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RE: Planting Thuja Green Giant Screen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: katrina1 on 05.10.2008 at 01:14 am in Trees Forum

Plant them on at least 6 feet centers. It would be even better, if you desire a faster privacy screen, to plant two staggered rows of them with each being planted on 8 or 10 feet centers, and the staggered rows with holes that are dug at least 6 feet between the front and back rows.

Water them well, but if planting in a clay soil which is not elevated or otherwise draining well, monitor them closely to ensure you do not allow their roots to suffocate by sitting in too much water. Also do not let the roots dry out too much. While the trees are getting adjusted, do your best to keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy.

If you want to feed the trees do not use anything more strong than the slow release 4 month lasting, non-burning Osmocote. This fertilizer can even be mixed into the planting backfill soil without burning the roots.

In October apply more osmokote by spreading it under the trees and gently scrape small amounts of the top soil and mix in the fertilizer. Also spread cedar mulch under the tree if your soil seems to dry out too quickly.

If the trees become stressed and their needles growing on the lower branches begin to yellow, do not cut off those branches; not even if they begin to appear as though they have died. You can remove any dry needles you desire, but do not cut off any entire branches. Just like most arborvitae trees, Green Giants will not regrow any branches, which you cut further back than anywhere the needles have been growing out from.

When any branches have appeared to die, take the time to determine if your tree needs less water, more water, or a better watering system. Once you correct the problem and the tree becomes happy again, it will begin to produce green needles again on those once dead appearing branches.

Also do not let dogs urinate on any of your Green Giant trees. These trees will begin to die if a medium to large size dog has consistantly been allowed to use them as a place to urinate on at least for several weeks.

If your trees are sheltered from the cold winter north and northwest wind, or if they do not receive too much winter direct sun, they might stay green all even all winter. Otherwise they could turn a redish or burnt brown color over the winter months. If this happens do not be alarmed, because once Spring temps warm and rains arrive they should green back up nicely.

I have noticed that Green Giants which stay green year round seem to gain more growth height throughout the year. Green Giants which struggle by being planted in poorly draining situations, and or which turn red in the winter seem to grow much more slowly. If these manage to survive they will spread and grow thicker trunks and their top growth will be so slow that the trees stay fairly nicely filled out from top to bottom.

The fast growing trees often begin to send up a growth shoot which appears much more sparce than the bottom parts of the tree. When this happens, if you give the tree a feeding of osmocote the trees will, over a short time, begin to fill out the top growth to be more in balance with the thickness of the lower, older developed part of the tree.

Do not cut off any of the thin looking shoots that burst forth at the top of your trees. Each thin shoot which begins to grow out of the top of your trees is needed for the trees to grow taller.

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clipped on: 04.11.2014 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2014 at 09:56 pm

RE: Best way to propagate varigated red twig dogwood? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sherwood_botsford on 06.02.2009 at 03:45 pm in Plant Propagation Forum

Commercially I've heard a lot of dogwood is done by taking 14" cuttings after they drop their leaves, poking them 10" into the ground, and leaving them over winter.

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clipped on: 04.05.2014 at 06:49 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2014 at 06:49 pm

re: how long after planting out will my Zinnia flower? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: terrene on 03.18.2012 at 11:30 am in Growing from Seed Forum

I dug up the exact dates from last year - this pic was taken August 3rd, and the Zinnias were direct-sown on June 5th, so this is what they looked like after approx. 2 months -

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clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 02:08 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 02:08 pm

RE: when do you sow cosmos seed for a fall bloom? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: louisianagal on 05.29.2012 at 12:43 pm in Louisiana & Mississippi Forum

I just ordered some from Wildseed Farms. The lady told me (for my area zone 7b anyway) that the best to sow now would be cosmos, zinnia, sunflower. I think the website says 60-90 days from when you sow you'll get blooms.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 06:52 pm

RE: Planting cosmos in the fall? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: donnabaskets on 08.17.2009 at 08:36 pm in Annuals Forum

Cosmos is strictly a warm weather plant and is highly sensitive to frost.

