooms. Great fragrance. Bloomed well into December. Is my favorite of the new four.

Lady Emma Hamilton - would grow it for the fragrance alone. Plant appears to be healthy and repeat seems to be very good. I think you will enjoy having her, FJ.

Princess Alexandra of Kent - big blooms with a color range of pink and coral. Fragrance is iffy but, when there, it is pleasant. Has been constantly in bloom and is blooming now. Unfortunately, prone to powdery mildew. It's in an east facing bed and I will be moving it to a south-facing one to see if I can keep the PM in check. Also, the blooms have a tendency to ball so I am hoping the south side will help in that regard as well. (I try not to get roses with a high petal could but I guess I wasn't paying attention when I ordered this one.) FJ - I think getting her own root is probably a good idea. Mine is already 7 feet wide.

Jo

Wollerton Old Hall

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.22.2014 at 03:44 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2014 at 03:45 pm

RE: Abraham Darby or A Shropshire Lad? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: morrisnoor on 12.24.2007 at 05:28 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Ingrid,
here's the list of my top 5 Austin's:

'Abraham Darby': a must to have. Powerful, fruity strong scent, a deliciuos colour mix, great vigour, everblooming.
'Teasing Georgia': simply the best of all yellow Austins. Elegant, arching growth, flowers profusely in cluster of three to seven large flowers, in an exquisite blend of pastel yellows, from lemony cream to light apricot. A delightful, tea-scented Rose who can really touch your soul.
'St. Swithun': the spring flush in this Rose is amazing, the arching (pegged down) bush covered with huge flowers smelling myrrh. Beautiful foliage, light green and always looking healty and lush. The flowers change their shape from spring to fall, but always gorgeous. Don't care about heat.
'Alnwick Castle': love, love, love everything on this Rose: the compact, dense growth, the big cupped flowers in the 'Brother Cadfael' way, with centers filled with tiny petals. The scent is overwhelming, reminds me raspberry candies :o) Good grey-green foliage. Constant and abundant flowering, and vigorous but not rampant growth.
'Swan': not a wide known Rose, sometimes referred as the "white counterpart" of 'Claire Rose', but definitely better in my opinion. Vigorous, lushy erect growth, full of light green foliage. Almost thornless, light green canes. The buds are exquisite, urn-shaped, opens slowly in full imbricated rosettes, ivory white flushed with buff in their centers. The form reminds me 'Sombreuil/Colonial White'. The flowers are very heat resistant and also very long lived: they opens well all year round. The fragrance is moderate, but good.

The top 10 also include:
'Golden Celebration'
'Happy Child'
'The Reeve'
'William Shakespeare' / 'WS 2000'
'Heritage'

Ciao!
Maurizio

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.21.2014 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2014 at 04:12 pm

RE: Thoughts On Powdery Mildew (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: roseseek on 05.04.2014 at 12:34 pm in Roses Forum

You're welcome Bayarea-girl. The choice whether to retain a particularly "needy" plant is completely personal. I coddled Angel Face for years because of the color, scent and beauty it COULD provide, as long as I catered to its needs. I completely understand why someone would want to provide it the extra care. I have done that for many years to one of the most intractable roses ever introduced - Grey Pearl.

Everything in Nature exists for a purpose. Rust (and black spot) are "geriatric diseases" as they primarily affect aging foliage. Mildew is a juvenile disease as it affects new growth first. Rust is actually used by Nature to trigger many species to stop their juvenile stage, cease flowering (ovulating) and trying to reproduce. R. Arkansana utilizes the increasing sunlight and warmth of spring to put the melting snow and winter/spring rains to use, triggering its "reproductive stage". It begins pushing new growth and flower buds along the previous year's growth in its effort to set seed and reproduce itself. Reproduction and perpetuation of the species are the "Prime Directive" in Nature. As long as those light, temperature and moisture levels continue, it (and many other once flowering types) continue pushing new growth, new flowers, in pursuit of that goal.

As the year progresses, the sun rises higher in the sky. Heat intensifies and water begins to run short, making maintaining that growth and flowering push more of a strain on the plant. If it continued using its dwindling resources growing and flowering without preparing for the harsher winter conditions, it would either completely use them up prematurely and die, or enter the extremes of the winter weather where it is indigenous, unprepared for hard freezes and be killed by them.

As the heat increases and water becomes increasingly scarce, it appears the plant's immune system is impaired and the species contracts rust to a rather heavy degree. The fungi impairs the plant's ability to feed itself, triggering it to begin "hardening off", altering the sap to conserve the moisture and nutrients it has absorbed and generated when conditions were better for it to push its growth. Hardening off conditions it to withstand greatly reduced light levels and much greater cold. Nature uses rust (and some other triggers) to "tell" Arkansana to stop expanding, stop reproducing, ripen its seeds and prepare to shut down for winter. You will see the same mechanisms at work with many weeds and other desirable ornamentals. Petty Spurge, a common "weed" member of the Euphorbia family, as well as many Oxalis follow the same cycle of growing until triggered to rust badly and shut down until better conditions arrive.

