If it were me, I'd start with a sheet of plywood cut to the ultimate size of your mirror (including the tile border). Have a glass shop make a beveled mirror to the size you want. Or if cheaper, find the mirror first then cut the plywood to the size of the mirror plus the border. You want at least 1/2" plywood to be sturdy enough.

Glue the mirror to the center of the plywood, then glue the tiles around it. Just make sure if you do end up grouting it, you tape off the mirror to avoid scratching.

What would be the clean and easy way to level it? We do not wish to use Asphalt or Felt Paper due to allergies.

I have Levelor (honeycomb) energy-efficient blinds, and they are very good IF you place them within the window frame. Our problem with them is condensation on the windows in the winter to the point the dripping moisture stained the wood trim.

FYI: ANY type of window-covering that is placed on the outside of the frame - even energy-efficient curtain panels - (without a pelmet to stop air cirulation) only creates a "chimney" effect - hot air rushes under the bottom and goes out the top by the rod, of the window covering. While in transit, the air cools on the window and re-enters the room as cold air. Not your best energy-efficient window covering.

An even better choice are window quilts (you can Google for information and how-to-make-your-own). I made them for our previous townhouse. They include a layer of water resistant material (I used 98-cent mylar emergency "blankets" I bought in the camping dept. at Wal-Mart), a layer of insulating material, and a decorative fabric, all quilted together. You can make them into Roman Shades so they are easy to raise and lower. I also had a strip of plastic magnet (metal magnets will rust from condensation and moisture) so they stick to the inside of the window frame ALL THE WAY AROUND THE WINDOW. Once again, these MUST fit inside the window frame in order to be energy-efficient.

Something we did this winter that has really helped, even though we have high-quality blinds and energy-efficient windows....we added one more layer of inexpensive insulation by putting bubble wrap on the windows. Mostly because we've had such cold weather this winter.

Easy to install... You spritz the window with water and press the flat side of the bubble wrap on the windows (hint: you want to cut the bubble wrap to fit, or a tiny bit smaller than the window). (see link below for more information and pictures) It AIN'T pretty, but it was cheap and it worked VERY well (we don't raise 90% of our window blinds when it's this cold, anyway). It's easy to remove and reuse.

Our neighbor, also a new house, nearly the same square foot, has an electric and gas bill that is double ours. They only have shears on their windows, so their window covering does nothing to help keep heat OR cold out/in.... The bubble wrap had a surprising secondary benefit - no more dripping condensation on the windows.

Last year we also replaced all our half-screens (window screens that only fit on the lower half of the windows) with full screens. We used low-UV screen (diffuses up to 80% of the UV rays) to help with the hot summer sun (it gets VERY hot in Kansas - temperatures over 100°F are common in the summer). We only have windows on the east and the west, so we don't get any passive solar from the windows in the winter so we left the full screens on. They are thicker than regular screen and we think there is a small benefit to that, as well.

Those are some of my experiences....

-Grainlady

Here is a link that might be useful: Bubble Wrap Window Insulation

IMO, flipping is for those with know how and/or who have a pot of money to spare. In order to have the best chance of not winding up underwater on a flip, one REALLY needs to know what they are doing who has solid hands on knowledge of all the systems of the home..or have the money to hire someone who does..and they don't come cheap.

IMO…..best bet is to first have the home inspected by a highly qualified home inspector. That means one who has a license in good standing in your state if it is one that licenses the profession; the HI should also carry errors & omissions insurance that is in effect. The HI should provide a detailed narrative report with digital photos of any defects found…..not a generic same day check list……or a bunch of boiler plate. Be prepared to pay more than the cheapie going rate for an inspection that is truly meaningful. Last but not least…...check references. Have the home inspected for termites and signs of termite damage either by the HI if he is licensed to do so as well (termite inspection is beyond the scope of a home inspection, and in many states requires proper training and licensing, or a qualified termite insepector.

Also hire a firm that inspects underground oil tanks if the home has one in order to make certain it is not leaking...as such leaks have been known to cost in the thousands……sometimes millions, depending on just how much land needs to be cleaned due to the leak spreading. Be prepared to have to pay to have the tank decommissioned if need be.

If it has a septic system, hire a qualified septic firm to make certain all is in order...which requires excavation etc. Don’t let anyone sell you on a dye test only…..as that simply tells you the system is working at the moment……which means it could be ready to crash at any time. In some areas, like here in NJ, a new septic system can run about 25 to 35K…..without complications…such as problems finding another area that "percs" in order to establish a new leach field.

At least one would then have a decent idea of any visible defects that may exist, that could also indicate the existence of more defects that may be hidden.

Flipping is NOT for the faint of heart, or for those on a tight budget or for those who are not experienced general contractors who don’t have the money to hire one….
Expect to spend a good deal of money, time and sweat equity….and be well prepared to deal with all of the permits that most likely will be required for much of the needed work. Visit your city/town's code official to determine code in your area...as once you start renovating, code issues that are grandfathered in as pre-existing usually have to be changed to meet current code. So..you may wind you having to change things that you thought could remain as is...which can be VERY costly.