Cool weather flowers:
larkspur (plant fall, blooms spring),
shirley and/or california poppies (plant fall, blooms spring),
snapdragons,
pansies,
calendula (like cool weather. might make it through a mild winter for you).
ornamental kale and cabbages
dianthus (technically a biennial. some are perennial)

There are others, but these are the ones most commonly grown.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 06:51 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 06:51 pm

RE: When to plant annual seeds? Fall or Spring? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: foxesearth on 05.18.2009 at 09:50 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Is your zone 24, Sunset zone? If so, does that mean you live in a year-round warm climate?

I can only tell you how annuals are treated in my garden.
Poppies, larkspur, silene, cornflowers, sweet peas and some other half-hardy annuals that bloom in early spring are planted in November.

Summer annuals like zinnias, melampodium, Madagascar periwinkle and tithonia are planted any time after the last chance of frost has passed in the spring.

Biennials are planted by yet another formula that assures that they will grow this year, survive the winter and bloom the next spring.

Seed packet information is intended for some ideal garden in the upper midwest, or New England, or somewhere I don't know. You must plant where you're going to bloom, at a time determined by your climate.

Nell

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 03:25 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 03:26 pm

RE: Best Spring Direct Sow Annuals + Perrenials (6a)? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: party_music50 on 05.03.2012 at 09:07 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

My favorites to direct-sow and allow to self-sow are:
'Astoria' mix asters
Love-in-a-mist
sweet william (dianthus)
bachelor buttons (centaurea)
sweet alyssum
garden balsam (impatiens balsamina)
cosmos
feverfew
and for herbs: dill, cilantro, and sweet cicely.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 03:15 pm

RE: Which Annuals Will You Grow Again And Why? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: tangerine_z6 on 11.02.2007 at 01:58 pm in Annuals Forum

Lantana...this was my first year growing it and it was nearly bulletproof. It bloomed reliably and late into the season, it didn't need deadheading, and smelled great. I had 'Dove Wings' and another deep buttery yellow one in a pot. It was always forgiving if it didn't get enough water but let you know by the drooping leaves.

Snapdragons...still blooming and give so much for so little. I've grown them in full shade to part sun. This year, I bought several 6-packs with scarlet flowers and deep green leaves and planted them in drifts. At planting time I cut back about half of them and they have provided a long season of bloom They got watered regularly only because they were in a section that did, but they didn't sulk if they didn't get any.

Coleus...again, they needed little in the way of care and thrived. The only water they got came from the sky.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:36 pm

RE: Shade and drought tolerant - plus summer color? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: joannd_CNY on 07.13.2003 at 02:17 pm in Plants for Difficult Places Forum

Lamium is very tough, and can be colorful. There is a purple-blooming variety with silver variegated leaves that looks very nice. I too have dry shade and am trying to fill it up. Lamium was the first thing I put in there. I've also heard that heucherellas are very good for this type of situation. (A cross between heucheras and tiarellas.)

Other plants that I've heard recommended:
-epimediums
-bugloss (I think it's also called "Siberian Forget-Me-Nots)
-geranium macorrhizum (not the prettiest geranium I've seen)
-ajuga
-liriope
-lily of the valley is doing well in my dry shade

If you look for variegated versions of these plants, they may provide more splash.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:31 pm

RE: Shade and drought tolerant - plus summer color? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: Flower_Slut on 06.05.2003 at 09:25 am in Plants for Difficult Places Forum

I'd like to add that my earlier suggestions (daylilies, mallow, campanula, aster etc) are all planted amongst tree roots. I just keep adding compost - spring and fall - in large quantities, because this is all the front yard I have. This may not be a possibility for you, but it does work. Oh, and I forgot, though someone else mentioned it - columbine is another excellent choice - I have aquilegia canadensis.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:29 pm

RE: Longest blooming perennial this year? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: oldroser on 08.25.2006 at 02:56 am in Perennials Forum

Geranium Rozanne - it just never stops. I like the way it rambles along, covering other plants that stopped flowering months back and just generally spreading cheer. I understand that there's a new, compact version coming along but don't think I'd be intersted.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:24 pm

RE: Favorite early blooming fragrant or shade tolerant lilies. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: PollyNY on 08.28.2005 at 12:26 pm in Lily Forum

I let my 6 year old grandson pick out a lily he liked in the spring to order, and he picked out White Stargazer. I ordered 50 of them, and we planted together. We were putting them in a bed that is part sun to almost full shade. He went back into the shade more than I would have liked, but I didn't discourage him. Every one bloomed and they were absolutely spectacular, fragrance and beauty. Everyone wanted a bouquet so he cut bouquets for all, so I will probably have to replant next year, but what a gorgeous flower (and what fun we had!). Polly