It is entirely possible the contraction of rust by other types might be used similarly and be caused by similar triggers. I attempted to grow R. Arkansana in a large pot here in my garden. It suckers vigorously. I didn't want a yard full of the plant, nor did I want to have to irrigate a large stand of one type. I knew Arkansana's mature foliage rusts in fall, but I didn't expect the brand new foliage to rust immediately after unfurling, particularly in spring when nothing else was rusting. I theorized that it contracts the disease "in the wild" due to decreasing water, so I increased the water to that pot. The old, rusty foliage fell and was replaced by new, healthy foliage all over the plant. As long as I continued providing heavier water to it, the plant grew and flowered without contracting rust. Long before anything else in the garden showed any signs of rust, I cut back the water to my Arkansana. It began rusting almost immediately. Increasing the water again resulted in new, healthy foliage pushing all over the plant. As soon as I cut back the water again, even the new foliage developed rust. Arkansana has gone on to someone else's garden where it can enjoy greater water, more room and conditions closer to its natural habitat. I've grown a number of the Canadian cold hardy Arkansana hybrids. All but one performed the same way. As long as I provided the extra water and never permitted them to experience water stress, they grew and flowered well and remained healthy. As soon as they began stressing for water, all but Morden Blush rusted badly, very quickly. Morden Blush remained completely healthy in this climate. I really loved the whimsical veining and stippling in Morden Ruby's flowers, but I could not keep the foliage rust free unless I chemically treated it, something I refuse to do for a variety of personal reasons. So, that one is no longer in my garden. Eliminating water stress in this climate and my soil is virtually impossible. Varieties which can't endure that stress without quickly contracting rust simply aren't suitable for the variables I garden under.

One of my favorite miniatures to use for breeding is Cal Poly. It is extremely fertile, thornless, accepts a wide variety of pollen, generates many very viable seeds and produces many thornless offspring. I grow them potted to make protecting their hips from squirrels and other rodents easier and to make access to their flowers for pollination more convenient. I quickly learned not to allow their pots to dry out too far or they rusted quickly. Grown in the ground, they've never rusted for me anywhere I've grown them. When I have rust (or other disease issues) on seedling roses I raise, I experiment with water levels in hopes of discovering whether that might make a difference in their health. Most often, it does.

Of course, each variety, each seedling, varies quite a bit in its natural resistance to disease. Particular garden conditions as well as climate differences play enormous parts in the probability a variety may contract a disease. One of the easiest to control in your efforts to diagnose the cause of the infection is how much water, when and how the plant receives it. I would bet starting with that would help figure out whether the plant is suitable for where you are, the conditions you can't change and your preferences whether to chemically treat the infection or not. It has streamlined that determination for me greatly. Kim

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2014 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2014 at 10:33 pm

RE: Thoughts On Powdery Mildew (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: roseseek on 04.29.2014 at 12:24 am in Roses Forum

There are several facets to the hosing off, Henry. First, anything which provides a coating to the leaf surface when the spores are in contact with that tissue and conditions are right for them to germinate will help prevent germination. Second, you may actually be "rinsing them off" the foliage. Just as importantly, drip irrigation is not sufficient for most ornamentals now the winds are back; it's as arid as it is; the sun is as intense as it is now and the temps are rapidly becoming extreme. Water stressed roses (and many other plants) are forced to mildew, and many are forced to rust. Their immune systems are impaired by the water stress and the foliage contracts the diseases. So, yes, hosing them off can greatly help. I used to water my old Newhall garden of 1200+ bushes via overhead oscillating sprinklers. Zero diseases. Zero bugs. As long as I "rained" on them with the oscillating sprinklers they were free from diseases and bugs. They grew like weeds and flowered amazingly. Unfortunately, those 'good old days' of cheap, plentiful water are long gone. Water remains the best fertilizer, fungicide and pesticide you can use. Kim

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2014 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2014 at 10:33 pm

Thoughts On Powdery Mildew

posted by: henryinct on 04.28.2014 at 02:48 pm in Roses Forum

When we moved to Pasadena from Connecticut in 2012 I was thrilled at the thought of never having to deal with black spot again but I soon discovered that SoCal has its' own scourge and that is powdery mildew. Most roses are susceptible to PM ranging from hardly at all to very vulnerable and in extreme cases the rose shrivels up. It can be as bad a problem as BS was back east.