I strongly suggest that you research this VERY carefully on the web and in the library, and not move forward until you are VERY well educated on all of the pros and cons involved. That is the only way to "flip" responsibly, without losing your shirt....and even then in this market, there are no guarantees....especially if credit remains tight making it very hard for even many well qualified buyers to obtain a mortgage.

Last but not least, talk to people who have renovated their own homes...and hear the tales of problems, unforseen complications, mistakes, delays etc. that have cost them to go way over their planned budget. That could give you a decent idea of what to expect. Prepare for the worst...and hope for the best.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as planning for storage can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

• Before posting a question, search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.


• When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!


• In the Subject, the site changes the inches indicator (") to a foot indicator ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single qoutes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.


• When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:


• Have replies emailed to you: check the box offerring this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page)


• Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.


• When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.

How are the home page and the Forum organized? (from the FAQs)

The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. Then threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread starts to drop.)

Below that are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.

Below that (and at the top of the thread list) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery sectors - these are set up similarly but not nearly as active. Conversations is for chatting on non-kitchen topics; Gallery is for pictures.

Next down is a Search button -- very important!

Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally are some instructions and links at the bottom.

Posting a link

There are two ways to post a link:

Using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

1. Insert the link in the Optional Link URL box


2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked int the Name of the Link box


3. If this is a new Post, then you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
   <a href= http://www.XXX/>Description</a>
2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link


3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you "preview" your message

Posting a picture from your photo hosting account (e.g., PhotoBucket)

FAQ: Adding Pictures and Links [Note: If using PhotoBucket, copy the code from the line/box labeled "HTML Code"]

Posting a picture from somewhere other than your Photo hosting account

1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want the picture to be:
   <img src="http://www.XXX/image.jpg">
2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/image.jpg with the address of the image.


3. When you "preview" the message, you should see the picture

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Layout Help

We often get requests to help with layouts. Many of us enjoy doing this but it would help if you can post a copy of your layout, preferably to-scale.

• The best place to start is to draw up your kitchen (to scale, if possible) either without cabinets & appliances if you don't know where to start or w/your proposed new layout if you have something to start with. Regardless, measure and label everything...walls, ceiling height, widths of doors & windows, distances between windows, walls, doorways, etc.
• If you cannot move plumbing or gas, mark them on your drawing as well.
• Mark all doorways & windows (w/dimensions) and label them as to where they lead. If they're actual doors, mark how they swing.
• It also would be helpful to see the connecting rooms, even layouts so you see how they interact with the kitchen and/or extend the kitchen feel and flow.
• Make note of traffic flows in and out of the kitchen

Make a list of things like:

• What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc.
• Do you plan to merge two rooms/areas (e.g., Nook and Kitchen into a Kitchen only)
• Where are you flexible?
• Can windows or doorways change size?
• Can they be moved?
• Can windows be raised/lowered?
• Can any walls come down?
• Does the sink have to be centered under a window?
• Does it have to be under a window at all?
• Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center?
• What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.)
• Range or Cooktop?
• Single or Double or no Wall Oven?
• Warming Drawer?
• MW? (Advantium, drawer, OTR, countertop, built-in, shelf?)
• DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2?
• Refrigerator CD or standard depth?
• Vent Hood?
• Other?
Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? Counter depth or standard depth refrigerator, etc.)
• Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets?

***** Very Important *****

Is there anything you:

• Can't live without?
• Definitely don't want?
• Would like if you can find a way?

This information will be valuable to not only you, but also any Kitchen Designers you may hire or talk to. Additionally, if you've been haunting the site, you'll notice that we also help with almost all aspects of the remodel, including layout help.

If you do ask for help, then all of the above information will help us help you. Sometimes we stray from what you think you want to give you some ideas that you might not have thought of, but it's your kitchen and you can veto anything...we may argue for something (we're good at that!), but in the end it's what you want. And remember, we are just giving you ideas and possible layouts, in the end when you finalize your design it's whatever you want and decide on! After all, this is your kitchen! [Keep this in mind if/when you use a Kitchen Designer--it's your kitchen, not his or hers...don't let them talk you into anything unless you're sure it's what you want!]

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When your kitchen is complete, please submit it to the Finished Kitchens Blog! This way your kitchen will join others in inspiring and helping newcomers!

Add your kitchen to the FKB!

Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun!

Cabinets: Medallion Santa Cruz maple with Divinity Finish
Range: 30" Wolf Duel Fuel
Refrigerator: 30" Liebherr
MW: 24" Sharp Drawer MW
DW: Miele Optima
Sink: 30" Shaws Farm sink
Faucets: Perrin and Rowe
Hardware- Oiled Rub Bronze:
Small Latches: Rejuvination
Cup pulls: Deltana Elongated Shell Handle Pull from www.cabinetpull.com
Knobs: Restoration Hardware
Countertop: Soapstone- Green Mounain Original P.A.