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:24 pm

RE: Favorite direct sow annuals? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: anchita on 03.26.2007 at 06:07 pm in Annuals Forum

I'm a couple of zones hotter than you, so your mileage may vary. But I had great luck direct seeding dwarf cosmos last year. Thrived in poor soil and full sun, and bloomed pretty quickly. I got the seeds from wildseedfarms.com -- the only place I could find the dwarfs. They have a dwarf sensation mix, among others, that grows to 12-16", and has pink, white or purple flowers. Other dwarfs are yellow, gold and orange. Lots of varieties of cosmos and other wildflowers too. Check out the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: wildseedfarms

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:22 pm

RE: Favorite direct sow annuals? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vera_eastern_wa on 03.26.2007 at 11:56 am in Annuals Forum

I normally just let the ones I could direct sow self-sow themselves. Seems whenever I try to butt in they never come up! They only one I have much luck direct sowing are Nigella just after harvesting seed....I just toss and walk away. I tried a direct sowing of poppies last Thanksgiving...don't see anything yet so just sowed some more! Sunflowes do self-sow...madly, but am gonna give some direct sowing a try; one is 3' and the other's are giants.
This is the list of those self-sowers you might have better luck direct sowing :D
Amaranthus
Cosmos
Nicotiana alata
Linaria maroccana
Viola (sometimes short lived perennials for me)
Salvia hormonium
Salvia coccinea
Rudbeckia amplexicaulis
Clarkia elegans
Cynoglossum amabile (Chinese Forget Me Not)
Sweet Alyssum
Larkspur (these will self sow in late summer/fall and winter over...as well as get more spring germination)
German Chamomile (can keep them going a long time with frequent deadheading/harvesting of flowers for tea)
Moss Rose
Snapdragon (some can be perennial zone 6 and warmer)

As far as Profussion Zinnia, I recieved some harvested Pink Profussion in trade. The ones I wintersowed all came true! We see what happens from the seed I harvested this year :D

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:21 pm

RE: Favorite direct sow annuals? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mmegaera on 03.24.2007 at 06:18 pm in Annuals Forum

Love in a mist (nigella), alyssum, bachelor's buttons (cornflowers), nasturtiums, morning glories, larkspur, virginian stock.

Most of these are cool-season annuals, though, and won't keep going through a hot summer, although the morning glories will be happy to. I did some lovely moonflowers via direct-sowed seed once in a hot climate, though. Wow, they smelled good. But they only bloom at night.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:19 pm

RE: shade bed (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: susanlynne48 on 04.21.2005 at 09:05 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

My share is part shade and iris will grow in part shade. My new ones are just about to open, so will keep you posted on them. I also grow Solomon's Seal, holly fern, moneywort, bear's breeches, hostas, columbine 'Nora Barlow' (double bloom), columbine 'Texas Star', campanulas, hardy begonia, azalea, hydrangeas, arisaemas, goat's beard, variegated vinca, lilies (oriental, asiatic, orienpets), Japanese anemones, itea (Virginia Sweetspire), alocasia, colocasia, hardy glads, heucheras, catnip, sages, winter savory, clematis, kiwi vine, porcelain vine, ajuga, Japanese Maple, mints, white butterfly ginger, and can't think of anything else right now.

Hope to see everyone at the plant sale.

Susan

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:15 pm

RE: shade bed (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: enchantedplace on 04.20.2005 at 05:52 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

We have also enlarged a shade bed under black walnut and oak trees. Included in the bed are tall phlox, sweet rocket, day lilies, spiderwort, ajuga, violets, iris , daffodils. It is mainly an 'overflow ' area for plants that needed division. Looks like it's doing OK so far. Under a pin oak in our door yard we have mertensia, solomon's seal, lily of the valley, bloodroot, coral bells, wood betony, bloodroot, wild ginger, sedums, day lilies, blue star, spiderwort, astilbe; shrubs include box, blue angel holly, weeping yaupon holly. vines include 5 leaf akebia and red honeysuckle. EP

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:15 pm

RE: Tall, narrow perennials (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nancyd on 10.17.2006 at 04:31 pm in Perennials Forum

I'm glad you're aware that you're going to have to keep on top of dividing. Anything 4 feet or taller usually means a fairly large plant. As for your zone, you'll have to do your homework. I think my suggestions will work, but you should always double check before you purchase anything. Here are my suggestions:

Lilies and Daylilies - That would have been my first suggestion. Lilies are great. Plant varieties that bloom at different times and you've got flowers virtually all summer.