How to deal with it? Here is what I have found out. First, I noticed that some areas of the gardens had a lot of PM and others none at all and that air circulation and amount of sun were probably the most important factors. The roses are bigger and thicker this year than last so there is more shade and less air circulation.

I also noticed that PM spreads from one rose to the next first appearing as spots on new growth and quickly covering infected areas. No single rose had it that didn't at least partially infect its' neighbors. I also saw that certain vulnerable roses were free of it in some areas and had it bad in others. For example, Oklahoma in one area was entirely free of it but Mister Lincoln which should be similarly vulnerable had it bad.

I've sprayed with Green Cure which is potassium bicarbonate and is absolutely safe and recommended for PM but it really doesn't help if the case is severe. It says on the label to spray at the first sign of PM which I didn't do but will in the future. If you are going to spray for PM you probably have to do it as a preventative as you have to for BS. Like BS, I doubt if you can do much about a severe infection of PM that is already present.

And then I found the answer (I think). I noticed that roses that were being doused every other day by the lawn sprinkler system had no sign of PM. Since the roses all are on drip systems most of them don't ever get wet except from the morning dew that doesn't always get dried off by the sun giving the PM spores a chance to take hold. Rain would wash them off but of course it almost never rains here. The spores which unlike BS seem to do their damage only on the outside of the rose spread from rose to rose needing only the moisture provided by the morning dew.

So the answer may be as simple as hosing roses down frequently something I know they enjoy anyway.. I'm hoping so. So far so good.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2014 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2014 at 10:32 pm

RE: Sudden cane death? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: buford on 05.03.2014 at 10:48 pm in Roses Forum

I read this in my Rose Society's Newsletter:

This spring I had to prune many of my older hybrid teas to the ground. Some of the young roses on ‘Fortuniana’ I left longer and just removed the really bad-looking canes. My logic for this is that ‘Fortuniana’-rootstock roses grow best when left tall and it might be too much of a shock to remove all of the old canes. Right now they are all putting out new growth, much of which is probably “fool’s gold”. Canes that are damaged and not outright killed by winter will always put out new growth. The problem is that this growth will likely be weak with lots of blind shoots and poor blooms if they bloom at all. But on these younger roses, I am hoping that the leaves will at least make enough food to give the bud union some extra “oomph” to pump out a few basal breaks before May. If they do, then I will prune out the weak, damaged canes so that all of the rose’s energy goes into the new strong canes. course this assumes that the bud union is healthy enough to do just that....no sure thing at all after the winter of 2013-14.
How can you tell if the cane is just damaged and not killed? After the dramatic plunge from temperatures in the mid-70s in late December to near zero in early January, canes that were killed turned black, meaning that all the cell walls burst inside the cane and in the cambium layer. Some “good as dead canes” also will look shriveled and desiccated. Damaged canes will have mushy brown pith or dried-out, shrunken pith with gaps in the center of the cane. Canes that have only slightly brown centers can go either way and might be worth keeping.
The most deceptive canes to diagnose are ones that are bright green, bright red, or a combination of healthy-looking green and red. These canes are often very large and beautiful looking. They formed late in the year when weather conditions were ideal for rapid growth. Sadly though, the reason they look so young and healthy is they did not have enough time to harden off before the severe freezes that occurred. Blame the warm December for that. These canes have “zero” chance of surviving and must be cut off at the bud union. When you cut into one, the center will have nothing but brown “gunk”. There is nothing there worth saving. This is the reason we do not fertilize after early September. We do not want to encourage these “monster basal breaks” to start growing. Growing conditions are perfect enough in late September and October without any extra help from over- enthusiastic rosarians. I am even considering changing my own practice on this matter to not fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer after the third week of August. We always thought that the excess nitrogen from an early September fertilizing would be long gone by the time October rolled around. Maybe it really isn’t!
I used to start planting roses for clients in late March. But with freezes in March and early April, I have pushed back my planting date to around April 10. On that day, I can look at the forecast for the next week to see if a severe freeze is likely. If not, I start planting. Of course if we see a severe freeze on May 1, that might be the signal to stop growing roses altogether. Let’s hope we don’t ever find out.
Okay, so now it is early May and we have a good idea which roses are going to recover and which ones are goners. What about ones that you are not really sure about? Do you dig them up or give them more time. Here are my rules of thumb for that...