Dahlias - Really gorgeous plant, but yes, the tall ones can get very large. Maybe choose some shorter varieties. They come in a wide range of colors and shapes. Up here we have to dig up the tubers in fall - do you get hard frosts in MO? If you're not sure, check the Dahlia Forum to see if you could keep yours in the ground.

Delphiniums - I'd stay away from these. They don't like that much sun or heat. They're a cooler weather plant. I can barely get them to grow up here.

"Becky" Daisies - I would suggest this instead. They are tall, have a long bloom period. They do tend to multiply quickly, but are easily divided. Becky performs better than any daisy I've had. Late spring to late summer.

Helianthus "Lemon Queen" - This is a fast growing tall plant with sunflower type blossoms that blooms in later summer. It's clump forming, but foliage is not overly bushy. Can get large quickly though.

Crocosmia - Great for mid-late summer. They are usually red or orange (but I've seen some yellow). Mine don't reach 4 feet, but well worth it for the hummingbirds they attract. They have spiky iris looking leaves which leads me to my next suggestion...

Iris - You can get very tall varieties in many colors. You'll need something for spring.

Artemesia lactiflora - Loves sun and gets about 4-1/2 feet tall. Looks like a really tall astilbe with the white flower heads. Foliage is lacy and not overwhelming. Late summer bloomer.

Agastache - I like the different varieties of agastache which I think would do well for you (another hummer magnet). Most are annuals for me. Summer bloomer.

Garden phlox - Nice punch of color, many varieties."David" is a taller white variety. They love sun. Stock might also work. I like the look of a big puffy flower. Early to late summer bloomer.

Japanese anemones - Great fall plant. The foliage is heavier at the bottom, but the flower stalks are tall and skinny. Honorine Jorbert is a gorgeous white bloomer.

Have you thought of any grasses? Karl Foerster is well behaved and gets about 4-1/2 feet tall. Mine has not gotten much wider over the years.

Annuals - Don't overlook annuals. I always intersperse my perennial beds with zinnias, sunflowers and cosmos. I love cut flowers and since I don't have the space for a cutting garden, it not only keeps the garden in constant bloom, but it's nice to have flower arrangements in the house.

Good luck!

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:14 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:14 pm

RE: spring blooming bulb foliage: inconspicuous or quick bying on (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vetivert8 on 07.06.2013 at 01:06 am in Bulbs Forum

I'd look at Crocus and Chionodoxa, plus Anemone coronaria, if you have somewhere to raise them over winter.

Some of the Galanthus are nice and the leaves aren't hugely conspicuous as they fade away. (A touch of hope in the middle of winter. My earlies are out just now.)

If you have a semi shady spot you might also consider Anemone blanda which spreads by seeding, not bulb increase, and Anemone nemorosa.

Some of the miniature daffodils, such as Hawera and Snipe, can fill a useful place and decently die down as the perennials are coming into leaf or flower.

Iris reticulata has a long flowering season for me and although the leaves are long, they're not problematic.

Might not fit in your zone - beware Narcissus Earlicheer and the paperwhites: first into leaf and last to go.

Not quite a bulb - yet very useful for a sun-baked and poor soil area - Iris unguicularis. Only trouble is - the slugs are also out and looking for feasts in the middle of winter. But the flowers are delightfully scented and a lovely blue-purple.

If they're hardy for you - Cyclamen coum planted in drifts under maples or fruit trees - deciduous trees can be delightful in autumn and into early winter.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 12:09 pm

RE: too late to sow flowering seeds for summer or fall blooms (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cynthianovak on 05.10.2013 at 04:54 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

zinnias grow faster when it is hotter and often bloom in 6 weeks or less in summer. Water in the morning after sunrise to avoid fungus. Cleome will bloom too as will cosmos....I love the orange variety.

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clipped on: 10.13.2013 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 10.13.2013 at 11:59 am