If it is a rose I was already considering getting rid of, then bring out Mr. Shovel.
If there are no new basal breaks and the rest of bush does not look good, feed Mr. Shovel.
If the rose did not do well last year, let Mr. Shovel feast.
If there is at least one decent new basal break or low lateral cane and I like the rose, I give it more time.
If the rose is one that is hard to find and I like it, I will give it a bit more time even if it has not put out any strong new growth yet.
If the rose is a large mature rose which has done very well in the past and it is a favorite of mine, I will keep it and give it the entire summer even if canes continue to die back in June.
Why keep this one? A few years ago there was a big Thanksgiving freeze. I protected my roses well and thought they all survived the winter in good shape. Come the following spring, big canes on my best bushes started dying back. This continued into July, so I shovel-pruned and planted new bushes there the following year. That fall there were two roses, ‘Pat’s Choice’ and ‘Affirm’, that I never got around to digging up because they had large bud unions on ‘Fortuniana’. They still looked terrible and I did not want to go to the trouble of winter mulching bushes that I was going to dig up anyway. So I just decided to let winter finish them off and I would replace them next year when I had more energy for such things. To my surprise, these two roses that I had left for dead put out dozens of strong basal breaks. By summer, these bushes had recovered every bit to their former size and continued to be two of the biggest bushes in my garden. Now they have suffered heavy damage again and I have cut them back again. I am anxious to see how they recover this time.
If you have decided to let a badly damaged bush recover, here is what you do. First, keep it well-watered. Water every day if possible in hot weather. Fertilize with your favorite liquid fertilizer like Mills Easy Feed, Peter’s 20-20-20, MiracleGro, etc., according to directions. Pinch off all flower buds as soon as they appear. Do not let them bloom at all! This will divert all the energy into making new canes, not mediocre blooms. It is imperative that you spray religiously. You need every last healthy green leaf to make food for the recovering rose bush. Pick off Japanese Beetles as you see them. You will not have many because they are drawn first and foremost to the blooms. And there will be no blooms on these recovering roses...right? Do not spray for beetles...period! Over-spraying for beetles will encourage spider mites and your precious recovering rose does not need to deal with mites. If you do get mites, wash them off the undersides of leaves as soon as you see them. Use a water wand to wash each leaf. Do this for a few days in a row. This will also double as your daily watering for the roses as well. Stop regular fertilizing by late August, although you can use superphosphate, root-stimulator, or even Mills Magic Rose Mix (the dry stuff) as they have very little nitrogen. This you can do into early September. Just remember, use nothing with more than 5% nitrogen. If you are lucky, by September, the bushes will have recovered enough that you can let them bloom and pick some blooms for the house. If not, they may need more time.
One final option for your freeze-damaged rose is to dig it up, put it in a five or seven gallon pot, and baby it with lots of water and fertilizer. Bring it into a warm garage or greenhouse in the winter and presto...you will likely have a nice looking rose to plant next spring. I do this all the time with clients’ roses that I remove to make way for the new roses that they want, even if the roses are in ghastly shape that only a mother could love. I pot them up in five-gallon nursery pots, using a nice Fafard potting mix. I put them in a half sun/shade area of my yard so they will not burn up in the hot summer sun and then take care of them for the rest of the year. In late fall, I move them into my greenhouse and by spring, quite often I have nice looking roses that can be planted into someone’s garden. This does entail a bit of extra work though, so be sure you want to go to the effort before you start. The final thing you will need to do is to provide winter protection for the recovering rose. I have started using the Nutra mulch from Green Bros. Earthworks for my winter protection. It is a nice brown fine-textured light and fluffy mix that is easily applied. It also will help feed your roses as it breaks down the following spring and summer. Mound it up high around the canes and pray we do not have a repeat performance of this year’s disastrous winter.
My final note on rose damage deals with what to do with tree roses. To my pleasant surprise, the past three winters have not been too hard on my tree roses, even considering how cold my garden is compared to much of metro Atlanta inside the perimeter. My tree roses include ‘Lasting Love’, ‘Julia Child’, ‘Moonstone’, and ‘Sedona’. There was virtually no damage at all on them since 2010. This is surprising since the bud union is three feet above ground and totally exposed.
There is really not much I could have done to protect them this year with the exception of draping frost cloth over them and putting a small heater underneath the frost cloth. In northern gardens, rosarians sometimes loosen one side of the roots and lay the entire tree rose on its side and cover it with mulch or soil. I will say this now...that is just too much work and it would not have helped this winter! If you had actually tried this, you would also have had the unpleasant surprise of seeing new shoots growing vertically from the canes that were lying sideways at ground level. This would have been bizarre indeed! Gardens in the north don’t have three weeks of temperatures in the 60s and 70s to deal with, so they do not get shoots growing straight up. But we do!
That is all for now. May your roses have survived winter’s ravages and thrive throughout the upcoming summer months.
From the April 2014 issue of The Phoenix, newsletter of the Greater Atlanta Rose Society, Bobbie Reed, Editor.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.04.2014 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2014 at 10:31 pm